Patterns for Pirates

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How to Measure Yourself

February 8, 2016

 

 

 

how to measure yourself by patterns for pirates

One of the most important things in sewing for yourself is to get accurate measurements! It is also much harder than it sounds.  I had my sister take a few quick pictures of me measuring so I could explain and give a few tips.

I took my pictures in a tight tank.  I recommend taking your measurements in a thin/tight shirt or even just in the bra you are going to normally wear. (This is especially important if you are going to be making a more formal garment and plan on wearing a different bra for it- think strapless, push up, etc).

I HIGHLY recommend measuring in front of a mirror! This helps you really see where you are measuring and if you are holding it evenly around your body.  It can mean a big difference!

On all measurements breath normally! Most people want to take a big breathe in and then take them— no need! Patterns are drafted with ease to breathe and move normally 🙂 So breathe in and out, then measure. You want to hold the tape snug to your body, but not squeezing.

 

Here are some common measurements needed for a pattern:

Bust— Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust.  You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

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Over Bust– This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

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Under Bust– This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

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High Hip– This is taken around  your hip bones (this is where I like to wear my pants 😉 and most youth patterns are drafted to hit)

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Hip– This is a deceiving name.  It is measured around your fullest/biggest part, which is usually your booty. Most definitely my booty is my biggest part 😉  Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible (a mirror really helps on this one!)

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Waist– This is your natural waistline.  Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants).  It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section.  if you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section.  Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on  your smallest part.

This is your natural waist 🙂

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Side Waist Length– Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist.  This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist like the Sweetheart Dress or Boundless Knit Dress.  Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit.  If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage 😉

You can see here mine is about 8.75″.  For reference the avg is 8″.  I’m 5’10” :).

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*Updated* I had a few more questions about the side waist length.  So I’ve added a couple more pictures— THIS is how much I LOVE my group, I’m willing to put up pictures in my sports bra 4 months after I had a baby!!!! They are cropped very well 😉

Start with your arms DOWN. You want your tape to start where your crease naturally lies— not all the up to your arm.  Think where you’d like your shirt to be (if it’s all the way up as tight as possible then it is uncomfortable and you can’t move your arms around).

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

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Thigh- Taken around thigh close to crotch, keeping the measuring tape flat horizontally around.

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Total Crotch Length- Taken from back center natural waist, under booty, through legs, and up to center front natural waist.  You will want the tape pulled taut.  The easiest way I think is to tape the center back and then pull through front and read at the front.  These are measured with tight, high waisted yoga pants here:

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Inseam- Taken from crotch to where you’d like hem of pants. Notice the close up of my ankle here.  The difference between ankle height (for skinny leg options like Peg Legs and SOS pants) and a floor length is 3″ on me! That’s a big difference!

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Arm length-from armpit to hem of shirt.  Most P4P patterns are meant to hit at the base of thumb, so past the wrist.  It’s just a personal preference of mine– so if you prefer the traditional wrist length here is where you’d want to measure against the finished measurement in the pattern.



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Finished lengths- I will use “inside shoulder to hem” on some shirts and “armpit to hem” on others depending on which is easiest to measure on that particular pattern. Here are both:

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Take your time measuring yourself to ensure great fit! It will make a big difference in how happy you are with the outcome!

Filed Under: Fitting, P4P University 107 Comments

Calling All Sweethearts!

February 3, 2016

P4P is releasing a new pattern.  Well wait, TWO new patterns!  And they’re super sweet.  Pun intended.

 Sweetheartdress1

The Sweetheart Dress + Peplum for women and the Me Hearties Dress + Peplum for girls are releasing today and we are down right excited about it.  Every single tester, no matter the size or age, looks amazing in this style…and you will too.  No joke.

Like all Patterns for Pirates designs, the Sweetheart and Me Hearties patterns are as full of options as they come.  Several skirt lengths, a peplum, multiple sleeve lengths, and a color block option make for an endless amount of choices for your perfect feminine (or girly!) look.

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The silhouette is incredibly flattering on all figures.  Just look at our testers!  The bodice is meant to hit at your true waist (aka: your skinniest point) and the easy-to-attach circle skirt flows perfectly down from it.  Try not to drool while looking at all of these amazing sews!







Just wait until you see the girlies in their Me Hearties!!  All the heart eyes, right?










Make sure to head over to our Facebook Group and check out the tester album there!  There are even more pictures and styles to draw inspiration from while you start to dream up your perfect peplum/dress.

