Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Gala Gown :: Easy Hacks

It’s a Gala Hacks party! In true P4P fashion, our amazing blog team has some fun, easy hacks and mash ups ready for you.

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Gala – Sweetheart mash up

There’s no denying that the Gala Gown has all of the drama and beauty needed for all of those amazing times in our life. However, it can also be transformed into a fun little top with very little effort! I used the bodice of the Gala Gown for this look, however I paired it with the peplum skirt option from the Sweetheart Dress. 

To create this look, cut and assemble your bodice from the Gala Gown as directed in the tutorial. You will then want to use the peplum skirt option from the Sweetheart Dress. Mark the quarter points on both the bodice and the skirt. Slip the skirt over the bodice, right sides together, and match quarter points. Attach using a ½” SA. Finish your peplum by hemming and you’re all done!
~ Erinn

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Gala – Pencil Skirt mash up

Loving the new Gala top but looking for something a little more form-fitted through the hips?  I’m going to take you through a super quick and easy mash with the Freebie Pirate Pencil Skirt that’ll give you a totally different look. Go ahead and grab your Gala Bodice Lining and your Pencil Skirt Pattern (high rise height) pieces.  You’ll want to make sure the bodice bottom is close to the same width as your pencil skirt top for mashing (based on your sizing it should be).  You may have to grade your pencil skirt pieces slightly to match the Gala Bodice.  I did this through the added waistband height.

Next, you’ll need need to add the Pencil Skirt band height to your pencil skirt pattern.  You’ll take the given band height and divide it by 2 and then add that to the top of your pattern pieces.  For example- the band height on mine called for 5 inches so I added 2.5 to my pattern piece ( since the band is folded in half for the actual skirt height).  This is what you’ll cut for the bottom of your dress.

Now, sew your bodice as directed in the pattern and the side seams of your pencil skirt.   You’ll end up with two separate pieces that look like the photo below.

Finish your dress by sewing your bodice to your skirt piece just like you would if you were sewing the standard Gala skirt and you’re done!  Totally new look- perfect for New Years’ Eve fun!

 

Happy Sewing and Cheers,

Michelle

 

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Gala – Boundless mash up

It’s no secret that the Boundless dress is one of my favorite P4P dresses so it was only natural that I would mash the Gala Gown bodice with the Boundless skirt. This is a super easy hack.

All you have to do is cut the Gala Gown bodice and sleeves and the Boundless skirt. I used bamboo knit for my whole dress but if you used stable knits for the top, I encourage you to use fabric with great drape for the skirt.

Sew the top and the skirt as instructed in the patterns. You will be adding the skirt as in the Boundless tutorial, using elastic to stabilize the waist.

Hack: I used the width of the fabric and stitched the skirt in a loop. I marked the sides and front of my skirt and attached it to the bodice with the seam in the back. 

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Ribbon Belt

I see a lot of posts wanting something to really highlight the waist when wearing a dress, but if you’re wearing a more formal dress you might not have a belt that goes! A ribbon belt can be very elegant and simple to create to give yourself a little more definition or attention to your waistline.  You can grab any ribbon style you’re drawn to that coordinates with your dress and attach whatever embellishment you find that makes your heart sing!

Some ideas would be appliques, belt buckles, brooches, fabric flowers, hair-clips, bows, etc.  I picked up satin ribbon and some great velvet ribbon as well.

To create it you just need to cut your ribbon as long as you’d like- so the waist measurement plus enough to tie a bow and however long you want  your tails.  I like to have my tails go to almost the very bottom of my hem personally, but that’s just personal preference.  Make sure you finish the edges if you pick a ribbon that frays.  Satin ribbon I prefer to heat seal with a flame.

Find the center of your cut ribbon and attach your embellishment with hand stitching.

There! You now have a beautiful belt that will look stunning on your more formal dresses! It’s quick and simple for such a fabulous add on and the possibilities are endless!

 

Here a a few modeled with the Gala Gown.

Judy

Which hack will you make first? Don’t forget to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group so we can all admire them too.

So Classic Sundress Hacks

The So Classic Sundress has released so grab your favorite wovens and sew yourself or your little ones a pretty dress. In true P4P fashion we have gathered some easy hacks that you can make to the So Classic Sundress that will give you even more options than the many included in the pattern.

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Gathered Thick Straps

The first hack we have for you is a gathered strap. If you would like a little more shoulder coverage or just want a fun new option, this hack is for you. Cut your dress as per the pattern instruction and simply cut the straps wider. For youth 3M to 4 you will be cutting the straps 7″ wide by the length given in the pattern. For 5 to 14, your straps will be 8″ by the length. If you are making this hack for the women’s dress then your new width will be 8″ (XXS-S), 9″ (M-XXL) and 10″ (1x-3x). The length will be the one listed in the tutorial.

