pattern Archives - Page 3 of 3 - Patterns for Pirates

How to lower or raise a neckline

January 6, 2017

We have seen a lot questions about raising or lowering the neckline of various P4P shirts or dresses. On the blog today I show you how easy it is to alter the neckline to achieve the look you want. For this tutorial I will use the Sweet Tee pattern in a beautiful viscose rayon (dress option lengthen 3.5″) but you can apply this technique to either one of the shirt patterns.

Start by printing and cutting your pattern in the size needed. The only piece we will be altering will be the front of the shirt (or bodice).

For lowering the neckline you will need to mark on the center fold where you would like the new neckline to be. I usually lower my Sweet Tee neckline 1.5 inches. Using a French Curve (or going slowly) draw a curve similar to the original one from your mark to the inner shoulder point.

Cut your fabric using the new front pattern piece. The rest of the pattern pieces will remain the same. The only other change you will need to make is the length of the neckband or binding.

To raise the neckline you will need to grab your front bodice piece and a blank piece of paper. Align the center fold of the front pattern piece with the side of your paper and glue them together.

Mark a point 1-2 inches above the original top center depending on how high you’d like the neckline. Using the French Curve draw a curve from the center point to the inner shoulder point. Cut the new front using this modified pattern piece and the rest of the pieces as in the original pattern.

The only additional modification you will need to make is to adjust the neckband or binding length. You will need to make it longer or shorter depending on the new neckline. I like to calculate the new neckband length after I sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulder. To find out the new neckline circumference lay the neck opening along a ruler and multiple it by 2.

Your new neckband length will be 85% of this circumference plus 1 inch to accommodate the seam allowance. (C * 0.85 +1 ). Cut the new neckband/binding using the new length but keeping the width suggests in the pattern. All you have left to do now is sew the shirt or dress according to the tutorial and you have just made yourself a custom outfit. Easy peasy…right? 🙂

I can’t wait to see your creations in the Pattern for Pirates group.

Happy sewing, pirates!

2016 Holiday Freebies: Fleece Mittens Pattern!

December 8, 2016

The Pirate Crew is here to bring a little more “yo ho ho” into your holiday with some freebies! Today is the first of three patterns we are releasing, for FREE! In case you were stumped on Christmas sewing ideas, here is the first of our scrap-busting, super quick, free patterns.

These mittens are a one-size fits most. We’ve also provided a cuff and a non-cuff version, so you can mix other fabrics into these easily if you’d like. The pattern is written for a basic fleece fabric, though some of our testers have had success with sweater knits and other various fabrics.

Grab your free pattern pieces here. If you need help putting the pattern together, pop over to the First Time Users Tips page or ask in our facebook group .

Note: I use my sewing machine for the construction of the mitten body, because the thumb area can be really tricky if you’re using a serger. When using fleece, it helps to use a walking foot in your machine to help reduce pulling. It also makes feeding the fleece through your machine a more even process.

Recommended fabrics: Fleece, cuddle/minky, sweatshirt fleece, upcycled sweaters, etc. I suggest washing your fabric before you begin to pre-shrink & help prevent color bleeding in the future.
(Optional cuff) Any knits with at least a 20% stretch.

Supplies needed:

1/3 yard Fleece fabric
(optional cuff) less than 1/4 yard required

Step 1: Assemble your pattern and cut your pieces out. You will need two sets of mirror images of the main body pieces.

Step 2: Lay two mirror images, right sides together. Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around the entire outside of the mitten body. Make sure to leave the bottom open.

Step 3: Clip the corner between the thumb and fingers, making sure not to cut into your stitching, but getting as close as you can to it. This step is super important, otherwise the mitten will fit really strange in the thumb and it’ll be super uncomfortable.

Step 4: [If doing the cuff version, skip to step 6] Turn the opening up 1″ and hem. (Optional: turn 1/2″ and then another 1/2″ to enclose raw edge.)

Step 5: Turn mitten right-side-out. Repeat with second mitten.

Step 6: CUFF VERSION ONLY Complete steps 1-3. Also cut 2 cuff pieces, one for each mitten.

Step 7: Fold your cuff piece, right sides together, meeting the shorter ends together.

Step 8: Stitch (using 1/2″ seam allowance) short ends together.

Step 9: With wrong sides together, fold the raw edges together to meet each other.

