Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

New Pattern Releases :: Sunflower Swim Top + Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!

To help your summer go swimmingly well (ba-dum-ching!) we are bringing you a brand new set of swimwear tops and bottoms!  And we couldn’t be more excited about sharing them with you all.  In both adult and youth sizes, we are happy to introduce you to the Sunflower Swim Top and the Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!  For both of these patterns, the youth sizes range from 3m – 14.  And the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X!  If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

Okay, now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s start first by telling you all about the Sunflower Swim Top, shall we?

The Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will have your swimsuit drawer full in no time with a variety of looks! You can mix and match with your tops easily, depending on your mood or where and who you’re going swimming with!  In case you’re feeling like you want more coverage, you can grab the high rise and brief options.  But in the event that you’re feeling like baring it all for less obtrusive tan lanes…go for the cheeky and low rise. Or you can pick between those two with a mid-rise, which hits just below the belly button.  Mix in some ruching at the side seams for a fun detail. These bottoms are very simple and quick to make with the waistline and leglines hemmed under with swim elastic. You can also choose to partially line or fully line.

Options include: low rise, mid rise, high rise, cheeky booty cutline (adult only), brief booty cutline, ruched side seams, partially lined or fully lined.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like adding/removing length, complete sew ups of ruched, plain, partially and fully lined bottoms.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

SUNFLOWER BACK FINISHES

SUNFLOWER TOP HEMS

SUNFLOWER NECKLINES

BUSY BEE RISES

BUSY BEE LEG LINES (ADULT ONLY)

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of these swim separates!  The Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will be on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 5, 2020.

Don’t see the perfect bundle for the patterns you’d like to buy? Don’t forget you can always make your own bundle!

SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – YOUTH | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – BUNDLE
BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – YOUTH | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sunflower Swim Album | Busy Bee Swim Album | Sunflower Swim Youth Album | Busy Bee Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Sunflower Swim Top Easy Hacks Blog Post!

Sunflower and Busy Bee Easy Hacks

It’s swimsuit season! The new Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms are the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. Dana is showing you below how to make a longer ruffle while Rachel is taking the Sunflower Top and making is shorter. Enjoy these cute easy hacks! 

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Longer Ruffle

This is a really easy hack if you want a little extra tummy coverage or just want the look of a longer ruffle. 

Cut out all your pattern pieces as usual but when you come to the ruffle you will cut it a little differently. First of all you will want to decide how wide you want your ruffle to be.

I measured the original piece which is 2 inches wide and I decided that I wanted to increase this to 5 inches wide.

I simply laid my perspex quilting ruler out over the pattern piece and used it to help cut out the original length and the increased width. 

Here is my finished ruffle.  Measuring 5 inches wide, in comparison to the original pattern piece.

Then just sew it together as usual. Easy peasy! 

Happy sewing! Love, Dana x

 

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Shorter Top

Forget the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-yellow-polka-dot bikini… bananas are so much more fun!

Here’s how you modify the pattern for Sunflower Swim Top if you’d like to sport a shorter length. You’ll be modifying the pattern pieces, but the actual construction of the top will follow the pattern instructions as written.

You’ll need the front and back pattern pieces and the shelf bra pattern piece.

With both the front and the back pieces, it is most important to preserve the curves at the bottom of the pieces. You’ll see how I did that in the pictures provided.

Cut the back piece into thirds as indicated in the photo below. You’ll be discarding the center piece.

Take the top and bottom thirds and line up the bottoms of the cut-out curve, where you see the green line in the pic. Tape together. I added a little snipe of paper, where the green circle is, to help visually with cutting my fabric.

And that completes your new back pattern piece.

Line up your front and back pattern pieces and mark the bottom of the back piece on your front piece. This will ensure that your front and back pieces line up when you’re constructing the top.

Place your shelf bra pattern piece on top of your front pattern piece and line up the “fold” edges. The left edge of the shelf bra piece should intersect the mark you made on the previous step.

Trace the bottom edge of the shelf bra and cut along this line to create your new front piece.

Once you have your pattern pieces ready, construct your top with the instructions provided. You can even work in a shelf bra at this length if you desire.

Isn’t sewing for yourself so much fun? I can’t wait to rock these bananas at the pool!

 

Rachel

Which one of these hacks will you try first? As always, post your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group so we all get a chance to admire them. 

Runabout Romper – easy hacks

It’s here! It’s here! The Runabout Romper and Dress patterns (adult and youth) and jam packed with option but we couldn’t let this release pass without adding a few more. The P4P bloggers will show you how to make separate pieces, paperbag shorts, looser pants, slimmer shorts, button front and tunic length. Let’s take a look! 

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Separates 

 

I absolutely fell in love with the off the shoulder neckline of the  Runabout Romper but wanted it in shirt form for non-romper days.  So, of course, an easy hack was needed and I now have the coziest sweatshirt ever.   It’s so easy to do!   First, start by printing just your top pieces, putting together, and cutting them out. 

