Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

SOS Knit Pants -easy hacks

Not only did the SOS Knit Pants get a facelift but we also released the mini version and added a few easy hacks. Here are some of the P4P team’s favorite mods you can do to get even more looks.

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Moto Hack

 

The SOS Knit Pants have been around awhile and there seems to be a never-ending request for a Moto style option.  With the revamp of the original pattern, we thought, what better time to take the Moto for a spin.  Rather than trying to make you figure out the pieces on your own, we decided to provide a full step by step tutorial, including pattern pieces…for FREE!  You can “purchase” the Moto Hack HERE.   These are definitely not a “quick-sew”, so be prepared to spend some time stitching all those pin-tucks, but seriously… how amazing are the final results!  (This is for the women’s version only at this time but don’t worry…we plan on releasing the same hack for the girls’ soon!)

 

 

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Contour Waistband

Admit it, you’ve been thinking about using the Peg Legs contour waistband that’s included in the free Add-On with all our pants patterns, haven’t you? Well, I have, so I wanted to show you how easy it is to replace the SOS elastic waistband with the contour one.

Cut your SOS Knit Pants fabric pieces without the elastic and the knit waistband. Print and cut the contour waistband included in the Peg Legs Add-On. Sew the knit pants and the contour waistband as instructed in their respective tutorials.

Tip: If you would like the extra tummy control you can add a layer of power mesh in between the lining and the main fabric of the contour waistband.

For my contour waistband, I used custom brushed poly so it is pretty thick. The lining is the same fabric so I did not add any power mesh.

Attach the contour waistband to the SOS pants the same way you would attach it to the Peg Legs.

Tadah! All done. All you have left to do now is enjoy your new contour waistband SOS knit pants.

Note: please note that the rise on the contour waistband SOS will finish a little higher than the original pattern.

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Shorts

SOS Knit Shorts is one of the most popular requests and probably one of the easiest modifications.  Determine your desired inseam and preferred hem allowance.  I chose to keep the 1″ hem (1/2″ folded twice) as shown in the pattern and a  5″ inseam.

Measure the length of your inseam, starting 1/2″ from the pattern line (for seam allowance) to your desired length.  Draw a horizontal line across the leg for both front and back.  Now that you have adjusted your inseam length we will make our hem gauge for the hem. Cutting the outward notch will allow the hem to lay flat once folded.  The angle of the gauge should be a mirror image of the seam just above it so that when its turned under it will lay flush.  Again, my hem allowance is 1″, if you choose to do a narrower or wider hem, you will want to make your hem gauge to match the same length of your hem allowance. This is super easy and can be done both skinny and straight leg options.  Now, you can customize your pants to any shorts length!

 

 

 

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Button/Snap Waistband

 

 

Most of the time, everyone raves about a “jean” with an elastic waistband that was accomplished with the SOS… I mean, other than leggings or sweats, what could possibly be more comfortable and look like real pants?  With a few simple steps, we’re going to transform the SOS to mimic real pants with a semi-functional waistband to give you an even more RTW jean/pant look!

 

First, add 1″ to the waistband and elastic measurements.  You’ll need that little extra so that the waistband overlaps one another.  Construct you pants as instructed in the tutorial except as follows:

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Zipper Accents

The SOS just screamed for a zipper detail so I made myself a pair using some pretty decorative lace zippers. Here’s how to achieve this look.

Print and cut the SOS knit pants pattern pieces and grab two lace zippers. I used 9″ ones. I did cut a calf length instead of the pattern’s ankle length because I had a remanent of this grey athletic fabric that I really, really wanted to use. It’s very easy to make 3/4 length SOS pants…just cut both the front and the back leg at the calf marking instead.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk, mark the top of the zipper on both the front and back side seam.

We will now be changing the construction of the pants a little. Sew the pockets and crotch curves as instructed in the tutorial. Sew the inseam next. Hem your SOS pants using a coverstitch or twin needles.

Now that the inseam and hem are done, you will sew the side seams. Using your serger or a stretch stitch sew the side seam, front and back, right sides together and STOP AT THE MARKED POINT. Using a basting stitch, sew from the marked point to the hem.

Place your zipper on the right side of the pants and pin pit n place. It is important to have the zipper teeth on the side seam.

Remove the basting stitches to make it easier to sew the zipper in place.

Using a zipper foot and a straight stitch, sew the zipper on, making sure you fold the lace under the hem.

All done! Now go to Pinterest for some more zipper skinnies inspiration, order yourself some lace zippers and get creating!

 

How’s that for more options? We hope you love the hacks as much as we do.  Sew up a pair of SOS Knit Pants using one of our hacks?  Be sure to share in the Facebook Group or tag us on Instagram (@patternsforpirates).

