Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Fierce Bra and Undies – Easy Hacks

Ahoy, pirates! In true P4P fashion we could not let the DOUBLE release happen without showing you some simple hacks for your new Fierce Undies and Bra. All these simple mods can be applied to both our adult and youth pattern.

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Undies with bands

   

I love the new Fierce Undies. They feel so amazing! But I know sometimes I prefer a knit waistband instead of elastic. So today I will be showing you how to hack a knit waistband on the Fierce Undies.

 

The first thing I did was cut and assemble the pattern according to the pattern. Then I measured the top of the undies to see how wide it is.

Now here is the formula I used to the band width: (undies width X 2)+1 X 80%. I like to use 80% because I like my band a little smaller but not too tight. Here is a picture of my measurements. 

So my finished number is 24.8. So I cut my band at 4” tall and 24.8 wide. I cut my band 4” high because I like the 2” thickness. I fold my band short ends together and sew.

Then I fold it again raw edges together.

 

Now I quarter the band and undies, then I put the band over the undies with right sides together matching the quarter marks.

Sew the band on, top stitch if desired.

Now you have a knit and Fierce undies! 

 

 

 

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Undies with picot lace

Nicole will show us how to add picot trim to the leg opening soon!

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Bra with knit biding

For this hack, we will be using knit to create a binding instead of fold over elastic (FOE). This is a a great hack to use if you don’t have any FOE on hand or if you want your binding to be a cute print or exact match of one of your fabrics.
To get started, cut out the three 2” strap pieces using the width measurements as indicated in the elastic cut chart according to your size. Optional: serge along the long edges for additional stability. Then, press all three binding pieces into 1/2” strips: Fold pieces in half, press, open back up, then bring raw edges to meet at the center crease, press, fold in half, press.
Open up your binding neckline piece, match the center point of binding (right side) to the center point of the neckline (lining side). Stretching slightly, stitch along the neckline using a stretch stitch and a 1/2” seam allowance (along the first crease).
Finger press binding and seam allowance up, then re-fold the binding in the same manner as done previously to get a 1/2″ strip. Re-fold the entire strip to form your straps and pin/clip in place. Stitch using a stretch stitch along the entire binding to close and finish the binding/straps.
Continue with pattern instructions for construction. Repeat binding steps with outside straps: be sure your binding pieces are open before stitching the ends together when getting started on the outside straps.
 
and now you have your own custom knit binding! <3
(bra pictured has elastic band attached differently than pattern)
Lacy

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Youth bra with cups

My daughter is getting to be that age that she wants just a bit more coverage and loves all her ready to wear sports bras that come with padded cups. The first thing that she asked me about the new fierce bra is if it had cups and I said no but not to worry I could add them for her.  This hack is super easy and the construction does not change at all!  Let’s get started!

First we are going to trace off our front piece, next we need to create an opening for our cups to slide into.  I used my french curve but you can certainly free hand a curve similar to what I have shown here.  I just estimated how big to make it, it does not need to be to big, you want to be able to easily slide a cup in and out of it.  Next cut away the line you drew on your piece, this will now be your lining piece. You will cut one main front and one lining from your newly created piece.

Your construction will stay exactly the same, you will just have the curves in your lining piece.  I choose not to finish the edges of my curves as I was using a really nice quality athletic fabric but you can always finish that edge with your serger or with a narrow hem on your sewing machine.  Once finished you will be able to slide in cups, I just grabbed a set from my daughters ready to wear bras but you can also buy bra cups and cut them down to fit.  My daughter is only 10 and really doesn’t need them to add any type of support she just likes the extra coverage so really any cheap cups from Amazon will do the trick and are easy to cut to size.

All done and my girl is happy to have a bra made to fit her perfectly

Angela

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Undies with lace band

Up next I wanted to show you another way to add a waistband to the Fierce Undies. Instead of the 3/4″-1.5″ waistband elastic you can use stretch lace. I used 1″ for my example but 1.5″ would work beautifully as well. Start by cutting your pattern as instructed but cut stretch lace instead of elastic.

Sew the short ends of the lace to form a loop. You may find it easier to use a piece of water soluble stabilizer between the machine’s feed dogs and the lace so as to deter your machine from trying to “eat” your fabric.

Sew the undies as instructed in the tutorial. Pin the lace at the top, overlapping 3/8″. The wrong side of the lace will be against the right side of the undies. Sew in place using a zig zag stitch of a coverstitch.

Tadah!  Done! You just added one more option to the Fierce Undies.

Judy is rocking a pair of Fierce Undies with a 2″ lace band.

