P4P University- Adjusting a Top Pattern for Height
P4P University- Adjusting a Top Pattern for Height
Today’s P4P University is all about adjusting a top pattern for height. We will take a look about the best practices for adjusting a pattern’s length, and how to create the best fit for your height.
Patterns for Pirates patterns are drafted for average height. That means in women’s patterns, they’re drafted for someone with the height of 5’5″. In this post, we will show you how to subtract or add length to a women’s top pattern to create the perfect fit.
DECIDING HOW MUCH TO ADD OR SUBTRACT TO A TOP PATTERN
When adjusting for height in a top pattern, it can feel a little daunting deciding how much to adjust by. But really, it’s just a little simple math. As a general rule of thumb, in women’s top patterns, you will want to add or subtract .5 inch for every inch you are off of the base of 5’5″. In our example today, we are making a Favorite Tee for someone measuring at a size XS, and is 5’1″. To determine how much length to subtract from the pattern, we simply find the difference between 5’5″ and 5’1″. That difference is 4 inches total. Now, keeping in mind our rule of thumb that for every inch difference in the wearer’s height from 5’5″, we take away .5 inches from the pattern, we will multiply 4 times .5 to get a total of 2 inches subtracted total.
Here it is written out:
5″5″-5’1″= 4″
4″ x .5 = 2″ subtracted from the pattern’s length
Conversely, if you are above the average 5’5″ the pattern is drafted for, you will find out how much to add to the pattern’s length by finding the difference in height, multiplying by .5 and ADDING it to the pattern’s length. It’s as simple as that!
WHERE TO SUBTRACT FROM/ ADD TO THE PATTERN
A common misconception is that one can simply add or subtract length to the bottom of a top to account for a difference in height. This is not usually the best course of action, as it can very often change the overall shape and intended fit of the garment. The most important thing to do is to spread the changes you make throughout the length of the bodice. This can be done to suit your preferences, but four good places to start are at armscye, just under the bust line, just under the waistline, and just above the bottom hemline.
Adding throughout the pattern like this helps to ensure that the bust, waist, and hip of the garment stay where they actually are on the wearer’s body. Patterns for Pirates uses a standard side waist length of 8″ and a waist to hip length of 8.25″, so if you know your specific length measurements between those points, you will want to add/remove the exact amount in those areas. For our purposes today, we are equally spreading our change in length throughout the pattern.
Take both your front and bodice pattern pieces, and mark with a line where you will be adding or subtracting length, such as we have, pictured below:
The next step is to cut the pattern pieces along those lines, so that these pieces can either be shortened or lengthened, depending on your fitting needs.
ADJUSTING THE TOP PATTERN PIECES TO EITHER LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN
In our example today, we will be subtracting length across the cuts in our pattern pieces to create the perfect fit for our wearer. Because we will taking away length in FOUR places (armscye, under the bustline, under the waistline, and just above the hemline) we will be dividing our total amount to be taken from the pattern’s length by 4.
2″ total needed to be taken from the pattern’s length
2″ divided by 4 = .5″
Therefore, we will be subtracting .5″ from the four different places in the pattern mentioned above. To do this, we will reposition our pattern pieces to overlap by .5″ each, and tape in place. Remember: you will want to do this to both the front and back bodice pieces of your top pattern.
If you are adding length to a pattern, you will want to spread your pattern pieces by the required measurement to create more length. When you are done re-taping, you will have two new bodice pieces adjusted for your height!
SEW UP YOUR TOP AS USUAL
Now that we’ve adjusted the front and back bodice pieces of our top, we can go ahead and sew as usual. Using your newly adjusted pattern pieces, cut your fabric and sew away.
And it’s as simple as that! Keep in mind that every body is different, and it may take a little practice to get the perfect fit when adjusting for height in a top. But with these simple beginning steps and general rules of thumb, we hope that you can adjust your patterns easily to create that perfect fit every time!
Paperbag Pants + Skirt :: New Pattern Release!
Guess what day it is?? It’s pattern release day!!! And we’ve got a doozy of a pattern to tell you all about. It checks off SO MANY requests that we’ve had come in over the last few years.
Let’s talk all about the new Paperbag Pants + Skirt patterns, in both youth and adult sizes!!
You will have so much fun sewing up these simple bottoms with the adorable paperbag ruffle top! They’re on trend and comfortable with an elastic waistband. They’re perfect for woven fabrics with no stretch, stretch wovens or even a stable knit. The ruffle along the top of the waistband is adorable and fun to wear year round paired with a tank or a cardigan. You can pink the perfect length shorts from 3″ or 5″ inseams. The above ankle capri pant is an adorable more fitted pant you can easily dress up or down with different tops and shoes. You can go short with a mini skirt or longer with a knee length.
