Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Plushie Pals :: Free Sewing Pattern + Tutorial!

It’s February, which means I’m already brainstorming cute gift ideas for Valentine’s Day for the kiddos in my life.  I love sending little packages of things to my niece and nephew up north, and including something handmade is always at the top of my list.  And that’s exactly why these Plushie Pals were born!

We are bringing our newest pattern to you today, keeping in mind that you’re probably short on time like the rest of us.  The Plushie Pals are super duper fast to sew, and end with the cutest results!  The fox, bunny and bear pattern pieces are all included, but the pattern itself would be incredibly easy to adjust into just about any animal or character that you could think of!  Let’s get to sewing, shall we?

 

Grab your “PLUSHIE PALS” pattern pieces here!

Oh! This time around, I loaded the pieces onto Cricut Design Space so you could cut them with your Maker.  Find them here: Plushie Pals for Cricut Maker

Fabric Requirements (based upon 44″ wide fabrics): 

– 1/3 yard main body fabric.  Directional prints will require more.  (I like to use flannel, but quilting cottons / kona cottons / felt will all work for this!)
– Felt for fox face and bear/fox bellies.  The edges are left raw on these pieces, so you’ll want to use something that won’t fray.
– Scrap sizes of fabrics for ear accent colors.
– Buttons, embroidery thread for facial features.
– Fiberfill.

1/4″ seam allowance used throughout pattern, unless otherwise indicated.

  • For Fox/Bear options: With both fabrics facing up, align the belly piece to one of the main body pieces and stitch along long, outer curve, at around 1/8″ inch.

  • For Fox option only: With both fabrics facing up, align the face piece to main body piece and stitch along top and bottom edges, at around 1/8″ inch.

  • For all options: This is the best time to add facial features to your Plushie Pal.  Using a fabric marker (I used a permanent one so it would show easier in photos), draw a triangular nose shape to help guide your stitches, if choosing to embroider the details.  Details could also be applied and look adorable in fabric paints or using HTV.  We didn’t include any specific facial details in the pattern because there are so many different ways to make a face. 🙂

  • For Fox/Bear options: Place two ear pieces, right sides together.

  • Sew along outer edge(s).

  • Clip seam allowances and turn ears right sides out.  Press.  Topstitch if desired.  *repeat with second ear.

  • For Bunny option: Place two ear pieces, right sides together.

  • Sew along outer curved edges.

  • Clip seam allowances and turn ears right sides out.  Press.  Topstitch if desired.

  • Fold along the top, raw edge, meeting the corners together.  Clip or baste top edge in place.  Repeat with other ear.

  • For all options: With right sides together, align ears using the markings on the pattern pieces.

**Note: The bear and fox ears will need to be eased in along the curved edges.  While the bunny ears will simply be centered against the marking on the body piece, be sure to tuck them out of the way while sewing so you don’t catch them in the next steps.

  • With the front body piece facing upwards, place the back body piece on top (right sides together).

  • Sew along entire outer edge, leaving only about a 3″ opening along one of the sides for turning.

  • Clip corners and seam allowances before turning.  It is recommended to use pinking shears around all of the curved edges for a cleaner look once turned and stuffed.  I circled the most important parts to make sure to clip, in order to avoid wrinkles or pulling at the “joints” of the arms and legs.

  • Turn your Plushie Pal right sides out, through the opening you left in the previous step.

  • Using fiberfil, stuff your Pal to your liking.  Be careful not to overstuff.  And using a tool like a chopstick / bodkin is incredibly helpful for filling the arms and legs and getting the stuffing into the corners easily.

  • Tuck your seam allowance back into the opening.  Pin or clip.  And using your favorite method, stitch it shut.

You’re all done!  Be careful — once you make one, you’re going to want to make ten more!  (Ask me how I know…..)  They’re just so darn cute!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Plushie Pals that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Valentine’s Day, friends!

2019 Holiday Freebies :: Hooded Blanket

Alas, we have arrived to the final day of the 2019 Holiday Freebies.  But do not fret, my friends.  Because what we’ve got in store for you today is super fun!

Blankets are a hot commodity in our household.  At least between my son and I.  We love to snuggle on the couch under all the cozy blankets that we can, while catching up on our favorite Netflix movie or series.  I mean, who doesn’t?  We upped the blanket coziness a little by adding a hood.  And some hand pockets.  And then gave them some ears so we could be cute and cuddly at the same time.  It’s really the best thing ever!

