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P4P University- Waistbands

September 21, 2020

Ahoy Pirates! Today, we’re talking waistbands. We’ll cover some of the different types of waistbands that you’ll generally see in P4P patterns, the best fabrics and materials for constructing them, and some helpful tricks and tips to getting the very best results.

Types of Waistbands

There are many different types of waistbands out there in the wide world, but today I’ll cover some of the most common ones you’ll see in apparel sewing and in many P4P patterns.

First off, let’s talk about knit waistbands. These waistbands can be normal or high-rise, and are stretched to fit a garment’s waist.  Knit waistbands will need to be made with knits with excellent stretch and good recovery. You’ll want to look for fabrics like brushed polyester, cotton lycra, or cotton ribbing to make these. This type of waistband is easy to sew, with no casings, elastic or fancy stitching required. Hurray!

Generally with this type of waistband, you’ll line up the short ends of the waistband piece, right sides together, and stitch. Next, flip the waistband so the right side is up, then fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. From there, you will quarter the band with pins and attach (more on quartering waistbands and other tips later)!

 

Here, I’ve used double brushed poly to sew a knit waistband onto a pair of Peg Legs. I’ve simply attached it by stretching it evenly, and sewing it to the garment with my serger, although a sewing machine will work just as well. Make sure to use a stretch stitch, like the lightening bolt, at the longest length setting!

 

Next up, we have  tall/yoga waistbands. Yoga waistbands are made and constructed similarly to regular knit waistbands, but are simply “taller” and meant to be folded over for a even more comfortable fit. I especially like using yoga waistbands on clothing for children, as they are super comfy to wear! Brushed polyester and cotton lycra are excellent choices for these. I’ve used a yoga waistband here on a pair of Baby Bear Joggers, using brushed polyester.

 

Next,  we have enclosed elastic waistbands. Generally, this type of waistband is used for knit garments that have a little less vertical stretch or recovery and need a little “help” holding the garment up around the wearer’s waist.

To construct, you will sew together the short ends of the waistband casing, right sides together. Next fold lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Set aside. Take your elastic piece, and sew short ends together, using instructions for the specific pattern being used. Generally, you will be instructed to either overlap the two short ends and sew, or “butt up” the ends- pushing them together and sewing with a wide zig-zag stitch, but not overlapping. Next you will slip the elastic loop into your knit waistband casing, and sew together as one piece onto your garment. You may topstitch this seam afterwards, if desired.

Here, I’ve made a pair of SOS Knit Pants with an enclosed elastic waistband. Although the fabric I used was a jegging material with little vertical stretch, the added elastic I used helps give the little bit of extra “oomph” needed to keep the pants up around my waist and snug-fitting.

 

Another style of waistband you’ll see often in apparel sewing is exposed elastic waistbands. These are waistbands that you’ll see in many applications, such as athletic shorts or undergarments. These will be generally created using plush back, underwear, or soft waistband elastics. It’s important to use these types of elastic, especially for undergarments, as they are much more comfortable and soft, and elastic will be up directly against the wearer’s skin.

On patterns such as the Fierce Undies pictured here, the elastic used will be “butted” together before being sewn, not overlapped. This is because overlapping will make the exposed elastic waistband too bulky.

 

Tips and Tricks

Just as there are many different types of waistbands out there in the sewing world, there are just as many tips to make sewing them easier! Here are just a few to help you along the way:

1. With knit, yoga, and enclosed elastic waistbands, serge or baste the raw edges together once you’ve folded lengthwise, wrong sides together, and before attaching to the garment. This will essentially take those two layers of fabric of the folded waistband and turn them into one, making it easier to attach them to the garment in a clean and professional-looking way. Remember, if you serge the raw edges of your waistband before attaching it to your garment, DO NOT CUT ANY OFF!

2. ALWAYS quarter your waistbands before attaching them to a garment! What is quartering? It’s equally dividing the waistband into fourths, so you can better ensure that the waistband will be evenly stretched across the garment’s waist.  It’s easy to do:

 First, sew the waistband or elastic together at the short ends, as directed by the pattern. Pin or mark the point of the seam.

Next,  fold in half to find the half point. Pin or mark the half point.

Now, take the two marked points (the seam and half point) and fold the waistband or elastic so that they meet in the center. Pin or mark the folded edges on either side to find the quarter points.