Fold the straps lengthwise, right sides together and stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim the SA to 1/4″, press open and turn the straps inside out. Press and optionally top stitch.

Sew two gathering stitches at the top and bottom of the straps. One should be about 1/4″ away from the raw edge and the other 5/8″ away.

Pull the gathering stitches so the  straps are 3/4″ wide for sizes 3m to 4. Your finished gathered straps will be 1″ ( for 5-12 and xxs – xs), 1.25″ (m – xxl) and 1.5″ (1x-3x).

Repeat this step for all raw edges of the straps.

Continue sewing the dress as shown in the tutorial. Tadah! you have a brand new option added to the So Classic Sundress repertoire.

 

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Skirt

For this hack, we’re going to do something that we love to do to our dresses- create separates. In this case, we’re creating a classic style woven skirt using the bottom portion of your So Classic Sweetheart dress. This is a great hack for everyday wear or more professional look as well.

To begin, you will want to decide which version of the skirt you would like, plain front or button up, along with length. Once you’ve decided, you will want to cut out your skirt pieces as given in the tutorial chart. The only change you will need to make is to your waistband. You will want to double the length when cutting it out.

To assemble the waistband, begin by stitching your waistband pieces together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

If you are making the button placket, you will now have a long waistband piece, that is constructed in the following order: front waistband, back waistband, front waistband. If you are making the plain front, you should have a tube. Trim seams and press open.

Fold waistband in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. If desired, you can top stitch 1/8″ from top of waistband. Baste only your back waistband piece together.

Cut your piece of elastic to the appropriate length given in the tutorial chart. Using a safety pin or other tool, pull your elastic through the back waistband casing.

You will now stitch in the ditch at the waistband seams to hold elastic in place.

Your waistband is now ready to be attached to the skirt! Follow the directions as given in the tutorial and begin to enjoy that gorgeous skirt you just created!

~ Nicole and Erinn

(Nicole is wearing the button placket skirt and Erinn is wearing the plain front version)

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Ties Straps

I’m here to show you a super simple tie strap hack! This hack is great for tiny babies who are more difficult to get dressed, a grow with me length of strap that is super quick and easy, a way to get the perfect strap length every time, and of course, just another adorable detail to change the look up a bit.

Start by cutting 4 halter straps rather than just 2.

Follow the tutorial to finish the straps just as the halter straps are finished.

For placement use the suggested placement for the regular/traditional straps.

Finish constructing bodice and dress just as the tutorial instructs.

Enjoy the adorable bows on the shoulders!

Judy

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Simple Belt

 

While browsing Pinterest I saw a dress very similar to the So Classic Sundress that featured a real belt instead of a waistband so I knew I had to make a simple one and show you how to make your own belts.

Start by gathering your supplies. You will need fabric, any woven fabric will work, belt hardware (that I actually upcycled from an old one) and grommets.

Cut a strip of fabric 4 inches wide by 50-60″ long depending on the size you’re making.

Fold the fabric lengthwise with the right sides together and sew around the raw edge leaving a 2-3″ opening. Turn the belt with the right side out, topstitch around the edges so you close the opening and give it sturdiness.

Using a fabric marker or chalk, draw a 3/4″ line about 1.5″ away from the edge. This will be your buttonhole marking.

Sew a buttonhole using your buttonhole attachment. If you need a refresher on buttons and button holes check out the P4P University blog here.

Add the belt hardware as shown in the pictures below and sew in place. Optionally you can slide one additional metal belt loop on the belt.

Take the other side of the belt and mark your grommets positions. Make sure that you add your grommets to the right side of the belt so it matches the other end. I like mine spaced 2″ apart. Try the belt on to see if you need to add any additional grommets.

There you have it! You made your very own belt. Now think about all the fabric possibilities! 🙂

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Bow front

 

Adding a bow can be another way to add a pop of color or a cute detail to your dress. We’ve shown it here for the girls, but you could easily add this to the women’s as well using the same methods.

You will want to begin by cutting your rectangular bow pieces. You will need two rectangles. To determine the width, follow the graphic below (this is just a guide, you can make your bow wider or narrower, based on preference). For the length, you will want to make sure that it is wide enough to tie and fit across the bodice piece. It’s ok if it is too long, as you can always trim it down later.

Taking one of your rectangles, fold it in half with right sides together. Stitch, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat with other bow. Next, cut a “v” notch from the top of each piece, as shown below. Press seam allowance open.

