Patterns for Pirates

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Sweetheart SAL Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves

March 17, 2016

So.  You’ve printed your pattern, figured out your size, and now cut your fabric.  What’s next?

Let’s get to sewing!  Today is about the top half of your pattern.  We are going to stitch your bodice together.  And we’ve got a trick to get a lower neckline (if that’s what you’re wanting in your pattern) as well as a sleeveless option for the Me Hearties pattern.  Let’s get to it!

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There are a ton of options for the bodice part of the Sweetheart/Me Hearties dresses.  You can colorblock, do an overlay, choose your sleeve lengths, use FOE (fold over elastic)/trim/t-shirt neckband bindings, etc.  Pick your poison when it comes to how you want to style your dress.  The sky is the limit!

But let’s say that you wanted a lower neckline than what the pattern calls for.  Can we do it?  YES WE CAN!

I have a larger than average bust and tend to like a lower neckline on my shirts.  Luckily, when you sew for yourself, this is super simple to do.  Cut your front bodice piece out and determine where you’d like the neckline to sit.

**Keep in consideration your neckline finishing.  For this particular top, I used a standard tshirt binding for the neck.  But using FOE or trim will give you a wider neckline opening.  So just make your adjustments according to your final vision for your top/dress.

P4P SAL-003 copy

Because we are adjusting the actual size of the opening, we will need to figure out new measurements for the neckband.  Once your front and back bodices are pieces are sewn together at the shoulder, fold your piece out flat at the neckline.  Without stretching your fabric, lay it flat and measure the opening.  Multiply that number by 2.  This is your new neckline circumference.

P4P SAL-005 copy

But what is your new neckband/FOE length requirements?
Neckline circumference X .85 + 1″ (for seam allowance) = Neckband/FOE length

Use your new length and finish the neckline however you’d like!

Sweetheart SAL-024

~SLEEVELESS AND OPTIONAL NECKLINE AND ARMHOLE FINISHING METHODS~

The girls Me Hearties does not have a tank option in the pattern but we are going to show you how to hack it… two ways!  You can also apply these methods to the Sweetheart if you want a wider sleeveless option as well.

For both methods, you will calculate the bands the same.  For consistency and as shown in the pattern, I did the bands in the flat.   You can do it in the round if you prefer but will need to adjust your band measurements to include a seam allowance (like the neckband measurement shown above).  If using the Trim Method, trim your pattern pieces first, then calculate your armbands.

How to calculate armband measurements: Sew one shoulder seam with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Measure the armscye (as shown below) and multiply by .85.

Me Hearties PDF Pattern measure armscye

TRIM METHOD:  For this method, you will use your existing pattern pieces for the bodice (either the full front and back bodice or the top front and back of the color-block) and trim 1/2″ off each armscye.  Proceed with the instructions in your pattern  and use your favorite method to finish the neckline and armholes. (FOE, traditional knit binding, or lingerie elastic)

Me Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless option

HIDDEN SEAM TURNED FACING ARMBANDS:armbands

(I also used the same method on my neckline.  Note: This will lower your neckline by 1/2″)

Me Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless option                                   armbands3

Me Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless optionMe Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless option

 

 

ay 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Filed Under: Sew-A-Long 4 Comments

Sweetheart SAL Day 3: Cutting Fabric

March 16, 2016

Welcome back!  So far, we’ve learned how to pick the perfect fabrics and get the perfect fit.  And today, we are diving right in and cutting into your beautiful fabrics.  And we are also going to be sharing TWO new options for the skirt portion.  So before you cut, maybe you’ll want to consider these “hacks” as well!

Let’s get started!

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The circle skirt is the trickiest part of the pattern to cut.  But once you realize how to fold your fabric for cutting, it is actually pretty easy!  The pattern includes a full circle skirt and has the option to cut with a pattern piece, or to save on some paper and just cut with a small guide and your own measurement.

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I prefer to cut my own circle skirt length, by just using the cut out piece provided.  It gives me full control of the length I really want.  But it is purely preference in this case.  When you are using the cut out, make sure you’re measuring from the end of the circle you’d cut out…and not from the corner of your folded fabric.  Otherwise your length will be off by several inches.  (Ask me how I know this.)

