Blog - Patterns for Pirates

Different Fabric, Different Fit!

May 22, 2016

Fabric choice can really make or break a garment. Not just the color or pattern, but the kind of fabric you use.

I remember begging my mom to sew a pattern intended for knits with a woven, or a flowy top with ponte roma… of course she would try to explain that it wouldn’t work, but the begging continued!

It’s not until you use the WRONG fabric that you really understand using a fabric other than what is suggested in a pattern that you’re going to alter the final outcome. It will fit and look different than intended. I almost feel like it’s a right of passage to make a few mistakes with fabric choice to really understand how important it can be! But, I will try to help you out before you make those mistakes 😉

There are TONS of fabric types out there… I mean A LOT… too many for most seamstresses to remember. But if you can familiarize yourself with what the fabric will look like made up (how it will drape and fit) then you can really help yourself when picking fabrics for a project. Feeling fabric for the amount of stretch, thickness and drape will help you pair it with the right pattern. Once you get to know the fabrics you like, you can more easily order them online for a bigger variety.

I have sewn up the exact same pattern in the same size, modeled on the same body to help show how different weights and fabric types can affect the fit and look of a garment.

I sewed up a ton of the new P4P release, the Sweet Tee, because it is such an easy, quick sew and has a semi-fitted silhouette so it can take a wide range of stretch and be wearable. So, here we go!

I will start with the fabrics with the most drape. Drape is a term meaning how the fabric falls to the body when worn. Fabrics with soft drape will be fluid and drape towards your body. Think looser fits. They will fall beautifully, and still show off your curves without needing to be tight at all. This is my FAVORITE kind of fabric for myself. I love a little looser fit with a drapey fabric. It means I can feel comfortable (not sucking in all day ;)) with a looser fit, but still not look sloppy or like I’m wearing baggy clothes- I still want to show my curves a little to be flattering. But, this is a very personal preference of course! My sister prefers more stable knits for her tees usually. Think about what shirts/garments you like and how that fabric feels and drapes and it will help you understand what you prefer!

Slub Jersey. One of my favorites to work with, it doesn’t have a ton of stretch (which makes cutting and assembling a bit easier), but has drape because it is thin and lightweight. It is light and airy to wear, but doesn’t cling and show off every lump and bump. Another fabric that fits in here would be a lightweight poly/cotton jersey blend :).

Very thin sweater knit on beige and a lightweight rayon spandex on back. You can see on both these that they drape under my bust towards my body/waist showing off curves. The loose-ness around the hips doesn’t look flared, but just relaxed. Both are a little harder to work with during cutting and assembling. The very thin sweater knit usually needs some extra support in the seams baring any weight (like shoulder seams). You can use a clear elastic to reinforce them so they don’t stretch out with wear. The rayon spandex blends are one of my all time favorites as well- I used to want my mom to make me every thing in it 😉 . It has a slinkier feel because it has such a soft drape and can be difficult to fold on grain and cut without some movement. Rayon blends are also notorious for being “clingy”, because they drape so much they also tend to show lumps and bumps you might now want to show. So, I tend to pick rayon blends for a looser fit I know has plenty of room to not cling. Or a tight fit I know will be showing off everything anyways.

Tissue Jersey on front and rayon spandex blend on back. The tissue jersey is a bit of mix, it is not at stretchy and fluid as the others, but so lightweight that is still has some good drape. But the very thin fabric also showed my bra line a bit in front there as well, so you take the good with the bad sometimes with the thin stuff ;). I like the light airy feel of tissue jersey living in a hot climate.

ITY Knit– Ity knit is a poly blend that is knitted to have a smooth face, soft drape and lots of stretch. It’s commonly used in RTW for maxi dress and skirts b/c its flows so nicely. It tends to not be as “clingy” as a rayon blend and usually a little thicker weights (although all fabrics can be found in different weights). I like an Ity knit, especially for a nicer look. When I taught kinder and wore more professional attire Ity was a great, comfortable fabric that looks a bit dressed up even with a simple tee silhouette.

On to the sweater knits! I love a sweater knit for fall, winter and even early spring! Most sweater knits have good drape, especially light to medium weight sweater knits. They tend to be thicker than a rayon spandex and might do better if you’re worried about the thin fabric showing/clinging to any lumps/bumps/bra lines.

This is a very light weight sweater knit with almost an open weave. Again, a tad see through, I will wear this one with a cami under after seeing the pictures ;). But the looser weave also feels a little looser in fit, so putting on a cami under doesn’t make it feel too tight for me.

Light weight hacci sweater knit. Again, you can see it drapes under the bust towards the waist for a flattering silheoutte. This sweater knit is plenty thick for me to not worry about having to wear a layer under as well and a bit more comfortable that it doeesn’t show quite as much detail on lumps and bumps too.