 

Alex, Katy & Nicole

Tulip Tee Easy Hacks + 100k Sale-A-Bration Day 6!

The Tiny Tulip and the Tulip Tee are not only free but also packed with options. Well that didn’t stop the P4P blog contributors team to show you some easy hacks that will give you even more looks.

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Ruffle on girls tee

Adding a ruffle is so easy and gives such a cute look! The tulip is a long hemline to add one, so keep that in mind when picking how wide and gathered you’re making it.  I choose to make mine just one layer (not folded) with a raw edge so keep it from being heavier on her. I also wish I would’ve not gathered the under tulip section in hindsight! So, learn from me and do the top section that hides under not gathered 🙂 to keep it flatter underneath and lighter as well.

I quickly measured my hemline and doubled, plus a bit extra for wiggle room.  I cut a few strips to that length and the width I wanted. Another thing to think about is how wide the ruffle will be on the shoulder (you don’t want it wider than the shoulder piece once attached).  Mine is about 2″ finished.

Seam the strips together and gather using your favorite gathering method.  If you need more guidance in gathering here is our blog post with a few ways we like to gather: www.patternsforpirates.com/easy-gathering-methods .  I used my serger to gather this time.

With right sides together, pin the ruffle to the hemline of the shirt. This is where I would advice to pull the ruffle flat along the top edge of one tulip piece so that it is flat on the under layer instead of completely ruffled like mine.

Stitch on.  You can top-stitch if you prefer; I didn’t only to keep from adding anymore weight to the top since I was using a light weight rayon spandex.

Complete the shirt as the tutorial instructs.  Take some cute pictures!

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Banded tulip option

We know some of you are not be fans of hemming 😉 so I wanted to show you how easy it is to add a band to the Tulip Tee. Simply sew the side seams as instructed and then measure the bottom raw edge.

It is easier to fold the shirt along the back fold and measure as shown below then multiply by two.

You will cut the band 2″ by the length of the raw edge. For sizes 4T and smaller you may get away with only one band out of the width of fabric. For bigger sizes, including the women ones you will need to cut the 2-3 band pieces. You can either cut two pieces plus seam allowance and have a seam on the center back or you can cut 3 band pieces, 2″ by the length of the tulip raw edge and one 2″ the length of the back bottom raw edge.

Fold the band length wise, wrong sides together and press. Pin in place the band along the raw edge of the tulip and back bottom. Sew or serge in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Optionally top stitch. Press and steam iron and continue sewing as per the tutorial.

All done! Super easy, right? Please note that this method will yield a shirt that is 1/2″ longer than the original length.

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Bands on short sleeves

Hate hemming?  Then this hack is for you!  Adding bands instead of hemming is a great alternative way to finish raw edges.  If you’ve sewn other shirts you’ve likely done this technique before; it’s very easy to calculate on your own.

 

You’re done!  No hemming needed. 🙂

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Faux cami layer

Love the look of wearing a camisole under your tulip tee but don’t want to wear and another layer? Adding a faux cami to the tulip back option is an easy hack that offers a little more coverage and takes only a few quick minutes.


For this easy hack you will need to cut both the two tulip back pieces and a plain back piece. Begin by taking the plain back piece and pressing raw edge of bottom hem 1/2” up to wrong side. Hem.

With right sides together, place one tulip bodice on the plain bodice. Pin or clip in place. Repeat with opposite side tulip bodice. Place the plain back piece right side down on top of the front/tulip pieces, matching side seams.

Pin or clip in place. Stitch side seams and then continue on finishing your top as instructed in the pattern tutorial. That’s the whole hack, simple as that!

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Tank

 

 

With a couple of small modifications, you can turn the Tulip Tee in to a Tank.

 

Using the tulip crossover piece as a guide for the shoulder width, mark and draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dolman sleeve opening and then draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the dolman sleeve opening to your previously drawn line (shown in red).  Next, using a french curve, draw the armscye from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the dolman sleeve, but stopping at the side seam to remove the “wing” of the dolman. (shown in blue).   Sew up your top as per the tutorial.  To finish the armholes, I chose to hem 1/2″.  This will give you a more open and lower armhole.  If you prefer to band them, use the same method Elisabeth did above, when adding bands to the short sleeve. (Armband = 2″ by .085 of the opening +1″ seam allowance).

 

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Tulip Cowl 

We all love a cozy sweater and I couldn’t resist replicating this boutique style top that has been circulating the sewing groups lately. Our Tulip Tee and Tiny Tee were the perfect base. For the Cowl piece I used our Raglan Add-On Cowl and Jolly Roger Add-On Cowl pieces.  I did not make any changes here for the size Large or Size 4 youth, but just throwing caution in the wind, check your pieces so that the neckline of the Tulip body and the cowl equal one another before cutting in to your beloved sweater knits.  I did not check each size to confirm they all fit exactly.

