How adorable are the new Petite Pegs? So much cuteness in such a small package. If you haven’t downloaded your FREE copy, do that here. Today on the blog I wanted to show you how to add cuffs to the Petite pegs.
We will start by shortening the length of the Petite Pegs by 1″. To do that simply grab a ruler and draw a line 1 inch above the ankle cut line. This will be your new pegs ankle length. Cut the two mirrored legs using this new cut line.
You will now be cutting the cuffs. I did the math for you so just follow the cutting chart below. Remember to cut two cuffs, one for each leg.
*If you babywear a lot you might find it helpful to double the cuff length. This way the long cuff can be folded down over the heel. It’s a popular way to wear pants when you’re babywearing because otherwise the pant legs hike up and then the baby ankles stick out.
Sew the Petite Pegs as per the tutorial. Grab your little cuffs and fold them to create a memory hem. Press and steam.
Sew the cuffs to create a loop and fold them. Take a moment to look over the tips I gave you in the Knit Cuffs 101 blog. They will definitely come in handy when attaching these itty bitty cuffs to the little pegs.
Attach the cuffs to the leg opening with your serger or the sewing machine following a 1/2″ seam allowance. Make sure you match the cuffs’ side seams to the leggings inseam. Stretch the cuff to fit the leg opening.
When attaching the cuffs you can place your serger foot on the outside of the leg (as pictured above) or inside the leg (as pictured below). You will be working with a pretty small loop so go slow!
Tadah! There you have it, Petite Pegs with cuffs! I can’t wait to see your little creations!
Note: You may find it easier to attach the flat cuff to the leg instead of sewing the inseams and the cuff in a loop. You can certainly do that, you will be sewing the inseam after you attach the cuffs. You can read about some ways to finish your serger seam here.
Welcome to the day 5 of the P4P Henley sew along. Today’s steps include adding the neckband or the hood.
If you have done the solid front shirt (no placket) you will now be adding the neckband as in the pattern tutorial. For additional tip, check out our P4P University Neckbands 101 blog and videos here.
If your sew along choice was a Henley style shirt then you would now be adding the henley neckband. This neckband is not sewn in a loop like the crew neckband was. Take a moment to watch the video below. The most important thing to keep in mind when adding this neckband is to go very slow and baste!
Hood (with or without the placket)
The Henley patterns include a hood for the placket option. For this sew along we wanted to show you how easy it is to add a hood to the solid front option. The only pattern modifications you will need to make is to extend the front of the hood by 1/2″.
Sew the hood as per the pattern tutorial. Overlap the front neckline 1/2″ and baste in place.
Mark the quarter points of the hood and the neckline. Turn your shirt inside out and place the hood right sides together, matching the quarter points.
Sew or serge the hood to the neckline following a 1/2″ seam allowance. See how easy it was to add a hood to the plain front shirt?
**The links won’t be active until the scheduled date.
January 14: Announcement.
January 15: Choosing Your Fabrics, Printing + Measuring.
January 16: Cutting Fabric.
January 17: Placket.
January 18: Sleeves.
January 19: Attaching Neckband + Hood.
January 20-21: Catch-Up Days.
January 22: Recap + Winners Announced!
The Jolly Roger is probably one of the most used patterns in my son’s wardrobe! It’s fast, easy, and has lots of option to mix it up with the add-on pack. However, one of my favorite looks is a layered sleeve, which can be hard to accomplish when my son always wants to wear a sweatshirt! Enter- the faux sleeve! This hack is very easy to do and can also be used with other long sleeve patterns, including the Yo-ho Henley and Relaxed Raglan.
The only modification you will need to complete to achieve this look is to alter the sleeve. All other pieces will be cut out as directed and sewn as per the tutorial.
The first thing you will need to do is cut the upper sleeve piece. To do so, use the short sleeve cut line, however you will want to cut 1″ BELOW this line. Don’t forget to cut two MIRROR image upper sleeve pieces! After cutting the upper sleeve pieces, you will cut out the bottom pieces. Using the same method, use the short sleeve cut line again, however cut 1″ above this line. Again, don’t forget to cut two MIRROR images. You will now assemble your sleeve pieces. Place right sides together and stitch using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Press your seam towards the upper sleeve piece.