We wanted to provide a couple of fun alternates for your circle skirts.  So before you cut into your fabric, consider these alternatives!

Alternate #1: Full Circle Skirt with Waistband.

You can take the skirt portion of the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns, skip the bodice, and add a waistband.  And it’s super easy to do!  We are providing you with measurements for a yoga-style waistband…no elastic required.

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Alternate #2: High-Low Skirt

Getting a higher cut in the front, and lower dip in the back of a circle skirt is SO EASY.  It’s as simple as moving the waist cut-out to a different place on the skirt itself.  Three steps and you’ll have a fishtail-esque skirt!  (This would also work well with the skirt-only adjustment that we explained above. ^^^)

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1.) Open up your skirt so you’re seeing a folded semi-circle.  Slide the very top layer until it’s the length that you want for the front of your skirt (be sure to take into account the waist cutout!).  Sturdier fabrics are way easier to handle with this process.  My skirt above was a slinky rayon blend and it took a lot of patience to get into place.  So go slow.  Make sure everything is flat and even before you make your cut!

2.) Carefully, fold your skirt in half again, so that it is quartered.  You will be back to four layers of fabric, just like when you were originally cutting the circle.  Take your waist cut-out piece and cut your opening.

3.) Open up your skirt.  You should now see a large circle with a smaller waist circle cut out, somewhere off center.  Your high-low skirt is now ready to attach to the bodice!

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Is your fabric all prepped, cut and ready for tomorrow’s next step?
Show us your pretty stack of fabrics, just begging to be sewn into something amazing!  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  And don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We are having a blast sewing with you this week!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Filed Under: Sew-A-Long 8 Comments

Sweetheart SAL Day 2: Printing + Measuring

March 15, 2016

Welcome back to the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long.  Let’s get Day #2 started!

Today is all about printing and assembling your pattern.  And measuring yourself correctly, so we make sure to get the best fit.

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Patterns for Pirates patterns have lots of little extras for you.  First, the newest files are set up with a “layers” feature.  You can read all about how to access the layers HERE.

And on top of that, they are “no-trim” pages.  And that’s exactly what it sounds like!  The pages are set up to print and be taped/glued together without needing to get scissors out and trim the edges before assembly.  It makes this step of the process even quicker.  Need help assembling the no-trim pages?  No problem!  Judy created this fabulous video for us.  Go check it out HERE. (You have to be a member of the P4P Facebook group to be able to see the video.)

Before you hit print, BE SURE that your pages are set to print at 100%, no scaling.  We still recommend printing only the first page and measuring your 1″ x 1″ (or 4cm x 4cm) square to verify the print size is correct before printing the entire pattern.  Even if your square is off by the teeniest amount, the entire pattern will be affected and your dress will not fit.  Save yourself some ink and paper (and fabric!) and verify the settings first.

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (4)

Now let’s talk measuring yourself!

Judy created an entire post dedicated to measurements and how to properly measure yourself.  You can see the full post HERE.  However, since the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns have a full circle skirt, which makes it very forgiving in the hips, the most important fit aspect of this pattern is the bodice.

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Full Bust: Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust.  You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

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Over Bust: This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

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Under Bust: This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

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Waist: This is your natural waistline.  Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants).  It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section.  If you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section.  Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on  your smallest part.

This is your natural waist :)

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Side Waist Length: Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist.  This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist. (Ahem, Sweetheart Dress!) Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit.  If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage. 😉

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Start with your arms DOWN. You want your tape to start where your crease naturally lies— not all the up to your arm.  Think where you’d like your shirt to be (if it’s all the way up as tight as possible then it is uncomfortable and you can’t move your arms around).

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

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What if you’re taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted for?

The Sweetheart dress was designed for the average “side waist length” of 8 inches.  If you measure more or less than that, it’s incredibly important to adjust your pattern to fit your body properly.

We recommend to adjust differently, based upon your bust size.  If you have a smaller/larger bust than the pattern is drafted for, make your height adjustments at the bust line.  If your bust measurements are the same, add or remove the length below your bust line.

