Nicole Lanzarotto, Author at Patterns for Pirates

P4P Raglan Week: Keyhole/Scoopback Raglan Hack

September 23, 2016

The classic basic silhouette of a raglan makes for a great base to play with fabric pairings and adding extra details to change them up a bit. I often look at boutique style for inspiration and the keyhole, scoop back has been a popular request among members in the P4P Facebook Group so we thought we’d share the how-to. I used the Slim Fit Raglan for my example, but this could easily be applied to any of the raglan patterns.

Print and assemble your pattern as usual.
Decide how low you would like your key hole and measure from the nape of your neck to desired length. I wanted the keyhole to sit just above my bra-line so went with 8″.
Draw your keyhole curve, starting 1″ inside the edge where you would attach your sleeve down to the length you desire. I didn’t have a french curve handy, so actually used the curve from the armscye of the sleeve pattern piece as a guide. Cut out keyhole.

Construct your raglan as usual.
We are going to bind the keyhole with the traditional knit binding method but you could also do a t-shirt band (like the neckband in the pattern) as another option. Measure the keyhole length then multiply by 90% (this is your width measurement) You will stretch the binding just ever so slightly to fit the opening. This will help keep the keyhole from gaping and lie flat. Binding = 2″ x width.

With right sides together, pin binding to keyhole, matching raw edges. Stitch with 3/8″ seam allowances.

Press seam allowance up and fold binding down towards raw edge. Fold again, enclosing seam allowance.

Alternatively, if using a thicker fabric for your binding, you can skip the first fold and just fold the binding over enclosing the raw edge.

Top-stitch with your favorite stretch stitch.

For the neckline, we will use the same binding method as shown above for the keyhole but need to take a few measurements to determine the length of binding you will use for the neckline only.

Measure your neckline. Pictured: shirt on the fold so my neckline is 2 times the length.

Neckbands are typically smaller than the neckline to bring it in and prevent gaping. To determine the amount of the binding for the neckline, multiply the length by 85%. Neckline = 24″ (it looks like 23″ but actually measures 12″ on the fold) so my binding length for the neckline is about 20.5″. Total Binding = 2″ x 58″.

Fold your binding in 1/2 to find the center point. My neck binding length is 20.5″ so we will measure out 1/2 to each side of center point. (or 10.25″ for my example). Mark end points.

With right sides together and aligning raw edges, match center point and end points of neckline and binding. Stitch with 3/8″ seam allowance from endpoint to endpoint to endpoint (neckline only).

Press seam allowance up and press binding down towards raw edge. Fold again, enclosing seam allowance.

Continue folding towards the end of the tails.

Top-stitch with your favorite stretch stitch.
Tie a bow and your done!

If you’ve created your very own version of a Keyhole, Scoopback Raglan during P4P Raglan week, we would love for you to share it with us! Head over to the Facebook Group or share on Instagram. And be sure to use the tag #P4PRaglanWeek so we can find you!

Curious about what else has been happening during our raglan-loving week of fun?

Just take a look at our schedule!

Monday, September 19: Jolly Roger Raglan Pattern Update + Jolly Roger Add-On Pack Pattern Release

Tuesday, September 20: JRR Woven Fabric Hack

Wednesday, September 21: JRR Animal Faces Add-On

Thursday, September 22: Contrast Band Hack for Kangaroo Pockets

Friday, September 23: Women’s Keyhole / Scoopback Raglan Hack

Saturday, September 24: Off-The-Shoulder Raglan Hack

Sunday, September 25: Adding Stripes to Your Raglan Sleeves

Pattern Testing: How to become part of the Crew

August 6, 2016

So you want to be a Pirate?

“Ooooo! I would love to test for you.” and “How do I become a tester?” are frequent posts in the P4P Facebook Group. We are constantly on the look out to add talented ladies to our testing pool so we thought we’d give you the nitty gritty of what it takes to be a pattern tester and how to get picked.

Why do we need Pattern Testers? All patterns are drafted based on average body measurements but we need people to sew them up and try them on to ensure the proper fit. We also want to be sure that the instructions are not only grammatically correct but understandable by all levels of seamstresses.