Sew up both the tulip top and Cowl pieces as instructed in their respective tutorials.

Women’s Tab Piece: 11″ x 3″

Youth Tab Piece: 7″ x 3″ (Note: I made a size 4, so you may need to adjust the length of the tab. Subtract 1″ from the height of the cowl pattern piece to determine the length.  You can adjust it longer or shorter depending how tight you want the tab around the cowl)

Tadah!

 

If you love our Tulip Hacks as much as we do, be sure to hop on over to our Facebook Group and share with us!

 

 

P4P nursing hacks

Ahoy, pirates! Throughout the years the P4P team has showed you lots of ways to hack our patterns and make them nursing friendly.  So today I wanted to put them all together in a round up blog. this way you have easy access to them at all times.

 

RELAXED’S RAGLAN Nursing Hack

Nicole is showing us how to modify the Relaxed Raglan (or the Ragdoll, or the Slim Fit Raglan) to make it nursing friendly. You can find the blog here.

 

HENLEY nursing hack

Next up we have a Henley modification that can certainly be applied to the Brunch Blouse as well. The blog can be found here.

 

FST/LMU MASH nursing hack

A lot of us are big fans of the FST/LMU mash so we couldn’t skip this mash in our nursing line up hack. You can find the details here.

 

LAYER ME UP nursing hack

Our Layer Me Up Shirt has a nursing hack on the blog as well. Judy is showing us here how to modify the shirt to achieve a nurse friendly look.

 

BOUNDLESS nursing hack

The Boundless Knit Dress nursing modification can be found here. The same technique can be applied to other dresses like the Sunshine or the Sweetheart dress.

 

BOHO BABYDOLL nursing hack

Our Boho Babydoll hacks includes a split side seam modification is that is great for nursing as well. You can read Erinn’s blog here.

 

CAREFREE CARDIGAN nursing hacks

Our cardigans are already nursing friendly but Judy took it up a notch with the Carefree Cardigan Button Hack. The blog can be found here.

 

 

ESSENTIAL TANK nursing hacks

Last but not least we have an Essential Tank hack that is nursing friendly too. Judy shows us here how to achieve an open back look for the ET.

 

All you have to do now bookmark this blog post so you have easy access to all our nursing hack and get sewing. 🙂

 

 

Boundless – Easy Hacks

As you’ve seen, the Boundless dress got an update and we released the highly requested, youth version. We couldn’t let this double event go by without showing you some easy hacks.

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Neckband

 

If you like the unlined option but prefer to not hem the neckline you can easily add a neckband like we have in most of our patterns.

Simply sew the dress as instructed and then grab a measuring tape to establish the neck opening. The opening will vary depending on the size and options you made (low front/back, high front/back or low front/high back)

The neckband will be 85% of the neck opening plus seam allowance. For example, if the neck opening is 34″ then the neckband needs to be 34″x0.85 + 1″ which is 30″. You will cut one neckband 2″ by 30″.

NL X 0.85 +1 = NB

*NL – neckline opening

*NB – neckband length

 

Sew the neckband right sides together at the short ends to create a loop. Press the neckband in half lengthwise and mark its quarters. Mark the quarters of the neck opening. Matching the neckband and opening quarter marks, pin and sew the neckband in place with 1/2″ seam allowance.

Note: adding a neckband will yield a neckline 1/2″ higher than the intended pattern look.

Before you get started take a look over our Neckbands 101 blog which also includes helpful videos.

TIP: If you would like your Boundless dress to still be reversible (front and back) place the neckband seam on the side shoulder. 

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Boundless/Sweetheart mash

Looking for a quick and easy way to avoid the gathers on the Boundless? Or are you looking to create the perfect twirly dress? The Boundless mashes perfectly with skirt from the Sweetheart and can help to create either of this looks! If you have little ones, you can also use these same steps to pair the Boundless Youth with the Me Hearties.

Cutting Pieces:

You will need to cut out your Boundless bodice pieces as directed and based off of the options you choose. For mine, I used the lined version with the low neckline and 3/4 sleeves. For the skirt, you will need to have the skirt from the Sweetheart printed and then choose your length. I used the mini length.

Assembly:

Assemble your Boundless bodice as directed. You will then need to mark the quarter points on both the bodice and the skirt.

With RST, match the quarter points and attach your skirt with your serger or stretch stitch. (Note: You may wish to place elastic in the waist to help give your skirt additional support.)

Hem the skirt and sleeves and you’re all finished!

~Erinn,

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Back ties

 

The next hack we have for you is super easy back ties. I love this hack for the lined low back option but you can certainly apply it to the high neckline cut.

