diy Archives - Patterns for Pirates

New Pattern Releases :: XFactor Crop + Dress!

July 29, 2020

We’re so eXcited! Why? Because the newest pattern from P4P just dropped today and it’s eXcellent! The XFactor Crop + Dress, for us Pirates, is one of those “x marks the spot” kind of deals. We are just in love with it and think you will be too. For both of these patterns, the youth sizes range from 3m – 14. And the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X! If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

The X Factor Crop & Dress is an adorable pattern that gives you drastically different garments depending on the options you choose. You can create a cute, trendy workout crop or rash gaurd. Or you make a fit and flare dress that is comfortable and flattering.

Options include: crop / dress length, vneck / crew neck, short / three-quarter / long (hemmed or cuffed) sleeves, or tank top.

Also enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial, including a complete sew-up of the pattern.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

CROP + DRESS LENGTH

CREW + V NECKLINE

SLEEVE LENGTH OPTIONS

What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of this eXtra fun new pattern! The Xfactor patterns are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, August 4, 2020.

XFACTOR CROP + DRESS | XFACTOR CROP + DRESS – YOUTH | XFACTOR CROP + DRESS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images! Adult Album / Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our XFactor Easy Hacks post.

New Pattern Releases :: Sunflower Swim Top + Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!

June 27, 2020

To help your summer go swimmingly well (ba-dum-ching!) we are bringing you a brand new set of swimwear tops and bottoms! And we couldn’t be more excited about sharing them with you all. In both adult and youth sizes, we are happy to introduce you to the Sunflower Swim Top and the Busy Bee Swim Bottoms! For both of these patterns, the youth sizes range from 3m – 14. And the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X! If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

Okay, now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s start first by telling you all about the Sunflower Swim Top, shall we?

The Sunflower Swim Top is a great beginner swim top to try out if you’re wanting to start sewing swim for adults! The open back is very forgiving in fit since you can tie it a bit tighter or looser to get your perfect preferred fit. You can pick your bust coverage with a higher straight neckline or the lower scoop neckline. The full back is a very quick and easy sew that you can sew up for a simple and quick top. The flattering fit ends right at your smallest point to show off your natural waistline. But if you want a little more coverage you can add the optional ruffle. The top is fully lined and has the optional shelf bra. You can also add innerlining and removable cups to the shelf bra for even more support.

Options include: high straight neckline, scoop neckline, full back, open back, shelf bra, removable cups, and ruffle.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like complete sew ups of 2 different tops which cover all the options.

SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – YOUTH | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – BUNDLE

The Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will have your swimsuit drawer full in no time with a variety of looks! You can mix and match with your tops easily, depending on your mood or where and who you’re going swimming with! In case you’re feeling like you want more coverage, you can grab the high rise and brief options. But in the event that you’re feeling like baring it all for less obtrusive tan lanes…go for the cheeky and low rise. Or you can pick between those two with a mid-rise, which hits just below the belly button. Mix in some ruching at the side seams for a fun detail. These bottoms are very simple and quick to make with the waistline and leglines hemmed under with swim elastic. You can also choose to partially line or fully line.

Options include: low rise, mid rise, high rise, cheeky booty cutline (adult only), brief booty cutline, ruched side seams, partially lined or fully lined.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like adding/removing length, complete sew ups of ruched, plain, partially and fully lined bottoms.

BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – YOUTH | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – BUNDLE

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

SUNFLOWER BACK FINISHES

SUNFLOWER TOP HEMS

SUNFLOWER NECKLINES

BUSY BEE RISES

BUSY BEE LEG LINES (ADULT ONLY)

What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of these swim separates! The Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will be on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 5, 2020.

Don’t see the perfect bundle for the patterns you’d like to buy? Don’t forget you can always make your own bundle!

SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – YOUTH | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – BUNDLE
BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – YOUTH | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sunflower Swim Album | Busy Bee Swim Album | Sunflower Swim Youth Album | Busy Bee Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Sunflower Swim Top Easy Hacks Blog Post!

2019 Holiday Freebies :: Ugly Sweater Party DIYs

December 3, 2019

Woohoo! We’ve made it to the fourth day of the 2019 Holiday Freebies! I’ve been having a blast sharing with you all week!

