Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Fierce Bra SAL day 7

Thank you for joining us this past week! It is time to announce our Fierce Bra SAL winners so without further ado…

Congratulations Tiffany Nash! Tiffany won a $20 gift certificate to Patterns for Pirates and a $25 gift card to The Styled Magnolia Custom Fabrics.

 

Our second winner is Andrea Opalewski! Andrea will receive a $20 gift card from Made for Mermaids as well as a $25 card to The Styled Magnolia.

Huge THANK YOU to our Sew Along sponsor for not only providing the prizes but also the fabric I used for my own Fierce Bra and Peg Legs.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Fierce Bra SAL day 6

You did it! Last sewing day of the Fierce Bra SAL is here! Today we are attaching the under bust elastic and of course showing off our custom made bras. Whether you went for more of a loungewear bra and used cotton spandex or preferred an actual, medium impact sports bra and used athletic knit, your waistband will be plush (or underwear) elastic.

You can “get away” with 3/4-1″ elastic if you are using cotton lycra. However, if you would like a sports bra that will be good for workouts, use 1.5-2″ plus elastic. If you have sewn the Youth Fierce Bra you can use 3/4 or 1″ plush elastic.

 

Here is the last sew along video. Take a look over it and post your completed Fierce Bra in the comments of the day 6 photo of the sew along album. Of course you are welcome to brag in the main P4P group too 🙂 Great job, everyone!

 

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Fierce Bra SAL day 5

 

Good morning! Today we are adding the FOE shoulder straps. Start by marking your straps front and back notches. Do not skip this step! Sew one strap in a loop. Match the front notch to the front pick up and the back notch to the back pick up. Pin in place. You will stretch the FOE to match the armscye.

Day 5 video is posted below. Once you add both shoulder straps post a picture of the completed steps in the comments of “day 5” photo of the Fierce Bra sew along album.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Fierce Bra SAL day 4

Good morning, pirates and mermaids! Today’s step is attaching the FOE to the front of the neckline and the overlapping back. It is highly important to triple check that the fold over elastic ends are not twisted when attach them to the back of the bra.

Make sure you mark your notches (center and pick ups) on the FOE as the center fold over elastic part is smaller than the front curve. You will be stretching the elastic to match the neckline.

Below is today’s video. Once you finish your steps post a picture in the comments of day 4 photo of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the Sew Along group.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Fierce Bra SAL day 3

Let’s start sewing! On day 3 we sew the inner lining to the lining piece and sew the side seams on both the main and the lining. The youth Fierce Bra does not include a “cups” option however, Angela showed us in the release hacks blog how to add cups to the youth bra. You can check it out here. If you would like to sew one of the hacks during this sew along, your entry will still count for the prizes 🙂

If you opted out of the cups, you will only have lining and main and your steps today will be just sewing the side seams…super duper easy! 

Take a look over the day three video below and post  picture of your progress in the comments of day 3  picture of the Fierce Bra SAL album.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Fierce Bra SAL day 2

Welcome to day 2 of our Fierce Bra sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. To make the Fierce Bra you will need athletic knit or cotton spandex fabric, 1″ Fold Over Elastic (FOE), 3/4″ – 2″ plush waistband elastic and optionally power mesh or cups.

For my Fierce Bra I decided to go with a gorgeous athletic knit I got from The Styled Magnolia. I am using solid purple supplex, also from TSM, for lining and a nude swim for the inner lining. I am using 1″ FOE and 1.5″ plus elastic, both from Amazon.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Fierce Bra SAL day 1

 

Welcome to the Fierce Bra

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Fierce Bra here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth Fierce Bra can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group to be able to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group, in the comments of each daily picture.

This sew along is sponsored by The Styled Magnolia who specializes in non inspired custom fabric. They offer a variety of athletic knits that make the most perfect Fierce Bras. Our two lucky winners will each get a gift card to shop TSM fabric.

Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size(s). The Fierce Bra (adult) pattern includes pieces for Full Bust and Small but so if your full bust is 1 size bigger or smaller than the over bust and under bust measurement you can use the FBA or SBA pattern piece. You will still need to grade if your full bust varies by more than one size from the under/over bust size.

P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for bust/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

P4P University- Pants and Their Wrinkles

We get a lot of questions about fitting, wrinkles and pull lines and how to fix those when sewing for different body types.  Pants seem to cause a lot of anxiety for some sewists when it comes to the crotch area and the lines they can see there, but it isn’t too complicated as it seems.

First, lets talk about wrinkles and pull lines in general.  You will never have a garment that will never have any in any position.  Meaning a garment is drafted and fitted to look great in one main position (usually standing up straight with feet slightly apart for pants).  So, if you’re only getting wrinkles or pull lines when moving a certain way don’t worry! A garment can’t be perfectly drafted and fitted to every movement you’re going to be in.  I often see that sewists are worried about this though… “I have wrinkles when I sit” is a very common plea for help… but the truth is you should! You need that extra length when you’re standing and it will wrinkle or bunch when you’re not using that length when sitting.

