Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Naughty Nice + Sugar Spice PJs :: New Pattern Release!

If you follow Patterns for Pirates on Instagram in the slightest, you’d know that we’ve been teasing these patterns for a while now.  And guess what?  Today, we are officially launching two brand new patterns for the P4P lineup.  Welcome aboard, Naughty Nice and Sugar Spice PJs!

These patterns are drafted for knit fabrics and comes with a multitude of options.  For the women’s pattern there are three lengths (cheeky, shorts and pants) and three sleeve lengths (short, 3/4 and long).  For the youth pattern, there are two lengths (short and pants) and three sleeve lengths (short, 3/4 and long).  These are a tight pajama with center front and back seams, and a neckline placket that can be closed using buttons or snaps.

Our favorite fabric types for these amazing new jammies?  We recommend a light to medium weight knit with at least 40-50% stretch such as cotton spandex, brushed poly, thermal spandex, French Terry spandex, and bamboo/modal spandex blends.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And, as with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.

Here’s a quick look at the different options!

Bottom Length:

Sleeve Lengths:

Placket front:

Are you ready to make the cutest (or sexiest) pair of pjs ever?!  Go grab the pattern and get to it!

NAUGHTY NICE PJs | SUGAR SPICE PJs | PJ BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group! Naughty Nice Album | Sugar Spice Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Friday, December 14, 2018 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Naughty Nice + Sugar Spice PJs :: Easy Hacks

Our newest pajama patterns are just so perfect for the holiday season, aren’t they? So if it’s a party, let’s make it a pajama party with some easy hacks that will add even more options to the Naughty Nice and Sugar Spice PJs you’ll be making.

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Zipper

 

Let’s start by switching the front of the Naughty Nice pajamas from a button/snap placket to a fun zipper. Fear not, it’s super easy! I personally find the zipper to take less time than adding all the snaps or buttons. Grab a 9″ zipper and let’s get started.

Sew the pajama as instructed in the tutorial, except for the neckband. You won’t be using the one in the tutorial, you’ll make a new neckband.

Lay your zipper right side down on the front opening. The to of the sipper will be at the curve. Sew it as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Using a zipper foot will make this easy.

Repeat the process on the other side of the zipper.

On the wrong side of the fabric, sew a straight stitch where the fabric and zipper meet and remove excess zipper.

Now that we added the zipper we need to create a new neckband. With the zipper closed measure the neck opening. I like to lay mine flat but you can measure anyway you feel comfortable.

Cut your neckband 85% of the neckline opening plus 1″ for seam allowance by 2.5 inches. Fold your neckband widthwise and round your open edge to resemble a henley neckband. Open then neckband and fold it lengthwise, wrong sides together. Give it a good press and mark the back and the quarter points.

Mark the quarter points on the neckline opening. With the zipper open, pin (or clip) the neckband in place.

Attach the neckband using a stretch stitch. Optionally, top stitch. I actually like to topstitch around the neckline and zipper right now, using a continuous stitch.

All done! You can use the same technique to add a front zipper to the Sugar and Spice PJs too. You will just have to adjust the zipper length.

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Lace Up Front

Want to spice up the naughty version or just want some extra fun detail? Instead of snaps or buttons, use grommets/eyelets on the front neckline.  Use as many or as little as you prefer.  I chose to do 4 spaced about 1.5″ apart.  Use drawstring, ribbon, lace or our knit fabric to create the string and lace it up!

 

 

 

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Hood

When I was searching for inspiration for my Naughty Nice PJs, I kept coming across hooded versions of this same style pajama.  I’m not sure how comfortable a hood would be to sleep in, but to have a little extra coziness around you while you’re lounging around?  Sign me up!  Plus, I think this pattern will translate so amazingly well for costumes next Halloween, and a hood is always a good thing to be able to attach for those as well.

You can use your favorite hood piece from any pattern.  I chose to use the Women’s Henley hood piece.

Assemble your hood piece like you normally would.  I chose not to line mine and hem it instead.