Medium weight sweater knit. This is a super soft ribbed sweater knit- It has tons of stretch and drape. As you can see it looks a bit looser because it has so much stretch and drape. I love this for a cozy sweater-I can’t wait to wear it in the fall (here in the hot south we’re already way past sweater weather!) Even though it is a thicker weight it does show my bra lines b/c it’s so drapey.

Medium weight sweater knit. This feels like an acrylic blend (it was bought from a LA detash page- so I’m guessing on content) so it has a little more body to it and doesn’t drape quite as well as the other sweater knits. It also feels a little tighter, because it doesn’t have quite as much stretch as the others. You can see it still drapes on my deeper curves (like my sway back) but goes more straight down from my bust rather then draping under.

Onto more stable knits 🙂

Cotton Spandex/Cotton Lycra. Lycra is a name brand of spandex, so they are essentially the same fabric (much like tissue is to kleenex). This has good stretch and recovery with the spandex in it, but has much more body. Meaning it will not drape towards your body, but stick out more stiff and hold it’s own shape. I prefer to use cotton spandex on tighter fits, since there is no need for drape. I find it not very flattering on a looser fit because it doesn’t drape under bust as well and will feel a bit tighter due to the thicker, more stable feel. A lot of seamstress love this fabric because it is easy to find in great prints and a wide variety of colors, as well as a bit easier to work with because it is thicker. And I love it for youth, but not for myself. If we can all gang up on the knit companies to print their amazing customs on fabric with more drape I’ll sign the petitions 😉 I just can’t feel great in most cotton spandex shirts. I didn’t even hem this one because I knew it would quickly be cut up into something for baby girl! With that said, my sister likes a cotton spandex tee because she doesn’t like her fabric to drape to her waistline/under her bust. She prefers the more stable knit. Again, all personal prefence and learning to pair it with the right pattern for yourself!

Stretch French Terry. This is a medium weight french terry with good horizontal stretch. French terry is a very popular fabric right now, and I share the love of it! But when using french terry you need to be aware that it doesn’t have great drape. As you can see, it doesn’t fall under the bust to the body, but straight down. And my sway back pooling is much more obvious. It feels tighter on as well even though it has some stretch because it is thicker. Now there are some with rayon in the blend which helps give it drape. But most french terrys are much more stable on the knit spectrum and do better as something that needs a thicker, more stable fabric like pants, shorts, jackets, sweatshirts, etc… I added a cowl on this one for a fall/winter look since french terry is a thicker, warmer fabric.

Liverpool. This is also a very popular fabric right now. It is a poly spandex blend with high horizontal stretch and a texture on the right side. It has a feeling close to scuba/techno/neoprene. It is a more stable knit without much drape. This is better suited for something that needs stretch and stability, like a tighter dress, pencil skirt, ect. It does not have good drape, as you can see it goes straight down from my bust instead of falling toward my body under towards my waist. It also makes the tiny “wings” on the dolman very bulky/poofy. I was sad to cut into this gorgeous liverpool for this example, because I knew it wasn’t a great match for this pattern-but for the good blog post I did it!!! I hopefully still have enough for something that does work well with it! It is also all polyester, so it doesn’t breathe well. So, for me in TX I can only handle a thick poly knit during winter months.

Ponte Roma would also belong in this high stretch, but more stable category. It is a poly, rayon, spandex blend and is great for the same things: tighter dresses, pencil skirts, pants, etc.

Pictures coming soon!

Cotton Jersey. This is a thinner cotton jersey. It doesn’t have a lot of stretch or recovery since there is no spandex in it. It doesn’t have great drape. This is thinner cotton jersey so it has a touch of drape just because it is thin, but anything medium weight is considered more a “t-shirt jersey” without much drape or stretch at all (think traditional t-shirts). I like this best for boys and men. I don’t love drape on a man usually, they’re shirts are cut straight and they are meant to hang pretty straight as well (Unless they have some amzing abs to show off 😉 ). For myself though I don’t love cotton jersey, but I do use it for a traditional t-shirt style from time to time. Notice is looks and feels tighter because it has very little stretch. it also sticks out from bust and booty instead of draping towards body. I have a sway back, which I didn’t alter for here (you can see the pooling of fabric on my lower back) and it is much more obvious in a stable knit then a soft, drapey knit. So if you’re still learning to perfectly alter for your body shape more stable knits are less forgiving to those alterations you may need, including full bust adjustments. I do have some tees in a jersey I love though, I like to pair it with something only semi-fitted throughout the whole body so it doesn’t feel too tight on my chest and doesn’t miss the drape on a looser area.