What if your measurements don’t fall within one size?

That is why you’re sewing for yourself, isn’t it?  To get the perfect fit?  Well then let’s get that perfect fit!

Let’s say your measurements fall in a “medium” bust and a “large” waist.  Cut the pattern out, by grading between the two sizes.  Before cutting, simply draw a line on your paper pattern, blending the sizes at a midpoint. You want your line as smooth as possible between to the two sizes.

 

grading sizes

WHEW!  Did you soak in all of that information?
Hopefully now, your pattern is printed, taped/glued together, you have properly measured for your size, cut the pattern pieces out and are ready to start cutting into your pretty fabrics tomorrow.  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  Don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page either: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Filed Under: Sew-A-Long 4 Comments

Sweetheart SAL: Day 1 – Fabric Selection

March 14, 2016

Welcome to Day 1 of the P4P Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long!  We are so glad you’re here.

Today, we are talking fabric.  Let’s be honest, if you’re here, fabric is probably your favorite thing to talk about already.  So this is going to be a fun topic.  Let’s get started!

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Fabric choice can really make or break a garment.  Not just the color or pattern, but the kind of fabric you use.

There are so many fabrics out there that you can get lost in the different options.  What helps is to familiarize yourself with how the fabric will look once it’s on you (how it will drape and fit).  Feeling fabric for the amount of stretch, thickness, and drape will help you pair it with the right pattern.

So what is the right fabric for the Sweetheart pattern?

We highly recommend a more stable knit.  Ponte de roma, jegging, scuba, liverpool, and thicker cotton lycras are fabulous for this pattern, specifically because of the circle skirt.  Fabrics with a higher drape will still work, but beware that the skirt could end up being a bit more clingy that you were hoping.

For the overlays and colorblocked top pieces, feel free to use any of the above listed fabrics, as well as stretch lace, mesh knits, rayon blends, etc.

Ponte de Roma: (or ponte, ponte roma, ponte di roma, etc) This fabric is a double knit in construction, and tends to look the same on both sides.  It’s a sturdy knit, generally with a horizontal stretch only, although can sometimes also be found with a vertical stretch.  It’s made up of poly, rayon and spandex blend (the more rayon the softer the feel).  It can pill easily, but if you hang dry should last you with normal wear.  The rayon gives it a good drape still, see how the skirt falls towards the body.

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Jegging: Typically thought to be used for skinny pants and other bottoms, jegging is a medium-weight stretch fabric.  You can also find it labeled “denim knit” in some shops. Often, it has a denim-style look (think blues and blacks) and is meant to mimic jeans while keeping the comfort of stretch fabric.  It has some vertical stretch.  Weight of jegging knit can vary widely, so if you’re using it for the sweetheart you want to keep it a bit thicker.

P4P Sweetheart Dress-007 P4P Sweetheart Dress-008

Scuba: A highly structured, one sided fabric, made of neoprene (with a sleek surface, much like a scuba outfit).  Typically only has a horizontal stretch and is easy to sew with, however isn’t the most breathable fabric.  These types of knits have a great stretch and recovery, like ponte does, but doesn’t have as soft of a drape. Your skirt will stick out a bit more away from your body.

Other fabrics that are very similar are liverpool, true neoprene and techno.  They will all feel, stretch and drape about the same.

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Fukuro: Soft to the touch with a nice stretch. The face of fabric has texture to it while the back has a smooth finish.  It is a more structured knit and skirt will again stick out away from body more.

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Cotton Lycra: This semi-opaque knit has a soft hand. Most commonly has both horizontal and vertical stretch. The word “lycra” is a brand/trademark of spandex. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement, and shape retention that won’t wash away.  Depending on weight you may feel a bit more “revealed” in cotton lycra on the top half, because it isn’t as thick as those listed above.  Your skirt will have moderate drape towards the body.  The vertical stretch could cause your bodice to pull slightly longer with the weight of the skirt pulling it down. (It was very windy, so the dress is being blown under my booty by the wind! It is not the fabric draping under there naturally!)