You’ll need to take two measurements:
— The width of the bottom edge of your hood, where it will attach to your PJs.
— The full length of the neckline + placket opening.

You won’t be using the neckband piece that comes with the pattern.  Instead, you’ll need to do a little more math.

(Neckline Opening Measurement – Hood Width Measurement) / 2 + 1″ Seam Allowance

This will give you your new placket piece length.  You’ll want two of them, for either side of the openings.

With your placket pieces folded in half (wrong sides together), pin it along the front placket opening and stitch.  Repeat with the second placket piece on the opposite side.  Follow the instructions just like the Naughty Nice / Sugar Spice patterns call for, to finish the bottom of your placket pieces.

With right sides together, align your hood piece along the raw edges of the neck opening.  Pin and stitch.  You’re done!

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Leg Placket

 

The last easy hack we wanted to show you is geared towards the Sugar and Spice. We all know how changing a bitty’s diaper can be difficult when they get all wiggly, especially in the middle of the night. So I wanted to show you how to add leg plackets to make changing a little easier.

Make the pajamas as instructed in the tutorial but do not stitch the inseam. Instead, add the cuffs flats, right sides together.

Once you add the cuffs, your pajama legs will look like this.

Open the PJ legs and measure the front and back inseams.

Cut two strips of fabric and interfacing that will be the measured length plus 1″ by 2″ width. Add the interfacing to the placket, fold and press lengthwise.

Fold the placket pieces right sides together and sew a stitch along each short end. Use a 1/2″ seam allowance. Cut the seam allowance to about 1/8″ and turn outside out. Press.

Pin each placket strip to the leg opening, making sure you match the front placket to the front opening and the back placket to the back.

Stitch in place and top stitch. If you used a serger to add your plackets, take a look over this blog to see how to finish the serger tails.

All you have to do now is add your snaps. Space them about 1 – 1.5″ apart from each other.

All done! Now you have easy diaper change Sugar Spice Pajamas!

There you have it, 4 easy hacks to give your pajamas even more options! We can’t wait to see what your Naughty Nice and Sugar Spice Pajamas will be. Post your creations in the P4P group!

Alex, Nicole and Katy

2018 Holiday Freebies :: Avast, A Vest!

Can you believe that we are on our fifth and final day of freebies?  I hope you’ve enjoyed this past week as much as I have!

Today’s freebie is fun, quick and easy!  Think of it as a your vest friend.  (See what I did there?!)  Allow me officially shout out: Avast, A Vest!

Fabric Requirements: 1-1/2 yards of a medium weight, double sided fabrics.  Favorites: brushed hacci, jersey knit, french terry, dbp.

GRAB YOUR COPY OF THE AVAST! A VEST PATTERN HERE!

Why double sided?  Because of the way this vest is worn, the top is folded back and reveals the backside of the fabric.  We wanted this pattern to be as simple of a layering piece as possible.  But if you’re not loving the raw edges and backside of your fabric, cut two pieces, sew them together around the entire outer edge (right sides together, turn through one of the arm openings, and complete the rest of the tutorial that way!

If you need help folding your fabric to prepare for cutting, it’s just like a circle skirt!

———

Cut your pattern piece, making sure to fold selvedge to selvege and then top to bottom before cutting. **DO NOT cut your arm openings yet, or you will end up with four armholes. 

Open up your fabric piece, leaving it still folded in half along with the stretch going horizontally.

Grab your pattern piece, realign it along the top, and cut our your arm openings.

Use the pattern guides to mark the middle points of the top and bottom of both arm openings.

Fold the arm opening, to meet the pins you just placed together and mark the other quarter points of the opening.

1. Fold your armband piece, right sides together, meeting the short ends together.
2. Now meeting the long ends together, fold in half again.
3. Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew short raw edges (you will be sewing through four layers).

Flip open your armband, enclosing the seam cleanly in the middle. Repeat for other armband.

Mark quarter points of raw edges of armbands.

Slide the armband inside the bodice, aligning the raw edges and matching the quarter-marked points. Note: The armbands are slightly smaller than the bodice opening.

