Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Sunflower and Busy Bee Easy Hacks

It’s swimsuit season! The new Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms are the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. Dana is showing you below how to make a longer ruffle while Rachel is taking the Sunflower Top and making is shorter. Enjoy these cute easy hacks! 

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Longer Ruffle

This is a really easy hack if you want a little extra tummy coverage or just want the look of a longer ruffle. 

Cut out all your pattern pieces as usual but when you come to the ruffle you will cut it a little differently. First of all you will want to decide how wide you want your ruffle to be.

I measured the original piece which is 2 inches wide and I decided that I wanted to increase this to 5 inches wide.

I simply laid my perspex quilting ruler out over the pattern piece and used it to help cut out the original length and the increased width. 

Here is my finished ruffle.  Measuring 5 inches wide, in comparison to the original pattern piece.

Then just sew it together as usual. Easy peasy! 

Happy sewing! Love, Dana x

 

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Shorter Top

Forget the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-yellow-polka-dot bikini… bananas are so much more fun!

Here’s how you modify the pattern for Sunflower Swim Top if you’d like to sport a shorter length. You’ll be modifying the pattern pieces, but the actual construction of the top will follow the pattern instructions as written.

You’ll need the front and back pattern pieces and the shelf bra pattern piece.

With both the front and the back pieces, it is most important to preserve the curves at the bottom of the pieces. You’ll see how I did that in the pictures provided.

Cut the back piece into thirds as indicated in the photo below. You’ll be discarding the center piece.

Take the top and bottom thirds and line up the bottoms of the cut-out curve, where you see the green line in the pic. Tape together. I added a little snipe of paper, where the green circle is, to help visually with cutting my fabric.

And that completes your new back pattern piece.

Line up your front and back pattern pieces and mark the bottom of the back piece on your front piece. This will ensure that your front and back pieces line up when you’re constructing the top.

Place your shelf bra pattern piece on top of your front pattern piece and line up the “fold” edges. The left edge of the shelf bra piece should intersect the mark you made on the previous step.

Trace the bottom edge of the shelf bra and cut along this line to create your new front piece.

Once you have your pattern pieces ready, construct your top with the instructions provided. You can even work in a shelf bra at this length if you desire.

Isn’t sewing for yourself so much fun? I can’t wait to rock these bananas at the pool!

 

Rachel

Which one of these hacks will you try first? As always, post your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group so we all get a chance to admire them. 

Runabout Romper – easy hacks

It’s here! It’s here! The Runabout Romper and Dress patterns (adult and youth) and jam packed with option but we couldn’t let this release pass without adding a few more. The P4P bloggers will show you how to make separate pieces, paperbag shorts, looser pants, slimmer shorts, button front and tunic length. Let’s take a look! 

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Separates 

 

I absolutely fell in love with the off the shoulder neckline of the  Runabout Romper but wanted it in shirt form for non-romper days.  So, of course, an easy hack was needed and I now have the coziest sweatshirt ever.   It’s so easy to do!   First, start by printing just your top pieces, putting together, and cutting them out. 

Now you are going to want to turn them into full-length top pieces.   To do this, first- add a few blank pieces to the bottom of your pattern piece lined up along your fold line. 

Then go ahead and grab your favorite p4p top that has the length you want, I chose the banded sporty piko.   Alternatively, you can measure from your natural waist to where you’d like it to hit (don’t forget to take in account the seam allowance built in the waist).  

Lay the top of your chosen pattern piece on top of your romper top piece lining up your shoulder and the side seam (your actual widths may be different).  

Make sure your pieces are straight and trace the bottom of your piece to get the length you want for your top and up the side of your piece. Repeat with the other piece and cut out along where you traced and you’ll have two new full-length shirt pieces. 

Sew together as directed by the pattern and either hem your top or if you are banding your shirt you’ll simply measure the bottom of your new top all the way around and multiply that by .85 plus seam allowance to get the width of your new band.  I can’t wait to see your cozy shirts!! 

Happy Sewing, 

Michelle

 

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Paperbag Shorts

 

I absolutely love the paperbag waist trend that is so popular right now! The cinching is universally flattering for all figures.

Once you’ve mastered the Runabout Romper waistband, you can easily turn the pattern bottoms into pants or shorts with this cute ruffle feature. And I’m here to show you how to do it!

