Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

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Favorite/Fav Tee SAL – day 6 (add neckband)

August 11, 2018

We made it to the last sewing day! Hooray! Today we’re adding the neckband, pressing and showing off our creations. My favorite part! đŸ™‚

If you chose the scoop neckline, take a look over our P4P University Neckbands 101 before you start sewing. The blog includes a video of the Favorite Tee as well. If you picked the V neckline like I did, check out our P4P University V-neckbands 101 and the video below.

How easy was that? All done! You all did great! Now show off your work in the groups and don’t forget to post your final picture in the comments of the day 6 photo of the Favorite /Fav Tee SAL album. The P4P/M4M team will pick the two lucky winners on Monday and we will announce them here on the blog.

Favorite Tee & Fav Tee SAL

Day 1: print + cut pattern

Day 2: chose + cut fabric

Day 3: shoulder seam + attach sleeves

Day 4: side seam + hem sleeves

Day 5: hem bottom or add band

Day 6: neckband

Day 7: winner announcement 

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Favorite/Fav Tee SAL – day 5 (hem bottom/add waistband)

August 10, 2018

Ahoy, Pirates! Welcome to day 5 of our Favorite Tee and Fav Tee Sew along. Today we’ll be hemming the bottom or adding the bottom band if you’re doing that option.

As you remember from day 2, the bottom band has 4 pieces for sizes 1x to 3x and 2 pieces (cut on fold) for sizes xxs to xxl. Construct and add your band according to the tutorial, making sure you add all necessary notches!

If you chose the hemmed option, you can do that using your sewing machine, twin needles or your coverstitch as I have. Before you start, take a look over our Hemming blog because we have a few tips for easy and successful hemming. If you are finishing the bottom hem using twin needles, a good refresher blog is the P4P University Twin Needles Tips.

In the Day 5 video below I am showing you how easy it is to hem the curved dress option. Check it out and once you finish your day 5 steps, be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of the Day 5 picture. Can’t wait to see!

 

Favorite Tee & Fav Tee SAL

Day 1: print + cut pattern

Day 2: chose + cut fabric

Day 3: shoulder seam + attach sleeves

Day 4: side seam + hem sleeves

Day 5: hem bottom or add band

Day 6: neckband

Day 7: winner announcement 

Filed Under: Sew-A-Long 1 Comment

Favorite/Fav Tee SAL – day 4 (sew side seams and hem sleeves)

August 9, 2018

 

We made it to the half way mark of our Favorite Tee & Fav Tee sew along! That was fast! Today we’ll be sewing the side seams and hemming the sleeves.

When sewing the side seams, pin the front to the back of the shirt, right sides together. I like to pin the armpit first, then the end of the sleeve and the bottom and finally add a few pins or clips in between. Whether you are making the shirt or dress, long sleeve, 3/4 or short sleeves (like I am) the technique is the same.

Next we will be hemming the sleeves. You can do this using your sewing machine’s stretch stitch or zig zag stitch, a twin needle or your coverstitch like I am. If you use your twin needles be sure to check out our P4P University Twin Needles blog for great tips!

In the video below I show you how to sew the side seams and hem the sleeves using a coverstitch machine. When you finish these steps be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of the Day 4 photo  (album is in the M4M & P4P Sew along group)

Favorite Tee & Fav Tee SAL

Day 1: print + cut pattern

Day 2: chose + cut fabric

Day 3: shoulder seam + attach sleeves

Day 4: side seam + hem sleeves

Day 5: hem bottom or add band

Day 6: neckband

Day 7: winner announcement 

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Favorite/Fav Tee SAL – day 3 (sew shoulder seams and sleeves)

August 8, 2018

Day 3 – lets start sewing! Today we sew the shoulder seams (easy peasy!) and add the set in sleeves. When attaching the sleeves it is very important to match the notch to the shoulder seam, pin in place and then match the side seams and pin in place.

The Favorite Tee and the Fav Tee follow a 1/2″ seam allowance so be sure to not deviate from it when you sew the shoulder seams RST or when you attach the sleeves.

Watch the day 3 video below and be sure to post a picture of today’s progress in the day 3 photo comments of the Favorite/Fav Tee album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Group.