Now you are going to want to turn them into full-length top pieces.   To do this, first- add a few blank pieces to the bottom of your pattern piece lined up along your fold line. 

Then go ahead and grab your favorite p4p top that has the length you want, I chose the banded sporty piko.   Alternatively, you can measure from your natural waist to where you’d like it to hit (don’t forget to take in account the seam allowance built in the waist).  

Lay the top of your chosen pattern piece on top of your romper top piece lining up your shoulder and the side seam (your actual widths may be different).  

Make sure your pieces are straight and trace the bottom of your piece to get the length you want for your top and up the side of your piece. Repeat with the other piece and cut out along where you traced and you’ll have two new full-length shirt pieces. 

Sew together as directed by the pattern and either hem your top or if you are banding your shirt you’ll simply measure the bottom of your new top all the way around and multiply that by .85 plus seam allowance to get the width of your new band.  I can’t wait to see your cozy shirts!! 

Happy Sewing, 

Michelle

 

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Paperbag Shorts

 

I absolutely love the paperbag waist trend that is so popular right now! The cinching is universally flattering for all figures.

Once you’ve mastered the Runabout Romper waistband, you can easily turn the pattern bottoms into pants or shorts with this cute ruffle feature. And I’m here to show you how to do it!

Start by cutting the bottom pieces to your preferred length. I’ve decided to make shorts for this tutorial.

Sew the pants or shorts pieces together per the pattern instructions.

Now for your waistband…

Add an inch in height when you cut your waistband pieces… instead of 2” tall waistband pieces, yours will be 3” tall.

If installing grommets, you will mark your fabric and add those to your outer waistband where indicated by the pattern piece.

Next, take your inner waistband piece and stitch with right sides together, stopping 1” above the bottom of the band. Press the seams to one side.

This opening will become your entry point when you install your elastic waistband.

Stitch your inner and outer waistband pieces, right sides together, along the top edge per the pattern instructions.

Open with right sides out, wrong sides together, and press your top seam to the inside. You may wish to topstitch this edge for a crisper finish.

Sew a second seam 1” down from the top edge.

Sew your waistband to your shorts or pants per the pattern instructions and complete your bottoms accordingly. Enjoy!!!

I’ve paired my shorts here with a Hepburn top. Cute, cute, cute!!

 

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Tunic/top 

 

Hi, I’m going to show you how easy it is to make the new Runabout Romper as a tunic/top instead of a dress. 

First of all you will want to decide how long you want to have the skirt portion, as this is going to determine how long your top is. You could make the bodice first and attach the waistband onto it (just safety pin your elastic together to try on) and measure how far you would like the front of your top to come down, or you could just be brave and guestimate. 

 In this picture you can see I’m wearing my Runabout Romper dress, which was perfect because I could use the waistband on it to help gauge how long I wanted the top to be.  There are two ways to make your top, either with a straight hem or keeping the curve of the dress hem. I chose to keep the curve. Hold the front skirt pattern piece up to your body and make a mark when it’s at the right height, don’t forget you’ll need to add a combined 1 1/2″ for the seam allowance at the waist and the hem allowance.

Using the mark I just made on the paper at the fold line, I then measure and make the same mark at the other side of the pattern piece at the outside seam line and rule a line across. For me, this mark was 10 inches down from the top edge of the pattern piece. Then repeat for the back piece. Fold the top of both pieces down (you might need to flip a corner out of the way by the curved hem edge) and you have your new top length pattern pieces. 

If you want a straight hem to your top, you  just have to fold the bottom of the pattern piece up to get rid of the curve, rather than the top of the pattern piece down to keep the curve.

Cut your fabric out using your new pattern pieces and construct as per the Tutorial. 

Enjoy!

Dana xx

 

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Slimmer fit shorts

 

The jogger shorts are some of my favorite shorts. They’re fitted but not too fitted–they have the perfect amount of ease in my humble opinion and as we enter the hot summer, they were screaming to be added to this romper! It’s such a super easy hack that you’ll be cranking out Runabout Jogger Short Rompers super fast. 

Let’s get into it!

  1. Print out your bodice option and the jogger patterns. 
  2. Decide what you’d like your inseam to be and add .5 in for the seam allowance. I did a 4″ inseam here so I measured out 4.5″ from the crotch curve. Draw a line from the inseam to the outseam. Do this on both the front and back pieces.
  3. Cut the new pattern piece.
  4. Assemble per the instructions. 
  5. Enjoy your super cute and cool new romper!

                                                                        …..                                                                      

Straight pants

 

I absolutely love the look of a wide-leg jumpsuit, and this hack gives me exactly the look I’ve been looking for! 

First off, we need to make our new pant leg pattern pieces using the existing front and back shorts pieces. I laid mine on top of the jogger legs as a guide for length. Using a straight edge and marker, I drew a straight line down from either side of the shorts pieces, ending 3 1/2” below where the jogger piece ended (this is to account for the added length of the jogger cuff). After doing this for both front and back pieces, you now are ready to cut out your new wide-legged pants!