From top- the more stretch and drape the looser and more flowy it will look – to the bottom–the more stable and less stretch will be more stiff and tighter feeling garment. Keeping this general rule in your mind when pairing fabric to patterns will help you decide what will give you the best look and fit!

This isn’t even close to all the fabric choices that are out there, but I tried to include the most popular knits I see in the shops and being asked about in the P4P group on a daily basis! I hope it helps you when picking fabric to pair with a pattern for the perfect look and outcome!

And remember that practice makes perfect- so if you make a few garments with the wrong fabric choice, use it as a great learning experience and know you’re a better/more knowledgeable seamstress after that mistake 😉

Siren and Hello Sailor Hacks

April 25, 2016

We couldn’t help ourselves to a few hacks to the new Siren Swim Top and Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms during testing! We loved them so much we decided to share a few of our favorite quick and easy mods.

The Double Strap Hack: (My favorite! I couldn’t stop using this one 😉 )

This one is super simple and quick! You have 4 straps per cutting instructions. Instead of sewing them right sides together to create 2 straps, we sewed each strap folded in half width-wise down the long edge.

Turn right sides out.

And place both side by side on the top pick ups.

The Double, Straight and Cross Strap Hack:

Then we had even more fun doing one set of straight straps and one set of criss-cross straps… cute right?!?!? Just baste and double check you have them all placed correctly before finalizing the stitching! I slipped swim elastic inside this navy/white top straps for more support. It also keeps the straps in place and hold their shape (not get folded or wrinkled up).

Fringe Hack:

The only change during construction is that I did not sew the flounce into the side seam.

Once the top was compete I began in the center and used my rotary blade and clear quiting ruler to cut 1/4″ strips up to the seam line. I continued all across the top, keeping my slits straight. I wont lie though, it was REALLY late and I was tired… I threw the ruler aside and went at it all crazy!

I went back with scissors and clipped all the way up through the pick ups (I couldn’t get my roatary up that far without cutting through the main top pieces.

It was crazy windy on our picture day with my cousin (isn’t she the cutest?!?!) so we only caught a few where the fringe wasn’t wildly blowing around! You could do the slits as small as your patience allows for and you could also tug them a bit to let the knit curl to hide some imperfections too! It’s a fun, flirty mod! I hope you don’t mind the other watermark on her pictures, my amazing sister took these photos and edited for me :).

Double Flounce Hack:

Creating the double flounce is as simple as cutting 2 of the front and back flounce pieces. I just kind of eyeballed how much shorter I wanted the top layer flounce but ended up cutting about 1.5″ off the front and 1″ off the back. Depending on your size, you could also use a smaller size length as a guide. Be sure to keep the side seams the same length on both the front and back flounce of the layer you cut. For construction, I basted the two layers together to help keep them together as it is a little trickier to stitch 5 layers of fabric.

HELLO SAILOR BOTTOMS

Piping Detail Hack:

This adds a bit of visual interest to those paneled options! Just cut strips at least as long as your seam where your front center and front side panels meet. The width is a personal preference, but you will need double what you’d like your finished width, plus double the seam allowance (3/4″). I choose 1/4″ finished width for mine, so I cut a strip 1 1/4″ wide.

Fold strip width-wise and place right sides together matching raw edges along seam where front center and side panel meet.

Then place side panel on top and stitch with normal 3/8″ seam allowance. (You will be stitching through 4 layers of fabric)

I choose to top-stitch mine down along the folded edge.

I love the little, simple detail!

Separate Skirt Cover Up Hack:

I created a separate skirt for my cousin to use as a cover up! I just cut 1 extra waistband than the pattern calls for and sewed it to the skirt just like the waistband (folded with right sides together along the top raw edge.)

Now she can slip on the skirt when she’s walking around and take it off when she’s ready to really go swimming 🙂

One-Piece Hack:

For some, a two piece suit is not their style, so we hacked the Siren Swim Top and Hello Sailor to create an on trend one piece. You will construct your top and bottom as in the tutorial but will not attach your bottom band of the top or the waistband of the bottoms. I chose to keep the bottom band of the top for extra support, but you can omit if you choose. We will be connecting the top and bottom with a connector piece so you do not need the waistband of the bottoms. Try on your top and bottom.

To determine the length of the connector piece, measure the distance between the raw edge of your top and the top edge of your bottoms at center front and center back. You may need to find someone to help you with the back ;). Add double the seam allowance (0.75″) My gap was about 3″ so the length of my connector piece was 3.75″. I used the waistband measurement for the width of the band as I wanted it to be held tight there. Note: if your hip is much wider than your under-bust and waist, it will be difficult to pull up over your hips so you may need to shimmy it on!

