Charleston Crossover :: Easy Hacks

May 18, 2023

Sometimes there are things that we want to show you how to do with our new pattern releases, that we just can’t figure out how to add to the main pattern without making it a mile long. So instead, we create these fun “easy hacks” blog posts, and help you take your pattern one step further.

Or in the case of this blog post, THREE steps further!

Today we are going to show you:

How to add a lining (for those sheer fabrics in your stash).
How to add a ruffle neckline.
How to add a waistband and make a separate skirt.

HOW TO ADD A LINING

Don’t discount sheer fabrics when deciding which to use for the new Charleston Crossover! I’ve been saving this gorgeous (and spendy) silk jersey for just the right pattern and it was just a *touch* too sheer for my comfort.

No worries! Just add a lining!

I lined the bodice and skirt using a slinky cupro that matched the feel of my silk jersey.

Here’s the how-to.

Cut a set of your front and back bodice and skirt pieces out of your lining. Your skirt lining will need to be a few inches shorter than your main fabric. I cut mine 3 inches shorter.

Sew your bodice main pieces and bodice lining pieces at the shoulder seams.

With right sides together, pin and sew your bodice lining and main together along the neckline.

I added clear elastic to my seam because both of my fabrics have a lot of drape. You may find that your fabrics have enough recovery to skip the elastic.

Understitch your seam allowance to your lining.

From this point, assemble the bodice per the pattern instructions, treating the bodice main and lining as one piece. I highly recommend basting your seams before sewing them. You are handling several layers of fabric in the side seam.

Next, sew your skirt side seams together on both the main and the lining pieces.

You have options after this point. You can baste the skirt and lining along the waistline with wrong sides together or with lining right side to main wrong side.

I chose to do the latter because I didn’t want my seams to rub against each other. If you prefer a cleaner look on the inside of your skirt, sew with wrong sides together.

Again, baste your skirt and lining together at the waistline and complete the construction of your dress per pattern instructions.

Another note of personal preference… I chose to serge the hemline of my lining and left it as is. I didn’t add a proper hem. It seemed unnecessary!

Enjoy your pretty new dress! It requires a lot of twirling when you wear it!

HOW TO ADD A RUFFLE NECKLINE

This pattern just calls for adding a little something extra to the neckline!

Step 1: Cut ruffle piece. I cut my ruffle at 2.75″ tall by 4x the binding piece. I wanted less seams, so I cut 2 long strips at 2x the width of the neck binding strip.

Step 2: Gather your ruffle.

Step 3: Sew shoulder seams of bodice, then find quarter points.

Step 4: Find the quarter points on your ruffle AND your bodice neckline. Pin/clip gathered ruffle to front neckline, wrong side of ruffle to right side of bodice. Add a basting stitch if you’d like. Pin/clip ruffle 1/2″ away from the edge of the bodice on the side that will face out.

Step 5: Pin/Clip binding piece right sides to right sides on top of the gathered ruffle, and sew.

Step 6: Topstitch binding, and construct the rest of your top/dress as normal.

What you end up with is an incredibly adorable (ruffle added) Charleston Crossover!

Thanks for sharing with us Jessica!

HOW TO ADD A WAISTBAND + MAKE A SKIRT

Have you been eyeballing the skirt from the Charleston Crossover but want it on it’s own, as a separate piece? Same. SAMEEEEEE.

Well let me tell you: it’s super easy to make happen.

Simply follow the skirt construction portion of the Charleston Crossover tutorial. Completely omit the bodice, as we won’t need it for this sewing project. What we will need is a waistband…so here’s a quick cut chart for that.

The measurements below are included as LENGTH x WIDTH. (Width = stretch of fabric) Inches are rounded to the nearest .25, Centimeters are rounded to nearest .1

Assemble skirt as instructed in Charleston Crossover tutorial.

Fold waistband in half, right sides together, matching along short side.

Stitch along short side, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip waistband piece, with right sides together, creating loop.

Mark quarter points on waistband and skirt.

Match quarter points on waistband and skirt.

**Waistband is slightly smaller than skirt opening. You’ll need to stretch waistband to fit when sewing.

Stitch, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip waistband up, away from skirt. Steam + press.

Wear the heck out of your new skirt because it’s the cutest!

We hope you love the easy hacks we provided, and are thrilled to see what you sew for yourself using the Charleston Crossover pattern! It is available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, May 24, 2023.