Today’s freebie is a little different than the rest, but so. stinking. fun. This time of year is constantly filled with invites to “Ugly Sweater parties”. I thought it might be fun to give you some DIY ideas to make something to wear to them!

There are three things we are going to make today, and you’ll need pattern pieces for all of them.

Grab your “UGLY SWEATER PARTY DIYs” pattern pieces here!

TREE CIRCLE SKIRT

When I created this, I was picturing turning myself into a Christmas tree – but doing it in a semi-cute way. This pattern is three circle skirts layered on top of each other, completely hemmed in a white pom pom trim. Sweet. Simple. A little on the tacky side still. But totally holiday party worthy.

Check the size chart before sewing to know which skirt size you need to make!

Fabric Requirements in yards (based upon 54″ knit fabrics):

To get a full circle skirt, we will be cutting three layers of skirts on the double fold, using the cutout piece.

1. Place the cutout piece in between both of folds. Measure the distance from bottom of the cutout piece. First for 12″, then for 16″ and then another circle at 20″.

2. Cut out the middle circle along the pattern piece.

3. If desired, add your trim / hem each layer of the skirt pieces.

4. Meeting the short ends together, fold the waistband piece right sides together.

5. Now meeting the long ends together, fold the waistband piece a second time. You’ll have a fold along one of the sides and the bottom.

6. Sew along raw, short edge. And then flip to right sides out.

7. Mark the quarter points on your waistband piece.

8. With all three layers of the skirt aligned at the waist opening, mark the quarter points of the skirt as well.

9. Aligning all raw edges and quarter points, sew through all 5 layers of fabric, attaching the waistband to the three layers of the skirt. Flip up the waistband and wear your new tree inspired skirt!

ELF COLLAR

You can use this on pretty much any tshirt pattern you might already own. While my tutorial is using the Boho Babydoll, it can be used on most adult and youth patterns and sizes. You can be your very own Elf on the Shelf, in case that’s been your lifelong dream!

1. Keeping the collar piece folded, lay one of the pieces out in front of you.

2. Place the back bodice pattern piecs on top, aligning the shoulder point and fold.

3. Cut the neckline into the collar piece. And repeat with the other collar piece, this time using the front bodice pattern piece.

4. Place one collar piece on surface, with right side facing toward you.

5. With right sides together, place other collar piece on top. Sew, using same seam allowance as the pattern you are attaching it to. (In my case, it is 1/2″.)

6. Sew shoulder seams of your tee pattern.

7. Open up and lay flat on surface, with the wrong side facing up.

8. Place collar on top with wrong sides facing up, aligning raw edges. Sew along entire neck opening, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

9. Flip collar through, turning right sides out. Top stitch along entire opening, if desired. Assemble the remainder of your top pattern.

SNOWMAN APPLIQUE

Frosty and you might be BFFs and you need to put his face on a tee. I’m the last person to judge, trust me. This applique is super easy to attach, and I would highly recommend doing so *before* sewing up your entire top…it might be easier for you to add all of the facial features on a front bodice piece, rather than the entire shirt.

1. For the top hat, use the guidelines to clip into the seam allowance in the corners.

2. Press, wrong sides together, 1/2″ seam allowance, allowing all raw edges to be folded under.

3. Repeat with Nose piece.

4. Pin and applique / zig zag stitch along entire outer edges of top hat and nose. Add button eyes and mouth. Finish assembling your top pattern, as directed.

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us. Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulously dorky and “ugly” things that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern! Happy Holidays, friends!

50K Fan Celebration :: Stirrup Pant PegLegs Hack

April 22, 2017

Written by Kelly Bailey (P4P Blog Contributor)

For this tutorial I will be showing you how to take the updated Patterns for Pirates Peg Leg pattern and hack it into a pair of leggings featuring the stylish yoga stirrups! Have you seen these store purchased versions in your gym classes, or maybe on Pinterest, or maybe you’ve been looking for a comfortable pattern for stirrup leggings to compliment a casual outfit? This simple hack is both comfortable and durable. Follow along with this tutorial and please share your results in the P4P sewing group!