Connecting the top and bottom is the same construction as the bottom band and waistband but you will be using the connector piece instead. Stitch short ends of the connector piece and bottom band. On the bottom band only, fold with wrong sides together.

Matching raw edges and wrong side facing up, slip bottom band over connector piece. You should have 3 layers of fabric. Mark in 1/4s and with right sides together, match raw edges of the connector piece to the Siren Top. Stitch. Flip open and press seam down.

Turn your Hello Sailor bottoms inside out. Matching raw edges of the connector piece, with right sides together, slip your Siren Top inside the bottom. Be sure to match the front of your top with the front of your bottoms. Stitch.

Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms | Pattern Release!

April 25, 2016

Happy pattern release day!

We are coming at you live with the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms. And you’re going to LOVE them as much as we do!

There will be no disappointment in options with these swimwear bottoms! They are a classic, high-waisted fit (think: full coverage with a slimming effect). And you get to pick and choose how you want to put them together. Solid, paneled, ruched side panels, multiple skirt options, and an easily-customizable fit are all features of the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms.

On top of that, we are providing you with some extras for this release!

Sewing your own swimwear can be intimidating. We understand. But it doesn’t have to be! That’s why we created this post to help ease some of your worries: Basics of Sewing Swim. On top of that, Judy and Nicole came up with some incredible hacks for the new release: Siren + Hello Sailor Hacks.

A huge kudos goes out to our gorgeous testers! Not only did they all survive several revisions until we got the pattern *just right*, but they were also willing to deliver some fabulous photos. It’s not easy putting yourself on the internet in a bathing suit, but these beauties made it look effortless. Feel free to poke through the photos and get some inspiration from them. And then hop on over to our Facebook group and look for more photos in our Hello Sailor Album.

And then get to sewing! It’s swimsuit season and you’re about to have the first one to ever fit you perfectly! Woot!

Siren Swim Top | Pattern Release!

April 25, 2016

Today is such a treat. And a total labor of love. We’ve been working hard behind the scenes to bring you the perfect swimsuit top and today is release day! Woohoo!

The Siren Swim Top is a winner. Just trust us! Have we steered you wrong yet?

Swimsuit season doesn’t have to be dreaded this year. The Siren Swim Top will get you the perfect fit, comfort, and lift all in one easy-to-sew top. AND you also get to choose your best style and level of coverage.

Not only does the pattern accommodate you for the proper fit around, but it also includes cup sizes! You can take your bathing suit this season one step further by sewing your A – G cup size. Can’t get any better than that!

Like all Patterns for Pirates patterns, this walks you through all of the steps in an easy to read manner. While it could sound super intimidating to work with special swim fabrics, it’s broken down into simple steps that will turn you into a bathing beauty in no time. On top of the step-by-step instructions in the pattern, we’ve also handed you some basic bullet points for sewing swimwear in a blogpost here: Basics of Sewing Swim.

The Siren Swim Top pattern comes packed full of options: cup size, pointed/straight/back flounce, criss-cross/regular straps, cups, power mesh, etc. As a bonus, Judy and Nicole also took it one step further and gave you some really fun and easy hacks. Check out their blog post here: Siren + Hello Sailor Hacks.

And don’t forget to gather all of the inspiration you can from our darling testers. We are lucky to have such gorgeous women, willing to share these images with us! If these pictures aren’t enough, be sure to head over to our album on Facebook: Siren Swim Top Album. Now get to sewing!

Basics of Sewing Swim

April 25, 2016

As I’m approaching my very first swimsuit pattern release, I realize there will be a lot of questions about sewing swim!

So here are some bullet points you’ll need to know before you jump into your first suit! 🙂

Common Questions:

