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P4P University :: Peg Leg 101

March 21, 2016

peg leg 101

Have you heard about P4P’s Peg Legs?  And no, we are not talking about those wooden pirate legs!  P4P released the Peg Legs some months back in celebration of reaching 5k members in the P4P Facebook Group. (crazy right!?!? since we just celebrated reaching 15k members last month!)  If you don’t have them, you can grab them HERE and don’t forget to join the Facebook Group for a special promo code (check the pinned post for details)! In the last few months, we’ve seen the good, the bad, the fails and the “HAAALLPP” questions posted frequently.  So, just like any introductory 101 college course, we are going to give you all the basics with this crash course to make a successful pair of Peg Legs!

First and foremost, if you are new to P4P, check out our First Time User Tips.  Pattern Assembly, a few fabric shops, general cutting instructions, and sewing machine stitches are all discussed there.  So now that you’re familiarized with P4P, here we go!

  • What are Peg Legs?  A classic mid-rise, tight fit leggings pattern for 4 way stretch knit fabrics.  Options include 4 lengths: shorties, bike, capri and ankle with a no elastic waistband.
  • Sizes Included: XXS – Plus 3x
  • Fabric Recommendations: 4 way stretch knit with at least 50% stretch (vertically and horizontally).  Typically 5% spandex or more will work.
    • Cotton Lycra/spandex (note- Lycra=spandex). Medium weight is usually 10oz or more
    • Rayon spandex.  This is typically thinner so may not be opaque.  One of our tunic tops to cover your booty are a MUST 😉
    • Nylon spandex / Supplex – great for performance wear. This usually has a higher content of spandex and will feel tighter, much like compression wear. Some prefer to size up 1 for a more comfortable fit.
    • Polyester spandex – brushed polyester spandex is what many of the boutique leggings are made from however, it is a slightly harder to find the fabric in retail stores. Be sure to check the vertical stretch percentage as some may be less than the 50% require stretch.
    • Stretch Fleece – Fabrics such as Polartec Powerstretch are a 4 way stretch fleece.  Regular fleece, like blizzard, anti-pill and cuddle fleece found in retail stores are NOT recommended.

Fabric is extremely important to get an accurate fit.   Here is an example of the same size medium, capri length made from a 2 way stretch ponte de roma and a 4 way stretch rayon spandex.  You can see the overall fit of the 2 way stretch is much shorter in length and has a lower rise.  I am able to put on the 2 way stretch pair but because there is no vertical stretch, they do not stretch and bend with movement and tend to slip down over time.  While they are a super cute fabric, sadly, they sit in my drawer as they are not comfortable to wear.

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STRETCH PERCENTAGES

So, you ask, how do I know if my fabric is 4 way 50% stretch knit?  A 4″ piece will stretch to a minimum of 6″ both vertically and horizontally.  Below is a stretch percentage guide.  Cut a scrap piece of your fabric 4″ x 4″.  Fold in half so it is now 2″ x 4″ and place at the end of the stretch guide.  Hold fabric at one end (where indicated) and grab the opposite end and stretch.  If you can stretch the fabric to 5.2″, your fabric has 30% stretch, 5.7 is 40% and so on.  Unfold and refold the opposite direction and test again.  To determine horizontal stretch, your grainline will run vertically with the stretch perpendicular and horizontal.   The vertical stretch is with the grainline.  For a printable copy, head on over to our Facebook Group and download a copy from the files section.  🙂  Need more help? Megan from Made from Mermaids has a great blog post with video about stretching fabrics.  You can check it out HERE.

knit fabric stretch guide P4P

PICKING YOUR SIZE

Now that you have checked your fabric, how do you pick your size?  If you are unsure on how to measure your body, check out our “How to Measure Yourself” post.  The peg legs use the high hip (where your hip bones are) and the hip (across the fullest part of  your booty) measurements to determine size.  If you are in different sizes for your high hip and hip, you can grade between the two or use one size for the waistband and the other for your “legs”.  This works best for those that have a high hip 1 size smaller than their hip.  If your high hip is larger than your hip, it would be best to grade your sizes.

 

ADJUSTING THE RISE AND LENGTH

The Peg Legs are a mid rise legging, meant to hit under your belly button.  For those wanting a higher rise or more tummy coverage, you can either add a taller waistband than the pattern calls for or increase the rise of the legs and use the existing waistband measurements.