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Swim suit

Last but certainly not least we want it to show you how easy it is to make  Fierce Swimsuit. You will need:

  • swim suit fabric
  • swim lining (or solid swim like I used)
  • 1″ swim elastic for the waistband and under bust band
  • 3/8″ swim elastic for the leg openings and bra straps
  • optionally power mesh and cups (I have not used them on mine)

Start by cutting you undies front and back pieces from swim, the liner from solid swim or lining. Cut the waistband 3″ by the length of the waistband elastic (from the cutting chart) plus 1″ for the seam allowance. Cut the 1″ swim elastic the length of the waistband elastic from the chart. Now cut the bra pieces, making sure that the under bust band is 3″ wide by the length of the elastic plus 1″ seam allowance. You will also need to enclose swim elastic in the bra straps so you will but binding strips that are 1.5″ wide by the length of the pattern straps pieces.

Sew the undies and side of the bra (and lining) as instructed in the tutorial. Now let’s make the waistband and the bra under bust band. Same technique…butt the ends of the elastic together and sew with a wide zig zag stitch. Overlap the band with the right sides together and sew it in a loop using 1/2″ seam allowance. Insert the elastic inside and put pins or clips at the quarter mark. Put the bands aside for now.

Hem the legs of the undies as in the pattern. The only difference will be that you will be using swim elastic for the briefs and thong, no elastic for the cheekies. Take your swim elastic and baste it to one edge of each of the bra straps.

Attach the bra straps binding as Lacy is showing you in the hack above.

All you have left to do is add the waistband and under bust band that you prepared earlier. Mark the 4 quarters of the undies waist and under bust opening. Add the respective band matching the quarter points. Sew them with your serger or a triple stretch stitch. Optionally, top stitch.

All done! You just added one more swim suit to your collection. You can use the same tips for both the youth and the adult pattern.

We hope you enjoyed these spins on the new Fierce Undies and Fierce Bra pattern. Don’t forget to share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group or tag us on Instagram @patternsforpirates.

 

Witch Hat :: Free Sewing Pattern + Tutorial!

Something wicked this way comes!

It’s officially October, which means the kickoff of my favorite holiday ever.  The candy, the pumpkin everything, the creative costumes, the decorations…..I love it all!  We wanted to help you with your costume making this year, with a super quick and easy pattern for the witches, wizards and warlocks in need of some new headgear.  And the best part about this pattern?  It’s FREE!  Our Halloween treat for you!

Before we get started, here are some things you’ll need:

  • Free Witch Hat Pattern Pieces (found in the store HERE)
  • 2/3 yard Premium Felt

**I highly recommend the thickest felt you can find, to get the ultimate stiff point and brim on your hat!  I found mine on a 72″ wide bolt at JoAnn Fabrics, which left me a lot of extra fabric to make even more hats!

Step 1: With right sides together, fold the cone piece in half — aligning along the long, straight edges.  Using 1/4″ seam allowance, sew along long edge.

Step 2: Turn cone piece right side out and set aside.

Step 3: With right sides together, align brim pieces on top of each other.

Step 4: Sew around outer edge, using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 5: For cleaner curved edges, use pinking shears trim excess fabric (making sure to not cut through your stitches).

Step 6: Turn brim right sides out.  Press.  If desired, top stitch along outer brim edge.

Step 7: Fold brim piece to mark quarter points along inner, raw circle.

Step 8: Repeat with cone piece.

Step 9: With right sides together, match the quarter points on your brim and cone pieces.

Step 10: Ease the remainder of the raw edges together, and secure with pins/clips.  Sew using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 11: Flip the brim down, press if needed, and enjoy your wicked new hat!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the amazing pointy hats that you’ve managed to make from our free pattern!

Happy Halloween, Pirate Friends!

Twist Back Top :: New Pattern Release!

Hey there Pirates!  Have we got something incredibly fun in store for you today or what??  It’s a pattern release day and we are bringing you TWO brand new patterns that you’re just going to love.  I promise.  Let’s meet the Twist Back Tops, in both adult and youth sizes!

This pattern is quick and simple sew that will impress! It has a dropped dolman sleeve style with a loose, slouchy fit throughout the sleeves and body. It is semi-fitted through high hip. The tank option makes for a great work out or summery top. The Twist Back Top also includes a short sleeve dolman sleeve you can add a bit more coverage, but still keep cool in those warmer months. You can add long sleeves and create a super fun sweater or pull over for the colder months. The extra long sleeve length will make you feel like curling up and snuggling! The adult sizing has a tank neckline that is a classic crew and a wider neckline for the dolman sleeve options. This pattern includes a back shoulder strap to keep the shoulders where they should be, or you can leave it off and have an off the shoulder style with wider neckline on the sleeved options. The open back is perfect to throw on top a leotard, sports bra, or tank.