Sew up the romper as directed, hemming pant legs 1”. Now take a step back and admire your new trendy jumpsuit!                                                                                                                                                     

                                                                                                                  

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Faux buttons placket

 

Inspired once again by Pintrest and a photo Katy showed me, I made myself a faux button up Runabout romper. Want to see how I did it? Keep reading! 

I cut the pieces exactly as in the pattern, except for the front bodice. The front bodice will not be cut on fold but will be two mirrored images. Using a ruler, add 1.5″ extra width to the center of the front bodice. Cut two mirror images!

If you are using a projector, like I am, simply place a ruler along the fold line to measure the 1.5″. Cut along the ruler for the center bodice. 

Turn the two bodice pieces wrong side up and fold 1/2″ along the center, press. Fold again another half an inch and press again. If you are adding faux buttons like I am, you don’t really need interfacing. If you plan on adding real buttons and make buttonholes, or add snaps then you should add a 1/2″ wide strip of interfacing along both sides of the front bodice. 

Sew the folded hems down with a scant 1/2″ seam allowance. 

Time to make the neckband. Fold it in half width wise and then again length wise. Curve the raw edge as shown below. You will now have a long necknand, Henley style. Fold it again along the length and press. 

 

Overlap the center fold of the bodice 1/2″ and pin it in place. You will now treat that piece as the front bodice from the pattern. Sew the dress or romper as in the tutorial. Pin the neckband starting with back center and working your way to the two fronts. Sew in place with 1/2″ seam allowance using a stretch stitch or your serger.  

Now it’s the time to decide if you want a real button up or just the look of one. The buttons do not need to be functional, they can be there just for looks. I have sewn the buttons through all layers about 1.5″ away from each other. The top button is only attached to one side, just a personal style preference. Super easy! If you would like functional closures you will sew buttons on one side and button holes on the other. 

All done!! Time to enjoy your new romper! 

Hope you enjoyed these easy mods to the Runabout pattern as much as we enjoyed making them for you. Don’t forget to show off your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group or #p4p on Instagram so we can admire them too. 

New Pattern Release :: Runabout Romper + Dress!

I’m excited to share the newest P4P pattern with everyone!  Right now, so many of us are trying to find a little more peace of mind.  Trust us, we are too.  So we thought it would be the perfect time to add some stylish “secret pajamas” to everyone’s closets. Who doesn’t love being comfortable and also love feeling cute too?! The Runabout Romper & Dress will give you both with a quick easy sew.

With this loose, slouchy fit, you’ll be comfortable all day.  But we made sure to mix in some extra style with off-the shoulder looks, high/low skirts, slitted maxi lengths, and elastic cinched waistlines that will leave you feeling pretty darn good! There are so many options that you can make a huge stack and no one will ever know you’re sewing the same pattern, on repeat!

Consider yourself to be more of a visual person?  Listen, friend.  We’ve got you covered there as well.  Our tutorial is packed full of videos, covering topics like fabric choice, sizing, mashing sizes, sewing the waistband and even a complete sew up video from start to end with with our Pirate Captain Judy!

RUNABOUT ROMPER | RUNABOUT ROMPER YOUTH | RUNABOUT ROMPER – BUNDLE

There are multiple sleeve options.  You can pick tank, dolman short sleeve, or dolman long sleeve…depending on weather.  There are also a ton of bottoms to pair with your bodice.  Enjoy choosing between a curved knee length skirt, maxi length skirt with side seam slits, a looser-fitted shorts romper, or trendy jogger romper bottoms.  With all of these options, you can add a cute faux drawstring, chest pocket, and/or slat pockets.  Trust us on the pockets — we make sure they’re “real” pockets and you can actually fit things inside of them.

The dolman bodice includes a scoop neckline with a bit lower back (which still safely covers bras) and a super fun off-the-shoulder style neckline.  The elastic waistband on every pattern option hits right at the natural waistline, allowing for a flattering silhouette.

We suggest using knits that are light-to-medium weight and have a softer drape.  Think: double brushed polyester, rayon blends, sweater knits, modal spandex blends, bamboo blends, tri-blends, french terry/rayon blends, ribbed knits, and lightweight cotton blend jerseys.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

BODICE OPTIONS: TANK, SHORT SLEEVE DOLMAN, LONG SLEEVE DOLMAN

DOLMAN NECKLINE OPTIONS: SCOOP AND OFF THE SHOULDER

DRESS OPTIONS: KNEE LENGTH AND MAXI LENGTH

ROMPER OPTIONS: SHORTS AND JOGGERS

EXTRAS: CHEST POCKET, FAUX DRAWSTRING, AND SLAT POCKETS

Whatever you do… DON’T FORGET THE POCKETS!