Holding the bow slightly open, it should create a tube. You will want to align the stitched edge with the opposite side now, to create the curved edges of your bows (the seam should now be in the middle rather than the edge). Stitch around the curve, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat on other bow.

Trim along the curve’s seam allowance using either pinking sheers or scissors.
* If using scissors, make small cuts into the seam allowance, making sure to not cut through stitches. This will help your curve to lay smoother.

Using your favorite turning tool, turn bows inside out, smoothing out the edges and press. Top stitch if desired.

Taking your center bodice piece, position each bow and baste into place (make sure to leave enough length to tie the bow, as shown in the next step!). Trim any excess length. Attach side pieces as directed in tutorial.

You now have two options- You can either tie the bow in a simple knot, like this. 

Or, another option is to create a center tie to hold the bows together. If using this method, you will not need as much length when you baste your bows.

You will want to begin by creating a small tube. Cut a rectangular piece 2″ width and approximately 6″ long. Fold in half, right sides together, and stitch using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seam allowance open and turn tube right sides out. Press, making sure that the seam is in the middle back of the tie.

Overlap your bows and wrap the center piece around them.

Stitch across the center piece to create a loop (as shown where pin is placed above). Trim any extra length that you might have and rotate the seam to behind the bow. Finish dress as per tutorial.

~ Erinn

Piping

If you know me you know I’m a huge piping fan, store bought piping that is. If I can add it to a dress I will, so it is only normal that I added it to the So Classic Sundress.

After cutting your pattern pieces as instructed you will add the piping to the desired seams. I love it at the princess seams and the sweetheart neckline. You could add piping to the straps, the waistband and even the bottom hem if you’d like. I would not recommend adding piping to the back as piping doesn’t look nice gathered.

Sew the piping to the center princess seams using a zipper foot. Store bought piping are smaller than the 1/2″ SA included in the pattern so place it a little bit away from the edge.

Sew the princess seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Take the front of the bodice and pin in place the piping at the raw edge. Start 1/2″ away from the side seam and stop 1/2″ away for the other side seam as shown below.

Sew in place and continue the dress construction as per the tutorial.

Such a fun detail and so easy to add!

 

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No Waistband

 

You might have noticed above that I skipped the waistband piece on the bodice. This is such an easy hack. All you have to do is use the lining pieces as the main piece. So you will be cutting two front linings (one in the main fabric and one in the lining), four front side linings (2 sets of mirrored pieces with the lining fabric and two with the main fabric) and two back lining pieces (one in the lining and one in the main fabric).

You can make this hack for all straps options and for both women and girls. 🙂

 

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Shirred back

The So Classic Sundress feature elastic casing at the back bodice but if you or your little one prefer the feel of shirring or would just like an extra option you can do that so easily. Construct the bodice as shown in the pattern and skip cutting the elastic pieces. and creating the casings and replace with shirring.

All you have left to do now is shirr the back using elastic thread. Follow the tips in the Shirring 101 blog we have for you as part of our P4P University. Easy peasy!

 

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Adjustable Straps

The pattern includes standard or suggested strap lengths, but some may prefer to have adjustable straps.  I adjusted the width of my straps to do spaghetti style and used “lingerie” sliders from Joann Fabrics.  There are wider width sliders and rings available from various shops (such as Bra-Makers Supply) if you prefer to keep a wider strap to cover your bra straps.

Cut 2 longer straps (these will be the adjustable section ) and then 2 short straps (this will be attached to the back portion of the bodice).

My straps were 1.75″ x 28″ (the length of the halter straps in the pattern).  In retrospect I think adding about 8″ to the shoulder strap lengths in the pattern would be sufficient enough.  My sliders ended up on top of my shoulders and I really didn’t need all that extra length.  The short strap is 1.75″ x 3″.

Fold each strap in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch.  Trim and press seam allowances open.

Now you have a completed set of adjustable straps. Treat them as a single strap and attach to the bodice as shown in the tutorial.  The shorter strap side should be attached to the back bodice. I also chose to do a criss-cross, so instead of placing them parallel, cross them over to create an X when attaching them to the front and back bodice.

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Front Bodice Cut-Out

The So Classic Sundress is a classic, vintage style but with this slight modification, you can make it edgy and on trend. You can adjust the size of the cut-out to your preference but I used the empire and princess seam as a guide as to where to place mine.

Construction is slightly different and since we will be enclosing our front bodice in the waistband you will not use the lining pieces in the pattern.  Instead, cut out 2 (mirror image) of all the main front bodice, main back bodice and front and back waistband pieces.

Now we will move on to construct and attach the waistband and skirt.