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You can choose a fabric with a softer drape, like ITY, poly blends, rayon spandex, etc. But they will drape down towards your body.  Your skirt will hang on your body instead or stick out away from it.  We still recommend one that has good weight for the bodice to hold shape well and since it is fitted to help not show lumps,bumps,bra lines, etc.

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Now that you’ve chosen your fabrics, share them with us!  Tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  And be sure to post your fabric picks in our event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Filed Under: Sew-A-Long 5 Comments

Sweetheart + Me Hearties SAL: Get Ready!

March 13, 2016

Get excited.  Why?  Because Patterns for Pirates is having our first Sew-A-Long!  Our timing couldn’t be more perfect for Easter sewing either…because it’s for the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Dresses!  Eep!

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The SAL (sew-a-long) begins on Monday, but that doesn’t mean you can’t start planning it all out ahead of time.  Because these are full circle skirts, they do take a bit more fabric than a basic tee/dress would…so start digging through your stash or head out to your local fabric shop to make sure you have enough to make your perfect dress (or peplum).

sweetheart dress peplum pdf sewing patterns for pirates (25)listing pictures

And don’t forget to join us in the Event Page for the Sew-A-Long on Facebook: HERE.
The SAL itself will be on this very blog, but we will be extending the party over to the group and event on Facebook for even more interactive fun!

And before we go…here is the schedule, so you know what to expect from us.  We will even be throwing in some new tricks and pattern hacks, so you can get even more out of these adorable patterns.  Can’t wait!!

 

floral

Filed Under: Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Exposed Seams Boutique Look Hack

March 8, 2016

I’ve seen the boutique french terry raglan with exposed seams countless times in the group, pinterest, and other sewing boards over the past couple years! I made one about a year ago, but never wrote up a blog about how to get the look.  We’re still asked for it all the time, so I did another one while we’re updating the Women’s Raglan to include the extended plus sizes and new features our newest P4P patterns have, like layers. It’s looser fit is perfect for french terry, which is what the boutique ones are always made of and gives the same “slouchy” looser fit.header

Overall, it is a really basic “hack”.  But, I’m going to have to beg forgiveness for the photos! Apparently I did not check my photos as I was taking them and they are not great quality!  Hopefully you can enjoy my Peter Pan-esque comedic shadow in them!

You will cut out your pieces exactly the same as a normal raglan for the main shirt.  If you want to add the cowl with unfinished bottom edge you will cut 2 like the pattern states, but NOT on the fold.  You could still cut on the fold to keep the fullness and just not sew in the bottom edge as well.  Depending on how thick your fabric is and how big you want your cowl.  I easily get claustrophobic with things around my neck, so one layer not on the fold was an easy decision for me ;).

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When assembling the sleeves to the bodice front and back you will put WRONG sides together and stitch with your sewing machine using your favorite stretch stitch.

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Trim the notches and smooth out your seam allowance.

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Press seams out.  You could top-stitch here if you preferred, but I left it open and free 😉 I thought it went with the look better.

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Sew down side seams with right sides together, like you would normally.

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I added the inseam pocket option from the Add on Pack as well (I can’t seem to make a tunic length without this option anymore!).  I went with hemming the front to the right side to show the wrong side there as well.

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For my hems I left them all raw and allowed them to roll up towards the front to show the wrong sides there too.

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I attached the cowl the same way as the tutorial states, but only attaching one raw edge of the cowl to the neckline instead of two.

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Done! Now you have a lovely boutique look that was such an easy sew and hack!

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Filed Under: Pattern Hacks, Sewing Techniques, Uncategorized 1 Comment

Sweet Tee + Sugar Pie Dolman Pattern Release!

March 8, 2016

Guess what today is? You betcha! It’s a P4P pattern release day!

We are coming at you live with another double release, for both women and girls. Remember the sneak peek at the we had in last month’s newsletter? It’s finally here!

listing picturesbundle

The Sweet Tee (women’s) and Sugar Pie (girl’s) tops (Bundled here) will quickly create a dolman-sewing addiction. They are incredibly quick and super darling on all body types. The pattern features a semi-fitted silhouette and a dolman-style sleeve…as well as our tried-and-true jam packed amount of options.  You’re bound to become as obsessed with this top as we are.