You will now complete the rest of your Jolly Roger Raglan (or other shirt) according to the directions. Make sure that when you are sewing the sleeve and side seam, to align the faux hem as well.
Be sure to share your creations with us in our Facebook group and I can’t wait to see what kind of fun layering ideas you come up with!
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With the off the shoulder look being all the rave right now, I just had to show you how easy it is to get the look with our newest Ragdoll pattern. I will show you two different looks, one more modest and one sexier if you will. The technique will be the same for both you will just make the sleeve cut out different sizes. Feel free to play with it to get your desired cold shoulder size.
Start by printing the pattern in your size. You will be cutting out a portion of the sleeves as in the graphic below.
Hem the cutout using a 1/2″ hem allowance. The easiest way to do that is to steam press and pin it in place with a lot of pins (or clips). Stitch with your coverstitch, a twin needle or a zig zag stitch. Don’t forget to give it a good press after you hem it.
Sew the shirt or dress as shown in the pattern tutorial. All we have left to do now is attach the neckband. Press 1/2″ memory hem as shown below.
Fold the neckband lengthwise and press it really well. Sew the short sides together to create a loop. Mark the center back (where the seam is) and the center front.
Match the center back of the neckband with the center back of the shirt. Slightly stretch the unfolded neckband and pin it to the back. Repeat for the front of the shirt. Using a stretch stitch, sew the neckband to the shirt right sides together.
Using the memory hem you created earlier enclose the front and back of the shirt and stitch the neckband with either your coverstitch machine, twin needles or a zig zag stitch.
All you have to do now is give the neckband a good steam press and show off your new cold shoulder shirt.
Play around with the cut-out size and get more looks!
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During Raglan Week last year, we showed how to create a keyhole back for the Slim Fit Raglan (here), so I knew a tie back option for the RagDoll Raglan had to be done. Instead of binding the neckline, I decided to do a spaghetti strap style tie. You can really use anything for your ties; lace, ribbon, etc. but will show you how to make the spaghetti straps.
Cut your patterns pieces as usual:
- front, back with low scoop option, 2 sleeves (mirror image).
- For the ties, I did 1.5″ x 22″. You can adjust to your preference but found this to be a good length for me.
- Neckband: as per pattern but less 3″ from the width measurement on the cut chart. Example: Size large is 2.75″ x 26.75″ so my adjusted neckband is 2.75′ x 23.75″.
Construct your pattern as provided in the tutorial but skip hemming the low back curve. We will do that after the back has been attached to the sleeves.
Now to create the ties.
Now, we can finish the neckband.
The tie back gives a much more open back but is perfect to show off all those strappy bralettes :).
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We couldn’t have ended this hack series without a twist back. For this option, you will need to print and cut the low back option. You will not be adding the neckband to this hack so the shirt neckline will be 1.5″ lower than the intended look of the pattern. You may need to wear a cami underneath (like the Cross My Heart Cami) or you can raise the neckline prior to cutting the fabric. Check out this “how to” blog!
Place the back top piece 1/2″ away from the fold line.
Using a 1/2″ hem allowance, hem the top and bottom. You can use a coverstitch, a zig zag stitch or twin needles.
Twist the top piece twice so the right side of both the left and right sides are up. Baste the top and bottom pieces together as in the tutorial.
Attach the sleeves matching the notches. There will be 1/2″ excess fabric at the top which will be hemmed next.
Hem the neckline with a 1/2″ hem allowance. All you have left to do is give the shirt a good press and show it off!
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Off the Shoulder
Last but not least, we couldn’t leave you without a full off the shoulder option. Using the same idea that we did for the Relaxed Raglan (here), we’re going to remove some height to all the pattern pieces (front, back, and sleeve). Also, be sure to move your notches to help you keep the pieces in order and you know which side lines up with one another.