 

Favorite Tee & Fav Tee SAL

Day 1: print + cut pattern

Day 2: chose + cut fabric

Day 3: shoulder seam + attach sleeves

Day 4: side seam + hem sleeves

Day 5: hem bottom or add band

Day 6: neckband

Day 7: winner announcement 

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long 1 Comment

Favorite/Fav Tee SAL – day 2 (choose and cut fabric)

August 7, 2018

Welcome to day 2 of our Favorite and Fav Tee sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric and cutting it. You should have your pattern pieces ready from yesterday so now we will be using them to cut the fabric.

But first let’s talk a little about the right fabric for this pattern. As you can see in the video below I am using Bamboo Spandex from Fabric Anthropology for my dress. This is by far my favorite knit type for this pattern. I also like Rayon Spandex and Brushed Poly for it too.

If you are unsure about which knit type will work best for your desired look, take a look over our P4P University Knit Types blog. Judy also included a cheat sheet that you can print. If you are like me and sometime are just keen on using a specific print for a specific pattern, read our Different fabric, different fit blog post before you cut your fabric.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of it in the comments of the Day 2 photo in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

 

 

Favorite Tee & Fav Tee SAL

Day 1: print + cut pattern

Day 2: chose + cut fabric

Day 3: shoulder seam + attach sleeves

Day 4: side seam + hem sleeves

Day 5: hem bottom or add band

Day 6: neckband

Day 7: winner announcement 

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Favorite/Fav Tee SAL – day 1 (print and cut pattern)

August 6, 2018

Welcome to our Favorite Tee / Fav Tee Sew Along!

Day One is reserved to purchasing the pattern, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Favorite Tee here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Fav Tee can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This is our first Sew Along in the new M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the Favorite and Fav Tee patterns but also to post your progress this week.

Now that you purchased the pattern(s), print the size needed. In order to do that it is very important that you take your most accurate measurements.

You will need your waist, hips and chest measurements in order to choose the correct Favorite/Fav Tee size. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

Check out the day 1 video below and then post a picture of your favorite sewing tool in the comments of the Day 1 picture. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern posted so this will be a great way to show our fellow sewists our gadgets đŸ™‚

 

Favorite Tee & Fav Tee SAL

Day 1: print + cut pattern

Day 2: chose + cut fabric

Day 3: shoulder seam + attach sleeves

Day 4: side seam + hem sleeves

Day 5: hem bottom or add band

Day 6: neckband

Day 7: winner announcement 

 

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long 7 Comments

So Classic Sundress Hacks

August 3, 2018

The So Classic Sundress has released so grab your favorite wovens and sew yourself or your little ones a pretty dress. In true P4P fashion we have gathered some easy hacks that you can make to the So Classic Sundress that will give you even more options than the many included in the pattern.

…..

Gathered Thick Straps

The first hack we have for you is a gathered strap. If you would like a little more shoulder coverage or just want a fun new option, this hack is for you. Cut your dress as per the pattern instruction and simply cut the straps wider. For youth 3M to 4 you will be cutting the straps 7″ wide by the length given in the pattern. For 5 to 14, your straps will be 8″ by the length. If you are making this hack for the women’s dress then your new width will be 8″ (XXS-S), 9″ (M-XXL) and 10″ (1x-3x). The length will be the one listed in the tutorial.

Fold the straps lengthwise, right sides together and stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim the SA to 1/4″, press open and turn the straps inside out. Press and optionally top stitch.

Sew two gathering stitches at the top and bottom of the straps. One should be about 1/4″ away from the raw edge and the other 5/8″ away.

Pull the gathering stitches so the  straps are 3/4″ wide for sizes 3m to 4. Your finished gathered straps will be 1″ ( for 5-12 and xxs – xs), 1.25″ (m – xxl) and 1.5″ (1x-3x).

Repeat this step for all raw edges of the straps.

Continue sewing the dress as shown in the tutorial. Tadah! you have a brand new option added to the So Classic Sundress repertoire.

 

…..

Skirt

For this hack, we’re going to do something that we love to do to our dresses- create separates. In this case, we’re creating a classic style woven skirt using the bottom portion of your So Classic Sweetheart dress. This is a great hack for everyday wear or more professional look as well.