Step 10: On both your mitten body and cuff pieces, mark raw edges into halves. (The mitten body will be the two seams. The cuff will be one seam and the halfway point on the opposite side.)

Step 11: Slide the cuff over the mitten body, aligning the raw edges and matching the half-marked points. Note: The cuff is slightly smaller than the mitten body.

Step 12: Stretching the cuff only, stitch through all three layers of raw edges.

Step 13: Flip cuffs down. Repeat with other mitten.

Step 14: Sit back long enough to admire your handiwork, and then go sew a million more pairs of these comfy mittens!

Check out the adorable mittens that our gorgeous testers made! (And check back with us next week, because we’ve got more freebies coming your way!)

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us. Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous mittens you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!

Free Spirit Tank – mash up & high low hem

August 30, 2016

I’m sure by now we’ve all been invited to a least one “Buy these clothes” Facebook party and we’ve been tempted to buy some outfits only to think “nah…I can make it myself”. Am I right? Well that was my thought when I saw one of this big online company’s newest relaxed fit dress that features a high low hem.

Today on the blog I wanted to show you my version of this popular dress and teach you how to use your favorite P4P patterns to make yourself one. First you will need the Free Spirit Tank (which just got updated to include the Layer Feature!) and the Boyfriend Vneck shirt patterns, a ruler, markers, paper, your fabric of choice, a measuring tape and a French curve ,if possible (A great investment if you don’t have one!). Start by printing the patterns according to the instructions and then cut your size and the high low option.

I used the sleeves and armcyce from the Boyfriend V neck shirt because it has a looser fit. If you are unsure how to mash the two patterns to add sleeves to the FST, use Judy’s Free Spirt Tank- Layer Me Up mash up tutorial. You would apply the same guidelines and tutorial. Even better, the Vneck Boyfriend tee includes a pocket piece too!

Now that we have the sleeves part covered, let’s move on the the high low hem. Grab your measuring tape because it’s time to take some additional measurement to create the above knee dress length. Measure the length from underarm to above knee, now measure the FST pattern piece from underarm to the hi low hem mark line. In doing so you’ll figure out how many inches you’ll be extending the side. In my case it was approximately 10 inches.

Attach some blank papers to the bottom of your pattern so you extend it. Using a straight ruler add the 10 inches side extension to both the front and back pattern pieces. Now we will create the front and back curved hems. The back curve will be a much more deep one than the front. Take the front piece and mark 12 inches down from the high low hem. Using a French curve draw a curve from the side point to the center seam. We will draft the back curved hem the same way only this time we’ll mark the extended center mark at 14 inches and carefully draw a curve between the side mark and the center.

That’s all! You’ve now drafted your own “Carly” inspired dress. Cut out the pieces and sew them according to the pattern instruction. The Boyfriend V neck shirt includes a pocket so I added it to the FST front too. Simply mark the pocket placement from the Boyfriend shirt on the FST pattern.

TIP: the bottom hem will have a pretty big back curved hem so don’t forget the tips I gave you in a earlier blog about hemming knits.

Let me know if you have any questions by posting them in the comments below. As always, don’t forget to show off your creations in the group. I can’t wait to see your versions of this dress.

Alex

FREE Youth Bowtie Pattern!

February 22, 2016

Hey Pirates! We’ve got a special treat for you today, coming at you via the Boys Can Wear Pink: Season 2 blog tour (hosted by Handmade Boy). The series focuses on breaking down gender barriers while at the same time showcasing some incredibly talented sewists, and the special boys in their lives. Not only is Patterns for Pirates one of the sponsors of this tour, but we’ve also decided to participate in other ways as well.

P4P girl Katy is participating as a blogger in the series for the second year in a row, with all Patterns for Pirates gear for her kiddo. Go check out the Lumberjack Shirt and Cpt. Comfort Jeans that she made for Louis on her blog HERE. And then come right back, because Katy also decided to write up a pattern for the bowtie she designed and share it with you all. FOR FREE!

Supplies needed:
— Bowtie pattern (find the free pattern download HERE)
— fusible interfacing
— 1/4 yard fabric
— coordinating thread
— small button

**A note about the neckstrap piece. It’s best to measure the neck of whoever you’re making the bowtie for first. The piece included in the pattern is for my 5-year old son, who has a 12″ neck. To make your piece longer or shorter, cut a rectangle that is 2 inches wide x (neck measurement + 3) inches long.