Start by cutting the bottom pieces to your preferred length. I’ve decided to make shorts for this tutorial.

Sew the pants or shorts pieces together per the pattern instructions.

Now for your waistband…

Add an inch in height when you cut your waistband pieces… instead of 2” tall waistband pieces, yours will be 3” tall.

If installing grommets, you will mark your fabric and add those to your outer waistband where indicated by the pattern piece.

Next, take your inner waistband piece and stitch with right sides together, stopping 1” above the bottom of the band. Press the seams to one side.

This opening will become your entry point when you install your elastic waistband.

Stitch your inner and outer waistband pieces, right sides together, along the top edge per the pattern instructions.

Open with right sides out, wrong sides together, and press your top seam to the inside. You may wish to topstitch this edge for a crisper finish.

Sew a second seam 1” down from the top edge.

Sew your waistband to your shorts or pants per the pattern instructions and complete your bottoms accordingly. Enjoy!!!

I’ve paired my shorts here with a Hepburn top. Cute, cute, cute!!

 

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Tunic/top 

 

Hi, I’m going to show you how easy it is to make the new Runabout Romper as a tunic/top instead of a dress. 

First of all you will want to decide how long you want to have the skirt portion, as this is going to determine how long your top is. You could make the bodice first and attach the waistband onto it (just safety pin your elastic together to try on) and measure how far you would like the front of your top to come down, or you could just be brave and guestimate. 

 In this picture you can see I’m wearing my Runabout Romper dress, which was perfect because I could use the waistband on it to help gauge how long I wanted the top to be.  There are two ways to make your top, either with a straight hem or keeping the curve of the dress hem. I chose to keep the curve. Hold the front skirt pattern piece up to your body and make a mark when it’s at the right height, don’t forget you’ll need to add a combined 1 1/2″ for the seam allowance at the waist and the hem allowance.

Using the mark I just made on the paper at the fold line, I then measure and make the same mark at the other side of the pattern piece at the outside seam line and rule a line across. For me, this mark was 10 inches down from the top edge of the pattern piece. Then repeat for the back piece. Fold the top of both pieces down (you might need to flip a corner out of the way by the curved hem edge) and you have your new top length pattern pieces. 

If you want a straight hem to your top, you  just have to fold the bottom of the pattern piece up to get rid of the curve, rather than the top of the pattern piece down to keep the curve.

Cut your fabric out using your new pattern pieces and construct as per the Tutorial. 

Enjoy!

Dana xx

 

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Slimmer fit shorts

 

The jogger shorts are some of my favorite shorts. They’re fitted but not too fitted–they have the perfect amount of ease in my humble opinion and as we enter the hot summer, they were screaming to be added to this romper! It’s such a super easy hack that you’ll be cranking out Runabout Jogger Short Rompers super fast. 

Let’s get into it!

  1. Print out your bodice option and the jogger patterns. 
  2. Decide what you’d like your inseam to be and add .5 in for the seam allowance. I did a 4″ inseam here so I measured out 4.5″ from the crotch curve. Draw a line from the inseam to the outseam. Do this on both the front and back pieces.
  3. Cut the new pattern piece.
  4. Assemble per the instructions. 
  5. Enjoy your super cute and cool new romper!

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Straight pants

 

I absolutely love the look of a wide-leg jumpsuit, and this hack gives me exactly the look I’ve been looking for! 

First off, we need to make our new pant leg pattern pieces using the existing front and back shorts pieces. I laid mine on top of the jogger legs as a guide for length. Using a straight edge and marker, I drew a straight line down from either side of the shorts pieces, ending 3 1/2” below where the jogger piece ended (this is to account for the added length of the jogger cuff). After doing this for both front and back pieces, you now are ready to cut out your new wide-legged pants!

Sew up the romper as directed, hemming pant legs 1”. Now take a step back and admire your new trendy jumpsuit!                                                                                                                                                     

                                                                                                                  

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Faux buttons placket

 

Inspired once again by Pintrest and a photo Katy showed me, I made myself a faux button up Runabout romper. Want to see how I did it? Keep reading! 

I cut the pieces exactly as in the pattern, except for the front bodice. The front bodice will not be cut on fold but will be two mirrored images. Using a ruler, add 1.5″ extra width to the center of the front bodice. Cut two mirror images!

If you are using a projector, like I am, simply place a ruler along the fold line to measure the 1.5″. Cut along the ruler for the center bodice. 