To begin, you will want to decide which version of the skirt you would like, plain front or button up, along with length. Once you’ve decided, you will want to cut out your skirt pieces as given in the tutorial chart. The only change you will need to make is to your waistband. You will want to double the length when cutting it out.

To assemble the waistband, begin by stitching your waistband pieces together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

If you are making the button placket, you will now have a long waistband piece, that is constructed in the following order: front waistband, back waistband, front waistband. If you are making the plain front, you should have a tube. Trim seams and press open.

Fold waistband in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. If desired, you can top stitch 1/8″ from top of waistband. Baste only your back waistband piece together.

Cut your piece of elastic to the appropriate length given in the tutorial chart. Using a safety pin or other tool, pull your elastic through the back waistband casing.

You will now stitch in the ditch at the waistband seams to hold elastic in place.

Your waistband is now ready to be attached to the skirt! Follow the directions as given in the tutorial and begin to enjoy that gorgeous skirt you just created!

~ Nicole and Erinn

(Nicole is wearing the button placket skirt and Erinn is wearing the plain front version)

…..

Ties Straps

I’m here to show you a super simple tie strap hack! This hack is great for tiny babies who are more difficult to get dressed, a grow with me length of strap that is super quick and easy, a way to get the perfect strap length every time, and of course, just another adorable detail to change the look up a bit.

Start by cutting 4 halter straps rather than just 2.

Follow the tutorial to finish the straps just as the halter straps are finished.

For placement use the suggested placement for the regular/traditional straps.

Finish constructing bodice and dress just as the tutorial instructs.

Enjoy the adorable bows on the shoulders!

Judy

…..

Simple Belt

 

While browsing Pinterest I saw a dress very similar to the So Classic Sundress that featured a real belt instead of a waistband so I knew I had to make a simple one and show you how to make your own belts.

Start by gathering your supplies. You will need fabric, any woven fabric will work, belt hardware (that I actually upcycled from an old one) and grommets.

Cut a strip of fabric 4 inches wide by 50-60″ long depending on the size you’re making.

Fold the fabric lengthwise with the right sides together and sew around the raw edge leaving a 2-3″ opening. Turn the belt with the right side out, topstitch around the edges so you close the opening and give it sturdiness.

Using a fabric marker or chalk, draw a 3/4″ line about 1.5″ away from the edge. This will be your buttonhole marking.

Sew a buttonhole using your buttonhole attachment. If you need a refresher on buttons and button holes check out the P4P University blog here.

Add the belt hardware as shown in the pictures below and sew in place. Optionally you can slide one additional metal belt loop on the belt.

Take the other side of the belt and mark your grommets positions. Make sure that you add your grommets to the right side of the belt so it matches the other end. I like mine spaced 2″ apart. Try the belt on to see if you need to add any additional grommets.

There you have it! You made your very own belt. Now think about all the fabric possibilities! đŸ™‚

…..

Bow front

 

Adding a bow can be another way to add a pop of color or a cute detail to your dress. We’ve shown it here for the girls, but you could easily add this to the women’s as well using the same methods.

You will want to begin by cutting your rectangular bow pieces. You will need two rectangles. To determine the width, follow the graphic below (this is just a guide, you can make your bow wider or narrower, based on preference). For the length, you will want to make sure that it is wide enough to tie and fit across the bodice piece. It’s ok if it is too long, as you can always trim it down later.

Taking one of your rectangles, fold it in half with right sides together. Stitch, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat with other bow. Next, cut a “v” notch from the top of each piece, as shown below. Press seam allowance open.

Holding the bow slightly open, it should create a tube. You will want to align the stitched edge with the opposite side now, to create the curved edges of your bows (the seam should now be in the middle rather than the edge). Stitch around the curve, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat on other bow.

Trim along the curve’s seam allowance using either pinking sheers or scissors.
* If using scissors, make small cuts into the seam allowance, making sure to not cut through stitches. This will help your curve to lay smoother.

Using your favorite turning tool, turn bows inside out, smoothing out the edges and press. Top stitch if desired.

Taking your center bodice piece, position each bow and baste into place (make sure to leave enough length to tie the bow, as shown in the next step!). Trim any excess length. Attach side pieces as directed in tutorial.

