Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Sweater Weather – easy hacks

 

From brrrrrr to ummmm! This cold days, stay nice and warm with the newest P4P pattern, the Sweater Weather! Our blog contributors team has put together some quick and easy hacks to give you even more options to the pattern. Dana is showing you how to make a wonderful Sweater Weather dress, Jody ditches the side seams for a classic banded look and I took the sweater from winter to summer. Let’s get started! 

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Dress

I live in sweater dresses in the winter months because it gets cold in the UK.  I couldn’t resist doing a little hack to the new Sweater Weather length to recreate a Pinspiration I’ve had on my to-do list for a while.

I measured the front pattern piece and then held the tape measure up to myself to decide how much length I wanted to add.  I decided to go with 6 inches extra added to the tunic length, which is a little more that I would normally add but there is a hi-low cutline, and so I wanted to make sure the front would be long enough for decency. 


I use a projector these days and it was as simple as adding 6 inches extra length to the bottom of the front and back bodice pattern pieces, which I did on the fly with my perspex quilting ruler and rotary cutter.

However I also printed out the pattern piece so you could see how it would work on paper too.  The pink paper is the added section. I then decided to mark the notch for my side slit 2 inches up from the bottom edge of the pattern, but this would be up to you.  I chase a 7 year old and a puppy around all day so I didn’t want that side split going too high, but you could go with whichever height you choose.  Then repeat for your back piece.

The only other change I made was to copy the bishop sleeve look from my inspiration pic, and I did that by just cutting the bell sleeve width to the slim cuffed sleeve length.  Projector and paper pattern piece pictures below:

Then I cheekily used my overlocker/serger to gather the bottom of the sleeve by increasing my stitch length and differential feed to their highest setting and whipping round the bottom of the sleeve piece, which gathered it in just enough to fit the cuff. Perfect!

Finally just construct the rest of the garment as per the instructions in the tutorial, and you’re done!

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

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No side split

Hey everyone! I have another super quick hack for you. As fun as that side split is that comes in the pattern, I was wanting a most basic top, so I decided to do without the side split for this! It’s as simple as adding a bit of length to the front bodice piece, and sewing the two waistband pieces together in a circle! I’ll break it down for you below.

First, you’ll need to make your front and back bodice pieces the same length. I chose to do Top length for this one, and the front bodice piece was about a little over an inch shorter than the back. Since I also use my projector and don’t print out the pattern pieces, I marked the new Top cut line digitally on my PDF file on my computer. In order to figure out how much length to add, I measured from the Split Marking on the side seam down to the Top cut line on the BACK bodice piece. For my size, that distance measured 2.65 inches.

I then measured down from the Split Marking on the side seam of the FRONT bodice piece and marked where the new Top cut line should be. (Doing this with Paper pattern pieces, you would simply lay the back bodice piece over the front piece and see how much extra to add to the bottom of the front!)

This is what the new digitally measured cut line looks like when projected.

Once I cut my bodice pieces (following the newly marked cut line for the front bodice!) You can see that my front and back bodices are the same length now!

Next, you can sew up your shoulder seams, add the sleeves, and then sew your side seams. When sewing the side seams, instead of stopping your stitches at the split marking like you would have to do if you were making the side split, you can just keep on keeping on and sew right on down to the bottom! Like so:

Lastly, you’ll need to create and attach your waistband. Take your two waistband pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch them together along the short ends.

Now fold the waistband circle wrong sides together aligning the raw edges.  You can now slip the waistband on the bottom of the sweater, aligning raw edges, and sew in place.

Now you have a comfy sweater without the extra side split!

Happy Sewing!

-Jody

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Short sleeves

Last but certainly not least I wanted to show you how easy it is to take the Sweater Weather from chilly months to hot summer days. It’s as simple as using lighter fabric and making it short sleeves. For my example, I used custom bamboo spandex (my favorite fabric base!). There are not many modifications you need to do to get the look. Simply skip cutting the sleeves and sleeve cuffs when you gather your pieces. 

Sew the shoulder seems and instructed. Press the sleeve opening 1/2″, wrong sides together as shown below. This will create a memory hem. 

Sew the shirt side seams. Using your favorite stretch stitch (I used my coverstitch) hem the sleeves 1/2″. Press again for a crisp look. 

Tadah! Easiest hack ever! Continue sewing your Sweater Weather top as per the tutorial. 

ALTERNATIVE HACK: If you prefer a longer short sleeve, you can band it instead of hemming it. Before sewing the side seams, measure the opening. Cut two bands 4″ tall by the measurement you just did. Sew each band in a loop (at the short ends) using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press length wise, wrong sides together. Sew the shirt side seams. Attach the cuffs to the sleeve opening, matching the side seam. Press and optionally top stitch the seam allowance towards the sleeve. There you have it! A cuffed short sleeve. 

How adorable is Teri? She tested the Sweater Weather top and made herself a tie die short sleeve one too.

How fun and easy were these? We can’t wait to see your take on these hacks. Share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates FB group or on any social media platforms you use! 

Cozy Pants and Wrap – Easy Hacks

Ready to wrap yourself in cozy goodness and cuddle up with those holiday movies and a hot cocoa? I know I am! The Cozy Wrap and Pants are just the perfect addition to your wardrobe. In this Easy Hacks post the P4P blog team is showing you how to achieve more looks using the newly released patterns. Michelle will walk you through adding a yoga waistband to the pants; Dana and Judy are taking the side split “up a notch”…or two. Rachel is bringing her Cozy Wrap up on the fancy chart by making it a dress and Alex is transforming the belt into two sewn-in ties. Let’s get started! 