Grab your “HOODED BLANKET” pattern pieces here!

Fabric Requirements (Most fabrics work great for this! My favorites are fleece and minky.):

  • 1.5 yards of lining
  • 1.5 yards main fabric

For blanket pieces, you will need 1 main + 1 lining fabric 54″w x 40″t
The great thing about this pattern is that you can adjust the height and width of your blanket to your own liking!  If you want it larger or smaller….go for it!  Just remember that you may need additional yardage if you do.

1. Hem long, angled edge of hand pockets by folding under 1/2″ (toward wrong side) and edge stitching.

2. Align at top two corners of blanket lining piece and baste in place. Both lining and hand pocket fabrics will be right sides facing up.

3. Optional ears: Sew ear pieces, right sides together, leaving bottom edge open. Repeat with other ear.  Turn right-sides-out and top stitch if desired.

4. Place front hood pieces, right sides together.  Stitch along bottom curve.

5.  Turn right side out.  Top stitch if desired.

6. Align ear notch to marked point on the hood front. Baste place. Repeat with second ear.

7. Place the main back hood piece, right sides up.

8. Place the front piece sections on top, main fabrics together.

9. Place lining back hood on top, right sides down.  Sew along entire top curve.

10. Turn right sides out.

11.  Mark middle points of hood and blanket lining piece.  Baste hood in place, with hood opening facing down towards lining piece.

12. Place main blanket piece on top, right sides facing down.  Sew along all four outer edges, leaving 6-8″ opening for turning.

13. Turn right sides out. Press. Sew the opening closed, using your favorite method.
Optional: Top stitch along entire outer edge.

Need some inspiration for your very own Hooded Blanket?  Check out what our testers sewed up for themselves:

 

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me!  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2019 Holiday Freebies :: Ugly Sweater Party DIYs

Woohoo!  We’ve made it to the fourth day of the 2019 Holiday Freebies!  I’ve been having a blast sharing with you all week!

Today’s freebie is a little different than the rest, but so. stinking. fun.  This time of year is constantly filled with invites to “Ugly Sweater parties”.  I thought it might be fun to give you some DIY ideas to make something to wear to them!

There are three things we are going to make today, and you’ll need pattern pieces for all of them.

Grab your “UGLY SWEATER PARTY DIYs” pattern pieces here!

TREE CIRCLE SKIRT

When I created this, I was picturing turning myself into a Christmas tree – but doing it in a semi-cute way.  This pattern is three circle skirts layered on top of each other, completely hemmed in a white pom pom trim.  Sweet.  Simple.  A little on the tacky side still.  But totally holiday party worthy.

Check the size chart before sewing to know which skirt size you need to make!

Fabric Requirements in yards (based upon 54″ knit fabrics):

To get a full circle skirt, we will be cutting three layers of skirts on the double fold, using the cutout piece.

1. Place the cutout piece in between both of folds.  Measure the distance from bottom of the cutout piece.  First for 12″, then for 16″ and then another circle at 20″.

2. Cut out the middle circle along the pattern piece.

3. If desired, add your trim / hem each layer of the skirt pieces.

4. Meeting the short ends together, fold the waistband piece right sides together.

5. Now meeting the long ends together, fold the waistband piece a second time.  You’ll have a fold along one of the sides and the bottom.

6. Sew along raw, short edge.  And then flip to right sides out.

7. Mark the quarter points on your waistband piece.

8. With all three layers of the skirt aligned at the waist opening, mark the quarter points of the skirt as well.

9. Aligning all raw edges and quarter points, sew through all 5 layers of fabric, attaching the waistband to the three layers of the skirt.  Flip up the waistband and wear your new tree inspired skirt!

ELF COLLAR

You can use this on pretty much any tshirt pattern you might already own.  While my tutorial is using the Boho Babydoll, it can be used on most adult and youth patterns and sizes.  You can be your very own Elf on the Shelf, in case that’s been your lifelong dream!

1. Keeping the collar piece folded, lay one of the pieces out in front of you.

2. Place the back bodice pattern piecs on top, aligning the shoulder point and fold.


3. Cut the neckline into the collar piece.  And repeat with the other collar piece, this time using the front bodice pattern piece.

