Pattern Release Archives - Page 6 of 20

Be Bold Bodysuit – Easy Hacks

March 10, 2021

The much anticipated Be Bold Bodysuit has now released. I couldn’t be more thrilled to share with you some easy hacks that the P4P blog team has prepared for you. We will show you how to add a your favorite P4P skirt to the crop top and make it a custom dress. Rachel is adding a faux placket to her Be Bold Bodysuit and Shannon is making a very cropped 😉 crop option. Ohh and did I mention that you can turn the BBB into an undergarment compression bodysuit? Djem is showing you how below.

…..

Dress

Let’s start off this easy hacks series with my favorite of all – a dress!! Hello, beautiful! The Be Bold Bodysuit includes a crop top option which makes an excellent bodice for many of the P4P skirt patterns.

In the mini tutorial below, Judy shows you how to add the X Factor skirt to the Be Bold crop to to create a gorgeous, comfortable square neckline dress. Print the skirt portion of the X Factor pattern and cut the fabric. Sew the side seams right sides together.

Mark the center of the skirt front and back as well as the centers of the bodice front and back.

Matching the marked points, pin the skirt and bodice right sides together. Serge or sew with you favorite stretch and a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Hem the skirt and enjoy your new Be Bold dress!

I used the same method as above to make a Be Bold – Sweetheart mash. Instead of using the X Factor, I use the Sweetheart dress, Easy peasy! My next mash will be with the Boundless dress. If you chose to to the Be Bold crop with the Boundless gathered skirt, make sure that you use the cutting chart for the natural waist skirt, NOT the empire one.

My dress below is bamboo spandex and Judy’s baby girl’s dress above is cotton spandex.

Just look how stunning Sylvia looks in her Be Bold thin strap option mashed with the Sweetheart dress. Her polka dots fabric is double brushed poly. Just radiant!

…..

Faux Placket

Adding a faux placket is an easy way to gain extra mileage from your Be Bold pattern. And it couldn’t be easier!

You can add a faux placket to any of the Be Bold styles, but I chose to add mine to the tank bodysuit.

Did I say that it couldn’t be easier? Keep reading…

Cut the pattern pieces for your preferred Be Bold style.

Cut an additional rectangle, 6.5” x 1.75”.

Optional! Finish the edges on your serger, without cutting off any of the seam allowance. It adds a bit of stability to your placket.

Fold the bottom and side edges in ¼” towards the wrong side and press into place.

Pin your placket piece to the center line of your bodice, aligning raw edges at the top of the placket and neckline. At this point, I like to use hem tape to secure the placket into place.

Edgestitch into place. Fun tip! Use your blind hem foot to help keep your topstitching super-straight!

Assemble the rest of the garment per the pattern instructions.

Add your buttons once your garment is complete so they don’t get in the way of your construction.

I mentioned it was simple, right?? Enjoy the newest addition to your spring wardrobe!

…..

Compression undergarment

Love the Be Bold Bodysuit, but want a little tummy control? No problem. It’s all about fabric choice. You’ll want to use a heavy athletic knit with a high spandex content, like supplex or compression tricot. In my navy bodysuit below, I used supplex for the main fabric and lined the front and back bodysuit with power mesh. I treated the supplex and power mesh as one layer and followed the tutorial as written. However, if you are looking for something compressive, that can be worn as an undergarment, you’ll want something a little more like the black bodysuit on the right.

For the black bodysuit, I used tricot for the main fabric and power mesh for the lining. The only adjustments were made to the front bodice pattern piece.

Mark 1.5″ down from the armpit of the front pattern piece.
Using the bottom curve of the Front Shelf Bra as a guide, create a line.

3. Measure from your side seam to where you feel the start of your bra cup. Mine is about 3″, mark this measurement on your pattern.

4. From the top of the shoulder seam, mark 2.5″ down. Connect the lines as illustrated above.

5. Using a french curve ruler or whatever you have around (I used a drinking glass), create a curve connecting the shoulder seam line and the underbust line.

