How to/ Sewing Tutorial Archives - Patterns for Pirates

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

March 18, 2019

And just like that we made it to the last sewing day. Today we are putting the finishing touches on out Brunch Blouses.

If you have sewn the tank option, you will be finishing the arm opening with bias binding. Here is a refresher blog on woven bias binding if you didn’t get to check it out yesterday.
If you opted for the cap sleeve style, I highly encourage you to fold your sleeve hem 1/4″ press, fold again 1/4″ and press and only then stitch. This will yield a very polished sleeve look.
I have selected the short sleeve option with a cuff and a snap tab. This is a great way to add accent colors and even use some decorative buttons.

The last sew along video is posted below. Take a look and once you are done sewing post your final picture in the DAY 7 COMMENTS of the BB/BBB sal album in the group…you know the drill 🙂 The team will pick out two winners on Wednesday so you have an extra day to catch up on your project.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

March 17, 2019

Two more sewing days let in this SAL. Can you believe it? Today we will be focusing on the neckband. The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch blouse neckline is finished with bias binding. The pattern calls for single fold bias tape.

I am a huge supporter of store bought bias tape because it gives me more time to focus on other projects, plus the finishing tape is not visible from the outside of the BB shirt/dress. If you have a local Joann or Walmart, look through their notions walls, you will see single and double fold bias tape in a variety of colors.

However, if you are keen on matching the bias binding with the fabric you can certainly create your own. In this P4P University blog, Nicole and Judy teach you how to diy bias tape. Take a look over it and get to cutting.

Tip: The neckline gives you plenty of opportunity to add a personal touch to your blouses. Think, double fold bias tape or placing the single fold on the outside for a pop of color…think, decorative stitches …ohh the possibilities!

Go ahead and read the tutorial and watch day 6 video below. Once you finish sewing the bias binding one, snap a picture and add it to the comments of Day 6 photo of the BB/BBB sew along album.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

March 16, 2019

The 5th day of our sew along is here. Today we sew the shoulder and the side seam, probably the easiest day of the sew along 😉 Remember to use your sewing machine for this steps and just finish the raw edge with the serger or a zig zag stitch.

TIP: If you’re doing a hemmed sleeve now would be a good time to press your memory hem. This will make it so much easier to hem later on.

The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse patterns follow a 1/2″ seam allowance so be sure to not deviate from it when you sew the shoulder seams and side seams.

Watch the day 5 video below and be sure to post a picture of today’s progress in the day 5 photo comments of the BB / BBB sew along album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Group.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

March 14, 2019

Good morning, pirates! Today we will be focusing on the pocket(s), waist ties and back seam. The pocket and waist ties and optional so if you are skipping them, you would only sew the back seam. Easy peasy!

You can add two pockets or just one, both would look just as cute. I personally like one contrasting pocket on the left side but I also like the look of two pockets from the same fabric.

The Brunch Blouse is a relaxed fit throughout the waist so the ties will help “cinch” you in, if you are going for an hour glass look. I absolutely love the shape of the ties and that you can tie them in the front or the back.

When you sew the back seam, remember to follow the 1/2 inch seam allowance and to stitch with your sewing machine. I know temptation to use just your serger is big but remember that a serger stitch is not as resilient to wear as a sewing machine straight stitch. Use your serger, but to finish the raw edges!

Take a look over today’s video and once you finish sewing post a picture of your progress in the comments of the Day 4 photo of the BB/BBB sew along album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

March 13, 2019

Welcome to day 3 of our Brunch and Bitty Brunch sew along. Today we will be focusing on the darts (if you are sewing the women top or dress) and the placket.

Make sure that you transfer the dart marking from the pattern to the fabric’s wrong side. I love using water soluble marking pen because I know the lines with disappear once I stem it. Another tip I have for you when sewing darts is to press the dart before AND after you sew. Ironing it will help keep the fabric in place while stitching.

Second part of the day is dedicated to the henley style placket. This is a step that may scare first time henley makers but trust me when I say it, if you go slow and you press frequently, you will see that it is not as a daunting task as you thought. Before you get started, take a look over our Placket 101 blog. The videos I have in the P4P University blog are actually of the Brunch Blouse placket so you can certainly refer to it.

