Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 3

 

Welcome to the third day of the Kelli and Charli sew along. Today we work on the front gathers and the side seams.

FRONT GATHER

Let’s start by setting the sewing machine to a gathering stitch. I like mine set to the longest length stitch (five) and lowest tension (zero). Find what works best for you and your machine. Run two gathering stitches (without backstitching) at approximately 3/8″ and 5/8″ from the raw edge on the front piece that has a longer side seam. In doing so, one of the gathering stitches will be in the seam allowance, one will be out of it. Pull the two threads (bobbin thread is easier to pull) so that the notches on the side seams match the on the front and back. 

If you are doing the facing style, you will not add gathering stitches to the facing, only the main fabric. Once you gather the side to match the notch on the back side seam, tie knots at the start and the end of the basting stitches to keep them in place. I also encourage you to baste the facing to the gathered front side seam, wrong sides together to keep it in place. 

SIDE SEAMS 

I like to baste the two front pieces at the side seam first. Make sure that the gathered one goes on top. Now you will treat the two front pieces as one. Pin the front and back bodices at the side seam and stitch with a stretch stitch or serger. The sleeves will be added in the round later on. 

You can see in today’s video how I work on the bodice. Once you finish the steps, check in with a photo of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of the Kelli/Charli sew along. 

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 2 | shoulder seams and facing

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 3 | gather front and sew side seams

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 4 | add sleeves

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 5 | create skirt

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 6 | attach skirt and hem

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

New Pattern Release :: Grace Dress

I  have  been  longing  for  spring  weather…and  with  that  day  dreaming  of  warmer  weather  came  the  vision  of  the  Grace  Dress…but  it  is  still  flipping  back  and  forth  WILDLY  from  cold  to  warm  here,  so  I made  sure  to  have  some  cooler  weather  options  too…

The Grace Dress is a perfect woven dress that can take you year round and give you enough styles to create some amazingly wardrobe staples.  With all the different sleeves,  length options, and the comfortable and flattering silhouette you will be fun, flirty, and romantic with this gorgeous flowy style.

The Grace Dress is a great basic woven dress.  You can use this pattern to build perfect classic dresses with that will take you to any occasion.  Drafted for a non-stretch, woven apparel fabric with good drape means you will be able to swish and swoosh your skirts around feeling extra glamourous. The different length and sleeve options mean you can use this pattern to create a wide variety of finished dresses that work for any season.

The above knee length is a fun length for warmer months, but if you prefer a little more coverage on your legs add the ruffle option to go to knee length.  The midi length is a very on trend length going to mid calf and looking very polished.  And the maxi length is a gorgeous vacation look with the ruffle along the bottom that will have you feeling like a million bucks!

The sleeves are all a romantic silhouette with flutter sleeves both short sleeved and a half sleeve length for those who want that flutter look, but want more arm coverage.  3/4 and long sleeves are perfect for cooler weather and are a phenomenal bishop with all that lush fullness around the the bottom of the sleeve. The v neckline is a perfect open neckline that is super flattering, but high enough that it can be worn to all events.

If these weren’t enough options, you can also choose to make the bodice a button up bodice (hello nursing friendly) or the entire dress button up… which is worth the extra time and effort of adding because it is absolutely adorable! Worried about sewing up the Grace? DON’T! We have helpful blog posts and videos linked on almost every single step in the tutorial! Here are just some of the videos in the tutorial in the Grace Dress Youtube Playlist.

The options for the Grace Dress include:

  • Short Flutter Sleeve, Half Flutter Sleeve, 3/4 Bishop Sleeve, Long Bishop Sleeve
  • Knee/Above Knee, Knee with Ruffle, Midi, and Maxi with Ruffle
  • Plain Bodice, Button Up Bodice Only, Button Up Dress
  • Youth also includes a button on back bodice for plain option for getting over baby/toddler noggins easily

The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X for the Adult Hourglass Figure. *Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.