Turn the two bodice pieces wrong side up and fold 1/2″ along the center, press. Fold again another half an inch and press again. If you are adding faux buttons like I am, you don’t really need interfacing. If you plan on adding real buttons and make buttonholes, or add snaps then you should add a 1/2″ wide strip of interfacing along both sides of the front bodice. 

Sew the folded hems down with a scant 1/2″ seam allowance. 

Time to make the neckband. Fold it in half width wise and then again length wise. Curve the raw edge as shown below. You will now have a long necknand, Henley style. Fold it again along the length and press. 

 

Overlap the center fold of the bodice 1/2″ and pin it in place. You will now treat that piece as the front bodice from the pattern. Sew the dress or romper as in the tutorial. Pin the neckband starting with back center and working your way to the two fronts. Sew in place with 1/2″ seam allowance using a stretch stitch or your serger.  

Now it’s the time to decide if you want a real button up or just the look of one. The buttons do not need to be functional, they can be there just for looks. I have sewn the buttons through all layers about 1.5″ away from each other. The top button is only attached to one side, just a personal style preference. Super easy! If you would like functional closures you will sew buttons on one side and button holes on the other. 

All done!! Time to enjoy your new romper! 

Hope you enjoyed these easy mods to the Runabout pattern as much as we enjoyed making them for you. Don’t forget to show off your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group or #p4p on Instagram so we can admire them too. 

Classic Sports Bra – Easy Hacks

The newest P4P pattern is a must have for work out aficionados and not only! So many options are already included but you know us, we have to add just a few more to our easy hack blog. This time, the P4P blog team will show you how to make the Classic Sports Bra with a solid front, an exposed elastic and without a clasp but still having the cut out. Let’s get started!

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Solid Front

 

 

One of my favorite attributes of the Classic Sports Bra is the colorblocked front. But let’s say you have a favorite panel or fabric that you want to show off and you rather not have 3 front pieces…create your own “one piece solid front.

 

 

Overlap the three front pieces 3/8″ as show above. The overlap will be 3/4″ – the total of the two seam allowances. Scotch tape the 3 pieces together or trace them to create a new one. Now that you created a new pattern piece, simply cut it from your main fabric and proceed to cutting all the other pieces of the pattern (back, linings, band, elastic).

Sew the bra as instructed in the tutorial and enjoy your brand new creation. Easy peasy!

For my solid front Classic Sports Bra I used cotton lycra for both the main and the lining. It makes the most comfortable lounging bra ever!!!

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Exposed Elastic

Sometimes you find cute or extra special elastic and you want to show it off! It’s a super easy modification to stitch on the elastic without the knit band so it is exposed.  If you have the Fierce Bra you can follow those instructions.  Just make sure if you’re using a hook and eye bra closure option that your elastic width coordinates perfectly with your clasp size.

I had ordered this navy elastic with silicone stripes on the underside to help it stay in place and have been wanting to try it out on a sports bra…so here was a great opportunity!  You can also find elastic with prints or words on them as well.

Sew up your bra exactly as you would until the underbust band steps.

Mark your center front of your sports bra and your center of your elastic.

Pin your elastic onto the sports bra with the top edge of the elastic 3/8″ away from the sports bra’s bottom raw edge. (Tip- I like to baste my sports bra around the bottom edge 3/8″ away so I have a clear marking to follow).  You do not need to stretch either the elastic or the sports bra at all.

Stitch the elastic in place using your favorite high stretch stitch (mine is a triple step zigzag).

If you’re using the hook and eye bra closure option attach bra clasps just the same as the tutorial.

Now enjoy!

Judy

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No Clasp, Cut Out Back

 

To create a sports bra that has the keyhole back detail, but without the bra closure, you’ll need to make one small change when cutting your pieces, and a few minor adjustments when sewing on the band.  When cutting out your pieces, you can go ahead and cut out all the front and back pieces from the main and lining as you normally would, but then you’ll need to create a new bottom band piece for the elastic casing.  The new band piece you will be using for this hack needs to be the WIDTH of the full back option band, and the LENGTH of the bra closure option band.  You can either mash the two pattern pieces together, or simply use the measurements from the cut chart. I find using the cut chart quicker and easier than mashing the two pattern pieces.  Again, make sure you use the WIDTH of the Full back piece, and the LENGTH of the bra closure piece. For the elastic, make sure you cut the elastic itself the width of the full back option as well.

