Blog - Patterns for Pirates

5 ways to finish a serger hem

March 9, 2017

“How do you finish your serger stitch since you can’t back stitch?”; “What do I do with the long serger tail ?” ….just a few of the serger questions we’ve seen in our group. So, today in the blog I will show you 5 easy ways to finish your serger seam. These techniques will definitely come in handy when your seams will not be enclosed in a hem or they won’t be serged over in a subsequent pattern step.

1. Let’s start with my most used one, and the easiest method since it does not involve any other tools. Serge your fabric together and chain off a 5- 6 inches tail. Simply tie a knot as close as possible to the edge and done! It will not unravel and it took you 20 seconds to do. 🙂

TIP: For a cleaner look you can tack down the seam with your sewing machine. Simply stitch down the serged edge half an inch towards the back.

2. Another simple way to finish your serged seam is to snip the tail close to the edge and then add a little dab of Fray Block or Fray Check. This will prevent your seam from coming undone. This method is my least favorite since it takes a while for the liquid fray block to dry and they are not always 100% secure.

3. A third way to insure that you have a nice smooth finish to your serged seam is to chain off 4-5 inches then using a needle gently unstitch the chain so you have 4 threads. Take the two needle threads and the two looper threads and tie a double knot. Carefully snip the threads as close to the knot as possible.

4. One of the most popular ways to finish a serger seam is the “weaving through” method. In order to do that you will be chaining off your stitches about 5 inches, then you will be using a knitting or crochet suture needle to weave the chain in the looper stitches. Grab the needle and thread the chain through the needle eye. Slowly weave the chain through the looper stitches about an inch or so. Carefully trim the rest of the chain stitch.

5. The last finishing method is the most “complex” one and it will need a bit of practice. It is not difficult, you just need to pay extra attention. Serge your seam and when you get to the end of the edge, lift your presser foot, gently but firmly pull the fabric just enough that you can flip it on the other side. Disengage the serger knife and serge in the opposite direction for an inch or two. Stop, lift your presser foot and carefully pull the fabric on the side away from the foot. Chain off a couple of inches and then cut the chain as close to the fabric as possible. In doing this “faux backstitching” you will end up with a beautiful finish that is also very secure.

There you have it! Hope you found these 5 easy ways to finish off your seam helpful and that you’ll refer back to them when you’ll be sewing the new cami patterns that Judy sneaked on the P4P Instagram page. 😉

Alex

all p4p today

March 1, 2017

One of our biggest joys is seeing you wear P4P outfits and feeling beautiful! From Slim Fit Raglans to SOS pants, from Timeless Tunics to Free Spirit tanks, we love them all!

Are you wearing head to to P4P today? Will you be rocking a full Patterns for Pirates outfit tomorrow? Post a picture in the Facebook group or on Instagram of your outfit and hash tag it #allP4Ptoday. We will pick our favorite each month. In order to qualify for the contest, the photo must be taken when you’re wearing the outfit, whether it’s at home or out and about. Selfies in the mirror in your sewing room will not count. We want to see you wearing what you’re sewing and love it!😊 The lucky winner will be receiving a P4P pattern of their choice! Sounds fun?

Just in case you need some inspiration here is some of our “all P4P” looks that we rocked this past year.

Pumpkin Spice Dolman and SOS Pants

Sweetheart peplum and pirate Pencil skirt

Boundless maxi dress and Men’s Henley

Essential Tank, Cocoon Cardigan and SOS Pants

Timeless Tunic and pirate Pencil Skirt

Slim Fit Raglan and SOS pants (adjusted for shorts)

Sunshine dress

Mama Bear Joggers and Women’s Henley with faux layers

Essential Tank – dress length

Free Spirit Tank dress with the LMU sleeves hack and the free scarf (available on the blog)

Relaxed Raglan and Peg legs

Sweet Tee dress and Cocoon Cardigan

So get to sewing and show off your outfits, pirates! Don’t forget to hashtag #allP4Ptoday !

Alex

P4P Cardi Week :: Winners!

January 30, 2017

Cardi Week was a blast, don’t you think? Thank you so much to everyone who sewed along with us, and especially to those of you who shared all over the interwebs photos of your makes. I looked through all of the #P4PCardiWeek tags and here are a few of my favorites.

