Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

  • Home
  • Blog
    • Frequently Asked Questions
    • Pattern Releases
      • Free Patterns
    • P4P University
      • Fitting
      • Sewing with Stretch, Knit Fabrics
      • Sewing with Woven Fabrics
      • Sewing Machines
    • Sew-A-Longs
    • Fabric for Pirates
    • Pattern Hacks
    • Announcement
      • Blog Tours
      • Contest/Giveaway
  • Shop
  • Bundle Discounts
  • Gift Cards
  • My Account
  • Cart

P4P University :: Twin Needle Tips

March 16, 2017

Hello Pirates!  Today I’ll be walking through some tips on using a twin needle for topstitching as an alternative to a coverstitch machine.  The end goal (of either twin needles or a coverstitch) is two lines of parallel stitching on the right side of the fabric, with the ability to stretch and not break threads when pulled.  This is usually used when hemming, but these tricks will especially come in handy when topstitching binding on our new cami pattern!

 

1. Stretch Needles

The most important point is to make sure you buy stretch needles.  Schmetz is the most common brand that people tend to use, they are available on Amazon.  I prefer the wider 4.0 width the best because it works better for me; it also comes in a 2.5 width.  These are both 75/11 needle size.

 

2. Threading

When threading, it helps to thread as shown in the below picture.  This helps stop the threads from twisting when sewing.  Also, make sure your threads are not caught on anything (or each other) at the top of your machine.

 

5. Stitch Type

Use a regular straight stitch for this; no need to use a triple stretch stitch (|||) or any other stretch stitch like that.

 

4. Tension

Tunneling is what happens when there is a large bump in between your two rows of stitching.  To avoid this, I’ve found it helps to increase your top thread tension.  Your machine may vary, but I usually set my tension to 3.  If possible, you should also decrease your bobbin tension as well.

 

5. Stitch Length

Increasing stitching length usually also helps with tunneling, especially on trickier, slipperier fabrics.  Your machine may also vary on this too, but I set mine between 3.0 – 4.0, depending on fabric.  The lower number will help things stretch more though, so you may need to find a happy medium.

 

6. Go Slowly!

This is a huge one.  It’s so tempting to go full steam ahead, especially if you using a twin needle to hem.  You’re almost done with your project, but don’t ruin it with a sloppy hemming job!  Going slowly can make all the difference between a wavy hem and a perfectly flat one.  If you encounter any thicker areas of fabric, it may also be a good idea to use the hand crank on your machine, turning it slowly to ensure no mistakes as you pass over the thicker area.

 

7. Don’t Stretch as You Sew

This applies to all knit fabric projects, but especially when using a twin needle.  Don’t pull or stretch the fabric as you feed it into the needle area.  I’ve found that even creating a little extra negative tension as you guide the fabric can help to avoid any pulling as you sew.

 

8. Top vs. Bottom

When everything is done correctly, you should have two parallel lines on the top of your fabric, and a perfect zigzag on the back.  The zigzag is what allows your fabric to stretch after it’s sewn, so if you have super tight or non-existent zigzags, then you likely need to adjust (likely increase – confusing, I know) your top thread tension.  Here’s how it should look, the underside of the fabric is at the top of the picture and the right side is on the bottom.  Note the zigzags!

 

I hope these tips help you as you prepare to topstitch lots of fun binding or finish up a fancy new garment with a twin needle hem!  Let us know in our Facebook group or here in the comments if you have any questions about twin needles!

Elisabeth

Share this:

  • Pinterest
  • Facebook
  • Twitter

Related

«
»

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions 15 Comments

Comments

  1. Gloria. Mott says

    March 16, 2017 at 1:04 pm

    Agree with everything you say but prefer the 2.5 needles as I do not want my seams to look like RTW.

    Reply
    • Elisabeth says

      March 16, 2017 at 1:16 pm

      It’s all about personal preference, really. If you like 2.5 needles then there’s nothing wrong with that! 🙂

      Reply
  2. Angela Margerison says

    March 16, 2017 at 4:12 pm

    I’ve read lots of others say that stretch needles are for swim lycra type fabrics and it’s ballpount needles for jersey. Just make some so confused when I read conflicting instructions.
    Do you stitch forward and then back 3 stitches to lock in the thread at the beginning and end? Thanks

    Reply
    • Elisabeth says

      March 16, 2017 at 7:59 pm

      I like to use stretch needles on fabrics with spandex/lycra, so these work best in most cases for me.

      I do, and it usually works great!

      Reply
  3. Andrea says

    March 16, 2017 at 4:37 pm

    Can I use my coverstitch machine on the cami straps instead?

    Reply
    • Elisabeth says

      March 16, 2017 at 7:58 pm

      Of course!

      Reply
  4. Amy says

    March 17, 2017 at 8:55 am

    How do you end the stitches when you finish a hem with a double needle or when you top stitch a neck band?

    Reply
    • Elisabeth says

      March 17, 2017 at 10:26 am

      Personally I backstitch at start and finish. I know some people don’t like to do this so I know you can also keep your thread tails long and then knot them. A little fray check would probably help too.

      Reply
Newer Comments »

Trackbacks

  1. Peg Legs SAL: Day 4 - Sew add ons (pocket, color block, side strip etc) - Patterns for Pirates says:
    April 29, 2017 at 5:18 am

    […] zag. When top stitching with a sewing machine I highly recommend using twin needles. Check out the Twin Needles Blog for some tips and […]

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Newest Patterns

  • Notch Top & Dress $12.00 $10.50
  • Notch Top & Dress - Youth $10.00 $8.50
  • Notch Top & Dress - Bundle $20.00 $18.00
  • Friendly City Sweater $12.00
  • Friendly City Sweater - Youth $10.00
  • Privacy Policy
  • Refund Policy
  • Affliliate Program
  • Contact Us
  • About

Copyright © 2023 Patterns for Pirates

Copyright © 2023 · Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in