Stitch, using 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat with second armband.

Open it up and throw it on as your new favorite layering piece!  You’re welcome to finish the edges if you’d like, but this was meant to be a more flowy, open vest.

Here are a couple of photos from our holiday tester group:

Also be sure to head over the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and share what you’ve made with your new designs!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2018 Holiday Freebies :: Pirate Stocking Cap

On our THIRD day of freebies this holiday season, I thought it was time to bring to you a new hat pattern.  Did you know that I (Katy) started in the handmade selling world with crocheted hats?  Putting things on people’s heads apparently is my “thing” and it can be your thing too!

Today’s pattern is a super quick and easy one.  Perfect for scrap busting.  And even more perfect for people who like fun hats.

This stocking cap pattern comes in four sizes, which should cover the heads of the majority of your family!

XSmall (fits 17″ – 18″ head circumference) – Toddler
Small (fits 19″ – 20″ head circumference) – Child
Medium (fits 21″ – 22″ head circumference) – Teen/Adult
Large (fits 23″ – 24″ head circumference) – Adult

Grab your free pattern pieces here. If you need help putting the pattern together, pop over to the First Time Users Tips page or ask in our facebook group .

Recommended fabrics: Ponte, sweater knits, liverpool, brushed poly, rayon blends, tshirt knits, upcycled sweaters, etc.   Anything with a decent amount of drape to it works best, otherwise the “slouch” won’t happen as well.  I suggest washing your fabric before you begin to pre-shrink & help prevent color bleeding in the future.
Cuff piece: Any knits with at least a 20% stretch.

Instructions:

Lay one main hat piece, right side up.

Lay the second main piece on top, right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around the two outer edges.

With your fringe piece face down, start rolling it — wrong sides together.

You want this piece to be as close to 1/2″ wide as possible. Baste the top together.

Slide the fringe piece inside the main hat. Make sure to tuck all of the fringe edges inside, so you don’t catch them.

Stitch along the raw edges, using 1/2″ allowance. (You might find this step easier to do with your sewing machine, as it can generally handle a thicker amount of fabric than your serger.)

1. Fold your band piece, right sides together, meeting the short ends together.
2. Now meeting the long ends together, folding in half again.
3. Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew short raw edges (you will be sewing through four layers).

Flip open your band, enclosing the seam cleanly in the middle. Mark the half points of the band.

Slide the band over the hat body, aligning the raw edges and matching the half-marked points. Note: The band is slightly smaller than the hat body.

Stretching the band only, stitch through all three layers of raw edges.

You’re finished!!  So easy, right??

In case you needed it, here is some inspiration from our fabulous group of testers:

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Pirate Stocking Caps you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!

2018 Holiday Freebies :: Critter Clutch

Welcome back to the second day of our P4P Holiday Freebies 2018!  I’m not sure I can even handle the excitement I have over today’s free pattern.  I am so happy to have this idea out of my head and finally in pattern form, to share with all of you.  AND FOR FREE!

These Critter Clutches are simply adorable!  They take minimal amounts of fabric, with not too much time involved in it.  The hardest part is deciding which version to do first: Unicorn, Reindeer or Fox??!!

You will need:
— Critter Clutch pattern pieces + Eye Digital Designs for HTV (found HERE)
— 1/2 yard main fabric, 1/2 yard lining fabric
— Fusible Fleece: I like Pellon 987F (aff link)
— Buttons / Snaps / Velcro for eyes and closures

Recommended fabrics: quilting cotton, kona cotton, flannel, etc.

Cut out all pieces needed for your corresponding bag.

Prepping the Strap:

Cut 3″ long x 34″ wide strip of fabric.
**Note: Depending if you or the recipient will be wearing it cross body or straight down from one shoulder, you may want to adjust the width of this piece to your liking.

1. Fold in half, with long edges touching, wrong sides together. Press.
2. + 3. Open up, and fold each long edge into the crease you just created.
4. Fold, completely enclosing the raw edges.

Edge stitch along both long edges. Set aside.  Finished width: 3/4″.