Charleston Crossover

Brizo and Circe Swimsuit Simple Hacks

April 26, 2023

We always have fun showing off a few ways to modify our new patterns to give you even more options! Here are some quick and simple hacks to the new Circe Swim Top and Brizo Bikini Bottoms!

CIRCE-ADDING THICKER UNDERBUST ELASTIC

If you’re looking for a bit more underbust support, here is the hack for you. Since this add a lot more support and stability, you might consider sizing up as it will feel much tighter wrapping around you that the normal sizing. Cut and assemble your top until the step where you stitch elastic into the bottom edge.

You’re going to not attach elastic along the back and just an inch or two into the front bodice. Just baste or stitch together with no elastic on this center section.

We’re going to cut our thicker swim elastic (I have 3/4″ here) from the front wrap section (the top corner) to the bottom side seam of the bodice, around the back and to the opposite side.

Making sure to match center backs, we’re going to pin the elastic to the seam allowance along the section we left with no elastic.

Stitch elastic to the seam allowance along this section. Make sure to use a stretch stitch. After stitching the center back section, flip the seam allowance like it will be once the top is flipped right sides out. Pin end of the elastic to the seam allowance at the top corner of the bodice. Stitch end of elastic to the seam allowance here.

Repeat on opposite side.

Continue the rest of the top as the tutorial instructs. Flipping rights side out, closing side seam hole and optional top-stitching.

Enjoy the extra support and stability.

CIRCE- THICKER STRAP ELASTIC

If you’re looking for a bit more support on the shoulder straps, but love the look of the thin strap option… here is perfect hack for you! You can up the elastic in thin strap easily. Here I’m using 3/4″ swim elastic instead of the 1/4″, but you can use whatever width you’d like. Remember, this will make the straps feel tighter, so you may need to slightly adjust the length.

Do a little math… whatever width you choose add double the difference from the 1/4″ to the strap pieces. I used 3/4″, which is 1/2″ wider than the original. So, I added 1″ to the strap width pieces.

You will also need to add a little width to pickups on the main front bodice pieces. You will add the width split on each side of the pick up. So, I needed to add 1/2″ total to my pick up width. I added 1/4″ on each side of the pick up.

Sew up the Circe just like the tutorial has you sew up the thin strap option and enjoy your thicker straps 🙂

CIRCE- RING HACK

Sew up your Circe all normally, but grab a gate ring and have a new, fun way to wear your top!

CIRCE- CLASP HACK

Want a different look instead of the back waist ties? Try adding a swimsuit clasp. For this hack, you will need to begin by finding your center back measurement. Measure from the side seam to the center of your back either using a tape measure around your back and splitting the measurement in half, or using the tie pattern piece pinned to mark the center back. Mark this new line on the tie pattern and cut four shorter ties (2 lining and 2 main) from the new piece. (For this hack, I am using the thick tie option. If you are using the thin ties, your pieces will not need much modifying and you may want to use a smaller clasp.)

Follow the sewing tutorial as written, except I recommend sewing the last two inches of the tie with your sewing machine and leaving off the elastic. This will help reduce bulk and allow you to easily add your swim clasp. Once you get to the step of basting your ties closed, it is a great time to turn it right side out and check the fit. You may find you need to shorten your ties to get the fit you like. Make any needed adjustments. You can see here I modified the thick tie to better fit my 1 inch swim clasp. I tapered down the tie so that it would fit into the clasp without too much gathering of the fabric.

Add your swim clasp by taking one tie and sliding the end of the tie through the closed portion of the clasp. Make sure the hook is pointed down. Wrap the fabric around the clasp towards the back of the suit. The fabric may gather slightly to fit. Place a safety pin where the stitching line will be. Next, create the loop portion by taking the opposite tie and folding the suit back on itself. You need to create a small tube for the clasp to enter. Place a safety pin where the stitching line will be. You want this line about 1/2 inch from the edge. It needs to be large enough for the clasp to fit into, but not so large that the clasp shifts too much with wear. Try the suit on and check the placement of the clasp. Make any needed changes. Then stitch closely to the clasp with a stretch stitch and on the opposite tie to create the loop.

And now you have a swim top with a clasp closure.

SOLID FRONT BRIZO BOTTOM

Don’t have coordinating fabrics for your Brizo Bikini Bottom? Just grab the full lining front piece on either the high rise or the v rise and sew them up with a solid front!