And there you have an evenly quartered waistband! This might sound like an extra step, but trust me, it’s one that will save you time by                          ensuring that you don’t have an unevenly stretched waistband (hello, seam ripper!) and will give you the most professional- looking finish.

 

 

3. SAVE your scraps! Especially with youth apparel, waistbands usually take very little fabric, and can be excellent scrap-busters. So next time you make something with a stretchy fabric with great recovery, make sure to stash those extras away for a rainy day!

 

That’s it for now! Just a few examples of some of the waistbands you’ll encounter while sewing some gorgeous, handmade apparel. No matter which waistband is required for your pattern, always make sure to quarter those bands, have fun, and share your beautiful makes with us over at Patterns for Pirates’ Facebook page!

Caitlin

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, P4P University, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 7

December 4, 2019


Thank you for joining us this past week! It is time to announce our Fierce Bra SAL winners so without further ado…

Congratulations Tiffany Nash! Tiffany won a $20 gift certificate to Patterns for Pirates and a $25 gift card to The Styled Magnolia Custom Fabrics.


 

Our second winner is Andrea Opalewski! Andrea will receive a $20 gift card from Made for Mermaids as well as a $25 card to The Styled Magnolia.


Huge THANK YOU to our Sew Along sponsor for not only providing the prizes but also the fabric I used for my own Fierce Bra and Peg Legs.



Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 6

November 30, 2019


You did it! Last sewing day of the Fierce Bra SAL is here! Today we are attaching the under bust elastic and of course showing off our custom made bras. Whether you went for more of a loungewear bra and used cotton spandex or preferred an actual, medium impact sports bra and used athletic knit, your waistband will be plush (or underwear) elastic.

You can “get away” with 3/4-1″ elastic if you are using cotton lycra. However, if you would like a sports bra that will be good for workouts, use 1.5-2″ plus elastic. If you have sewn the Youth Fierce Bra you can use 3/4 or 1″ plush elastic.


 

Here is the last sew along video. Take a look over it and post your completed Fierce Bra in the comments of the day 6 photo of the sew along album. Of course you are welcome to brag in the main P4P group too 🙂 Great job, everyone!

 

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 5

November 29, 2019

 


Good morning! Today we are adding the FOE shoulder straps. Start by marking your straps front and back notches. Do not skip this step! Sew one strap in a loop. Match the front notch to the front pick up and the back notch to the back pick up. Pin in place. You will stretch the FOE to match the armscye.

Day 5 video is posted below. Once you add both shoulder straps post a picture of the completed steps in the comments of “day 5” photo of the Fierce Bra sew along album.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 4

November 28, 2019


Good morning, pirates and mermaids! Today’s step is attaching the FOE to the front of the neckline and the overlapping back. It is highly important to triple check that the fold over elastic ends are not twisted when attach them to the back of the bra.

Make sure you mark your notches (center and pick ups) on the FOE as the center fold over elastic part is smaller than the front curve. You will be stretching the elastic to match the neckline.

Below is today’s video. Once you finish your steps post a picture in the comments of day 4 photo of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the Sew Along group.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 3

November 27, 2019


Let’s start sewing! On day 3 we sew the inner lining to the lining piece and sew the side seams on both the main and the lining. The youth Fierce Bra does not include a “cups” option however, Angela showed us in the release hacks blog how to add cups to the youth bra. You can check it out here. If you would like to sew one of the hacks during this sew along, your entry will still count for the prizes 🙂

If you opted out of the cups, you will only have lining and main and your steps today will be just sewing the side seams…super duper easy! 

Take a look over the day three video below and post  picture of your progress in the comments of day 3  picture of the Fierce Bra SAL album.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 2

November 26, 2019


Welcome to day 2 of our Fierce Bra sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. To make the Fierce Bra you will need athletic knit or cotton spandex fabric, 1″ Fold Over Elastic (FOE), 3/4″ – 2″ plush waistband elastic and optionally power mesh or cups.

For my Fierce Bra I decided to go with a gorgeous athletic knit I got from The Styled Magnolia. I am using solid purple supplex, also from TSM, for lining and a nude swim for the inner lining. I am using 1″ FOE and 1.5″ plus elastic, both from Amazon.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos 1 Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 1

November 25, 2019

 


Welcome to the Fierce Bra

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Fierce Bra here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth Fierce Bra can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group to be able to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group, in the comments of each daily picture.