Below is a link to the Day 3 sew along video which includes both the dart and placket construction. Once you complete today’s steps, be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of the Brunch/Bitty Brunch sew along album.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Loggers – easy hacks

March 12, 2019

The new P4P Loggers (available in women and youth) are here! Needless to say the P4P team and blog contributors were very excited to show you these easy hacks that you can do to the Loggers in order to have even more options. Let’s get started!

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Peg Waistband

First comes the Pegs. Then comes the Logger… Up next, a Peg and Logger mash made in Heaven! Ever since the release of the Peg Leg add-on pack, I have been obsessed with the contoured waistband (What? You haven’t tried it yet? Grab a copy of it for FREE right here). Luckily, the Logger Pattern is another perfect way to show off and use the contoured waistband.

To create this look, you will need both the Logger and the contoured waistband pieces. One of the advantages to the Loggers is that you can use fabrics with just a small amount of vertical stretch. However, for the Pegs, 50% stretch is needed in both directions. So when choosing your fabric for the contoured waistband, it is KEY to make sure that it meets these requirements or else it won’t fit!

Begin by cutting out the necessary pieces. For the waist on your Logger, cut on the lower rise. As you can see in the picture below, I have have my Logger shorts with bands and then my pieces needed for the contoured waistband.

Next, assemble all pieces as written in the tutorials, including the waistband. Quarter both your Loggers and waistband. Slip your waistband over the Loggers, matching right sides together.

Attach your waistband, being sure to stretch the waistband only and NOT the Loggers. All finished! You have now created one of the most comfortable pair of pants with the most comfortable waistband that you will ever own! ~Erinn

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Capri Loggers

The Loggers patterns include 2 length, ankle and shorts. So let’s add a third. I personally love capri length leggings and joggers when biking so I knew I needed capri loggers too. Such an easy hack!

All you have to do is remove some length on both leg pieces. For the adult loggers I recommend removing about 7″ but you can go a little less or a little more. If you are not able to measure them you can use the Peg Legs capri length as a guide, just remember that the Pegs are hemmed while the Loggers have cuffs so make sure you accommodate for that.

Once you cut your fabric continue sewing them as per the tutorial. The only change left to do is in the cuffs width. Measure the leg opening and multiply that by 0.90 and add 1″ for the seam allowance. Keep the height of the cuffs pattern as is.

All you have left to do is add the cuffs to the legs following the same instructions in the tutorial. As always, press, press, press!

Shhh! Want to know a little secret? For my pair of capri loggers I actually used the exact cuffs from the pattern. Since my loggers are 100% cotton spandex with great stretch and recovery I could do that. Something to keep in mind, but do not do this if you are using French Terry or other knit with not so great recovery.

That’s it! Super easy, capri loggers to add to your lounging or workout gear.

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Swim Bottoms

Come back to the blog tomorrow to read how Nicole made swim shorts from the Youth Loggers! 🙂

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Grow With Me Loggers

One of the hardest things about sewing for our kiddos is how fast they outgrow items we spend hours making. Well, here is a quick and easy way to make your little one’s Loggers last a bit longer.

You’ll start off by choosing the next size up for your pants. Now print and cut out your pattern pieces making sure to use the yoga style waistband. I went with a low rise for this set but you can choose high rise as well.

Now go ahead and grab your ankle cuff piece because we are going to be doubling the height of that. I did this by first tracing it on to a blank piece of paper. Then you’ll place it alongside your line edge shown in red so it’s doubled in size but still has the same fold line. Tape it down and then cut out the entire piece as one shown by the green line.

Now cut all your fabric pieces out just as directed!

From here you’ll sew up exactly how it’s said to in the tutorial. When it comes to wearing you simply roll the bands to best fit your child. Here is an example of it fully rolled and extended. As you can see my little needs it fully rolled but now she’ll be able to wear them much longer!

Don’t forget to share your creations in our facebook group! We can’t wait to see all your makes!

Michelle

Now that you purchased your Loggers and reviewed all of our easy hacks, time to start sewing. Make yourself or a loved one a pair and don’t forget to show it off in the Patterns for Pirates Sewing Group on Facebook.

The P4P blog team

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

March 12, 2019

Welcome to day 2 of our Brunch and Bitty Brunch sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions and accessories. You should have your pattern pieces ready from yesterday.

But first let’s talk a little about the right fabric for this pattern. As you can see in the video below I am using a gorgeous woven from Backstitch Fabrics for my Brunch Blouse. This woven is custom printed and the perfect weight. For the women’s blouse I absolutely love rayon fabric and chiffons. I highly encourage you to avoid quilter cottons because they do not have the necessary drape to make the top or dress flattering….and we all want that, am I right? You can get away with good quality quilter cotton for the Bitty Brunch though.