Print the pattern as instructed. Cut two trips of fabric, 3″ by 18″. You will be changing this measurements if you’re sewing a youth Boundless or if you prefer your ties narrower/wider or shorter/longer.

Fold the ties right sides together length wise and sew the edge with a 1/2 seam allowance leaving one of the ends open. Turn the ties inside out and press them. Optionally, you can top stitch.

Take the back piece of the bodice and pin the open edge of one strap 2″ down from the shoulder as shown below. Repeat with the other side. Sew them in place.

That’s it! All you have to do now is sew the bodice as per the tutorial making sure you do not catch the ties.

Get creative! Using the Cross My Heart Cami straps as inspiration you can add some really fun accents to the back or the front of the Boundless dress.

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Ruffles maxi

Add a little boho spirit to the maxi with this simple hack!

You will need a little extra yardage than the required maxi.  You will cut your skirt to the “below knee length” for youth (for adult I’d suggest either knee or tea depending on how deep you’d like your bottom ruffle).

To cut your ruffle you’ll take the “maxi length” and minus the “below knee length”- add 1/2″ for seam allowance- this is your length measurement.  Width will be double the width of the skirt measurement normally for that size.

Sew up your dress exactly per the tutorial until you get to the bottom hem.  Instead of hemming, we will add the ruffle.  Gather the top of the ruffle using your favorite gathering method.  I used a rayon spandex, which tends to stretch out vertically easily- so I used the double rows of basting method to avoid adding any extra weight to the skirt bottom.

Following the popular boho look- I just overlapped the top of my ruffle to the bottom skirt hem leaving the exposed raw edge. I stitched the ruffle on top the skirt between my two basted rows with a stretch stitch.  Removed the basted stitches and gave it a press. I didn’t hem bottom edge just to match the raw edge on the ruffle (but that is just personal preference). I also added some fun trim along the gathered stitch line for some extra pizzazz 😉

My daughter just LOVES this dress! I think it might top her favorite dress I’ve ever made her so far in fact! I guess she’s a little boho baby girl, she also wants to wear this hat for every photoshoot now 😉

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Crop Top

Crop tops seems to never really go out of style and we’ve seen some requests for it lately.  The Boundless bodice already has a natural waist cutline so is a great base to create a simple crop top.  Sew up the bodice as you would in the tutorial but instead of adding the skirt, just hem the bottom edge 1/2″.  If you chose to line the bodice, you can hem the main and lining towards one another, like the lined sleeve option in the tutorial.  I chose a scalloped edge lace as my outer layer, so only hemmed my lining.

For my skirt, I used the waistband measurements from our Sweetheart SAL HERE and used the natural waist skirt option of the Boundless.  I did have to shorten the skirt a couple of inches to account for the added waistband but gathered and constructed per the pattern.  Instead of attaching to the bodice, just attach the skirt to the waistband.  Super simple right?!

We hope you all enjoy the updated Boundless Knit Dress and newly released youth Boundless as much as we do.  Be sure to share your makes in the P4P Facebook Group!

Boho Babydoll – Easy Hacks

 

As with all other P4P releases we couldn’t let the Boho Babydoll party start without some easy hacks that you can do for both the women and the girls tops/dresses.

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Waist Ties

The Boho Babydoll Dress and Shirt is a relaxed it at the waist so I wanted to start these hacks by showing you how easy it is to add some fun waist ties top it. Print and cut your pattern and fabric as you normally would and cut two tie pieces 2″ by 28-34″ depending on how long you want the ties to be. For reference my ties are 34″ because I like to be able to tie them around my waist too.

Mark a point on both the front and back bodice pieces that is 3/4″ up from the waist edge.

Fold the ties wrong side together, lengthwise and sew them with a 1/2″ seam allowance. You will be sewing one of the short ends too.

Using your favorite turning tool, turn the ties inside out and give them a good press.

Pin the ties on the front bodice at the marking point you did earlier. The bottom of the tie length will be at the 3/4″ mark. Repeat on the other side of the front of the bodice.

Optionally, you can baste the ties to the bodice before you sew the side seam.

Sew the bodice as instructed. That was easy!

You can wear your ties tied in the front…

….or tied in the back…

…or if you made them long enough you can wrap them around your waist.

 

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Split Sides

 

During the summers, I like to attend a lot of concert festivals. One trend that I have noticed are tank tops with flowy layers- sometimes it’s the back, other times the front, but one of my favorites is on the sides. The Boho Babydoll makes the perfect starting point to create a comfortable tank with a cute little peek-a-boo side. I can’t wait to try this out as a swim cover as well with some fun lace or mesh. You can use these simple steps below to help recreate this look.

Step 1: Cutting Pieces

Cut out your pieces as instructed, with the exception of the skirt. (You can use any of the bodice options.) The only change that I made to the skirt was to add an additional 1″ to the fold of the FRONT piece. I did not make any adjustments to the back skirt. 