After cutting, you will assemble the sports bra according to the pattern up until the point of attaching the band.  For this hack, you will take your band piece, and fold it right sides together lining up the short ends, and sew together.  I prefer to use my sewing machine so I can press the seam open and reduce bulk here.

Your band should be the same width as the bottom of the sports bra.  Using the seam as the back center point, quarter the band and mark the front center and sides.  Match up these points on the bra and mark them as well.  I also like to mark the outsides of the cutout to make sure the band gets even attached.

Slide your band inside your bra, lining up the RIGHT SIDE of the band against the lining.

 

Sew or serge your band onto the bra, sewing all the way around even across the opening to give a nice edge for folding the binding there.  After it has been sewn on, pull the band down and press seam allowance down as well.

Go ahead and stitch your elastic closed in a loop, by overlapping the ends and zigzagging to secure together.  The elastic should also be the same width as the band.  Slide the elastic up over the band.

 You will then need to fold the bottom ¼” of your band up and press flat, and then fold up and over the elastic encasing the elastic. 

 Pin (and/or clip) the band all the way around the bra, making sure you have fully covered the seam allowance. 

Edge stitch all the way around, then put that comfy, cute bra on and ROCK IT! 

Happy Sewing!

Jody

Now that you have seen how easy it is to get 3 more options for the Classic Sports Bra, go sew yourself or your little one, one! 🙂 We would love to see your creations so share them in our P4P Facebook group too or hash tag #patternsforpirates on Instagram.

 

Flutter Wrap SAL day 1

Welcome to our Flutter Wrap Sew Along!

Day One is reserved to purchasing the pattern, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Flutter Wrap here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Flutter Wrap Youth can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle. If you can’t decide which style to make, our Round Up blog will give you a glance at all options included with the pattern.

This sew along will be held in the the M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the Flutter Wrap patterns but also to post your progress this week. Don’t be shy about asking questions or suggestions, we are a helpful bunch. 🙂

Now that you purchased the pattern(s), print the size needed. In order to do that it is very important that you take your most accurate measurements. You will need your waist, hips and chest measurements in order to choose the correct Flutter Wrap size. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

You can see in the video below how I blend two sizes to make my Flutter Wrap knee length with flounce a flutter sleeves. Once you cut your pattern pieces post “done” in the comments of day 1 photo of the Flutter Wrap Sew Along album in the SAL group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this comment will count as your daily check in.

 

Flutter Wrap SAL day 1 | Print and cut pattern

Flutter Wrap SAL day 2 | Cut fabric

Flutter Wrap SAL day 3 | Sew back, shoulder and side seams

Flutter Wrap SAL day 4 | Sew sleeves or tank binding

Flutter Wrap SAL day 5 | Add neckline binding and waist ties

Flutter Wrap SAL day 6 | Finish skirt

Flutter Wrap SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

 

Flutter Wrap – Easy Hacks

Bring on spring!! You have to admit that our latest release, the Flutter Wrap Dress is giving us all the spring and sunny vibes! I am so excited to share with you some easy hacks that the P4P blog team has prepared. Whether you like a thicker belt, neckbands or a split flutter sleeve, we have them all!

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Thicker belt/ties

Adding thicker ties to the wrap dress can be a cute variation to make them a feature of your sew.

Firstly, grab your pattern pieces for the waist ties. Measure the length of the short width and then double it. For example: if your ties measure 2 inches wide, then you need to cut them at 4 inches wide instead.

I like to remake my pattern pieces with the new measurements to make it quicker for cutting the ties out, but you could just as easily note the measurements and use a ruler and cutting tool to make your tie pieces too. Take your fabric and cut wider ties – one short and one long. Sew them as per instructions starting on page 17 in the pattern.

Next step is to sew a gathering stitch across the open end of the ties to reduce the width of the ties by half. Attach the ties as per the pattern instructions.

Happy sewing!

xx Katy

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Hemmed maxi flounce option

The wrap dress is gorgeous with the flounce option. However, I stumbled upon another beautiful way to finish the maxi length hem without the flounce or a straight hem line. All I did was cut my fabric using the flounce hem line then I sewed the hem with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

The curve can be a little tricky. I recommend that you use a metal curved hem ruler, press your hem, and then clip it. If you don’t have a metal curved ruler, I suggest wash away hem tape. Either will give you a beautiful finish.