Pair any of these options with adorable patch pockets big enough to fit your giant cell phone in comfortably! You can go all out and add belt loops and a tie belt to tie everything together as well!
*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.
The options include: Options include: 3″ or 5″ inseam shorts for adult/ shorts, 26″ capri pants, mini for adult/mid thigh skirt, knee skirt, patch pockets, belt loops and tie belt.
Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!
SKIRT LENGTHS (MINI + KNEE)
SHORTS (3″ INSEAM / 5″ INSEAM ADULT)
ABOVE ANKLE PANT LENGTH
PATCH POCKETS
BELT LOOPS + BELT
What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the Paperbag Pants + Skirt patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 19, 2021.
PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT | PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT – YOUTH | PAPERBAG PANTS + SKIRT – BUNDLE
Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!
Paperbag Pants + Skirt Album | Paperbag Pants + Skirt – Youth Album
If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Paperbag Pants + Skirt Easy Hacks post.
Paperbag Pants + Skirt :: Easy Hacks
…..
Drawstring
No elastic on hand, no problem you can still sew up your Paperbag pants, shorts or skirts and just add a drawstring instead! Lets get started!
All pieces will be the same with the exception of the belt, if you are wanting to make your own drawstring you will cut 2 belt pieces instead of 4 as we are not going to use the lining pieces. You can also used premade drawstring if you don’t want to make your own, you will just need to cut it the length of two belt pieces.
You are going to sew up your pants or skirt exactly as shown in the pattern until you get to your waist band. Take your front waistband piece, iron it lengthwise in half and mark the center front and both your seam allowances and casing. You will also want to mark two buttonholes on either side of your center front. I placed mine about 3/4 of a inch from the center front on both sides, centering them in the middle of the casing section. (the middle section) I would also recommend adding interfacing to the back of your fabric where you are planning on sewing your buttonholes to add some stability.
Next you will sew your buttonholes on your sewing machine, make sure you are only sewing them through the one layer of fabric on the front waistband where you have marked. Now you can finish your waistband as indicated in the pattern and attach it to your pants or skirt. Tip: instead of buttonholes you could add grommets for a different look.
If you are using premade drawstring you will just thread your drawstring through your buttonhole into the casing. If you are wanting to make a matching drawstring you will sew your two belt pieces together along the short ends just like the instructions state for the belt, finish the seam or trim with pinking sheers. Next fold the belt in half, long edges together and sew down the long edge with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance close to the seam but not through and turn your tube inside out to form your drawstring and press well. I just use a safety pin to turn my drawstring inside out but you can use whatever method you find easiest. If you would like you can topstitch the drawstring as well. You can also finish the ends or just knot the ends as I have done here. Insert your drawstring into your casing and you are done!
Angela
…..
Half ties
If you like the idea of a belt but are a bit short on fabric, or like me, constantly lose separate belts, then this hack will show you how to make a half-belt, sewn into the side seams of the new Paperbag Pants.
First of all you will cut out your pattern pieces as usual, except for the belt pieces. For the belt you will simply cut out 3 belt pieces, instead of 4; and only 2 belt loops, instead of 3.
Construct your trousers/shorts as per the tutorial until you come to the waistband and belt pieces. Then take your 3 belt pieces and sew the short sides together until you have one long piece. Fold it in half and cut to make 2 pieces, then take each of those 2 pieces and cut them in half until you have 4 pieces of even length.
You will have two pieces without a seam and 2 pieces that have a seam in the middle. Take one piece without a seam and one piece with a seam and sew them right sides together, starting from the short edge nearest the seam, up one long edge, across the top and back down the other long edge, leaving the bottom short edge open. Clip the corners and turn through. Press and top stitch.
Next, take your waistband pieces and lay the back piece out facing up, then measure ½” from the bottom edge and lay one of your waist ties on it, with the side that has the seam facing up. Lay the front waistband piece, facing down, on top of it. Pin/clip and sew down the short side of the waistband, sandwiching the waist tie in the centre. Repeat for the other side.
Fold the waistband wrong sides together and press. Sew your channel for the elastic, as instructed in the tutorial, being careful to move your waist ties out of the way as you come to the side seams so that you don’t catch them in the stitching.
Sew the waistband on as normal, the only difference is that you will only be using the front belt loops (2 in total), thread in your elastic, and you can finish off by tying your waist ties in a bow!
Enjoy your new garment and never have to worry about losing those waist ties again.
Happy Sewing!