Step One: Fabric

My first, and most important, advice is to choose your fabric wisely. This pattern is intended for 4-way stretch knit with at least 50% stretch. See Peg Leg 101 to review the way the fabric contents and stretch will affect your results. Not all knits are meant for leggings due to the degree of stretch this pattern requires. For all 3 of my versions I have used a brushed polyester spandex knit with varying weights. Athletic knits, such as supplex or heavy weight brushed poly, are the best option if you intent to vigorously work out in your finished garment.

Step Two: Stirrup Pattern Piece

Print out and assemble your Peg Leg pattern as normal, being sure to add or take away height as necessary for you. See Peg Leg 101 for more information on how, where and when this is necessary. The Peg Leg pattern is drafted for an average height of 5’5” and an inseam of 28”. This hack can be applied to both the “plain” version and the “color-blocked” versions. Beware that once you’ve sewn this up you will not be able to simply trim off length at the very end of construction as you would with the standard pattern. So be sure to make a traditional pair and know these height adjustments before attempting this hack.

Next cut out a paper rectangle measuring 7.5” x 4”. The 4” height fits my size 9 foot perfectly but you may need to add or remove a little bit to that measurement depending on your shoe size.

Step Three: Modifying the Peg Leg Pattern

If you’re modifying the “plain” version tape your rectangle to the ankle of your peg pattern as shown. Be sure to pay attention to the side you’re attaching the rectangle to. You want to line the edge of the stirrup rectangle with the FRONT side of the leg piece.

If your modifying one of the “color-blocked” versions line up and attach your stirrup rectangle with the edge of the FRONT pattern piece as pictured.

NOTE: You can switch up the top and middle color-block panel pieces and the pattern will still go together without issue if you are not attaching the pocket. If you do attach the pocket still, it would just sit lower on your leg. My charcoal and hot pink pair show what this swap looks like. My navy and seaglass version show the color-block panel assembly as instructed in the original pattern. I also chose to give a faux flatlock look to my pink version. Follow Alex’s decorative top stitching blog to get this look yourself!

Step Four: Cut Out Your Pieces & Assemble Color-block

Use your modified pattern to cut from your fabric all legging pieces. Add to this the addition of two 1.25” x width of ankle strips with the greatest stretch going with the longer length. Theses will be the bands that stretch around the heel of your foot. The width measurement will leave extra that will get trimmed off after attachment. For a size small I cut a 8″x 1.25″ sized heel band.

For the “plain version” make a cut in each leg piece, as shown in the image below, just to the center width of the leg. This is where you will attach the heel band.

For the “color-blocked” version you are going to sew together all color-block pieces as normal, creating two full leg pieces. You will need to pivot the seam 90 degrees to attach the stirrup to the ankle at the front of the leg. Be sure to only sew the stirrup to the halfway mark along the ankle (mid color-block). Leave the rest unattached so that you can sew the heel band in place.

Step Five: Sew Crotch Seams

Lay your fully assembled leg pieces right sides together on top of one another. Sew your crotch curves together.

Step Six: Attach Heel Bands

Press your heel bands wrong sides together lengthwise and then pin along the unfinished slit along ankle edge. Sew in place being sure to use a stretch stitch but not to stretch either the band or the leg piece.

Step Seven: Pin Inseam in Place

Start by pinning your crotch seams right sides together then go to the stirrup piece and start lining up inseams there. Work your way up the leg making sure to overlap the bands as shown in the photo below. Sew inseam together using stretch stitch. Trim off excess heel band.

Step Eight: Finishes

At this point you can attach your waistband using the directions in the patterns tutorial and then hem the bottom of the stirrups using a stretch stitch and your preferred hem width. Press.

All Done!

Try them on and enjoy. Keep your feet cozy whether in yoga class or sewing your next garment at home!

We are celebrating reaching 50K fans in our Facebook group! To make it a party, our beloved PegLegs pattern just got an update AND some new add-ons. Before you go running to your machine to sew up your own leggings, make sure to read our PegLegs 101 blog post. This way, you’ll have all the the information you’ll need to make the perfect pair before you even cut into your gorgeous fabric.