The youth pattern covers a size range from 3M – 14.  As for the adult version of the pattern?  We just extended our sizes even more!  You’ll find it drafted for XXS – Plus 5x now!  Please check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

TANK TOP

SHORT SLEEVE

LONG SLEEVE

LONG SLEEVE W/CUFFS

OPTIONAL BACK STRAP

Should we talk about fabric choices for the Twist Back Tops?  We recommend a fabric with a good drape to it.  While fabric bases like french terry and sweatshirt fleece will work, they’ll end up a bit more “boxier”.  So if you’re looking for that perfect slouchy, twisty top…we recommend fabrics like: Rayon Spandex, Double Brushed Polyester, and Sweater Knits.

RAYON SPANDEX

DOUBLE BRUSHED POLY

SWEATER KNIT

 

Another change you might notice on these new patterns is a little surprise for our overseas pirates who use metric measurements! We now will include BOTH imperial and metric measurements to help everyone understand the charts as quick and easily as possible! Yay!

 

Ready to dive right in and make your new favorite top?  Go grab the patterns now!

TWIST BACK TOP | TWIST BACK TOP – YOUTH | TWIST BACK TOP BUNDLE

Hoping for a little inspiration before you get to sewing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group!

Twist Back Top Album | Twist Back Top – Youth Album

And if our pattern alone doesn’t provide enough options for you, we’ve also included a blog post that will help take the Twist Back Tops to the next level!  Go check out our Easy Hacks Post to see how to make some slight alterations to the original pattern, to customize it even further!

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Monday September 30th (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, Pirates!

Twist Back Top Easy Hacks

The Twist Back Top features a super fun back that inspired us to show you some easy hacks that will add some more options to the pattern. Let’ get started!

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Criss Cross Back Strap

 

Criss Cross Hack Twist Back

The new Twist Back top is so much fun to wear and style. While I love both the single strap and no strap options, adding a criss cross back strap is an easy and quick hack for another great look.

Begin by cutting and assembling your pattern according to the instructions for whichever sleeve length you choose. After your top is completely sewn together, take your Back Strap Pattern Piece and instead of cutting one, cut out two. I also like to add a little extra length here to play with while placing the straps. I added about an extra inch and a half to mine.

Sew the strap pieces and turn right sides out according to the pattern. Once you have two straps, begin placing them on your twist back top. I used the pattern’s back strap placement mark to place the top pieces of my criss-cross and moved around the straps until I liked how it looked. Be careful not to stretch your straps too much while placing, while also not having too much slack. You want the straps to lay flat while wearing. The best way to ensure the correct placement is to try on your top before sewing the straps in. I ended up moving mine around a little here and there before I was happy with the placement. In the end you can see my strap pieces are about 3 inches apart from each other.

Sew your straps in place and trim off any excess fabric. You now have a fun new criss cross back strap.

Shannon

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Bow Back

   

The Twist Back Top is already so much fun but if you want to add another little detail, I am here to show you how. Instead of the back shoulder strap, I added some ties to make a cute little bow and you can too with these simple steps!

You will start off just as the pattern instructs, with cutting your pieces. The only difference will be when it’s time to cut that back shoulder strap. You can use any length desired to make them longer or shorter but I used the included pattern piece as a guide for the youth version and it worked out perfectly.Instead of cutting one piece, I folded my fabric in half and cut two shoulder strap pieces on the fold. This gave me two pieces that were both double the size of the pattern piece. For the youth size 6, my  ties ended up being 11.5″. (I shortened them from this photo)You then fold the straps in half, with right sides together, and sew along the long edge and ONE short edge. Turn your straps right side out and press. Note that using this method, your seam will be along one edge as opposed to the middle like the original back shoulder strap. 

Find your shoulder strap marks and attach one tie to each side at the markings. Before you sew on, it is a good idea to clip or pin them in place, and check the length of your ties. Once they are sewn in place, continue on as the pattern instructs and then you will have your adorable new top!

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Banded Tank

The muscle tank look may not be for everyone and we get that so I’m going to show you how to do a super simple banded hack–it’s unbelievably easy!

Instructions:

Print, cut and assemble the pattern just like the directions advise to.

When you get to the part about hemming the armcyce, stop!

Measure the armcyce (front and back) and then multiply this number by 85%.

Cut bands from your fabric with a 2in height and whatever 85% of the armcyce is.

Add the bands to the arms and boom! You’re done!