 

But, if you’re fitting pants and you’re having wrinkles or pull lines when just standing straight then you’ll want to alter the pattern for a better fit.  Lets go over some wrinkles and pull lines and what you would need to do to fix them.  I have the issue on the left, followed by how you would alter the pattern in the middle, and to the right what your new pattern piece will look like against the old one (old pattern in pink and new altered in black).

When you have wrinkles this indicates that you have too much fabric somewhere and it is bunching up.  Pinching out the excess will show you exactly where the extra fabric is coming from usually and if it is horizontal, vertical, or both that needs to be taken out.

When you have pull lines this indicates that there is not enough fabric somewhere and it is straining.  If you’re unsure you can unpick to let the tension out and see if the lines go away.  The gap that your seam spreads would be the amount your pattern needs to not strain.  You can unpick along the side seam to check for horizontal pulling or along the top waistband for vertical.  You might need both as well if you’re getting bias pulling.

The same goes for booty with wrinkling vs pull lines and vertical vs horiztonal.   But, I wanted to touch on a common fit issue I see asked about, which is pulling under the bum.  This is generally when your booty is a bit lower then the pant is drafted for.  Lowering the booty curve will help elevate that straining and pull lines.

 

Pants aren’t all that scary 🙂 Once you learn the basics you can alter the pattern for your perfect fit easily!  Good luck!

SOS Knit Pants -easy hacks

Not only did the SOS Knit Pants get a facelift but we also released the mini version and added a few easy hacks. Here are some of the P4P team’s favorite mods you can do to get even more looks.

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Moto Hack

 

The SOS Knit Pants have been around awhile and there seems to be a never-ending request for a Moto style option.  With the revamp of the original pattern, we thought, what better time to take the Moto for a spin.  Rather than trying to make you figure out the pieces on your own, we decided to provide a full step by step tutorial, including pattern pieces…for FREE!  You can “purchase” the Moto Hack HERE.   These are definitely not a “quick-sew”, so be prepared to spend some time stitching all those pin-tucks, but seriously… how amazing are the final results!  (This is for the women’s version only at this time but don’t worry…we plan on releasing the same hack for the girls’ soon!)

 

 

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Contour Waistband

Admit it, you’ve been thinking about using the Peg Legs contour waistband that’s included in the free Add-On with all our pants patterns, haven’t you? Well, I have, so I wanted to show you how easy it is to replace the SOS elastic waistband with the contour one.

Cut your SOS Knit Pants fabric pieces without the elastic and the knit waistband. Print and cut the contour waistband included in the Peg Legs Add-On. Sew the knit pants and the contour waistband as instructed in their respective tutorials.

Tip: If you would like the extra tummy control you can add a layer of power mesh in between the lining and the main fabric of the contour waistband.

For my contour waistband, I used custom brushed poly so it is pretty thick. The lining is the same fabric so I did not add any power mesh.

Attach the contour waistband to the SOS pants the same way you would attach it to the Peg Legs.

Tadah! All done. All you have left to do now is enjoy your new contour waistband SOS knit pants.

Note: please note that the rise on the contour waistband SOS will finish a little higher than the original pattern.

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Shorts

SOS Knit Shorts is one of the most popular requests and probably one of the easiest modifications.  Determine your desired inseam and preferred hem allowance.  I chose to keep the 1″ hem (1/2″ folded twice) as shown in the pattern and a  5″ inseam.

Measure the length of your inseam, starting 1/2″ from the pattern line (for seam allowance) to your desired length.  Draw a horizontal line across the leg for both front and back.  Now that you have adjusted your inseam length we will make our hem gauge for the hem. Cutting the outward notch will allow the hem to lay flat once folded.  The angle of the gauge should be a mirror image of the seam just above it so that when its turned under it will lay flush.  Again, my hem allowance is 1″, if you choose to do a narrower or wider hem, you will want to make your hem gauge to match the same length of your hem allowance. This is super easy and can be done both skinny and straight leg options.  Now, you can customize your pants to any shorts length!

 

 

 

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Button/Snap Waistband

 

 

Most of the time, everyone raves about a “jean” with an elastic waistband that was accomplished with the SOS… I mean, other than leggings or sweats, what could possibly be more comfortable and look like real pants?  With a few simple steps, we’re going to transform the SOS to mimic real pants with a semi-functional waistband to give you an even more RTW jean/pant look!

 

First, add 1″ to the waistband and elastic measurements.  You’ll need that little extra so that the waistband overlaps one another.  Construct you pants as instructed in the tutorial except as follows:

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Zipper Accents

The SOS just screamed for a zipper detail so I made myself a pair using some pretty decorative lace zippers. Here’s how to achieve this look.

