Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

24/7 Tank Hack

24/7 Tank Hack

If there is something I am always looking for a little bit more of in life, it’s comfort!  I started making all my own bras a few years ago, and a soft and comfortable knit bra pattern is something I just love.  When we made the 24/7 Tank in testing I couldn’t get enough of the integral bra with it, and knew I had to hack it to make the perfect everyday undies for me too.

I used a lovely athletic jersey fabric from Crafty Baba, here in the UK, with a 95/5 cotton lycra from my lining.  You need a stable fabric with good stretch and great recovery. This honestly couldn’t be much easier to do. I started by tracing the bra pieces from the 24/7 Tank pattern, and then added 1/4″ seam allowance onto the neckline and armscye curves of both the front and back bra pattern pieces.  In my pictures below, the original pattern is traced in black biro and the extra 1/4″ seam allowance is drawn in a permanent marker, to make it a little easier to see.

Then I cut out the following pieces:

FRONT

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh (optional but gives better support)

BACK

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh

ELASTIC

1 x under bust elastic cut to measurements provided in pattern.

Sew your outer fabric together at the shoulder seams, right sides together using your regular 1/2″ seam allowance.

Optionally, for your lining you can baste the inner lining to the wrong sides of the lining fabric before you sew the shoulder seams together, this helps make sure everything gets layered together properly.  I didn’t in this example as I was comfortable handling everything without but it’s easy to get confused.

Then sew your lining together at the shoulder seams, right sides together.  Your fabric should be layered as such: back inner lining power mesh, back lining right sides up, front lining right sides down, front inner lining power mesh.

Next lay the lining fabric out flat, right sides up (the attached power mesh inner lining will be at the bottom).  Lay the outer fabric right sides down on top.  Pin or clip the fabric together around the neckline. Sew together using your favourite stretch stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  I sew 1/4″ clear elastic into the seam as I go using my overlocker/serger.  This helps recovery of the seam and gives greater support for a larger bust.

 

Next you will flip the garment right sides out again through the neckhole. Press carefully.

We will now finish the armscyes using a burrito roll method.  You can follow this video tutorial for the Boundless dress which guides you through step by step, just remember we are only using a 1/4″ seam allowance for the armscyes. Burrito Roll Method – P4P You Tube

Or the written instructions are to lay the fabric out flat, rights sides out.  Then roll one side of the bodice up towards the other side.

When you get near the top, flip the bottom of the open edges out under the roll and up over the top of it to encase the roll inside the open edge.

Then pin or clip along the length of the curved armscye.  Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance being careful to keep the roll of fabric inside the shoulder strap well out of the way of the stitches.

Pull your garment right sides out through the finished shoulder strap.  Here you can see the left side is finished and the right is not.

To finish the right side too, lay the garment out again and roll the finished side up towards the unfinished side. Then flip the bottom fabric on the unfinished side out under the roll, and up over the top to encase it again, like before.  Stitch again.

Pull your garment right sides out through the shoulder strap once more and give it a press.

Now we just have to finish the side seams.  To do this we open out the main from the lining on both the front and back, and clip them right sides together, matching main with main and lining with lining.  Then sew the side seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Repeat on the other side.

Your bra is now almost finished, you just have to stitch the elastic to the bottom.  Butt the edges of the elastic together and sew them together using a wide, short zig zag stitch.  Then quarter the elastic and the bottom of the bra and sew the elastic on as per the instructions in the 24/7 Tank tutorial.

 

You’re all done!  I hope you love your comfy new lounge bra.  They’re so quick to make you can whip up another in next to no time.

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Dana xxx

 

 

Fierce Bra and Undies – Easy Hacks

Ahoy, pirates! In true P4P fashion we could not let the DOUBLE release happen without showing you some simple hacks for your new Fierce Undies and Bra. All these simple mods can be applied to both our adult and youth pattern.

…..

Undies with bands

   

I love the new Fierce Undies. They feel so amazing! But I know sometimes I prefer a knit waistband instead of elastic. So today I will be showing you how to hack a knit waistband on the Fierce Undies.

 

The first thing I did was cut and assemble the pattern according to the pattern. Then I measured the top of the undies to see how wide it is.

Now here is the formula I used to the band width: (undies width X 2)+1 X 80%. I like to use 80% because I like my band a little smaller but not too tight. Here is a picture of my measurements. 

So my finished number is 24.8. So I cut my band at 4” tall and 24.8 wide. I cut my band 4” high because I like the 2” thickness. I fold my band short ends together and sew.

Then I fold it again raw edges together.

 

Now I quarter the band and undies, then I put the band over the undies with right sides together matching the quarter marks.

Sew the band on, top stitch if desired.

Now you have a knit and Fierce undies! 

 

 

 

…..

Undies with picot lace

Nicole will show us how to add picot trim to the leg opening soon!

…..