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Split flutter sleeves

For this hack, we are going to split the flutter sleeves for a fun and cute way to add a little extra detail to your flutter sleeves!

First, you will cut straight down the middle of the flutter sleeve pattern piece, then cut out your sleeve pieces. You will have four sleeve pieces instead of two. Begin constructing the garment as instructed, including the seam that is sewn to join the edges of the sleeve piece together.  

Next, lay the bodice face up with right sides out, place the sleeve piece on top with right sides together and match the top of the sleeve seam with the top of the bodice side seam. Pin in place all along the armscye, and butt the ends together once you get to the top shoulder seam. You may want to baste here where the edges meet together to prevent them from shifting around while sewing. Then stitch.

Press the armscye seam towards the shoulder seam, and repeat with the other side. Then construct the rest of the garment as indicated in the pattern. 🙂

Neckband

 

We’re going to show you how easy it is to replace the french binding on the gorgeous new Flutter Wrap Dress with a neckband.  Sometimes you may want a little extra coverage if you are planning on wearing the dress to work or if you are just quite large-busted, like me. It’s really easy to do and I hope you’ll love the results.

First of all you need to construct your dress as usual but do not cut out the ‘neck binding’ piece as we won’t be using it, however do remember to leave yourself a suitable piece of fabric to cut the neckband from later!  Follow the tutorial and stop when you reach the ‘finishing the neckline’ section. If you plan to add the flounce to the neckline along with the neckband then go ahead and follow the steps in the tutorial that show how to construct the neckline flounce and baste it into place.  In the example below I am not using a neckline flounce, to make it a little clearer for you.

 

 

You will need to measure the length of your unfinished neckline by measuring up the front of one bodice piece, along the top of the neck and down the other bodice piece.   The easiest way to do this is to fold the dress in half, matching the centre back and the ends of the two bodice pieces. I like to pop a few sewing clips on to hold it in place.

 

 

 

 My measurement from centre back to the end of the bodice is 28 inches.  Then I simply double this to find the entire neckline measurement: 28 X 2 = 56 inches. Then I take my 56 and multiply it by 90% to reach 50.4 (which I will round up to 50.5 inches).  This is the measurement I will use for the length of my neckband. The width of your neckband will depend on personal choice but I will use 3 inches, as once the neckband is attached with a ½ inch seam allowance I’ll be left with a 1 inch band width.  So my measurement is 3 X 50.5 inches, with the stretch going along the length of the band. Here is my band after cutting.

 

 

Then I attached my neckband as normal. Fold the fabric wrong sides together along the length.  Then find the middle of the band and mark with a pin or clip.

 

 

 

Attach the middle of the band, right sides together and raw edges up with the centre of the back bodice piece (it’s already marked by the centre seam).  Then you will need to stretch the band to fit the neckline up to the shoulder seams about the amount you would normally stretch a neckband to fit. I have included some photos for reference.

     

 

 

Next you clip the end of the neckband to the end of the bodice on the left side, and ease the neckband to the bodice front along its length.  You will need to slightly stretch the neckband to fit along the bodice length.  

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat for the other side of the bodice. Sew the neckband in place using a ½ inch seam allowance.  Flip the neckband up, press the seam allowance down and topstitch if desired.

 

 

 

 

You’re all done!

 

 

 

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Snap to Keep Neckline in Place

Sometimes when you have babies being held and tugging at you a true wrap top/dress can be risky if they pull the wrong way! Adding a quick and easy sew on snap right at the cross over of your vneckline is a super simple solution.  First grab some sew on snaps from your local craft shop or favorite online crafty retailer:

 

Try on your Flutter Wrap and mark with your favorite marking tool where you want your snaps.  I like to mark both sides exactly where I want each snap to make sure they’re nice and even.

 

 

Hand sew each snap on- I’m not a big hand sewing fan, but these only take a minute!

 

Enjoy your wrap stress free from moving around and exposing more then you want!

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Snaps instead of ties

 

Last but not least I wanted to show you how to replace the ties for the witty bitty flutter wrap dresses and tops. Some may find it easier to snap the outfit instead of tying it. For my example I used the knee length flutter sleeve option but this hack can be done to any of the styles. Let’s get started!

