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P4P University – Understitching and Topstitching

February 23, 2021

Hi Pirates! Today we’re going to take a look at understitching and topstitching to find out how to use them while making your favorite woven patterns. The written instructions are below or you can scroll to the bottom of the page to find the video tutorial.

P4P University Understitching and Topstitching

What is Understitching?

Understitching is the technique that is used to keep facings or linings from rolling out towards the front of your garment during wear. It provides you with the ability to keep any of the facing or lining from being visible while also giving you a nice, finished and crisp edge without any stitching showing.

How to Understitch:

Begin by sewing your two pieces of fabric right sides together using the pattern seam allowance. In my example, I am using the Brunch Blouse and added a full lining to showcase understitching. You most often use understitching while attaching a facing or lining, so I added a lining to this pattern by cutting an identical top from lining fabric. After sewing the bust darts, center back seam, shoulder seams, and stay-stitching the necklines on both my main fabric and lining fabric, I was ready to sew them together. Open out both tops flat and pin the necklines together, right sides facing. Then sew all the way around the neckline with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip around the entire neckline, about every 1/2 inch, to help the fabric release and ease around the curves before turning. You want to clip through your stay-stitching lines but not through your seam allowance. Only clip up to the seam allowance line.

Press your seam allowance all towards the lining or facing. Make sure you press this well. Stitch 1/8 inch away from the seam line, on the lining side. This will hold all your seam allowances to the underside of the top when you are wearing the garment and will prevent the lining fabric from showing. Sew slowly while keeping your 1/8 inch seam allowance and readjust every inch or so around the neckline to make sure your curves are laying flat with no puckers. I prefer to stitch from the right side of the lining and feel to make sure the seam allowance is all under the presser foot, but you may stitch from the wrong side as well to be able to see your seam allowances while sewing them down. Finally, press your neckline well, making sure you have the lining fully towards the inside of the garment. I like to make sure about 1/8 inch of the main fabric is also towards the back of the seam while pressing to further make sure no lining will be visible.

Steps to understitching

You do not need to add topstitching when you have used understitching.

understitching steps

What is topstitching?

Topstitching can serve many different purposes. You can use it to add a decorative element to your make, like the back pockets of your favorite SOS pants. Or, like in today’s blog post, it can be used to hold the lining or facing to a garment. All topstitching will be visible and therefore it is important to do it carefully and have accurate stitching. Here are some tips to help your topstitching turn out great.

Topstitching

How to Topstitch:

Begin by selecting a thread that is suitable for your fabric. When applying decorative finishes, you may want a thicker topstitch thread and select a top-stitch stitch option on your machine which will create a thicker, more defined stitch. For my brunch blouse, I chose to use regular all-purpose thread and a regular straight stitch on my machine. You will want to slightly increase your stitch length when top-stitching. I use a 3 length for finer and medium weight fabrics and 3.5-4 length for heavier fabrics. Typically, the topstitching is sewn at 1/4 inch. You can use a specialty foot or use the edge of your presser foot to help keep a smooth, straight line.

Pressing will be equally important in topstitching as it was for understitching. Make sure you have pressed the area you will be topstitching well first to minimize any potential for puckers. You will want to avoid back-stitching while topstitching and instead, tie off your thread ends. These tips will help your topstitching turn out fantastic. Take your time and focus on keeping your line very straight.

Topstitching

For my brunch blouse, I used a burrito roll method to finish my arms, as I added a lining. After sewing the lining and main fabric cap sleeves, right sides together, I turned the bodice right side out and pressed. Make sure you press your fabric so that all the lining is fully under the main fabric and will not show. Next, topstitch, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and a stitch length of 3 down the sleeve hems. This topstitching attaches the lining to the fabric so that it will not be exposed during wear. Then I continued sewing the brunch blouse per the instructions, treating the lining and main fabric as one piece for the rest of the stitching.

Understitching and Topstitching Video

I hope you enjoyed this look at understitching and topstitching. If you have any questions, please visit the Facebook Group and join the discussion with so many very helpful sewists. And make sure to check out the other P4P University Posts for more help.

Filed Under: P4P University, Sewing Techniques Leave a Comment

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

March 20, 2019

Let me start this much anticipated blog post with a “wow” ! You have outdone yourself this past week, braving technical difficulties and Facebook glitches. We have seen so many gorgeous Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouses being sewn and as always we had a hard task at hand…so… Without further ado: our big sew along winner is

STACIA ZINK! Her bright yellow bitty blouse caught the team’s eye, so adorable!

We loved that Stacia treated herself to a Brunch Blouse too. Great job! You have won a $20 gift card to Patterns for Pirates and a $50 gift card to Backstitch SoFlo.

As always, we have a runner up prize too! Congratulations, Melanie Carr!

Melanie’s BB tops are so beautiful and I’m sure they will become a staple in her closet. Melanie won a $20 gift card to Made for Mermaids and a $25 gift card to Backstitch SoFlo. Happy stitching!