But wait, there’s more! After any good party is an after-party. We are taking it one step further and sharing some easy hacks that’ll bring even more flavor to your favorite leggings pattern! We hope you check them out, make your new favorite pair of leggings, and know that we appreciate every single one of you amazing sewing guys and gals!

Here are our hacks / tutorials / latest tricks:

Lace Waistband Alternative | Drawstring Waistband Tutorial
Exposed Elastic Waistband | Stirrup Pant Hack
Ruched Ankles Adjustment | Decorative Topstitching Tutorial
Ruched Side Panel Hack

Cross My Heart Cami Hacks

March 14, 2017

So you love the X option but you also love the T option of the Cross My Heart Cami and now you’re in a pickle…which one do I make? The answer is obvious, you make both! And if you’re anything like I am, you make both style in one cami! 🙂

The beauty of the CMHC pattern is that you don’t even need to make any modifications to achieve this look. Simply cut two pieces of the front pattern and follow the directions for adding the T and the X details to the pieces. Finish the cami as per the tutorial and voila! You made yourself a brand new cami that can be worn both way. You can wear the X in the front and the T in the back like I did or you can wear the T in the front.

I paired this cami with a Pirate Pencil Skirt and a Sweet Tee with curved hem and an off the shoulder mod. Which styles will you be making first?

Judy made this one with two backs! Such a simple mode that can add so many more options to this pattern!

The V front and low x makes a sizzler! I mean, who doesn’t love to have that piece of clothing that you can pull out, slip on feel a little sexy every once in a while?

Are you looking for a more delicate, feminine feel? Grab some stretch lace for an easy hack!

Here’s a simple how-to:

1. Cut the lace the same length as your binding pieces, for whichever neckline you are using.

2. After you’ve attached and folded over the binding as directed in the tutorial, pin the right side of the lace to the wrong side of the neckline/binding. In the picture below, the fabric is right side up.

3. Repeat for the back as well, if you’d like. Then, sew it on as you top-stitch the binding, per the pattern tutorial. Here’s how it should look all said and done; wrong side up shown on the bottom of the picture, right side up shown at the top.

4. Be sure to catch the edge of the lace on the side of the shoulder binding as you attach it.

5. Finish the shirt as the pattern tutorial directs. That’s it – easy peasy!

~ Elisabeth

Not sure what to do with all those pretty lace appliques? Attach one to the front or back of the cami. I happened to up-cycle one from an old shirt that didn’t fit anymore and have some knit on hand that matched perfectly! I used to V back because of the shape of the applique. I left the front neckline raw and stitched the lace just overlapping the top edge using a zigzag stitch. (Knit does not unravel so no need to finish those edges). Attach to the right side of the cami prior to doing the shoulder binding if your applique extends to the armholes. For the main body of the applique, I chose to tack down in a few areas (center of the flowers) as the applique itself was pretty open throughout. Easy Peasy!

P4P Cardi Week :: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

January 24, 2017

So you’ve been perusing Pinterest and you see all of those must have, trendy fringe cardigans. Now you’re looking at your library of sewing patterns and wondering which one can you easily hack into one of those gorgeous cardigans for yourself? Well here is a tutorial to show you how to easily transform the Patterns for Pirates Carefree Cardigan into a DIY fringe cardigan! Follow along to find out how easy this look is to achieve. At the end I have added the option to attach a button closure too!

First things first, which fabric should you use? My favorite knit fabrics to use for this purpose are knit fleece, closed weave brushed hacci sweater knit or a light-medium weight poly rayon spandex french terry. That said, you could do this with pretty much any knit. Be careful of really loose weave sweater knits though (the ones you can see through). They may fall apart on you during the fringe creation.

Step 1: Whatever you do, DON’T SKIP THIS. Before you make your fabric selection and begin cutting out your garment pieces, test out how the fabric is going to look once fringed. To do this make a few ½” wide by 6” deep cuts perpendicular to the selvedge edge. Tie a couple of these strips into a knot together just as it will be done on the finished cardigan. Some knits will stay structured; some will come close to falling apart. It is important to test the fabric to determine if your chosen fabric is going to give you a desired look.