Find the women’s Sweetheart Dress + Peplum HERE
Find the girl’s Me Hearties Dress + Peplum HERE
And best of all…find the Sweetheart/Me Hearties Bundle HERE (and go make a million mommy and me versions!)

We can’t wait to see what you make!

Filed Under: Pattern Release Leave a Comment

The Pumpkin Spice Dolman gets an Update!

January 28, 2016

The first Patterns for Pirates women’s patterns is getting an update.  We are crazy excited and you should be too!

First, we extended the sizing into Plus 1X – Plus 3X, to match with the rest of the women’s patterns in the shop.  But we didn’t stop there!  We wanted to continue the party and added a bottom band AND also added two more sleeve lengths.  So now the PSD is officially as jam packed with options as all the others.

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If you already own the Pumpkin Spice Dolman, you will not need to re-purchase to get the updates.  If you bought here (PatternsforPirates.com) or on the Craftsy store, you will simply need to sign into your account and re-download the file.  If your purchase was via Etsy, email PatternsForPirates@gmail.com (WITH PROOF OF PURCHASE) and you will get an updated file.

Now, let’s talk about the new options:

There is now a short sleeve option with a small banded hem!  It’s adorable with contrasting fabric, or just keeping it simple.  And it has a looser, playful look that is so in style right now.

pumpkinspicedolman sleeve1 pumpkinspicedolman sleeve2Also added was a 3/4 sleeve length.  It just made sense to add it in as a style choice.  And it looks amazing on our testers!

pumpkingspicedolman sleeve3pumpkinspicedolman sleeve4A new hem alternative was added too!  In addition to the curved and straight hems from the original pattern, there is now a chance to add a band to the bottom of your PSD.  The bands come in two different lengths and simply create a different look for this style top.  Sometimes you want a curved/straight simple hem for a more flowy-style shirt…and sometimes you want something that pulls it all back into your body.  Isn’t that the beauty of sewing?  You get exactly the style you want in each item you stitch for yourself!

pumpkinspicedolman band1pumpkinspicedolman band2So what are you waiting for?  Go grab yourself the Pumpkin Spice Dolman pattern and get to sewing!

In case you were wanting some more sewing/styling inspiration and want to see what the testers came up with, be sure to head over to Pumpkin Spice Album in our Facebook group!  There are so many pictures full of different beautiful body types and style and color.  You can’t go wrong by taking a peek.  Basically it’s an arsenal of inspiration!

And remember to PLEASE share with us your sewing accolades!  If you’ve sewn a P4P design, we want to see it!  Tag us #patternsforpirates on Instagram or post it on the Facebook group wall and let us check out your amazing work.  We can’t wait to see what you come up with!

Filed Under: Pattern Release 8 Comments

Button Cuff Hack!

January 26, 2016

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I look to online boutiques and Pinterest for sewing inspirations all the time.  By adding small details to an existing pattern, P4P of course ;), you can transform your favorite finds into your very own me-made version.  During the entire month of January we are running a #PINspiredPIRATES contest. I took on the challenge and added a super cute button cuff to the Slim Fit Raglan.  You can use any of the knit shirt patterns as a base, but chose the Slim Fit Raglan since it was the best to recreate the overall look. (original inspiration pic credit: Three Birds Nest.)

Supplies: 4-6 buttons; knit scraps, small hair ties, fold over elastic, ribbon (whatever you’d like to use for the loops)

button-cuff-hack-cuffsMost of the cuffs included in the patterns are a little shorter than I wanted, so I added 1″ to the length.  Since both ends of the button cuff are finished, I added to the width to account for the seam allowance. Refer to your cut chart in the pattern for measurements, then add 1″ to each. Cut 2.

 

 

 

 

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Cut 6 button loops.  You can choose what you would like to use for your loops.  I went the easy route and cut 1/2″ strips of knit that was the same fabric as my cuffs.  Since knit does not unravel, you can leave the edges raw. I pulled them taught so that it would roll in on itself.  I cut them 2.5″ long but after completion they ended up a little too long for the smaller size button I used.  I wrapped them twice around to keep the cuff closed. I would use 1.75″-2″ depending on your button size.

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Fold cuffs right sides together.

Fold loops in half lengthwise and place them equal distance apart between your cuff layers. Be sure to leave at least 1/2″ from raw edge for your seam allowance when attaching your cuff.  I just kind of eyeballed their placement to be sure they were even.

 

 

 

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Stitch Short ends.  Be sure to catch the raw edges of your loops.

Turn Right side out.