Cardigan-Making Machine:
I throughly enjoyed whenever a new photo of Dolores popped up in my feed last week! Most of her fabrics were super thrifty finds too!

Favorite Nerdy Cardi:
Tamara knew the way directly to my heart was through Star Wars culture. Isn’t this Cocoon Cardigan in Darth Vader fabric just the best in the galaxy?

Cutest Cardi Family:
Callie and her adorable girls stole the show with these mostly handmade outfits for her and her girls. Did you play iSpy with the two cardigans that made it into the picture? The Carefree Cardigan with the lace details gives me all sorts of heart eyes.

Favorite Original + Carbon Copy:
I’m sorry, but a Mommy & Me matching outfit is just too much for me to handle. Aren’t Amanda and her little so sweet together?

We had an amazing week of cardi celebrations! Did you have as much fun as I did?

Big thanks to our fabulous blogging team for showing us how easy it is to take our patterns one step further!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement
Sunday, January 22: Cocoon / Butterfly Ruffle + Lace Hems
Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack
Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack
Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment
Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem
Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack
Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack
Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

P4P Cardi Week :: Carefree Flannel + Vest Hack

January 28, 2017

The Carefree Cardigan is such a great drape cardigan and as it has a nice loose fit you can easily use it to make a vest and because of the shape of the cardigan it will work in woven. Yep I said it you can make this vest in woven!

This is a super quick hack, start by cutting your 2 front pieces and back out of your flannel and you are going to want to choose the longer length of the two length, you aren’t going to need any of the band pieces for this. Depending on your height you may want to remove or add length. I’m a shorty so I remove a couple of inchs from the bottom and also from the front side as the drape is quite long on me.

Sew your shoulder, skip the sleeves and sew the side seams as per the directions. Now instead of adding bands we are going to hem the armholes and all the way around your neck, down the front and across the bottom. I serged all the way around first to finish the edges. The serged edge gives me a perfect 1/4 inch to flip and iron and then I flipped it one more time so my serged edge was hidden and hemmed all the way around as close to the fold as you can. Another tip is to trim your corners, it just makes them a bit less bulky to hem. Do the exact same process to your armcycles and voila you have perfect draped flannel vest! If you don’t have a serger just use a zig zag stitch to finish the edges. Another cute option would be to fringe the front of your cardigan, you would still need to hem around the neck and down the sides but you can easily just pull the threads along the front and or the bottom till you have the amount of fringe that you would like.

I live in Canada so I really like the extra layer that sleeves add so for this second version I cut the back and sleeves out of a knit and then cut the front pieces in a flannel. I used the exact same construction as above with no bands and just hemmed all the way around and I have another cute cardigan but got to use my warm flannel!

Now go sew up all that gorgeous plaid flannel that you have been hoarding! – Angela Newman

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems & Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

You can follow along on the blog here, or in our Facebook group. Search #P4PCardiWeek to be able to find our posts all over social media. And please feel free to sew-along with us on one or all of the days. The more the merrier!

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

Between tomorrow and Saturday, January 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates cardigan using one of our hacks, or by keeping the pattern as-is. Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag#P4PCardiWeek We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog. Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week:: Varsity Sweater Hack

January 27, 2017

Let’s talk game day attire… I know we have some sports fans in the Facebook group and if your house is anything like mine, it revolves around football. Even if it doesn’t, the Varsity style sweater is a nod to a throwback classic look. Some months back Judy showed us how to add a stripe accent to a raglan sleeve during our #P4PRaglanWeek (read more about it HERE) . Using the same idea, I hacked the Cpt. Mack’s Cardigan to replicate a Varsity sweater.

Print, assemble and cut your pieces as instructed in the pattern.

After looking at a few Varsity style sweaters I decided to go with 2 stripes on the left sleeve only. You can choose a number of different fabrics to use for the stripes. I ended up using a flocked heat transfer vinyl but you could also use knit scraps. Placement of your stripes is your preference depending on size and quantity. My stripes are 3/4″ wide and are placed just below the short sleeve cut line and above the 3/4 sleeve cut line. (Note: the left sleeve is with the back of the sleeve to your right hand side when looking at the fabric with right side up. The elbow patches are show on the pattern piece.)