4. Place one collar piece on surface, with right side facing toward you.

5. With right sides together, place other collar piece on top.  Sew, using same seam allowance as the pattern you are attaching it to.  (In my case, it is 1/2″.)

6. Sew shoulder seams of your tee pattern.

7. Open up and lay flat on surface, with the wrong side facing up.

8. Place collar on top with wrong sides facing up, aligning raw edges.  Sew along entire neck opening, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

9. Flip collar through, turning right sides out.  Top stitch along entire opening, if desired.  Assemble the remainder of your top pattern.

SNOWMAN APPLIQUE

Frosty and you might be BFFs and you need to put his face on a tee.  I’m the last person to judge, trust me.  This applique is super easy to attach, and I would highly recommend doing so *before* sewing up your entire top…it might be easier for you to add all of the facial features on a front bodice piece, rather than the entire shirt.

1.  For the top hat, use the guidelines to clip into the seam allowance in the corners.

2. Press, wrong sides together, 1/2″ seam allowance, allowing all raw edges to be folded under.

3. Repeat with Nose piece.

 

4. Pin and applique / zig zag stitch along entire outer edges of top hat and nose.  Add button eyes and mouth.  Finish assembling your top pattern, as directed.

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulously dorky and “ugly” things that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Holidays, friends!

2019 Holiday Freebies :: Pixie Hat

Are you ready for another super fun day of freebies for the 2019 Holiday Freebies with Patterns for Pirates?  Because I am!!

Today’s free pattern for you is a super, duper easy one.  And such a fun sew!  Let’s get to the Pixie Hat, shall we?

Grab your “PIXIE HAT” pattern pieces here!

Check the size chart before sewing to know which size you need to make!

Fabric Requirements (based upon 44″ quilting cottons):

  • – 3/4” or 7/8” ribbon (34″ for Toddler size, 35″ for Youth size, 36″ for Teen/Adult size)
    – 2/3 yard each lining + main. I like flannel for this!

Lay your piece with right side of the fabric up, facing you.

Meeting the short ends, fold the piece in half, with right sides together.
With 1/2” seam allowance, sew along one of the long edges.
Repeat with lining piece.


With the lining piece right sides out, and the main piece wrong sides out, put the lining piece inside of the main.

Align all edges and sew long, raw edge, using 1/2” seam allowance.

Turn right sides out. And top stitch along long edge, if desired.

If desired, baste/serge the bottom edge of the hat.

Press 1/4” and then 1” toward lining, to create ribbon casing. Top stitch along top edge of the fold.

Using a bodkin / safety pin, thread ribbon through casing.

**Quick reminder time!  To prevent fraying, you will want to seal the edges of your ribbon with heat.

Allow for only 12” of ribbon to be on either side of casing. Secure with stitches. It will gather to about 2/3 of the width of your hat bottom.
You’re done!

And just in case you’re in need of some inspirations, here are a few photos from our fabulous testers!

As always, our favorite thing is when you share what you’ve made from our patterns!  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and let us “oooh” and “aaah” over what you’ve created!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2019 Holiday Freebies :: Hey Cookie Apron

Happy December, Pirates!! I am beyond thrilled to be back again for another round of holiday freebies!  We’ve got five days worth of free sewing patterns for you…starting right now!

I have been wanting a cute circle skirt style apron for so long now, and I thought it would be the perfect time to make it happen.  Let’s kick off this incredibly fun week with our first pattern, the Hey Cookie Apron.

Hey Cookie is drafted for adults, with the waist sizes ranging from 23″ – 57″, in sizes Snickerdoodle, Chocolate Chip, Gingersnap, and Shortbread.

Grab your “HEY COOKIE APRON” pattern pieces here!

Check the size chart before sewing to know which cookie size you need to make!

Fabric Requirements (based upon 44″ quilting cottons):

  • Main Fabric: 1 3/8 yards
  • Lining/Accent Fabric: 1 7/8 yards
  • Iron-on lightweight interfacing recommended (I like Pellon PLF36 or Heat n Bond Thermoweb 3336, affiliate links) for keeping neck and waist ties crisp.  Some testers preferred it without, so it’s completely optional!

Prepare your pieces.  The seam allowance is 1/2″ throughout all of the steps.