Step 2: Bodice/Hemming

You will want to assemble your bodice as per the pattern instructions, up to the skirt. Once your bodice is finished, you will want to hem your two skirt pieces. I did remove a small piece from the corner of my skirts to help create a smoother hem.

Step 3: Attaching Skirt

Once you’ve hemmed the skirts, you will want to create your gathering stitches. Taking your front piece, place right sides together with the front bodice and front skirt. Begin to pull your gathering stitches and even them out. Using your side seam as a guide, overlap the edge of the skirt piece 1″ past the seam and pin. Repeat the overlap on the opposite side seam.

Repeat the same process with the back skirt, however align the edge of the skirt with the side seam. 

Attach skirt using a stretch stitch or serger and you’re all finished!

This hack is quick to complete and gives a fun detail to your shirt! Not only can this look be fun for everyday, but it can also be used for a swim cover and even a nursing friendly shirt! Enjoy and make sure to share your creations in our Facebook Group!
~Erinn

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Trim Accents

 

A little detail can go a long way.  The baby doll is perfect for adding lace trim details as it is not fitted through the waist so using a crochet trim or non-stretch trim is an option.  You can also add trim around the neckline and armholes but would recommend using a stretch lace as you still need to be able to pull the top over your head.  For my option, I used a pretty narrow trim so constructed my dress as usual and then topstitched it along the seam allowance.  If using a wider trim, you can baste it to the bodice prior to attaching the skirt.

 

Here is another example on a youth version.  Judy used a crochet, non-stretch trim and top-stitched it on after construction to the bodice seam and the hem of the ruffle (both places that wont miss the stretch since they’re looser parts of the garment.

 

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Waist Seam Ruffle

Last but certainly not least we wanted to show you a different way to sew the skirt to the bodice. This method will give your waist a ruffled look without adding any ruffles or changing the pattern pieces.

For this easy hack you will not be modifying the pattern pieces or adding any additional ones. Print the pattern and cut the fabric for your size.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk mark the 1/2″ seam allowance on the bottom of the bodice.

Tip: for an extra pop of color finish the top of the skirt with a rolled hem.

Gather the skirt using two rows of basting stitches as in the pattern tutorial. You will now be pinning the skirt to the bodice. The wrong side of the skirt will be pinned to the right side of the bodice, making sure you match the side seams and the center point.

Sew the skirt to the bodice with a zig zag stitch, a triple stretch stitch or your coverstitch. Go really slow so you can ensure a constant 1/2″ seam allowance.

Pull the basting stitches out. One should be above your zig zag stitch, one should be below.

That was all. Your new Boho shirt or dress has an extra cute waist seam now 🙂

 

RagDoll easy hacks

 

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Cold Shoulder

 

 

 

With the off the shoulder look being all the rave right now, I just had to show you how easy it is to get the look with our newest Ragdoll pattern. I will show you two different looks, one more modest and one sexier if you will. The technique will be the same for both you will just make the sleeve cut out different sizes. Feel free to play with it to get your desired cold shoulder size.

Start by printing the pattern in your size. You will be cutting out a portion of the sleeves as in the graphic below.

Hem the cutout using a 1/2″ hem allowance. The easiest way to do that is to steam press and pin it in place with a lot of pins (or clips). Stitch with your coverstitch, a twin needle or a zig zag stitch. Don’t forget to give it a good press after you hem it.

Sew the shirt or dress as shown in the pattern tutorial. All we have left to do now is attach the neckband. Press 1/2″ memory hem as shown below.

Fold the neckband lengthwise and press it really well. Sew the short sides together to create a loop. Mark the center back (where the seam is) and the center front.

Match the center back of the neckband with the center back of the shirt. Slightly stretch the unfolded neckband and pin it to the back. Repeat for the front of the shirt. Using a stretch stitch, sew the neckband to the shirt right sides together.

Using the memory hem you created earlier enclose the front and back of the shirt and stitch the neckband with either your coverstitch machine, twin needles or a zig zag stitch.

All you have to do now is give the neckband a good steam press and show off your new cold shoulder shirt.

Play around with the cut-out size and get more looks!

. . . . .

Tie Back

 

 

During Raglan Week last year, we showed how to create a keyhole back for the Slim Fit Raglan (here), so I knew a tie back option for the RagDoll Raglan had to be done.  Instead of binding the neckline, I decided to do a spaghetti strap style tie.  You can really use anything for your ties; lace, ribbon, etc. but will show you how to make the spaghetti straps.