6. Cut out that section, and you now have your new front pattern piece! Using this piece, cut out your main fabric and lining on the fold.

7. Follow the construction of the tutorial as written, treating the deep plunge as a normal neckline. You will want to use a 1:1 ratio for the picot, while slightly stretching along the curve.

…..

Very crop top

This very cropped cami and top are super comfortable and perfect to wear under low-cut tops and for loungewear. I will be living in these and the best part is they are so quick and easy to make. Here are the two tutorials for creating the crop. The first shows the tutorial using the thin strap option and the second is the tank option.

Very Crop Cami Using the Thin Strap Option:

Take your lining pieces for your pattern. Simply cut 2 fronts and 2 backs following the thin strap tank lines to create a cropped cami with lining.
Sew the top together using the thin strap tank directions from the tutorial.
Once you have sewn the side seams, baste the main and lining pieces together along the bottom edge. Treat these two as one while you attach the picot as directed in the pattern.

This cropped cami is great for pairing with low cut tops for some extra coverage. I made this option in white cotton jersey, lined with the same fabric and used bra strap elastic in place of fabric straps. (paired here with RTW Jeans and Top).

Very Cropped Top Using the Tank Option

Take both your front and back bodice pieces and lay the front and back shelf bra liner pieces on top, lining up the shoulders.
Draw a line on your front and back main bodice pieces along the bottom of the shelf bra piece.
Cut your main bodice pattern pieces on this line and use this for your new pattern.
Cut your main fabric for the very crop tank top using your new pieces and cut your lining from the shelf bra lining pieces. Follow the tutorial for sewing the tank top. Once you have the neckline, arms, and side seams sewn, baste the lining and main fabric together along the bottom edge. You will now treat the two fabrics as one piece. Last, apply picot elastic according to the tutorial for the shelf bra. That’s it.

This very cropped top is great to wear in place of a bra or sewn up in athletic fabric to match with your favorite workout wear. This is not supportive enough to be a sports bra, but very comfortable for lounging, a sleep bra, or paired with your own bra as a very cropped top.

I hope you will get to give these easy hacks a try. Which one will you do first? Don’t forget to share them in the P4P Facebook group and on Instagram so we can admire your work too!

New Pattern Releases :: Sweater Weather

January 23, 2021

Coming off of the year that we all had last year, we wanted to start you off right in 2021 with something comfy, cozy and perfect for the winter season. And so, our newest patterns were born. Allow me to introduce you to: Sweater Weather.

Sweater Weather is the perfect pattern to grab when it’s chilly. You can create a classic sweater that will stay in your wardrobe for years to come or a super trendy look that hits the sweet spot this season perfectly. You can go from off the shoulder when it’s just a bit cool, to crew, to turtleneck when you really need something warm. The off the shoulder neckline is meant to be super wide so you can pull it off one side or wear it to the edge of your shoulders- not so wide you need to mess with it all day with wear. The crew neckline isn’t too tight that the crew or turtleneck feel restrictive even in thicker fabrics. All sleeves options are long for those cooler months. The belled sleeves are a super fun and trendy option that are so fun to wear. The traditional sleeves will always be in style paired with any neckline. And the gathered sleeves are such a fun a different detail to give yourself something fun to wear. All options have a great split side seam with a longer back bodice.

Drafted for knits like sweater knits, double brushed poly, spandex french terry blends. waffle knits, ribbed knits, brushed waffle knits, brushed ribbed knits, and more.

The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X! If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

The options include: 3 hem lengths (crop / shirt / tunic), 3 sleeve options (traditional / gathered / belled) and 3 necklines (crew / turtleneck / off-the-shoulder).

We’ve also included several videos throughout the tutorial…including fabric suggestions, sewing up the side split hem, sewing the gathered sleeves and a complete sew up.

Let’s take a look at the different options, shall we?

HEM LENGTHS

SLEEVE OPTIONS

NECKLINES

What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the perfect Sweater Weather patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, January 30, 2021.