The Pattern Testing Process:

Pre-testing: Once a pattern has been drafted, it is pre-tested. Before we even send out the pattern to our testers, we sew them up to determine if the fit and ease of the pattern is what we are looking for. We usually sew up one of each of the options to be sure to work out any issues before it goes in to live testing. In some cases, we will modify a pattern numerous times before deciding on the final versions. This is also where we really hash out what options, finishing methods, fabric suggestions we will include in the pattern. Our phones are filled with tons of pre-test and fit pics so we thought we’d share a few! 😉
Tester Call: We are ready to do a full test on the pattern. We post a call in our tester pool and our testers sign up for the size and options they’d prefer. Our testing period usually runs about 1 week, unless we find there are issues and it needs to be extended. It is crucial to be sure that the deadlines are able to be met as well as having updated and current measurements. We rely on feedback from the testers regarding fit so is very important to be testing the item in the proper size. We usually have 20-40 testers per pattern depending on the options and size range.
Testing: Sizes and options are assigned to testers. This is when all fit issues and edits to the tutorial are completed. Testers are to provide feedback about the the overall tutorial as to if its understandable and concise as well as any fit issues. Some fit issues that we may run into are too low of an armscye, too much or not enough ease, gaping armholes and necklines, etc. so some patterns will require multiple revisions. Although a tester is only required to complete one full item, many decide to sew up the revised and final versions during the testing week. This means, the pattern pieces are printed multiple times and lots of fabric is used. Any photos that will eventually be used for promotion (listing pictures, pattern covers, Facebook and blog posts, etc.) are typically only the final version, or one that reflects the final version of the pattern. This was not quite the norm for us, but the slim fit raglan went through close to 5 versions in testing and 7 in pre-testing. Not everyone sewed up all versions but we did have a few that ended up making more than 5 shirts that week. During the testing week we have two deadlines; one for fit and one for feedback and final styled photos. Fit pictures are basic photos of the garment being worn and point out any issues one may have. We ask for at least 5 final styled photos that showcase the front, back, side and any details of the pattern (like pockets). These do not have to done by a professional photographer or taken with a high end camera but clear photos of the item and model are a must. We also like clean editing, so no over the top filters or photo-shopping. An example of fit and styled photos are below.
Pattern Release: All fit issues and tutorial edits have been addressed, testers final pictures have been submitted and we are ready to release to the public. We work behind the scenes to get the pattern files ready, website listings and round up blog posts and then we release. A new release is usually on sale for a week and we ask testers, if they love the pattern to share it. Some have their own blogs and will provide their own “review” and write-ups and other simply post their pics in our Facebook Group as well as other sewing groups. Final photos are also posted in an album in our Facebook Group for inspiration and promotional purposes that the members can access at any time. Check out some of our awesome testers from one of our last releases. Essential Tank Facebook Photo Album.
Celebrate: We wouldn’t be able to get this point without all our awesome testers! Testing is voluntary and not a paid position. Upon completion of the test, the tester will receive the final pattern and a big thank you.

So now that you see what we do in testing, you ask, “How can I become part of the testing pool?”

When a new pattern is ready to go in to testing, we do a call in our testing pool first. Sometimes we fall short on volunteers so will do a wide spread call in our Facebook Group to fill in where we need. This is rare, but has happens a few times and if the test is successful, we add those ladies to the testing pool.
Facebook Members are given the first opportunity to test. We hand pick a few ladies from the group and ask if they would like to test the next pattern. We “get to know you” by your posts in the group. We are constantly looking for familiar faces that show off their P4P items in the group to add to the group! We look for the following:
- Active group members who are familiar with our patterns and help out in the group by answering questions (Why? Testers are often asked a lot of questions about the new release and we love for the testers to be available and active in the group!)
- Posting pics of their completed P4P projects
- Ladies who are in the size range that we need to fill-in

Check out some of the gorgeous ladies we recently hand picked to test for us from our Facebook Group!!

We currently have over 100 ladies in our testing pool so I asked them to share a few things about what they felt anyone that has never tested before should know. Here’s some of what they had to say:

You’re going to use a lot of fabric, ink, tape, and paper. You’re going to take 10000000 pics that you hate and settle on 3.
It costs the tester quite a bit. It’s not just a time commitment, but a financial one as well. Also, MAKE THE PATTERN AS-IS. Its impossible for a designer to test their pattern correctly if the actual pattern is never actually tested. It doesn’t matter if you’re afraid that you or your child will grow out of it in a few months. You are testing and that’s a sacrifice you have to make.
People will expect you to know everything about the pattern. All the options, best fabric to use, where to get fabric, how it fits on various sizes etc. Sale info.
You can’t be shy! If you see a fit problem you have to say something. I know when I first started testing I felt bad saying something that might come across negative but had to get over that fast!
Remeasure for EVERY test.
Don’t wait until the last minute to make your garment. You never know which kid will start puking, which needle will break, or when the power decides to go out. Start ASAP and get it done on time. When in doubt of time, opt out of volunteering. There are many people that would love to take your place for that test. Making a commitment you can’t keep is way worse than politely declining and maybe trying again next time.
You need to sew step by step with the tutorial steps as written. It takes me 10x longer than if I were sewing on my own but you need to be as precise & exact to what’s instructed & as the pattern prints.
Get a remote clicker for your camera or find a buddy because most husbands don’t understand this process!
Most patterns are not perfect the first run, so patience with fitting and adjustments are a must. You are a tester… Testing by trial and error. Take it for all the pain and glory.