Horn / Ear / Antler / Nose Pieces: 

*Tip: I added fusible fleece to these pieces to help them stand up better.  Some of our testers opted to fill them with a small amount of fiberfil.  Either way works!

Right sides together, sew along the outer edges using 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave the bottom open for turning.

Clip corners and allowance before turning to get a crisper edge.  Topstitch if desired.

I like to get a little funky with the unicorn horn and add some decorative stitches to it.  This also helps the horn’s stiffness.

Apply Interfacing:

Carefully trim away 1/4″ from each interfacing piece, to allow for easier turning.

Following the instructions from the manufacturer, apply interfacing to these pieces:

  • Front Main Piece
  • Main Gussett

Eyes + Closures:

I personally like to add the eyes and velcro / snaps to the front main piece before we assemble the bag.  It allows for all of the stitching or snaps to be enclosed inside of the bags, and it’s a lot easier to apply HTV to a flat surface.  You can wait until the end if you’d like!

The Fox and Reindeer’s eyes need to be a little more wide set.  And the Unicorn’s eyes work best if you apply them closer to the bottom of the bag front.

Velcro / button placement on front main piece:

  • Unicorn / Plain Bag: 2″ from the top, centered (4.5″ from either side)
  • Fox / Reindeer: 2″ from the bottom, centered

Velcro / button placement on Back Lining piece:

  • Unicorn / Plain Bag: 2″ from the top, centered (4.5″ from either side)
  • Fox / Reindeer: 1.5″ from the bottom, centered

REINDEER ONLY:

1″ from the top edge, pin and baste ears in place using 1/8″ seam allowance.

Back Main Assembly:

UNICORN ONLY: Take back main piece and mark the center along the top, straight edge.  Mark center of horn piece.

Right sides together, align and pin/clip horn in place.

Place ears on either side of horn.  **Be sure not to go outside of your seam allowance on the outer edges, or you’ll have trouble turning your bag because the ears will be stuck in the outer edges.

FOX and REINDEER ONLY:

Right sides together, place ears and antlers (not pictured) 1″ from the outer edge.

ALL ANIMAL BAGS:

Place top piece, right sides together. Stitch with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Press open, with horn, antlers and/or ears pressed toward top and seam allowance pressed down.

Follow the manufacturer directions and iron your fusible interfacing onto the back side of the back main piece.

Attaching the Gusset:

Mark middle bottom of back piece and middle of both long edges of outer gusset piece.

Right sides together, ease gusset around bottom edge of back piece.  Sew using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Repeat for front main piece, attaching right sides together to other edge of gusset.

Repeat for lining pieces. Only this time, leave 4-5″ gap in one of the lining curves, to allow for turning.

Using 1/4″ allowance, baste straps, centered, on side gusset pieces. 

Final Assembly:

With the lining piece right sides out and the main, outer bag piece right sides out, slide the lining inside and align entire top edge.

Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance. Clip all edges and curves for cleaner turning.

Locate the opening you’d left in the lining.

Turn bag right-side-out through opening.

Pin and sew the opening in the lining closed, using your favorite blind or ladder stitch.

Press bag.  Topstitch around top edge if desired.

Reindeer Nose:

Align the nose at the very bottom of the front flap piece.  Top stitch the entire circle, catching the flap in your stitches and affixing the nose to the flap piece.

YOU’RE FINISHED!  DO A HAPPY DANCE!

In case you needed it, here is some inspiration for the different designs sewn up by our amazing testers!

UNICORN:

REINDEER

FOX

PLAIN

I hope you love these little cuties as much as I do.  Don’t forget to share your finished projects in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group!  Happy Holidays, friends!

2018 Holiday Freebies :: Infinity Scarf with Hidden Zipper Pocket

Happy December, friends!!  It is my pleasure to be back again this year with an entire week of goodies for you.  AND THEY ARE ALL FREE!  That’s right, you are about to embark on a five day journey of free sewing patterns and tutorials.  I’m excited to get started!