1. If desired, iron your stabilizer onto appropriates pieces (2 neck straps, 2 waist straps, 1 bib)

2. With one of your neck strap pieces, fold one short end 1/2″ toward wrong side and press.

3. Lay with wrong side facing you. Fold in half, meeting the long edges together. Press.
Open up your piece and fold one of the raw edges toward the middle crease you just made.
Repeat with the second raw edge. Press.
Fold along middle crease, meeting both folded edges. All of your raw edges will be fully enclosed now.

4. Press your strap piece. Edge stitch along both long, outer edges and one short edge.
**Repeat with second neck strap and both waist straps.

5. Place bib lining piece, face up.

6. Place one neck strap piece 1/2″ from edge, at the top of bib piece.

7. Repeat with second neck strap, on opposite side of the bib piece. Baste in place.

8. Place main bib piece on top, right sides together, sandwiching the neck straps between the two bib pieces. Sew along both sides and top edge.

9. Turn right side out, press. Top stitch along top and sides.

10. Place main skirt piece, right side facing you. Lay one of the side skirt pieces on top, right sides together.

11. Sew along straight edge.

12. Press seams open.

13. Repeat on opposite side.**Repeat with lining fabric.

14. Mark middle points of the bib and main skirt pieces.

15. Right sides together, align the bib and main apron piece at their center points.

16. Ease the bib piece to the curve of the apron and baste in place.

17. Along outer skirt edge, align waist straps 1/2″ from top edge. Baste in place.

18. Lay apron with fabric facing upwards. Tuck in all straps and bib.

19. Lay skirt lining on top, right sides together. Sew along entire skirt, leaving 5″ opening along one straight edge for turning.

20. Turn apron right sides out through opening.

21. Press and edge stitch along entire skirt. You’re finished!

Here’s a little inspiration from our fabulous group of testers, in case you needed it.

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Hey Cookie Apron that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!
Happy Holidays, friends!

 

Just Write Skirt :: FREE Sewing Pattern + Tutorial!

Unbelievably so, it’s time to start thinking about Back-to-School season.  Which means that stores are filled to the brim with tempting school supplies.  Is anyone else a pen / notebook / planner nerd like me?  I could spend hours in those aisles.  Life just got a little better for me because now I can really let people know about my undying love for school supplies by wearing it on my sleeve….er skirt!!  Pirate friends, meet the Just Write Skirt!

Before we get started, here are some things you’ll need:

  • Just Write Skirt free Pattern Pieces (found in the store HERE)
  • 1″ Waistband Elastic.  See cut chart for length needed.
  • YouTube Video Tutorial for assembling a pencil panel set (also found at the bottom of this tutorial)
Fabric Requirements (in Yards, rounded to nearest 1/8)
Sizes 2-7 8-12 14 XXS-P1X P2X-P3X
Lining 1/2 5/8 1-1/4 1-1/3 1-1/3
Pencil (yellow) 1/4 1/3 3/4 7/8 7/8
Accent Panel (black) 1/2 5/8 5/8 2/3 2/3
Point Accent (black) 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/3
Lead (grey) 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/4
Ferrule (grey) 1/8 1/8 1/4 1/4 1/4
Eraser (pink) 1/4 1/4 1/3 1/3 1/3
Pencil Wood (off-white) 1/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4

**While the skirt is meant to sit at your natural waist, you will want to choose your size based upon your hip measurement.  Wanting a fuller skirt?  The more pencil panel sets you add, the fuller your skirt becomes.  Just keep in mind that each panel finishes at 5″, and you will need to adjust your lining fabric to account for any extra panels in your awesome skirt!

Sewing for a child who is a blend of sizes?  No sweat!  Just sew up the number of panel sets that is required for their waist/hip measurement, and use the pattern pieces for their height.

And now, onto the tutorial!

Step 1: For each pencil panel, you will need:
– 1 Ferrule piece (grey)
– 1 Eraser piece (pink)
– 1 Pencil body (yellow)
– 1 Pencil wood (off white)
– 1 Pencil lead (grey)
– 2 mirrored Point accents (black)
– 1 Accent panel (black)

Step 2: Lay your “pencil wood” piece, right side up.

Step 3: Lay your “pencil lead” piece on top of your wood piece with right sides together, matching the notches. Sew with 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 4: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 5: Lay out your new pencil point, with one of “point accents” next to it.