Notch Top & Dress- Easy Hacks

January 27, 2023

We love sharing some simple hacks to help extend the versatility of our patterns even more! Here are two for the new Notch Top & Dress we hope you enjoy.

ADDING LENGTH TO CROP::

Loving the new Notch Top & Dress, but which the crop option was just a bit longer? I got ya 😉 Here is a super quick and easy hack to make more of a top length than a shorter crop.

I only added about 1″ to mine, but you can add however much you’d prefer. Remember though is it fitted to the natural waist where you are your smallest, so if you’re lengthening quite a bit you might also want to grade out to a bigger size at the bottom where you’re adding. This way it wont be too tight on your high hips (if you’re going that long).

You’ll cut out the bodice just as you would normally. I did the tank top option here, so no sleeves…but you would cut those and sew them the same as normal as well.

We will start making our hack changing by cutting out JUST the main fabric waistband pieces– adding the length you’d like.

Sew up the bodice per the tutorial as normal. When you get to the waistband we will just be stitching on the one layer. Still add in that underbust elastic for adults.

Last, just hem up the bottom edge of the waistband.

Ta-da… so quick and simple! I love this everyday top and know it will be in high rotation! I can’t wait to see yours!

Want to see this hack being sewn up in action? Here is a quick video of it too!

MATERNITY ::

It can be somewhat challenging to find a great dress that works for maternity, but we’re here to show you a super simple change to the Notch Top & Dress that will give you a lovely maternity friendly dress.

Simple skip the waistband completely (don’t skip the elastic in that seam though) and add the missing length to your skirt pieces. Attach the skirt straight to the bodice pieces for an empire style dress perfect for a bump.

All Gather Round Hacks

September 9, 2022

ALL GATHER ROUND HACKS

Ruffle on Short Sleeve Hack:

Copy your favorite ready-to-wear look with this simple hack!

Adding a ruffle to the sleeve of the new Gather ‘Round pattern is a very simple hack to further extend the versatility of your pattern.

Start by cutting out the short sleeve pattern pieces.

Measure the bottom hemline.

Multiply that measurement by 1.75 to get the length of your ruffle piece (i.e. 12” x 1.75 = 21”).

I made a ruffle that is 2.5” long, but you can make yours longer or shorter to your preference. My sleeve hem was 12” so I cut my ruffle pieces 3” tall (to accommodate the seam allowance on both ends) x 21” long.

Use your preferred gathering method to fit the ruffle to the sleeve. Baste in place, then sew.

From this point forward, complete your make per the pattern instructions.

Skirt only Hack:

I have been all over the swirly skirt and crop top look this year, and when we started testing the All Gather Round I couldn’t resist making the skirt section on its own to add to my collection.

This is the simplest and easiest hack out there, just head over and grab the waistband pattern piece in your size from the FREE Peg Legs pattern.

I used a viscose elastane fabric for the skirt pieces, but that wouldn’t have worked for the waistband as it wouldn’t have enough body to hold the skirt up. I decided on a plain black cotton/lycra for my waistband, but whatever you use it will need great stretch and recovery as the skirt can end up pretty heavy with all those tiers attached. Then cut your fabric for the waistband using the Pegs pattern piece.

Cut your skirt pieces according to the instructions for the All Gather Round. I had:

1 x waistband

2 x top tier

3 x mid tier

5 x bottom tier

(the tier pieces are folded in the photo above, just to get them all in the pic)

Then simply construct your skirt according to the tutorial for the All Gather Round but instead of attaching it to the bodice you attach it to the waistband. It really couldn’t be easier!

Give it a good press with some steam to help the gathers behave, and you’re all done. Enjoy your new twirly, swirly skirt! I’m wearing this with the crop length top from the Rainbow Dress Pattern

Exposed Seam Hack:

I have been seeing dresses and tops with exposed seams everywhere lately, and a hack showcasing this fun trend could not be simpler!

First, choose your options for the Gather ’round Dress, and complete the steps up to Step 4. That means you’ll be constructing your bodice, adding optional pockets if desired and sewing the side seams of your skirt tiers.

At this point, you may choose to finish the raw edges of your skirt tiers, as these will be exposed once the dress is complete. This is completely up to you! I chose to do so on this version, because I like the more finished look it gave it, although leaving the edges raw is also just fine. Just make sure that if you do choose this option, to be careful NOT to cut any of the seam allowance off with your serger.