Bra with knit biding

For this hack, we will be using knit to create a binding instead of fold over elastic (FOE). This is a a great hack to use if you don’t have any FOE on hand or if you want your binding to be a cute print or exact match of one of your fabrics.
To get started, cut out the three 2” strap pieces using the width measurements as indicated in the elastic cut chart according to your size. Optional: serge along the long edges for additional stability. Then, press all three binding pieces into 1/2” strips: Fold pieces in half, press, open back up, then bring raw edges to meet at the center crease, press, fold in half, press.
Open up your binding neckline piece, match the center point of binding (right side) to the center point of the neckline (lining side). Stretching slightly, stitch along the neckline using a stretch stitch and a 1/2” seam allowance (along the first crease).
Finger press binding and seam allowance up, then re-fold the binding in the same manner as done previously to get a 1/2″ strip. Re-fold the entire strip to form your straps and pin/clip in place. Stitch using a stretch stitch along the entire binding to close and finish the binding/straps.
Continue with pattern instructions for construction. Repeat binding steps with outside straps: be sure your binding pieces are open before stitching the ends together when getting started on the outside straps.
 
and now you have your own custom knit binding! <3
(bra pictured has elastic band attached differently than pattern)
Lacy

…..

Youth bra with cups

My daughter is getting to be that age that she wants just a bit more coverage and loves all her ready to wear sports bras that come with padded cups. The first thing that she asked me about the new fierce bra is if it had cups and I said no but not to worry I could add them for her.  This hack is super easy and the construction does not change at all!  Let’s get started!

First we are going to trace off our front piece, next we need to create an opening for our cups to slide into.  I used my french curve but you can certainly free hand a curve similar to what I have shown here.  I just estimated how big to make it, it does not need to be to big, you want to be able to easily slide a cup in and out of it.  Next cut away the line you drew on your piece, this will now be your lining piece. You will cut one main front and one lining from your newly created piece.

Your construction will stay exactly the same, you will just have the curves in your lining piece.  I choose not to finish the edges of my curves as I was using a really nice quality athletic fabric but you can always finish that edge with your serger or with a narrow hem on your sewing machine.  Once finished you will be able to slide in cups, I just grabbed a set from my daughters ready to wear bras but you can also buy bra cups and cut them down to fit.  My daughter is only 10 and really doesn’t need them to add any type of support she just likes the extra coverage so really any cheap cups from Amazon will do the trick and are easy to cut to size.

All done and my girl is happy to have a bra made to fit her perfectly

Angela

…..

Undies with lace band

Up next I wanted to show you another way to add a waistband to the Fierce Undies. Instead of the 3/4″-1.5″ waistband elastic you can use stretch lace. I used 1″ for my example but 1.5″ would work beautifully as well. Start by cutting your pattern as instructed but cut stretch lace instead of elastic.

Sew the short ends of the lace to form a loop. You may find it easier to use a piece of water soluble stabilizer between the machine’s feed dogs and the lace so as to deter your machine from trying to “eat” your fabric.

Sew the undies as instructed in the tutorial. Pin the lace at the top, overlapping 3/8″. The wrong side of the lace will be against the right side of the undies. Sew in place using a zig zag stitch of a coverstitch.

Tadah!  Done! You just added one more option to the Fierce Undies.

Judy is rocking a pair of Fierce Undies with a 2″ lace band.

…..

Swim suit

Last but certainly not least we want it to show you how easy it is to make  Fierce Swimsuit. You will need:

  • swim suit fabric
  • swim lining (or solid swim like I used)
  • 1″ swim elastic for the waistband and under bust band
  • 3/8″ swim elastic for the leg openings and bra straps
  • optionally power mesh and cups (I have not used them on mine)

Start by cutting you undies front and back pieces from swim, the liner from solid swim or lining. Cut the waistband 3″ by the length of the waistband elastic (from the cutting chart) plus 1″ for the seam allowance. Cut the 1″ swim elastic the length of the waistband elastic from the chart. Now cut the bra pieces, making sure that the under bust band is 3″ wide by the length of the elastic plus 1″ seam allowance. You will also need to enclose swim elastic in the bra straps so you will but binding strips that are 1.5″ wide by the length of the pattern straps pieces.

Sew the undies and side of the bra (and lining) as instructed in the tutorial. Now let’s make the waistband and the bra under bust band. Same technique…butt the ends of the elastic together and sew with a wide zig zag stitch. Overlap the band with the right sides together and sew it in a loop using 1/2″ seam allowance. Insert the elastic inside and put pins or clips at the quarter mark. Put the bands aside for now.

Hem the legs of the undies as in the pattern. The only difference will be that you will be using swim elastic for the briefs and thong, no elastic for the cheekies. Take your swim elastic and baste it to one edge of each of the bra straps.

Attach the bra straps binding as Lacy is showing you in the hack above.

All you have left to do is add the waistband and under bust band that you prepared earlier. Mark the 4 quarters of the undies waist and under bust opening. Add the respective band matching the quarter points. Sew them with your serger or a triple stretch stitch. Optionally, top stitch.

All done! You just added one more swim suit to your collection. You can use the same tips for both the youth and the adult pattern.

We hope you enjoyed these spins on the new Fierce Undies and Fierce Bra pattern. Don’t forget to share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group or tag us on Instagram @patternsforpirates.

 

Newest Patterns