Now that you have all these extra options, go sew some So Classic Dresses and don’t forget to show them off in the P4P group !

Alex, Nicole, Judy and Erinn

Wiggle Dress – easy hacks

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Separates

The full-length mermaid-esque dress is gorgeous, but maybe you want to pair it with a different top or choose different fabrics?  With this simple hack, you can create a gorgeous set and wear them as separates.  For the skirt, cut along the crop cutline.  Stitch the center back seam and each side seam.  Using the cropped band measurement and instructions, attach to the top edge of the skirt.  Easy peasy!

How cute is Katy in this Ariel inspired Haloween outfit!

And seriously, how amazing is this sequin skirt!!

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Color-Block Bodice

Keeping with the concept of separates, but perhaps you still wanted a dress. Doing a color-block bodice gives you a chance to mix up your fabrics. Since there is already a crop cutline on the pattern pieces that hits at the natural waist, we will be using that as a guideline. Re-trace the crop cutline 1/2″ above and below it to create your seam allowance on both the front and back pattern pieces.  Cut your new top bodice and bottom skirt from both front and back.  For the back, you will have 2 back top bodices (mirror image) and 2 back bottom skirt (mirror image) pieces.  For assembly, with right sides together, stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance the front bodice to the front skirt. Repeat for both back bodice and skirt pieces.  Continue construction as provided int he pattern. 🙂

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Decorative Button Back

Adding embellishments to your dress can give it some extra special details that will set it apart from the next.  Since the pattern is drafted for stable knits, you do not need a zipper or functional buttons to put it on, so these buttons are purely for decorative reasons.  I love the finishing touch it gives the back. Using the center back seam as a guideline, I hand stitched pearl buttons every 1/2″.  I used the zipper lengths as mentioned in the tutorial as a guide where to end my button placement.  For this version, I used a total of 13 buttons. ”

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Straps for off the shoulder

Love the off the shoulder but hate wearing strapless bras? No problem! Let’s add some cute straps to the Wiggle off the shoulder dress that will cover your bra straps. Print the off the shoulder option of the pattern and sew it up as per the pattern tutorial. Stop at the neckline finishing steps. Cut two pieces of fabric 4″x 9.5″. These will be your straps. The length of your straps may vary slightly based on the size you make.

Fold the straps lengthwise and sew them side with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn the straps inside out and press them with the seam in the center.

For perfect straps placement, try the dress on with your favorite bra. Mark with a pin or a clip where the bra straps will be.

Sew the straps to the dress with the right sides together. Finish the neckline as per the pattern tutorial.

That’s all! You now have yet a new style of the new Wiggle dress!

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Sleeveless

The Wiggle Dress is already packed with soo many options and great for every season but I don’t know about anyone else but summer here is HOT!! I can not handle any type of sleeves at all so a sleeveless version of the Wiggle dress would be what I would want for summer and lucky for me it is a really quick and easy hack.  Let’s get started.

First, you are going to cut all your pieces except for your sleeves.  You do not need to modify the armscye at all for this hack so just cut your front and back as usual.  Sew the shoulder seams and side seams as directed in the pattern, but skip the section for adding a sleeve.   Next, you will iron and pin your armscye to the wrong side 1/2″ inch as shown below. Topstitch using your favorite stretch stitch.

 

Now just finish up the dress or top as instructed in the pattern and you’re done. Quick, right!?

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Full Zipper Back

As soon as I saw the Wiggle dress I knew I had to make a full zipper back! So I took it up a notch and bought a dual zipper. This style zipper opens at the top and bottom. You can add this zipper to the high back, low back or even the off the shoulder option as well as the above, bellow or midi length. Just make sure the zipper you use is long enough! As a point of reference, I used a 48″ zipper for the high back, midi length style.

Start by marking the hem on the center back seam.

Add a strip of 1/4″ Wonder Tape to the center back seam, 1.4″ away from the edge. Start at the point you marked above and stop 1/2″ away from the top.

Repeat with the other back piece.

Remove the paper backing of the Wonder tape and adhere the zipper right sides together. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Zip up the zipper and place the other side of the back piece, right sides together, making sure that the bottom and top match.

Sew in place and top stitch.

Now that you have your back piece ready, sew the dress as per the tutorial. You will be enclosing the zipper in the bottom hem as shown below.

All done! Now all you have to decide is where the next date night will be! 🙂

 

I loved the idea of a full-length zipper like Alex showed us above, but when it came to finding one locally, I wasn’t able to get one the length I needed.  I did find a chunky zipper that would be perfect to use as an exposed zipper and just so happened to work out that it’s finished length was about knee length.  I opted to go with the midi length and do a split hem at the center back.  You will install your zipper the same as you would in the tutorial, except place it on the RIGHT side of the fabric with the wrong side of the zipper centered along the back seam.