Next, select the top tier of your skirt, and run two rows of gathering stitches across the top long edge, as directed in the pattern tutorial. You’ll want to have it line up roughly with the circumference of your bodice, as shown here.

The next step is where the exposed seams come into play! This time, attach the top skirt tier to the bodice WRONG SIDES together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn your dress right side out. At this point, particularly if you’ve used a different colored bodice lining like I have here, you’ll want to trim the seam allowance of the bodice ONLY, being careful not to cut through the stitching. This will reduce bulk and enable your skirt to lay more nicely as well.

Press the seam allowance up toward the bodice, and topstitch just below the exposed edge of the skirt.

Depending on the options you’ve chosen for your Gather ’round Dress, repeat these steps until all skirt tiers are attached. Hem as usual.

You’ve done it! Now step back and admire your gorgeous and trendy exposed seams.

Gathered Cap Sleeve with Long Sleeves Hack:

I really love the flutter and long sleeve combo and it’s super simple to achieve!

Follow the Gather ‘Round dress tutorial for adding the gathered cap sleeves to the bodice but use a basting stitch.

Place the right side of the long sleeve on top of the wrong side of the gathered cap sleeve, and attach flat, easing the shoulder of the sleeve to match the armscye. Pull out all basting stitches.

With right sides together and matching the armpit seam. Pin and stitch the side seam from the sleeve hem to the bottom edge of the bodice. Continue with tutorial to attach the skirt.

Voila! All done!

Tie Up Top Easy Hacks

August 2, 2022

Tie Up Top Easy Hacks

Hood

I had a hard time narrowing down options for the Tie Up Top, like I always do when I’m drafting up a pattern! One option that I wanted, but just couldn’t squeeze in anymore into the pattern was a hood! I thought it would be so cute with the crop, long ties option! So, here I am to show off how to add a hood to it if you’re like me and think it’s an adorable combo.

Cut your Tie Up Top with the rounded/crew neckline. I used the hood from the Sporty Piko….bonus! Cut that out in the same size as your Tie Up Top is.

Next sew up the Tie Up Top completely following the tutorial, just leaving the neckline raw. Sew up the hood as the Sporty Piko tutorial instructs up to the part that attaches to the neckline.

We will now follow the instructions on the Sporty Piko for attaching the hood. Match the hood at the back centers. Then continue pinning/clipping the hood to the neckline without stretching neckline or hood. The notches on the hood should be close to the center front. It might not be perfect since we’re using 2 different patterns, but it will be close! My size 7 matched up great.

Stitch the hood to the neckline.

Now…. if you’re like us… you’ll also need some matching pants and a bow to go with it 😉

Wear it tied in front

Or wrapped to the back and tied.

Either way, you have an amazing new hoodie! I hope I have time to make myself one in waffle knit soon too!

Diagonal Stripes Two Ways!

The center seam of the new Tie Top pattern makes it perfect for scrap-busting and playing with pattern placement! Here are two ways that I added a diagonal stripe detail to the front of my makes.

Colorblocking

I am fully committed to projector sewing at the moment, but this hack is easiest to accomplish with a printed pattern piece.

Start by printing and assembling (if necessary) your front bodice pattern piece of choice.

I wanted my colorblocking to begin just below the armscye. You may wish to carry yours higher. If so, the same steps apply!

I started by measuring the side seam. Mine was 12”. I divided in half and marked my pattern piece at this halfway point (6”). I also made a mark ½” from the bottom of the armscye and above the hemline to account for the seam allowance. I copied these marked positions on the opposite side of the pattern piece.

I then drew a diagonal line from the top outside mark to the inside center point. Repeat for the marks below.

Trace another line ¼” above and below your original lines. These represent your seam allowances and fold lines.

It’s time to cut your pieces! Fold up the first block at the #1 line indicated below. Repeat for the other two pieces, folding your pattern piece at the corresponding lines.

Sew in order, right sides together, with a ¼” seam allowance and top stitch. Isn’t your front bodice CUTE??!!

From this point, follow the assembly instructions that come with your pattern.

Striped Fabric

It’s very easy to achieve a diagonal detail with striped fabric. Just be careful about how you cut it. Rather than cutting two pieces at a time, I chose to cut one panel first, then the other. I wanted to make sure my stripes were as accurate as possible.

I have a clear ruler imprinted with angles and decided to use the 60° angle to line up my pattern piece. The angle of your diagonal lines is totally up to you – it’s most important that the sides mirror each other.