A huge THANK YOU to Backstitch SoFlo for sponsoring this sew along.

 

Before I let you go, I wanted to show off my Mane Attraction Brunch Blouse dress that I absolutely love.

Stay tuned for the mermaids’  sew along announcement. You do not want to miss it!

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized 2 Comments

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

March 18, 2019

And just like that we made it to the last sewing day. Today we are putting the finishing touches on out Brunch Blouses.

  • If you have sewn the tank option, you will be finishing the arm opening with bias binding. Here is a refresher blog on woven bias binding if you didn’t get to check it out yesterday.
  • If you opted for the cap sleeve style, I highly encourage you to fold your sleeve hem 1/4″ press, fold again 1/4″ and press and only then stitch. This will yield a very polished sleeve look.
  • I have selected the short sleeve option with a cuff and a snap tab. This is a great way to add accent colors and even use some decorative buttons.

The last sew along video is posted below. Take a look and once you are done sewing post your final picture in the DAY 7 COMMENTS of the BB/BBB sal album in the group…you know the drill 🙂 The team will pick out two winners on Wednesday so you have an extra day to catch up on your project.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

March 17, 2019

Two more sewing days let in this SAL. Can you believe it? Today we will be focusing on the neckband. The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch blouse neckline is finished with bias binding. The pattern calls for single fold bias tape.

I am a huge supporter of store bought bias tape because it gives me more time to focus on other projects, plus the finishing tape is not visible from the outside of the BB shirt/dress. If you have a local Joann or Walmart, look through their notions walls, you will see single and double fold bias tape in a variety of colors.

However, if you are keen on matching the bias binding with the fabric you can certainly create your own. In this P4P University blog, Nicole and Judy teach you how to diy bias tape. Take a look over it and get to cutting.

Tip: The neckline gives you plenty of opportunity to add a personal touch to your blouses. Think, double fold bias tape or placing the single fold on the outside for a pop of color…think, decorative stitches …ohh the possibilities!

Go ahead and read the tutorial and watch day 6 video below. Once you finish sewing the bias binding one, snap a picture and add it to the comments of Day 6 photo of the BB/BBB sew along album.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

March 16, 2019

The 5th day of our sew along is here. Today we sew the shoulder and the side seam, probably the easiest day of the sew along 😉 Remember to use your sewing machine for this steps and just finish the raw edge with the serger or a zig zag stitch.

TIP: If you’re doing a hemmed sleeve now would be a good time to press your memory hem. This will make it so much easier to hem later on. 

The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse patterns follow a 1/2″ seam allowance so be sure to not deviate from it when you sew the shoulder seams and side seams.

Watch the day 5 video below and be sure to post a picture of today’s progress in the day 5 photo comments of the BB / BBB sew along album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Group.

 

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized 1 Comment

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

March 14, 2019

Good morning, pirates! Today we will be focusing on the pocket(s), waist ties and back seam. The pocket and waist ties and optional so if you are skipping them, you would only sew the back seam. Easy peasy!

You can add two pockets or just one, both would look just as cute. I personally like one contrasting pocket on the left side but I also like the look of two pockets from the same fabric.

The Brunch Blouse is a relaxed fit throughout the waist so the ties will help “cinch” you in, if you are going for an hour glass look. I absolutely love the shape of the ties and that you can tie them in the front or the back.

When you sew the back seam, remember to follow the 1/2 inch seam allowance and to stitch with your sewing machine. I know temptation to use just your serger is big but remember that a serger stitch is not as resilient to wear as a sewing machine straight stitch. Use your serger, but to finish the raw edges!

Take a look over today’s video and once you finish sewing post a picture of your progress in the comments of the Day 4 photo of the BB/BBB sew along album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized 2 Comments

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

March 13, 2019

Welcome to day 3 of our Brunch and Bitty Brunch sew along. Today we will be focusing on the darts (if you are sewing the women top or dress) and the placket.

Make sure that you transfer the dart marking from the pattern to the fabric’s wrong side. I love using water soluble marking pen because I know the lines with disappear once I stem it. Another tip I have for you when sewing darts is to press the dart before AND after you sew. Ironing it will help keep the fabric in place while stitching.

Second part of the day is dedicated to the henley style placket. This is a step that may scare first time henley makers but trust me when I say it, if you go slow and you press frequently, you will see that it is not as a daunting task as you thought. Before you get started, take a look over our Placket 101 blog. The videos I have in the P4P University blog are actually of the Brunch Blouse placket so you can certainly refer to it.

Below is a link to the Day 3 sew along video which includes both the dart and placket construction. Once you complete today’s steps, be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of the Brunch/Bitty Brunch sew along album.

 

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

March 12, 2019

 

Welcome to day 2 of our Brunch and Bitty Brunch  sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions and accessories. You should have your pattern pieces ready from yesterday.