Dana x
Protected: Fabric for Pirates :: July 2021 Reveal
Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 7
What a splashing fabulous week! Thank you so much for joining me in the Sunflower Swim Top sew along. We loved seeing you get ready for a P4P summer. It is time to announce the two winners, so without further ado….
Congratulations Melissa Powell! As our first winner, Melissa will receive a $20 Patterns for Pirates gift card and a $50 Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics one. I can’t wait to see those smiling faces sporting some OSP/P4P creations!
A big THANK YOU to Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics, our Sew Along sponsor, who also provided the swim fabrics for the videos.
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top
Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 6
Hello, pirates! We have made it to the last day of our sew along. Today we add the optional ruffle, hem the bottom and finish the back loops.
If you are not adding the ruffle, sew the elastic along the bottom (just like we did yesterday) with an stretch stitch. Fold 3/8” and hem. If you are adding the ruffle, start by gathering the strip of swim. For the closed back style, the ruffle will be one loop, for the open back it will a straight piece.
Remember to stitch the ruffle 3/4” away from the ends of the swim top bottom. You will add the elastic after you sew the ruffle on. If you opted for the closed back you have finished. For the open back, you need to fold each of the loops 3/4” towards the lining and stitch down. Thread the straps through the loops and tie knots at the end.
That’s it! You finished your beautiful swim tops! I whipped up a pair of coordinating Busy Bee swim bottoms to go with my Sunflower top. I absolutely love my Minnie Mouse inspired swimsuit.
Here is the last sew along video. Once you finish your Sunflower post a picture of your completed swim top in then comments of day 6 sew along album. Feel free to share your creations all over Facebook but don’t skip adding it to the day 6 check in photo, that’s where the the P4P team will pick the winners. We will announce them here on the blog on Tuesday.
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top
Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 5
Welcome to day 5 of our Sunflower Swim Top sew along. I reserved today to adding all elastics to the neckline, armcyce and back curves. Another easy day but a very important one. Do not skip sewing elastic in the seams of your swimsuits!
If you are sewing the closed back style, you will have a two elastics to sew, one in the neckline and another one in the armscye and along the top of the back. If you are creating the open back top you should have 1 elastic for then neckline, 2 form the armscye and 4 for the back C curves.
You should stitch the swim elastic along the wrong side of the main print with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine or your serger. Remember to disengage the serger blade! The elastic and edges it goes on should be then same length, no stretching needed.
In today’s video I show you how I add the elastic to the open back Sunflower top. Once you finish your steps, snap a picture of your progress and add it to the comments of day 5 photo of the sew along album. Tomorrow we add the optional ruffle and finish then swim top. See you back here!
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top
Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 4
Ahoy, matey! Welcome to the mid day of our Sunflower sew along. Today is the fastest sewing day so it makes a good opportunity to catch up on past days, start a second swim top or join us if you still haven’t started.
First off we need to baste or pin in place the front straps. If you are sewing the halter top, you’ll pin the straps 1.25″ away from each side. If you did the scoop neckline (like me) then you are centering the straps in the pick ups. Once the front straps are basted in place, stitch the back side too. You are only sewing in the back straps for the closed back style.
Place your lining and your main right sides together making sure that the straps are out of the way. Stitch along the top ONLY for now. For the closed back option, you are all done. If you are creating the open back then you will also need to stitch around the 4 “C” curves at the back.
You can see in day 4 video below how I attach the lining to my scoop neck, open back Sunflower swim top. Once you finish today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of the Sunflower Sew Along album. See you back here tomorrow!
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top
Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 3
Hello, pirates! On day 3 we create the straps and sew the side seams. The Sunflower Swim top includes a full back and an open back option. The covered back straps are much shorter than the open back ones.
One of the most important tips I have for you for today is to not skip the elastic in the straps, regardless of which style swim top you chose. The straps are pretty much holding the rest of the suit in place. That, and the fact that swim fabric tends to “relax” in the water makes the straps elastic mandatory.
You can serge the elastic to the wrong side of the straps as Judy has in her videos or you can zig zag it on, as I did. Optionally, you can top stitch the straps along the center. Just make sure you use a stretch stitch or a chain stitch for that.
Last steps for today are sewing the side seams of the main and then of the lining. If you opted fro the open back style, your main and lining will be a flat piece. For the closed back style, once you sew the side seams you will have two “loops”.
In today’s video you can see how I create the open back straps and sew the side seams. Keep in mind that if you are doing the closed back option, the Sunflower pattern does include videos for that option as well. Once you finish today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of this Sew Along album.
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics
Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top
- « Previous Page
- 1
- …
- 13
- 14
- 15
- 16
- 17
- …
- 65
- Next Page »