I also added an applique to the left front body. I used the flocked heat transfer vinyl again and pressed it directly to white knit and then used Heat & Bond Hem Tape to secure in place. Top-stitching is optional but decided to keep it as is. If you choose to add an applique, embroidery or any additional embellishments to the main body, do it prior to construction. It is much easier to add when your pieces are not sewn together yet.

Another design element that I noticed when searching for inspiration was the contrasting pocket bands. Using Patty’s idea during #P4PRaglanWeek (details HERE) I added the feature to the patch pockets.

That’s it! Easy, right?!?! Use your favorite team colors or maybe even your little one’s school colors for the perfect school pride cardi. This of course can be used to hack the women’s Grandpa Cardi as well.

We’re nearing the end of the #P4PCardiWeek but be sure to take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems and Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week :: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves Hack

January 26, 2017

Cardi Week is well underway and I love seeing all of the inspiration in the Facebook group and here on the blog! Today I have a fun hack to bring up the delicate, vintage vibe of the Summer Kimono to the next level. Side note: if it’s not summer for you (yet), you can totally wear this kimono all year round like with flannel, here. Or look cute and freeze like me here, either way. 😉

First, you’ll want to think about fabric choices. For this one, I used a very flowy lightweight woven chiffon. Due to the ruffles here I would suggest using a decently lightweight fabric like this, since you don’t want the ruffles to be too bulky. If they are, then they won’t lay exactly right and be a little puffy.

Step 1. Once you’ve decided on your fabric, start by assembling the pattern. Cut out your bodice pieces. Assemble the front and back pieces as directed.

Step 2. The first thing you’ll need to do differently is cutting out the bands. Instead of cutting out two 5″x28″ bands, cut out two 10″x38″ bands. This is where you’ll do the ruffles.

Step 3. Now, fold the two bands in half, wrong sides together matching the long edges. Iron the fold and pin/clip along the raw edges.

Step 4. If your fabric frays easily like mine, then you’ll want to do a zigzag (or other finishing stitch) right along the raw edges to stop it from fraying when you’re working with the fabric. Sew together both layers of fabric.

Step 5. Now, you’re going to need to gather the fabric. You can do this however you prefer, but for this project I recommend using basting stitches (straight stitch, loose tension, long stitch length). Sew down the raw edges twice, with the first line of stitching 3/8″ from the edge, the second line 5/8″ from the edge.

Step 6. Grab the bottom (bobbin) threads, and pull gently to gather. You’ll want to do this as evenly as you can, but you can adjust the ruffles as you go along or when you’re done too. Do this until the piece gathers shrinks down to the size of the edge of the sleeve, which will be around 28″.

Step 7. Make sure your ruffles are pretty evenly distributed, as much as possible. Don’t stress too much about this, since they will be hanging on the sleeve when done instead of laying flat on a table. 🙂

Step 8. Lay the ruffle pieces along the raw edges of each sleeve. Make sure the right side of the sleeve fabric is facing up towards you. Pin/clip generously. Trust me, you can’t really overdo it. (I used a different color of fabric for the ruffle in the picture, don’t get confused!)

Step 9. Now sew to attach the ruffles to the each sleeve. Take a 1/2″ seam allowance here; you should stitch right in between your basting stitches. Go slowly to make sure you don’t disrupt the ruffles too much, after you carefully arranged them. Once you’re done and you make sure that you like the way things look, remove the basting stitches.

Step 10. Finish the edges of the ruffles and sleeves. With a sewing machine, sew another zigzag or similar stitch through all three layers of fabric. Or with a serger, just serge through all three layers cutting off 1/4″.

Step 11. Press the seam allowance up towards the sleeve and away from the ruffles. If you didn’t serge the edge, turn the seam allowance down 1/4″, tuck under, pin and iron so that the raw edge is enclosed.

Step 12. Topstitch so that the seam allowance stays flat and pressed up towards the sleeve. Since this is a woven, I just used a regular straight stitch, but you could also use a twin needle for a fancier stitch.

Optional: Lightly press/steam the ruffles down along the sleeve seam and folded edge. Don’t press enough to make creases, but this does help the ruffles lay pretty flat.

Step 13. Complete the rest of the kimono as the pattern instructions dictate. I finished my edges and hem with lace, but you can easily use this same technique to add a ruffle to the hem as well.