SWEATER WEATHER | SWEATER WEATHER – YOUTH | SWEATER WEATHER – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sweater Weather | Sweater Weather – Youth

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Sweater Weather Easy Hacks post.

Sweater Weather – easy hacks

January 23, 2021

From brrrrrr to ummmm! This cold days, stay nice and warm with the newest P4P pattern, the Sweater Weather! Our blog contributors team has put together some quick and easy hacks to give you even more options to the pattern. Dana is showing you how to make a wonderful Sweater Weather dress, Jody ditches the side seams for a classic banded look and I took the sweater from winter to summer. Let’s get started!

…..

Dress

I live in sweater dresses in the winter months because it gets cold in the UK. I couldn’t resist doing a little hack to the new Sweater Weather length to recreate a Pinspiration I’ve had on my to-do list for a while.

I measured the front pattern piece and then held the tape measure up to myself to decide how much length I wanted to add. I decided to go with 6 inches extra added to the tunic length, which is a little more that I would normally add but there is a hi-low cutline, and so I wanted to make sure the front would be long enough for decency.

I use a projector these days and it was as simple as adding 6 inches extra length to the bottom of the front and back bodice pattern pieces, which I did on the fly with my perspex quilting ruler and rotary cutter.

However I also printed out the pattern piece so you could see how it would work on paper too. The pink paper is the added section. I then decided to mark the notch for my side slit 2 inches up from the bottom edge of the pattern, but this would be up to you. I chase a 7 year old and a puppy around all day so I didn’t want that side split going too high, but you could go with whichever height you choose. Then repeat for your back piece.

The only other change I made was to copy the bishop sleeve look from my inspiration pic, and I did that by just cutting the bell sleeve width to the slim cuffed sleeve length. Projector and paper pattern piece pictures below:

Then I cheekily used my overlocker/serger to gather the bottom of the sleeve by increasing my stitch length and differential feed to their highest setting and whipping round the bottom of the sleeve piece, which gathered it in just enough to fit the cuff. Perfect!

Finally just construct the rest of the garment as per the instructions in the tutorial, and you’re done!

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

…..

No side split

Hey everyone! I have another super quick hack for you. As fun as that side split is that comes in the pattern, I was wanting a most basic top, so I decided to do without the side split for this! It’s as simple as adding a bit of length to the front bodice piece, and sewing the two waistband pieces together in a circle! I’ll break it down for you below.

First, you’ll need to make your front and back bodice pieces the same length. I chose to do Top length for this one, and the front bodice piece was about a little over an inch shorter than the back. Since I also use my projector and don’t print out the pattern pieces, I marked the new Top cut line digitally on my PDF file on my computer. In order to figure out how much length to add, I measured from the Split Marking on the side seam down to the Top cut line on the BACK bodice piece. For my size, that distance measured 2.65 inches.

I then measured down from the Split Marking on the side seam of the FRONT bodice piece and marked where the new Top cut line should be. (Doing this with Paper pattern pieces, you would simply lay the back bodice piece over the front piece and see how much extra to add to the bottom of the front!)

This is what the new digitally measured cut line looks like when projected.

Once I cut my bodice pieces (following the newly marked cut line for the front bodice!) You can see that my front and back bodices are the same length now!

Next, you can sew up your shoulder seams, add the sleeves, and then sew your side seams. When sewing the side seams, instead of stopping your stitches at the split marking like you would have to do if you were making the side split, you can just keep on keeping on and sew right on down to the bottom! Like so:

Lastly, you’ll need to create and attach your waistband. Take your two waistband pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch them together along the short ends.

Now fold the waistband circle wrong sides together aligning the raw edges. You can now slip the waistband on the bottom of the sweater, aligning raw edges, and sew in place.

Now you have a comfy sweater without the extra side split!

Happy Sewing!

-Jody

….