For the band, I used the same measurement as the waistband in the pattern. In hindsight, I could have made it a smidge tighter around the shoulders but as is doesn’t move around too much. Now, I didn’t measure each size, but just to be safe…..measure your neckline once you’ve completed the main pieces. Make your band between 80-85% (plus seam allowance) of the opening. (Unsure how to measure the neckline? Check out this blog post for more details.) Mark in quarter and stitch just like you would a waistband. As with any neckband though, be sure your band has good recovery! This will help keep it up on your shoulders. 🙂
Make a RagDoll Raglan? Be sure so share you makes in the Facebook Group or tag us on Instragram!
In one of my daily Pinterest browsing sessions (admit it, we all do it!) I came across some great boho tops that just screamed fall to me. Needless to say I had to have one so in today’s blog I will show you how to create this simple boho shirt using just the Timeless Tunic pattern and a few easy modifications.
Start by printing your pattern in your size. You will only need the bodice pieces and the sleeves (if you are not making the tank option). Skip the skirt! Measure the front and back bottom width. We need that measurement to create the gathered skirt. Since the look we’re going for is a relaxed boho style we will not be adding the elastic casing or the elastic.
Cut the skirt part of the top 9″ by 1.5x bottom width. If you prefer your top longer you can certainly make the pieces 11-12″ instead of 9″. You will cut two pieces, one for the front and one for the back.
Using your favorite gathering method (serger gather, zig zag over dental floss, longest stitch/highest tension, etc) gather the top of the skirt pieces to match the bottom of the top.
Sew the top as per the pattern instructions.
Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, sew the side seams of the skirt to create a loop. Attach the gathered skirt to the top matching the side seams.
I can’t wait to see your take on this top so be sure to post your creations in the P4P group.
The full-length mermaid-esque dress is gorgeous, but maybe you want to pair it with a different top or choose different fabrics? With this simple hack, you can create a gorgeous set and wear them as separates. For the skirt, cut along the crop cutline. Stitch the center back seam and each side seam. Using the cropped band measurement and instructions, attach to the top edge of the skirt. Easy peasy!
How cute is Katy in this Ariel inspired Haloween outfit!
And seriously, how amazing is this sequin skirt!!
Keeping with the concept of separates, but perhaps you still wanted a dress. Doing a color-block bodice gives you a chance to mix up your fabrics. Since there is already a crop cutline on the pattern pieces that hits at the natural waist, we will be using that as a guideline. Re-trace the crop cutline 1/2″ above and below it to create your seam allowance on both the front and back pattern pieces. Cut your new top bodice and bottom skirt from both front and back. For the back, you will have 2 back top bodices (mirror image) and 2 back bottom skirt (mirror image) pieces. For assembly, with right sides together, stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance the front bodice to the front skirt. Repeat for both back bodice and skirt pieces. Continue construction as provided int he pattern. 🙂
Decorative Button Back
Adding embellishments to your dress can give it some extra special details that will set it apart from the next. Since the pattern is drafted for stable knits, you do not need a zipper or functional buttons to put it on, so these buttons are purely for decorative reasons. I love the finishing touch it gives the back. Using the center back seam as a guideline, I hand stitched pearl buttons every 1/2″. I used the zipper lengths as mentioned in the tutorial as a guide where to end my button placement. For this version, I used a total of 13 buttons. ”
Straps for off the shoulder
Love the off the shoulder but hate wearing strapless bras? No problem! Let’s add some cute straps to the Wiggle off the shoulder dress that will cover your bra straps. Print the off the shoulder option of the pattern and sew it up as per the pattern tutorial. Stop at the neckline finishing steps. Cut two pieces of fabric 4″x 9.5″. These will be your straps. The length of your straps may vary slightly based on the size you make.
Fold the straps lengthwise and sew them side with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Turn the straps inside out and press them with the seam in the center.
For perfect straps placement, try the dress on with your favorite bra. Mark with a pin or a clip where the bra straps will be.
Sew the straps to the dress with the right sides together. Finish the neckline as per the pattern tutorial.
That’s all! You now have yet a new style of the new Wiggle dress!