Just that easy!

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Hemmed instead of banded

Last but not least I wanted to show how your Twist Back Top would look if you skipped the bands and simply hemmed the back and neckline. This is such an easy hack because it can be used for both tank and dolman and you do not need any new pieces.

Start by printing and cutting the pattern according to the style preference and sizes. I went with the tank option in a rayon french terry. Do not cut the two back band or the front neckline one. Mark the strap placement according to the pattern. For the mark, draw a line that is at least 3/4″ long.

Sew the shoulder seams. Press the back and neckline 1/2″. Optionally you can use pins or clips to hold it in place. For rayon french terry I found that I do not need pins along the back once pressed and steamed.

Using your coverstitch or a zig zag stitch (or twin needle) on your sewing machine hem along the pressed edge and iron it again.

All you have left to do is sew down the back strap using the markings you made earlier. I used a zig zag stitch for this step.

All done! All you have left to do is enjoy your new top and show it off.

Now that you have these additional options in your portofolio, start creating your unique Twist Back Top  and make sure to share them in the P4P Facebook group.

Hepburn Top and Dress : : New Pattern Release!!

We’re so excited to share the newest patterns in the P4P collection… the Hepburn Top and Dress will take you from summer crop to winter turtleneck dress and everything in between! All the options will have you creating a huge variety of timeless wardrobe staples.

These patterns are a slim fit silhouette great for flattering your figure and also amazing for versatility because you can tuck them in or layer easily during colder weather.  The classic details will never go out of trend including the side seam split and turtleneck options.  The simplicity of the garment means it’s a quick and easy sew while the look is very polished!  By using different fabrics and options you can come out with an athletic looking crop or a holiday party dress! The possibilities are endless <3

Drafted for a high stretch knit fabric some of our favorites were rayon ribbed knits, rayon spandex blends, poly rayon spandex blends, double brushed poly, single brushed poly, cotton lycra, athlethic spandex knits (we even used swim for a rashguard top!), and of course sweater knits!

Options include: hemmed neckline, mock turtleneck, fold over turtleneck, tank, short sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, long sleeve hemmed, long sleeve with cuff (both regular and fold over style), crop, shirt, above knee dress, and below knee/ midi dress lengths.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

HEMMED NECKLINE / MOCK TURTLENECK / FOLD OVER TURTLENECK

YOUTH— HEMMED NECKLINE / MOCK TURTLENECK / FOLD OVER TURTLENECK

CROP / SHIRT / ABOVE KNEE / MIDI LENGTH

 

YOUTH—CROP / SHIRT / ABOVE KNEE / MIDI LENGTH

TANK / SHORT SLEEVE / 3/4 SLEEVE / LONG SLEEVE (HEMMED, CUFF, FOLD OVER CUFF)

YOUTH— TANK / SHORT SLEEVE / 3/4 SLEEVE / LONG SLEEVE (HEMMED, CUFF, FOLD OVER CUFF)

SIDE SEAM SPLIT DETAIL

YOUTH— SIDE SEAM SPLIT DETAIL

 

What about a little fabric choice inspiration??  One of the most common questions when we release a new pattern is what we suggest as the best fabrics. So, here are some of our favorites during testing:

ATHLETIC KNIT AND COTTON SPANDEX

FRENCH TERRY AND JERSEY

 

RIBBED KNITS

DOUBLE BRUSHED POLY

SWEATER KNITS / WAFFLE KNITS

 

VELVET AND LACE

I can’t wait to see what varieties everyone makes!  Go grab your pattern(s) now!

HEPBURN | HEPBURN – YOUTH | HEPBURN BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group!

Hepburn Album | Hepburn -Youth Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Monday, August 19, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

 

 

Hepburn Top and Dress – Easy Hacks

The Hepburn Top & Dress has released and it will surely become a staple in your year round wardrobe. Our amazing (and growing) team of blog contributors has some easy hacks for the new pattern. Take a look and get sewing!

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Swim top/rashguard

The fit of the Turtle Neck Dress is so fantastic that modifying it to be a a rashguard is very simple!

The first thing you need to do is decide which pattern options you would like to use and gather your supplies. Swap out your sweater knit for some swim knit, and your clear elastic for swim elastic.

Cut out your pattern pieces and neckline elastic according to the tutorial. For all options, you will continue on following the tutorial until it is time to hem.

If you choose to make a cropped swim top, like I am, you may want additional swim elastic for the bottom hem. This will help keep the hem from rising up while swimming. For this option, you will want to trim half an inch from the bottom of the front and back bodice pieces.