Cut your first panel, flip it over, line up your stripes, and cut out your second panel.

Assemble per the pattern instructions. I recommend pinning or clipping ever second or third stripe to keep it beautifully lined up as you sew.

Enjoy!

24/7 Tank Hack

June 22, 2022

24/7 Tank Hack

If there is something I am always looking for a little bit more of in life, it’s comfort! I started making all my own bras a few years ago, and a soft and comfortable knit bra pattern is something I just love. When we made the 24/7 Tank in testing I couldn’t get enough of the integral bra with it, and knew I had to hack it to make the perfect everyday undies for me too.

I used a lovely athletic jersey fabric from Crafty Baba, here in the UK, with a 95/5 cotton lycra from my lining. You need a stable fabric with good stretch and great recovery. This honestly couldn’t be much easier to do. I started by tracing the bra pieces from the 24/7 Tank pattern, and then added 1/4″ seam allowance onto the neckline and armscye curves of both the front and back bra pattern pieces. In my pictures below, the original pattern is traced in black biro and the extra 1/4″ seam allowance is drawn in a permanent marker, to make it a little easier to see.

Then I cut out the following pieces:

FRONT

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh (optional but gives better support)

BACK

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh

ELASTIC

1 x under bust elastic cut to measurements provided in pattern.

Sew your outer fabric together at the shoulder seams, right sides together using your regular 1/2″ seam allowance.

Optionally, for your lining you can baste the inner lining to the wrong sides of the lining fabric before you sew the shoulder seams together, this helps make sure everything gets layered together properly. I didn’t in this example as I was comfortable handling everything without but it’s easy to get confused.

Then sew your lining together at the shoulder seams, right sides together. Your fabric should be layered as such: back inner lining power mesh, back lining right sides up, front lining right sides down, front inner lining power mesh.

Next lay the lining fabric out flat, right sides up (the attached power mesh inner lining will be at the bottom). Lay the outer fabric right sides down on top. Pin or clip the fabric together around the neckline. Sew together using your favourite stretch stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance. I sew 1/4″ clear elastic into the seam as I go using my overlocker/serger. This helps recovery of the seam and gives greater support for a larger bust.

Next you will flip the garment right sides out again through the neckhole. Press carefully.

We will now finish the armscyes using a burrito roll method. You can follow this video tutorial for the Boundless dress which guides you through step by step, just remember we are only using a 1/4″ seam allowance for the armscyes. Burrito Roll Method – P4P You Tube

Or the written instructions are to lay the fabric out flat, rights sides out. Then roll one side of the bodice up towards the other side.

When you get near the top, flip the bottom of the open edges out under the roll and up over the top of it to encase the roll inside the open edge.

Then pin or clip along the length of the curved armscye. Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance being careful to keep the roll of fabric inside the shoulder strap well out of the way of the stitches.

Pull your garment right sides out through the finished shoulder strap. Here you can see the left side is finished and the right is not.

To finish the right side too, lay the garment out again and roll the finished side up towards the unfinished side. Then flip the bottom fabric on the unfinished side out under the roll, and up over the top to encase it again, like before. Stitch again.

Pull your garment right sides out through the shoulder strap once more and give it a press.

Now we just have to finish the side seams. To do this we open out the main from the lining on both the front and back, and clip them right sides together, matching main with main and lining with lining. Then sew the side seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat on the other side.

Your bra is now almost finished, you just have to stitch the elastic to the bottom. Butt the edges of the elastic together and sew them together using a wide, short zig zag stitch. Then quarter the elastic and the bottom of the bra and sew the elastic on as per the instructions in the 24/7 Tank tutorial.

You’re all done! I hope you love your comfy new lounge bra. They’re so quick to make you can whip up another in next to no time.

Happy Sewing!

Dana xxx

Sugar Maple Skirt :: Easy Hacks

April 12, 2022

Have you heard the news? P4P just dropped our latest pattern and it’s the swishiest, twirliest thing we’ve put out in a while!

The Sugar Maple Skirt is an a-line skirt with a full circle drop yoke. It is designed to be worn at the natural waist and comes in four lengths: mini, knee, tea and maxi. The top yoke has a flattering, body skimming silhouette, while the fuller part of the skirt joins just below the booty.

Whichever length you choose, each provides for ALL the swishy, twirly goodness that you could hope for in a skirt. The Sugar Maple is a great basic skirt pattern to have, an excellent sewing project for beginners, and it comes together so quickly that you’ll end up making multiple before you even know what happened!