Step 6: With right sides together, align the “point accent” along the long angled edge. Sew with 1/2″ seam allowance.

**Note, there will be around 1/2″ of overhang on the top and bottom of the “point accent” piece.

Step 7: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 8: Repeat with the other “point accent”.

Step 9: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 10: Trim off the excess fabric.

Step 11: Lay the piece right side up, and place the “pencil body” right sides together. Align the short edges.

Step 12: Stitch, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 13: Open up pieces and press.

Step 14: Align the “ferrule” piece along the top, shorter edge, right sides together, and sew with 1/2″ seam allowance. Open up the pieces and press.

Step 15: Align the “eraser” piece along the top, shorter edge, right sides together, and sew with 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 16: Open up the pieces and press.

Step 17: Align the “accent panel” along the long edge of both pieces, right sides together. Sew using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 18: Open up pieces and press.

Repeat according to the number of “sets of panels” required for the size skirt being sewn.

Step 19: Begin to join the panels to form a skirt.

Step 20: With right sides together, align each panel along the long edge and sew using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 21: Continue until all of the panels are sewn together.

Step 22: Fold your set in half, right sides together, and sew to create a tube.

Step 23: You should now have a circle of pencils.

Step 24: Align your lining fabric with right sides together.

Step 25: Sew along both sides, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 26: Turn your main skirt right sides facing outwards, and keep your lining fabric with the right sides facing in.

Step 27: Slide your main skirt inside of the lining, with the right sides together.

Step 28: Sew along the bottom edge opening, careful to sew only one layer of lining to one layer of the main skirt.

Step 29: Open up the pieces, so they are right sides out.

Step 30: Slide the lining inside of the main skirt, wrong sides together, completely enclosing all of your seams.

If desired, edge stitch along the bottom of the skirt.

Step 31: Treating your main and lining fabrics as one, press 1/2″ along the entire top, raw edge, toward the lining side.

**Quick tip: You might find it easier to manage the double layers if you serge / zig-zag stitch around the top raw edge before folding and pressing.

Step 32: Press an additional 1-1/2″, creating a casing.

Step 33: Pin and sew along the entire skirt, edge stitching close to the fold in the casing. Leave a 2-3″ opening for elastic.

Step 34: Using a pin or bodkin, thread your elastic through the opening you left in the casing.

Be careful not to twist your elastic.

Step 35: Pull the elastic out the other side of your casing, overlap at 1″ and secure the ends together.

Step 36: Pin and stitch closed the opening in your casing.

Step 37: Press and admire your new “Just Write” skirt!
Are more of a “learn by watching” type?  If so, here’s a video to walk you through the steps of creating the pencil panels:

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off super awesome Just Write things that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!

In case you were looking for a little inspiration on your own Just Write Skirt, check out our tester album and take a look at all of the gorgeous items our creative friends have made!

Happy Back-to-School season, Pirate Friends!

Heart Pouch :: Free Valentine Sewing Pattern!

Have we told you (our Pirate family) lately that we love you?  We love you so much, that we are giving our hearts to you this Valentine’s Day.

Well, maybe not our actual hearts…but a Heart Pouch sewing pattern.  And it’s free!!  This zipper style pouch is super easy, quick, and fun to make, and takes very little fabric.  (Plus maybe you have some 9″ zippers laying around from the scarfs that you never got around to making this past holiday season??  It’s a perfect way to use up that stash!)

**Stick around all the way to the bottom of this post for a video tutorial of the assembly of these sweet little pouches as well!

— Heart Pouch PDF free pattern pieces (found HERE)
— 2 – 8″x8″ pieces cotton woven for main + lining fabrics
— Lightweight Fusible Interfacing: I like Pellon SF101, or Heat & Bond 3336 (aff links)
— 1 – 9″ zipper

Recommended fabrics: quilting cotton, kona cotton, etc.

Step 1: Prepare your pieces.  You will need one each of the pouch back, pouch upper front, and pouch lower front; in your main, lining and interfacing fabrics.

Step 2: Following the instructions from the manufacturer, iron the interfacing to your main fabric pieces.

Step 3: Locate the upper front piece in your main fabric, and lay it with the fabric face up.

Step 4: With the zipper face down, align it against the straight, raw edge of your pattern piece.