  • Taller waistband: increase height of waistband to 10″ instead of 7″
  • Fold Over Yoga Band: double the height of waistband to 14″

To increase the rise of the legs: 1) follow the curve of the rise to a larger size on the pattern and blend. OR 2) Slash and Spread – Cut the pattern horizontally through the rise, add the desired amount and smooth out the curves.

 P4P patterns peg leg rise adjustment

Our patterns are drafted for a curvy 5’5″ frame.  Using the same principle as found in our Petite & Tall Fitting Adjustment post, you will adjust your length of the legs by 1/2″ for every 1″ over or under 5’5″.  The Peg Legs’ have a 28″ inseam for ankle length.  If your inseam is shorter or longer, you will adjust to your desired length in the same manner.

  • Determine the amount you need to adjust your length by.  Using the principle above – A 5’10” woman would need an additional 2.5″ (5’10” – 5’5″ = 5″ ~ 5″ x .5″ = 2.5″ ).  A 5″1″ woman would need  2″ subtracted (5’1″ – 5’5″ = 4″ ~ 4″ x .5″ = 2″).  It is best to split the total length that needs to be added or subtracted throughout the entire leg.  Slash and spread the pattern in equal parts and blend the lines. The most common areas to adjust are the shorties, bike, and capri lengths as there are cut lines already indicated on the pattern.  You may also need to adjust the rise, higher or lower depending on your desired height.

 P4P patterns peg leg length adjustment

CUTTING YOUR FABRIC

You will need the following: 2 legs (mirror images) and 1 waistband.  Note: the greatest stretch should be horizontal and what goes around the body.  To create mirror images you can cut your fabric two ways:

  • Cut 1 pattern piece with pattern writing face up.  Flip your pattern piece over and cut again.

P4P patterns peg legs mirror images

  • Cut your pattern piece with fabric on the fold to create mirror images with 1 cut.

P4P patterns peg legs mirror images on fabric

 

Once you’ve assembled your pattern, pre-washed your fabric and cut your pattern pieces you are ready to sew up a pair!  Because this is a great beginning knit project, we have included a quick video tutorial! Enjoy!

 

Sewn up a pair of Peg Legs?  We would love to see what you are all creating. Join the Facebook Group and share away.

 

Filed Under: Fitting, How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos 44 Comments

Exposed Seams Boutique Look Hack

March 8, 2016

I’ve seen the boutique french terry raglan with exposed seams countless times in the group, pinterest, and other sewing boards over the past couple years! I made one about a year ago, but never wrote up a blog about how to get the look.  We’re still asked for it all the time, so I did another one while we’re updating the Women’s Raglan to include the extended plus sizes and new features our newest P4P patterns have, like layers. It’s looser fit is perfect for french terry, which is what the boutique ones are always made of and gives the same “slouchy” looser fit.header

Overall, it is a really basic “hack”.  But, I’m going to have to beg forgiveness for the photos! Apparently I did not check my photos as I was taking them and they are not great quality!  Hopefully you can enjoy my Peter Pan-esque comedic shadow in them!

You will cut out your pieces exactly the same as a normal raglan for the main shirt.  If you want to add the cowl with unfinished bottom edge you will cut 2 like the pattern states, but NOT on the fold.  You could still cut on the fold to keep the fullness and just not sew in the bottom edge as well.  Depending on how thick your fabric is and how big you want your cowl.  I easily get claustrophobic with things around my neck, so one layer not on the fold was an easy decision for me ;).

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When assembling the sleeves to the bodice front and back you will put WRONG sides together and stitch with your sewing machine using your favorite stretch stitch.

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Trim the notches and smooth out your seam allowance.

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Press seams out.  You could top-stitch here if you preferred, but I left it open and free 😉 I thought it went with the look better.

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Sew down side seams with right sides together, like you would normally.

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I added the inseam pocket option from the Add on Pack as well (I can’t seem to make a tunic length without this option anymore!).  I went with hemming the front to the right side to show the wrong side there as well.

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For my hems I left them all raw and allowed them to roll up towards the front to show the wrong sides there too.

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I attached the cowl the same way as the tutorial states, but only attaching one raw edge of the cowl to the neckline instead of two.

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Done! Now you have a lovely boutique look that was such an easy sew and hack!

