All Gather Round Hacks

September 9, 2022

ALL GATHER ROUND HACKS

Ruffle on Short Sleeve Hack:

Copy your favorite ready-to-wear look with this simple hack!

Adding a ruffle to the sleeve of the new Gather ‘Round pattern is a very simple hack to further extend the versatility of your pattern.

Start by cutting out the short sleeve pattern pieces.

Measure the bottom hemline.

Multiply that measurement by 1.75 to get the length of your ruffle piece (i.e. 12” x 1.75 = 21”).

I made a ruffle that is 2.5” long, but you can make yours longer or shorter to your preference. My sleeve hem was 12” so I cut my ruffle pieces 3” tall (to accommodate the seam allowance on both ends) x 21” long.

Use your preferred gathering method to fit the ruffle to the sleeve. Baste in place, then sew.

From this point forward, complete your make per the pattern instructions.

Skirt only Hack:

I have been all over the swirly skirt and crop top look this year, and when we started testing the All Gather Round I couldn’t resist making the skirt section on its own to add to my collection.

This is the simplest and easiest hack out there, just head over and grab the waistband pattern piece in your size from the FREE Peg Legs pattern.

I used a viscose elastane fabric for the skirt pieces, but that wouldn’t have worked for the waistband as it wouldn’t have enough body to hold the skirt up. I decided on a plain black cotton/lycra for my waistband, but whatever you use it will need great stretch and recovery as the skirt can end up pretty heavy with all those tiers attached. Then cut your fabric for the waistband using the Pegs pattern piece.

Cut your skirt pieces according to the instructions for the All Gather Round. I had:

1 x waistband

2 x top tier

3 x mid tier

5 x bottom tier

(the tier pieces are folded in the photo above, just to get them all in the pic)

Then simply construct your skirt according to the tutorial for the All Gather Round but instead of attaching it to the bodice you attach it to the waistband. It really couldn’t be easier!

Give it a good press with some steam to help the gathers behave, and you’re all done. Enjoy your new twirly, swirly skirt! I’m wearing this with the crop length top from the Rainbow Dress Pattern

Exposed Seam Hack:

I have been seeing dresses and tops with exposed seams everywhere lately, and a hack showcasing this fun trend could not be simpler!

First, choose your options for the Gather ’round Dress, and complete the steps up to Step 4. That means you’ll be constructing your bodice, adding optional pockets if desired and sewing the side seams of your skirt tiers.

At this point, you may choose to finish the raw edges of your skirt tiers, as these will be exposed once the dress is complete. This is completely up to you! I chose to do so on this version, because I like the more finished look it gave it, although leaving the edges raw is also just fine. Just make sure that if you do choose this option, to be careful NOT to cut any of the seam allowance off with your serger.

Next, select the top tier of your skirt, and run two rows of gathering stitches across the top long edge, as directed in the pattern tutorial. You’ll want to have it line up roughly with the circumference of your bodice, as shown here.

The next step is where the exposed seams come into play! This time, attach the top skirt tier to the bodice WRONG SIDES together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn your dress right side out. At this point, particularly if you’ve used a different colored bodice lining like I have here, you’ll want to trim the seam allowance of the bodice ONLY, being careful not to cut through the stitching. This will reduce bulk and enable your skirt to lay more nicely as well.

Press the seam allowance up toward the bodice, and topstitch just below the exposed edge of the skirt.

Depending on the options you’ve chosen for your Gather ’round Dress, repeat these steps until all skirt tiers are attached. Hem as usual.

You’ve done it! Now step back and admire your gorgeous and trendy exposed seams.

Gathered Cap Sleeve with Long Sleeves Hack:

I really love the flutter and long sleeve combo and it’s super simple to achieve!

Follow the Gather ‘Round dress tutorial for adding the gathered cap sleeves to the bodice but use a basting stitch.

Place the right side of the long sleeve on top of the wrong side of the gathered cap sleeve, and attach flat, easing the shoulder of the sleeve to match the armscye. Pull out all basting stitches.

With right sides together and matching the armpit seam. Pin and stitch the side seam from the sleeve hem to the bottom edge of the bodice. Continue with tutorial to attach the skirt.

Voila! All done!

Naughty Nice + Sugar Spice PJs :: Easy Hacks

December 7, 2018

Our newest pajama patterns are just so perfect for the holiday season, aren’t they? So if it’s a party, let’s make it a pajama party with some easy hacks that will add even more options to the Naughty Nice and Sugar Spice PJs you’ll be making.

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Zipper

Let’s start by switching the front of the Naughty Nice pajamas from a button/snap placket to a fun zipper. Fear not, it’s super easy! I personally find the zipper to take less time than adding all the snaps or buttons. Grab a 9″ zipper and let’s get started.

Sew the pajama as instructed in the tutorial, except for the neckband. You won’t be using the one in the tutorial, you’ll make a new neckband.

Lay your zipper right side down on the front opening. The to of the sipper will be at the curve. Sew it as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Using a zipper foot will make this easy.

Repeat the process on the other side of the zipper.

On the wrong side of the fabric, sew a straight stitch where the fabric and zipper meet and remove excess zipper.

Now that we added the zipper we need to create a new neckband. With the zipper closed measure the neck opening. I like to lay mine flat but you can measure anyway you feel comfortable.