Step 5: With your upper front lining piece face down, align it along the straight edge, sandwiching the zipper between the two pieces of fabric.  Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 6: Flip open the upper front pieces, so they are now touching with wrong sides together, and your zipper is exposed.  Press and topstitch, if desired.

Step 7: Locate your lower front piece in your main fabric, and lay it with the fabric face up.

Step 8: Lay your upper front pieces with the main fabric face down, aligning the zipper to the long straight edge of the lower piece.

Step 9: Similar to step 5, align the lower front lining pieces along the straight edge, sandwiching the zipper between the two pieces of fabric.  Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 10: Flip open the lower front pieces, so they are now touching with wrong sides together, and your zipper is exposed.  Press and topstitch, if desired.

Step 11: Open up your zipper, and trim any excess length if needed.

Step 12: Clip your zipper opening together and zigzag stitch to baste the edge shut.

Step 13: Lay your completed front piece with the main fabric face up.

Step 14: Place your main back piece on top, with right sides together.

Step 15: Flip the entire group over, so that now the lining side is face up.

Step 16: Place your lining back piece on top, with right sides together.

Step 17: Pin/clip and sew entire outer edge with 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 2″ – 3″ opening along one of the straighter sides.

Step 18: Clip into the top point seam allowance as closely as you can, without clipping through your stitches.  Trim around entire outer edge, for easy and cleaner turning.

Step 19: Turn your pouch right sides out, through the opening of the main fabric pieces.

Step 20: Press and smooth out all corners, round edges and bottom point.

Step 21: To close up your opening with no raw edges showing, pinch three of the raw edges together…treating them as one.  And the fourth raw edge as it’s own.

Step 22: Tuck raw edges in and pin/clip.

Step 23: Using your favorite blind stitch, close up the opening.

Step 24: You’re finished!  Go fill your new heart pouch with whatever goodies will fit in it, or gift it to someone who will do the same.

Are you someone who considers themselves to be more of a visual learner?  Here’s a video that walks you through all of the same steps above.  Hopefully it helps!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Heart Pouch that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Valentine’s Day, friends!

2018 Holiday Freebies :: Critter Clutch

Welcome back to the second day of our P4P Holiday Freebies 2018!  I’m not sure I can even handle the excitement I have over today’s free pattern.  I am so happy to have this idea out of my head and finally in pattern form, to share with all of you.  AND FOR FREE!

These Critter Clutches are simply adorable!  They take minimal amounts of fabric, with not too much time involved in it.  The hardest part is deciding which version to do first: Unicorn, Reindeer or Fox??!!

You will need:
— Critter Clutch pattern pieces + Eye Digital Designs for HTV (found HERE)
— 1/2 yard main fabric, 1/2 yard lining fabric
— Fusible Fleece: I like Pellon 987F (aff link)
— Buttons / Snaps / Velcro for eyes and closures

Recommended fabrics: quilting cotton, kona cotton, flannel, etc.

Cut out all pieces needed for your corresponding bag.

Prepping the Strap:

Cut 3″ long x 34″ wide strip of fabric.
**Note: Depending if you or the recipient will be wearing it cross body or straight down from one shoulder, you may want to adjust the width of this piece to your liking.

1. Fold in half, with long edges touching, wrong sides together. Press.
2. + 3. Open up, and fold each long edge into the crease you just created.
4. Fold, completely enclosing the raw edges.

Edge stitch along both long edges. Set aside.  Finished width: 3/4″.

Horn / Ear / Antler / Nose Pieces: 

*Tip: I added fusible fleece to these pieces to help them stand up better.  Some of our testers opted to fill them with a small amount of fiberfil.  Either way works!

Right sides together, sew along the outer edges using 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave the bottom open for turning.

Clip corners and allowance before turning to get a crisper edge.  Topstitch if desired.

I like to get a little funky with the unicorn horn and add some decorative stitches to it.  This also helps the horn’s stiffness.

Apply Interfacing:

Carefully trim away 1/4″ from each interfacing piece, to allow for easier turning.

Following the instructions from the manufacturer, apply interfacing to these pieces:

  • Front Main Piece
  • Main Gussett

Eyes + Closures:

I personally like to add the eyes and velcro / snaps to the front main piece before we assemble the bag.  It allows for all of the stitching or snaps to be enclosed inside of the bags, and it’s a lot easier to apply HTV to a flat surface.  You can wait until the end if you’d like!