Step 2: Cut out all pieces of your Carefree Cardigan for a ‘neckband only’ version, except for the neckband. For the neckband you are going to cut out a band half the cut chart width plus a seam allowance of 1/2″ for hemming.

Step 3: Assemble your cardigan as directed by the Carefree Cardigan pattern tutorial with the exception of the neckband. You are attaching the neckband without folding it in half to form a closed band. You want an open raw edged band.

Step 4: Using your sewing or coverstitch machine, you will then hem the long exposed edge of the neckband and along the bottom hem. Use a 1/2”” hem width here. You want it thin so that it doesn’t become bulky when you create the fringe. Lastly, hem the sleeves as directed by the pattern.

Step 5: Lay your cardigan out on your cutting mat, lining up the unfinished edge along a straight measurement line on your mat. Decide how wide you would like your fringe to be. Take your scissors and cut strips about 6” deep along the entire length of your cardigan front, every ½-1”. I chose to cut ½” strips. Go back and seam rip the hems on the bottom and top strips that you have now cut into fringe strips. You may want to add some reinforcement stiching to the hem stitches at the beginning and end just before it turns into fringe.

Step 6: The last step is to finish the fringe edge. This is done by tying the base of the strips into knots all down the front. Decide how many strips you would like to be knotted together to create some separation. I chose to knot 2 strips together down the entire length of my cardigan.

If you choose not to add a button closure you are now all finished!

OPTIONAL Button Closure

Step 7: Following Judy’s lead in her Carefree Cardigan Button blog tutorial, I chose to add a button to mine to finish off the look. To do this I put on my cardigan and played with different variations of button placement; to decide how I wanted the cardigan to be styled. I settled on adding a 1” shoulder button.

[center button placement]

[shoulder button placement]

Step 8: Once you have decided on placement, mark it. A lot of the time I like to use dry erase crayons to mark placement. The mark is easily visible on any fabric and it stays put until you throw your garment in the wash. Mark the button location both on the overlapping bodice front and the under lapping bodice front.

[dry erase crayon]

Step 9: Use your sewing machine to create a buttonhole on the overlapping bodice front in the top corner. If you are using an oversized button or do not have an automatic buttonhole presser foot for your machine see Judy Hale’s post HERE. Carefully cut open the buttonhole with your seam ripper.

[automatic buttonhole presser foot]

Step 10: Now attach your button with your sewing machine or by hand on the under lapping bodice shoulder where you have placed a marking. Try it on and adjust button placement if necessary.

All done!

Keep your eyes peeled for some other fun tutorials the ladies at Patterns for Pirates have prepared for you this week! Be sure to read all the way through the end of this post to find out about the contest we have running this week!

-Kelly Bailey

P4P Blog Contributor

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems and Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

You can follow along on the blog here, or in our Facebook group. Search #P4PCardiWeek to be able to find our posts all over social media. And please feel free to sew-along with us on one or all of the days. The more the merrier!

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

Between tomorrow and Saturday, January 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates cardigan using one of our hacks, or by keeping the pattern as-is. Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag #P4PCardiWeek. We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog. Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

Blanket Scarf

December 16, 2016

Have you been following our 2016 Holiday Freebies? You can see our Free Adult Mittens HERE and our Free Adult Slouchie Beanie HERE! Today I’m here to show you how to make a Blanket Scarf!

Blanket scarfs are a great, easy item you can whip up for yourself or others during those colder months!

You can pair them with a top or dress for a touch of color and finish off your outfit with the perfect trendy touch.

You’ll need:

Flannel- 1.5-2 yards

Scissors

Optional: Sewing Machine and matching thread

You’ll want your scarf anywhere from 1.5-2 yards long. A few factors that you can consider when deciding on the length are how tall are you? The more petite you are the less you’ll need. How thick is your flannel? The thicker the fabric the less you’ll need.

I cut mine into a square. Since my flannel was about 56″ wide. I squared it up at 55″ x 55″. You don’t have to have a perfect square either, if your fabric is thinner or you’re taller you might want to keep the width and make your length a bit longer (up to about 2 yards).