Cut your neckband 85% of the neckline opening plus 1″ for seam allowance by 2.5 inches. Fold your neckband widthwise and round your open edge to resemble a henley neckband. Open then neckband and fold it lengthwise, wrong sides together. Give it a good press and mark the back and the quarter points.

Mark the quarter points on the neckline opening. With the zipper open, pin (or clip) the neckband in place.

Attach the neckband using a stretch stitch. Optionally, top stitch. I actually like to topstitch around the neckline and zipper right now, using a continuous stitch.

All done! You can use the same technique to add a front zipper to the Sugar and Spice PJs too. You will just have to adjust the zipper length.

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Lace Up Front

Want to spice up the naughty version or just want some extra fun detail? Instead of snaps or buttons, use grommets/eyelets on the front neckline. Use as many or as little as you prefer. I chose to do 4 spaced about 1.5″ apart. Use drawstring, ribbon, lace or our knit fabric to create the string and lace it up!

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Hood

When I was searching for inspiration for my Naughty Nice PJs, I kept coming across hooded versions of this same style pajama. I’m not sure how comfortable a hood would be to sleep in, but to have a little extra coziness around you while you’re lounging around? Sign me up! Plus, I think this pattern will translate so amazingly well for costumes next Halloween, and a hood is always a good thing to be able to attach for those as well.

You can use your favorite hood piece from any pattern. I chose to use the Women’s Henley hood piece.

Assemble your hood piece like you normally would. I chose not to line mine and hem it instead.

You’ll need to take two measurements:
— The width of the bottom edge of your hood, where it will attach to your PJs.
— The full length of the neckline + placket opening.

You won’t be using the neckband piece that comes with the pattern. Instead, you’ll need to do a little more math.

(Neckline Opening Measurement – Hood Width Measurement) / 2 + 1″ Seam Allowance

This will give you your new placket piece length. You’ll want two of them, for either side of the openings.

With your placket pieces folded in half (wrong sides together), pin it along the front placket opening and stitch. Repeat with the second placket piece on the opposite side. Follow the instructions just like the Naughty Nice / Sugar Spice patterns call for, to finish the bottom of your placket pieces.

With right sides together, align your hood piece along the raw edges of the neck opening. Pin and stitch. You’re done!

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Leg Placket

The last easy hack we wanted to show you is geared towards the Sugar and Spice. We all know how changing a bitty’s diaper can be difficult when they get all wiggly, especially in the middle of the night. So I wanted to show you how to add leg plackets to make changing a little easier.

Make the pajamas as instructed in the tutorial but do not stitch the inseam. Instead, add the cuffs flats, right sides together.

Once you add the cuffs, your pajama legs will look like this.

Open the PJ legs and measure the front and back inseams.

Cut two strips of fabric and interfacing that will be the measured length plus 1″ by 2″ width. Add the interfacing to the placket, fold and press lengthwise.

Fold the placket pieces right sides together and sew a stitch along each short end. Use a 1/2″ seam allowance. Cut the seam allowance to about 1/8″ and turn outside out. Press.

Pin each placket strip to the leg opening, making sure you match the front placket to the front opening and the back placket to the back.

Stitch in place and top stitch. If you used a serger to add your plackets, take a look over this blog to see how to finish the serger tails.

All you have to do now is add your snaps. Space them about 1 – 1.5″ apart from each other.

All done! Now you have easy diaper change Sugar Spice Pajamas!

There you have it, 4 easy hacks to give your pajamas even more options! We can’t wait to see what your Naughty Nice and Sugar Spice Pajamas will be. Post your creations in the P4P group!

Alex, Nicole and Katy

P4P University – Shirring 101

July 31, 2018

In this month’s P4P University blog we decided to focus on shirring. Shirring is the process that will give elasticity non stretchy fabric by shrinking it.

Start by winding the bobbin with elastic thread. I recommend winding the bobbin by hand instead if the electric winder. This will ensure that the thread is not too tight on the bobbin.

TIP: Wind several bobbins before you start sewing.

Replace your regular thread bobbin with the elastic thread one and manually pull the elastic thread up by hand turning the machine wheel.

I have made this video with my tips for easy shirring so take a look before you start.

Choose light weight fabric!

As with all sewing, fabric type/weight makes a huge difference. The lighter the fabric, the tighter will your shirring be. Voile or chiffon will shirr better than quilting cotton, denim or corduroy won’t shirr at all.

Adjust the tension and length according to your machine and fabric!

Not all sewing machines will shirr the same way. Some might “fuss” more than other, so it’s very important to test on a piece of fabric (the same as the one you’re using in your project) what tension will work best. I personally prefer the longest stitch length and the highest tension.

Do not use the automatic thread cutter!

I know for some, like me, using the automatic features of our machine is like second nature but try to remember to disengage the automatic thread cutter so you avoid having to manually pull the elastic thread up with every row. See video above.

Space your shirring rows equally spaced, no more than 1/4″ apart!

For best shirring results your rows should be about 1/4″ apart, or less. The closer the shirring rows, the tighter the elasticity.

Steam, steam and STEAM again!!

Once you finished your shirring rows take your project to the ironing board and give the shirred rows several bursts of steam, on both sides. You will see the shrinking magic happening right before your eyes. This step is NOT OPTIONAL, it’s a must do when shirring.

There you have it! You are now ready to shirr all the woven tops!