 

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High pants split 

First up, a super easy hack that doesn’t even need any adjustments to the pattern pieces. Have you seen those cool high side split pants all over Pinterest? You can achieve the look with the Cozy Pants. The pattern includes two side notches, one for shorts and one for pants length. All you have to do is use the shorts side split marking for the pants option. Sew the pants just as in the tutorial. 

These style looks beautiful in lighter weight fabric and tied at the ankles. See how easy it was? 😊

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Duster wrap with high split

I have had a duster cardigan with a high side split like this pinned on my Pinspiration board for a while, now.  I knew I could make it happen with this really easy hack of the new Cozy Cardi and I love how it turned out!

I have a written blog post below, or if you prefer a video I did one of those, too.  You can find it here:

Cut your pieces out and mark your notches.  In this instance you can see the two pins at the top which mark the notches for the waist tie, and then the pin underneath them is the notch for the shirt length side slit, which we’ll be using here with the midi/duster length cardi to get the look we want. 

Then assemble your pattern as per the tutorial.  The only difference being the side seam will have a much longer hem up to the side split notch than the tutorial photos show.

Don’t forget to give those side seams a good press to open them up.  It really helps you get a good finish and helps the hem lay nicely ready for sewing.  You can see the opening for the waist tie here, just above the tip of my iron.

 

Sew up that side seam hem (don’t forget the waist tie opening) and the hack is done.

 

It really is that easy! Now it’s done I have to make a little pair of shorts to wear with it for the spring/summer.  These winter months will fly by, right? Here’s hoping.

Happy sewing!

 

Dana x

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Sewn in ties

Up next I wanted to show you how to make sure you don’t lose your Wrap belt 😉 I decided for my short sleeve option to actually sew the ties in the side seams instead of creating the belt. Start by cutting the 4 pieces for the belt. instead of making one long belt we will create two ties. Sew 2 of the 4 pieces right sides together along the long edges and one of the short ones. Turn the tie right side out through the raw edge. PRESS! Repeat the steps for the other tie. 

Use the belt hole marking on the pattern to place the ties on each side of the back of the Wrap Top as shown below. Align the raw edges. Sandwich the ties in between the right sides of the back and front pieces. Sew in place with your favorite stretch stitch. 

That’s it! Continue sewing the top as instructed in the pattern. Be cautious of the long ties when stitching, you want to make sure you don’t catch them when you sew the other steps. 

Here you go! The look of the Cozy Wrap without the risk or misplacing the belt. You can tie these in the front or the back of your shirt. 

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Wrap Dress

With a few simple pattern modifications. you can use the Cozy Wrap Top to make an adorable dress!

You will be modifying a few pattern pieces that require custom sizing, so please read through the tutorial before cutting your fabric. The modifications will be dependent upon the size that you are making so I can’t provide exact dimensions for this tutorial.

For this dress, I used the knee length pattern pieces as my starting point.

Lengthen your Front pattern pieces to be the same length as the Back. I lined up the armscyes for the Front and Back pieces to determine how much longer I should extend the Front.

From this point, you will follow assembly instructions for the Cozy Top, including belt openings, but omitting the side split. You will sew the side seams together through the bottom hem.

Once you have the front and back of your dress assembled, you will measure the full length of your bottom hem to determine how wide your Bottom Hem Band should be. You will cut a band that is 8” tall by the length of your measurement.

For reference, mine was 53 ½” by 8” tall. You will fold the band in half, with wrong sides together, and sew to the bottom of your dress without stretching, matching raw edges.

Because you’re lengthening the front of your dress, your neckband will be lengthened by the same amount, adding an additional 1” to accommodate the ½” hem on each end.

Add closures of your choice, like snaps, to the neckband and dress front where you feel most comfortable. I wanted my dress to wrap tightly so I placed my closures near the side seams, on both sides. You’ll need to try on your dress to determine where you want your closures to be.

Now you’re ready to go, with no fear of your dress slipping open!

And the best part? You can still wear your dress as a cardigan. I’m crazy about versatile clothing!

Happy making!!

Rachel

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Yoga Waistband

Anyone else can’t resist a good yoga waistband?? I’m not sure what it is about them but I just love them!  The extra support when folded up or comfort and security when folded over.  Either way, it’s a win in my book!  It’s also a super easy hack to add to your cozy pants and I’m going to show you how.  Essentially we are just doubling the height of your waistband.  If you want to wear your band up and are making the high-rise option, I recommend doing a few inches less than half. If you plan to wear it folded down- doubling is perfect for either the high or low rise waist. 

  

First, you’ll want to print and cut out your chosen waistband piece in your size.  

Now grab a few extra pieces of paper and tape them together.

Next, you’ll want to trace your waistband piece onto your new papers (make sure to leave a little extra room at the bottom).

Then you will line up the edge of the waistband with your traced waistband and tape.   Cut that out and it’ll be your new pattern piece.

Cut your fabric with this new pattern piece and attach as directed in the pattern.  You won’t add any drawstrings to this at all.  Then you are done!

Easy peasy and a fun different look.   Perfect for cozy pants or if you want them to lean towards an “athletic” style you can do that too!

Happy Sewing!

-Michelle

Wow! So many sew options to try! Which one will be your first? Be sure to post your Cozy Wrap and Pants in the Facebook group and on Instagram. We can’t wait to see them! 

Vintage Jumper – Easy Hacks

The Vintage Romper is here and we couldn’t be more excited to share with you the blog team’s take on some easy hacks. Grab your patterns and let’s get started!