This sew along is sponsored by The Styled Magnolia who specializes in non inspired custom fabric. They offer a variety of athletic knits that make the most perfect Fierce Bras. Our two lucky winners will each get a gift card to shop TSM fabric.



Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size(s). The Fierce Bra (adult) pattern includes pieces for Full Bust and Small but so if your full bust is 1 size bigger or smaller than the over bust and under bust measurement you can use the FBA or SBA pattern piece. You will still need to grade if your full bust varies by more than one size from the under/over bust size.

P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for bust/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos 5 Comments

P4P University- Pants and Their Wrinkles

May 14, 2019

We get a lot of questions about fitting, wrinkles and pull lines and how to fix those when sewing for different body types.  Pants seem to cause a lot of anxiety for some sewists when it comes to the crotch area and the lines they can see there, but it isn’t too complicated as it seems.

First, lets talk about wrinkles and pull lines in general.  You will never have a garment that will never have any in any position.  Meaning a garment is drafted and fitted to look great in one main position (usually standing up straight with feet slightly apart for pants).  So, if you’re only getting wrinkles or pull lines when moving a certain way don’t worry! A garment can’t be perfectly drafted and fitted to every movement you’re going to be in.  I often see that sewists are worried about this though… “I have wrinkles when I sit” is a very common plea for help… but the truth is you should! You need that extra length when you’re standing and it will wrinkle or bunch when you’re not using that length when sitting.

 

But, if you’re fitting pants and you’re having wrinkles or pull lines when just standing straight then you’ll want to alter the pattern for a better fit.  Lets go over some wrinkles and pull lines and what you would need to do to fix them.  I have the issue on the left, followed by how you would alter the pattern in the middle, and to the right what your new pattern piece will look like against the old one (old pattern in pink and new altered in black).

When you have wrinkles this indicates that you have too much fabric somewhere and it is bunching up.  Pinching out the excess will show you exactly where the extra fabric is coming from usually and if it is horizontal, vertical, or both that needs to be taken out.


When you have pull lines this indicates that there is not enough fabric somewhere and it is straining.  If you’re unsure you can unpick to let the tension out and see if the lines go away.  The gap that your seam spreads would be the amount your pattern needs to not strain.  You can unpick along the side seam to check for horizontal pulling or along the top waistband for vertical.  You might need both as well if you’re getting bias pulling.


The same goes for booty with wrinkling vs pull lines and vertical vs horiztonal.   But, I wanted to touch on a common fit issue I see asked about, which is pulling under the bum.  This is generally when your booty is a bit lower then the pant is drafted for.  Lowering the booty curve will help elevate that straining and pull lines.

 

Pants aren’t all that scary 🙂 Once you learn the basics you can alter the pattern for your perfect fit easily!  Good luck!

Filed Under: Fitting Leave a Comment

SOS Knit Pants -easy hacks

November 16, 2018

Not only did the SOS Knit Pants get a facelift but we also released the mini version and added a few easy hacks. Here are some of the P4P team’s favorite mods you can do to get even more looks.

…..

Moto Hack

 

The SOS Knit Pants have been around awhile and there seems to be a never-ending request for a Moto style option.  With the revamp of the original pattern, we thought, what better time to take the Moto for a spin.  Rather than trying to make you figure out the pieces on your own, we decided to provide a full step by step tutorial, including pattern pieces…for FREE!  You can “purchase” the Moto Hack HERE.   These are definitely not a “quick-sew”, so be prepared to spend some time stitching all those pin-tucks, but seriously… how amazing are the final results!  (This is for the women’s version only at this time but don’t worry…we plan on releasing the same hack for the girls’ soon!)

Jeggings

 


 

…..

Contour Waistband

Admit it, you’ve been thinking about using the Peg Legs contour waistband that’s included in the free Add-On with all our pants patterns, haven’t you? Well, I have, so I wanted to show you how easy it is to replace the SOS elastic waistband with the contour one.

Cut your SOS Knit Pants fabric pieces without the elastic and the knit waistband. Print and cut the contour waistband included in the Peg Legs Add-On. Sew the knit pants and the contour waistband as instructed in their respective tutorials.

Tip: If you would like the extra tummy control you can add a layer of power mesh in between the lining and the main fabric of the contour waistband.