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Lace Applique

I’ll be honest, Judy created this dress while we were pre-testing and I had to replicate it.  Adding a lace applique is super easy but adds a super sexy and classic flair.  For this particular version, the lace extends along the entire side seam, so I constructed my bodice first, added the lace to the top, then sewed my sleeves on so that the lace was enclosed in the armscye.  You can, of course, add lace wherever you’d prefer, such as the neckline or bottom hem but I love the silhouette the wide stripe gave from the front and back.   I used a fairly narrow zig-zag stitch down the center seam and along each edge of the stretch lace trim.  Be sure to keep your lace taut as you sew along the waist and hip curves.

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Front Leg Slit

What sexy dress doesn’t include a slit!  Show off those legs and add a front slit to your wiggle.

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Sweetheart/Wiggle Mash

We couldn’t end this epic hacks series without a Wiggle dress/Sweetheart mash up. I just had to make myself a black velvet and lace long dress. We all need one in our closets, right?

This mash is super easy. Simply take the front patterns of the wiggle dress and mark the sweetheart color-block lines using the Sweetheart dress top pattern piece. Don’t forget to add the seam allowance!

Sew the two front pieces (lace and velvet) as suggested in the Sweetheart pattern.

Once you do that simply follow the directions in the Wiggle Dress pattern to finish your dress. I used lace for my sleeves too. Since I didn’t have any black elastic and I certainly couldn’t use white elastic for the neckline, I used clear elastic instead. It worked like a charm!

Tadah! Just by adding a sexy sweetheart color block front, you took your Wiggle dress up a notch!

Holy Moly…. I think we covered just about every hack we could come up with to take The Wiggle Dress to the next level (if it wasn’t already on its own)!  Make a Wiggle? Hop on over to the Facebook Group, and share your makes, we’d love to see it!

Sweetheart SAL: Recap

Holy potatoes you guys!  For our first Sew-A-Long, this was an amazing way to make it happen.  Last week was an absolute blast and we’d like to thank you for hanging with us the entire time.  There were so many remarkable dresses and peplums sewn in the last week…I can’t even handle it.

If you’d like to look back on the Sweetheart + Me Hearties dresses and peplums that were sewn and shared, go check out the album HERE.

Now let’s talk about the friendly little competition we were having.  We had our gorgeous gals put their finished items into the album on Facebook and let the rest of the P4P family vote (with “likes”).  Here are the three lucky gals that are walking away with some new P4P patterns!  Congratulations ladies!

Fan Favorite: Molly Wynne Stonesifer

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Admin Pick: Brianna K. Karle

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Random Draw (but also incredibly gorgeous dress!): Heidi Hilmerson

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I hope you all had as much fun, and got as much out of it, as we did.  Now go rock those circle skirts all over town!
Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL Day 5: Skirt + Hemming

This is it!  Your dress is almost finished!  Today we are attaching the skirt to the bodice and hemming it.  So excited!

floral

Since there is no gathering involved in the skirt portion, it is super easy and fast to attach the skirt.  But because it’s a circle skirt, the bottom hem is vast…yet totally manageable.   Here are some hem options that we like!

Hem option #1: Traditional Hem

For this, you simply fold the fabric up 1/2″ toward the wrong side, press, then fold another 1/2″ and topstitch.  I like to run the serger around the edge of the fabric first, so there’s more of a solid edge to work with while folding.  But it’s not necessary.

hem1

Hem option #2: Bind/Use Trim

Just like you did for the arm and neck openings, you can use knit binding, FOE, trim, or even a lace.  Make sure you aren’t stretching your bindings at all.  And be aware that this will make your length 1 inch longer.  (The circumference lengths are already included in the pattern, to make it even easier on you!)

hem2

If using a trim, simply stitch your trim to the skirt edge, right sides together.  Flip the trim down and topstitch.

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Hem option #3: Coverstitch

This gives you a more professional finish on your hems, but requires a coverstitch machine.  (If you don’t have a coverstitch machine, you can simulate this look by serging the edge of your fabric, folding your fabric up 1/2 inch, and sewing with a double needle.)

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Hem option #4: DON’T HEM!

Sound too good to be true?  Perhaps.  But in some cases, it just makes sense to leave the edges raw.
I totally left this new dress of mine with a raw edge on the skirt and I loved it.  So much so that it called for a one-woman dance party.

sweetheart finished dance

**Hem tape is HUGELY helpful.  With all versions of hemming, really.  Some prefer a wash-away tape (like THIS), while others like to use a different type of stabilizer (like THIS).