Whether you’re looking to lounge about in complete comfort:

Or dress it up to go out:

Ready to runabout the town house in your new digs?  Grab the patterns now!

RUNABOUT ROMPER | RUNABOUT ROMPER YOUTH | RUNABOUT ROMPER – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see a Runabout Romper + Runabout Romper – Youth album full of images of our amazing testers!

The Runabout Romper & Dress has you covered!  If you’re hoping for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Runabout Romper Easy Hacks Blog Post! I hope everyone out there is staying healthy and happy.  The Runabout Romper & Dress will be on sale (no code needed) through Friday May 29th.

And if our pattern alone doesn’t provide enough options for you, we’ve also included a blog post that will help take the Runabout Rompers to the next level!  Go check out our Easy Hacks Post to see how to make some slight alterations to the original pattern, to customize it even further!

New Pattern Release :: Classic Sports Bra!

We know that times are……something right now.  Our new normal isn’t anything remotely what normal used to mean to us.  It’s scary, lonely, wacky, busy, boring, stressful, and all of the descriptive terms you could ever lump into a couple months of life.  Let me begin by telling you that our hearts go out to everyone right now.  Our entire Pirate Crew hopes that you are safe, healthy, and maintaining whatever version of “okay” you can muster up during this moment in time.  We absolutely love our Pirate Family and we wish you all the best.  Thank you for continuing this feeling of community and camaraderie that we are all craving and deserving at this moment in time.  You have no idea how much you mean to all of us.

And with that, we were hoping to bring a little sewing excitement into your lives!  (drum roll please) :: It’s release day, y’all!  Let’s talk about the Classic Sports Bra, our newest pattern duo!

 

Right now, sports bras might be more important than they’ve ever been.  I can’t tell you how many of my friends are either completely taking advantage of their new schedule by working out more than ever before — and how many of my friends are taking advantage of their new schedule by rocking loungewear all day, every day.  Whichever version of my friends that you are, we’ve got you covered.

The Classic Sports Bra is…well…a classic sports bra!

You can create a light impact bra out of casual fabrics for lounging, sleeping, and all around comfort.  You can use an athletic knit for a light impact for yoga, walking and other lighter exercising.  You can add more support with inner-lining, removable cups, more stable athletic fabrics like supplex, using the more supportive wider under bust band for a great medium impact sports bra ready for light jogging, hiit workouts, zumba, ellipital, etc.  Anyone can find their favorite combo with racerback and straight strap options, full back or with a cut out and hook and eye bra back closure.  Lets talk a little more about that bra clasp option… it’s amazing! It’s simple to attach and makes getting the tight fit bra on and off so much easier– especially after a hot workout when you’re sweaty!! wheww!

The sizing follows our normal XXS-Plus 5X size chart, but ALSO includes both small bust and full bust adjustment pieces.  So if you find your full bust falls into a size smaller or larger then your over bust…we have you covered!  Youth sizing is 12 months to 14.

The front color-blocking is perfect for using up those beloved….hoarded? 😉 fabric scraps you have saved for the perfect project! You can make a more solid by using all the same fabrics or create a super fun combo with all different fabrics!

The tutorial includes several videos throughout the tutorial including fabric selection, size mashing for youth, sba and fba explanation for adult, piecing the front color-blocking, “burrito roll” lining method and sewing in elastic, bottom binding, attaching hook and eye bra closure and TWO complete sew ups using different options.

You will also find one more file with our new release… the Projector File.  This is a larger PDF with all pieces on the fold facing the same direction, a couple grid layers you can turn on to scale and off to cut, and one big page to scroll down as you cut.  I hope this helps all those jumping into the new trend of going paperless!

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

COLORBLOCKED FRONT

FULL BACK

BRA CLASP

STRAIGHT STRAPS

RACERBACK STRAPS

So whether you’re ready to lounge or get active… maybe a little of both… you can grab the Classic Sports Bra and be ready for it all!

CLASSIC SPORTS BRA| CLASSIC SPORTS BRA – YOUTH | CLASSIC SPORTS BRA – BUNDLE

We know times are crazy right now and a lot of us are trying to budget more- so I took the time to hunt down a few small shops that sold the hook and eye bra clasps in a variety of colors (fun!) so we could help support a small business AND I could give you all an exclusive coupon code to help if you need this supply that might not be in everyone’s stash already! <3

– Stitch Love on Etsy or her own site code p4p20 for 20% off
www.stitchlovestudio.com/

– Sasha Fox Sewing Supplies on Etsy code: PIRATES40 for 40% off
[www.etsy.com/shop/SashaFoxStudio

-Bra Makery: 30% code for the website PATTERNSFORPIRATES (only on the site not on Etsy).
www.thebramakery.com

So you if need some hook and eye bra clasps for a new Classic Sports Bra, I would love for you to support one of these small businesses that gave us a great discount!

And if our pattern alone doesn’t provide enough options for you, we’ve also included a blog post that will help take the Classic Sports Bra to the next level!  Go check out our Easy Hacks Post to see how to make some slight alterations to the original pattern, to customize it even further!