For my contour waistband, I used custom brushed poly so it is pretty thick. The lining is the same fabric so I did not add any power mesh.

Attach the contour waistband to the SOS pants the same way you would attach it to the Peg Legs.

Tadah! All done. All you have left to do now is enjoy your new contour waistband SOS knit pants.

Note: please note that the rise on the contour waistband SOS will finish a little higher than the original pattern.

…..

Shorts


SOS Knit Shorts is one of the most popular requests and probably one of the easiest modifications.  Determine your desired inseam and preferred hem allowance.  I chose to keep the 1″ hem (1/2″ folded twice) as shown in the pattern and a  5″ inseam.

Measure the length of your inseam, starting 1/2″ from the pattern line (for seam allowance) to your desired length.  Draw a horizontal line across the leg for both front and back.  Now that you have adjusted your inseam length we will make our hem gauge for the hem. Cutting the outward notch will allow the hem to lay flat once folded.  The angle of the gauge should be a mirror image of the seam just above it so that when its turned under it will lay flush.  Again, my hem allowance is 1″, if you choose to do a narrower or wider hem, you will want to make your hem gauge to match the same length of your hem allowance. This is super easy and can be done both skinny and straight leg options.  Now, you can customize your pants to any shorts length!

 

 

 

…..

Button/Snap Waistband

 

 

Most of the time, everyone raves about a “jean” with an elastic waistband that was accomplished with the SOS… I mean, other than leggings or sweats, what could possibly be more comfortable and look like real pants?  With a few simple steps, we’re going to transform the SOS to mimic real pants with a semi-functional waistband to give you an even more RTW jean/pant look!

 

First, add 1″ to the waistband and elastic measurements.  You’ll need that little extra so that the waistband overlaps one another.  Construct you pants as instructed in the tutorial except as follows:

Starting 3/4″ from the top edge, stitch front crotch seam.
If you choose to finish the raw edge of the faux fly, finish each separately and do not sew together.
With wrong side facing up, press faux fly to wearer’s left and fold the top fly piece wrong sides together 3/8″.
Top stitch faux fly, being careful not to catch the portion of the faux fly piece you previously folded.

Complete construction of the main pants as shown in the tutorial.
Fold waistband right sides together.

Aligning the elastic with the folded edge of the waistband, pin or clip in place at each end.
Stitch with 1/4″ seam allowance along short end.
Turn waistband right side out.
Find center of waistband.

Match center of waistband with back center seam of pants.
Match the waistband with the center from seamline. The top fly will be folded and not stitched here.
Continue pinning waistband to pants.
Stitch.

Add a snap or button and top-stitch fly closed along the center seam.

Jacquard

…..

Zipper Accents

The SOS just screamed for a zipper detail so I made myself a pair using some pretty decorative lace zippers. Here’s how to achieve this look.

Print and cut the SOS knit pants pattern pieces and grab two lace zippers. I used 9″ ones. I did cut a calf length instead of the pattern’s ankle length because I had a remanent of this grey athletic fabric that I really, really wanted to use. It’s very easy to make 3/4 length SOS pants…just cut both the front and the back leg at the calf marking instead.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk, mark the top of the zipper on both the front and back side seam.

We will now be changing the construction of the pants a little. Sew the pockets and crotch curves as instructed in the tutorial. Sew the inseam next. Hem your SOS pants using a coverstitch or twin needles.

Now that the inseam and hem are done, you will sew the side seams. Using your serger or a stretch stitch sew the side seam, front and back, right sides together and STOP AT THE MARKED POINT. Using a basting stitch, sew from the marked point to the hem.

Place your zipper on the right side of the pants and pin pit n place. It is important to have the zipper teeth on the side seam.

Remove the basting stitches to make it easier to sew the zipper in place.

Using a zipper foot and a straight stitch, sew the zipper on, making sure you fold the lace under the hem.

All done! Now go to Pinterest for some more zipper skinnies inspiration, order yourself some lace zippers and get creating!

 

How’s that for more options? We hope you love the hacks as much as we do.  Sew up a pair of SOS Knit Pants using one of our hacks?  Be sure to share in the Facebook Group or tag us on Instagram (@patternsforpirates).

 

Alex, Katy & Nicole

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Pattern Hacks, Pattern Release, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos 7 Comments

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