YOU GUYS!  We did it!  You made it to the end and have finished a new, amazing, custom-fit, piece of clothing.  We are so proud of you!  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  And don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing with us!  Come back tomorrow to catch the linkup/contest for your completed Sweetheart or Me Hearties outfit.  It’s going to be so amazing to see what you’ve made!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves

So.  You’ve printed your pattern, figured out your size, and now cut your fabric.  What’s next?

Let’s get to sewing!  Today is about the top half of your pattern.  We are going to stitch your bodice together.  And we’ve got a trick to get a lower neckline (if that’s what you’re wanting in your pattern) as well as a sleeveless option for the Me Hearties pattern.  Let’s get to it!

floral

There are a ton of options for the bodice part of the Sweetheart/Me Hearties dresses.  You can colorblock, do an overlay, choose your sleeve lengths, use FOE (fold over elastic)/trim/t-shirt neckband bindings, etc.  Pick your poison when it comes to how you want to style your dress.  The sky is the limit!

But let’s say that you wanted a lower neckline than what the pattern calls for.  Can we do it?  YES WE CAN!

I have a larger than average bust and tend to like a lower neckline on my shirts.  Luckily, when you sew for yourself, this is super simple to do.  Cut your front bodice piece out and determine where you’d like the neckline to sit.

**Keep in consideration your neckline finishing.  For this particular top, I used a standard tshirt binding for the neck.  But using FOE or trim will give you a wider neckline opening.  So just make your adjustments according to your final vision for your top/dress.

P4P SAL-003 copy

Because we are adjusting the actual size of the opening, we will need to figure out new measurements for the neckband.  Once your front and back bodices are pieces are sewn together at the shoulder, fold your piece out flat at the neckline.  Without stretching your fabric, lay it flat and measure the opening.  Multiply that number by 2.  This is your new neckline circumference.

P4P SAL-005 copy

But what is your new neckband/FOE length requirements?
Neckline circumference X .85 + 1″ (for seam allowance) = Neckband/FOE length

Use your new length and finish the neckline however you’d like!

Sweetheart SAL-024

~SLEEVELESS AND OPTIONAL NECKLINE AND ARMHOLE FINISHING METHODS~

The girls Me Hearties does not have a tank option in the pattern but we are going to show you how to hack it… two ways!  You can also apply these methods to the Sweetheart if you want a wider sleeveless option as well.

For both methods, you will calculate the bands the same.  For consistency and as shown in the pattern, I did the bands in the flat.   You can do it in the round if you prefer but will need to adjust your band measurements to include a seam allowance (like the neckband measurement shown above).  If using the Trim Method, trim your pattern pieces first, then calculate your armbands.

How to calculate armband measurements: Sew one shoulder seam with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Measure the armscye (as shown below) and multiply by .85.

Me Hearties PDF Pattern measure armscye

TRIM METHOD:  For this method, you will use your existing pattern pieces for the bodice (either the full front and back bodice or the top front and back of the color-block) and trim 1/2″ off each armscye.  Proceed with the instructions in your pattern  and use your favorite method to finish the neckline and armholes. (FOE, traditional knit binding, or lingerie elastic)

Me Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless option

HIDDEN SEAM TURNED FACING ARMBANDS:armbands

(I also used the same method on my neckline.  Note: This will lower your neckline by 1/2″)

Me Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless option                                   armbands3

Me Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless optionMe Hearties PDF pattern sleeveless option

 

 

ay 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL Day 3: Cutting Fabric

Welcome back!  So far, we’ve learned how to pick the perfect fabrics and get the perfect fit.  And today, we are diving right in and cutting into your beautiful fabrics.  And we are also going to be sharing TWO new options for the skirt portion.  So before you cut, maybe you’ll want to consider these “hacks” as well!

Let’s get started!

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The circle skirt is the trickiest part of the pattern to cut.  But once you realize how to fold your fabric for cutting, it is actually pretty easy!  The pattern includes a full circle skirt and has the option to cut with a pattern piece, or to save on some paper and just cut with a small guide and your own measurement.

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I prefer to cut my own circle skirt length, by just using the cut out piece provided.  It gives me full control of the length I really want.  But it is purely preference in this case.  When you are using the cut out, make sure you’re measuring from the end of the circle you’d cut out…and not from the corner of your folded fabric.  Otherwise your length will be off by several inches.  (Ask me how I know this.)

We wanted to provide a couple of fun alternates for your circle skirts.  So before you cut into your fabric, consider these alternatives!