What type of fabric do you need?
- Nylon Spandex is the traditional swim knit. There are also some polyester spandex blends that are capable of with standing the chlorine and can hold up to the activity.
- My favorite suit I made was out of supplex, a nylon spandex. I almost always use a nylon spandex rather than the poly blends, it’s just my personal preference.
- Just like all fabric types you will have a wide range of quality. Great swim knit can be a breeze to work with, while cheaper/thinner/slinkier swim knit can really test your patience ;). If you’re sewing swimwear for the first time, I’d recommend buying a good quality swim knit even if you’re nervous. It is much easier to work with!
- How can you tell if it will be easy or more difficult to work with online? Watch the weight- steer clear of lightweight, drapey descriptions and try to stick with medium weight knits.
- Lining- You can use a swim lining or just self line with more swim knit. The self lined suit will most likely fit and feel a bit tighter because usually your swim knit is a bit more stable than the swim lining.
Do I need special thread?
- Nope 🙂 You can use standard poly thread like always.
- You can use a stretch thread in your loopers or bobbin for more stretch. I’ve done both and haven’t ever had issues with threads popping, but I recommend it if you’re planning on getting tons of wear and being very athletic in it. (I highly recommend it for youth- they wear them more often, are more active and they often get passed down to other kids throughout the years.)
What is the best stitch?
- You can use your serger or your favorite stretch stitch.
- When using my machine I usually use the lightening stitch or regular zigzag stitch. I use my coverstitch as well for finishing hems.
- I baste with a stretch stitch as well, you can technically baste with a traditional long straight stitch, but if you don’t pull your basting stitches you will hear those threads pop when you try on/wear…which can be scary ;).
What kind of needle should I use?
- You need to use a stretch needle. These are best when sewing fabric with high spandex content.
What other notions will I need?
- You will need a SWIM elastic. Even if you are using the top as a sports bra, I still recommend using the swim elastic. It has more stretch then regular elastic and will withstand the wear and tear much better.
- I highly prefer the cotton swim elastic to the clear plastic kind. It is so much easier to work with and softer.
- Don’t let the elastic scare you!
- And don’t skip it! I know a lot of ladies will use bands on swim in place of elastic, but I don’t recommend it. Elastic keeps it shape always- wet or dry. Swim fabric on the other hand gets heavier and stretches out when wet (and depending on quality can stretch enough that it is loose while swimming.) So, if you don’t ever want to loose your bottoms or have to constantly tug back in place don’t skip the elastic!!
- Here is a little video of me putting in some swim elastic to help!

How can I make sure the top is supportive enough to hold me up?
- Follow the tutorial and use all the suggestions to add more support. If you skip any, you might regret it if you’re looking to be very active or have a larger bust to hold up.
- Power mesh- this is an inner lining mesh spandex that you can use to add more support to a suit. It stretches less than swim knits, so it will hold in your body better on that section you place it. I only recommend using it in some of the suit and for adults only. I like to use it on the front of both the top and bottoms. If you have a smaller bust, you most likely will not want it in the top. It is something that will “smoosh” you like a minimizer. There are varying degrees/quality of power mesh as well. You can get looser and stronger depending on how much activity and “smoosh” you’d prefer in your suit. There is also “power net” which is an even tighter mesh. Use this one with caution as you might need to go up a size to accommodate the amount of stretch.
- Swim cups- I used a sew in swim cup in almost all of my suits and sports bras too. I like the tighter feel (the cups don’t stretch like swim knit- so it will feel and be tighter across the chest if you sew them in.) and the thicker layer of coverage for my bust. I HIGHLY prefer the soft cups. I find the molded cups to be really unforgiving in perfect fit (lets just say the D/DD was no where NEAR fitting my D cup bust… I was really channeling the Madonna cone look :/ ) and are much more difficult to get placed perfectly and to sew in nicely and neatly. For larger then a D/DD cup you’re really only getting some coverage for the “important part”. You will need to slip your lining on (I recommend wearing a bra/sports bra) to get a good placement and make sure it’s covering that important part, pin in place, and sew in.
- Remember you’re looking for your sewing cup size- which is the difference between your upper and full bust (NOT under and full bust). You don’t want your cups oversized. They will take up too much of your top and you will loose too much stretch that you need for a good fit.
- I also have an option for adding boning to the side seams, my other sister Megan loves this one! You’ll just need lightweight boning:
Where can you get these supplies?
- Here is a Note on my sister’s (the swim suit sewing queeen ;)) FB page with tons of suppliers:
  - https://www.facebook.com/notes/coles-creations/buying-swimsuit-fabric/10150740266823620
How tight should it be?
- Traditional swimsuit fit has negative ease, meaning the finished measurement of the suit will be smaller then your body. It will have to stretch to get on. Suits are generally 20-25% negative ease. Some athletic ones (think Speedo, Nike, etc) have 30% for more intense work out/swimming needs. Don’t size up if you plan on swimming at all in it, you will need that negative ease to keep the suit in place when wet. If you are at the lower end of your size range you might even need to take a bigger seam allowance to make it snug enough (this will depend on quality of swim knit as well, the super stretchy thinner fabric will mean you will need it tighter).
- The elastic around the edges of the suit are there to help keep everything in place as well. It might “squeeze” you a bit when not wet, but again you will want that very snug to make sure your suit isn’t shifting while you’re swimming.

Have FUN sewing and swimming!

P4P University :: Peg Leg 101

March 21, 2016

Have you heard about P4P’s Peg Legs? And no, we are not talking about those wooden pirate legs! P4P released the Peg Legs some months back in celebration of reaching 5k members in the P4P Facebook Group. (crazy right!?!? since we just celebrated reaching 15k members last month!) If you don’t have them, you can grab them HERE and don’t forget to join the Facebook Group for a special promo code (check the pinned post for details)! In the last few months, we’ve seen the good, the bad, the fails and the “HAAALLPP” questions posted frequently. So, just like any introductory 101 college course, we are going to give you all the basics with this crash course to make a successful pair of Peg Legs!

