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Palazzos Open Leg Hack

June 7, 2018

 

I’m so excited to bring you this fun summer hack!  These open leg pants are perfect for summertime, yoga, belly dancing, beachwear coverup, and really whatever you want them to be!   I’ll be taking you through two styles-   the overlap with a tie and the split seam with banding.  They can be mixed and match as well :).

Let’s talk about fabric,  drapey fabrics are a must for this so things like Bamboo Lycra, Rayon spandex, and Double Brushed Poly work great (although DBP is better for colder weather due to breathability).  I used Bamboo Lycra for both of my options.   I definitely recommend using a cheap muslin fabric first to make sure you get the fit you want before cutting into your nice fabric.

Now for the fun part!  Open up your Palazzo pattern and for sizing I chose to size up for a looser fit through the hips. Print your pattern and assemble as normal.

First,  you’ll need to take off some length – I took off about 3 inches.   It still left me with a lot of drape at the ankle.  It was perfect for the tie version but if you want less ankle drape you’ll need to take off more especially for the cuff version.

Next, you need to taper in your legs.  The amount you take in will also determine the look you want. If you want a thinner leg take them in even more. For the tie option, I marked in 1.5 inches on each side of the pattern piece for a size medium.   (If you are doing the cuff I’d recommend taking it in .5-1 inch more.)

Once you have your 1.5 inches marked on both pieces you’ll take a straight edge up to the shorts cut line to create a gradual grade ending there.  Now cut those off.

 

If you are doing the Cuff bottom stop here and move on to sewing.  If you are wanting the tie- you’ll need to create a tie extension on the outer leg seam.   Honestly I just kind of winged it.   The size shown here is smaller than the one in the photograph as those were a tad too long.   Here are the measurements and tie shape.  Make sure you do matching ties on both outer edge seam pieces.

 

Now cut out your fabric pieces!  For your waistband- I used the fold over yoga band and you’ll cut it at your normal size, not the upsized.

Sewing the Tie Overlap option-

The first thing you are going to do is hem the entire outside edge of the pants through the tie and along the bottom using a .25-.5 inch hem.   It’s a lot of hemming but worth it!   Do this on all four pieces.     Outside edge only- not the inner leg seam.

Next lay your front and back pattern pieces right sides together and sew up the inner leg seam as instructed in the original pattern.  Then sew the two pieces together along the crotch seam.

Now you are a going to put your pants on- I know it’s a little tricky as they are totally open but pull them up one side at a time.  You are going to take your front and back pieces at the top and overlap them to where you feel comfortable.  Mine overlapped about 4 inches.   Use some clips to clip it together and then baste the pieces together.  The red circled part is where you are overlapping.

Now cut the waistband from your regular size- (not your upsize) and sew it to your pants and you are done!   If you’d like a more modest leg you can tack your opening closed however low you’d like it.  Tie your bottoms up and you are ready for some summer fun!

 

Sewing the Cuff option-

First I’m going to have you clip your front and back inner leg seams RST together on one leg.

Now slip your pant leg on inside out- I know it’s a little weird as the side is totally open but at this point, you are going to figure out how big you want your slit to be.   Using clips- clip the top as far down as you’d like it and the bottom as far up as you’d like it.   Repeat on the other side.   It’s helpful if you have someone that can help you hold up the side.   You can also just guess if you want and clip on the floor.  Mine are about 8 inches from the top and 4 inches from the bottom. The photo below shows what you are clipping.

Then, using your sewing machine (you might want to baste first), sew your seam allowances together up to where you clipped on the bottom and top.    Feel free to try on again after basting to make sure this is the size you want your opening. Don’t forget to back and front stitch a few times to seal your seam.  Once you have your set opening you’ll press open your seam allowance and topstitch from the bottom all the way to the top as shown by the red lines below.    The second picture is what your finished outer leg will look like at the bottom and top.

Now go ahead and sew up your inner leg seams, crotch seams, and waistband.

Finally, for the cuff, you’ll take your bottom width of your pant and multiply it by .7.  Cut out two cuffs that are that length (going with the stretch of the fabric) by 4 inches tall.  If you’d like a different height feel free to use whatever.

Then you will serge on your cuff stretching as you go and leave a small 1.5-2inch opening.   Now using any elastic you’d like that will fit in the cuff, find a comfortable length around your ankle and cut two pieces.   Feed the elastic into your cuff opening using a safety pin and making sure to keep one end out.   Once you have both ends out and the elastic fed through,  overlap your elastic ends and stitch using a stretch stitch.  Push the elastic back into the cuff and finish your cuff seam.

Yay!! Now you have your finished pants!!

Thank you so much and I hope you enjoy these pants as much as I do! Don’t forget to show them off in the P4P Facebook group too!

May your sails and bobbin always be full,

Michelle

 

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized 1 Comment

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not.  The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy.  Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works.  But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit.  The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form.  Heaven, right?

p4p-palazzo-hack-tutorial

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos.  Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants.  Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing.  It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric.  Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement.  Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

P4P Palazzo Hack-006

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy.  And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever!  Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″?  The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around.  Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs.  Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

P4P Palazzo Hack-003

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge.  Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam.  Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

P4P Palazzo Hack-004 P4P Palazzo Hack-005

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

P4P Palazzo Hack-009

Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece.  I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie.  I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

IMG_6096

Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube.  I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

IMG_6106IMG_6107Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

IMG_6097

For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease.  Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants.  I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted.  (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

IMG_6099IMG_6100IMG_6098Next, I marked my buttonholes.  I did about 1/2″ from the center for each.  I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

IMG_6103IMG_6101You will need to use a knit button hole.  Here is what mine looks like on my machine.  The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

IMG_6102IMG_6104Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs.  The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants.  After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband.  I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

IMG_6105IMG_6112Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

12120250_977021242372670_988239226_n(1)

Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉  I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go.  The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things.  Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

IMG_2002 copy

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

pocket1pocket2Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

pocket3lined pocket

Unlined Pocket                                                                                                 Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket:  Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

pocket4

Stitch Pocket on front leg.  Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

palazzo


There you have it!  Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs.  Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams.  (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks?  Or came up with something of your own?  We are DYING to see it!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks 4 Comments

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