Pattern testing is a lot of WORK, but it is also fun and can be so rewarding! Our testers agree.

I enjoy testing because having a deadline really helps to motivate me to sew!
My absolute favorite is being a part of the team that helps these fabulous mamas succeed in their dreams!
Pros: making friends all over the world, being part of the design process, sharing and being proud of your work, learning new techniques and improving my sewing and photography skills
I think the biggest thing to realize is that it’s not about the “free pattern” or getting it first- testing for me is truly about being a part of the process! It is so much fun to see the behind the scenes, how much work it takes to get the pattern perfect (which often means a lot of fabric, printing, taping= $$ which counteracts the notion of a free pattern!), learning from all of the amazing women in the group, but most of all- getting to know all of the amazing women!

Phew! So there you have it! Are you ready to join the crew? Show us what you got and share you creations in the P4P Facebook Group. You might just be the next member to be given a chance. Happy Sewing!

P4P University:: Grading Sizes

June 20, 2016

Patterns for Pirates grades to a true curvy, hourglass, 5’5″ frame. Often times, one’s measurements may not fit within one size for bust, waist, and hip and in order to keep the intended fit of the garment, grading sizes is needed. Is it always necessary to grade sizes? No, but depending on the fit and ease of the item, it may be worth taking the extra step to custom fit it to your measurements. Unsure if you want to grade? Check out the Shirt Fits Explained post and our post about Ease as they may help you decide if you are comfortable with a different fit. For some of the looser cut tops like the Everyday Elegance and Relaxed Raglan, grading up a size for the waist is likely, not necessary as they are straight cuts from the bust down. But a top like the Layer Me Up, that is very fitted to the body would fit the best if graded to your measurements/size. Be sure to measure yourself prior to sewing! Our measurements tend to fluctuate without us really noticing, so I try to measure myself every couple of weeks to be sure I am still sewing the same size my measurements put me. Not sure where to measure? Read this: How to Measure Yourself. Below is the size chart for reference.

Now that you have determined your size and if you’d like to grade, how do you do it? Below are a few examples of grading for a larger waist and hip size. Any adjustments should be made to both the FRONT and BACK pieces. Do not be discouraged if your measurements put you within different or larger sizes than ready-to-wear store-bought clothes as pattern sizing does not translate the same. Our bodies come in all shapes and sizes, and we are all uniquely beautiful. The beauty of sewing for oneself is the ability to create an item custom fit to you.

Still need help or have more questions about P4P patterns? Join us over in the P4P Facebook Group and get to sharing!

P4P University :: Peg Leg 101

March 21, 2016

Have you heard about P4P’s Peg Legs? And no, we are not talking about those wooden pirate legs! P4P released the Peg Legs some months back in celebration of reaching 5k members in the P4P Facebook Group. (crazy right!?!? since we just celebrated reaching 15k members last month!) If you don’t have them, you can grab them HERE and don’t forget to join the Facebook Group for a special promo code (check the pinned post for details)! In the last few months, we’ve seen the good, the bad, the fails and the “HAAALLPP” questions posted frequently. So, just like any introductory 101 college course, we are going to give you all the basics with this crash course to make a successful pair of Peg Legs!

First and foremost, if you are new to P4P, check out our First Time User Tips. Pattern Assembly, a few fabric shops, general cutting instructions, and sewing machine stitches are all discussed there. So now that you’re familiarized with P4P, here we go!

What are Peg Legs? A classic mid-rise, tight fit leggings pattern for 4 way stretch knit fabrics. Options include 4 lengths: shorties, bike, capri and ankle with a no elastic waistband.
Sizes Included: XXS – Plus 3x
Fabric Recommendations: 4 way stretch knit with at least 50% stretch (vertically and horizontally). Typically 5% spandex or more will work.
- Cotton Lycra/spandex (note- Lycra=spandex). Medium weight is usually 10oz or more
- Rayon spandex. This is typically thinner so may not be opaque. One of our tunic tops to cover your booty are a MUST 😉
- Nylon spandex / Supplex – great for performance wear. This usually has a higher content of spandex and will feel tighter, much like compression wear. Some prefer to size up 1 for a more comfortable fit.
- Polyester spandex – brushed polyester spandex is what many of the boutique leggings are made from however, it is a slightly harder to find the fabric in retail stores. Be sure to check the vertical stretch percentage as some may be less than the 50% require stretch.
- Stretch Fleece – Fabrics such as Polartec Powerstretch are a 4 way stretch fleece. Regular fleece, like blizzard, anti-pill and cuddle fleece found in retail stores are NOT recommended.