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Pants/skirt

Do you love shorts like we love shorts?! Then you’re in the right place. I’m going to spend a little time today showing you how to hack the new Vintage Romper into a shorts or skirt only piece. It couldn’t be easier and I have even filmed a little tutorial showing you how to adapt the waistband pattern piece and then put the waistband together too, which you can find here:

However, if you like it old skool here is the written blog post. 

 

First you will want to cut out your skirt or pants pieces as per the regular tutorial. Then take your waistband piece and double the height of it. I used the Youth pattern to make mine and this measured 2 inches in height so I doubled it to make it 4 inches tall and then cut the length out as usual. I wasn’t going to use the strap pieces so I extended the waistband height out over the strap piece here, just to save paper.  Cut your waistband lining piece out in the same way.

 

Waistband piece cut with the height doubled

 

shorts pieces, pockets, waistband outer and lining.

You will then have your pants/shorts/skirt pieces; pockets if using; extended waistband pieces; interfacing if using.  Construct the rest of your garment as usual until you get to the section where you have to attach the waistband. You will attach the waistband as per the tutorial, the only difference being you don’t have the bib and straps to sandwich between the outer and lining of the waistband pieces. So you will attach the waistband outer right sides together with the pants/skirt.

Waistband with overhang

You will have an overhang of the waistband over the edge of the pants piece .  This is correct, it enables you to attach a fastening for the top of the waistband at the end, like a button and buttonhole or poppers. Then sew the lining right sides together with the outer, up one short edge, along the top and down the other short edge.

 Clip your corners, turn it through.

 

Topstitching after pressing

Press and topstitch around the entire waistband. 

Then finish off your garment as per the regular tutorial instructions and you’re done!

We style them with tights, Doc Martins and a crop length Hepburn. I loved it so much on the shorts I had to do it for the skirt too!  

Anyone else find that their child turns into a karate expert as soon as you turn on a camera?!

Obviously you can also just sew this up with the regular height of the original waistband too. The choice is all yours! 

 

Happy sewing! 

 

Dana x

 

 

Front zipper

Up next we wanted to show you a different style jumper that can be achieved with the new Vintage pattern. Let’s add a zipper to the front instead of the side. This a s great opportunity to show off your favorite zippers and pulls. For my example I am using zipper by the yard with a fun rainbow finish zipper pull. I also went with a Doodles French Terry instead of stretch woven. Cut your pattern as instructed in the tutorial. You will make two changes. Remove the part of the waistband beyond the notch on both ends. Repeat for the waistband lining. The other modification would be for the bib. Cut two 2 mirror images instead of 1 set mirror pieces and the lining on fold.

After sewing the darts on the back pants pieces, sew the back crotch seam and the two side seams. The pants will not be sewn at the front crotch just yet.

Prepare the bib by sewing the left side main and lining piece right sides together along the top and slanted side raw edge. Repeat for the ride side bib. You will now have two bib piece that will have raw edges on the vertical center seam and bottom.

Attach the main print waistband to the pants right sides together by matching the center to the center back and the raw edged to the front raw front seam.

Pin the straps matching the strap placement notches. Place the bib on the top edge of the waistband, right sides together matching the raw edges. Repeat on the other side with the other half of the bib. Place the lining on top, right side down, sandwiching the bib in between the main and lining waistband. Stitch in place.

Mark the place of the zipper stop on the wrong sides of the fabric. Place the front of the jumper right sides together matching the front raw edge. Baste in place from the top to the marked point and sew in place down from that point along the front crotch seam. Attach the zipper using the same technique as in the Vintage Jumper tutorial.

Finish your jumper by attaching the straps to the front and hemming. All done! I can’t wait to see your take on this hack.

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Overall buckles

Love the Vintage Jumper, but you’re terrified of button holes? Never fear! Buckles are here!

Adding buckles as a button replacement is an easy and super cute hack… no extra sewing involved!

For the Vintage Jumper, you’ll need 1 ¼” buckles. I ordered mine from WAWAK and they came within 2 days, but you can also order from Amazon or pick them up in your local fabric store.

I’ve put together a video tutorial, but if you prefer written instructions, just scroll a bit further!

Mark your button placement on the bib with tailor’s chalk, 1” from the top and side edge of the bib.

Take your button post and push it through the backside of your bib, at your chalk mark, going through all layers of your fabric.

Protecting the front side of your button (as I’ve done here with a simple cloth bag), hammer the button post into the button.

Thread your straps through the buckles, starting with the top…

Running through the bottom…

Back through the middle…

And behind the front of the strap, back through the top loop.

Give yourself plenty of play in your straps to make fit adjustments

5.     Adjust the straps to your preference and you’re done!

I have always loved overalls! I am so glad to have this updated pair in my wardrobe. As with all Patterns for Pirates makes, you can’t stop with one. I already have the fabric ready to make another pair soon.

I hope you enjoy your new jumper!!

Rachel

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Skip the Zip

If you’d rather skip the zip you can choose a fabric with high stretch and recovery and slip it on/off. It’s a very simple modification, just make sure your fabric is stretchy enough to slip on and off with the snug waistband at natural waist. You will want a fabric that is more stable and can “hold” that waistband shape nicely. Or you can add some 1″ elastic into the waistband to help keep the shape.

Cut out all your pieces the same, except the waistband. You will need to trim off the extra 1″ on each end since we will not have them overlapping for a button. If you’re adding elastic I cut mine just slightly shorter then my new waistband piece so it would be snug to her waist.

Instead of sewing your zip into your side seam you’ll just stitch it up. Stitch your waistband pieces into a circle. If you are adding elastic sew it into a circle as well.