You now have two options- You can either tie the bow in a simple knot, like this. 

Or, another option is to create a center tie to hold the bows together. If using this method, you will not need as much length when you baste your bows.

You will want to begin by creating a small tube. Cut a rectangular piece 2″ width and approximately 6″ long. Fold in half, right sides together, and stitch using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seam allowance open and turn tube right sides out. Press, making sure that the seam is in the middle back of the tie.

Overlap your bows and wrap the center piece around them.

Stitch across the center piece to create a loop (as shown where pin is placed above). Trim any extra length that you might have and rotate the seam to behind the bow. Finish dress as per tutorial.

~ Erinn

Piping

If you know me you know I’m a huge piping fan, store bought piping that is. If I can add it to a dress I will, so it is only normal that I added it to the So Classic Sundress.

After cutting your pattern pieces as instructed you will add the piping to the desired seams. I love it at the princess seams and the sweetheart neckline. You could add piping to the straps, the waistband and even the bottom hem if you’d like. I would not recommend adding piping to the back as piping doesn’t look nice gathered.

Sew the piping to the center princess seams using a zipper foot. Store bought piping are smaller than the 1/2″ SA included in the pattern so place it a little bit away from the edge.

Sew the princess seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Take the front of the bodice and pin in place the piping at the raw edge. Start 1/2″ away from the side seam and stop 1/2″ away for the other side seam as shown below.

Sew in place and continue the dress construction as per the tutorial.

Such a fun detail and so easy to add!

 

…..

No Waistband

 

You might have noticed above that I skipped the waistband piece on the bodice. This is such an easy hack. All you have to do is use the lining pieces as the main piece. So you will be cutting two front linings (one in the main fabric and one in the lining), four front side linings (2 sets of mirrored pieces with the lining fabric and two with the main fabric) and two back lining pieces (one in the lining and one in the main fabric).

You can make this hack for all straps options and for both women and girls. đŸ™‚

 

….

Shirred back

The So Classic Sundress feature elastic casing at the back bodice but if you or your little one prefer the feel of shirring or would just like an extra option you can do that so easily. Construct the bodice as shown in the pattern and skip cutting the elastic pieces. and creating the casings and replace with shirring.

All you have left to do now is shirr the back using elastic thread. Follow the tips in the Shirring 101 blog we have for you as part of our P4P University. Easy peasy!

 

….

Adjustable Straps

The pattern includes standard or suggested strap lengths, but some may prefer to have adjustable straps.  I adjusted the width of my straps to do spaghetti style and used “lingerie” sliders from Joann Fabrics.  There are wider width sliders and rings available from various shops (such as Bra-Makers Supply) if you prefer to keep a wider strap to cover your bra straps.

Cut 2 longer straps (these will be the adjustable section ) and then 2 short straps (this will be attached to the back portion of the bodice).

My straps were 1.75″ x 28″ (the length of the halter straps in the pattern).  In retrospect I think adding about 8″ to the shoulder strap lengths in the pattern would be sufficient enough.  My sliders ended up on top of my shoulders and I really didn’t need all that extra length.  The short strap is 1.75″ x 3″.

Fold each strap in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch.  Trim and press seam allowances open.

Turn straps right side out.
Pull end of strap through one side of slider. Note – the right side of your strap will be facing up. The middle bar of the slider will be on the wrong side of the strap.
Feed strap through opposite side of the slider and then slide the ring through the end of the strap.
On the wrong side of the strap, feed the strap end through the top opening of the slider.

Fold the strap down and continue to feed it through the bottom opening of the slider.
Fold strap end under and stitch.
Feed shorter strap section through ring.
Fold in half and baste in place.

Now you have a completed set of adjustable straps. Treat them as a single strap and attach to the bodice as shown in the tutorial.  The shorter strap side should be attached to the back bodice. I also chose to do a criss-cross, so instead of placing them parallel, cross them over to create an X when attaching them to the front and back bodice.


….

Front Bodice Cut-Out

The So Classic Sundress is a classic, vintage style but with this slight modification, you can make it edgy and on trend. You can adjust the size of the cut-out to your preference but I used the empire and princess seam as a guide as to where to place mine.