 

 

 

 

 

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Add buttons.  Be sure to attach buttons at opposite ends to create mirror images, otherwise, you will end up with 2 cuffs with tabs in the same direction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Button the cuffs.  Again, be sure to button them so you have mirror images.

Baste open edges together.  I used a zigzag stitch to tack them together.  Do not stitch through all layers or you will sew your cuff shut.  You are only stitching through 2 layers of fabric.

 

 

 

 

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Insert cuff inside sleeve with right sides together. Buttons should be lined up to the folded side of sleeve with button loops pointing to the back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stitch with 1/2″ seam allowance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VOILA!

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Followed this hack?  Or came up with something of your own?  We would love to see it!  Share your latest make in the Patterns for Pirates facebook group, on Instagram (@patternsforpirates) and don’t forget to submit your PINspiredPIRATES entries by January 31st with tag: #PINspiredPIRATES

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks Leave a Comment

Women’s Raglan Nursing Mod

January 19, 2016

womens raglan nursing mod

If you’re a nursing mom, you know that there are not many fashionable and functional tops out there for nursing that are reasonably priced.  After having my little one last year, I quickly realized I wanted  a nursing hoodie.  I usually just wore a camisole and did the pull up method, but with a hoodie or sweater, that’s not quite as easy.   I searched a few sites for inspiration and came up with a mod that works great for the looser relaxed cut tops.  We just so happen to be testing the raglan add on pack at the time, so I used the Women’s Raglan as my base.  This mod works best with thicker, more stable knits like French Terry, jegging (what I used in the tutorial), fleeced back knit, cotton Lycra, Ponte de Roma and so on.  If using a knit with poor recovery, you will want to invest in some clear elastic.

First, you will cut two (2) Front pattern pieces on the FOLD.  One will be your under layer and only needs to be about half the length.  Measure from armpit to a couple inches below your bust.  My example is approximately 9″ from armpit to bottom edge.

UNDER LAYER: Cut a “V” from about  2″ from bottom edge to top.  You can also keep fabric on the fold and cut a diagonal line to create the “V”.  Since knit does not unravel, you can choose to either leave the V and bottom edge raw, or finish the edges with your preferred  method.  You can also add a band at the bottom edge.  I would recommend measuring the width and subtracting a couple of inches.  This will help tighten the under layer and keep it under your bust.  raglan nursing mod under layer

TOP LAYER: Cut a semi-circle from each side. (tip: cutting the curves while the fabric is still on the fold will keep them equal)  My curves start at approximately 4″ from neckline to 7″ from armpit however,  you can adjust the curve to your liking based on your bust size and how deep you would like them.

Fold under curve 1/2″ to the wrong side and finish using a stretch stitch, zig zag or cover stitch.  If your knit is less stable with poor recovery, add clear elastic in the hem for extra stability. raglan nursing top layer

Place top layer wrong side to right side of the under layer.  (my picture shows opposite, as I later decided to use the wrong side of the fabric as the right side of my finished garment.) Baste neckline and side seams.

raglan nursing mod both layers

This is now your new front piece.  Continue construction of the raglan as shown in the tutorial.  Finished product = An awesome nursing friendly hoodie or sweater!  Once you’re done nursing you can go back and topstitch the curves closed and have an added design detail that no one would ever know it was for nursing.

 

Followed this nursing hack?  Or came up with something of your own?  We would love to see it!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group!

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized 3 Comments

NEW Pattern Release :: The Women’s Slim Fit Raglan

January 12, 2016

Hooray!  It’s a Patterns for Pirates release day!
The Slimfit Raglan is exactly what everyone has been begging for.  It is a super quick sew, has a feminine fit and super flattering on all body types.  It is a classic look with trendy and modern options to choose from.
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And like all P4P patterns, it is PACKED full of options!  Includes sleeve options of short, 3/4 hemmed or banded, long hemmed or banded, so you can wear this year round. Has both shirt length (hits at mid-booty) and tunic length (hitting below booty–perfect to wear with leggings) so you can pair with all kinds of bottoms perfectly. Both lengths have a hemmed or banded option. Also includes a curved hem option.

This raglan also fits with our Raglan Add On Pack and combined can give you endless options!

Here’s a handful of photos from our AMAZING testers.  If you want to see more (and to learn what size, options and fabric they used) head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group!











The Slimfit Raglan is on sale through the end of the week and also comes with the option to bundle it with the Add-On pack.  Can’t wait to see what you make!  Don’t forget to share it in the P4P Facebook group with us!