Step 1: Cut out all of your pieces. Interfacing is optional but HIGHLY recommended. It’ll help keep that bow nice and crisp.

Step 2: Iron on interfacing to one bowtie piece and the neckstrap.

Step 3: With right sides together, sew the bowtie pieces along the outer edges (using 1/4″ seam allowance). Be sure to leave an opening, around an inch on one of the curved sides.

Step 4: Turn bowtie piece right side out, through the opening. Clip corners and carefully snip edges along the curves before turning to allow for sharper corners and smoother curves. Press.

Step 5: Topstitch around entire bowtie piece.

Step 6: Fold bowtie piece in half, short sides together. Stitch along the “center back” line, marked according to the pattern piece. Make sure to backstitch at both ends.

Step 7: Open up the bowtie piece and flatten it down to realign the front center seam. Stitch along line. Set aside bow.

Step 8: Locate the center piece. Fold in half, right sides together, along the long edge. Sew long edge with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 9: Turn center piece, right side out.

Step 10: Arrange your new center tube so that the seam is running along the middle of one of the sides. Press.

Step 11: Find your bow. With the top facing you, place the center piece in the middle of the bow. Make sure the seam of the center piece is facing up toward you.

Step 12: Fold the center piece in half, around the bow. Stitch a line, using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 13: Trim excess fabric.

Step 14: Turn center tube, so that the new seam you just created is tucked inside and no longer exposed. Adjust your center piece

Step 15: Take your neckstrap piece and on each of the short ends, fold and press in 1/4″, wrong sides together.

Step 16: With right sides together, fold neckstrap piece along the long edge and stitch.

Step 17: Turn tube right sides out. Arrange your neckstrap tube so that the seam is running right down the middle of your tube. Press. Top stitch along all four edges.

Step 18: Create a buttonhole on one end, and sew the button onto the other. (An easy alternative to buttons is velcro!)

Step 19: Thread the neckstrap through the backside of bow.

Step 20: Sit back and admire your newest make! There’s about to be one dapper dude (or dudette) in your ranks.

Don’t forget to share with us your latest creation! Come hang out with us in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group, we’d love to see what you’ve been working on.

Also make sure to check out the rest of the AMAZING talent involved in the Boys Can Wear Pink: Season 2 Blog Tour. You won’t regret it.

February 22 Wild & Wanderful Handcrafted by Red Made by Jack’s Mum

February 23 Friends Stitched Together Phatquarters Blog Mae and K Free Notion

February 24 Doodle Number 5 Pen Seb Rox Pattern Revolution

February 25 Beri Bee Designs The Kisses Co Rebel and Malice

February 26 Paisley Roots Max-California The Wholesome Mama

February 27 Squishy Face Collection Bunch o Berries Adventures with Bubba and Bug

HattieLu Handmade

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How to use the new Layers feature

January 9, 2016

Patterns for Pirates has added a brand new feature to their newest upcoming patterns! The Layers Feature! This means you can choose to print one size, a couple, or all of them if you’d like. They will still be the “No Trim” style.

Here is a few screenshots to help you use the new feature.

As always, you will need to open and print your PDF from Adobe PDF Reader (a free download if you don’t have it yet).

This is what your screen should look like viewing the PDF pattern pieces:

Now you can print just the sizes you need and save some ink and time tracing off your size! 🙂

As requested, here is our on-going list of patterns that have the layers feature (These are also the patterns that include the A0 Copy Shop File Size):

Freebies:

Youth:

Womens

Mens:

P4P Shirt fits Explained

December 13, 2015

I get asked a lot how the different P4P shirt pattterns compare fit wise.

So to help those visual people (most of us sewing/creative types are!), I created a little line drawing with the hourglass figure in each shirt.

Remember, P4P is designed for an hourglass figure; so if you have a different body type you will have a different fit unless you follow your measurements and grade between the sizes you are.

Also, “hips” are the widest part of you- usually your booty. So while looking at the line drawings, remember that the widest part is really the booty!

Here is the quick line drawing:

And for more quick overview here I am in every P4P shirt. I was a solid medium at the time of all pictures unless noted.

Layer Me Up: Tight fit through arms and body meant to be layered under other garments. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: Knits with lots of stretch (70% more are my favorite) cotton spandex, rayon spandex, and liverpool knit.