 

I simply wrapped the elastic around my waist and cut at a comfortable length. The elastic will be attached in the same way you attach the neckline elastic for the crew neck.

All other hemming options can follow the tutorial. Now you can enjoy your new swim top!


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Zipper Workout Bra

For this hack, we will be working with the crew neck, crop, tank option. In addition to the materials listed in the pattern, you will also need: 

  • Fabric for the lining
  • Zipper that is slightly longer than the shortened crop bodice (detailed below)
  • Wash away wonder-tape (our new BFF!)
  • FOE/knit binding
  • 1” elastic
  • Soft bra cups
  • (Optional Hook & Eye Closure)

1. Assemble Bodice and Lining

2. Attach Zipper with Wonder Tape!

Find the center of the front neckline, cut straight down from top to bottom.

Place a strip of wonder tape from top to bottom along the edge of one half of the bodice. Do the same for the coordinating lining piece, peel off the paper strip.

With right sides together, place zipper along the edge of bodice.

Next, peel off paper strip on lining and place wrong side of zipper along right side of lining.

Check to be sure zipper is placed correctly, gently finger press in place. (Clip in place if needed).

Stitch 1/4’’ away from the zipper from top to bottom.

Repeat with other side. Your fully lined zipper is now attached with just two lines of stitching!! Zip up zipper, add reinforcement stitches across the bottom of the zipper, and trim the extra zipper fabric from off the top and bottom.

Finish neckline with your favorite finish. I used FOE, but you could also do a knit binding. Just be sure to fold the ends under so the edges are finished.

3. Add Bottom Band

Cut a band with the following formula (adjust length as needed): Length = 3.5” by Width = (75% of Underbust Measurement) + 1”

*Optional* Hand sew hook and eye closure at top of zipper.

And you are done!!!

   

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Picot trim

Anyone else buy tons of picot elastic thinking you are going to make all the bras and underwear? Well picot elastic can easily be used for other items and is a great finish for a necklines as well!  This is a quick easy hack and all you need that is different from the original requirements is picot elastic!

We are only going to make very minimal changes.  My picot elastic was 1/4 inch so I did not bother trimming the neckline down at all.  We are going to cut the picot the same length as what the pattern calls for for the clear elastic.

 

Now press that top stitch cause pressing is the key to a really great finished product and finish the rest of your top as instructed.  You can also use this method for the armholes if you choose but sometimes picot can be scratchy, mine was super soft but I choose to just use it for the neckline.

 

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Lettuce hem

Next up we have the lettuce hem hack. This is an easy and fast way to finish your edges with a little added style!

First off, we need to trim the hem allowances at the neckline, sleeve edges, and bottoms of both front and back pieces of the pattern to account for not using a traditional hem on these edges.

Trim 3/8″ off of the neckline.

Trim 1/2″ from the sleeve edges.

And trim 1″ from the bottoms of both the front and back bodice pieces.

Now that we’ve got our pattern pieces properly modified, cut and sew up your top as usual, using the new trimmed pattern pieces.

Next, set up your serger for a rolled hemline. Consult your serger’s manual for exactly how to do this on your machine, but in a nutshell, you will use only one needle, narrow the stitch width, decrease the length and increase the lower looper tension.

Begin with the neckline of the shirt. Sew the neckline as if you were finishing with a rolled hem, but stretch the fabric firmly before and after the presser foot. The tighter you pull, the more waves your lettuce hem will have!

Repeat on the raw edges of both sleeves and bottom hemline.

And that’s it! Now you have a beautifully finished tee with cute lettuce hems.

 

 

Caitlin

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Higher side vents

 

Let give this dress a nice higher vent to add extra sexy to it!

 Here’s how I made this little hack.

I started with cutting the mid-length version and marking the vent line for the knee length.

I continue sewing up the dress according to the instructions. 

Here is a picture to show the different vent lines. I followed the directions for the vent except I used the knee length instead of the mid length marking. 

Hope you all love this hack!!

Andrea

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Skirt

Next up we have a super easy, fun skirt hack. Nicole paired her skirt with the Sporty Piko crop but you can certainly wear it withe the cropped Hepburn top. Start by deciding where you would like the skirt to hit. Nicole is wearing a high waist style so she cut the pattern 1″ front and back pieces above the waist line. Now grab a 1″ knit elastic piece and stretch it around your waist (or high hip, depending on your skirt preference). Cut the elastic based on your waist and comfort. Sew the side seams and hem the bottom of the skirt following the tutorial instruction.

Using your serger or a zig zag stitch attach the elastic to the waist.

That’s it! All you have left to do now is enjoy your new skirt.