You can finish the edges anyway you’d like. You can leave them raw (they will fray with wear and washing).

You can stitch around the edge with a finishing stitch of your choice. (zigzag, overlock, ect.) Pictured here with a zigzag, which will still fray up to the stitch if you’re not right on the edge.

You can do a narrow hem, folding 1/4″ and another 1/4″ enclosing the raw edge for a cleaner finish.

You can also stitch around the inside where you’d like the fray to stop. You can fray the edges up to the stitch line by pulling the cross grain threads up to the stitch line.

Now you’re ready to style it!

***I’m sorry, but my camera man (aka my husband) wasn’t very interested in all the different ways you could style a blanket scarf, and he often cuts my head off! You will also hear my kiddos (you can even catch Little Guy being super naughty…) in the background. But, hopefully they are helpful still 🙂

You can wear it bandera style by folding it in half at a 45 degree angle creating a large triangle, then wrapping it around the back of your neck and tucking tails under.

You can wear it shawl style.

You can wear it like a traditional scarf wrapped about your neck.

You can to the tie front, wrapping it back around your neck and tying in the front.

You can wear it like an infinity scarf.

Drape it over your shoulders. You can wear a belt over to hold it in place as well.

You can fold in half lengthwise wrap around back of neck and pull ends through the fold.

You can wear it over your head and wrap one end around to the back.

You can wrap around the back and criss cross through the front.

Still with me? 😉 Don’t miss our other 2016 Holiday Freebies here:

Free Fleece Mittens

and

Free Slouchy Beanie

They all pair perfectly together for some great cozy finishing touches!

Easy Bear Jogger Hacks

November 11, 2016

The Mama Bear Joggers were just released and are packed with options. I have already made myself a few pairs so I was browsing Pinterest for styling ideas (don’t we all?). I came across a cute pair of joggers that had a tuxedo stripe on the side so I just had to make myself a pair like that. In today’s blog I’ll show you how I did the tuxedo stripe and an accent slat pocket band.

Start by printing and cutting the pattern in your size. (I grade mine in for the waist that’s why you’ll see two lines instead of one). Don’t cut the fabric just yet. If you’d like to do just the accent pocket band you’ll nee to place the pocket lining over your front piece and remove 1 inch from the curve. That can be done easily if using a French Curve.

Now take your measuring tape and measure the new pocket opening. You will be cutting your accent band to be 2″ by 95% of the opening.

Fold the band wrong sides together and give it a good press. Sandwich the folded band between the right side of the front of the pants and the right side of the pocket lining. You will be stretching JUST the band slightly. Sew the 4 layers together.

Turn the pocket over so its wrong side is on the wrong side of the front leg. You can now top stitch along the curve. Tadah! You’ve added a decorative band to the slat pocket. If you do not add the side strip proceed with sewing the joggers according to the pattern tutorial.

If you add the stripe, we will be making some pattern alteration prior to cutting the fabric. Place your pocket lining and back on top of the front of the pants matching the top and side lines. We will be removing 1.5 inches from the side of the front of the pants. Following the side curve draw a line parallel to the side, 1.5″ away.

Cut along the new line. Now grab the back of your pants and repeat the process on the side. You now have 4 new pattern pieces, front and back, pocket and pocket lining. We will measure the new side length with a measuring tape because it’s flexible. The tuxedo stripe will be 3″ by the new measured side. See? That wasn’t so bad.

Add the pocket according to the tutorial. We will now sew RST the front piece with one side of the strip. Then attach the other side of the strip to the back of the leg, right sides together. Repeat with the the other leg.

That’s it! Those are the only changes we made to the pattern. You can now finish your joggers according to the tutorial. You can add the strip to either one of the leg options, cuffs, elastic or rolled.

Get creative with all these joggers hacks and as always post your pretties in the group.