First and foremost, if you are new to P4P, check out our First Time User Tips. Pattern Assembly, a few fabric shops, general cutting instructions, and sewing machine stitches are all discussed there. So now that you’re familiarized with P4P, here we go!

What are Peg Legs? A classic mid-rise, tight fit leggings pattern for 4 way stretch knit fabrics. Options include 4 lengths: shorties, bike, capri and ankle with a no elastic waistband.
Sizes Included: XXS – Plus 3x
Fabric Recommendations: 4 way stretch knit with at least 50% stretch (vertically and horizontally). Typically 5% spandex or more will work.
- Cotton Lycra/spandex (note- Lycra=spandex). Medium weight is usually 10oz or more
- Rayon spandex. This is typically thinner so may not be opaque. One of our tunic tops to cover your booty are a MUST 😉
- Nylon spandex / Supplex – great for performance wear. This usually has a higher content of spandex and will feel tighter, much like compression wear. Some prefer to size up 1 for a more comfortable fit.
- Polyester spandex – brushed polyester spandex is what many of the boutique leggings are made from however, it is a slightly harder to find the fabric in retail stores. Be sure to check the vertical stretch percentage as some may be less than the 50% require stretch.
- Stretch Fleece – Fabrics such as Polartec Powerstretch are a 4 way stretch fleece. Regular fleece, like blizzard, anti-pill and cuddle fleece found in retail stores are NOT recommended.

Fabric is extremely important to get an accurate fit. Here is an example of the same size medium, capri length made from a 2 way stretch ponte de roma and a 4 way stretch rayon spandex. You can see the overall fit of the 2 way stretch is much shorter in length and has a lower rise. I am able to put on the 2 way stretch pair but because there is no vertical stretch, they do not stretch and bend with movement and tend to slip down over time. While they are a super cute fabric, sadly, they sit in my drawer as they are not comfortable to wear.

STRETCH PERCENTAGES

So, you ask, how do I know if my fabric is 4 way 50% stretch knit? A 4″ piece will stretch to a minimum of 6″ both vertically and horizontally. Below is a stretch percentage guide. Cut a scrap piece of your fabric 4″ x 4″. Fold in half so it is now 2″ x 4″ and place at the end of the stretch guide. Hold fabric at one end (where indicated) and grab the opposite end and stretch. If you can stretch the fabric to 5.2″, your fabric has 30% stretch, 5.7 is 40% and so on. Unfold and refold the opposite direction and test again. To determine horizontal stretch, your grainline will run vertically with the stretch perpendicular and horizontal. The vertical stretch is with the grainline. For a printable copy, head on over to our Facebook Group and download a copy from the files section. 🙂 Need more help? Megan from Made from Mermaids has a great blog post with video about stretching fabrics. You can check it out HERE.

PICKING YOUR SIZE

Now that you have checked your fabric, how do you pick your size? If you are unsure on how to measure your body, check out our “How to Measure Yourself” post. The peg legs use the high hip (where your hip bones are) and the hip (across the fullest part of your booty) measurements to determine size. If you are in different sizes for your high hip and hip, you can grade between the two or use one size for the waistband and the other for your “legs”. This works best for those that have a high hip 1 size smaller than their hip. If your high hip is larger than your hip, it would be best to grade your sizes.

ADJUSTING THE RISE AND LENGTH

The Peg Legs are a mid rise legging, meant to hit under your belly button. For those wanting a higher rise or more tummy coverage, you can either add a taller waistband than the pattern calls for or increase the rise of the legs and use the existing waistband measurements.

Taller waistband: increase height of waistband to 10″ instead of 7″
Fold Over Yoga Band: double the height of waistband to 14″

To increase the rise of the legs: 1) follow the curve of the rise to a larger size on the pattern and blend. OR 2) Slash and Spread – Cut the pattern horizontally through the rise, add the desired amount and smooth out the curves.

Our patterns are drafted for a curvy 5’5″ frame. Using the same principle as found in our Petite & Tall Fitting Adjustment post, you will adjust your length of the legs by 1/2″ for every 1″ over or under 5’5″. The Peg Legs’ have a 28″ inseam for ankle length. If your inseam is shorter or longer, you will adjust to your desired length in the same manner.

