Straight Cut Skirt
I absolutely had to make this dress as soon as I saw Judy’s first sketches for the pattern. I love the cinched in waist and wrap over top and skirt, it’s just my kind of look. Sometimes it’s nice to have a little more coverage on a skirt, though, and I knew I wanted to try a really simple little hack to straighten the bottom edge of the underskirt piece, for a faux wrapover look.
The option is included for the full length skirt pieces, so it was the easiest hack to do and got me just the look I wanted for me.
The rest of the pattern is cut out as normal, the only piece we will be adjusting is the underskirt piece (the un-ruched skirt piece).
I was making the knee length, so I simply measured from the top of the skirt down to the knee length cut line on the right of the skirt pattern piece. Then I took that measurement (for me making the plus 2X size it was 25 3/4″), and used it to measure down the same length on the left side, using the full length skirt piece as a guide.
I am projecting onto tracing paper here to make it easier for you to see, as my fabric was a bit busy!
Then just draw a straight line across the bottom of the pattern piece to create your new straight hem skirt piece.
If you are using a projector, like me, you can also bring up the handy measurement grid included with the file for calibration, and use that as a guide for drawing a nice straight line across the pattern piece.
As I said, this is the only pattern piece that needs adjusting. Then just sew up your dress as per the tutorial for the pattern, until you get to the instructions for the skirt pieces.
Follow the instructions for the floor length skirt pieces and hem the bottom of the ruched skirt piece, then gather the side as per the tutorial. Next construct the back skirt and then hem both the back and un-ruched skirt pieces (the piece we adjusted) separately.
Finally, lay the un-ruched skirt piece facing up. Then lay the ruched skirt piece facing up on top of it. Baste them together along the top and sides, making sure the hems line up nicely with one another. Here is a picture of the ruched skirt piece laying on top of the un-ruched skirt piece prior to basting.
Lastly, you will want to lay your back skirt piece, right side facing down on top of the two front skirt pieces. Here pictured below with the bottom corner flipped up so you can more easily see the layers.
Sew the side seams, taking care to make sure the hems all line up together nicely. Basting the first inch of each side seam at the hemline can help with that.
Flip the skirt through right sides out, and finish the construction of the waist seam as the tutorial instructs and you’re done!
Nice and quick and easy. I hope you love your new straight hem skirt as much as I do mine (which is quite a lot!)
Side Seam Splits for Floor Length with No Slit
If you feel like you need a little more stride/walking room in the floor length with no split you can easily add a side split (or apply this same method to the back seam for a back slit).
Simply stop stitching the side seams of the skirt where you would like the slits to go to. Press remaining 1/2″ seam allowance not sewn to wrong side and hem.
It’s that’s simple! Now enjoy your extra walking room in your floor length dress!