Fabric is extremely important to get an accurate fit. Here is an example of the same size medium, capri length made from a 2 way stretch ponte de roma and a 4 way stretch rayon spandex. You can see the overall fit of the 2 way stretch is much shorter in length and has a lower rise. I am able to put on the 2 way stretch pair but because there is no vertical stretch, they do not stretch and bend with movement and tend to slip down over time. While they are a super cute fabric, sadly, they sit in my drawer as they are not comfortable to wear.

STRETCH PERCENTAGES

So, you ask, how do I know if my fabric is 4 way 50% stretch knit? A 4″ piece will stretch to a minimum of 6″ both vertically and horizontally. Below is a stretch percentage guide. Cut a scrap piece of your fabric 4″ x 4″. Fold in half so it is now 2″ x 4″ and place at the end of the stretch guide. Hold fabric at one end (where indicated) and grab the opposite end and stretch. If you can stretch the fabric to 5.2″, your fabric has 30% stretch, 5.7 is 40% and so on. Unfold and refold the opposite direction and test again. To determine horizontal stretch, your grainline will run vertically with the stretch perpendicular and horizontal. The vertical stretch is with the grainline. For a printable copy, head on over to our Facebook Group and download a copy from the files section. 🙂 Need more help? Megan from Made from Mermaids has a great blog post with video about stretching fabrics. You can check it out HERE.

PICKING YOUR SIZE

Now that you have checked your fabric, how do you pick your size? If you are unsure on how to measure your body, check out our “How to Measure Yourself” post. The peg legs use the high hip (where your hip bones are) and the hip (across the fullest part of your booty) measurements to determine size. If you are in different sizes for your high hip and hip, you can grade between the two or use one size for the waistband and the other for your “legs”. This works best for those that have a high hip 1 size smaller than their hip. If your high hip is larger than your hip, it would be best to grade your sizes.

ADJUSTING THE RISE AND LENGTH

The Peg Legs are a mid rise legging, meant to hit under your belly button. For those wanting a higher rise or more tummy coverage, you can either add a taller waistband than the pattern calls for or increase the rise of the legs and use the existing waistband measurements.

Taller waistband: increase height of waistband to 10″ instead of 7″
Fold Over Yoga Band: double the height of waistband to 14″

To increase the rise of the legs: 1) follow the curve of the rise to a larger size on the pattern and blend. OR 2) Slash and Spread – Cut the pattern horizontally through the rise, add the desired amount and smooth out the curves.

Our patterns are drafted for a curvy 5’5″ frame. Using the same principle as found in our Petite & Tall Fitting Adjustment post, you will adjust your length of the legs by 1/2″ for every 1″ over or under 5’5″. The Peg Legs’ have a 28″ inseam for ankle length. If your inseam is shorter or longer, you will adjust to your desired length in the same manner.

Determine the amount you need to adjust your length by. Using the principle above – A 5’10” woman would need an additional 2.5″ (5’10” – 5’5″ = 5″ ~ 5″ x .5″ = 2.5″ ). A 5″1″ woman would need 2″ subtracted (5’1″ – 5’5″ = 4″ ~ 4″ x .5″ = 2″). It is best to split the total length that needs to be added or subtracted throughout the entire leg. Slash and spread the pattern in equal parts and blend the lines. The most common areas to adjust are the shorties, bike, and capri lengths as there are cut lines already indicated on the pattern. You may also need to adjust the rise, higher or lower depending on your desired height.

CUTTING YOUR FABRIC

You will need the following: 2 legs (mirror images) and 1 waistband. Note: the greatest stretch should be horizontal and what goes around the body. To create mirror images you can cut your fabric two ways:

Cut 1 pattern piece with pattern writing face up. Flip your pattern piece over and cut again.

Cut your pattern piece with fabric on the fold to create mirror images with 1 cut.

Once you’ve assembled your pattern, pre-washed your fabric and cut your pattern pieces you are ready to sew up a pair! Because this is a great beginning knit project, we have included a quick video tutorial! Enjoy!

Sewn up a pair of Peg Legs? We would love to see what you are all creating. Join the Facebook Group and share away.

Button Cuff Hack!