Before you do anything else, go read all about the newest pattern: the Sugar Maple Skirt! It’s available in Adult – Hourglass and Youth sizes and is just the sweetest.

But guess what we went and did? We made it even sweeter by giving you some super easy, super fun pattern hacks to take the pattern a little further!

Dress Hack

The best way to get a little bit of twirl into your life is with the new Sugar Maple Skirt, I think we can all agree on that! If you love the twirly, whirly skirt but like the ease of a dress then this hack is for you. My daughter is now 8 and insists on picking her own outfits, but some of her choices can be pretty adventurous and she loves a colour clash. For me, a dress is the easiest option every time. I matched the Sugar Maple Skirt with the bodice of the Rainbow Dress Youth

They meshed together perfectly!

: Sugar Maple Skirt

: Rainbow Dress bodice

All I had to do was cut out the bodice of the Rainbow Dress and Sugar Maple Skirt as normal and just omit the waistband for the skirt. I sewed them each up individually as per their instructions and then laid them down next to each other to check they would fit together nicely at the waist.

I had to shave a smidge off the side seams at the waist of the bodice to get a perfect fit, but it was only 1/4″ either side. Then quarter your bodice and skirt pieces at the waist, using clips or pins.

Flip the skirt up and over the bodice so they are right sides together, and clip them together.

Finally, just sew the skirt to the bodice and you’re done. It’s as easy as that!

Twirl away to your heart’s content. I hope you love your new dress as much as we do. Happy Sewing! Dana xx

Skort Hack

As soon as the testers started talking about their plans for the Sugar Maple Skirt, many of them decided that it’d be the perfect skirt to turn into a skort — and we have the perfect pattern to help create that with the Peg Leg Leggings! Many thanks to Kalene Bartlett, our tester extraordinare, who photographed her steps of making the ::perfect:: skort! My sisters-in-law are big runners and I think they’d adore a running skirt like this! But I’ve also heard that plenty of mommas would love to have some added coverage for chasing littles around during the warmer months….not to mention it’s a perfect solution for fighting off that dreaded thigh chafing experience while rocking skirts. Because the Sugar Maple Skirt is meant to sit at the high waist, you’ll want to cut the Peg Legs pattern at the high-waisted cut line. You’ll need:

Peg Legs Leggings, in shortie / biker length…depending on the length of your skirt (assembled per the pattern instructions)
Sugar Maple Waistband
Sugar Maple Skirt top + drop yokes (assembled per the pattern instructions)

Mark the quarter points on both the Peg Legs and Sugar Maple skirt. Slide the Peg Legs inside of the skirt, right side of the Pegs facing the wrong side of the Sugar Maple. Pin/clip in place.

Find the quarter points of the waistband, and slide over the Sugar Maple / Peg Legs pieces…matching previously marked quarter points.

Sew all 3 pieces together, stretching the waistband and Peg Legs slightly to match — careful not to stretch the skirt opening.

Flip waistband up. Hem skirt and shorts.

You’re finished! Now go be like Kalene and be cut, comfortable AND covered in your new Peg Legs / Sugar Maple Skort!

I am beyond excited to see the Sugar Maple Skirts that you make! Head on over to the shop and grab yourself a copy of these new patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, April 17, 2022.

Sugar Maple Skirt – Adult | Sugar Maple Skirt – Youth | Sugar Maple Skirt BUNDLE

Hoping for a little inspiration before diving into some Sugar Maple sewing? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sugar Maple Skirt: Adult Album | Sugar Maple Skirt: Youth Album

Grace Dress- Easy Hacks

March 22, 2022

Ahoy pirates! The newest P4P pattern is here and it’s a must have. The gorgeous Grace dress features so many sleeves options but we just had to show you one more. We couldn’t let this release happen without showcasing probably the easiest hack in the history of hacks…the Grace flared sleeve.

Djem here, with another simple hack for some cool flared sleeves! Can’t decide between the flutter sleeve or the bishop sleeve? Want a mash of the two? Flared sleeves is the answer!

This can be done using either the 3/4 sleeve or long sleeve bishop options. Simply omit the elastic and then finish the hem using the narrow hem instructions for the flutter sleeve. Voila!