The Fox and Reindeer’s eyes need to be a little more wide set.  And the Unicorn’s eyes work best if you apply them closer to the bottom of the bag front.

Velcro / button placement on front main piece:

  • Unicorn / Plain Bag: 2″ from the top, centered (4.5″ from either side)
  • Fox / Reindeer: 2″ from the bottom, centered

Velcro / button placement on Back Lining piece:

  • Unicorn / Plain Bag: 2″ from the top, centered (4.5″ from either side)
  • Fox / Reindeer: 1.5″ from the bottom, centered

REINDEER ONLY:

1″ from the top edge, pin and baste ears in place using 1/8″ seam allowance.

Back Main Assembly:

UNICORN ONLY: Take back main piece and mark the center along the top, straight edge.  Mark center of horn piece.

Right sides together, align and pin/clip horn in place.

Place ears on either side of horn.  **Be sure not to go outside of your seam allowance on the outer edges, or you’ll have trouble turning your bag because the ears will be stuck in the outer edges.

FOX and REINDEER ONLY:

Right sides together, place ears and antlers (not pictured) 1″ from the outer edge.

ALL ANIMAL BAGS:

Place top piece, right sides together. Stitch with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Press open, with horn, antlers and/or ears pressed toward top and seam allowance pressed down.

Follow the manufacturer directions and iron your fusible interfacing onto the back side of the back main piece.

Attaching the Gusset:

Mark middle bottom of back piece and middle of both long edges of outer gusset piece.

Right sides together, ease gusset around bottom edge of back piece.  Sew using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Repeat for front main piece, attaching right sides together to other edge of gusset.

Repeat for lining pieces. Only this time, leave 4-5″ gap in one of the lining curves, to allow for turning.

Using 1/4″ allowance, baste straps, centered, on side gusset pieces. 

Final Assembly:

With the lining piece right sides out and the main, outer bag piece wrong sides out, slide the lining inside and align entire top edge.

Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance. Clip all edges and curves for cleaner turning.

Locate the opening you’d left in the lining.

Turn bag right-side-out through opening.

Pin and sew the opening in the lining closed, using your favorite blind or ladder stitch.

Press bag.  Topstitch around top edge if desired.

Reindeer Nose:

Align the nose at the very bottom of the front flap piece.  Top stitch the entire circle, catching the flap in your stitches and affixing the nose to the flap piece.

YOU’RE FINISHED!  DO A HAPPY DANCE!

In case you needed it, here is some inspiration for the different designs sewn up by our amazing testers!

UNICORN:

REINDEER

FOX

PLAIN

I hope you love these little cuties as much as I do.  Don’t forget to share your finished projects in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group!  Happy Holidays, friends!

2018 Holiday Freebies :: Infinity Scarf with Hidden Zipper Pocket

Happy December, friends!!  It is my pleasure to be back again this year with an entire week of goodies for you.  AND THEY ARE ALL FREE!  That’s right, you are about to embark on a five day journey of free sewing patterns and tutorials.  I’m excited to get started!

Today’s freebie is a twist on a classic infinity scarf…we added a hidden, zippered pocket to it!  It’s a perfect little space to store your phone, keys, or anything that you’d like to carry with you but don’t want to need a purse or extra hand for. It’s a super quick sew and is at the top of my gift-giving list this holiday season.

Let’s get started!

Fabric Requirements: 2 yards of knit, flannel, or a light-weight woven.

You will need:
— Main Scarf Piece: 28″ W x 72″ L (can be woven or knit. If using a knit, you may need small strips of stabilizer where you’re attaching your zipper)
— 2 pocket pieces: 9″ W x 7″ L
— 9″ Zipper **You can make the pocket bigger / smaller by adjusting the size width of your pocket pieces to match the length of your zipper.

1.) With your main fabric laying RIGHT SIDE UP, lay your zipper FACING DOWNWARDS, 5″ from the edge of your fabric, along one of the long edges.

2.) Sandwich your zipper by laying a pocket piece on top, RIGHT SIDE DOWN.

3.) Pin/clip and sew along edge, using a zipper foot to get as close to zipper as you can.

4.) Flip your pocket piece up and away from the main fabric.

5.) Fold your pocket piece under the main fabric (their wrong sides should be touching now).

6.) Fold main fabric together, matching the long sides to each other.