And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

GRACE DRESS OPTIONS
 
SLEEVE OPTIONS ::  SHORT FLUTTER, HALF FLUTTER
 
SLEEVE OPTIONS ::  3/4 BISHOP, LONG BISHOP
 
 
 
SKIRT LENGTHS ::  KNEE/ABOVE KNEE ADULT, KNEE WITH RUFFLE, MIDI, AND MAXI WITH RUFFLE
 
BUTTON UP OPTIONS ::  PLAIN BODICE, BUTTON UP BODICE ONLY, BUTTON UP DRESS

 
 
FABRIC INSPIRATIONS ::
 

I can’t wait to see everyone feeling fabulous in their new Grace Dresses!  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the new patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, Saturday March 30, 2022.

Grace Dress- YOUTH

Grace Dress- ADULT

Grace Dress BUNDLE

Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

 Grace Dress – Youth Album

Grace Dress-Adult Album

We also have a few hacks to show off as well here:

Grace Dress- Hack Blog Post

Grace Dress- Easy Hacks

Ahoy pirates! The newest P4P pattern is here and it’s a must have. The gorgeous Grace dress features so many sleeves options but we just had to show you one more. We couldn’t let this release happen without showcasing probably the easiest hack in the history of hacks…the Grace flared sleeve.

 

Djem here, with another simple hack for some cool flared sleeves! Can’t decide between the flutter sleeve or the bishop sleeve? Want a mash of the two? Flared sleeves is the answer!

This can be done using either the 3/4 sleeve or long sleeve bishop options. Simply omit the elastic and then finish the hem using the narrow hem instructions for the flutter sleeve. Voila!

 

Facing Hack

If you, like me, are getting ready to cut out the fabric for your Grace Dress and realise that you have forgotten to buy your lining fabric, you can very easily make a facing instead. It won’t work if you are using a translucent fabric, like a chiffon (as you will be able to see the facing through the main fabric) but for the crepe I had picked out for my Grace, it worked perfectly. 

 

First of all you will start by taking your main bodice front and back pieces, and drafting your facing pieces. I use a projector these days, but if you have a paper pattern you can use a tracing paper or just re print the pages that give you the necklines of both bodice pieces. 

 

Take your front bodice and trace off the original neck cutline, then using a measuring tape or ruler mark 2 inches away along the length of the neckline. Then join the dots. You can use a French curve to help you here. 

 

Do the same for the back bodice neckline. These will be your facing pieces. 

 

Cut these out of your fabric and you will have two pieces that look like this. 

 

Then cut out the same facing pieces from a light weight interfacing. This will help stabilise the neckline and give a better finish. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of your facing pieces following the manufacturers instructions.

Sew them together, rights sides together, at the shoulder seams. 

 

If you haven’t already, sew your front and back main bodice pieces together at the shoulder seam. Then lay your facing pieces, rights sides together with the main bodice pieces, matching the fronts and backs together and matching the shoulder seams.  Sew them together around the neckline. Making sure not to stretch the fabric as you sew. 

 

Finish the raw edge (the long, outer curved edge you haven’t just sewn to the bodice) of your facing using a serger or your preferred method.  Using a sharp pair of scissors, like these duck bill scissors, CAREFULLY trim down your facing seam allowance only to a ¼”. This will layer the seam allowances and reduce bulk. Then clip along the neckline, up to, but not through, the seam line. Turn through and give it a good press. 

 

You now have two options. You can use a hemming tape, like this Wundaweb, to fuse the facing to the outer which stops it flipping out, or you can top stitch the facing down. I did both! 

 

That’s it. You can now finish the rest of your garment as per the tutorial. 

Enjoy your beautiful new frock.

 

Happy Sewing! 

Dana x

 

How gorgeous do Djem and Dana look? I must admit, I will be adding these sleeves to my next Grace dress. I am thinking lace! I can’t wait to what your take will be on the Grace dress.

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 2

Ahoy, pirates! It’s time to start sewing our beautiful Kelli and Charli dresses. Today we work on the bodice. Start by sewing the back pieces, right sides together. Kelli has a seam down the back so the it fits those beautiful hourglass shapes perfectly. 

TIP: sew this project on the sewing machine if you are going for a very elegant, luxurious look. Press all your seams open as you go. 