Construction is slightly different and since we will be enclosing our front bodice in the waistband you will not use the lining pieces in the pattern.  Instead, cut out 2 (mirror image) of all the main front bodice, main back bodice and front and back waistband pieces.

Construct your front and back bodice per pattern instructions and attached your straps.
With right sides together , place lining on main front bodice and stitch along the entire top edge. (just as the pattern instructs).
Open bodice from lining. With right sides together, place back bodice in side front bodice. (just as the pattern instructs).
Fold main bodice so that it is right sides facing with the lining, sandwiching the back bodice in between the layers. Stitch side seams. (just as the pattern instructs).

Moving the back bodice out of the way, pin the bottom raw edge of the front bodice along the V cut-out. Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Note – do not stitch along the side bodice section.
Clip the center of the V up to but not through the seam-line.
Open bodice and pull the back bodice out to turn the entire bodice right sides out.
Press and top-stitch along top edge and V cut-out.

Now we will move on to construct and attach the waistband and skirt.

With right sides together sew front waistband to back waistband at side seams (short ends), creating a circle.
With right sides together, slip waistband over bodice. Baste in Place.
With right sides together, slip lining waistband inside bodice. The bodice should be sandwiched between the main and lining waistband. Stitch.
Fold and press waistband wrong sides together.

Baste back waistband along bottom raw edge. Do not stitch the front waistband yet.
Insert elastic in waistband.
Stitch in the ditch (along the side seam) to hold elastic in place.
Top-stitch front waistband and baste along bottom raw edge. Attach your skirt as per pattern instructions.


Now that you have all these extra options, go sew some So Classic Dresses and don’t forget to show them off in the P4P group !

Alex, Nicole, Judy and Erinn

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Pattern Hacks, Pattern Release, Uncategorized 1 Comment

So Classic Sundress Round Up

August 3, 2018

It feels like it’s been forever since I’ve been able to say this….but IT’S RELEASE DAY!  And we’ve got some ah-dorable dresses for you today, my pirate friends.  Get ready to meet the So Classic Sundress patterns!


The Sew Classic Sundresses are just that: so classic!  Drafted for use with woven fabrics, these dresses have such a retro flair and can be paired with so many different fabric types to create the perfect look.  Both patterns feature as many options as we could pack into them.  Two bodice lengths (empire and natural waist), three bodice styles (plain, center seam, and button placket), three skirt lengths (mini, knee and maxi), two strap styles (halter and straight), bucket patch pockets, princess seams, and an elastic casing back bodice.  It is drafted for women (sizes XXS – Plus 3X), and youth (3M – 14).

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And, as with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.

Are you ready to see all of the options in action?  Me too!

Empire + Natural Waist Bodices

Plain, Center Seam + Button Placket (Princess Seam) Bodices

Regular + Halter Straps (with Elastic Casing Back Bodices)

Mini, Knee + Maxi Lengths

Optional Patch Pockets

It’s time to get So Classic with us!

SO CLASSIC DRESS – YOUTH | SO CLASSIC DRESS – WOMEN’S | SO CLASSIC DRESS – BUNDLE

Need more inspiration before you commit?  Head over to our Facebook group and take a look at the amazing dresses that our gorgeous testers created.  Youth Album / Women’s Album

But wait.  There’s more!  Take a look at our So Classic Dress Easy Hacks post to take your patterns even further!

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Friday August 10, 2018 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy sewing, my pirate friends!

Filed Under: Pattern Release Leave a Comment

P4P University – Shirring 101

July 31, 2018

In this month’s P4P University blog we decided to focus on shirring. Shirring is the process that will give elasticity non stretchy fabric by shrinking it.

Start by winding the bobbin with elastic thread. I recommend winding the bobbin by hand instead if the electric winder. This will ensure that the thread is not too tight on the bobbin.

TIP: Wind several bobbins before you start sewing.

Replace your regular thread bobbin with the elastic thread one and manually pull the elastic thread up by hand turning the machine wheel.

I have made this video with my tips for easy shirring so take a look before you start.

 

Choose light weight fabric!

As with all sewing, fabric type/weight makes a huge difference. The lighter the fabric, the tighter will your shirring be. Voile or chiffon will shirr better than quilting cotton, denim or corduroy won’t shirr at all.