Today’s freebie is a twist on a classic infinity scarf…we added a hidden, zippered pocket to it!  It’s a perfect little space to store your phone, keys, or anything that you’d like to carry with you but don’t want to need a purse or extra hand for. It’s a super quick sew and is at the top of my gift-giving list this holiday season.

Let’s get started!

Fabric Requirements: 2 yards of knit, flannel, or a light-weight woven.

You will need:
— Main Scarf Piece: 28″ W x 72″ L (can be woven or knit. If using a knit, you may need small strips of stabilizer where you’re attaching your zipper)
— 2 pocket pieces: 9″ W x 7″ L
— 9″ Zipper **You can make the pocket bigger / smaller by adjusting the size width of your pocket pieces to match the length of your zipper.

1.) With your main fabric laying RIGHT SIDE UP, lay your zipper FACING DOWNWARDS, 5″ from the edge of your fabric, along one of the long edges.

2.) Sandwich your zipper by laying a pocket piece on top, RIGHT SIDE DOWN.

3.) Pin/clip and sew along edge, using a zipper foot to get as close to zipper as you can.

4.) Flip your pocket piece up and away from the main fabric.

5.) Fold your pocket piece under the main fabric (their wrong sides should be touching now).

6.) Fold main fabric together, matching the long sides to each other.

7.) Making sure you’re still 5″ from the short edge, align the unsewn side of the zipper to the opposite long edge of your fabric. Once again, your zipper should be FACE DOWN.

8.) Sandwich your zipper by laying your other pocket piece on top, RIGHT SIDE DOWN.

9.) Pin/clip and sew along edge.

10.) For easier sewing on the next step, I like to unzip my zipper a bit, to get the pull out of the way.

11.) With fabric still RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew with 1/2″ seam allowance along long edges, and outer edges of pocket.

12.) This step might feel a little tricky, but it’s really not! You’re going to want to keep your fabric inside out, while folding it in half to still have right sides together, and the short edges meeting each other. I find it easiest to stick my arm all the way inside, grabbing the opposite short end, and then pulling it toward me from the inside, being careful not to twist it. Align the short edges to each other.

13.) Stitch the raw edges together with 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 4-5″ opening for turning.

14.) Turn scarf right side out, pulling the entirety of the fabric through the opening you created in the last step.

15.) Pin and close up the opening with a blind stitch. You’re finished!

Here’s a little inspiration from our fabulous group of testers, in case you needed it.

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Infinity Scarf that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Holidays, friends!

**Since there was such a high amount of requests for a video tutorial, here you go!

SOS Knit Pants :: Pattern Release + Update!

Quite possibly the most requested “can I get this in an A0 format” request that we get from you all is about the SOS Pants.  And we are always answering with “it’s on our list”.  Well guess who just crossed this off of their to-do list?!?!

We have officially updated the SOS Knit Pants pattern.  And then we took it one step further and made a girls version to match it.  If raising the roof was still considered cool, we’d totally be doing it right now.

Before we get started: If you already own a copy of the original SOS women’s pattern, you will NOT need to re-purchase to get the updates.  If you bought here (PatternsforPirates.com) or on the Craftsy store, you will simply need to sign into your account and re-download the file.  If your purchase was via Etsy, email [email protected] (WITH PROOF OF PURCHASE) and you will get an updated file.  It’s as easy as that!

Did you know that SOS stands for “Skinny or Straight”?  That’s because it’s a pant pattern that can be made into your favorite skinnies OR straight legged bottoms!

This intermediate pattern has all the style you need in a knit skinny and straight leg option! Drafted for knit (stretch) fabrics, these pants are fitted through hip/booty. Skinny leg option is fitted throughout leg to ankle. Straight leg option is fitted through hip/booty, then loose/straight through leg for a flattering and dressier option.  Both options include knit/enclosed elastic waistband, back yokes, front and back pocket options.  Make skinnies for the weekends and the straight leg for work – all while being so comfortable in knit/stretch fabric!

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself / your little one for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And, as with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.