The Wiggle Dress is already packed with soo many options and great for every season but I don’t know about anyone else but summer here is HOT!! I can not handle any type of sleeves at all so a sleeveless version of the Wiggle dress would be what I would want for summer and lucky for me it is a really quick and easy hack. Let’s get started.
First, you are going to cut all your pieces except for your sleeves. You do not need to modify the armscye at all for this hack so just cut your front and back as usual. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams as directed in the pattern, but skip the section for adding a sleeve. Next, you will iron and pin your armscye to the wrong side 1/2″ inch as shown below. Topstitch using your favorite stretch stitch.
Now just finish up the dress or top as instructed in the pattern and you’re done. Quick, right!?
Full Zipper Back
As soon as I saw the Wiggle dress I knew I had to make a full zipper back! So I took it up a notch and bought a dual zipper. This style zipper opens at the top and bottom. You can add this zipper to the high back, low back or even the off the shoulder option as well as the above, bellow or midi length. Just make sure the zipper you use is long enough! As a point of reference, I used a 48″ zipper for the high back, midi length style.
Start by marking the hem on the center back seam.
Add a strip of 1/4″ Wonder Tape to the center back seam, 1.4″ away from the edge. Start at the point you marked above and stop 1/2″ away from the top.
Repeat with the other back piece.
Remove the paper backing of the Wonder tape and adhere the zipper right sides together. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Zip up the zipper and place the other side of the back piece, right sides together, making sure that the bottom and top match.
Sew in place and top stitch.
Now that you have your back piece ready, sew the dress as per the tutorial. You will be enclosing the zipper in the bottom hem as shown below.
All done! Now all you have to decide is where the next date night will be! 🙂
I loved the idea of a full-length zipper like Alex showed us above, but when it came to finding one locally, I wasn’t able to get one the length I needed. I did find a chunky zipper that would be perfect to use as an exposed zipper and just so happened to work out that it’s finished length was about knee length. I opted to go with the midi length and do a split hem at the center back. You will install your zipper the same as you would in the tutorial, except place it on the RIGHT side of the fabric with the wrong side of the zipper centered along the back seam.
I’ll be honest, Judy created this dress while we were pre-testing and I had to replicate it. Adding a lace applique is super easy but adds a super sexy and classic flair. For this particular version, the lace extends along the entire side seam, so I constructed my bodice first, added the lace to the top, then sewed my sleeves on so that the lace was enclosed in the armscye. You can, of course, add lace wherever you’d prefer, such as the neckline or bottom hem but I love the silhouette the wide stripe gave from the front and back. I used a fairly narrow zig-zag stitch down the center seam and along each edge of the stretch lace trim. Be sure to keep your lace taut as you sew along the waist and hip curves.
Front Leg Slit
What sexy dress doesn’t include a slit! Show off those legs and add a front slit to your wiggle.
We couldn’t end this epic hacks series without a Wiggle dress/Sweetheart mash up. I just had to make myself a black velvet and lace long dress. We all need one in our closets, right?
This mash is super easy. Simply take the front patterns of the wiggle dress and mark the sweetheart color-block lines using the Sweetheart dress top pattern piece. Don’t forget to add the seam allowance!
Sew the two front pieces (lace and velvet) as suggested in the Sweetheart pattern.
Once you do that simply follow the directions in the Wiggle Dress pattern to finish your dress. I used lace for my sleeves too. Since I didn’t have any black elastic and I certainly couldn’t use white elastic for the neckline, I used clear elastic instead. It worked like a charm!
Tadah! Just by adding a sexy sweetheart color block front, you took your Wiggle dress up a notch!
Holy Moly…. I think we covered just about every hack we could come up with to take The Wiggle Dress to the next level (if it wasn’t already on its own)! Make a Wiggle? Hop on over to the Facebook Group, and share your makes, we’d love to see it!
Ahoy, pirates! Hope you grabbed your FREE Walk the Plank pajama pants patterns by now. If not you can get them here. Today I wanted to show you how easy it is to add patch pockets to the pattern so all those husbands, boyfriends and sons of ours will be even happier with their new PJ pants. I’ll also show you how to enclose the the elastic in the seam.