You will follow the same steps as the tutorial attaching the main waistband piece, sandwiching the straps and bib between the main and lining waistband, and top-stitching band. You will just be sewing in a complete circle rather then having the ends that overlap for a button.

All done, now you can just slip it on/off with no zip!

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Zipper Guard

If the feeling of the zipper on your skin bothers you- you can add a simple zipper guard quickly and easily. You will cut out 2 rectangles (you can curve the bottom edge if you’d like I did or leave it a rectangle) a little longer (1-2″) then your zipper and about 2″ wide.

Stitch your pieces right sides together along one long and short edge like a L (J if you curved your corner like me) shape. Trim seam allowance and flip right sides out. Press and stitch.

Place your zipper guard along the side seam with zipper with the raw edges aligned to the seam allowance of the front pant/skirt. Stitch guard to seam allowance (do not stitch through pant/skirt).

Pin in place from front. Stitch in the ditch along your zipper seam on the front pant/skirt through the zipper guard.

You can also continue to stitch in the ditch across the bottom and up just a little to help keep the guard in place when taking on/off. This is what it will look like after with the zipper guard keeping the zip from touching your skin:

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Add some Ears

Adding a little face and ears is always a way to make my daughter super happy with something I sew her. She requested a kitty for this one after seeing one similar at a store. It was such an easy little modification. I simple free-handed the ears… but we do have some ears in the Oversized Sweater-Youth pattern and I used the faces from our free Animal Faces for our Jolly Roger Raglan. I only freehanded the ears to make sure they fit perfectly and…. well… I didn’t want to print anything 😉

Stitch the ears up and sandwich them between the main and lining bib. Ta-da… that’s it! So cute and simple!

What an amazing line up! We look forward to seeing  your own “”hacked” Vintage Jumper  creations on Facebook and Insta.

The Peg Event :: VBack Waistband Hack for the Peg Legs Update!

Welcome back to another day of The Peg Event! We hope you are loving our newest release of the Peg Legs – Colorblock Pack and update to the beloved Peg Legs, and Peg Legs – Add-On Pack!

Before we get to the main event, I’d like to remind you that we’ve got a sitewide sale happening from now until Saturday, September 12.  In addition to that, we’ve got an awesome giveaway happening, with 14 amazing prizes (and 14 amazing prize winners)!  You can read all about The Peg Event HERE.

 

Colorblock Pack Waistband Hack for the Original Peg Legs Pattern

 

So you love the new contoured waistband of the colorblock pack, but want to keep the legs quick and simple?  Here’s the hack on how to use the original Peg Legs with the new colorblock pack waistband.  You can use either the plain contoured waistband or with all the fun pockets too. 

First, assemble the original Peg Legs pattern and Colorblock pack. You will only need the Colorblock Pack Back – 1 Piece.  Aligning at the back rise and crotch curve, place back colorblock piece on the original Peg Legs pattern piece.  Note, the pattern piece should align at the mid-rise cutline as the contoured waistband is drafted to fit the lower rise and finish high rise at the natural waist.  

 

Trim the original Peg Leg pattern piece back rise or re-trace to create your new Peg Legs pattern piece. 

 

 

Cut and assemble the legs as per the original Peg Leg instructions and using the waistband instructions from the colorblock pack. I used the back pocket option and our FOE hack for the version shown below. 

 

Easy right?!? Now you can add an extra style of leggings to your closet.  I especially love how the V back fits with the booty 😉 Don’t forget to share your version, we’d love to see all your Pegs!

Here are some links to all of our FREE leggings patterns, so you can get to sewing!

PEG LEGS | PEG LEGS – ADD-ON PACK | PEG LEGS – COLORBLOCK PACK

But wait!  There’s more!  We’ve got a giveaway prize to tell you about!  Sponsoring today’s portion of The Peg Event is a fabulous fabric company!

SO SEW ENGLISH FABRICS – https://sosewenglishfabrics.com/
INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK GROUP

By offering a diverse mix of quality and affordable fabrics, So Sew English strives to inspire creativity and make the dream of self-made fashion a reality for everyone. A few of their most popular fall leggings fabrics are their Bamboo Spandex French Terry, their Jean Denim Cotton Spandex French Terry and of course their Double Brushed Poly.
 
One lucky winner will be walking away with a $75 gift card.  And on top of that, SSE is having a 20% off site-wide Labor Day Sale that ends tonight 9/9 at 11:59pm PDT. *some exclusions apply.  Use code: LABORDAY

**Daily and Grand Prize winners will all be announced together on Sunday, September 13.

 

The Peg Event :: FOE Pocket Hack for the Peg Legs – Colorblock Pack

Welcome back to another day of The Peg Event! We hope you are loving our newest release of the Peg Legs – Colorblock Pack and update to the beloved Peg Legs, and Peg Legs – Add-On Pack!

Before we get to the main event, I’d like to remind you that we’ve got a sitewide sale happening from now until Saturday, September 12.  In addition to that, we’ve got an awesome giveaway happening, with 14 amazing prizes (and 14 amazing prize winners)!  You can read all about The Peg Event HERE.

Our Fabulous Group Admin + Tester Extraordinaire, Dana Cole, is being extra amazing today and bringing us an easy hack for the new Peg Legs – Colorblock Pack.  Take it away, Dana!

FOE Pocket Hack for the Peg Legs – Colorblock Pack

If, like me, you made about a million Fierce Bras you probably have lots of leftover bits of Fold Over Elastic (FOE) hanging around in your elastics box.  Using FOE to bind the top of the pockets in the new v-contour waistband, or the side pockets of the side colour-block Pegs released during the previous update helps give them even greater stability.  I have been for several runs in my new Peg Legs with my phone in the pocket and it has stayed secure the entire time. It’s so easy, here’s how to do it.