January 26, 2016

I look to online boutiques and Pinterest for sewing inspirations all the time. By adding small details to an existing pattern, P4P of course ;), you can transform your favorite finds into your very own me-made version. During the entire month of January we are running a #PINspiredPIRATES contest. I took on the challenge and added a super cute button cuff to the Slim Fit Raglan. You can use any of the knit shirt patterns as a base, but chose the Slim Fit Raglan since it was the best to recreate the overall look. (original inspiration pic credit: Three Birds Nest.)

Supplies: 4-6 buttons; knit scraps, small hair ties, fold over elastic, ribbon (whatever you’d like to use for the loops)

Most of the cuffs included in the patterns are a little shorter than I wanted, so I added 1″ to the length. Since both ends of the button cuff are finished, I added to the width to account for the seam allowance. Refer to your cut chart in the pattern for measurements, then add 1″ to each. Cut 2.

Cut 6 button loops. You can choose what you would like to use for your loops. I went the easy route and cut 1/2″ strips of knit that was the same fabric as my cuffs. Since knit does not unravel, you can leave the edges raw. I pulled them taught so that it would roll in on itself. I cut them 2.5″ long but after completion they ended up a little too long for the smaller size button I used. I wrapped them twice around to keep the cuff closed. I would use 1.75″-2″ depending on your button size.

Fold cuffs right sides together.

Fold loops in half lengthwise and place them equal distance apart between your cuff layers. Be sure to leave at least 1/2″ from raw edge for your seam allowance when attaching your cuff. I just kind of eyeballed their placement to be sure they were even.

Stitch Short ends. Be sure to catch the raw edges of your loops.

Turn Right side out.

Add buttons. Be sure to attach buttons at opposite ends to create mirror images, otherwise, you will end up with 2 cuffs with tabs in the same direction.

Button the cuffs. Again, be sure to button them so you have mirror images.

Baste open edges together. I used a zigzag stitch to tack them together. Do not stitch through all layers or you will sew your cuff shut. You are only stitching through 2 layers of fabric.

Insert cuff inside sleeve with right sides together. Buttons should be lined up to the folded side of sleeve with button loops pointing to the back.

Stitch with 1/2″ seam allowance.

VOILA!

Followed this hack? Or came up with something of your own? We would love to see it! Share your latest make in the Patterns for Pirates facebook group, on Instagram (@patternsforpirates) and don’t forget to submit your PINspiredPIRATES entries by January 31st with tag: #PINspiredPIRATES

Women’s Raglan Nursing Mod

January 19, 2016

If you’re a nursing mom, you know that there are not many fashionable and functional tops out there for nursing that are reasonably priced. After having my little one last year, I quickly realized I wanted a nursing hoodie. I usually just wore a camisole and did the pull up method, but with a hoodie or sweater, that’s not quite as easy. I searched a few sites for inspiration and came up with a mod that works great for the looser relaxed cut tops. We just so happen to be testing the raglan add on pack at the time, so I used the Women’s Raglan as my base. This mod works best with thicker, more stable knits like French Terry, jegging (what I used in the tutorial), fleeced back knit, cotton Lycra, Ponte de Roma and so on. If using a knit with poor recovery, you will want to invest in some clear elastic.

First, you will cut two (2) Front pattern pieces on the FOLD. One will be your under layer and only needs to be about half the length. Measure from armpit to a couple inches below your bust. My example is approximately 9″ from armpit to bottom edge.

UNDER LAYER: Cut a “V” from about 2″ from bottom edge to top. You can also keep fabric on the fold and cut a diagonal line to create the “V”. Since knit does not unravel, you can choose to either leave the V and bottom edge raw, or finish the edges with your preferred method. You can also add a band at the bottom edge. I would recommend measuring the width and subtracting a couple of inches. This will help tighten the under layer and keep it under your bust.

TOP LAYER: Cut a semi-circle from each side. (tip: cutting the curves while the fabric is still on the fold will keep them equal) My curves start at approximately 4″ from neckline to 7″ from armpit however, you can adjust the curve to your liking based on your bust size and how deep you would like them.

Fold under curve 1/2″ to the wrong side and finish using a stretch stitch, zig zag or cover stitch. If your knit is less stable with poor recovery, add clear elastic in the hem for extra stability.

Place top layer wrong side to right side of the under layer. (my picture shows opposite, as I later decided to use the wrong side of the fabric as the right side of my finished garment.) Baste neckline and side seams.

This is now your new front piece. Continue construction of the raglan as shown in the tutorial. Finished product = An awesome nursing friendly hoodie or sweater! Once you’re done nursing you can go back and topstitch the curves closed and have an added design detail that no one would ever know it was for nursing.

Followed this nursing hack? Or came up with something of your own? We would love to see it! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group!

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