Cut the fabric pieces but skip the two ties (the long and the shorter one)! Using an erasable pen or tailor tack, make a mark 3/4″ away from the raw edge, between the two notches. See image below.

Sew the shoulder seam and add binding. I will show you now how to create a faux wrap with only one set of snaps. If you prefer a real wrap with two sets of snaps, scroll to the end of the blog. Place the dress front and back right sides together as shown below. Sew all 3 layers together on one of the side seams but only two layers (the ones that match at the arm opening) on the other side.

Hem the side of the overlapping piece as in the original pattern. You will now add two 3/4″x3/4″ of stabilizer to where the snaps will be placed. Use the initial marking points as a guide for the snaps.

Add the male snap to the wrap and the female snap to the other side. All done! The wrap dress look without the “hassle” of the ties.

As promised above, here is how to keep the wrap but still add snaps. Place the front and back of the dress right sides together as shown above and sew together the two layers ONLY on both sides, matching the armpit and bottom. Add snaps on both sides using the markings you did. Super duper easy!

 

Will you be sewing the first Flutter Wrap for you or for your little one? Regardless of your pick, we hope you will show it off in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and hash tag it on Instagram so we can admire it too!

Oversized Sweater :: Easy Hacks

It’s here! It’s here! The comfiest, snuggliest, coziest sweater you will ever have. The Oversized Sweater includes so many options for both youth and adult but we couldn’t help ourselves…we wanted more! The P4P blog team is showing you how to make an Off the shoulder sweater, a mini dress, a color blocked one, the cutest pom poms hack ever and a higher side slit one. Enjoy!

 

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Off the shoulder

Off-the-shoulder shirts are my jam. I still remember falling all the way in love with the first one I saw Alex do for the Relaxed Raglan. This Oversized Sweater is the PERFECT top to hack into your favorite Pinteresty slouchy off-the-shoulder sweater. And it’s pretty easy! Grab your fabric and pattern pieces–let’s get started!

Layer your front, back and sleeve pieces on top of each other.

Measure down 1/2 inch.

Draw a line. This is going to be your new cut line.

Cut out your pieces.

**Tip: Place a clip on the front of the sweater to differentiate your pieces.

Sew your sleeves on first. They aren’t going to be sewn all the way up so remember that. You’re going to sew them on similarly to how raglan sleeves are done. They’ll look like this:

Once the sleeves have been attached to both the front and back pieces, it’ll look like this.

Cut a neckband 3 inches in width by 85% of your measurement of your shoulders (with shoulders down, measure around your body). Add the neckband.

Finish assembly as instructed in the tutorial and then rock the hell out of it!

I’m wearing a hachi sweater knit in a straight P1 with a curved hem.

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Mini dress

Next up, we have a mini dress hack. I love anything that I can wear that’s comfy, but that’s also really sexy, and this mini dress hack fits the bill perfectly.

For this version, we’ll be using the high-low hem option of the sweater.  Because the bottom of both the front and back pieces of the bodice are straight, it’s very easy to simply add length to the bottom of these to lengthen your sweater into a dress. How much length you add to the bottom of your pattern pieces is completely up to you, but I found that 4 inches was perfect for the “mini” look I was going for.

When cutting out both the front and back pieces of your sweater, simply add 4 inches to the length at the bottom of each. Please note that the high-low bands were not changed at all for this hack; only the length of the main body pieces have been altered.

Cut and sew together the rest of the sweater as described in the tutorial, and voila! You now have a cute and very trendy mini dress, ready to go!

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Poms

If you’re anything like me you might have an addiction to Faux Fur Poms especially on the littles! They are just so cute! I’m going to show you a quick and easy way to substitute the ears for Poms! You’ll sew your hood together exactly the same as all of the instructions but before sewing the hood I recommend marking your ear placements slightly past the seam allowance in a washable pen that way you know where to place your poms. Then I highly recommend adding interfacing where your poms will be for added durability especially if using a pom with snaps.

 

Now if you have a sew on pom you’ll sew it right along the markings you made for the ears. I recommend going directly through the seam allowance, once again for added durability.

 

If you are using a pom with snaps (which I recommend for washing purposes as well as pom changing fun!), push your seam allowance toward the back of the hood and attach your snap through your interfacing and the seam allowance.

and wallah! You are done and now have super cute pom ears!