SKINNY

STRAIGHT

BACK YOKE

Are you ready to make your soon-to-be favorite pair of pants?  Grab your patterns now!

SOS PANTS – YOUTH | SOS PANTS – WOMEN’S | SOS KNIT PANTS BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group! Women’s Album / Youth Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Monday, November 19, 2018 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

SOS Knit Pants -easy hacks

Not only did the SOS Knit Pants get a facelift but we also released the mini version and added a few easy hacks. Here are some of the P4P team’s favorite mods you can do to get even more looks.

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Moto Hack

 

The SOS Knit Pants have been around awhile and there seems to be a never-ending request for a Moto style option.  With the revamp of the original pattern, we thought, what better time to take the Moto for a spin.  Rather than trying to make you figure out the pieces on your own, we decided to provide a full step by step tutorial, including pattern pieces…for FREE!  You can “purchase” the Moto Hack HERE.   These are definitely not a “quick-sew”, so be prepared to spend some time stitching all those pin-tucks, but seriously… how amazing are the final results!  (This is for the women’s version only at this time but don’t worry…we plan on releasing the same hack for the girls’ soon!)

 

 

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Contour Waistband

Admit it, you’ve been thinking about using the Peg Legs contour waistband that’s included in the free Add-On with all our pants patterns, haven’t you? Well, I have, so I wanted to show you how easy it is to replace the SOS elastic waistband with the contour one.

Cut your SOS Knit Pants fabric pieces without the elastic and the knit waistband. Print and cut the contour waistband included in the Peg Legs Add-On. Sew the knit pants and the contour waistband as instructed in their respective tutorials.

Tip: If you would like the extra tummy control you can add a layer of power mesh in between the lining and the main fabric of the contour waistband.

For my contour waistband, I used custom brushed poly so it is pretty thick. The lining is the same fabric so I did not add any power mesh.

Attach the contour waistband to the SOS pants the same way you would attach it to the Peg Legs.

Tadah! All done. All you have left to do now is enjoy your new contour waistband SOS knit pants.

Note: please note that the rise on the contour waistband SOS will finish a little higher than the original pattern.

…..

Shorts

SOS Knit Shorts is one of the most popular requests and probably one of the easiest modifications.  Determine your desired inseam and preferred hem allowance.  I chose to keep the 1″ hem (1/2″ folded twice) as shown in the pattern and a  5″ inseam.

Measure the length of your inseam, starting 1/2″ from the pattern line (for seam allowance) to your desired length.  Draw a horizontal line across the leg for both front and back.  Now that you have adjusted your inseam length we will make our hem gauge for the hem. Cutting the outward notch will allow the hem to lay flat once folded.  The angle of the gauge should be a mirror image of the seam just above it so that when its turned under it will lay flush.  Again, my hem allowance is 1″, if you choose to do a narrower or wider hem, you will want to make your hem gauge to match the same length of your hem allowance. This is super easy and can be done both skinny and straight leg options.  Now, you can customize your pants to any shorts length!

 

 

 

…..

Button/Snap Waistband

 

 

Most of the time, everyone raves about a “jean” with an elastic waistband that was accomplished with the SOS… I mean, other than leggings or sweats, what could possibly be more comfortable and look like real pants?  With a few simple steps, we’re going to transform the SOS to mimic real pants with a semi-functional waistband to give you an even more RTW jean/pant look!

 

First, add 1″ to the waistband and elastic measurements.  You’ll need that little extra so that the waistband overlaps one another.  Construct you pants as instructed in the tutorial except as follows:

…..

Zipper Accents

The SOS just screamed for a zipper detail so I made myself a pair using some pretty decorative lace zippers. Here’s how to achieve this look.

Print and cut the SOS knit pants pattern pieces and grab two lace zippers. I used 9″ ones. I did cut a calf length instead of the pattern’s ankle length because I had a remanent of this grey athletic fabric that I really, really wanted to use. It’s very easy to make 3/4 length SOS pants…just cut both the front and the back leg at the calf marking instead.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk, mark the top of the zipper on both the front and back side seam.