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Multiple sleeve options (short, 3/4 and long), multiple hems (curved/tall and short waistbands/shirt length/dress length) and a variety of finishes for the neckband will give you endless options.  There is nothing better than having a trusted pattern you can use over and over again, and the Sweet Tee + Sugar Pie will not disappoint.

Just ask our fabulous testers!








And we can’t leave our our mini models:







Make sure to head over to our Facebook Group and check out the tester albums there!  You’ll never fall short of inspiration with our amazing group of sewists.  (But you know that already. Am I right?)

What are you waiting for?  Go grab yourself a copy of the newest dolman tees!

Find the women’s Sweet Tee HERE
Find the girl’s Sugar Pie HERE
And best of all…find the Sweet Tee/Sugar Pie Bundle HERE (gotta love mommy and me versions!)

We can’t wait to see what you make!

Filed Under: Pattern Release 3 Comments

15K Member Celebration!!

February 24, 2016

I’m pretty sure we blinked and the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group welcomed it’s 15,000th member.  And then we blinked a few more times and we’re closer to the 16K mark at this point!  It’s been amazing being surrounded by a bunch of women (and some men too!) who love sewing, supporting each other, and the patterns that we’ve put out over the last few years.

We wanted to thank you for being so awesome.  And what better way to do that than by having an AMAZING giveaway?

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Get ready to drool, you guys.  ONE lucky winner will walk away with a crazy amount of prizes.

This wouldn’t be possible without our fabulous sponsors:

Girl Charlee | Sincerely Rylee Fabric Shop | Knitpop | Zenith & Quasar Fabric | Pink Zeppelin Fabrics | KNITorious Fabric | Fabric Stache | Sweet N’ Charmed | The Fabric Snob | Craftsy | PurpleSeamstress | Raspberry Creek | Fabric Snob | Rikki Prints | Edge Custom Apparel and Accessories | Handmade Escapade | Fabric Worm | My Vinyl Direct

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And on top of it all, P4P is sponsoring by giving away a Silhouette Cameo.  Now you can sew up your favorite Patterns for Pirates designs and put some awesome HTV designs on them yourself.  No longer will you envy everyone else’s graphic tees…because you can create your very own!

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Be sure to enter into the giveaway and don’t forget to leave our sponsors some love!  Good luck!

a Rafflecopter giveawa
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Filed Under: Contest/Giveaway 34 Comments

#PINspiredPirates :: The Winners!

February 9, 2016

The moment you’ve all been waiting for…..can I get a drumroll please?!?
I’m here to announce the winner of the #PINspiredPirates contest.  Well, WINNERS.  Because we couldn’t pick just one.  There were so many amazing entries!

Most Entries: Kelly Stevens



Most Swoonworthy Replica: Jenny Sherman Richards

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Most Patterns Used for a Single Look: Alex Radu

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Best Copycat: Nicole Adams @ThePaperDollCo

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Best Admission of Guilty Pleasures: Megan Thoman

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Honorable Mentions: Amanda Travaglini


Meg McFadden Sterk


CONGRATULATIONS to all of the winners!  And thank you so much to everyone who played along with us.  It was a fun month full of sewing and creative inspiration!

Filed Under: Contest/Giveaway 1 Comment

Have you signed up for our Newsletters?

February 9, 2016

Don’t miss out on any news from P4P by signing up for our monthly Newsletter!

We send one at the end of every month to keep you guys up to date on what we’re working on.

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We will also be sending out SALES through them, so if you’re ready to never miss out on a P4P sale then make sure you sign up today!

Here is a screenshot of where to subscribe on the Home Page on a desktop view:

newsletter sign up

And mobile view:

newsletter sign up mobile

You will receive an email verifying subscription, so check those junk/spam folders for it if you don’t see it right away!

 

And to give everyone a heads up! Our next site wide sale will be announced through the newsletter!

So make sure you sign up today!

If you have already signed up, but haven’t seen a newsletter make sure to search your junk/spam folder and send it to your inbox!

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Filed Under: Announcement 9 Comments

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