 

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Friday, May 1, 2020 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, Pirates!

Classic Sports Bra – Easy Hacks

The newest P4P pattern is a must have for work out aficionados and not only! So many options are already included but you know us, we have to add just a few more to our easy hack blog. This time, the P4P blog team will show you how to make the Classic Sports Bra with a solid front, an exposed elastic and without a clasp but still having the cut out. Let’s get started!

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Solid Front

 

 

One of my favorite attributes of the Classic Sports Bra is the colorblocked front. But let’s say you have a favorite panel or fabric that you want to show off and you rather not have 3 front pieces…create your own “one piece solid front.

 

 

Overlap the three front pieces 3/8″ as show above. The overlap will be 3/4″ – the total of the two seam allowances. Scotch tape the 3 pieces together or trace them to create a new one. Now that you created a new pattern piece, simply cut it from your main fabric and proceed to cutting all the other pieces of the pattern (back, linings, band, elastic).

Sew the bra as instructed in the tutorial and enjoy your brand new creation. Easy peasy!

For my solid front Classic Sports Bra I used cotton lycra for both the main and the lining. It makes the most comfortable lounging bra ever!!!

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Exposed Elastic

Sometimes you find cute or extra special elastic and you want to show it off! It’s a super easy modification to stitch on the elastic without the knit band so it is exposed.  If you have the Fierce Bra you can follow those instructions.  Just make sure if you’re using a hook and eye bra closure option that your elastic width coordinates perfectly with your clasp size.

I had ordered this navy elastic with silicone stripes on the underside to help it stay in place and have been wanting to try it out on a sports bra…so here was a great opportunity!  You can also find elastic with prints or words on them as well.

Sew up your bra exactly as you would until the underbust band steps.

Mark your center front of your sports bra and your center of your elastic.

Pin your elastic onto the sports bra with the top edge of the elastic 3/8″ away from the sports bra’s bottom raw edge. (Tip- I like to baste my sports bra around the bottom edge 3/8″ away so I have a clear marking to follow).  You do not need to stretch either the elastic or the sports bra at all.

Stitch the elastic in place using your favorite high stretch stitch (mine is a triple step zigzag).

If you’re using the hook and eye bra closure option attach bra clasps just the same as the tutorial.

Now enjoy!

Judy

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No Clasp, Cut Out Back

 

To create a sports bra that has the keyhole back detail, but without the bra closure, you’ll need to make one small change when cutting your pieces, and a few minor adjustments when sewing on the band.  When cutting out your pieces, you can go ahead and cut out all the front and back pieces from the main and lining as you normally would, but then you’ll need to create a new bottom band piece for the elastic casing.  The new band piece you will be using for this hack needs to be the WIDTH of the full back option band, and the LENGTH of the bra closure option band.  You can either mash the two pattern pieces together, or simply use the measurements from the cut chart. I find using the cut chart quicker and easier than mashing the two pattern pieces.  Again, make sure you use the WIDTH of the Full back piece, and the LENGTH of the bra closure piece. For the elastic, make sure you cut the elastic itself the width of the full back option as well.

After cutting, you will assemble the sports bra according to the pattern up until the point of attaching the band.  For this hack, you will take your band piece, and fold it right sides together lining up the short ends, and sew together.  I prefer to use my sewing machine so I can press the seam open and reduce bulk here.

Your band should be the same width as the bottom of the sports bra.  Using the seam as the back center point, quarter the band and mark the front center and sides.  Match up these points on the bra and mark them as well.  I also like to mark the outsides of the cutout to make sure the band gets even attached.

Slide your band inside your bra, lining up the RIGHT SIDE of the band against the lining.

 

Sew or serge your band onto the bra, sewing all the way around even across the opening to give a nice edge for folding the binding there.  After it has been sewn on, pull the band down and press seam allowance down as well.

Go ahead and stitch your elastic closed in a loop, by overlapping the ends and zigzagging to secure together.  The elastic should also be the same width as the band.  Slide the elastic up over the band.

 You will then need to fold the bottom ¼” of your band up and press flat, and then fold up and over the elastic encasing the elastic. 

 Pin (and/or clip) the band all the way around the bra, making sure you have fully covered the seam allowance. 

Edge stitch all the way around, then put that comfy, cute bra on and ROCK IT! 

Happy Sewing!

Jody

Now that you have seen how easy it is to get 3 more options for the Classic Sports Bra, go sew yourself or your little one, one! 🙂 We would love to see your creations so share them in our P4P Facebook group too or hash tag #patternsforpirates on Instagram.

 

New Pattern Release :: Flutter Wrap!

I can hear spring time calling! The Flutter Wrap with it’s flutter sleeves and flounce options makes me so excited for spring time dresses… but we made sure to give it some warmer options to in case you’re not ready for warmer weather just yet 😉 No matter what weather you’re sewing for the Flutter Wrap will have you covered and feeling fabulous!