We will now be changing the construction of the pants a little. Sew the pockets and crotch curves as instructed in the tutorial. Sew the inseam next. Hem your SOS pants using a coverstitch or twin needles.

Now that the inseam and hem are done, you will sew the side seams. Using your serger or a stretch stitch sew the side seam, front and back, right sides together and STOP AT THE MARKED POINT. Using a basting stitch, sew from the marked point to the hem.

Place your zipper on the right side of the pants and pin pit n place. It is important to have the zipper teeth on the side seam.

Remove the basting stitches to make it easier to sew the zipper in place.

Using a zipper foot and a straight stitch, sew the zipper on, making sure you fold the lace under the hem.

All done! Now go to Pinterest for some more zipper skinnies inspiration, order yourself some lace zippers and get creating!

 

How’s that for more options? We hope you love the hacks as much as we do.  Sew up a pair of SOS Knit Pants using one of our hacks?  Be sure to share in the Facebook Group or tag us on Instagram (@patternsforpirates).

 

Alex, Katy & Nicole

Tulip Tee Easy Hacks + 100k Sale-A-Bration Day 6!

The Tiny Tulip and the Tulip Tee are not only free but also packed with options. Well that didn’t stop the P4P blog contributors team to show you some easy hacks that will give you even more looks.

…..

Ruffle on girls tee

Adding a ruffle is so easy and gives such a cute look! The tulip is a long hemline to add one, so keep that in mind when picking how wide and gathered you’re making it.  I choose to make mine just one layer (not folded) with a raw edge so keep it from being heavier on her. I also wish I would’ve not gathered the under tulip section in hindsight! So, learn from me and do the top section that hides under not gathered 🙂 to keep it flatter underneath and lighter as well.

I quickly measured my hemline and doubled, plus a bit extra for wiggle room.  I cut a few strips to that length and the width I wanted. Another thing to think about is how wide the ruffle will be on the shoulder (you don’t want it wider than the shoulder piece once attached).  Mine is about 2″ finished.

Seam the strips together and gather using your favorite gathering method.  If you need more guidance in gathering here is our blog post with a few ways we like to gather: www.patternsforpirates.com/easy-gathering-methods .  I used my serger to gather this time.

With right sides together, pin the ruffle to the hemline of the shirt. This is where I would advice to pull the ruffle flat along the top edge of one tulip piece so that it is flat on the under layer instead of completely ruffled like mine.

Stitch on.  You can top-stitch if you prefer; I didn’t only to keep from adding anymore weight to the top since I was using a light weight rayon spandex.

Complete the shirt as the tutorial instructs.  Take some cute pictures!

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Banded tulip option

We know some of you are not be fans of hemming 😉 so I wanted to show you how easy it is to add a band to the Tulip Tee. Simply sew the side seams as instructed and then measure the bottom raw edge.

It is easier to fold the shirt along the back fold and measure as shown below then multiply by two.

You will cut the band 2″ by the length of the raw edge. For sizes 4T and smaller you may get away with only one band out of the width of fabric. For bigger sizes, including the women ones you will need to cut the 2-3 band pieces. You can either cut two pieces plus seam allowance and have a seam on the center back or you can cut 3 band pieces, 2″ by the length of the tulip raw edge and one 2″ the length of the back bottom raw edge.

Fold the band length wise, wrong sides together and press. Pin in place the band along the raw edge of the tulip and back bottom. Sew or serge in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Optionally top stitch. Press and steam iron and continue sewing as per the tutorial.

All done! Super easy, right? Please note that this method will yield a shirt that is 1/2″ longer than the original length.

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Bands on short sleeves

Hate hemming?  Then this hack is for you!  Adding bands instead of hemming is a great alternative way to finish raw edges.  If you’ve sewn other shirts you’ve likely done this technique before; it’s very easy to calculate on your own.

 

You’re done!  No hemming needed. 🙂

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Faux cami layer

Love the look of wearing a camisole under your tulip tee but don’t want to wear and another layer? Adding a faux cami to the tulip back option is an easy hack that offers a little more coverage and takes only a few quick minutes.