Short sleeves

Last but certainly not least I wanted to show you how easy it is to take the Sweater Weather from chilly months to hot summer days. It’s as simple as using lighter fabric and making it short sleeves. For my example, I used custom bamboo spandex (my favorite fabric base!). There are not many modifications you need to do to get the look. Simply skip cutting the sleeves and sleeve cuffs when you gather your pieces.

Sew the shoulder seems and instructed. Press the sleeve opening 1/2″, wrong sides together as shown below. This will create a memory hem.

Sew the shirt side seams. Using your favorite stretch stitch (I used my coverstitch) hem the sleeves 1/2″. Press again for a crisp look.

Tadah! Easiest hack ever! Continue sewing your Sweater Weather top as per the tutorial.

ALTERNATIVE HACK: If you prefer a longer short sleeve, you can band it instead of hemming it. Before sewing the side seams, measure the opening. Cut two bands 4″ tall by the measurement you just did. Sew each band in a loop (at the short ends) using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press length wise, wrong sides together. Sew the shirt side seams. Attach the cuffs to the sleeve opening, matching the side seam. Press and optionally top stitch the seam allowance towards the sleeve. There you have it! A cuffed short sleeve.

How adorable is Teri? She tested the Sweater Weather top and made herself a tie die short sleeve one too.

How fun and easy were these? We can’t wait to see your take on these hacks. Share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates FB group or on any social media platforms you use!

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Bear Hug Rug Tutorial

December 6, 2020

Happy Holidays, Pirate Friends! We are excitedly back for another year and another round of holiday freebies to share with you! Over the years, we’ve compiled different tutorials and patterns that we think would make *perfect* gifts for your friends and family. Curious about what we’ve already released in the way of holiday freebies? Head right here to see all of them: Holiday Freebies Roundup.

Today, we are bringing you the: Bear Hug Rug!

The Bear Hug Rug is pretty much a giant stuffed animal, with function. It can be used as a rug on the floor, while relaxing or reading a book. It can be used as a blanket with a big ole’ head for cuddling up with. Or it can be used as a giant stuffed animal, ready to be loved.

The pattern construction is super simple and the results are so fun. We hope you love it!

Supplies Needed:

Bear Hug Rug pattern pieces
Fabric Requirements: Fleece / Minky / Faux Fur, etc, 54″ wide
- 2 Yards Main
- 2 Yards Lining
Fiberfill (for head)
Scraps of fabric for facial features
Buttons / Embroidery Thread for Eyes

TUTORIAL

Place 2 ear pieces, right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around entire round edge.

Turn right side out and place pin/clip at the middle, bottom edge. Repeat for second ear.

**Tip from our testers: if your ears are on the floppy side, you might want to add a little polyfil to them to help them stand up.

On head piece, use the pattern piece to place pin/clip for ear markings.

With right sides together, match ear pieces to markings on the main head piece. Baste ears in place.

On main snout piece, center the nose piece and attach using your favorite applique stitch.

Note: If nose fabric is woven / can fray, be sure to use an interfacing before fixing it to the snout to avoid future issues with fraying.

With main snout facing up, place lining fabric on top, right sides together.

Sew around entire outer edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Clip curved edges, using pinking shears / “v” pattern to help with a smoother turned edge.

Careful not to cut through the main fabric, clip a hole through the middle of your lining fabric piece.

Turn the snout right sides out, through the hole you just cut.

Press out all of your seams.

Place the snout piece, centered on the main head piece. Edge or applique stitch snout to attach it.

Add your eyes.

**I used these large buttons and hand stitched them on. You can also choose to embroider this detail, or add fleece circles. Whatever your preference is!

Your bear’s face should be nearly complete!

With the head right side up, place the lining fabric on top, right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around the outer curved edge, leaving about 5″ open at the bottom for turning.

Turn the head right sides out, through the opening.

Being sure not to overstuff the head, fill it with fiberfill.

Using a blind stitch, close the opening on the head piece.

With the body pieces right sides together, sew around entire outer edge, leaving a 5″ opening for turning.