Alex

Let’s face it- everyone loves a jogger and the Patterns for Pirates Joggers are perfect! One of the things that I love about joggers is that there are so many different ways to style them. One of my favorite looks is the addition of a moto patch. This simple detail can add an extra bit of edge and flair to your joggers and help take an already awesome look to the next level! So let’s get started…

Creating Patch Piece

To start with, you will need to determine how far down to attach the patch. You will want to measure from your inseam to the top of where you want to attach the patch. As you can see in the picture below, mine measured 9.5″. Draw a line across your pattern piece at this measurement. Next, you will draw the bottom line for your patch- your next line should be 7″ down from this line (your finished patch will be at total of 6″). Using tracing paper, copy this section of your pattern to create your moto-patch.

Quilting the Patch
You will need to cut out two mirror image pieces. Next, you will trace your quilting lines on each piece (make sure to do mirror images!). Begin by marking both the horizontal and vertical centers of your piece (if you don’t have a quilters ruler- this mod is a GREAT excuse to go purchase one!!). After marking centers, draw lines every 2 inches in both directions. The final markings will be on the diagonals- connecting your squares. Repeat on the other patch.

After completing your markings, stitch across all of the diagonal marks only. Then, take a few minutes and admire all of the hard work you just did— Ok! Moment over, because now you get to repeat all of that beautiful stitching on the other patch!

Finishing and Attaching Patch
Press both the top and bottom of your patch, using a 0.5″ allowance to create a finished edge. Taking your front leg piece, place patch piece 0.5″ lower than original line (to account for your pressed seam… ex. Mine was at 9.5″ and I placed the patch at 10″ down) and pin in place.
Using a 0.25″ seam allowance, stitch the top and bottom into place. Then stitch over the horizontal lines only to finish creating your quilted look. You can now complete your Joggers by following the pattern directions.

And if you needed a few other ideas for you patches, you could also…

Cut your patches at angles
Place patches on thighs
Mix and match fabric patterns
Use fabrics that are already quilted (Yes- They exist and would be a huge time saver for this!)

I can’t wait to see how your patches (and joggers!) turn out. Make sure to share all of your creations on the P4P Facebook page!

~Erinn

I have been eying up all the adorable woven joggers that seem to be everywear this season and as soon as I saw the new P4P joggers I thought hmm, I wonder if then could be done in woven and guess what, they work great in woven for the baby bear joggers! I sewed up this pair for my daughter in a rayon challis remenant that I found and they are just too cute on her and super trendy right now! I didn’t alter anything while sewing but if your child has thicker calfs or ankles you may want to grade out one size to give a bit more room or take a smaller seam allowance from the calf down. These have the elastic waistband but as I had some 1 1/4 elastic in my stash Idecided to use it instead of doing the 3 rows of elastic. I inserted my elastic into the waistband and then basted the seam allowance before attaching the waistband to the pants. I did the elastic casing cuff which worked great the rolled cuff may be a touch to tight thou for wovens. No other changes to these and my girl has adorable woven joggers! I can’t wait till spring to make her a pile more!

I love the little shorties or bloomers look for my Baby Girl. Show off those rolls on her legs that I love so much! It’s very simple to use the new Baby Bear Joggers to create this cute, trendy look!

I determined the inseam by estimating how wide I would need it to cover her diaper. I made hers about 1″ before bands…they could’ve used another 1/2″ really though. I marked this on the inseam of back and front pieces. The side seam length I determined by thinking about how long I needed it to cover the diaper. I curved the bottom hem up towards the outer leg seam by about 2″ on both the back and front pieces.

I sewed the pattern up per the directions. To finish the bottom hem I added thick bands. I made them finish 1.5″ matching the waistband thickness. So, I cut 4″ by slightly shorter than my leg opening. You want to stretch the bands to fit the leg openings so that your bands are snug to their thighs.

Fold the bands in half width wise with right sides together (I wanted the “wrong side” to show on my bands.

Fold the band in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.

Align raw edges with raw edges of shorts and stitch, stretching band only as you sew all three layers together. Then flip band down with seam inside shorts.

I think they’re so precious! My Baby Girl has been sick and wasn’t really up for pictures, but we snapped just a couple to show them a bit.

Free Spirit Tank – mash up & high low hem

August 30, 2016

I’m sure by now we’ve all been invited to a least one “Buy these clothes” Facebook party and we’ve been tempted to buy some outfits only to think “nah…I can make it myself”. Am I right? Well that was my thought when I saw one of this big online company’s newest relaxed fit dress that features a high low hem.