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Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized 1 Comment

FREE Youth Bowtie Pattern!

February 22, 2016

Hey Pirates!  We’ve got a special treat for you today, coming at you via the Boys Can Wear Pink: Season 2 blog tour (hosted by Handmade Boy).  The series focuses on breaking down gender barriers while at the same time showcasing some incredibly talented sewists, and the special boys in their lives.  Not only is Patterns for Pirates one of the sponsors of this tour, but we’ve also decided to participate in other ways as well.

P4P girl Katy is participating as a blogger in the series for the second year in a row, with all Patterns for Pirates gear for her kiddo.  Go check out the Lumberjack Shirt and Cpt. Comfort Jeans that she made for Louis on her blog HERE.  And then come right back, because Katy also decided to write up a pattern for the bowtie she designed and share it with you all.  FOR FREE!

BCWP Bowtie Pattern Cover

Supplies needed:
— Bowtie pattern (find the free pattern download HERE)
— fusible interfacing
— 1/4 yard fabric
— coordinating thread
— small button

**A note about the neckstrap piece.  It’s best to measure the neck of whoever you’re making the bowtie for first.  The piece included in the pattern is for my 5-year old son, who has a 12″ neck.  To make your piece longer or shorter, cut a rectangle that is 2 inches wide x (neck measurement + 3) inches long.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-001

Step 1: Cut out all of your pieces.  Interfacing is optional but HIGHLY recommended.  It’ll help keep that bow nice and crisp.

Step 2: Iron on interfacing to one bowtie piece and the neckstrap.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-002

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the bowtie pieces along the outer edges (using 1/4″ seam allowance).  Be sure to leave an opening, around an inch on one of the curved sides.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-003 copy

Step 4: Turn bowtie piece right side out, through the opening.  Clip corners and carefully snip edges along the curves before turning to allow for sharper corners and smoother curves.  Press.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-004

Step 5: Topstitch around entire bowtie piece.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-005 copy

Step 6: Fold bowtie piece in half, short sides together.  Stitch along the “center back” line, marked according to the pattern piece.  Make sure to backstitch at both ends.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-006 copy

Step 7: Open up the bowtie piece and flatten it down to realign the front center seam.  Stitch along line.  Set aside bow.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-007 BCWP Bowtie Pattern-008 copy

Step 8: Locate the center piece.  Fold in half, right sides together, along the long edge.  Sew long edge with 1/4″ seam allowance.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-009

Step 9: Turn center piece, right side out.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-011

Step 10: Arrange your new center tube so that the seam is running along the middle of one of the sides.  Press.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-012

Step 11:  Find your bow.  With the top facing you, place the center piece in the middle of the bow.  Make sure the seam of the center piece is facing up toward you.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-013

Step 12: Fold the center piece in half, around the bow.  Stitch a line, using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-014 copy

Step 13: Trim excess fabric.

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Step 14: Turn center tube, so that the new seam you just created is tucked inside and no longer exposed.  Adjust your center piece

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-017 BCWP Bowtie Pattern-018BCWP Bowtie Pattern-019

Step 15: Take your neckstrap piece and on each of the short ends, fold and press in 1/4″, wrong sides together.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-021

Step 16: With right sides together, fold neckstrap piece along the long edge and stitch.

Step 17: Turn tube right sides out.  Arrange your neckstrap tube so that the seam is running right down the middle of your tube.  Press.  Top stitch along all four edges.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-023 copy

Step 18: Create a buttonhole on one end, and sew the button onto the other.  (An easy alternative to buttons is velcro!)

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-024

Step 19: Thread the neckstrap through the backside of bow.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-025

Step 20: Sit back and admire your newest make!  There’s about to be one dapper dude (or dudette) in your ranks.

BCWP Bowtie Pattern-026 BCWP Bowtie Pattern-027 BCWP Bowtie Pattern-030

Don’t forget to share with us your latest creation!  Come hang out with us in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group, we’d love to see what you’ve been working on.

Also make sure to check out the rest of the AMAZING talent involved in the Boys Can Wear Pink: Season 2 Blog Tour.  You won’t regret it.