Sew the shoulder seams right sides together. You can add clear elastic in the seam allowance for a very good hold. I encourage you to do that if the fabric you are using is on the heavier side or you are making the floor length dress. If you opted for the facing style, repeat the steps with the facing pieces. 

As you saw in yesterday’s video, I am sewing the elastic neckline finish for my Kelli dress but I know some of you prefer the facing style. In the bonus video below I show you how to create the facing sleeveless tank using the “burrito roll” method.

If you opted for the elastic neckline, start by “exercising” your 1/4″elastic. You will now stitch the elastic to the wrong side of the neckline, at the raw edge. I like to do this step using a ride zig zag stitch. Fold the elastic over towards the wrong side and sew down with either a zig zag stitch, an overcasting stitch or a coverstitch.

In day 2 video I show you these steps using exclusively my sewing machine. Once you complete the steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 2 photo of the Kelli and Charli sew along album. See you back here tomorrow for day 3! 

 

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 2 | shoulder seams and facing

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 3 | gather front and sew side seams

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 4 | add sleeves

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 5 | create skirt

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 6 | attach skirt and hem

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 1

 

Welcome to the Kelli and Charli sew along!

Remember the sew along poll we did in the Patterns for Pirates facebook group back in early January? You all made your voices heard. The Lumberjack vs Kelli/Charli sew along preference was such a close poll that I knew we had to have a dress sew long after the button up shirt. If you missed the Lumberjack Sew along definitely check it out. 

If you have not purchased the Kelli and/or Charli patterns, join the M4M & P4P sew along group! Not only for the daily sew along check in and prizes but also to grab the exclusive coupon code we have for the patterns. 

Kelli and Charli Bundle

Kelli dress

Charli dress

As always, day 1 is reserved to cutting the fabric and gathering any additional supplies. So let’s talk FABRIC! Both the Kelli and the Charli dresses are drafted for light to medium knit fabric that has 40% – 50% horizontal stretch. Some vertical stretch is recommended too, not lot but some, to make the dress more comfortable when worn. Examples of fabric bases that would work nicely with this patterns are:

* stretch velvet

* stretch lace 

* the ohh so popular DBP (double brushed poly)

*cotton spandex

*some athletic knits

*sweater knits

*ribbed knits

*waffle knits

* some poly blend knits

For the Kelli dress that you will see me sew throughout the week, I will be using a gorgeous burgundy glitter velvet from Mily Mae Fabrics. MMF is also this sew along’s sponsor so our lucky winner will receive a $25 gift card to shop their website. Mily Mae Fabric stocks some of to most beautiful non inspired fabrics in a huge variety of bases. You can definitely find  some for the whole family.

Now that you have your fabric picked, it’s time to select the size(s). Make sure that you get an accurate measurement for the bust, waist and hips. Here is a very help blog post about measuring yourself. The Kelli dress is fitted so you do not want to skip blending sizes if you need too. Take a look over our Grading blog post to get an idea of how best tom blend the pattern sizes. 

Both the Kelli and the Charli dresses are packed with options. From sleeve length to skirt styles, there is something for every occasion. If you are not yet convinced of the style you’re making for the sew along, a great place to start is the Round Up release blog where you can get a breakdown of all options as well as some tester inspiration. 

In day 1 video, I show you how to cut the Kelli dress using a projector. If you are new to Projector for sewing, check out our informative blog. Once you complete today’s steps, post a picture of your cut fabric in the comments of Day 1 photo of the Kelli/Charli SAL album. You can find the album in the M4M & P4P sew along group on Facebook. See you back here tomorrow!

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 2 | shoulder seams and facing

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 3 | gather front and sew side seams

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 4 | add sleeves

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 5 | create skirt

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 6 | attach skirt and hem

Kelli and Charli sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

New Pattern Release :: Modern Sweater

I’m celebrating my birthday today by sharing this brand new pattern with you! I hope you love it as much as we do! The Modern Sweater is the perfect balance of on trend details with classic looks that you can reach for years to come.  The neckline is a perfect relaxed crew neck with several options to finish it off. The entire sweater is finished with bands, making it a super quick and simple sew…. it’s very easy to make a big stack! The loose fit is a great medium between comfortable and cozy and still figure flattering. The length options mean you can pair it with any bottoms you’re loving at the moment.