All done! I’m totally in love with this look – can you tell I’m ready for spring with this floral print and soft colors?! I also easily styled this ruffle kimono with a gray Layer Me Up tank and my fave stretch denim SOS Pants. Comfy and cute! It can be done, ladies.

Now go out and make your own! Be sure to use the hashtag #P4PCardiWeek when you post in the Facebook group or Instagram!

Pirate-ly Yours,

– Elisabeth

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems and Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week : Grandpa Cardi in Duster Length

January 25, 2017

After spending way too much time browsing for sewing inspiration online, one of the biggest trends I’ve notice is the amount of long cardigans, also known as the duster length. While the original duster length was worn by the adventurous horsemen of the Wild West, I’ve decided to put a Pirate’s twist on it by using the Grandpa Cardigan. And what’s not to love about the Grandpa Cardi? It’s cozy, the perfect layering accessory, and always stylish! With a few quick and easy mods to the pattern, you too will be ready to join in on one of the hottest trends!

Determining Length
First you will need to determine how long you want your duster. For me, I chose to have it hit right around my mid-calf. I measured from my underarm to mid-calf, which was a distance of 40″ (I’m 5’7″ for reference).

Adding Length to Back and Bodice Pieces
To add my length, I traced the pattern as is, using the tunic cut length. I then placed my tape measure from the bottom of the armcyce to the edge of the tunic cut line on the front bodice piece. For an XS, this measurement was 23″, meaning that I needed to add an additional 17″ in length (you will want to measure this distance if you are using a different size). I then drew a line 17″ down from the tunic cut line, keeping these two lines parallel. Once the line was drawn, I connected the new duster length cut line perpendicular to the original pattern. Repeat this step on the back piece.

Adding Length to Collar
The Grandpa Cardi is very easy adjust the length of the collar. The band is only stretched around the neckline, while there is a 1:1 ratio below the slight V. Since I added 17″ in length, I added this same amount at the end of each collar piece from the tunic cut line. This will not alter the part of the band that needs to be stretched, only add to the section that is 1:1.

Finishing Duster Cardi
Once you have lengthened all pieces (and cut out your sleeves), assemble the pattern as per the tutorial.

And if you needed a little more inspiration, the Duster happens to pair amazingly well with the Boyfriend V-neck! You should probably just grab that one as well if you don’t already have it! Make sure to check out the bottom of the page to read about what the other ladies have in store for you during #P4PCardiWeek. ~ Erinn

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon / Butterfly Ruffle + Lace Hems

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week :: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

January 24, 2017

So you’ve been perusing Pinterest and you see all of those must have, trendy fringe cardigans. Now you’re looking at your library of sewing patterns and wondering which one can you easily hack into one of those gorgeous cardigans for yourself? Well here is a tutorial to show you how to easily transform the Patterns for Pirates Carefree Cardigan into a DIY fringe cardigan! Follow along to find out how easy this look is to achieve. At the end I have added the option to attach a button closure too!

First things first, which fabric should you use? My favorite knit fabrics to use for this purpose are knit fleece, closed weave brushed hacci sweater knit or a light-medium weight poly rayon spandex french terry. That said, you could do this with pretty much any knit. Be careful of really loose weave sweater knits though (the ones you can see through). They may fall apart on you during the fringe creation.

Step 1: Whatever you do, DON’T SKIP THIS. Before you make your fabric selection and begin cutting out your garment pieces, test out how the fabric is going to look once fringed. To do this make a few ½” wide by 6” deep cuts perpendicular to the selvedge edge. Tie a couple of these strips into a knot together just as it will be done on the finished cardigan. Some knits will stay structured; some will come close to falling apart. It is important to test the fabric to determine if your chosen fabric is going to give you a desired look.

Step 2: Cut out all pieces of your Carefree Cardigan for a ‘neckband only’ version, except for the neckband. For the neckband you are going to cut out a band half the cut chart width plus a seam allowance of 1/2″ for hemming.

Step 3: Assemble your cardigan as directed by the Carefree Cardigan pattern tutorial with the exception of the neckband. You are attaching the neckband without folding it in half to form a closed band. You want an open raw edged band.