February 22 Wild & Wanderful  Handcrafted by Red Made by Jack’s Mum
February 23 Friends Stitched Together Phatquarters Blog   Mae and K Free Notion
February 24   Doodle Number 5 Pen Seb Rox Pattern Revolution
February 25 Beri Bee Designs The Kisses Co Rebel and Malice
February 26 Paisley Roots Max-California The Wholesome Mama
February 27  Squishy Face Collection Bunch o Berries Adventures with Bubba and Bug
HattieLu Handmade

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Filed Under: Blog Tours, Free Pattern, How to/ Sewing Tutorial 4 Comments

Button Cuff Hack!

January 26, 2016

button-cuff-hack-final

I look to online boutiques and Pinterest for sewing inspirations all the time.  By adding small details to an existing pattern, P4P of course ;), you can transform your favorite finds into your very own me-made version.  During the entire month of January we are running a #PINspiredPIRATES contest. I took on the challenge and added a super cute button cuff to the Slim Fit Raglan.  You can use any of the knit shirt patterns as a base, but chose the Slim Fit Raglan since it was the best to recreate the overall look. (original inspiration pic credit: Three Birds Nest.)

Supplies: 4-6 buttons; knit scraps, small hair ties, fold over elastic, ribbon (whatever you’d like to use for the loops)

button-cuff-hack-cuffsMost of the cuffs included in the patterns are a little shorter than I wanted, so I added 1″ to the length.  Since both ends of the button cuff are finished, I added to the width to account for the seam allowance. Refer to your cut chart in the pattern for measurements, then add 1″ to each. Cut 2.

 

 

 

 

button-cuff-button-tabs

Cut 6 button loops.  You can choose what you would like to use for your loops.  I went the easy route and cut 1/2″ strips of knit that was the same fabric as my cuffs.  Since knit does not unravel, you can leave the edges raw. I pulled them taught so that it would roll in on itself.  I cut them 2.5″ long but after completion they ended up a little too long for the smaller size button I used.  I wrapped them twice around to keep the cuff closed. I would use 1.75″-2″ depending on your button size.

button-cuff-tabs

 

Fold cuffs right sides together.

Fold loops in half lengthwise and place them equal distance apart between your cuff layers. Be sure to leave at least 1/2″ from raw edge for your seam allowance when attaching your cuff.  I just kind of eyeballed their placement to be sure they were even.

 

 

 

button-cuff-stitched

Stitch Short ends.  Be sure to catch the raw edges of your loops.

Turn Right side out.

 

 

 

 

 

button-cuff-hack-with-buttons

 

Add buttons.  Be sure to attach buttons at opposite ends to create mirror images, otherwise, you will end up with 2 cuffs with tabs in the same direction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

button-cuff-tacked

Button the cuffs.  Again, be sure to button them so you have mirror images.

Baste open edges together.  I used a zigzag stitch to tack them together.  Do not stitch through all layers or you will sew your cuff shut.  You are only stitching through 2 layers of fabric.

 

 

 

 

button-cuff-sleeve 

Insert cuff inside sleeve with right sides together. Buttons should be lined up to the folded side of sleeve with button loops pointing to the back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

button-cuff-sew

 

Stitch with 1/2″ seam allowance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VOILA!

p4p-button-cuff-hack-finished

Followed this hack?  Or came up with something of your own?  We would love to see it!  Share your latest make in the Patterns for Pirates facebook group, on Instagram (@patternsforpirates) and don’t forget to submit your PINspiredPIRATES entries by January 31st with tag: #PINspiredPIRATES

Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Pattern Hacks Leave a Comment

Women’s Raglan Nursing Mod

January 19, 2016

womens raglan nursing mod

If you’re a nursing mom, you know that there are not many fashionable and functional tops out there for nursing that are reasonably priced.  After having my little one last year, I quickly realized I wanted  a nursing hoodie.  I usually just wore a camisole and did the pull up method, but with a hoodie or sweater, that’s not quite as easy.   I searched a few sites for inspiration and came up with a mod that works great for the looser relaxed cut tops.  We just so happen to be testing the raglan add on pack at the time, so I used the Women’s Raglan as my base.  This mod works best with thicker, more stable knits like French Terry, jegging (what I used in the tutorial), fleeced back knit, cotton Lycra, Ponte de Roma and so on.  If using a knit with poor recovery, you will want to invest in some clear elastic.

First, you will cut two (2) Front pattern pieces on the FOLD.  One will be your under layer and only needs to be about half the length.  Measure from armpit to a couple inches below your bust.  My example is approximately 9″ from armpit to bottom edge.