Cross my Heart Cami: Fitted through bust and a closefit through waist and hips. This is a medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Cotton spandex, rayon spandex, jerseys, poly blends, ity, brushed poly and ribbed knit all work well.

The Basic Tee: Fitted through bust and a semi-fit through waist and close at hips. This is a small/medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Jerseys, tri-blends, double brushed poly, rayon spandex, cotton spandex, poly blends, ity, ribbed knit, sweater knits all work well.

Essential Tank: Fitted through bust and a close semi-fit through waist and hips. This is a medium here.

Favorite Fabrics: Jerseys, rayon spandex, cotton spandex, poly blends, ity and ribbed knit all work well.

Women’s Henley: Fitted through bust and semi-fitted through waist and hips. (I don’t have many of these since it was drafted and released when I was pregnant 🙂 I made a medium here, but my bust and waist were bigger right after baby girl arrived!)

Favorite Fabrics: thermals, medium weight sweater knits, cotton jerseys, and rayon spandex.

Boyfriend V Neck: Semi-fitted through bust, waist and hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like to use a cotton jersey, interlock, medium weight sweater knit for a more fitted look. For a looser/slub feel I go for rayon spandex.

Slim Fit Raglan: Fitted at bust and arms, semi-fitted at waist and hips.

Favorite Fabrics: Medium weight sweater knit, rayon spandex blends, cotton spandex, stretch french terry, slub jersey.

Women’s Raglan: Loose fit through bust and waist, semi-fitted at hips- straight cut. Loose on arms. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: More stable knits like french terry, sweatshirt, fleece, interlock, and ponte roma.

(PS- I have a light pink undershirt under the lace one! I didn’t realize that was a mistake until after the pictures! lol)

Favorite Tee: this is fitted at bust and semi-fitted through waist and hip. The side vent hem can give you even more relaxed fit through hip.

Favorite Fabics: You have a pretty wide range of knits you can use on this shirt. I prefer a flowly, drapey knit for the curved hem option like rayon spandex, modal, poly jerseys, ITY. For the banded hem option I love something with a little more structure like a rayon french terry and poly jerseys. The side vent hem can use either of these and look great. For the dress length I prefer something more structured again like double brushed poly, cotton spandex, rayon french terry.

Sweet Tee: this is a slimmed dolman with very small “bat wings” under the arms. It is fitted at bust and semi-fitted through waist and hips.

Favorite Fabics: light to medium weight knits, although it has very small “bat wings” I still strongly prefer a soft drape for any dolman so that your “wings” aren’t puffy 😉 I used tissue jersey, slub jersey, light and medium weight sweater knits, and rayon spandex for my favorites.

Tulip Tee: this is a boxy, relaxed fit dolman. Semi-fitted at bust and hip, but a straighter cut through waist. Although it’s not straight, it is still very loose through waist. The plain option will feel and fit tighter at the waist and hip than the tulip option, which will naturally swing open for a looser feel.

Favorite Fabics: light to medium weight knits. I prefer a soft drape for any dolman so that your “wings” aren’t puffy 😉 I used mostly rayon/modal/ blends for mine personally. I love it in a soft sweater knit for fall/winter as well. You could use a slub knit, poly blend, triblend, ITY all as well.

Pumpkin Spice Dolman: oversized/loose fit through upper arms, bust and waist. Semi-fitted on hips. Tight fit on lower arms. (Medium in the navy/grey and Large in the others- I hit those measurements at the time of sewing/pictures :))

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabric with good drape for this one. Rayon spandex blends, sweater knits (both medium and lighter work), thinner slub jerseys, french terry with rayon in the blend, and ity.

Free Spirit Tank: Fitted at bust, drastic a-line out to give loose fit through waist and hips. (Size Medium)

Favorite Fabrics: I like fabric with good stretch and drape for this one. Rayon spandex blends, sweater knits and thinner slub jersey.

Sporty Piko: A very loose, straight cut from the short sleeve juncture. It is loose throughout the body with relaxed sleeves as well.

Favorite Fabrics: It really depends on the look you’re wanting for this one! I love a french terry for the hoodie options, but for an everyday tee it must have a very soft drape. You can use various fabrics depending on how boxy you want the shirt to appear- the more stable the fabric the boxier it will look worn.