Filed Under: Pattern Release 3 Comments

How to use the new Layers feature

January 9, 2016

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Patterns for Pirates has added a brand new feature to their newest upcoming patterns! The Layers Feature! This means you can choose to print one size, a couple, or all of them if you’d like.  They will still be the “No Trim” style.

Here is a few screenshots to help you use the new feature.

As always, you will need to open and print your PDF from Adobe PDF Reader (a free download if you don’t have it yet).

This is what your screen should look like viewing the PDF pattern pieces:

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (3)

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (1)

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (2)

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (4)

Now you can print just the sizes you need and save some ink and time tracing off your size! 🙂

As requested, here is our on-going list of patterns that have the layers feature (These are also the patterns that include the A0 Copy Shop File Size):

Freebies:

  • Pirate Pencil Skirt
  • Peg Legs
  • Peg Legs- Add Ons
  • Peg Legs- Maternity Add On
  • Tulip Tee
  • Tiny Tulip- Youth
  • Wee Lap Tee
  • Petite Pegs
  • Teeny Beanie
  • Walk the Plank- Adult
  • Walk the Plank- Youth

Youth:

  • Jolly Roger Raglan
  • Jolly Roger Add-On Pack
  • Sugar Pie Dolman
  • Spice Cake Dolman
  • Me Hearties Dress + Peplum
  • Yo Ho Henley
  • Tiny Timeless
  • Baby Bear Joggers
  • Fav Tee
  • Butterfly Cardigan
  • Heart Breaker Cami
  • Little Loungers
  • Sweet Bow Dress
  • SOS Knit Pants- Youth
  • So Classic Sundress- Youth
  • Go To Jacket- Youth
  • Cpt. Mack’s Cardigan

Womens

  • Slim Fit Raglan
  • Relaxed Raglan
  • Raglan Add-On Pack – for women
  • Sweet Tee Dolman
  • Pumpkin Spice Dolman
  • Sweetheart Dress + Peplum
  • Siren Swim Top
  • Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms
  • Layer Me Up Shirt
  • Women’s Henley
  • Essential Tank
  • Sunshine Dress
  • Free Spirit Tank
  • Women’s Henley
  • Timeless Tunic
  • Mama Bear Joggers
  • Carefree Cardigan
  • Granpda Cardigan
  • Summer Kimono
  • Cocoon Cardigan
  • Cross my Heart Cami
  • Favortie Tee
  • Linen Loungers
  • SOS Knit Pants
  • So Classic Sundress
  • Go To Jacket- Womens
  • Ragdoll Raglan

Mens:

  • Go To Jacket- Mens
  • Papa Bear Joggers
  • Men’s Henley

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions 64 Comments

#PINspiredPIRATES :: A Monthly Sewing Contest!

January 6, 2016

Wahoo!  Patterns for Pirates is officially launching a new social media contest!

Now that you’re in the addicting world of self-care sewing, you realize how easy it is to be inspired (or “pin”spired, rather) by things you see all over the internet.  Or even in the store as you’re browsing.  I cannot tell you how many times I’ve inspected a shirt in a store (or even taken a quick picture of it), just so I could go home and recreate it myself.

The girls at Patterns for Pirates are here to enable your self-care sewing habits even more!

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It’s easy to enter, too!

Step 1: Sew something, using a P4P pattern of course, that you’ve drawn inspiration from.  Inspiration can come from anywhere…a pin on Pinterest, something in a boutique shop, a shirt you saw at Target, a stranger passing by, etc.
Step 2: Take a picture of yourself rocking it.
Step 3: Post it on Instagram, using the tag: #PinspiredPirates  Be sure to tell us which P4P pattern you used and the thing you were inspired by!  (Don’t have an IG account?  Go ahead and share it on P4P’s Facebook group, still using #PinspiredPirates and we will count that as an entry as well.)
Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 as many times as possible, just because you can!

At the end of the month, a winner will be chosen!  Not only will said winner be featured on this blog, BUT they will also be awarded a P4P pattern of their choice!

How about that?  Easy, fun, inspired and fun.  (Did I say fun already?)
Happy sewing!  Can’t wait to see what you make!

Filed Under: Contest/Giveaway 6 Comments

Carefree with added Button

December 22, 2015

I’ve seen a lot of draped front cardigans with the big wooden buttons on Pinterest and in the Boutiques…and of course I thought, “I can do that!” So the Carefree Cardigan Big Button Modification was born!

carefree cardigan add big button tutorial

The Carefree Cardigan is perfect for the look.

carefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorial

I choose the neckband only option, cuffed long sleeve, and choose to leave the front and bottom raw.