Clip all of your extra seam allowance for easier turning.

Turn through the opening.

Tuck your seam allowances into the opening and blind stitch closed.

Align the head between the front legs.

Hold head in place and flip both the body and head over. By hand, use a whip stitch to secure the head to the body piece.

I like to use a wider-eyed needle, with embroidery floss, for some extra hold.

You’re finished!

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me! Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Braided Infinity Scarf Tutorial

December 5, 2020

Today, we are bringing you the: Braided Infinity Scarf!!

If you were looking for a quick gift to give someone, look no further. Because this “braided” infinity scarf just might do the trick! I don’t want to toot my own horn just yet, but I think you might love this even more than the Hidden Pocket Infinity Scarf from a couple of years ago. We will see, won’t we? 😉

Supplies Needed:

Two (2) 18″ L x 54″ or (width of fabric) W pieces of knit fabric

Lay one piece with right side facing upward, and fold in half meeting the long edges together, right sides together.

Sew along long, raw edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn piece right side out.

Repeat with second fabric piece.

Lay one tube of fabric in half, in a “u”-shape

Lay second tube of fabric on top, in a similar “u”-shape.

Reach your hand over the top fabric loop, and through the bottom fabric loop.

Gather both ends of the top fabric with your hand.

Pull the ends through the bottom loop.

Separate the top fabric ends.

Put your hand through the bottom loop and grab the end furthest from you.

Pull end through the loop.

Put your hand through the bottom loop and now grab the end closest to you.

Pull end through the loop.

Adjust the “braids” to your liking.

Open up the ends and match the opposite sides to one another.

With right sides together, match up the two seams along the raw edges.

Pin / clip around the opening, matching right sides together.

**This step is a little tricky. You won’t be able to align the two pieces all the way around. Go as far as you can without stretching out your fabrics.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around entire raw edge. Leaving an opening for pulling/turning the fabric.

Pull the fabric through, to turn everything right sides out.

Tuck the seam allowances into the opening.

Pin and, using your favorite stitch, close the opening.

You’re finished!

In case you consider yourself a more “visual learner” here’s a video tutorial that walks you through the entire tutorial, start-to-finish.

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me! Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Paw-Fect Stocking Tutorial

December 4, 2020

Today, we are bringing you the: Paw-fect Stocking!!

If you’re anything like me, your fur family members also get visits from Santa Claus — or maybe Santa Paws? (ba-dum-ching!) We’ve always hung stocking for our pups and filled them with toys and treats. And since we added another furry family member this year to my own household, I felt like maybe it was time to make new stockings for all three of our babies!

And I’m thinking maybe you might like this for your canine and feline family members as well!

Supplies Needed:

Paw-fect Stocking pattern pieces
1/2 Yard each: Outer + Lining Fabrics and Fusible Fleece Interfacing
1/4 Yard Accent Fabric (for cuff and paw details)

Prepare all of your pieces.

Cut:
— 2 each: Main, Lining + Interfacing Stocking Pieces
— 2 Large “Toes” in Accent Fabric + Interfacing
— 2 Small “Toes” in Accent Fabric + Interfacing
— 1 “Pad” in Accent Fabric + Interfacing
— 1 Cuff in Accent Fabric
— 1 Hanging Tab in Accent Fabric

Apply interfacing to the main outer stocking pieces and the paw print applique pieces.

Using the stocking piece as a guide for placement, lay out the applique pieces.

Using your favorite stitch, applique the pieces to the front stocking.

Place the back outer stocking piece on top of the front piece, right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew along all edges, leaving only the top, straight edge open.

Trim down your seam allowance, and clip into the corner points of the paws, being careful not to cut your stitches.

**Repeat last three steps with stocking lining pieces.

Leave your lining piece wrong sides out, and turn your main piece right sides out. Slip the lining into the main piece.

Fold hanging tab in half, wrong sides together. Iron.

Open up hanging tab piece and fold outer long edge toward crease. Iron.

Repeat with other outer edge.