Determine the amount you need to adjust your length by. Using the principle above – A 5’10” woman would need an additional 2.5″ (5’10” – 5’5″ = 5″ ~ 5″ x .5″ = 2.5″ ). A 5″1″ woman would need 2″ subtracted (5’1″ – 5’5″ = 4″ ~ 4″ x .5″ = 2″). It is best to split the total length that needs to be added or subtracted throughout the entire leg. Slash and spread the pattern in equal parts and blend the lines. The most common areas to adjust are the shorties, bike, and capri lengths as there are cut lines already indicated on the pattern. You may also need to adjust the rise, higher or lower depending on your desired height.

CUTTING YOUR FABRIC

You will need the following: 2 legs (mirror images) and 1 waistband. Note: the greatest stretch should be horizontal and what goes around the body. To create mirror images you can cut your fabric two ways:

Cut 1 pattern piece with pattern writing face up. Flip your pattern piece over and cut again.

Cut your pattern piece with fabric on the fold to create mirror images with 1 cut.

Once you’ve assembled your pattern, pre-washed your fabric and cut your pattern pieces you are ready to sew up a pair! Because this is a great beginning knit project, we have included a quick video tutorial! Enjoy!

Sewn up a pair of Peg Legs? We would love to see what you are all creating. Join the Facebook Group and share away.

Sweetheart SAL: Recap

March 21, 2016

Holy potatoes you guys! For our first Sew-A-Long, this was an amazing way to make it happen. Last week was an absolute blast and we’d like to thank you for hanging with us the entire time. There were so many remarkable dresses and peplums sewn in the last week…I can’t even handle it.

If you’d like to look back on the Sweetheart + Me Hearties dresses and peplums that were sewn and shared, go check out the album HERE.

Now let’s talk about the friendly little competition we were having. We had our gorgeous gals put their finished items into the album on Facebook and let the rest of the P4P family vote (with “likes”). Here are the three lucky gals that are walking away with some new P4P patterns! Congratulations ladies!

Fan Favorite: Molly Wynne Stonesifer

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Admin Pick: Brianna K. Karle

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Random Draw (but also incredibly gorgeous dress!): Heidi Hilmerson

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I hope you all had as much fun, and got as much out of it, as we did. Now go rock those circle skirts all over town!
Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL Day 5: Skirt + Hemming

March 18, 2016

This is it! Your dress is almost finished! Today we are attaching the skirt to the bodice and hemming it. So excited!

floral

Since there is no gathering involved in the skirt portion, it is super easy and fast to attach the skirt. But because it’s a circle skirt, the bottom hem is vast…yet totally manageable. Here are some hem options that we like!

Hem option #1: Traditional Hem

For this, you simply fold the fabric up 1/2″ toward the wrong side, press, then fold another 1/2″ and topstitch. I like to run the serger around the edge of the fabric first, so there’s more of a solid edge to work with while folding. But it’s not necessary.

hem1

Hem option #2: Bind/Use Trim

Just like you did for the arm and neck openings, you can use knit binding, FOE, trim, or even a lace. Make sure you aren’t stretching your bindings at all. And be aware that this will make your length 1 inch longer. (The circumference lengths are already included in the pattern, to make it even easier on you!)

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If using a trim, simply stitch your trim to the skirt edge, right sides together. Flip the trim down and topstitch.

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Hem option #3: Coverstitch

This gives you a more professional finish on your hems, but requires a coverstitch machine. (If you don’t have a coverstitch machine, you can simulate this look by serging the edge of your fabric, folding your fabric up 1/2 inch, and sewing with a double needle.)

Hem option #4: DON’T HEM!

Sound too good to be true? Perhaps. But in some cases, it just makes sense to leave the edges raw.
I totally left this new dress of mine with a raw edge on the skirt and I loved it. So much so that it called for a one-woman dance party.

sweetheart finished dance

**Hem tape is HUGELY helpful. With all versions of hemming, really. Some prefer a wash-away tape (like THIS), while others like to use a different type of stabilizer (like THIS).

YOU GUYS! We did it! You made it to the end and have finished a new, amazing, custom-fit, piece of clothing. We are so proud of you! If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram. And don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing with us! Come back tomorrow to catch the linkup/contest for your completed Sweetheart or Me Hearties outfit. It’s going to be so amazing to see what you’ve made!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves

March 17, 2016

So. You’ve printed your pattern, figured out your size, and now cut your fabric. What’s next?

Let’s get to sewing! Today is about the top half of your pattern. We are going to stitch your bodice together. And we’ve got a trick to get a lower neckline (if that’s what you’re wanting in your pattern) as well as a sleeveless option for the Me Hearties pattern. Let’s get to it!

There are a ton of options for the bodice part of the Sweetheart/Me Hearties dresses. You can colorblock, do an overlay, choose your sleeve lengths, use FOE (fold over elastic)/trim/t-shirt neckband bindings, etc. Pick your poison when it comes to how you want to style your dress. The sky is the limit!