Facing Hack

If you, like me, are getting ready to cut out the fabric for your Grace Dress and realise that you have forgotten to buy your lining fabric, you can very easily make a facing instead. It won’t work if you are using a translucent fabric, like a chiffon (as you will be able to see the facing through the main fabric) but for the crepe I had picked out for my Grace, it worked perfectly.

First of all you will start by taking your main bodice front and back pieces, and drafting your facing pieces. I use a projector these days, but if you have a paper pattern you can use a tracing paper or just re print the pages that give you the necklines of both bodice pieces.

Take your front bodice and trace off the original neck cutline, then using a measuring tape or ruler mark 2 inches away along the length of the neckline. Then join the dots. You can use a French curve to help you here.

Do the same for the back bodice neckline. These will be your facing pieces.

Cut these out of your fabric and you will have two pieces that look like this.

Then cut out the same facing pieces from a light weight interfacing. This will help stabilise the neckline and give a better finish. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of your facing pieces following the manufacturers instructions.

Sew them together, rights sides together, at the shoulder seams.

If you haven’t already, sew your front and back main bodice pieces together at the shoulder seam. Then lay your facing pieces, rights sides together with the main bodice pieces, matching the fronts and backs together and matching the shoulder seams. Sew them together around the neckline. Making sure not to stretch the fabric as you sew.

Finish the raw edge (the long, outer curved edge you haven’t just sewn to the bodice) of your facing using a serger or your preferred method. Using a sharp pair of scissors, like these duck bill scissors, CAREFULLY trim down your facing seam allowance only to a ¼”. This will layer the seam allowances and reduce bulk. Then clip along the neckline, up to, but not through, the seam line. Turn through and give it a good press.

You now have two options. You can use a hemming tape, like this Wundaweb, to fuse the facing to the outer which stops it flipping out, or you can top stitch the facing down. I did both!

That’s it. You can now finish the rest of your garment as per the tutorial.

Enjoy your beautiful new frock.

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

How gorgeous do Djem and Dana look? I must admit, I will be adding these sleeves to my next Grace dress. I am thinking lace! I can’t wait to what your take will be on the Grace dress.

Kelli Dress Hacks

January 8, 2022

Straight Cut Skirt

I absolutely had to make this dress as soon as I saw Judy’s first sketches for the pattern. I love the cinched in waist and wrap over top and skirt, it’s just my kind of look. Sometimes it’s nice to have a little more coverage on a skirt, though, and I knew I wanted to try a really simple little hack to straighten the bottom edge of the underskirt piece, for a faux wrapover look.

The option is included for the full length skirt pieces, so it was the easiest hack to do and got me just the look I wanted for me.

The rest of the pattern is cut out as normal, the only piece we will be adjusting is the underskirt piece (the un-ruched skirt piece).

I was making the knee length, so I simply measured from the top of the skirt down to the knee length cut line on the right of the skirt pattern piece. Then I took that measurement (for me making the plus 2X size it was 25 3/4″), and used it to measure down the same length on the left side, using the full length skirt piece as a guide.

I am projecting onto tracing paper here to make it easier for you to see, as my fabric was a bit busy!

Then just draw a straight line across the bottom of the pattern piece to create your new straight hem skirt piece.

If you are using a projector, like me, you can also bring up the handy measurement grid included with the file for calibration, and use that as a guide for drawing a nice straight line across the pattern piece.

As I said, this is the only pattern piece that needs adjusting. Then just sew up your dress as per the tutorial for the pattern, until you get to the instructions for the skirt pieces.

Follow the instructions for the floor length skirt pieces and hem the bottom of the ruched skirt piece, then gather the side as per the tutorial. Next construct the back skirt and then hem both the back and un-ruched skirt pieces (the piece we adjusted) separately.

Finally, lay the un-ruched skirt piece facing up. Then lay the ruched skirt piece facing up on top of it. Baste them together along the top and sides, making sure the hems line up nicely with one another. Here is a picture of the ruched skirt piece laying on top of the un-ruched skirt piece prior to basting.

Lastly, you will want to lay your back skirt piece, right side facing down on top of the two front skirt pieces. Here pictured below with the bottom corner flipped up so you can more easily see the layers.

Sew the side seams, taking care to make sure the hems all line up together nicely. Basting the first inch of each side seam at the hemline can help with that.

Flip the skirt through right sides out, and finish the construction of the waist seam as the tutorial instructs and you’re done!

Nice and quick and easy. I hope you love your new straight hem skirt as much as I do mine (which is quite a lot!)

Happy Sewing!