Edge stitch along double folded edge.

Fold hanging tab in half.

Place hanging tab inside of stocking. Align it just behind the side seam, toward the back of the stocking. Clip or pin in place.

Fold cuff piece in half, along short edges. Right sides together.

Fold in half again, this time meeting the shorter raw edges together.

Sew along side edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Flip cuff right sides out. Using pins / clips, mark half points of cuff.

Slide cuff piece inside of the stocking, aligning the half points to the side seams.

Sew along entire raw top edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Pull cuff up and out of the stocking.

Flip cuff down toward body of stocking.

You’re finished! (Don’t forget to press your stocking before hanging it up!)

In case you consider yourself a more “visual learner” here’s a video tutorial that walks you through the entire tutorial, start-to-finish.

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me! Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Hickory Hat Tutorial

December 3, 2020

Today, we are bringing you the: Hickory Hat!

The Hickory Hat is a classic “aviator” or “lumberjack” style cap. It is available in four sizes, for head circumferences 18″ – 24″ and was drafted for non-stretch fabrics. Grab all of your favorite fun furs + fleeces, because this pattern is perfect for those!

**If using a super plush / thick fabric, you may want to size up — as those fabrics take up a bit more space and leave less room for your noggin.

Supplies Needed:

Hickory Hat pattern pieces
1/3 yard fabric each (outer and lining)
Optional Buttons

TUTORIAL

Cut all of your pieces. The assembly for the lining and outer cap will be the same for the first few steps.

With a pin or clip, mark the middle points of the curved side cap pieces, and both sides of the middle cap of your lining fabric.

With right sides together, place the side cap piece on top of the middle cap. Aligning them at the center points.

Ease the pieces together, and sew using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Using pinking shears, or cutting with a “v”, trim excess fabric along curved edge.

**Repeat with second side cap piece. And repeat all steps with outer fabric.

Place the ear flap pieces with right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew along entire side and bottom edges. Leave the top, straight edge open.

Trim all excess seam allowance, making sure to pay special attention to the corner points. Clip as close to your stitches as you can, without going through them.

Turn right sides out. With a pin or clip, mark the middle point of the top, raw edge.

Place the brim flap pieces with right sides together.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew along entire outer edge, leaving the top, straight edge open.

Clip excess seam allowance. Turn right sides out.

Locate the middle front and back of the cap lining piece and mark with clips / pins.

With lining fabrics right-sides-together, match the ear flap piece to the lining cap piece.

Baste in place.

Repeat with the front flap piece. With lining fabrics right sides together, match front flap piece to the lining cap piece at the middle front point.

Baste in place.

Locate the outer cap piece. Place it in front of you, wrong sides facing out.

Place the lining piece (with the ear flap and front flaps basted onto it) inside of the outer cap. Tuck the flap pieces inside and align the seams against each other.

Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew along entire circle, leaving 3″ opening for turning.

Turn right sides out. Tuck opening seam allowance in. Pin, and blind stitch the opening shut.

If desired, tack the front flap up — using buttons or a quick hand stitch.

You’re finished! Go wear your new Hickory Hat and then make 10 more. You know you want to!

——–

In case you consider yourself a more “visual learner” here’s a video tutorial that walks you through the entire tutorial, start-to-finish.

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me! Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

2020 Holiday Freebies :: Pirate Pillowcase Tutorial

December 2, 2020

Today, we are bringing you the: Pirate Pillowcase!!

Pillowcases are such a fun, quick sew. And they make perfect gifts because they’re easy to customize to anybody’s liking. My mom used to be in a “Pillowcase of the Month Club” when I was in college and she would send me a new pillowcase each month. It was so fun to have something from home, and a fun surprise to see what fabrics she selected for me each time.

Pillowcase Size	Cuff (L x W in inches)	Body (L x W in inches)
Standard	9″ x 41″	23″ x 41″
Queen	9″ x 41″	27″ x 41″
King	9″ x 41″	33″ x 41″

You will need: 1 Cuff Piece and 1 Main Body piece.