Today on the blog I wanted to show you my version of this popular dress and teach you how to use your favorite P4P patterns to make yourself one. First you will need the Free Spirit Tank (which just got updated to include the Layer Feature!) and the Boyfriend Vneck shirt patterns, a ruler, markers, paper, your fabric of choice, a measuring tape and a French curve ,if possible (A great investment if you don’t have one!). Start by printing the patterns according to the instructions and then cut your size and the high low option.

I used the sleeves and armcyce from the Boyfriend V neck shirt because it has a looser fit. If you are unsure how to mash the two patterns to add sleeves to the FST, use Judy’s Free Spirt Tank- Layer Me Up mash up tutorial. You would apply the same guidelines and tutorial. Even better, the Vneck Boyfriend tee includes a pocket piece too!

Now that we have the sleeves part covered, let’s move on the the high low hem. Grab your measuring tape because it’s time to take some additional measurement to create the above knee dress length. Measure the length from underarm to above knee, now measure the FST pattern piece from underarm to the hi low hem mark line. In doing so you’ll figure out how many inches you’ll be extending the side. In my case it was approximately 10 inches.

Attach some blank papers to the bottom of your pattern so you extend it. Using a straight ruler add the 10 inches side extension to both the front and back pattern pieces. Now we will create the front and back curved hems. The back curve will be a much more deep one than the front. Take the front piece and mark 12 inches down from the high low hem. Using a French curve draw a curve from the side point to the center seam. We will draft the back curved hem the same way only this time we’ll mark the extended center mark at 14 inches and carefully draw a curve between the side mark and the center.

That’s all! You’ve now drafted your own “Carly” inspired dress. Cut out the pieces and sew them according to the pattern instruction. The Boyfriend V neck shirt includes a pocket so I added it to the FST front too. Simply mark the pocket placement from the Boyfriend shirt on the FST pattern.

TIP: the bottom hem will have a pretty big back curved hem so don’t forget the tips I gave you in a earlier blog about hemming knits.

Let me know if you have any questions by posting them in the comments below. As always, don’t forget to show off your creations in the group. I can’t wait to see your versions of this dress.

Alex

Carefree with added Button

December 22, 2015

I’ve seen a lot of draped front cardigans with the big wooden buttons on Pinterest and in the Boutiques…and of course I thought, “I can do that!” So the Carefree Cardigan Big Button Modification was born!

The Carefree Cardigan is perfect for the look.

I choose the neckband only option, cuffed long sleeve, and choose to leave the front and bottom raw.

I’ve been making a ton of Carefrees after Baby Girl made her arrival… it is such a nice baby wearing cardigan that I feel cute in and can wrap us both up in when it’s windy or cold. I can also use it nursing her so easily without worrying about bringing another cover or getting anything on or ready when she’s ready to nurse! So, I thought I’d make TWO buttonhole placements… one for normal wear that just pulls the cardigan closed at the neckline… and a second for when I’m wearing Baby Girl and need the neckline open much more.

I sewed up my entire cardigan exactly as normal. Then tried it on both with Baby Girl on me and without and marked where I would like the cardigan to close. Of course, Little Guy had to come photobomb a few shots ;).

I placed my button down a bit away from my neck, because I happen to be one of those people who can’t stand anything tight up against their neck (you will never see a turtle neck from this designer ;)).

So now I needed to create the buttonholes, which is a bit different then usual because I wanted the GIANT buttons that are so popular right now and my sewing machine can’t fit a button near that big on my automatic buttonhole foot. SOOOO, I made my own buttonhole with 2 different size zigzag stitches.

First I marked my button placement and how big I need the buttonhole to be.

Then I sewed a very narrow rectangle that would be my buttonhole. I turned my zigzag length down very low to 1, so that it was a tight stitch.

For the top and bottom of my rectangle I used a wide 5 zigzag and for the sides I used a narrow 2. I simple freehanded it.

I used matching navy thread, so I knew if it wasn’t exactly perfect that no one would be able to see. Actually, the thread matched so close it was REALLY difficult to get a picture of the buttonhole!