UNDER LAYER: Cut a “V” from about  2″ from bottom edge to top.  You can also keep fabric on the fold and cut a diagonal line to create the “V”.  Since knit does not unravel, you can choose to either leave the V and bottom edge raw, or finish the edges with your preferred  method.  You can also add a band at the bottom edge.  I would recommend measuring the width and subtracting a couple of inches.  This will help tighten the under layer and keep it under your bust.  raglan nursing mod under layer

TOP LAYER: Cut a semi-circle from each side. (tip: cutting the curves while the fabric is still on the fold will keep them equal)  My curves start at approximately 4″ from neckline to 7″ from armpit however,  you can adjust the curve to your liking based on your bust size and how deep you would like them.

Fold under curve 1/2″ to the wrong side and finish using a stretch stitch, zig zag or cover stitch.  If your knit is less stable with poor recovery, add clear elastic in the hem for extra stability. raglan nursing top layer

Place top layer wrong side to right side of the under layer.  (my picture shows opposite, as I later decided to use the wrong side of the fabric as the right side of my finished garment.) Baste neckline and side seams.

raglan nursing mod both layers

This is now your new front piece.  Continue construction of the raglan as shown in the tutorial.  Finished product = An awesome nursing friendly hoodie or sweater!  Once you’re done nursing you can go back and topstitch the curves closed and have an added design detail that no one would ever know it was for nursing.

 

Followed this nursing hack?  Or came up with something of your own?  We would love to see it!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group!

Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Nursing, Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized 3 Comments

How to use the new Layers feature

January 9, 2016

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Patterns for Pirates has added a brand new feature to their newest upcoming patterns! The Layers Feature! This means you can choose to print one size, a couple, or all of them if you’d like.  They will still be the “No Trim” style.

Here is a few screenshots to help you use the new feature.

As always, you will need to open and print your PDF from Adobe PDF Reader (a free download if you don’t have it yet).

This is what your screen should look like viewing the PDF pattern pieces:

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (3)

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (1)

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (2)

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (4)

Now you can print just the sizes you need and save some ink and time tracing off your size! 🙂

As requested, here is our on-going list of patterns that have the layers feature (These are also the patterns that include the A0 Copy Shop File Size):

Freebies:

  • Pirate Pencil Skirt
  • Peg Legs
  • Peg Legs- Add Ons
  • Peg Legs- Maternity Add On
  • Tulip Tee
  • Tiny Tulip- Youth
  • Wee Lap Tee
  • Petite Pegs
  • Teeny Beanie
  • Walk the Plank- Adult
  • Walk the Plank- Youth

Youth:

  • Jolly Roger Raglan
  • Jolly Roger Add-On Pack
  • Sugar Pie Dolman
  • Spice Cake Dolman
  • Me Hearties Dress + Peplum
  • Yo Ho Henley
  • Tiny Timeless
  • Baby Bear Joggers
  • Fav Tee
  • Butterfly Cardigan
  • Heart Breaker Cami
  • Little Loungers
  • Sweet Bow Dress
  • SOS Knit Pants- Youth
  • So Classic Sundress- Youth
  • Go To Jacket- Youth
  • Cpt. Mack’s Cardigan

Womens

  • Slim Fit Raglan
  • Relaxed Raglan
  • Raglan Add-On Pack – for women
  • Sweet Tee Dolman
  • Pumpkin Spice Dolman
  • Sweetheart Dress + Peplum
  • Siren Swim Top
  • Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms
  • Layer Me Up Shirt
  • Women’s Henley
  • Essential Tank
  • Sunshine Dress
  • Free Spirit Tank
  • Women’s Henley
  • Timeless Tunic
  • Mama Bear Joggers
  • Carefree Cardigan
  • Granpda Cardigan
  • Summer Kimono
  • Cocoon Cardigan
  • Cross my Heart Cami
  • Favortie Tee
  • Linen Loungers
  • SOS Knit Pants
  • So Classic Sundress
  • Go To Jacket- Womens
  • Ragdoll Raglan

Mens:

  • Go To Jacket- Mens
  • Papa Bear Joggers
  • Men’s Henley

Filed Under: Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos 60 Comments

Carefree with added Button

December 22, 2015

I’ve seen a lot of draped front cardigans with the big wooden buttons on Pinterest and in the Boutiques…and of course I thought, “I can do that!” So the Carefree Cardigan Big Button Modification was born!

carefree cardigan add big button tutorial

The Carefree Cardigan is perfect for the look.

carefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorial

I choose the neckband only option, cuffed long sleeve, and choose to leave the front and bottom raw.