With right sides together, align the top long edge of the main body and bottom long edge of the cuff piece.

Sew along long, raw edge, using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Open up the sewn pieces. Using an iron, press the seam allowance up, away from the main body.

Using your iron, create a 1/2″ memory press the top raw edge of the cuff piece.

With wrong sides together, fold in half, matching the short ends together — creating your pillowcase shape.

Using 1/4″ seam allowance, sew along side and bottom seams.

Trim seam allowance down to 1/8″. Careful not to clip through your stitches.

Turn the pillowcase inside out.

Using 1/4″ seam allowance, sew along entire bottom and side seams, enclosing all raw edges.

Keeping the pillowcase inside out, fold the cuff piece down toward the body.

Use the 1/2″ memory press you created earlier to fold the top raw edge under.

Align the folded edge along the seamline.

Using a scant 1/8″ stitch, topstitch around the entire cuff.

Turn the pillowcase right sides out. Press. And stuff it with a pillow! You’re done!

In case you consider yourself a more “visual learner” here’s a video tutorial that walks you through the entire tutorial, start-to-finish.

Check out what our fabulous testers were able to create with this very same tutorial!

I la-la-love when you share your photos with me! Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group and show us what you’ve made!

Happy Holidays, Pirates!

Important Announcement :: Changes to Freebies!

December 1, 2020

Growing pains exist in so many ways, even in business. Some are easy to ignore — and some you can only ignore for so long. This is one of those “for only so long” moments. As we continue to grow, this little corner of the web continues to throw challenges our way.

Our main goal is to make every experience a great one when you visit us here. Every. Single. Visit.

After consulting with several website gurus, the best way to increase website capabilities is to adjust how our “Freebies” work. Starting January 1, 2021 (01-01-21), ALL free files will automatically expire after 30 day of purchase.

So now you’re thinking: How will this affect me?

Here are a few FAQs:

Q: Are these patterns not free any longer?
- A: As we like to say: Freebies will always be free. They just won’t stay in your account forever. You’ve got 30 days to download them, or else you need to “purchase” them again….still for free.
Q: What do I need to do differently?
- A: Not much. Just download your files and save them to your computer, external hard drive, tablet, cloud storage, etc. If you forget to save them somewhere, it’s not a problem. The patterns will remain in your account for 30 days before you need to “purchase” them again.
Q: What happened to the free pattern that I “bought”? I can’t find it in my account.
- A: It’s simple….it’s been over 30 days, which means your download expired. Add it to your cart, go through the checkout process, and download it again. Easy peasy!

If you have any questions, please feel free to email us for some extra assistance: help@patternsforpirates.com

Thank you so much for being part of our P4P family! And get ready for five full days of fun with our 2020 Holiday Freebies…starting tomorrow!

Cozy Pants and Wrap – Easy Hacks

November 23, 2020

Ready to wrap yourself in cozy goodness and cuddle up with those holiday movies and a hot cocoa? I know I am! The Cozy Wrap and Pants are just the perfect addition to your wardrobe. In this Easy Hacks post the P4P blog team is showing you how to achieve more looks using the newly released patterns. Michelle will walk you through adding a yoga waistband to the pants; Dana and Judy are taking the side split “up a notch”…or two. Rachel is bringing her Cozy Wrap up on the fancy chart by making it a dress and Alex is transforming the belt into two sewn-in ties. Let’s get started!

…..

High pants split

First up, a super easy hack that doesn’t even need any adjustments to the pattern pieces. Have you seen those cool high side split pants all over Pinterest? You can achieve the look with the Cozy Pants. The pattern includes two side notches, one for shorts and one for pants length. All you have to do is use the shorts side split marking for the pants option. Sew the pants just as in the tutorial.

These style looks beautiful in lighter weight fabric and tied at the ankles. See how easy it was? 😊

…..