  The Modern Sweater is the perfect comination of modern looks with classic options too. You can choose from the on trend lantern sleeves or go with the traditional sleeves.  Pick from crop lengths that is all the rage right now with high waisted bottoms or go for the never out of style shirt length.  You can add on a short or tall waistband a get more variety on length as well.  The crop with tall waistband gives you more coverage while keeping the blouse at the flattering point in your figure…while adding it to the shirt length will give you more of a tunic length.  The neckline options can give you very different looks and can take you from fall into winter.  The neckline is slightly deeper and wider that a traditional crew neckline, which is comfortable and right on trend in todays shops.  The thicker neckband give it a super classic casual look.  The turtleneck going from that deeper neckline up the neck is such a cute look.  While you can’t get cozier than the fold over turtleneck for keeping warm. The options for the Modern Sweater include:

  • Neckband, Turtleneck, and Fold Over Turtleneck
  • Crop Length and Shirt Length
  • Short Waistband and Tall Waistband
  • Traditional Sleeves and Lantern Sleeves
  • Solid Bodice and Sleeves and Colorblocked Bodice and Sleeves

The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X for the Adult Hourglass Figure. *Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

MODERN SWEATER OPTIONS
BODICE LENGTHS ::
SLEEVE OPTIONS ::
 
 
COLORBLOCKED OPTIONS ::

 

 
NECKLINE OPTIONS ::
 
 
 
FABRIC INSPIRATIONS ::

I cannot wait to see everyone’s Modern Sweaters… and it won’t be long, becuase they’re so quick to whip up!  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the new patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, Saturday February 7, 2022.

MODERN SWEATER- YOUTH

MODERN SWEATER- ADULT

MODERN SWEATER BUNDLE

Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

 Modern Sweater – Youth Album

Modern Sweater-Adult Album

v

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 7

Wow!! I am so in love with all your Lumberjack shirt! You have outdone yourselves this past week. My little one said this was one of his favorite sew alongs I did. Could it be because he was the recipient of this shirt? 😉 “Mom, it’s so cool. I’ll wear it today at school!” This Lumberjack shirt was less than $9 in materials. Score!

 

But enough about me! Let’s give out some prizes!

First winner is Tammy Richards! Tammy won a $20 gift card from Patterns for Pirates and a mystery Fabric 4 Pirates package. Look at these 3 ( yes, THREE!) beautiful Lumberjack shirts she made for her loved ones. 

Our runner up is Barbara Wong. Barbara won a $20 gift card from Made for Mermaids. The Lumberjack she made looks so cozy and those covered buttons are mighty cute!

Thank you so much for joining the P4P sew along for January. I pass the baton to Colleen for the February SAL. See you back here in March! 

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 6

Good morning friends! You did it!! You made it to the last sewing day. All we have left to do today is to hem the bottom and add the closures.

HEMMING

The Lumberjack features a 1/2″ hem allowance and a curved hem. Since the shirt is woven, I find it easier to run a serger stitch along the raw edge and press 1/4″. Stitch down then fold again 1/4″. Sew with a slightly longer stitch going very slow where the front plackets are. That part is pretty bulky. Give your hem a good steam press so that you eliminated any waviness from sewing the curved hem.

CLOSURES

Time to put the finishing touch on your Lumberjack. Choose your favorite closure and mark the placement. The pattern includes a marking guide that you can print, no additional tools needed. If you add buttons and buttonholes, take a look over our  Buttons 101 P4P University blog. I give you some tips and tricks for a smooth process. For my Lumberjack I opted for metal spring snaps. I love the look of these metallic snaps and how easy they are to install. You can see how I added them in the video below. 

Great job!! All you have left to do is add your final photo to the comments of day 6 photo in the Lumberjack SAL album. That’s where the team will pick the two winners. There is still time to catch up. Winners will be announced on Tuesday. 

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Newest Patterns