Cut your patterns pieces as usual:

  • front, back with low scoop option, 2 sleeves (mirror image).
  • For the ties, I did 1.5″ x 22″.  You can adjust to your preference but found this to be a good length for me.
  • Neckband: as per pattern but less 3″ from the width measurement on the cut chart.  Example: Size large is 2.75″ x 26.75″ so my adjusted neckband is 2.75′ x 23.75″.

Construct your pattern as provided in the tutorial but skip hemming the low back curve.  We will do that after the back has been attached to the sleeves.

Now to create the ties.

Now, we can finish the neckband.

The tie back gives a much more open back but is perfect to show off all those strappy bralettes :).

 

. . . . .

Twist Back

We couldn’t have ended this hack series without a twist back. For this option, you will need to print and cut the low back option. You will not be adding the neckband to this hack so the shirt neckline will be 1.5″ lower than the intended look of the pattern. You may need to wear a cami underneath (like the Cross My Heart Cami) or you can raise the neckline prior to cutting the fabric. Check out this “how to” blog!

Place the back top piece 1/2″ away from the fold line.

Using a 1/2″ hem allowance, hem the top and bottom. You can use a coverstitch, a zig zag stitch or twin needles.

Twist the top piece twice so the right side of both the left and right sides are up. Baste the top and bottom pieces together as in the tutorial.

Attach the sleeves matching the notches. There will be 1/2″ excess fabric at the top which will be hemmed next.

Hem the neckline with a 1/2″ hem allowance. All you have left to do is give the shirt a good press and show it off!

 

. . . . .

Off the Shoulder

Last but not least, we couldn’t leave you without a full off the shoulder option.  Using the same idea that we did for the Relaxed Raglan (here), we’re going to remove some height to all the pattern pieces (front, back, and sleeve).  Also, be sure to move your notches to help you keep the pieces in order and you know which side lines up with one another.

For the band, I used the same measurement as the waistband in the pattern.  In hindsight, I could have made it a smidge tighter around the shoulders but as is doesn’t move around too much. Now, I didn’t measure each size, but just to be safe…..measure your neckline once you’ve completed the main pieces.  Make your band between 80-85% (plus seam allowance) of the opening.  (Unsure how to measure the neckline? Check out this blog post for more details.) Mark in quarter and stitch just like you would a waistband. As with any neckband though, be sure your band has good recovery! This will help keep it up on your shoulders. 🙂

Make a RagDoll Raglan?  Be sure so share you makes in the Facebook Group or tag us on Instragram!

Wiggle Dress – easy hacks

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Separates

The full-length mermaid-esque dress is gorgeous, but maybe you want to pair it with a different top or choose different fabrics?  With this simple hack, you can create a gorgeous set and wear them as separates.  For the skirt, cut along the crop cutline.  Stitch the center back seam and each side seam.  Using the cropped band measurement and instructions, attach to the top edge of the skirt.  Easy peasy!

How cute is Katy in this Ariel inspired Haloween outfit!

And seriously, how amazing is this sequin skirt!!

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Color-Block Bodice

Keeping with the concept of separates, but perhaps you still wanted a dress. Doing a color-block bodice gives you a chance to mix up your fabrics. Since there is already a crop cutline on the pattern pieces that hits at the natural waist, we will be using that as a guideline. Re-trace the crop cutline 1/2″ above and below it to create your seam allowance on both the front and back pattern pieces.  Cut your new top bodice and bottom skirt from both front and back.  For the back, you will have 2 back top bodices (mirror image) and 2 back bottom skirt (mirror image) pieces.  For assembly, with right sides together, stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance the front bodice to the front skirt. Repeat for both back bodice and skirt pieces.  Continue construction as provided int he pattern. 🙂

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Decorative Button Back

Adding embellishments to your dress can give it some extra special details that will set it apart from the next.  Since the pattern is drafted for stable knits, you do not need a zipper or functional buttons to put it on, so these buttons are purely for decorative reasons.  I love the finishing touch it gives the back. Using the center back seam as a guideline, I hand stitched pearl buttons every 1/2″.  I used the zipper lengths as mentioned in the tutorial as a guide where to end my button placement.  For this version, I used a total of 13 buttons. ”

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Straps for off the shoulder

Love the off the shoulder but hate wearing strapless bras? No problem! Let’s add some cute straps to the Wiggle off the shoulder dress that will cover your bra straps. Print the off the shoulder option of the pattern and sew it up as per the pattern tutorial. Stop at the neckline finishing steps. Cut two pieces of fabric 4″x 9.5″. These will be your straps. The length of your straps may vary slightly based on the size you make.

Fold the straps lengthwise and sew them side with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn the straps inside out and press them with the seam in the center.

For perfect straps placement, try the dress on with your favorite bra. Mark with a pin or a clip where the bra straps will be.

Sew the straps to the dress with the right sides together. Finish the neckline as per the pattern tutorial.

That’s all! You now have yet a new style of the new Wiggle dress!