But let’s say that you wanted a lower neckline than what the pattern calls for. Can we do it? YES WE CAN!

I have a larger than average bust and tend to like a lower neckline on my shirts. Luckily, when you sew for yourself, this is super simple to do. Cut your front bodice piece out and determine where you’d like the neckline to sit.

**Keep in consideration your neckline finishing. For this particular top, I used a standard tshirt binding for the neck. But using FOE or trim will give you a wider neckline opening. So just make your adjustments according to your final vision for your top/dress.

Because we are adjusting the actual size of the opening, we will need to figure out new measurements for the neckband. Once your front and back bodices are pieces are sewn together at the shoulder, fold your piece out flat at the neckline. Without stretching your fabric, lay it flat and measure the opening. Multiply that number by 2. This is your new neckline circumference.

But what is your new neckband/FOE length requirements?
Neckline circumference X .85 + 1″ (for seam allowance) = Neckband/FOE length

Use your new length and finish the neckline however you’d like!

~SLEEVELESS AND OPTIONAL NECKLINE AND ARMHOLE FINISHING METHODS~

The girls Me Hearties does not have a tank option in the pattern but we are going to show you how to hack it… two ways! You can also apply these methods to the Sweetheart if you want a wider sleeveless option as well.

For both methods, you will calculate the bands the same. For consistency and as shown in the pattern, I did the bands in the flat. You can do it in the round if you prefer but will need to adjust your band measurements to include a seam allowance (like the neckband measurement shown above). If using the Trim Method, trim your pattern pieces first, then calculate your armbands.

How to calculate armband measurements: Sew one shoulder seam with 1/2″ seam allowance. Measure the armscye (as shown below) and multiply by .85.

TRIM METHOD: For this method, you will use your existing pattern pieces for the bodice (either the full front and back bodice or the top front and back of the color-block) and trim 1/2″ off each armscye. Proceed with the instructions in your pattern and use your favorite method to finish the neckline and armholes. (FOE, traditional knit binding, or lingerie elastic)

HIDDEN SEAM TURNED FACING ARMBANDS:

(I also used the same method on my neckline. Note: This will lower your neckline by 1/2″)

ay 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL Day 3: Cutting Fabric

March 16, 2016

Welcome back! So far, we’ve learned how to pick the perfect fabrics and get the perfect fit. And today, we are diving right in and cutting into your beautiful fabrics. And we are also going to be sharing TWO new options for the skirt portion. So before you cut, maybe you’ll want to consider these “hacks” as well!

Let’s get started!

The circle skirt is the trickiest part of the pattern to cut. But once you realize how to fold your fabric for cutting, it is actually pretty easy! The pattern includes a full circle skirt and has the option to cut with a pattern piece, or to save on some paper and just cut with a small guide and your own measurement.

I prefer to cut my own circle skirt length, by just using the cut out piece provided. It gives me full control of the length I really want. But it is purely preference in this case. When you are using the cut out, make sure you’re measuring from the end of the circle you’d cut out…and not from the corner of your folded fabric. Otherwise your length will be off by several inches. (Ask me how I know this.)

We wanted to provide a couple of fun alternates for your circle skirts. So before you cut into your fabric, consider these alternatives!

Alternate #1: Full Circle Skirt with Waistband.

You can take the skirt portion of the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns, skip the bodice, and add a waistband. And it’s super easy to do! We are providing you with measurements for a yoga-style waistband…no elastic required.

Alternate #2: High-Low Skirt

Getting a higher cut in the front, and lower dip in the back of a circle skirt is SO EASY. It’s as simple as moving the waist cut-out to a different place on the skirt itself. Three steps and you’ll have a fishtail-esque skirt! (This would also work well with the skirt-only adjustment that we explained above. ^^^)

1.) Open up your skirt so you’re seeing a folded semi-circle. Slide the very top layer until it’s the length that you want for the front of your skirt (be sure to take into account the waist cutout!). Sturdier fabrics are way easier to handle with this process. My skirt above was a slinky rayon blend and it took a lot of patience to get into place. So go slow. Make sure everything is flat and even before you make your cut!

2.) Carefully, fold your skirt in half again, so that it is quartered. You will be back to four layers of fabric, just like when you were originally cutting the circle. Take your waist cut-out piece and cut your opening.

3.) Open up your skirt. You should now see a large circle with a smaller waist circle cut out, somewhere off center. Your high-low skirt is now ready to attach to the bodice!

Is your fabric all prepped, cut and ready for tomorrow’s next step?
Show us your pretty stack of fabrics, just begging to be sewn into something amazing! If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram. And don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us! We are having a blast sewing with you this week!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

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