Adjust the tension and length according to your machine and fabric!

Not all sewing machines will shirr the same way. Some might “fuss” more than other, so it’s very important to test on a piece of fabric (the same as the one you’re using in your project) what tension will work best. I personally prefer the longest stitch length and the highest tension.

Do not use the automatic thread cutter!

I know for some, like me, using the automatic features of our machine is like second nature but try to remember to disengage the automatic thread cutter so you avoid having to manually pull the elastic thread up with every row. See video above.

Space your shirring rows equally spaced, no more than 1/4″ apart!

For best shirring results your rows should be about 1/4″ apart, or less. The closer the shirring rows, the tighter the elasticity.

Steam, steam and STEAM again!!

Once you finished your shirring rows take your project to the ironing board and give the shirred rows several bursts of steam, on both sides. You will see the shrinking magic happening right before your eyes. This step is NOT OPTIONAL, it’s a must do when shirring.

There you have it! You are now ready to shirr all the woven tops!

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Sister, Sister!

July 11, 2018

I don’t write much about myself personally here on the blog- but I get asked a lot about my sisters đŸ™‚

I have two sisters- Megan and Nicole.  Both of who have or still draft their own PDF Sewing Patterns just like me.  We all grew up sewing with my Mom, who was self taught through books, tv shows, online classes, etc… she is a life long learner who always wants more information! She definitely taught us you can always learn more if you’re willing.  She also taught us a lot about sewing! She made every kind of apparel including our prom dresses and wedding dresses.  Here is mine, which I adore.

She taught us everything from sewing jargon, fabric types, ease, modifying and about drafting as well. Eventually we all ended up in the same business.  Nicole had Coles Creations, in which Mom actually helped her on the drafting side for some time.  Since, she has retired a bit from the game, but still enjoys sewing of course.  Here we are this past Christmas all in me-made shirts đŸ˜‰

Megan is the owner of Made for Mermaids.  We’ve done a few promos and things together over the years from pattern bundles, sew a longs, giveaways, blog tours, etc.  We often get sited as “sister sites/companies”, but in actuality we keep our companies completely separate.  We are in fact SISTERS though đŸ™‚

You’ll notice we have some similarities in our companies and some differences too.  We both have wide size ranges and our womens are drafted to the “curvy” women’s body type… because, well… we’re both curvy đŸ˜‰Â  I draft for P4P exclusively- although I have some help with small adjustments during testing and help with some of the freebies being drafted by Nicole Lanzarotto and Katy McKinley.

Megan drafts for her company and has two other designers that also draft their own patterns with M4M- Catherine Muzzati and Megan Thoman.  So, when questions are asked about M4M patterns vs P4P patterns the answer is often, “I don’t know!”  I do not have anything to do with M4M patterns from drafting, testing, releasing, etc other than seeing the sneak peeks like you usually! Sometimes Megan and I will talk more in detail about certain patterns: discussing and giving opinions on amount of ease we like best, length, etc.  Sometimes we will ask each other to test a pattern or to model a pattern for each other as well.  For example, Megan is the cover of my Boundless Knit Dress and Summer Kimono, both drafted and released while I was pregnant with my daughter đŸ™‚ We used to do this much more when we lived closer, because it is much easier to take someone else’s picture than you’re own!! I’ve also used her daughter for covers several times, because I once didn’t have a daughter to model or had a little baby who was very hard to take a picture of đŸ˜‰ I still will grab her for pictures when I can… she’s so much easier to take a photo of than my toddler, lol!!  Her husband is even the cover of our Men’s Henley because she happen to get a great shot for me.


But, most the time we have never seen the majority of the others patterns until we would like to sew one up one day.  So, most the time I honestly just don’t know if one of her shirts is more or less fitted than one of mine is.  We do try to not overlap our designs much since we don’t want to compete with each other on purpose, but as our catalogs grow we will most likely have some overlap and that’s okay too.

I hope this helps clarify how we are and are not connected đŸ™‚ If you’re curious, we also have two brothers, but neither are into sewing…although John has modeled for me before (he appears on the cover of the men’s bball shorts).  We’re one big happy family who love and support each other through everything.

Filed Under: Announcement, Frequently Asked Questions, Uncategorized 4 Comments

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