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Front patch pockets
Start by printing the WTP pattern piece in the size needed. Now grab your Papa Bear Joggers (Mama Bear or Baby Bear) pants pattern and print only the page(s) that include the Patch Pocket. You now have two pattern pieces, the pants and the pocket. Cut the leg fabric (two mirrored images) and 4 pocket pieces (2 mirrored images for the main and 2 for the lining). The PJ pants pattern is drafted for woven fabric. I did use knit instead…you can do that too if you want!
Take your pockets and place them right side together. Sew around the edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving 2-3″ opening so we can turn the pocket.
Clip the corners and snip the curve of the pocket as close to the seam as possible (without clipping the stitch). Turn your pocket inside out a press very well. Repeat with the other pocket.
Top stitch only the pocket curve opening.
Take the pants pattern piece and place it right side up. Fold the pants so the inseam matches making sure the front is on top. Measure 4″ down from the waist edge and 1 inch away from the side fold. Place the pocket as in the picture below and pin in place.
Note: you will need to adjust these measurements if you are making the kids Walk the Plank pj pants.
Sew the pocket to the pants making sure you leave the pocket curve open. You will only be sewing around the 5 straight edges. Repeat for the other leg.
That’s it! You added patch pockets to the pajama pants. Simply continue to construct the pattern as per the tutorial and enjoy a new pair of PJs WITH POCKETS!
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Back patch pocket
Next I want to show you how to add a back pocket to your Walk the Plank PJ pants. This hack is even easier and it does not require any additional P4P patterns. Simply cut one rectangular piece of the same fabric or a coordinating one. The size of the rectangle will vary depending on how big you would like the pocket. I cut my piece 5″ wide by 6″ tall and I am making a size 6 PJ pants.
Optionally, you can serge around the edges to prevent fraying in the wash.
Fold the top of the pocket 1″ down, press and sew in place.
Now fold the other three sides 1/2″ and give it a good press. Do not sew them just yet.
Take your pants pattern piece and with the right side out, match the inseam. Place it on the table with the back facing up. The back part of the pants is the one with the higher rise.
Place the pocket approximately 3″ down from the rise. Note that this placement will vary from size to size so I encourage you to baste in place insead of sewing in place if you are not sure if you’ll like where the pocket sits.
Edge sew the pocket to the pants (or baste) making sure you do not sew the top but only the bottom and the sides of the pocket.
Continue sewing the PJ pants as per the pattern tutorial and enjoy you new pair of back pocket Walk the Plank pants. 🙂
NOTE: If you basted the pocket, try the pants on! If you like where the pocket sits, stitch it in place. IF you don’t, you can easily remove the pasting stitches and relocate the pocket before you sew it in place.
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Enclosed elastic waistband
Next up I would like to show you how to enclose the elastic in the waist so you do not have any visible serged edges. Sew your PJ pants as indicated in the tutorial. Press the top of the pants 1/4″ down in order to create a memory hem.
NOTE: this method will yield a rise that will be 1/4″ lower than the original pattern.
Sew the elastic in a loop (as per the pattern) and mark the quarters with pins or clips. Find the quarters of the waist opening and match the elastic quarter points to them, placing the top of the elastic 1/4″ of an inch down from the top of the pants. Use the memory crease mark as a guide.
Sew the elastic with a a zig zag stitch.
Fold the top top of pants down. This may be a tricky process since you will have to stretch the elastic as you go. Take it slowly and press!
Fold the elastic down and pin in place. You will again need to stretch the elastic so you might find it easier to skip pinning and just use your hand to hold it in place when you sew.
Sew as close to the edge as you can, stretching the elastic to make sure the fabric lays flat when you stitch it.
There you have it…. an enclosed elastic for your new PJ pants!
Hope you found these easy hacks helpful. Don’t forget to show your creations in the P4P group! We love to see what you make for you and your loved one.
In true P4P fashion, we have a few easy, fun hacks for the Brunch Blouse. Grab the pattern here and get creating!