Step 4: Using your sewing or coverstitch machine, you will then hem the long exposed edge of the neckband and along the bottom hem. Use a 1/2”” hem width here. You want it thin so that it doesn’t become bulky when you create the fringe. Lastly, hem the sleeves as directed by the pattern.

Step 5: Lay your cardigan out on your cutting mat, lining up the unfinished edge along a straight measurement line on your mat. Decide how wide you would like your fringe to be. Take your scissors and cut strips about 6” deep along the entire length of your cardigan front, every ½-1”. I chose to cut ½” strips. Go back and seam rip the hems on the bottom and top strips that you have now cut into fringe strips. You may want to add some reinforcement stiching to the hem stitches at the beginning and end just before it turns into fringe.

Step 6: The last step is to finish the fringe edge. This is done by tying the base of the strips into knots all down the front. Decide how many strips you would like to be knotted together to create some separation. I chose to knot 2 strips together down the entire length of my cardigan.

If you choose not to add a button closure you are now all finished!

OPTIONAL Button Closure

Step 7: Following Judy’s lead in her Carefree Cardigan Button blog tutorial, I chose to add a button to mine to finish off the look. To do this I put on my cardigan and played with different variations of button placement; to decide how I wanted the cardigan to be styled. I settled on adding a 1” shoulder button.

[center button placement]

[shoulder button placement]

Step 8: Once you have decided on placement, mark it. A lot of the time I like to use dry erase crayons to mark placement. The mark is easily visible on any fabric and it stays put until you throw your garment in the wash. Mark the button location both on the overlapping bodice front and the under lapping bodice front.

[dry erase crayon]

Step 9: Use your sewing machine to create a buttonhole on the overlapping bodice front in the top corner. If you are using an oversized button or do not have an automatic buttonhole presser foot for your machine see Judy Hale’s post HERE. Carefully cut open the buttonhole with your seam ripper.

[automatic buttonhole presser foot]

Step 10: Now attach your button with your sewing machine or by hand on the under lapping bodice shoulder where you have placed a marking. Try it on and adjust button placement if necessary.

All done!

Keep your eyes peeled for some other fun tutorials the ladies at Patterns for Pirates have prepared for you this week! Be sure to read all the way through the end of this post to find out about the contest we have running this week!

-Kelly Bailey

P4P Blog Contributor

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems and Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

Between tomorrow and Saturday, January 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates cardigan using one of our hacks, or by keeping the pattern as-is. Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag #P4PCardiWeek. We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog. Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week :: Grandpa + Cpt. Mack Ribbon Tie Closure

January 23, 2017

Today I have for you a simple hack that can be applied to either the Patterns for Pirates women’s Grandpa Cardi or the youth version, the Cpt. Mack’s Cardigan. This mod is simple but it adds so much to the overall look! There are a few different ways that you could approach this; but grab your pattern and follow along the tutorial below to find out how I like to add a ribbon tie closure to the Cpt. Mack and Grandpa Cardigans.

For this tutorial I am using some simple satin and mesh ribbon to coordinate with my rayon spandex lined loose weave sweater knit Cpt. Mack.

Step 1: Sew up your cardigan, stopping just before attachment of the collar.

Step 2: Iron on some interfacing along the inside of the collar where the buttonholes will be stitched. This will provide some stability to your knit and to prevent the holes from being stretched out with use. I know my kids aren’t gentle with their clothes!

Step 3: Now sew your collar onto the cardigan as directed by the pattern tutorial.

Step 4: Mark on the overlapping band (with pins) where you would like your bows to be located. I used two bows for my daughters size 2T tunic length cardigan. The width of the chosen ribbon should be considered when deciding how many bows to use as well. Now mark the corresponding location on the under lapping band.

Step 5: Use your machine to create buttonholes on the overlapping band locations. For this I used my automatic buttonhole presser foot. If you haven’t yet used your buttonhole foot I highly suggest reading your manual or searching YouTube for a quick video. These make it super simple! If you do not have a buttonhole setting and foot option on your machine you can certainly use a zigzag stitch to create one yourself. Follow along Judy’s Carefree Cardigan Button blog post to see how she likes to create a buttonhole in that circumstance. Once the buttonhole is stitched, it’s time to very carefully cut them open with your seam ripper.