Dana xxx

Side Seam Splits for Floor Length with No Slit

If you feel like you need a little more stride/walking room in the floor length with no split you can easily add a side split (or apply this same method to the back seam for a back slit).

Simply stop stitching the side seams of the skirt where you would like the slits to go to. Press remaining 1/2″ seam allowance not sewn to wrong side and hem.

It’s that’s simple! Now enjoy your extra walking room in your floor length dress!

Lumberjack – Reversible Hack

November 1, 2021

It’s here! It’s here! And I don’t mean only the cooler weather! The updated Lumberjack Shacket is here and now it it’s available in V figure (based on men measurements) and Hourglass figure (women’s measurement). Everyone gets a Lumberjack shirt or shacket!

The pattern includes a lined and an unlined option so today on the b log I wanted to show you how to take the lined option and make it fully reversible! Yup, one shirt that can be worn both ways.

Let’s get started! Print and cut the pattern and fabric as instructed in the tutorial. Make sure you use the lined option. For this tutorial I used a nylon, poly blend woven (the solid black) and a custom minky (the green one) for the lining.

NOTE: the hood I used for this hack is 1″ smaller on the front that the final pattern. If you want to achieve this exact look, remove 1″ from the hood pieces as show below. If you use the pattern hood as is, make sure to read below what small adjustments you need to make.

Once all pattern pieces are cut sew the main bodice and add sleeves and pockets as instructed in the tutorial. Repeat with the lining. Set the bodices aside for now. Sew the hood as per the lined tutorial. Place the hood (lining out) right sides together on the lining neckline. The hood will be about 1/2″ shorter than the lining neckline.

Sew the hood in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance, making sure to stitch through all 3 layers.

If you use the pattern hood, you will place the lined hood right sides together with the MAIN, not lining. The center back will match the neckline back and the front point will reach the fold line of the inner fold line. Sew it in place. Lay the lining over, right sides together and stitch along the neckline. The hood will be sandwiched between the right sides of the bodices.

Tip: Tie the two sleeves in a knot for both main and lining so they are out of the way when you sew.

Place your main and lining right sides together matching the raw edges of the neckline and bottom. Pin them in place.

The main will be longer, that’s the way it is supposed to be.

Sew along the neckline, the hood will be sandwiched in between the main and lining. Sew the bottom edge too. Seam allowance for these steps is 1/2 inch.

Turn the jacket right side out. We will now top stitch the neckline and bottom hem.

When top stitching, fold the excess fabric down (or up) 1/2″ on the placket part. See picture below for how it will look both at the neckline and bottom hem.

Following the first fold marking, press the front placket once on both sides. Pin in place. I like to add a strip of water soluble double sided tape to the raw edge of the lining. It will help tremendously when sewing.

Note: if you used the bigger hood, it will go all the way to the fold on both sides.

Fold the placket one more time along the second fold line. This will no overlap over the raw edge of the lining, right where the double sided tape is. Press it down with your fingers. If you don’t have any DST handy for this step, you can always pin it in place. Sew the placket down.

I also like to top stitch all around the placket, on all 4 sides. Once you finish these steps (and your jacket looks like the pic below) set it aside.

CUFFS

Let’s work on the cuffs. Press both cuffs, length wise. Open them up and press the top of each cuff 1/2″. Thus will create a memory hem. With the cuffs opened up, sew each at the short end to create a loop.

Refold the top memory hem over the loop.

Place the unfolded raw edge of the cuff on the lining sleeve opening. You will stretch the cuff to fit the opening. Match the sleeve seam with the cuff seam. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat this step with the other cuff and lining sleeve.

Time to make it look like a shirt! Push the lining sleeve through the main sleeve so they are wrong sides together.

Fold the cuff along the middle crease that we pressed earlier. The edge is still folded 1/2′. Once you bring the cuff over, the sleeve raw edge will be inclosed in the cuff. Pin the edge of the cuff on the sleeve all around.

Stitch the cuff down. Look how beautiful is the cuff with no raw edges on the lining! Take a second to admire your work!

BUTTONS

Sew the button holes on one of the plackets. Let’s add the buttons now! To make this Lumberjack fully reversible I added buttons on both sides of the placket. I hate to say it but the easiest way to do this is to hand 🖐 stitch 🖐 the buttons on both sides simultaneously. Make sure that you don’t pull the thread extremely tight. You need wiggle room for the buttons to be able to be fastened.