I’ve been making a ton of Carefrees after Baby Girl made her arrival… it is such a nice baby wearing cardigan that I feel cute in and can wrap us both up in when it’s windy or cold.  I can also use it nursing her so easily without worrying about bringing another cover or getting anything on or ready when she’s ready to nurse! So, I thought I’d make TWO buttonhole placements… one for normal wear that just pulls the cardigan closed at the neckline… and a second for when I’m wearing Baby Girl and need the neckline open much more.

carefree-cardigan-button2carefree-cardigan-button1I sewed up my entire cardigan exactly as normal. Then tried it on both with Baby Girl on me and without and marked where I would like the cardigan to close.  Of course, Little Guy had to come photobomb a few shots ;).

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I placed my button down a bit away from my neck, because I happen to be one of those people who can’t stand anything tight up against their neck (you will never see a turtle neck from this designer ;)).

carefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorial

So now I needed to create the buttonholes, which is a bit different then usual because I wanted the GIANT buttons that are so popular right now and my sewing machine can’t fit a button near that big on my automatic buttonhole foot.  SOOOO, I made my own buttonhole with 2 different size zigzag stitches.

First I marked my button placement and how big I need the buttonhole to be.

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Then I sewed a very narrow rectangle that would be my buttonhole.  I turned my zigzag length down very low to 1, so that it was a tight stitch.

For the top and bottom of my rectangle I used a wide 5 zigzag and for the sides I used a narrow 2.  I simple freehanded it.

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I used matching navy thread, so I knew if it wasn’t exactly perfect that no one would be able to see.  Actually, the thread matched so close it was REALLY difficult to get a picture of the buttonhole!

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Then I used my seam ripper to very carefully rip a line inside the narrow rectangle/buttonhole.

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I created a second buttonhole for my baby wearing, looser option.

Wa-lah! Now I have a great on trend cardigan that was quick and easy that I can button up with or without Baby Girl! 🙂

carefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorialcarefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorial

 

 

Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Pattern Hacks 7 Comments

Raglan Colorblock Tutorial (Guest Post)

December 15, 2015

Today’s post is a fun one!
We are giving you all a special guest post from a Patterns for Pirates fan, who sewed up this adorable colorblocked version of the Women’s Raglan.  Ashley posted this on the P4P facebook group and we couldn’t help but want her to share it on here.

raglan-colorblock-tutorial-cover

Ashley’s tutorial is specifically for the women’s raglan, to achieve the look that she has masterfully come up with.  BUT, you can take information from this and colorblock anything with these techniques!  (For instance, P4P’s Katy shows you how to do a curved colorblock with the women’s henley on her blog HERE.)

Without further ado, take it away Ashley!

Front Colorblock

a. Start with the Front of the Raglan Pattern. Mine is cut for the Small size. I then take a sheet of wax pattern and unroll it until it’s just about the size of the pattern piece. Trace the existing pattern onto the wax paper and decide what length and neckline you would like. In this example, you’ll see the curved hem and a modified V Neck (see step 2 for instructions on doing the V-­‐Neck prior to going onto step b).

b. From the end of the arm hole measure 2.5 inches Draw a line straight across the pattern piece (shown as the green line in Figure 1). . Then measure ¼ of an inch down from that line and draw another line. ( Shown as the blue line on Figure 1. Here you are adding on ¼ seam allowance for when you add your stripe pieces).

c. Cut on the pattern on the 2 ¾ line (blue). Continue with cutting the rest of the pattern. Make sure you make all of the original marks like fold lines and notches so that you can line up the pattern correctly. I also label what each piece is so that I don’t get confused later on. d. FT = Front Top, FB= Front bottom.

V-­‐Neck adjustment

a. I personally don’t like a deep V-­‐neck. So what I did on the Front is where the flat part (small pink line) is on the top of the pattern, where the front scoop (green line) and the armhole meet, I extended it to the left, approximately 1/4inch. I then eye balled it where I wanted the V to end on the middle front of the shirt and drew a diagonal line from that point to beginning of the new flat part (long pink line).