First cut out your pattern pieces as normal and then grab your FOE.  I used ½” here but you could use a ¼” if you have that too.

In the new v-contour waistband there are two pockets which sit on top of one another over the centre back panel piece.  I am using the smaller pocket, which sits on the outermost layer for our example today.  The fabric is a swim knit, which I love to use for running Pegs.

Make sure you exercise your elastic really well. Then lay it down next to the top of your pocket and cut it to the same length.

Then sandwich the raw edge of the top of your fabric inside the FOE, so the FOE folds down over the top and covers the front and back equally.

Pin/clip in place.  I like to use a glue marker here at either end to stop the elastic from shifting when you start to sew and remove the pins/clips.  I use these all the time when sewing slippery or delicate fabrics.

I like to use a triple zig zag stitch when topstitching elastic on swimwear, sports or lingerie.  It’s not only a great stretchy stitch but because it is so wide it also helps keep that elastic down and stops it from flipping up, which is what happens if you don’t sew close enough to the edge.

Make sure your needle when it swings to the left comes right to the edge of the elastic.  This helps stop it flipping up too.

All done!   Now just assemble your other pocket, if you are using it, the same way and then construct the rest of your Peg Legs as per the tutorial.

Enjoy your new Pegs!!


I like this one for my phone…and this one for my keys!

Thanks and happy sewing, Dana xx

Here are some links to all of our FREE leggings patterns, so you can get to sewing!

PEG LEGS | PEG LEGS – ADD-ON PACK | PEG LEGS – COLORBLOCK PACK

But wait!  There’s more!  We’ve got a giveaway prize to tell you about!  Sponsoring today’s portion of The Peg Event is a fabulous fabric company!

SLY FOX FABRICS – www.slyfoxfabrics.com
INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK GROUP

Sly Fox Fabrics is the best source for affordable, luxurious apparel fabrics.  We offer a range of apparel fabrics, including buttery soft Double Brushed Poly which is perfect for soft, cozy Peg Legs!

One lucky winner will walk away with a $50 Gift Card to their shop!  And on top of that, you can enjoy a 20% Discount thru 9/12/20 by using the code: PegLegMania

The two fabrics featured in the image above can be found here: Heavy Double Brushed Poly Solid – Black | Double Brushed Poly – Field of Dreams

**Daily and Grand Prize winners will all be announced together on Sunday, September 13.

X Factor Top and Dress Easy Hacks

 

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Mini or Peplum options

First easy hack that we waned to show you is how to shorten the X Factor dress to a peplum top or mini dress. For my example I decided to make a running dress with a mini skirt. I used swim fabric for this cute green dress.

You will start by grabbing the skirt pattern and marking your new cut lines, one for peplum and one for mini skirt. I used the Sweetheart dress skirt as my guide since that one includes all 3 option. The Sweetheart skirt is a full circle while the X Factor one is a half circle. Lay the X Factor pattern piece on top of the Sweetheart pattern matching the bottom edge. 

Mark the new cutting line starting with the “fold” edge. Using a French curve, or if you have a steady arm, just your hand, draw the two new curves. Make sure that you keep a constant distance from the bottom edge on both sides of the pattern. If you do not have the Sweetheart dress pattern you can measure 5″ up from the bottom for the Mini or 10.25″ up for the Peplum option. 

Once you created your new pattern piece, cut your fabric and sew the dress a instructed in the tutorial. I skipped hemming my swim skirt so mine final mini look is 1″ longer than intended. Your dress, your call! 😉

 

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Tie Back

Crop tops are back in a big way and the X Factor Crop is such a standout! It will take you from the gym to date night (if you’re not too sweaty, of course!)… there aren’t many garments that can do that!

The Patterns for Pirates team always loves to give you even more options. I’m so excited to share with you a tie-back hack for the X Factor! And, it really couldn’t be simpler.

Assemble and cut your preferred pattern pieces. For this make, I chose the cropped tank.

Modifications are so simple!

You will square up the cross-over pieces of the Front Bodice…


And cut 2 of the Back Band pieces (on the fold).

Assemble the top per the pattern instructions, stopping at the step for attaching the Back Band.

From here, you’ll attach your two band pieces, one to each end of the bodice cross-over.

At this step, I serged all of my edges. That is a matter of preference! You can leave them raw if you prefer.

Finally, finish all edges with a narrow hem.

Throw your top on, tie it up, and get ready to turn heads… no matter where you are! You can even experiment with tying and wrapping your top in different ways.

You’ve got the X Factor!!

  

 

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Separates

We couldn’t let this Easy Hacks series end without a separates option, especially since the top is already a stand alone pattern. So for the separated you just need to finish the skirt waist without attaching it to the top. You can do that in various ways. I opted for a simple waistband. I cut 2 of the back band pieces. After pressing them wrong sides together, open them back up and sew the two ends RST to create a loop. 

If your waistband piece has excellent recovery and stretch you can continue marking the quarter points. If you’re not sure, I would add 1-1.5″ wide elastic in the waistband to make sure it stays on throughout the day. 

Mark the skirt quarter point and pin the waistband to it matching said points. Attach the waistband using your favorite stretch stitch. All done. You just created a half circle skirt that pairs beautifully with the X Factor Crop top and not only. 

 

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Nursing friendly  

 

Last but certainly not least Djem is showing us how to modify the X Factor dress to make it nursing friendly. 