For this easy hack you will need to cut both the two tulip back pieces and a plain back piece. Begin by taking the plain back piece and pressing raw edge of bottom hem 1/2” up to wrong side. Hem.

With right sides together, place one tulip bodice on the plain bodice. Pin or clip in place. Repeat with opposite side tulip bodice. Place the plain back piece right side down on top of the front/tulip pieces, matching side seams.

Pin or clip in place. Stitch side seams and then continue on finishing your top as instructed in the pattern tutorial. That’s the whole hack, simple as that!

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Tank

 

 

With a couple of small modifications, you can turn the Tulip Tee in to a Tank.

 

Using the tulip crossover piece as a guide for the shoulder width, mark and draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dolman sleeve opening and then draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the dolman sleeve opening to your previously drawn line (shown in red).  Next, using a french curve, draw the armscye from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the dolman sleeve, but stopping at the side seam to remove the “wing” of the dolman. (shown in blue).   Sew up your top as per the tutorial.  To finish the armholes, I chose to hem 1/2″.  This will give you a more open and lower armhole.  If you prefer to band them, use the same method Elisabeth did above, when adding bands to the short sleeve. (Armband = 2″ by .085 of the opening +1″ seam allowance).

 

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Tulip Cowl 

We all love a cozy sweater and I couldn’t resist replicating this boutique style top that has been circulating the sewing groups lately. Our Tulip Tee and Tiny Tee were the perfect base. For the Cowl piece I used our Raglan Add-On Cowl and Jolly Roger Add-On Cowl pieces.  I did not make any changes here for the size Large or Size 4 youth, but just throwing caution in the wind, check your pieces so that the neckline of the Tulip body and the cowl equal one another before cutting in to your beloved sweater knits.  I did not check each size to confirm they all fit exactly.

Sew up both the tulip top and Cowl pieces as instructed in their respective tutorials.

Women’s Tab Piece: 11″ x 3″

Youth Tab Piece: 7″ x 3″ (Note: I made a size 4, so you may need to adjust the length of the tab. Subtract 1″ from the height of the cowl pattern piece to determine the length.  You can adjust it longer or shorter depending how tight you want the tab around the cowl)

Tadah!

 

If you love our Tulip Hacks as much as we do, be sure to hop on over to our Facebook Group and share with us!

 

 

FREE Tiny Tulip Tee Pattern + 100k Sale-A-Bration Day 4!

Welcome back to our fourth day of the 100K Sale-A-Bration, pirates!

In case you missed the announcement or the freebies that have been released so far, here they are!
100K Sale-A-Bration + Grand Prize Giveaway | Free Convertible Cover Pattern | Free Mom/Girl Power Cut Files 

Today is another fun one because we are giving you a FREE (!!) girl’s tee sewing pattern!  Let’s welcome the Tiny Tulip pattern to our P4P family!

The Tiny Tulip tee is a beginner knit pattern in a simple dolman style.  The tulip front and back options are so fun and on trend and it can be a perfect staple for anyone’s wardrobe!   It includes four bodice styles (tulip front, tulip back, tshirt hem and banded hem), 3 sleeve lengths (short, 3/4 and long), and covers sizes 3M – 14!  This top is a looser fitting tee.  The tulip options will give it a little more swing and feel looser than the plain option.  A fabric with good drape is recommended, for the tulip options especially, so the curves drape down to the body rather than tenting outwards.  (Favorite fabric picks would be rayon / modal / bamboo spandex blends, triblends, ITY, sweater knits, and rayon blend french terry.)  The top is a shirt length that hits toward the lower part of the booty in the back, and mid rise on the front.  It’s the perfect length for shorts, or to lengthen around an inch if you plan on pairing it with leggings.  The tulip curves hit right at the waistband of a high-rise bottom (jeans or leggings), but is easy to lengthen to your preference!

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself / your little one for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And, as with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.

Let’s take a quick peek at the options!

TULIP FRONT

TULIP BACK