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Sleeveless

The Wiggle Dress is already packed with soo many options and great for every season but I don’t know about anyone else but summer here is HOT!! I can not handle any type of sleeves at all so a sleeveless version of the Wiggle dress would be what I would want for summer and lucky for me it is a really quick and easy hack.  Let’s get started.

First, you are going to cut all your pieces except for your sleeves.  You do not need to modify the armscye at all for this hack so just cut your front and back as usual.  Sew the shoulder seams and side seams as directed in the pattern, but skip the section for adding a sleeve.   Next, you will iron and pin your armscye to the wrong side 1/2″ inch as shown below. Topstitch using your favorite stretch stitch.

 

Now just finish up the dress or top as instructed in the pattern and you’re done. Quick, right!?

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Full Zipper Back

As soon as I saw the Wiggle dress I knew I had to make a full zipper back! So I took it up a notch and bought a dual zipper. This style zipper opens at the top and bottom. You can add this zipper to the high back, low back or even the off the shoulder option as well as the above, bellow or midi length. Just make sure the zipper you use is long enough! As a point of reference, I used a 48″ zipper for the high back, midi length style.

Start by marking the hem on the center back seam.

Add a strip of 1/4″ Wonder Tape to the center back seam, 1.4″ away from the edge. Start at the point you marked above and stop 1/2″ away from the top.

Repeat with the other back piece.

Remove the paper backing of the Wonder tape and adhere the zipper right sides together. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Zip up the zipper and place the other side of the back piece, right sides together, making sure that the bottom and top match.

Sew in place and top stitch.

Now that you have your back piece ready, sew the dress as per the tutorial. You will be enclosing the zipper in the bottom hem as shown below.

All done! Now all you have to decide is where the next date night will be! 🙂

 

I loved the idea of a full-length zipper like Alex showed us above, but when it came to finding one locally, I wasn’t able to get one the length I needed.  I did find a chunky zipper that would be perfect to use as an exposed zipper and just so happened to work out that it’s finished length was about knee length.  I opted to go with the midi length and do a split hem at the center back.  You will install your zipper the same as you would in the tutorial, except place it on the RIGHT side of the fabric with the wrong side of the zipper centered along the back seam.

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Lace Applique

I’ll be honest, Judy created this dress while we were pre-testing and I had to replicate it.  Adding a lace applique is super easy but adds a super sexy and classic flair.  For this particular version, the lace extends along the entire side seam, so I constructed my bodice first, added the lace to the top, then sewed my sleeves on so that the lace was enclosed in the armscye.  You can, of course, add lace wherever you’d prefer, such as the neckline or bottom hem but I love the silhouette the wide stripe gave from the front and back.   I used a fairly narrow zig-zag stitch down the center seam and along each edge of the stretch lace trim.  Be sure to keep your lace taut as you sew along the waist and hip curves.

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Front Leg Slit

What sexy dress doesn’t include a slit!  Show off those legs and add a front slit to your wiggle.

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Sweetheart/Wiggle Mash

We couldn’t end this epic hacks series without a Wiggle dress/Sweetheart mash up. I just had to make myself a black velvet and lace long dress. We all need one in our closets, right?

This mash is super easy. Simply take the front patterns of the wiggle dress and mark the sweetheart color-block lines using the Sweetheart dress top pattern piece. Don’t forget to add the seam allowance!

Sew the two front pieces (lace and velvet) as suggested in the Sweetheart pattern.

Once you do that simply follow the directions in the Wiggle Dress pattern to finish your dress. I used lace for my sleeves too. Since I didn’t have any black elastic and I certainly couldn’t use white elastic for the neckline, I used clear elastic instead. It worked like a charm!

Tadah! Just by adding a sexy sweetheart color block front, you took your Wiggle dress up a notch!

Holy Moly…. I think we covered just about every hack we could come up with to take The Wiggle Dress to the next level (if it wasn’t already on its own)!  Make a Wiggle? Hop on over to the Facebook Group, and share your makes, we’d love to see it!

P4P Raglan Week! It’s Coming!

Arrrrrrrre you ready for some raglan-sewing tips, tricks and add-ons?  We sure are!

In case you missed Nicole’s sneaky announcement yesterday, here’s another teaser to get you excited about the week ahead.  Patterns for Pirates is dedicating an ENTIRE week to all things Raglan!  And boy do we have the best week planned out for you!

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We are constantly being asked what the best patterns are for beginners.  Raglan-style shirts are excellent because of the sleeve type.  They’re super fast to sew, fun to mix/match fabrics and prints with, and leave an unlimited amount of style possibilities.  In fact, the Relaxed Raglan was the first ever P4P pattern that I (Katy) made for myself and I haven’t stopped making them since.  I do hope you join us for all of the fun we are about to have!