 
Prep the front bodice, add lightweight interfacing to the triangle notches. Complete the bodice per tutorial. 
Add elastic to the top of the front skirt using a zigzag stitch. Measure the top of the front skirt and multiply by 90% to get the elastic measurement. I found 1/2” and 3/8” wide elastic to work nicely. Optionally, serge the top of the skirt, without cutting anything off, to have a nicer finish. Continue with the tutorial for the pockets and sewing the skirt side seams. 
 
  Now the fun part! When attaching the skirt to the bodice, drop the front of the skirt at the side seams. 
 
 Find the center of the front skirt and mark. Sew the triangle notches on the bodice together with a stretch stitch. Pin or clip the bodice notches with the center of the front skirt. 
 Tack the bodice notches and skirt together. Keep your tack on the elastic. 
Voilà! 

Sunflower and Busy Bee Easy Hacks

It’s swimsuit season! The new Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms are the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. Dana is showing you below how to make a longer ruffle while Rachel is taking the Sunflower Top and making is shorter. Enjoy these cute easy hacks! 

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Longer Ruffle

This is a really easy hack if you want a little extra tummy coverage or just want the look of a longer ruffle. 

Cut out all your pattern pieces as usual but when you come to the ruffle you will cut it a little differently. First of all you will want to decide how wide you want your ruffle to be.

I measured the original piece which is 2 inches wide and I decided that I wanted to increase this to 5 inches wide.

I simply laid my perspex quilting ruler out over the pattern piece and used it to help cut out the original length and the increased width. 

Here is my finished ruffle.  Measuring 5 inches wide, in comparison to the original pattern piece.

Then just sew it together as usual. Easy peasy! 

Happy sewing! Love, Dana x

 

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Shorter Top

Forget the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-yellow-polka-dot bikini… bananas are so much more fun!

Here’s how you modify the pattern for Sunflower Swim Top if you’d like to sport a shorter length. You’ll be modifying the pattern pieces, but the actual construction of the top will follow the pattern instructions as written.

You’ll need the front and back pattern pieces and the shelf bra pattern piece.

With both the front and the back pieces, it is most important to preserve the curves at the bottom of the pieces. You’ll see how I did that in the pictures provided.

Cut the back piece into thirds as indicated in the photo below. You’ll be discarding the center piece.

Take the top and bottom thirds and line up the bottoms of the cut-out curve, where you see the green line in the pic. Tape together. I added a little snipe of paper, where the green circle is, to help visually with cutting my fabric.

And that completes your new back pattern piece.

Line up your front and back pattern pieces and mark the bottom of the back piece on your front piece. This will ensure that your front and back pieces line up when you’re constructing the top.

Place your shelf bra pattern piece on top of your front pattern piece and line up the “fold” edges. The left edge of the shelf bra piece should intersect the mark you made on the previous step.

Trace the bottom edge of the shelf bra and cut along this line to create your new front piece.

Once you have your pattern pieces ready, construct your top with the instructions provided. You can even work in a shelf bra at this length if you desire.

Isn’t sewing for yourself so much fun? I can’t wait to rock these bananas at the pool!

 

Rachel

Which one of these hacks will you try first? As always, post your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group so we all get a chance to admire them. 

Runabout Romper – easy hacks

It’s here! It’s here! The Runabout Romper and Dress patterns (adult and youth) and jam packed with option but we couldn’t let this release pass without adding a few more. The P4P bloggers will show you how to make separate pieces, paperbag shorts, looser pants, slimmer shorts, button front and tunic length. Let’s take a look! 

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Separates 

 

I absolutely fell in love with the off the shoulder neckline of the  Runabout Romper but wanted it in shirt form for non-romper days.  So, of course, an easy hack was needed and I now have the coziest sweatshirt ever.   It’s so easy to do!   First, start by printing just your top pieces, putting together, and cutting them out. 

Now you are going to want to turn them into full-length top pieces.   To do this, first- add a few blank pieces to the bottom of your pattern piece lined up along your fold line. 

Then go ahead and grab your favorite p4p top that has the length you want, I chose the banded sporty piko.   Alternatively, you can measure from your natural waist to where you’d like it to hit (don’t forget to take in account the seam allowance built in the waist).  

Lay the top of your chosen pattern piece on top of your romper top piece lining up your shoulder and the side seam (your actual widths may be different).  

Make sure your pieces are straight and trace the bottom of your piece to get the length you want for your top and up the side of your piece. Repeat with the other piece and cut out along where you traced and you’ll have two new full-length shirt pieces. 

Sew together as directed by the pattern and either hem your top or if you are banding your shirt you’ll simply measure the bottom of your new top all the way around and multiply that by .85 plus seam allowance to get the width of your new band.  I can’t wait to see your cozy shirts!! 

Happy Sewing, 

Michelle

 

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Paperbag Shorts

 

I absolutely love the paperbag waist trend that is so popular right now! The cinching is universally flattering for all figures.

Once you’ve mastered the Runabout Romper waistband, you can easily turn the pattern bottoms into pants or shorts with this cute ruffle feature. And I’m here to show you how to do it!

Start by cutting the bottom pieces to your preferred length. I’ve decided to make shorts for this tutorial.

Sew the pants or shorts pieces together per the pattern instructions.

Now for your waistband…

Add an inch in height when you cut your waistband pieces… instead of 2” tall waistband pieces, yours will be 3” tall.

If installing grommets, you will mark your fabric and add those to your outer waistband where indicated by the pattern piece.

Next, take your inner waistband piece and stitch with right sides together, stopping 1” above the bottom of the band. Press the seams to one side.