Print and cut the SOS knit pants pattern pieces and grab two lace zippers. I used 9″ ones. I did cut a calf length instead of the pattern’s ankle length because I had a remanent of this grey athletic fabric that I really, really wanted to use. It’s very easy to make 3/4 length SOS pants…just cut both the front and the back leg at the calf marking instead.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk, mark the top of the zipper on both the front and back side seam.

We will now be changing the construction of the pants a little. Sew the pockets and crotch curves as instructed in the tutorial. Sew the inseam next. Hem your SOS pants using a coverstitch or twin needles.

Now that the inseam and hem are done, you will sew the side seams. Using your serger or a stretch stitch sew the side seam, front and back, right sides together and STOP AT THE MARKED POINT. Using a basting stitch, sew from the marked point to the hem.

Place your zipper on the right side of the pants and pin pit n place. It is important to have the zipper teeth on the side seam.

Remove the basting stitches to make it easier to sew the zipper in place.

Using a zipper foot and a straight stitch, sew the zipper on, making sure you fold the lace under the hem.

All done! Now go to Pinterest for some more zipper skinnies inspiration, order yourself some lace zippers and get creating!

 

How’s that for more options? We hope you love the hacks as much as we do.  Sew up a pair of SOS Knit Pants using one of our hacks?  Be sure to share in the Facebook Group or tag us on Instagram (@patternsforpirates).

 

Alex, Katy & Nicole

When It Goes Against the Grain

Woven Fabrics

We make woven fabrics on a loom. The weaver strings the lengthwise threads first, and we call them the “warp”. Then threads are woven through them creating the fabric. We call these horizontal threads  the “weft” or the “woof”. We’ve named the edges of the fabric the “selvages” or “selvedges”, and we weave them more tightly to prevent fraying.

The warp creates the “straight grain” of the fabric, and the weft creates the “cross grain”.

Pattern pieces have grainlines printed on them.  They are either arrows or fold lines.

Grainline

 

When we cut a pattern out, the best way is to fold the fabric carefully on the straight grain of the fabric, lining up the selvages .  If you need to straighten the ends of your fabric, take a snip through the selvage near one end. Then pull a horizontal thread. The missing thread will create a straight line for you to cut along.

Fold Placement

Then place the pattern pieces down carefully with the grain lines on the pattern piece lined up with the straight grain of the fabric.

Finding the Straight Grain

An easy way to check if your pattern piece is “on-grain” is to measure from the line on the pattern piece to the selvages in a couple of places. The distance should be the same.

It’s important for long pattern pieces, especially something like a pant leg, to be grain perfect. If it’s not, the garment will twist, and once you cut it, there’s nothing you can do to fix it. You’ll also never be able to match stripes or plaids if you cut off-grain.

Smaller pieces like pockets, collars, cuffs, and yokes can be cut on the straight grain, the cross grain, or the bias no matter what the lines on the pattern say. The “bias” is the direction that’s 45 degrees from the straight grain. It has more drape than either the straight grain or the cross, and edges cut on the bias don’t fray.

When you cut major pieces on the bias, it’s important to cut them in opposite directions or your whole garment will twist. But it’s not important for small pieces like pockets.

How to Position Bias Cut Pieces

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can mark the bias on your pattern piece with a protractor or a quilting ruler.

Marking the Grainlines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over time fabrics cut on the cross grain will droop more than then fabric cut on the straight. It’s not a problem for something like a skirt or pants made from a border print. The droop won’t be noticeable in the normal lifetime of the garment. You might see it in heavy curtains, though.

Knit Fabrics

Technically, knit fabrics don’t have a grain, but the direction you cut your pieces out matters just as much. Big machines make knit fabric, but they work the same way we knit with yarn and needles. Some machines knit back and forth and some  knit in the round. One results in a fabric with selvage-like edges and other in a tube of fabric.

Close up of a Knit Fabric

 

 

No matter what yarn is used to create the knit fabric, the single knit process will result in a horizontal stretch in the fabric we call the “mechanical stretch”.  Fabrics that only have horizontal stretch are usually called “two-way stretch”.  The addition of elastane (Spandex, Lycra, etc.) to the yarns can create a fabric with both horizontal and vertical stretch, and it is usually described as “four-way stretch”. Whether the fabric is two-way or four-way,  the horizontal stretch should be the circumference of your garment.

Horizontal Stretch Line

While the amount of elastane in the yarns might make the fabric stretchy enough for the garment to fit you cut with the vertical stretch used as the circumference, you shouldn’t cut it that way. If the mechanical stretch in the fabric hangs vertically, you’ll get elephant knees, saggy elbows, and baggy crotches. You can use the same method for making sure your pattern is lined up so the grainlines on your pattern are parallel to the edges of your fabric that we use for wovens. Knit patterns often have the horizontal stretch line marked, too.

There’s a saying in sewing- The fabric always wins. There is probably nowhere in sewing where fighting the fabric is more futile than not paying attention to the grain.

Roberta

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