 

Happy Sewing,

Michelle

 

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Colorblocked

I am all in anytime that I have a chance to sport some spirit gear for our local team (Go Grizzlies!). Awhile ago, I was doing some aimless browsing and came across a colorblocked sweatshirt that was absolutely perfect. Of course they didn’t have our team colors, but the oversized sweater was the perfect starting point to recreating this sporty look.

To begin, you will want to divide the front and back bodice pieces, as well as the sleeve, into the sections. For mine, I began with the front bodice piece. I measured 5″ down from the neckline and placed a vertical line. I then measured 6″ below that to create my second color block. The remaining section will be for my third color block.  For the back bodice, I lined up the bottom hemline of both front and back piece, and transferred my lines to this piece as well.

To create the colorblocked sleeve, I began by aligning to top of the sleeve with the front bodice neckline and again, transferring these lines.

Once the lines are drawn, you will then need to cut your pieces on these lines (you can also fold your pattern on each of these lines if you’d rather not cut your original). To cut the fabric, you will need to add an additional 1/2″ to each line you drew, both to the top and bottom colorblocked sections of this line, to account for the seam allowance.

Now that you’ve cut out your pieces (phew, wasn’t that fun?! haha), you will begin to reassemble the bodices and sleeves. With right sides together, match up each colorblock section and sew using a 1/2″ SA.

Once your pieces have been sewn together, you will then follow the original tutorial to construct your sweatshirt.  And just like that, you’re now ready to show off your favorite colors, prints, or school spirit all in one fun, colorblocked sweater!

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Higher side split

Let’s end this easy hacks series with a Pinterest inspired hack. One of the testers shared a picture of a high side slit oversized sweater and I knew I just have to have one. This is super easy look to achieve!

I chose to make the slit 5″ but that is just a mild suggestion. You can certainly make it bigger (or smaller) if you’d like. Mark 5″ up from the bottom raw edge on all 4 side seams. You can use pins, clips or a tailor chalk.

Sew the pattern as instructed in the tutorial but stop the at the 5″ mark. You may find this step easier to be done if you sew (at least the last few inches) with a sewing machine. Repeat the steps on the other side.

Press a 1/2″ hem on both sides of the side seam. Stitch the hem down with a zig zag stitch, twin needles or a coverstitch.

Continue adding the front and back bands ad in the tutorial. See that was super easy!

I did the hack on my turtleneck version but it would be super cute on all neckline.

Tip: If you would like to make the high side seam on the curved hem option you would have to sew the side seams the same way you do the high low option. 

 

Hope you enjoyed these as much as we loved making them for you. As always, don’t forget to show off your creations in the P4P Facebook group or Instagram (use #patternsforpirates) so we can ohhh and ahhh over them!

Gala Gown :: Easy Hacks

It’s a Gala Hacks party! In true P4P fashion, our amazing blog team has some fun, easy hacks and mash ups ready for you.

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Gala – Sweetheart mash up

There’s no denying that the Gala Gown has all of the drama and beauty needed for all of those amazing times in our life. However, it can also be transformed into a fun little top with very little effort! I used the bodice of the Gala Gown for this look, however I paired it with the peplum skirt option from the Sweetheart Dress. 

To create this look, cut and assemble your bodice from the Gala Gown as directed in the tutorial. You will then want to use the peplum skirt option from the Sweetheart Dress. Mark the quarter points on both the bodice and the skirt. Slip the skirt over the bodice, right sides together, and match quarter points. Attach using a ½” SA. Finish your peplum by hemming and you’re all done!
~ Erinn

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Gala – Pencil Skirt mash up

Loving the new Gala top but looking for something a little more form-fitted through the hips?  I’m going to take you through a super quick and easy mash with the Freebie Pirate Pencil Skirt that’ll give you a totally different look. Go ahead and grab your Gala Bodice Lining and your Pencil Skirt Pattern (high rise height) pieces.  You’ll want to make sure the bodice bottom is close to the same width as your pencil skirt top for mashing (based on your sizing it should be).  You may have to grade your pencil skirt pieces slightly to match the Gala Bodice.  I did this through the added waistband height.

Next, you’ll need need to add the Pencil Skirt band height to your pencil skirt pattern.  You’ll take the given band height and divide it by 2 and then add that to the top of your pattern pieces.  For example- the band height on mine called for 5 inches so I added 2.5 to my pattern piece ( since the band is folded in half for the actual skirt height).  This is what you’ll cut for the bottom of your dress.