Duster wrap with high split

I have had a duster cardigan with a high side split like this pinned on my Pinspiration board for a while, now. I knew I could make it happen with this really easy hack of the new Cozy Cardi and I love how it turned out!

I have a written blog post below, or if you prefer a video I did one of those, too. You can find it here:

Cut your pieces out and mark your notches. In this instance you can see the two pins at the top which mark the notches for the waist tie, and then the pin underneath them is the notch for the shirt length side slit, which we’ll be using here with the midi/duster length cardi to get the look we want.

Then assemble your pattern as per the tutorial. The only difference being the side seam will have a much longer hem up to the side split notch than the tutorial photos show.

Don’t forget to give those side seams a good press to open them up. It really helps you get a good finish and helps the hem lay nicely ready for sewing. You can see the opening for the waist tie here, just above the tip of my iron.

Sew up that side seam hem (don’t forget the waist tie opening) and the hack is done.

It really is that easy! Now it’s done I have to make a little pair of shorts to wear with it for the spring/summer. These winter months will fly by, right? Here’s hoping.

Happy sewing!

Dana x

….

Sewn in ties

Up next I wanted to show you how to make sure you don’t lose your Wrap belt 😉 I decided for my short sleeve option to actually sew the ties in the side seams instead of creating the belt. Start by cutting the 4 pieces for the belt. instead of making one long belt we will create two ties. Sew 2 of the 4 pieces right sides together along the long edges and one of the short ones. Turn the tie right side out through the raw edge. PRESS! Repeat the steps for the other tie.

Use the belt hole marking on the pattern to place the ties on each side of the back of the Wrap Top as shown below. Align the raw edges. Sandwich the ties in between the right sides of the back and front pieces. Sew in place with your favorite stretch stitch.

That’s it! Continue sewing the top as instructed in the pattern. Be cautious of the long ties when stitching, you want to make sure you don’t catch them when you sew the other steps.

Here you go! The look of the Cozy Wrap without the risk or misplacing the belt. You can tie these in the front or the back of your shirt.

….

Wrap Dress

With a few simple pattern modifications. you can use the Cozy Wrap Top to make an adorable dress!

You will be modifying a few pattern pieces that require custom sizing, so please read through the tutorial before cutting your fabric. The modifications will be dependent upon the size that you are making so I can’t provide exact dimensions for this tutorial.

For this dress, I used the knee length pattern pieces as my starting point.

Lengthen your Front pattern pieces to be the same length as the Back. I lined up the armscyes for the Front and Back pieces to determine how much longer I should extend the Front.

From this point, you will follow assembly instructions for the Cozy Top, including belt openings, but omitting the side split. You will sew the side seams together through the bottom hem.

Once you have the front and back of your dress assembled, you will measure the full length of your bottom hem to determine how wide your Bottom Hem Band should be. You will cut a band that is 8” tall by the length of your measurement.

For reference, mine was 53 ½” by 8” tall. You will fold the band in half, with wrong sides together, and sew to the bottom of your dress without stretching, matching raw edges.

Because you’re lengthening the front of your dress, your neckband will be lengthened by the same amount, adding an additional 1” to accommodate the ½” hem on each end.

Add closures of your choice, like snaps, to the neckband and dress front where you feel most comfortable. I wanted my dress to wrap tightly so I placed my closures near the side seams, on both sides. You’ll need to try on your dress to determine where you want your closures to be.

Now you’re ready to go, with no fear of your dress slipping open!

And the best part? You can still wear your dress as a cardigan. I’m crazy about versatile clothing!

Happy making!!

Rachel

….

Yoga Waistband

Anyone else can’t resist a good yoga waistband?? I’m not sure what it is about them but I just love them! The extra support when folded up or comfort and security when folded over. Either way, it’s a win in my book! It’s also a super easy hack to add to your cozy pants and I’m going to show you how. Essentially we are just doubling the height of your waistband. If you want to wear your band up and are making the high-rise option, I recommend doing a few inches less than half. If you plan to wear it folded down- doubling is perfect for either the high or low rise waist.