Alternate #1: Full Circle Skirt with Waistband.

You can take the skirt portion of the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns, skip the bodice, and add a waistband.  And it’s super easy to do!  We are providing you with measurements for a yoga-style waistband…no elastic required.

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Alternate #2: High-Low Skirt

Getting a higher cut in the front, and lower dip in the back of a circle skirt is SO EASY.  It’s as simple as moving the waist cut-out to a different place on the skirt itself.  Three steps and you’ll have a fishtail-esque skirt!  (This would also work well with the skirt-only adjustment that we explained above. ^^^)

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1.) Open up your skirt so you’re seeing a folded semi-circle.  Slide the very top layer until it’s the length that you want for the front of your skirt (be sure to take into account the waist cutout!).  Sturdier fabrics are way easier to handle with this process.  My skirt above was a slinky rayon blend and it took a lot of patience to get into place.  So go slow.  Make sure everything is flat and even before you make your cut!

2.) Carefully, fold your skirt in half again, so that it is quartered.  You will be back to four layers of fabric, just like when you were originally cutting the circle.  Take your waist cut-out piece and cut your opening.

3.) Open up your skirt.  You should now see a large circle with a smaller waist circle cut out, somewhere off center.  Your high-low skirt is now ready to attach to the bodice!

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Is your fabric all prepped, cut and ready for tomorrow’s next step?
Show us your pretty stack of fabrics, just begging to be sewn into something amazing!  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  And don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We are having a blast sewing with you this week!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL Day 2: Printing + Measuring

Welcome back to the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long.  Let’s get Day #2 started!

Today is all about printing and assembling your pattern.  And measuring yourself correctly, so we make sure to get the best fit.

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Patterns for Pirates patterns have lots of little extras for you.  First, the newest files are set up with a “layers” feature.  You can read all about how to access the layers HERE.

And on top of that, they are “no-trim” pages.  And that’s exactly what it sounds like!  The pages are set up to print and be taped/glued together without needing to get scissors out and trim the edges before assembly.  It makes this step of the process even quicker.  Need help assembling the no-trim pages?  No problem!  Judy created this fabulous video for us.  Go check it out HERE. (You have to be a member of the P4P Facebook group to be able to see the video.)

Before you hit print, BE SURE that your pages are set to print at 100%, no scaling.  We still recommend printing only the first page and measuring your 1″ x 1″ (or 4cm x 4cm) square to verify the print size is correct before printing the entire pattern.  Even if your square is off by the teeniest amount, the entire pattern will be affected and your dress will not fit.  Save yourself some ink and paper (and fabric!) and verify the settings first.

Patterns for Pirates how to print layered pdf sewing patterns using adobe (4)

Now let’s talk measuring yourself!

Judy created an entire post dedicated to measurements and how to properly measure yourself.  You can see the full post HERE.  However, since the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns have a full circle skirt, which makes it very forgiving in the hips, the most important fit aspect of this pattern is the bodice.

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Full Bust: Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust.  You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

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Over Bust: This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

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Under Bust: This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

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Waist: This is your natural waistline.  Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants).  It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section.  If you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section.  Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on  your smallest part.

This is your natural waist :)

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Side Waist Length: Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist.  This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist. (Ahem, Sweetheart Dress!) Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit.  If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage. 😉

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Start with your arms DOWN. You want your tape to start where your crease naturally lies— not all the up to your arm.  Think where you’d like your shirt to be (if it’s all the way up as tight as possible then it is uncomfortable and you can’t move your arms around).

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

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What if you’re taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted for?

The Sweetheart dress was designed for the average “side waist length” of 8 inches.  If you measure more or less than that, it’s incredibly important to adjust your pattern to fit your body properly.

We recommend to adjust differently, based upon your bust size.  If you have a smaller/larger bust than the pattern is drafted for, make your height adjustments at the bust line.  If your bust measurements are the same, add or remove the length below your bust line.

What if your measurements don’t fall within one size?

That is why you’re sewing for yourself, isn’t it?  To get the perfect fit?  Well then let’s get that perfect fit!

Let’s say your measurements fall in a “medium” bust and a “large” waist.  Cut the pattern out, by grading between the two sizes.  Before cutting, simply draw a line on your paper pattern, blending the sizes at a midpoint. You want your line as smooth as possible between to the two sizes.

 

grading sizes

WHEW!  Did you soak in all of that information?
Hopefully now, your pattern is printed, taped/glued together, you have properly measured for your size, cut the pattern pieces out and are ready to start cutting into your pretty fabrics tomorrow.  If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  Don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page either: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL: Day 1 – Fabric Selection

Welcome to Day 1 of the P4P Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long!  We are so glad you’re here.