The Flutter Wrap can be an everyday top and dress or a show stopper formal depending on options you pick!  It can be tailored for any occasion!  The flounce and flutter sleeve options give it such a fun detail that add some glamour and fun.  It has a wide variety of fabrics you can use for the different options.  It is drafted for knit stretch fabrics with at least 30% horizontal stretch.  Flounce options work great with fabrics with a soft drape to create those beautiful cascading ruffle look with no gathering! Whoever you’re sewing the Flutter Wrap for they will surely feel gorgeous! The wrap style allows for easy fitting with tying it a bit tighter to looser and you can play with the neckline for more or less coverage on the bust!  Enjoy several videos in the tutorial including: fabric choices, adding/taking away length, grading/mashing between sizes-youth, easing in flounces, binding on neckline, flounce neckline, and even how to tie it up at the end!

You can pick from 3 different necklines: a plain neckline, a narrow flounce or a wider “sleeved” flounce- all are finished with a narrow binding to the inside of the garment.  A length for every occasion with a shirt length, knee length, knee length with flounce, maxi or maxi with flounce for the hemline.  Sleeves included are a tank, short flutter sleeve, traditional fitted short, 3/4 or long sleeve.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

HEM OPTIONS: SHIRT, KNEE LENGTH, MAXI LENGTH

MORE HEMLINE OPTIONS: KNEE WITH FLOUNCE, MAXI WITH FLOUNCE

 

TRADITIONAL FITTED SLEEVE OPTIONS: SHORT, 3/4, LONG

 

MORE SLEEVE OPTIONS: TANK, SHORT FLUTTER SLEEVE

NECKLINE OPTIONS: PLAIN, NARROW FLOUNCE, WIDER “SLEEVED” FLOUNCE

How about some fabric inspiration? Depending on  your options  you can choose from a very wide array of knits! Here are some of the favorite tester choices:

SWEATER KNITS:

DOUBLE BRUSHED POLY:

RAYON SPANDEX:

RIBBED KNIT:

VELVET:

OTHER SOFT DRAPE KNITS: POLY SPANDEX, SLUB KNIT, TRI-BLEND JERSERY, POLY FDY, ITY

In case you were looking for some more inspiration, you can find all of our tester images in our Facebook group!  Go check them out: Flutter Wrap Facebook Album | Flutter Wrap – Youth Facebook Album

Are you ready to sew your new favorite sweater?  Go grab the patterns now!

FLUTTER WRAP | FLUTTER WRAP – YOUTH | FLUTTER WRAP – ADULT/YOUTH BUNDLE

And if our pattern doesn’t hit just the right spot, we’ve also included a blog post that will help take your Flutter Wrap to the next level!  Go check out our Easy Hacks Post to see how to make some slight alterations to the original pattern, to customize it even further!

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Saturday March 14 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, Pirates!

Flutter Wrap – Easy Hacks

Bring on spring!! You have to admit that our latest release, the Flutter Wrap Dress is giving us all the spring and sunny vibes! I am so excited to share with you some easy hacks that the P4P blog team has prepared. Whether you like a thicker belt, neckbands or a split flutter sleeve, we have them all!

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Thicker belt/ties

Adding thicker ties to the wrap dress can be a cute variation to make them a feature of your sew.

Firstly, grab your pattern pieces for the waist ties. Measure the length of the short width and then double it. For example: if your ties measure 2 inches wide, then you need to cut them at 4 inches wide instead.

I like to remake my pattern pieces with the new measurements to make it quicker for cutting the ties out, but you could just as easily note the measurements and use a ruler and cutting tool to make your tie pieces too. Take your fabric and cut wider ties – one short and one long. Sew them as per instructions starting on page 17 in the pattern.

Next step is to sew a gathering stitch across the open end of the ties to reduce the width of the ties by half. Attach the ties as per the pattern instructions.

Happy sewing!

xx Katy

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Hemmed maxi flounce option

The wrap dress is gorgeous with the flounce option. However, I stumbled upon another beautiful way to finish the maxi length hem without the flounce or a straight hem line. All I did was cut my fabric using the flounce hem line then I sewed the hem with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

The curve can be a little tricky. I recommend that you use a metal curved hem ruler, press your hem, and then clip it. If you don’t have a metal curved ruler, I suggest wash away hem tape. Either will give you a beautiful finish.

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Split flutter sleeves

For this hack, we are going to split the flutter sleeves for a fun and cute way to add a little extra detail to your flutter sleeves!

First, you will cut straight down the middle of the flutter sleeve pattern piece, then cut out your sleeve pieces. You will have four sleeve pieces instead of two. Begin constructing the garment as instructed, including the seam that is sewn to join the edges of the sleeve piece together.  