Just take a look at our schedule!

Monday, September 19: Jolly Roger Raglan Pattern Update + Jolly Roger Add-On Pack Pattern Release

Tuesday, September 20: JRR Woven Fabric Hack

Wednesday, September 21: JRR Animal Faces Add-On

Thursday, September 22: Contrast Band Hack for Kangaroo Pockets

Friday, September 23: Women’s Keyhole / Scoopback Raglan Hack

Saturday, September 24: Off-The-Shoulder Raglan Hack

Sunday, September 25: Adding Stripes to Your Raglan Sleeves

You can follow along on the blog here, or in our Facebook group.  Search #P4PRaglanWeek to be able to find our posts all over social media.  And please feel free to sew-along with us on one or all of the days.  The more the merrier!

But wait, there’s more!  We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Raglan Week!

Between tomorrow and Wednesday, September 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates raglan shirt shirt using one of our add-ons, hacks, or keep the pattern as-is.  Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag#P4PRaglanWeek We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog.  Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the raglan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some raglans, matey!

Sunshine Dress- Hacks

hacks

You know we love to show you how to take your P4P patterns that are filled with options and stretch them even further!

Here are a few easy hacks to the newest P4P pattern the Sunshine Dress!

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Hello there! For those who don’t know me, my name is Erinn and I have a confession to share with you… I love dresses! Ok, truth: I love them September through June when I have to wear “real clothes” for my job as a teacher and not live in my comfy summertime clothes! So when the Sunshine Dress came out, the first thing I thought of was, “How can I make this work for a teacher?”. I absolutely love the cross-over bodice, but knew I would need to wear a cami under it for work, which would just mean more laundry (another confession: I hate laundry!). So, I give to you my friends- the modesty panel! It provides you with the extra coverage of a cami, minus the bulk of layering (again, not to mention the extra laundry of one more shirt- isn’t that reason enough to make one?).

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What You’ll Need:

  • Partially finished cross-over bodice (Complete through attaching the neckband)
  • Pattern piece for Strapless liner (front only)
  • Coordinating fabric

Creating Modesty Panel

Modpattern2First up, you will need to create your modesty panel. To do this, you will need to make a few quick changes to the strapless liner piece. Cut along the armscye line that would have be used for the halter version. Next, remove 1” from the bottom of the pattern- there is already a lot of layers once the skirt is attached, so this will allow you to reduce some of “extra bulk”- nobody wants that!

Cut out your modesty panel using your new pattern piece as well as the binding for the top of panel. For the binding, you will want to cut a strip that is 2” wide and long enough to go across the top of panel.
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Fold binding in half and iron, then attach to the top of the panel- make sure to stretch slightly as you attach. Trim the excess binding to align with your armscye.  Press seam down.

Attaching Modesty Panelattaching2

You should have your cross-over bodice finished through attaching the neckband. Layer pieces in order according to pattern, then place the modesty panel as the top layer. Pin in place (no one will judge how many you use- that’s a lot of layers to keep in place!). Run a basting stitch down both sides- be careful on armscye, making sure to not baste all three layers together. Check the fit/placement of your panel and once everything looks good, sew your side seams together.

IMG_3584Voila! You have now created your modesty panel. All that’s left to do is attach the armbands and skirt, then enjoy your Sunshine dress… with a little added coverage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bodice with No Ruching:

 

no ruchingThis is a SUPER simple hack! All you need is your Sunshine pattern, no measurements, no guessing and just one quick change! For halter and strapless instead of cutting 1 main fabric bodice (front and back) simply cut out 2 lining pieces front and back.

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Assemble exactly the same skipping the ruching steps in the tutorial. Done! For cross over bodice just cut out 2 under/not gathered front pieces, making sure to make them mirror image. Skip ruching steps and assemble normally. 🙂 Was that the easiest hack or what?!?! Now you have 3 more bodice choices with this already option packed pattern!

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Making a separate skirt from the Sunshine pattern: 

Maxi skirts are all the rage right now and with this simple hack, you can use the Sunshine Dress Skirt portion to create your own.  (of course it works great for the other lengths too!)

 

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Cut 1 waistband and 2 skirt panels. Construct the skirt in the same manner as the tutorial.  Instead of attaching to a bodice, you will attach to the waistband.  To create your waistband, sew short ends together, creating a circle then fold in half with wrong sides together.  Find the 1/4 points of both the waistband and skirt and match skirt side seams to the waistband.   I like to gather my skirt while it is pinned to the waistband to help ensure even gathers along each of the 1/4 points.   Your skirt will be gathered to the same width as the waistband.  Stitch with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Pull basting threads.  All finished!

 

Sunshine Skirt waistband P$PP4P Sunshine Skirt Hack

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