Backstitch SoFlo is this sew along’s sponsor too, so one of you will be getting a $50 Gift Card to the shop shop so you can treat your to some gorgeous custom printed woven fabric. Our second winner will receive a $25 gift card to Backstitch SoFlo too.

If you picked the henley style option you will also need buttons or snaps. My recommendation for buttons or snaps is smaller size ones. The placket finished width is aprox 1/2 inch so your buttons must be smaller than this.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the Brunch Blouse/Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

March 11, 2019

Welcome to the Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse

Sew Along!

Day One is reserved to purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Brunch Blouse here, if you’re sewing for your little girl, the Bitty Brunch Blouse can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily blog posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

Now that you purchased the pattern(s), print the size needed. In order to do that it is very important that you take your most accurate measurements. The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse are drafted for woven fabric (no stretch) so if you need to grade for multiple sizes, please do not skip this step.

You will need your waist, hips and chest measurements in order to choose the correct blouse size. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the Brunch/Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Grandpa Cardi/Cpt Mack’s Cardigan SAL – day 6 (add neckband/shawl and optional buttons)

January 19, 2019

Ahoy, pirates!! We made it to the last steps of this sew along. What a fantastic week! All we have left to do now is add the neckband or the shawl and the optional buttons/snaps. I am adding the shawl option to my cardigan so I will have 4 pieces vs only two for the neckband option.

If you plan on adding buttons or snaps I highly recommend interfacing the front with light weight knit interfacing. In a pinch ultra light weight woven one will work too. It’s very important that you cut the neckband or shawl according to the grainline and stretch direction. Take a look over the video below to see how I attached the shawl neckband.

I decided to add buttons to my cardigan’s front to I also did a quick video of those steps. Grab your seam ripper, marking pens and let’s get started on this last finishing touch. Our P4P University – buttons/buttonholes blog post covers a lot of useful tips to conquer this somewhat scary task.

We have some fun hacks to the Grandpa cardi and Cpt Mack’s on the blog as part of the #P4Pcardiweek we had a couple of years ago. One of these hacks shows you how to add ribbon tie closures to the cardigan instead of buttons. Read all about it here.

All done!! Great work, everyone! Remember to add a picture of your completed cardigan in the day 6 comments of the Grandpa Cardi/Cpt. Mack’s Cardigan SAL photo album in the SAL group. Tomorrow is catch up day and on Monday evening we will announce the winners here on the blog.

G randpa Cardi | Cpt Mack’s Cardigan Sew along – Day 1 (Print & cut pattern)

Grandpa Cardi | Cpt Mack’s Cardigan Sew along – Day 2 (choose and cut fabric)

Grandpa Cardi | Cpt Mack’s Cardigan Sew along – Day 3 (pockets and elbow patches)

Grandpa Cardi | Cpt Mack’s Cardigan Sew along – Day 4 (shoulder seams and add sleeves)

Grandpa Cardi | Cpt Mack’s Cardigan Sew along – Day 5 (finish sleeves and bottom edge)

Grandpa Cardi | Cpt Mack’s Cardigan Sew along – Day 6 (collar/shawl and buttons)

Grandpa Cardi | Cpt Mack’s Cardigan Sew along – Day 7 (winners announcements)

Grandpa Cardi/Cpt Mack’s Cardigan SAL – day 5 (finish sleeves and bottom edge)

January 18, 2019

FriYAY! One more sewing day left and we’ll be all done. Today we focus on finishing the sleeves and the bottom hem. Both the women and youth cardigans include options for a banded or hemmed bottom edge finish as well as cuffs or hemmed sleeves. My cardigan is a tunic length with hemmed sleeves.

If you are sewing a banded cardigan your waistband lengthwise, wrong sides together before you attach it, press and steam it after too!

If you went for the hemmed sleeves all you have to do is hem them 1/2″ allowance using either a zig zag stitch, a triple stretch stitch or your coverstitch. Remember that memory hem we did a few days ago? It makes hemming so easy now.

If you chose the sleeves cuffs take a look over our Knit Cuffs 101 blog post and once again, don’t forget to press. In this video I am hemming both the sleeves and the bottom edge. Once you finish, post your progress in the day 5 picture comments of the Cardigan Sew Along album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.