This opening will become your entry point when you install your elastic waistband.

Stitch your inner and outer waistband pieces, right sides together, along the top edge per the pattern instructions.

Open with right sides out, wrong sides together, and press your top seam to the inside. You may wish to topstitch this edge for a crisper finish.

Sew a second seam 1” down from the top edge.

Sew your waistband to your shorts or pants per the pattern instructions and complete your bottoms accordingly. Enjoy!!!

I’ve paired my shorts here with a Hepburn top. Cute, cute, cute!!

 

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Tunic/top 

 

Hi, I’m going to show you how easy it is to make the new Runabout Romper as a tunic/top instead of a dress. 

First of all you will want to decide how long you want to have the skirt portion, as this is going to determine how long your top is. You could make the bodice first and attach the waistband onto it (just safety pin your elastic together to try on) and measure how far you would like the front of your top to come down, or you could just be brave and guestimate. 

 In this picture you can see I’m wearing my Runabout Romper dress, which was perfect because I could use the waistband on it to help gauge how long I wanted the top to be.  There are two ways to make your top, either with a straight hem or keeping the curve of the dress hem. I chose to keep the curve. Hold the front skirt pattern piece up to your body and make a mark when it’s at the right height, don’t forget you’ll need to add a combined 1 1/2″ for the seam allowance at the waist and the hem allowance.

Using the mark I just made on the paper at the fold line, I then measure and make the same mark at the other side of the pattern piece at the outside seam line and rule a line across. For me, this mark was 10 inches down from the top edge of the pattern piece. Then repeat for the back piece. Fold the top of both pieces down (you might need to flip a corner out of the way by the curved hem edge) and you have your new top length pattern pieces. 

If you want a straight hem to your top, you  just have to fold the bottom of the pattern piece up to get rid of the curve, rather than the top of the pattern piece down to keep the curve.

Cut your fabric out using your new pattern pieces and construct as per the Tutorial. 

Enjoy!

Dana xx

 

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Slimmer fit shorts

 

The jogger shorts are some of my favorite shorts. They’re fitted but not too fitted–they have the perfect amount of ease in my humble opinion and as we enter the hot summer, they were screaming to be added to this romper! It’s such a super easy hack that you’ll be cranking out Runabout Jogger Short Rompers super fast. 

Let’s get into it!

  1. Print out your bodice option and the jogger patterns. 
  2. Decide what you’d like your inseam to be and add .5 in for the seam allowance. I did a 4″ inseam here so I measured out 4.5″ from the crotch curve. Draw a line from the inseam to the outseam. Do this on both the front and back pieces.
  3. Cut the new pattern piece.
  4. Assemble per the instructions. 
  5. Enjoy your super cute and cool new romper!

                                                                        …..                                                                      

Straight pants

 

I absolutely love the look of a wide-leg jumpsuit, and this hack gives me exactly the look I’ve been looking for! 

First off, we need to make our new pant leg pattern pieces using the existing front and back shorts pieces. I laid mine on top of the jogger legs as a guide for length. Using a straight edge and marker, I drew a straight line down from either side of the shorts pieces, ending 3 1/2” below where the jogger piece ended (this is to account for the added length of the jogger cuff). After doing this for both front and back pieces, you now are ready to cut out your new wide-legged pants!

Sew up the romper as directed, hemming pant legs 1”. Now take a step back and admire your new trendy jumpsuit!                                                                                                                                                     

                                                                                                                  

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Faux buttons placket

 

Inspired once again by Pintrest and a photo Katy showed me, I made myself a faux button up Runabout romper. Want to see how I did it? Keep reading! 

I cut the pieces exactly as in the pattern, except for the front bodice. The front bodice will not be cut on fold but will be two mirrored images. Using a ruler, add 1.5″ extra width to the center of the front bodice. Cut two mirror images!

If you are using a projector, like I am, simply place a ruler along the fold line to measure the 1.5″. Cut along the ruler for the center bodice. 

Turn the two bodice pieces wrong side up and fold 1/2″ along the center, press. Fold again another half an inch and press again. If you are adding faux buttons like I am, you don’t really need interfacing. If you plan on adding real buttons and make buttonholes, or add snaps then you should add a 1/2″ wide strip of interfacing along both sides of the front bodice. 

Sew the folded hems down with a scant 1/2″ seam allowance. 

Time to make the neckband. Fold it in half width wise and then again length wise. Curve the raw edge as shown below. You will now have a long necknand, Henley style. Fold it again along the length and press. 

 

Overlap the center fold of the bodice 1/2″ and pin it in place. You will now treat that piece as the front bodice from the pattern. Sew the dress or romper as in the tutorial. Pin the neckband starting with back center and working your way to the two fronts. Sew in place with 1/2″ seam allowance using a stretch stitch or your serger.  

Now it’s the time to decide if you want a real button up or just the look of one. The buttons do not need to be functional, they can be there just for looks. I have sewn the buttons through all layers about 1.5″ away from each other. The top button is only attached to one side, just a personal style preference. Super easy! If you would like functional closures you will sew buttons on one side and button holes on the other. 

All done!! Time to enjoy your new romper! 

Hope you enjoyed these easy mods to the Runabout pattern as much as we enjoyed making them for you. Don’t forget to show off your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group or #p4p on Instagram so we can admire them too. 

Classic Sports Bra – Easy Hacks

The newest P4P pattern is a must have for work out aficionados and not only! So many options are already included but you know us, we have to add just a few more to our easy hack blog. This time, the P4P blog team will show you how to make the Classic Sports Bra with a solid front, an exposed elastic and without a clasp but still having the cut out. Let’s get started!