I’ve been making a ton of Carefrees after Baby Girl made her arrival… it is such a nice baby wearing cardigan that I feel cute in and can wrap us both up in when it’s windy or cold.  I can also use it nursing her so easily without worrying about bringing another cover or getting anything on or ready when she’s ready to nurse! So, I thought I’d make TWO buttonhole placements… one for normal wear that just pulls the cardigan closed at the neckline… and a second for when I’m wearing Baby Girl and need the neckline open much more.

carefree-cardigan-button2carefree-cardigan-button1I sewed up my entire cardigan exactly as normal. Then tried it on both with Baby Girl on me and without and marked where I would like the cardigan to close.  Of course, Little Guy had to come photobomb a few shots ;).

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I placed my button down a bit away from my neck, because I happen to be one of those people who can’t stand anything tight up against their neck (you will never see a turtle neck from this designer ;)).

carefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorial

So now I needed to create the buttonholes, which is a bit different then usual because I wanted the GIANT buttons that are so popular right now and my sewing machine can’t fit a button near that big on my automatic buttonhole foot.  SOOOO, I made my own buttonhole with 2 different size zigzag stitches.

First I marked my button placement and how big I need the buttonhole to be.

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Then I sewed a very narrow rectangle that would be my buttonhole.  I turned my zigzag length down very low to 1, so that it was a tight stitch.

For the top and bottom of my rectangle I used a wide 5 zigzag and for the sides I used a narrow 2.  I simple freehanded it.

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I used matching navy thread, so I knew if it wasn’t exactly perfect that no one would be able to see.  Actually, the thread matched so close it was REALLY difficult to get a picture of the buttonhole!

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Then I used my seam ripper to very carefully rip a line inside the narrow rectangle/buttonhole.

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I created a second buttonhole for my baby wearing, looser option.

Wa-lah! Now I have a great on trend cardigan that was quick and easy that I can button up with or without Baby Girl! 🙂

carefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorialcarefree cardigan patterns for pirates drape front cardigan tutorial

 

 

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks 7 Comments

Raglan Colorblock Tutorial (Guest Post)

December 15, 2015

Today’s post is a fun one!
We are giving you all a special guest post from a Patterns for Pirates fan, who sewed up this adorable colorblocked version of the Women’s Raglan.  Ashley posted this on the P4P facebook group and we couldn’t help but want her to share it on here.

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Ashley’s tutorial is specifically for the women’s raglan, to achieve the look that she has masterfully come up with.  BUT, you can take information from this and colorblock anything with these techniques!  (For instance, P4P’s Katy shows you how to do a curved colorblock with the women’s henley on her blog HERE.)

Without further ado, take it away Ashley!

Front Colorblock

a. Start with the Front of the Raglan Pattern. Mine is cut for the Small size. I then take a sheet of wax pattern and unroll it until it’s just about the size of the pattern piece. Trace the existing pattern onto the wax paper and decide what length and neckline you would like. In this example, you’ll see the curved hem and a modified V Neck (see step 2 for instructions on doing the V-­‐Neck prior to going onto step b).

b. From the end of the arm hole measure 2.5 inches Draw a line straight across the pattern piece (shown as the green line in Figure 1). . Then measure ¼ of an inch down from that line and draw another line. ( Shown as the blue line on Figure 1. Here you are adding on ¼ seam allowance for when you add your stripe pieces).

c. Cut on the pattern on the 2 ¾ line (blue). Continue with cutting the rest of the pattern. Make sure you make all of the original marks like fold lines and notches so that you can line up the pattern correctly. I also label what each piece is so that I don’t get confused later on. d. FT = Front Top, FB= Front bottom.

V-­‐Neck adjustment

a. I personally don’t like a deep V-­‐neck. So what I did on the Front is where the flat part (small pink line) is on the top of the pattern, where the front scoop (green line) and the armhole meet, I extended it to the left, approximately 1/4inch. I then eye balled it where I wanted the V to end on the middle front of the shirt and drew a diagonal line from that point to beginning of the new flat part (long pink line).