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Color Block Dress
First off I will show you how to achieve a color block look with the dress option of the Brunch Blouse. You can use the same principles for the top option, you will just need to adjust some measurements. Start by printing the pattern in the size you need. Now grab a ruler and some scissors or a rotary cutter (for paper only 😉 ) because we’ll do some cutting.
Take the front pattern piece and mark 1.5″ down from where the dart mark is. Now draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to the center fold). Measure the distance between this line and the bottom of the dress.
Divide the length in half and draw a horizontal line at the half way mark. You have now split the front in 3 separate pieces.
Measure the side seam from the bottom to the bottom colorblock line. Take your back piece and measure up on the side seam the same amount and mark it. Now draw a horizontal line on the back piece. We will be measuring the front middle part side seam now. Mark the point on the back piece from the bottom colorblock line to whatever the measurement was for the middle front side piece. Draw a horizontal line front that marking point. You have now color blocked your back pattern pieces too, making sure that they will line up beautifully with the front color block pieces. Great job!
We will now cut the fabric. DO NOT FORGET THE SEAM ALLOWANCE! Since we are only dealing with straight color blocking lines, I will show you the easiest way to add SA. Simply use a quilter’s ruler and cut away 1/2 from the newly designed pattern pieces. Remember you need to add seam allowance only to the colorblock parts, NOT the center fold or side and middle back seam. Those seam allowances are already included in the pattern.
Once you have all your pieces cut (3 for the front, 6 for the back) you will start sewing them together. First sew the front top to the front middle (RST) with 1/2″ seam allowance, serger your raw edges and optionally top stitch. You will now sew the front bottom to the front middle, right sides together. You now have your front piece ready. Repeat the process for the back pieces. Remember that the back of the Brunch Blouse is not cut on fold so you will end up with two mirrored back cuts.
Finish sewing your BB dress as per the tutorial instruction. How easy and fun was that? You can get creative with your color blocking…just imagine a beautiful ombre blouse, or a blouse with lace overlay for the top colorblock. The possibilities are endless.
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Belt Loops and Sash Hack
This hack is super easy but a fun option for a different look than the normal Brunch Blouse! You can do this hack with any option except the one that already includes the waist tie.
1. First, sew up your blouse/dress as usual. Make sure to mark the notches on the side seams, add a pin as well after you’ve sewn the side seams so that you can still see where the notch is.
2. To make the sash, refer to this cut chart based on your size. Cut two.
3. Right sides together, sew the short ends together. Press open and finish edges.
4. Right sides together, sew the long edges now, but leave 2″ unsewn in the middle. This is how you’ll turn it right side out when you’re done.
5. Iron the short edge over to form a triangle. Now sew here to make the pointed edge, and trim the seam allowance down to 1/2″.
6. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch as close to the edge as you feel comfortable. When you get to the 2″ you left open, align the seam allowance inside and and stitch shut while topstitching.
7. For the belt loops, first decide if you want two or three. I opted for two because I didn’t want one on the back (I just don’t like the feeling).
8. Cut rectangles 3″ x 1.5″ – four for two belt loops or six for three belt loops.
9. Stitch along the long edges, right sides together. Then trim seam allowance to 1/4″.
10. Turn right side out, press short raw edges to the back 1/2″. then topstitch down the long edges as close to the edge as you feel comfortable.
11. Find the notch on the blouse side seams you marked earlier. Sew the loops on to the side seams, over the notch, by topstitching the short side 1/4″ from the edge. If you’d like a loop on the back too, find the middle of the back neckline and use a ruler to find the center back of the blouse from there and attach.
12. Press everything one last time. Slip in your sash into the loops and wear your new blouse!
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Front Zipper Hack
This is a little more intense and involves one of those scary things… you know, a zipper! Now, if you’ve never installed a zipper this may be a little daunting, but I promise, take it slow, you can do this!
I am using a 7″ (I think?) exposed metal zipper but you can choose your preferred length if you want it shorter or longer. If you’re choosing this option, do this prior to any other step in completing your top. So now, let’s get started.