Next, lay the bodice face up with right sides out, place the sleeve piece on top with right sides together and match the top of the sleeve seam with the top of the bodice side seam. Pin in place all along the armscye, and butt the ends together once you get to the top shoulder seam. You may want to baste here where the edges meet together to prevent them from shifting around while sewing. Then stitch.

Press the armscye seam towards the shoulder seam, and repeat with the other side. Then construct the rest of the garment as indicated in the pattern. 🙂

Neckband

 

We’re going to show you how easy it is to replace the french binding on the gorgeous new Flutter Wrap Dress with a neckband.  Sometimes you may want a little extra coverage if you are planning on wearing the dress to work or if you are just quite large-busted, like me. It’s really easy to do and I hope you’ll love the results.

First of all you need to construct your dress as usual but do not cut out the ‘neck binding’ piece as we won’t be using it, however do remember to leave yourself a suitable piece of fabric to cut the neckband from later!  Follow the tutorial and stop when you reach the ‘finishing the neckline’ section. If you plan to add the flounce to the neckline along with the neckband then go ahead and follow the steps in the tutorial that show how to construct the neckline flounce and baste it into place.  In the example below I am not using a neckline flounce, to make it a little clearer for you.

 

 

You will need to measure the length of your unfinished neckline by measuring up the front of one bodice piece, along the top of the neck and down the other bodice piece.   The easiest way to do this is to fold the dress in half, matching the centre back and the ends of the two bodice pieces. I like to pop a few sewing clips on to hold it in place.

 

 

 

 My measurement from centre back to the end of the bodice is 28 inches.  Then I simply double this to find the entire neckline measurement: 28 X 2 = 56 inches. Then I take my 56 and multiply it by 90% to reach 50.4 (which I will round up to 50.5 inches).  This is the measurement I will use for the length of my neckband. The width of your neckband will depend on personal choice but I will use 3 inches, as once the neckband is attached with a ½ inch seam allowance I’ll be left with a 1 inch band width.  So my measurement is 3 X 50.5 inches, with the stretch going along the length of the band. Here is my band after cutting.

 

 

Then I attached my neckband as normal. Fold the fabric wrong sides together along the length.  Then find the middle of the band and mark with a pin or clip.

 

 

 

Attach the middle of the band, right sides together and raw edges up with the centre of the back bodice piece (it’s already marked by the centre seam).  Then you will need to stretch the band to fit the neckline up to the shoulder seams about the amount you would normally stretch a neckband to fit. I have included some photos for reference.

     

 

 

Next you clip the end of the neckband to the end of the bodice on the left side, and ease the neckband to the bodice front along its length.  You will need to slightly stretch the neckband to fit along the bodice length.  

 

 

 

 

 

Repeat for the other side of the bodice. Sew the neckband in place using a ½ inch seam allowance.  Flip the neckband up, press the seam allowance down and topstitch if desired.

 

 

 

 

You’re all done!

 

 

 

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Snap to Keep Neckline in Place

Sometimes when you have babies being held and tugging at you a true wrap top/dress can be risky if they pull the wrong way! Adding a quick and easy sew on snap right at the cross over of your vneckline is a super simple solution.  First grab some sew on snaps from your local craft shop or favorite online crafty retailer:

 

Try on your Flutter Wrap and mark with your favorite marking tool where you want your snaps.  I like to mark both sides exactly where I want each snap to make sure they’re nice and even.

 

 

Hand sew each snap on- I’m not a big hand sewing fan, but these only take a minute!

 

Enjoy your wrap stress free from moving around and exposing more then you want!

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Snaps instead of ties

 

Last but not least I wanted to show you how to replace the ties for the witty bitty flutter wrap dresses and tops. Some may find it easier to snap the outfit instead of tying it. For my example I used the knee length flutter sleeve option but this hack can be done to any of the styles. Let’s get started!

Cut the fabric pieces but skip the two ties (the long and the shorter one)! Using an erasable pen or tailor tack, make a mark 3/4″ away from the raw edge, between the two notches. See image below.

Sew the shoulder seam and add binding. I will show you now how to create a faux wrap with only one set of snaps. If you prefer a real wrap with two sets of snaps, scroll to the end of the blog. Place the dress front and back right sides together as shown below. Sew all 3 layers together on one of the side seams but only two layers (the ones that match at the arm opening) on the other side.

Hem the side of the overlapping piece as in the original pattern. You will now add two 3/4″x3/4″ of stabilizer to where the snaps will be placed. Use the initial marking points as a guide for the snaps.

Add the male snap to the wrap and the female snap to the other side. All done! The wrap dress look without the “hassle” of the ties.

As promised above, here is how to keep the wrap but still add snaps. Place the front and back of the dress right sides together as shown above and sew together the two layers ONLY on both sides, matching the armpit and bottom. Add snaps on both sides using the markings you did. Super duper easy!

 

Will you be sewing the first Flutter Wrap for you or for your little one? Regardless of your pick, we hope you will show it off in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and hash tag it on Instagram so we can admire it too!