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

Sleeve alterations

a. Start by taking the sleeve piece and unroll two pieces of wax paper. You’ll have to tape them together in order for it to be wide enough.

b. Trace the outline of the existing sleeve.

c. Measure 2.5 inches down from the left shoulder seam that will eventually meet the front seam ( green line). In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dots line on the original pattern.

d. Measure ¼ inch from the green line and draw a straight line across the pattern (blue line). Again here we are just adding a seam allowance. In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dot dash on the original pattern.

e. RT= Right Top

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

f. I then used the existing solid red short sleeve line for where I wanted my stripe to end. I drew a line across there (green) and also ¼ of an inch down from there (blue). The middle piece with the seam allowances added is equal to 2.5 inches wide, which when sewn, will give you an ending piece of 2 inches.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

g. Now that we have the top and bottom sections of the arm we need to do the middle part with the stripe. What I did to make things easier was draw lines across in the middle of the middle sections and shaded it in so that I could see how wide the stripe was going to end up being on the finished product. (See photo)

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

h. After I was happy with it I cut the pattern on the GREEN line of the RT and the BLUE line of the RB. Now here’s the tricky part. If you were to just cut out that piece you would end up with a middle piece that’s too small and therefore our sleeve length will be short. I took the RM in the wax paper and taped it onto two pieces of computer paper. I then measured ¼ inch on the top and ¼ inch from the bottom. I extended the lines out in order to make the total width of the RM 2.5 inches.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

i. For the stripe in the middle of RM I measured the shaded in part of it and then traced the measurements onto a piece of computer paper so that I had a hard copy and not just the wax paper.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

Cutting

a. Whew! The hard part is over. Now would be a good time to eat a donut or whatever your favorite snack is because you just made it through the hardest part of the hack (in my opinion.)

b. Now that you have all of your pieces you need to decide what color you want the top and bottom parts of the front. In my example the top is plaid and the bottom is black. I then took all the parts for plaid, FT, RT, RB, & stripe and made those into a pile. Then FB, RM, and Back in another pile for black.

c. When you lay out your pattern pieces make sure that if it needs to be on a fold, like the FT, FB, or back that you put it on a fold. For all of the sleeve pieces I just doubled up my fabric so that I end up with a Right and a Left once cut instead of mirroring (too much work).

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

d. I added about 1.5 inches to the bottom of RB also so that I could hem the sleeves. You do not need to add as much as I do it’s your preference. You can do anywhere from .5 inch to 1.5 here because we aren’t attaching cuffs.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

e. The only thing you need to remember with cutting FB is that you need to measure up ¼ inch in order to account for the seam allowance when you sew them together. All of my seam allowances are ¼ inch until you sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Those you would do your normal ½ inch.

f. You also want to cut out your RM pieces. Those do not require a fold.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

g. Once you have everything cut out, keep the pattern pieces for the sleeves pinned so that it’s easier to put all the left and right pieces together.

Sewing machine/Serger time!!!

a. Time to put this shirt together. The first thing I always do is my hems, so that they are out of the way. You can do them however you want but I find it easiest to iron first, then use hem tape, and finish with a straight top stitch. I avoid zigzag stitches at all costs just because that’s the easiest way for me to tell between a store bought and homemade shirt. Personal preference only.

b. Now that the shirt hems and sleeve hems are finished let’s start with the easier pieces. Take TF and BF with right sides together and sew at the seam. Always remember rights to rights.

c. I serge everything when it comes to apparel so when that is finished I press the seam and top stitch so that it lays nicely when you wear it. This is optional.

d. Now it’s time to do the sleeves. I took a strip of Heat N’ Bond Lite (or Wonder Under) and with the wrong side of the stripe on the sticky side, iron on the Heat N’ Bond. Let cool and then peel off paper backing. Then line up in the middle of MR and press to adhere to MR. Top stitch or zigzag around edges in order to secure (optional).

e. Line up TR bottom edge with MR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch

f. Line up MR bottom and BR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch. Repeat with Left sleeve pieces.

You are in the home stretch.
Now all that’s left is to follow the same steps you would take with any other raglan. Attach the sleeves to the front and back panels and then sew sleeve seams and side seams.

The VNeck I treated similar to any other neckband except I didn’t start with a loop nor did I measure it out beforehand. I just cut a strip about 1.5 inches wide, folded in half, and press, then starting at the V in the front attach like you would binding on a quilt or other necklines.