7.) Making sure you’re still 5″ from the short edge, align the unsewn side of the zipper to the opposite long edge of your fabric. Once again, your zipper should be FACE DOWN.

8.) Sandwich your zipper by laying your other pocket piece on top, RIGHT SIDE DOWN.

9.) Pin/clip and sew along edge.

10.) For easier sewing on the next step, I like to unzip my zipper a bit, to get the pull out of the way.

11.) With fabric still RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, sew with 1/2″ seam allowance along long edges, and outer edges of pocket.

12.) This step might feel a little tricky, but it’s really not! You’re going to want to keep your fabric inside out, while folding it in half to still have right sides together, and the short edges meeting each other. I find it easiest to stick my arm all the way inside, grabbing the opposite short end, and then pulling it toward me from the inside, being careful not to twist it. Align the short edges to each other.

13.) Stitch the raw edges together with 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 4-5″ opening for turning.

14.) Turn scarf right side out, pulling the entirety of the fabric through the opening you created in the last step.

15.) Pin and close up the opening with a blind stitch. You’re finished!

Here’s a little inspiration from our fabulous group of testers, in case you needed it.

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Infinity Scarf that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Holidays, friends!

**Since there was such a high amount of requests for a video tutorial, here you go!

Trick or Treat Bag :: Free Sewing Tutorial + Pattern!

Let’s get to it, my Pirate friends!  This my favorite time of the year: HALLOWEEN!!  It’s full of kitchy decorations, creative costumes, and lots of sewing (at least for me!) and is also the start of the holiday season.

We are all treats and no tricks this year, by giving you a quick and easy Trick or Treat Bag that you can whip up in no time for your littles — or yourself!  It doesn’t take much fabric and is a great way to finally use up all of that fun cotton woven that you keep buying while browsing the fabric store, without any actual plan of what you’re going to make with it.

This tote is meant to be made with woven (non-stretch) fabrics.  You will need a little under 3/4 Yard of the main fabric, and 1/2 Yard of the lining fabric.  This bag ends up being reversible — so if you can’t decide between fabrics (which we couldn’t at all….the prints this time of year are SO CUTE!!), you can use it one way, and then turn it inside out and use it again.  It’s like two bags in one!

Step 1: Cut 2 Main Fabric pieces and 2 Lining Pieces 18″ long x 15″ wide.  Cut 2 Straps 24″ long x 4″ wide.

Step 2: Lay main bag pieces, right sides together.

Step 3: Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew along the side and bottom edges.

Step 4: Repeat Steps 2 + 3 with lining fabric, only this time leaving a 3-4″ opening in the middle bottom for turning.

Step 5: Trim seam allowances and corners on both main and lining pieces.  Be careful not to clip through your seams, and leave the allowance on the opening of the lining piece.  Set aside main and lining bag pieces for now.

Step 6: With one of your strap pieces, lay with wrong side facing you.  Fold in half, meeting the long edges together.  Press.

Step 7: Open up your piece and fold one of the raw edges toward the middle crease you just made.

Step 8: Repeat with the second raw edge. Press.

Step 9: Fold along middle crease, meeting both folded edges. All of your raw edges will be fully enclosed now.

Step 10: Press you strap piece.  Then edge stitch along both long, outer edges.  Repeat with second strap.

Step 11: Grab your main bag piece and turn right sides out.

Step 12: Careful not to twist your strap, pin raw edges in place, measuring 3″ from the edge of your bag.  Baste, using 1/4″ allowance.  Repeat on other side of main bag piece, using the other strap.

Step 13: With your main bag piece (with straps now basted onto it) right sides out, and lining piece wrong sides out, slide the main bag inside of the lining.

Step 14:  Align raw edges and seams, and pin in place.

Step 15: Using 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch around entire top edge of bag.

Step 16: Through the opening that we left in the bottom of the lining piece, turn your bag right sides out.

Step 17: Using your favorite stitch (I recommend doing a blind hand stitch), close the opening in the bottom of the lining piece.

Step 18: Push lining inside of the main bag piece, press, and admire your new handiwork before your littles steal it and fill it with candy this Halloween!

Happy Halloween, friends!  I’m loving all of the costume photos that have been rolling in so far.  Can’t wait to see the rest of them (hopefully with some new P4P Trick or Treat bags in tow!)

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