Today, we are talking fabric.  Let’s be honest, if you’re here, fabric is probably your favorite thing to talk about already.  So this is going to be a fun topic.  Let’s get started!

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Fabric choice can really make or break a garment.  Not just the color or pattern, but the kind of fabric you use.

There are so many fabrics out there that you can get lost in the different options.  What helps is to familiarize yourself with how the fabric will look once it’s on you (how it will drape and fit).  Feeling fabric for the amount of stretch, thickness, and drape will help you pair it with the right pattern.

So what is the right fabric for the Sweetheart pattern?

We highly recommend a more stable knit.  Ponte de roma, jegging, scuba, liverpool, and thicker cotton lycras are fabulous for this pattern, specifically because of the circle skirt.  Fabrics with a higher drape will still work, but beware that the skirt could end up being a bit more clingy that you were hoping.

For the overlays and colorblocked top pieces, feel free to use any of the above listed fabrics, as well as stretch lace, mesh knits, rayon blends, etc.

Ponte de Roma: (or ponte, ponte roma, ponte di roma, etc) This fabric is a double knit in construction, and tends to look the same on both sides.  It’s a sturdy knit, generally with a horizontal stretch only, although can sometimes also be found with a vertical stretch.  It’s made up of poly, rayon and spandex blend (the more rayon the softer the feel).  It can pill easily, but if you hang dry should last you with normal wear.  The rayon gives it a good drape still, see how the skirt falls towards the body.

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Jegging: Typically thought to be used for skinny pants and other bottoms, jegging is a medium-weight stretch fabric.  You can also find it labeled “denim knit” in some shops. Often, it has a denim-style look (think blues and blacks) and is meant to mimic jeans while keeping the comfort of stretch fabric.  It has some vertical stretch.  Weight of jegging knit can vary widely, so if you’re using it for the sweetheart you want to keep it a bit thicker.

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Scuba: A highly structured, one sided fabric, made of neoprene (with a sleek surface, much like a scuba outfit).  Typically only has a horizontal stretch and is easy to sew with, however isn’t the most breathable fabric.  These types of knits have a great stretch and recovery, like ponte does, but doesn’t have as soft of a drape. Your skirt will stick out a bit more away from your body.

Other fabrics that are very similar are liverpool, true neoprene and techno.  They will all feel, stretch and drape about the same.

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Fukuro: Soft to the touch with a nice stretch. The face of fabric has texture to it while the back has a smooth finish.  It is a more structured knit and skirt will again stick out away from body more.

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Cotton Lycra: This semi-opaque knit has a soft hand. Most commonly has both horizontal and vertical stretch. The word “lycra” is a brand/trademark of spandex. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement, and shape retention that won’t wash away.  Depending on weight you may feel a bit more “revealed” in cotton lycra on the top half, because it isn’t as thick as those listed above.  Your skirt will have moderate drape towards the body.  The vertical stretch could cause your bodice to pull slightly longer with the weight of the skirt pulling it down. (It was very windy, so the dress is being blown under my booty by the wind! It is not the fabric draping under there naturally!)

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You can choose a fabric with a softer drape, like ITY, poly blends, rayon spandex, etc. But they will drape down towards your body.  Your skirt will hang on your body instead or stick out away from it.  We still recommend one that has good weight for the bodice to hold shape well and since it is fitted to help not show lumps,bumps,bra lines, etc.

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Now that you’ve chosen your fabrics, share them with us!  Tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram.  And be sure to post your fabric picks in our event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us!  We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart + Me Hearties SAL: Get Ready!

Get excited.  Why?  Because Patterns for Pirates is having our first Sew-A-Long!  Our timing couldn’t be more perfect for Easter sewing either…because it’s for the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Dresses!  Eep!

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The SAL (sew-a-long) begins on Monday, but that doesn’t mean you can’t start planning it all out ahead of time.  Because these are full circle skirts, they do take a bit more fabric than a basic tee/dress would…so start digging through your stash or head out to your local fabric shop to make sure you have enough to make your perfect dress (or peplum).

sweetheart dress peplum pdf sewing patterns for pirates (25)listing pictures

And don’t forget to join us in the Event Page for the Sew-A-Long on Facebook: HERE.
The SAL itself will be on this very blog, but we will be extending the party over to the group and event on Facebook for even more interactive fun!

And before we go…here is the schedule, so you know what to expect from us.  We will even be throwing in some new tricks and pattern hacks, so you can get even more out of these adorable patterns.  Can’t wait!!

 

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