Step 6: Next, use your ribbon to tie a bow to the size of your liking. Trim the ribbon tails a little longer than desired to allow for some wiggle room as we construct this. Untie your bow and cut an additional piece equal in length for as many bows as you would like to attach.

Step 7: Find the center of each piece of ribbon and secure it to the under lapping band at the pin locations. Sew a straight stitch vertically down the centerline of the ribbon to attach it to the cardigan. I stitched mine on along the left side of the band. This allows the overlapping band to fully cross over once tied.

Step 8: Pull one end of each ribbon through its corresponding buttonhole and tie into bows once again, closing the cardigan front. Once all of your bows are tied you can trim the tails to the desired lengths. If you prefer these to be permanent bows you can certainly hand stitch them so that they may not come untied.

Step 9: If you have used a ribbon that frays easily, use a lighter to gently melt each ribbon end or some Fray Check to seal the weave. Be careful to use the heat from the flame and not the flame itself. If you mess up, no worries! Simply trim off the tip of the ribbon tail and try again.

There you have it. All done!

Keep your eyes peeled for some other fun tutorials the ladies at Patterns for Pirates have prepared for you this week! Be sure to read all the way to the end of this post to find out how to participate in this week’s sewing contest!

-Kelly Bailey

P4P Blog Contributor

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems and Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

Between tomorrow and Saturday, January 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates cardigan using one of our hacks, or by keeping the pattern as-is. Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag #P4PCardiWeek. We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog. Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week:: Butterfly Ruffle

January 22, 2017

Last week we released the Butterfly Cardigan, the mini version of the Cocoon Cardigan and is so cute on the younger girls. In case you missed the round up post, check it out HERE. To add some extra girly details to the Butterfly, we thought why not add a ruffle? We’ve had a similar cardigan pinned as inspiration for awhile so here’s our take on it.

The construction of the main cardigan (body, lower sleeve and cuffs (if chosen) remains the same, however, you will need to cut longer neckbands. You will then ruffle the band and attach in the same manner as you do for the original cardigan. Depending on the thickness of the fabric you are using, you will want to adjust the amount you multiply the band measurements by. I used a thinner rayon French Terry spandex so went with 2.5 times the band measurements listed in the cut chart of the tutorial. Use 2.5 to 3 times the width for thinner fabrics (rayon spandex, cotton lycra, etc) and 2 to 2.5 times the width for thicker fabrics (sweater knits and French Terry).

My original width measurements for a size 2 are as follows: Cropped front band: 31.5″ / Cropped back band: 13″ – Multiply by 2.5
My ruffle width measurements are as follows: Cropped front band: 78.75″ / Cropped back band: 32.5″. Since most knits are only 58″-60″ wide I will need to piece my front band so I chose to divide in half so will have equal pieces. I will now cut 2 front bands 39.5″ (I rounded up for the simplicity of cutting). Use the same length as indicated in the pattern. ( I added 1/2″ to mine but in hindsight should have kept it to the original 4″ for her size. The top neck tends to flop backwards too much with the weight of the extra height and ruffle.)

CREATING THE RUFFLE

1. Stitch short ends of front and back bands, creating a circle.

2. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press. Mark the midpoint of front and back bands. This will make it easier to match and attach your ruffle to the cardigan.

3. Stitch a gathering/basting stitch (set your stitch length to the longest possible on your machine) at 3/8″ and 5/8″ from raw edge. Do not skip out on the second row of stitches. I promise, that extra step is worth it! You will have more even gathers and if one line of stitching breaks you have a backup without having to redo them. I also like to gather in shorter sections so will stop and start at each seam of the band. Be sure to leave a thread tail for easy pulling later.

4. Match raw edges and align the side seams of the cardigan to the seam of the band. Pin/Clip in place. Match raw edges and align the seam of the front neckband to center back neckline. Pin/Clip in place.

5. Pull gathering/basting stitch (top threads) to gather band to match the length of the cardigan. *Tip: once your gather reaches desired length, tie off your thread tails. It will help keep the gather in tact while you even them out. Continue gathering each section until your band is completely gathered. Pin/Clip in place.

6. Stitch your band to your cardigan body. Flip down, press and top-stitch (if desired).

If the Butterfly Cardigan wasn’t already cute enough as it is, this surely made it! Now add it to your cart and make your very own Butterfly Cardigan for your little! 😉