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

Sleeve alterations

a. Start by taking the sleeve piece and unroll two pieces of wax paper. You’ll have to tape them together in order for it to be wide enough.

b. Trace the outline of the existing sleeve.

c. Measure 2.5 inches down from the left shoulder seam that will eventually meet the front seam ( green line). In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dots line on the original pattern.

d. Measure ¼ inch from the green line and draw a straight line across the pattern (blue line). Again here we are just adding a seam allowance. In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dot dash on the original pattern.

e. RT= Right Top

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

f. I then used the existing solid red short sleeve line for where I wanted my stripe to end. I drew a line across there (green) and also ¼ of an inch down from there (blue). The middle piece with the seam allowances added is equal to 2.5 inches wide, which when sewn, will give you an ending piece of 2 inches.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

g. Now that we have the top and bottom sections of the arm we need to do the middle part with the stripe. What I did to make things easier was draw lines across in the middle of the middle sections and shaded it in so that I could see how wide the stripe was going to end up being on the finished product. (See photo)

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

h. After I was happy with it I cut the pattern on the GREEN line of the RT and the BLUE line of the RB. Now here’s the tricky part. If you were to just cut out that piece you would end up with a middle piece that’s too small and therefore our sleeve length will be short. I took the RM in the wax paper and taped it onto two pieces of computer paper. I then measured ¼ inch on the top and ¼ inch from the bottom. I extended the lines out in order to make the total width of the RM 2.5 inches.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

i. For the stripe in the middle of RM I measured the shaded in part of it and then traced the measurements onto a piece of computer paper so that I had a hard copy and not just the wax paper.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

Cutting

a. Whew! The hard part is over. Now would be a good time to eat a donut or whatever your favorite snack is because you just made it through the hardest part of the hack (in my opinion.)

b. Now that you have all of your pieces you need to decide what color you want the top and bottom parts of the front. In my example the top is plaid and the bottom is black. I then took all the parts for plaid, FT, RT, RB, & stripe and made those into a pile. Then FB, RM, and Back in another pile for black.

c. When you lay out your pattern pieces make sure that if it needs to be on a fold, like the FT, FB, or back that you put it on a fold. For all of the sleeve pieces I just doubled up my fabric so that I end up with a Right and a Left once cut instead of mirroring (too much work).

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

d. I added about 1.5 inches to the bottom of RB also so that I could hem the sleeves. You do not need to add as much as I do it’s your preference. You can do anywhere from .5 inch to 1.5 here because we aren’t attaching cuffs.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

e. The only thing you need to remember with cutting FB is that you need to measure up ¼ inch in order to account for the seam allowance when you sew them together. All of my seam allowances are ¼ inch until you sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Those you would do your normal ½ inch.

f. You also want to cut out your RM pieces. Those do not require a fold.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

g. Once you have everything cut out, keep the pattern pieces for the sleeves pinned so that it’s easier to put all the left and right pieces together.

Sewing machine/Serger time!!!

a. Time to put this shirt together. The first thing I always do is my hems, so that they are out of the way. You can do them however you want but I find it easiest to iron first, then use hem tape, and finish with a straight top stitch. I avoid zigzag stitches at all costs just because that’s the easiest way for me to tell between a store bought and homemade shirt. Personal preference only.

b. Now that the shirt hems and sleeve hems are finished let’s start with the easier pieces. Take TF and BF with right sides together and sew at the seam. Always remember rights to rights.

c. I serge everything when it comes to apparel so when that is finished I press the seam and top stitch so that it lays nicely when you wear it. This is optional.

d. Now it’s time to do the sleeves. I took a strip of Heat N’ Bond Lite (or Wonder Under) and with the wrong side of the stripe on the sticky side, iron on the Heat N’ Bond. Let cool and then peel off paper backing. Then line up in the middle of MR and press to adhere to MR. Top stitch or zigzag around edges in order to secure (optional).

e. Line up TR bottom edge with MR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch

f. Line up MR bottom and BR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch. Repeat with Left sleeve pieces.

You are in the home stretch.
Now all that’s left is to follow the same steps you would take with any other raglan. Attach the sleeves to the front and back panels and then sew sleeve seams and side seams.

The VNeck I treated similar to any other neckband except I didn’t start with a loop nor did I measure it out beforehand. I just cut a strip about 1.5 inches wide, folded in half, and press, then starting at the V in the front attach like you would binding on a quilt or other necklines.

I hope everyone enjoys this new colorblock design and if anyone has any questions I’d be happy to help out or explain something!

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.dMicrosoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

***Next time I think I’ll just make the MR and Stripe one piece similar to the elbow patch instead of spending so much time sewing each piece of the sleeve together and topstitching. That way you could cut full sleeve pieces and then attach the MR/ML with Heat N’Bond and zigzag stitch down.

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