Now, sew your bodice as directed in the pattern and the side seams of your pencil skirt.   You’ll end up with two separate pieces that look like the photo below.

Finish your dress by sewing your bodice to your skirt piece just like you would if you were sewing the standard Gala skirt and you’re done!  Totally new look- perfect for New Years’ Eve fun!

 

Happy Sewing and Cheers,

Michelle

 

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Gala – Boundless mash up

It’s no secret that the Boundless dress is one of my favorite P4P dresses so it was only natural that I would mash the Gala Gown bodice with the Boundless skirt. This is a super easy hack.

All you have to do is cut the Gala Gown bodice and sleeves and the Boundless skirt. I used bamboo knit for my whole dress but if you used stable knits for the top, I encourage you to use fabric with great drape for the skirt.

Sew the top and the skirt as instructed in the patterns. You will be adding the skirt as in the Boundless tutorial, using elastic to stabilize the waist.

Hack: I used the width of the fabric and stitched the skirt in a loop. I marked the sides and front of my skirt and attached it to the bodice with the seam in the back. 

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Ribbon Belt

I see a lot of posts wanting something to really highlight the waist when wearing a dress, but if you’re wearing a more formal dress you might not have a belt that goes! A ribbon belt can be very elegant and simple to create to give yourself a little more definition or attention to your waistline.  You can grab any ribbon style you’re drawn to that coordinates with your dress and attach whatever embellishment you find that makes your heart sing!

Some ideas would be appliques, belt buckles, brooches, fabric flowers, hair-clips, bows, etc.  I picked up satin ribbon and some great velvet ribbon as well.

To create it you just need to cut your ribbon as long as you’d like- so the waist measurement plus enough to tie a bow and however long you want  your tails.  I like to have my tails go to almost the very bottom of my hem personally, but that’s just personal preference.  Make sure you finish the edges if you pick a ribbon that frays.  Satin ribbon I prefer to heat seal with a flame.

Find the center of your cut ribbon and attach your embellishment with hand stitching.

There! You now have a beautiful belt that will look stunning on your more formal dresses! It’s quick and simple for such a fabulous add on and the possibilities are endless!

 

Here a a few modeled with the Gala Gown.

Judy

Which hack will you make first? Don’t forget to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group so we can all admire them too.

Fierce Bra and Undies – Easy Hacks

Ahoy, pirates! In true P4P fashion we could not let the DOUBLE release happen without showing you some simple hacks for your new Fierce Undies and Bra. All these simple mods can be applied to both our adult and youth pattern.

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Undies with bands

   

I love the new Fierce Undies. They feel so amazing! But I know sometimes I prefer a knit waistband instead of elastic. So today I will be showing you how to hack a knit waistband on the Fierce Undies.

 

The first thing I did was cut and assemble the pattern according to the pattern. Then I measured the top of the undies to see how wide it is.

Now here is the formula I used to the band width: (undies width X 2)+1 X 80%. I like to use 80% because I like my band a little smaller but not too tight. Here is a picture of my measurements. 

So my finished number is 24.8. So I cut my band at 4” tall and 24.8 wide. I cut my band 4” high because I like the 2” thickness. I fold my band short ends together and sew.

Then I fold it again raw edges together.

 

Now I quarter the band and undies, then I put the band over the undies with right sides together matching the quarter marks.

Sew the band on, top stitch if desired.

Now you have a knit and Fierce undies! 

 

 

 

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Undies with picot lace

Nicole will show us how to add picot trim to the leg opening soon!

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Bra with knit biding

For this hack, we will be using knit to create a binding instead of fold over elastic (FOE). This is a a great hack to use if you don’t have any FOE on hand or if you want your binding to be a cute print or exact match of one of your fabrics.
To get started, cut out the three 2” strap pieces using the width measurements as indicated in the elastic cut chart according to your size. Optional: serge along the long edges for additional stability. Then, press all three binding pieces into 1/2” strips: Fold pieces in half, press, open back up, then bring raw edges to meet at the center crease, press, fold in half, press.
Open up your binding neckline piece, match the center point of binding (right side) to the center point of the neckline (lining side). Stretching slightly, stitch along the neckline using a stretch stitch and a 1/2” seam allowance (along the first crease).