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Solid Front

 

 

One of my favorite attributes of the Classic Sports Bra is the colorblocked front. But let’s say you have a favorite panel or fabric that you want to show off and you rather not have 3 front pieces…create your own “one piece solid front.

 

 

Overlap the three front pieces 3/8″ as show above. The overlap will be 3/4″ – the total of the two seam allowances. Scotch tape the 3 pieces together or trace them to create a new one. Now that you created a new pattern piece, simply cut it from your main fabric and proceed to cutting all the other pieces of the pattern (back, linings, band, elastic).

Sew the bra as instructed in the tutorial and enjoy your brand new creation. Easy peasy!

For my solid front Classic Sports Bra I used cotton lycra for both the main and the lining. It makes the most comfortable lounging bra ever!!!

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Exposed Elastic

Sometimes you find cute or extra special elastic and you want to show it off! It’s a super easy modification to stitch on the elastic without the knit band so it is exposed.  If you have the Fierce Bra you can follow those instructions.  Just make sure if you’re using a hook and eye bra closure option that your elastic width coordinates perfectly with your clasp size.

I had ordered this navy elastic with silicone stripes on the underside to help it stay in place and have been wanting to try it out on a sports bra…so here was a great opportunity!  You can also find elastic with prints or words on them as well.

Sew up your bra exactly as you would until the underbust band steps.

Mark your center front of your sports bra and your center of your elastic.

Pin your elastic onto the sports bra with the top edge of the elastic 3/8″ away from the sports bra’s bottom raw edge. (Tip- I like to baste my sports bra around the bottom edge 3/8″ away so I have a clear marking to follow).  You do not need to stretch either the elastic or the sports bra at all.

Stitch the elastic in place using your favorite high stretch stitch (mine is a triple step zigzag).

If you’re using the hook and eye bra closure option attach bra clasps just the same as the tutorial.

Now enjoy!

Judy

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No Clasp, Cut Out Back

 

To create a sports bra that has the keyhole back detail, but without the bra closure, you’ll need to make one small change when cutting your pieces, and a few minor adjustments when sewing on the band.  When cutting out your pieces, you can go ahead and cut out all the front and back pieces from the main and lining as you normally would, but then you’ll need to create a new bottom band piece for the elastic casing.  The new band piece you will be using for this hack needs to be the WIDTH of the full back option band, and the LENGTH of the bra closure option band.  You can either mash the two pattern pieces together, or simply use the measurements from the cut chart. I find using the cut chart quicker and easier than mashing the two pattern pieces.  Again, make sure you use the WIDTH of the Full back piece, and the LENGTH of the bra closure piece. For the elastic, make sure you cut the elastic itself the width of the full back option as well.

After cutting, you will assemble the sports bra according to the pattern up until the point of attaching the band.  For this hack, you will take your band piece, and fold it right sides together lining up the short ends, and sew together.  I prefer to use my sewing machine so I can press the seam open and reduce bulk here.

Your band should be the same width as the bottom of the sports bra.  Using the seam as the back center point, quarter the band and mark the front center and sides.  Match up these points on the bra and mark them as well.  I also like to mark the outsides of the cutout to make sure the band gets even attached.

Slide your band inside your bra, lining up the RIGHT SIDE of the band against the lining.

 

Sew or serge your band onto the bra, sewing all the way around even across the opening to give a nice edge for folding the binding there.  After it has been sewn on, pull the band down and press seam allowance down as well.

Go ahead and stitch your elastic closed in a loop, by overlapping the ends and zigzagging to secure together.  The elastic should also be the same width as the band.  Slide the elastic up over the band.

 You will then need to fold the bottom ¼” of your band up and press flat, and then fold up and over the elastic encasing the elastic. 

 Pin (and/or clip) the band all the way around the bra, making sure you have fully covered the seam allowance. 

Edge stitch all the way around, then put that comfy, cute bra on and ROCK IT! 

Happy Sewing!

Jody

Now that you have seen how easy it is to get 3 more options for the Classic Sports Bra, go sew yourself or your little one, one! 🙂 We would love to see your creations so share them in our P4P Facebook group too or hash tag #patternsforpirates on Instagram.

 

Flutter Wrap SAL day 1

Welcome to our Flutter Wrap Sew Along!

Day One is reserved to purchasing the pattern, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Flutter Wrap here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Flutter Wrap Youth can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle. If you can’t decide which style to make, our Round Up blog will give you a glance at all options included with the pattern.

This sew along will be held in the the M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the Flutter Wrap patterns but also to post your progress this week. Don’t be shy about asking questions or suggestions, we are a helpful bunch. 🙂

Now that you purchased the pattern(s), print the size needed. In order to do that it is very important that you take your most accurate measurements. You will need your waist, hips and chest measurements in order to choose the correct Flutter Wrap size. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

You can see in the video below how I blend two sizes to make my Flutter Wrap knee length with flounce a flutter sleeves. Once you cut your pattern pieces post “done” in the comments of day 1 photo of the Flutter Wrap Sew Along album in the SAL group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this comment will count as your daily check in.

 

Flutter Wrap SAL day 1 | Print and cut pattern

Flutter Wrap SAL day 2 | Cut fabric

Flutter Wrap SAL day 3 | Sew back, shoulder and side seams

Flutter Wrap SAL day 4 | Sew sleeves or tank binding

Flutter Wrap SAL day 5 | Add neckline binding and waist ties

Flutter Wrap SAL day 6 | Finish skirt

Flutter Wrap SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

 

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