I hope everyone enjoys this new colorblock design and if anyone has any questions I’d be happy to help out or explain something!

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.dMicrosoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

***Next time I think I’ll just make the MR and Stripe one piece similar to the elbow patch instead of spending so much time sewing each piece of the sleeve together and topstitching. That way you could cut full sleeve pieces and then attach the MR/ML with Heat N’Bond and zigzag stitch down.

Filed Under: Guest Post, How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Pattern Hacks Leave a Comment

Lumberjack Shirt :: Sleeve Hack

December 12, 2015

Sometimes, I want/need to make a new dress shirt for my kiddo but I want to make it as quickly as I can.  The collar and button plackets take enough time as-is, so the only thing I can truly eliminate (and save time on) is the cuffs.  Most of the time, Louis is pushing and rolling his sleeves up anyway, so I thought maybe I could cut some corners and give him a shirt with the rolled up sleeve look.  It’s cool and casual, but still has a “dressy” appeal to it.  I love the entire look and idea of it.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-002

First, you will need to get your hands on the Lumberjack Shirt pattern.  If you don’t own this yet and you have a little person in your life, you should probably get on that.  The Lumberjack is great in that it can be made lined, with a hood, and be this super awesome fall/spring jacket.  Or you can make it unlined and with a collar and have yourself a custom-fit buttondown shirt.  I’ve done both versions plenty of times now.

To achieve the faux rolled sleeve, it’s just a few easy steps.  Promise.

After cutting out all of your pieces (you won’t need the cuff or placket!), per the pattern’s instructions lay out your sleeve pieces and take two inches off of the bottom edge.  Why?  Because when you roll the sleeves, it is tighter at the bottom and it might be too snug.  Even with those little arms that are fitting into the top.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-013

Sew the shirt as you the instructions direct you.  When you get to the cuff/sleeve part, all you’ll need to do to finish the sleeves themselves is a simple three step process.

#1: Finish the edge.  Serge it or do a small rolled hem.  Anything to keep the edge from fraying, as it will not be fully enclosed.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-014

#2: Turn the edge up 1/4″ and press.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-015

#3: Turn the edge up 2″, but do not press.  You want this to allow the “rolled up” look of the sleeve.  Once rolled, hand tack the sleeve in two places (I chose the arm seam and directly opposite of it).  The tacking will help the sleeve stay in place but still allow for the look to be pulled off.

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Finish the rest of the shirt as instructed.  And then sit back and enjoy the new beauty you just created.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-017P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-018
I adore how the simple change of sleeves moves from a more formal shirt to something more casual.  It’s such a fun look for a little dude, especially one who is singing in a Christmas concert at his school.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-006P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-004

Followed one of the hacks shared on this site?  Or maybe you came up with something of your own?  We are DYING to know!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

And while you’re at it, make sure to pick up your very own copy of the Lumberjack Shirt.  Happy sewing!

Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Pattern Hacks Leave a Comment

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not.  The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy.  Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works.  But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit.  The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form.  Heaven, right?

p4p-palazzo-hack-tutorial

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos.  Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants.  Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing.  It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric.  Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement.  Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

P4P Palazzo Hack-006

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy.  And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever!  Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″?  The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around.  Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs.  Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

P4P Palazzo Hack-003

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge.  Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam.  Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

P4P Palazzo Hack-004 P4P Palazzo Hack-005

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

P4P Palazzo Hack-009

Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece.  I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie.  I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

IMG_6096

Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube.  I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

IMG_6106IMG_6107Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

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For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease.  Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants.  I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted.  (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

IMG_6099IMG_6100IMG_6098Next, I marked my buttonholes.  I did about 1/2″ from the center for each.  I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

IMG_6103IMG_6101You will need to use a knit button hole.  Here is what mine looks like on my machine.  The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

IMG_6102IMG_6104Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs.  The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants.  After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband.  I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

IMG_6105IMG_6112Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

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Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉  I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go.  The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things.  Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

IMG_2002 copy

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

pocket1pocket2Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

pocket3lined pocket

Unlined Pocket                                                                                                 Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket:  Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

pocket4

Stitch Pocket on front leg.  Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

palazzo


There you have it!  Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs.  Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams.  (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks?  Or came up with something of your own?  We are DYING to see it!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Pattern Hacks 4 Comments

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