But first let’s talk a little about the right fabric for this pattern. As you can see in the video below I am using a gorgeous woven from Backstitch Fabrics for my Brunch Blouse. This woven is custom printed and the perfect weight. For the women’s blouse I absolutely love rayon fabric and chiffons. I highly encourage you to avoid quilter cottons because they do not have the necessary drape to make the top or dress flattering….and we all want that, am I right? You can get away with good quality quilter cotton for the Bitty Brunch though.


 

Backstitch SoFlo is this sew along’s sponsor too, so one of you will be getting a $50 Gift Card to the shop shop so you can treat your to some gorgeous custom printed woven fabric. Our second winner will receive a $25 gift card to Backstitch SoFlo too.

If you picked the henley style option you will also need buttons or snaps. My recommendation for buttons or snaps is smaller size ones. The placket finished width is aprox 1/2 inch so your buttons must be smaller than this.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the Brunch Blouse/Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

March 11, 2019

 

Welcome to the Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse

Sew Along!

Day One is reserved to purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Brunch Blouse here, if you’re sewing for your little girl, the Bitty Brunch Blouse can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily blog posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

Now that you purchased the pattern(s), print the size needed. In order to do that it is very important that you take your most accurate measurements. The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse are drafted for woven fabric (no stretch) so if you need to grade for multiple sizes, please do not skip this step.

You will need your waist, hips and chest measurements in order to choose the correct blouse size. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the Brunch/Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized 4 Comments

Heart Pouch :: Free Valentine Sewing Pattern!

February 10, 2019

Have we told you (our Pirate family) lately that we love you?  We love you so much, that we are giving our hearts to you this Valentine’s Day.

Well, maybe not our actual hearts…but a Heart Pouch sewing pattern.  And it’s free!!  This zipper style pouch is super easy, quick, and fun to make, and takes very little fabric.  (Plus maybe you have some 9″ zippers laying around from the scarfs that you never got around to making this past holiday season??  It’s a perfect way to use up that stash!)

**Stick around all the way to the bottom of this post for a video tutorial of the assembly of these sweet little pouches as well!

— Heart Pouch PDF free pattern pieces (found HERE)
— 2 – 8″x8″ pieces cotton woven for main + lining fabrics
— Lightweight Fusible Interfacing: I like Pellon SF101, or Heat & Bond 3336 (aff links)
— 1 – 9″ zipper

Recommended fabrics: quilting cotton, kona cotton, etc.

Step 1: Prepare your pieces.  You will need one each of the pouch back, pouch upper front, and pouch lower front; in your main, lining and interfacing fabrics.

Step 2: Following the instructions from the manufacturer, iron the interfacing to your main fabric pieces.

Step 3: Locate the upper front piece in your main fabric, and lay it with the fabric face up.

Step 4: With the zipper face down, align it against the straight, raw edge of your pattern piece.

Step 5: With your upper front lining piece face down, align it along the straight edge, sandwiching the zipper between the two pieces of fabric.  Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 6: Flip open the upper front pieces, so they are now touching with wrong sides together, and your zipper is exposed.  Press and topstitch, if desired.

Step 7: Locate your lower front piece in your main fabric, and lay it with the fabric face up.

Step 8: Lay your upper front pieces with the main fabric face down, aligning the zipper to the long straight edge of the lower piece.

Step 9: Similar to step 5, align the lower front lining pieces along the straight edge, sandwiching the zipper between the two pieces of fabric.  Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 10: Flip open the lower front pieces, so they are now touching with wrong sides together, and your zipper is exposed.  Press and topstitch, if desired.

Step 11: Open up your zipper, and trim any excess length if needed.

Step 12: Clip your zipper opening together and zigzag stitch to baste the edge shut.

Step 13: Lay your completed front piece with the main fabric face up.

Step 14: Place your main back piece on top, with right sides together.

Step 15: Flip the entire group over, so that now the lining side is face up.

Step 16: Place your lining back piece on top, with right sides together.

Step 17: Pin/clip and sew entire outer edge with 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 2″ – 3″ opening along one of the straighter sides.

Step 18: Clip into the top point seam allowance as closely as you can, without clipping through your stitches.  Trim around entire outer edge, for easy and cleaner turning.

Step 19: Turn your pouch right sides out, through the opening of the main fabric pieces.

Step 20: Press and smooth out all corners, round edges and bottom point.

Step 21: To close up your opening with no raw edges showing, pinch three of the raw edges together…treating them as one.  And the fourth raw edge as it’s own.

Step 22: Tuck raw edges in and pin/clip.

Step 23: Using your favorite blind stitch, close up the opening.

Step 24: You’re finished!  Go fill your new heart pouch with whatever goodies will fit in it, or gift it to someone who will do the same.

Are you someone who considers themselves to be more of a visual learner?  Here’s a video that walks you through all of the same steps above.  Hopefully it helps!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Heart Pouch that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Valentine’s Day, friends!

Filed Under: Free Pattern, Pattern Release 20 Comments

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