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 4

 

Good morning and welcome to day 4 of our sew along. Today we add the elbow patches and the sleeves. The patches are great for an accent color or print. You can pretty much use any fabric for them. I went with a custom cotton spandex in a maps print because…why not? I can totally see the patches made with some cute sparkle or sequence fabric.

If you are using a thinner material for the elbow patches, I highly encourage you to add a lightweight interfacing to the outer fabric. This will ensure that the patch won’t lose its shape when sewn. For fabrics like thicker cotton spandex, french terry and the likes, interfacing is not a must.

All that is left to do today is sew the sleeves to the main bodice, making sure to match the center sleeve to the shoulder seam. If you added the patches triple check that they are towards the back of the cardigan!!! If you opted for the short sleeve style, today is pretty much a free day as you will not have any sleeves to add.

You can see my progress in the video below. As always, once you complete today’s steps, post a picture of the cardigan in the comments of day 4 photo of the Butterfly/Cocoon SAL album.

 

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 1

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 2

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 3

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 4

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 5

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 6

P4P Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan SAL day 7

Plushie Pals :: Free Sewing Pattern + Tutorial!

It’s February, which means I’m already brainstorming cute gift ideas for Valentine’s Day for the kiddos in my life.  I love sending little packages of things to my niece and nephew up north, and including something handmade is always at the top of my list.  And that’s exactly why these Plushie Pals were born!

We are bringing our newest pattern to you today, keeping in mind that you’re probably short on time like the rest of us.  The Plushie Pals are super duper fast to sew, and end with the cutest results!  The fox, bunny and bear pattern pieces are all included, but the pattern itself would be incredibly easy to adjust into just about any animal or character that you could think of!  Let’s get to sewing, shall we?

 

Grab your “PLUSHIE PALS” pattern pieces here!

Oh! This time around, I loaded the pieces onto Cricut Design Space so you could cut them with your Maker.  Find them here: Plushie Pals for Cricut Maker

Fabric Requirements (based upon 44″ wide fabrics): 

– 1/3 yard main body fabric.  Directional prints will require more.  (I like to use flannel, but quilting cottons / kona cottons / felt will all work for this!)
– Felt for fox face and bear/fox bellies.  The edges are left raw on these pieces, so you’ll want to use something that won’t fray.
– Scrap sizes of fabrics for ear accent colors.
– Buttons, embroidery thread for facial features.
– Fiberfill.

1/4″ seam allowance used throughout pattern, unless otherwise indicated.

  • For Fox/Bear options: With both fabrics facing up, align the belly piece to one of the main body pieces and stitch along long, outer curve, at around 1/8″ inch.

  • For Fox option only: With both fabrics facing up, align the face piece to main body piece and stitch along top and bottom edges, at around 1/8″ inch.

  • For all options: This is the best time to add facial features to your Plushie Pal.  Using a fabric marker (I used a permanent one so it would show easier in photos), draw a triangular nose shape to help guide your stitches, if choosing to embroider the details.  Details could also be applied and look adorable in fabric paints or using HTV.  We didn’t include any specific facial details in the pattern because there are so many different ways to make a face. 🙂

  • For Fox/Bear options: Place two ear pieces, right sides together.

  • Sew along outer edge(s).

  • Clip seam allowances and turn ears right sides out.  Press.  Topstitch if desired.  *repeat with second ear.

  • For Bunny option: Place two ear pieces, right sides together.

  • Sew along outer curved edges.

  • Clip seam allowances and turn ears right sides out.  Press.  Topstitch if desired.

  • Fold along the top, raw edge, meeting the corners together.  Clip or baste top edge in place.  Repeat with other ear.

  • For all options: With right sides together, align ears using the markings on the pattern pieces.

**Note: The bear and fox ears will need to be eased in along the curved edges.  While the bunny ears will simply be centered against the marking on the body piece, be sure to tuck them out of the way while sewing so you don’t catch them in the next steps.

  • With the front body piece facing upwards, place the back body piece on top (right sides together).

  • Sew along entire outer edge, leaving only about a 3″ opening along one of the sides for turning.

  • Clip corners and seam allowances before turning.  It is recommended to use pinking shears around all of the curved edges for a cleaner look once turned and stuffed.  I circled the most important parts to make sure to clip, in order to avoid wrinkles or pulling at the “joints” of the arms and legs.

  • Turn your Plushie Pal right sides out, through the opening you left in the previous step.

  • Using fiberfil, stuff your Pal to your liking.  Be careful not to overstuff.  And using a tool like a chopstick / bodkin is incredibly helpful for filling the arms and legs and getting the stuffing into the corners easily.

  • Tuck your seam allowance back into the opening.  Pin or clip.  And using your favorite method, stitch it shut.

You’re all done!  Be careful — once you make one, you’re going to want to make ten more!  (Ask me how I know…..)  They’re just so darn cute!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Plushie Pals that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Valentine’s Day, friends!

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