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P4P University – Elastic

September 27, 2020

P4P University – Elastic 101


Hi,  I’m Dana one of the P4P team and I’m here today to talk all about elastic with you! We’ll be covering lots of different types of elastic that you may want to use in your sewing and showing your some examples of what they look like sewn up into finished garments, the times you may want to use them and the stitches I like to use to get the best finish.

To go alongside this blog post, I have filmed a video which you can find on the P4P You Tube channel here:

P4P University Elastics 101 Video

So, first things first, before you sew with any elastic there is one thing you will always want to do with it before you begin – exercise it!  Give it a good tug several times to make sure if it is going to stretch out it does it now and not after you have finished your garment.  There is nothing worse than something which fits great at first and then soon starts to get baggy.

 

Let’s introduce and cover off some types of elastic you are likely to encounter when home sewing:

Regular Knit Elastic

This comes in many different widths, depending on your need.  Pictured are 1″, 1.5″ and 2″ elastics.  Usually white or black in colour, I generally choose white because you can’t see it under lighter coloured fabrics.  This plain version is usually used for something like an enclosed elastic waistband, where the elastic is fed through a casing to form the waistband.  These SOS Pants have an enclosed elastic waistband.  It makes for a soft and comfortable to wear garment.

SOS Pants with enclosed elastic waistband

However, you can also find patterned elastics, like this:

Patterned Knit Elastic

and these can be used as a waistband in their own right, just by top stitching in place of a casing.  Super quick and easy way to finish a skirt or pair of shorts!  Just wrap around your waist and cut to size, then butt the short ends and zig zag stitch together to form a loop. Quarter the elastic, quarter the top of the garment and sew right on.

Buttonhole Elastic

This is great if you have small people that keep shooting up overnight, like me! You can use it in a waistband secured with a button, and then unbutton it as they grow.  Great for things with lots of ease drafted in, like the Walk The Planks.  Just remember to cut it a little longer than needed when you first sew it in so you have room to lengthen it.

Clear Elastic

Clear Elastic is one of the things I had never heard of before I started sewing and now it’s the thing I use the most.  I use it for gathering skirts to fit bodices, like the Sweetheart Dress; for stabilizing shoulder seams on lightweight stretchy fabrics like rayon spandex, that have a tendency to grow otherwise; for adding ruching; and for adding extra strength to the seams of stretch fabrics under pressure, like in a sports bra, where it just serge it right on when sewing the seam itself.  Again this comes in different widths, pictures is 3/8″ and 1/4″.

Swim Elastic

As it’s name suggests Swim Elastic is used in swimwear.  Regular elastic can perish under the combined attack of both strong sunlight and chlorine, so it is best to use this type of elastic in swimwear to ensure it stands up to the test of time.  I often use clear elastic in swimwear too, both work fine, you just don’t want to use a regular knit elastic because when your pull your swimsuit out after a winter in storage you will probably find that the elastic has perished and lost all it stretch. If you’re going to take all that time to make a custom swim suit, you may aswell try and make sure it lasts.

Sunflower Swim Top

I used several different widths of swim elastic in this Sunflower Swim Top to get the best fit for me, including 3/8″, 1/2″ and 1″.

Picot Elastic

Picot Elastic is often thought of as a lingerie elastic, and it’s great for that but I think it’s also really pretty when used to finish the neckline and sleeves of a dress, where you just see the little picots popping out from the inside.

Me Hearties Dress

I used picot to finish the neckline and sleeves of this Trixie Lulamoon dress I made for my daughter’s birthday using the Me Hearties Dress pattern.  I just serged it on right sides together, flipped it down to the inside and then top stitched it with a triple zig zag stitch.  This is my favourite stitch for top stitching elastic because it is a really great stretchy stitch but it is also quite a wide stitch and that helps stop the elastic from flipping up.

Fold Over Elastic

You will often see Fold Over Elastic being abbreviated to FOE in sewing groups, but as you would imagine from its name you fold it over the raw edge of the fabric and top stitch in place. You can either use your coverstitch if you have one, or just sew with a triple zig zag stitch.

Fierce Bra and SOS Pants

It is used in the Fierce Bra to finish the top raw edge of the bra and also form the straps.  It takes a bit of practise to get used to handling it at first but it a very useful tool to have in your arsenal!

Soft Waistband Elastic

Lastly we’re going to talk about Soft Waistband Elastic.  You will probably recognise this as the type of elastic used on men’s boxers.  It is thick, soft, super stretchy and has great recovery and we use it both as the underbust band on the Fierce Bra and the waistband on the Fierce Undies.

Fierce Bra and Undies

You can either serge or sew the band on like a regular knit band, flip up and top stitch the seam down or you can just sew the band into a loop by butting the short ends together and then topstitch it right onto the top raw edge of the fabric, like in the picture above.  It makes sure your undies don’t shift all day whilst still being super comfortable to wear.  It comes in lots of different colours and some fun printed designs too and is designed to stay visible and not be sewn inside a casing.

Hopefully that has helped give you an idea of the types of elastic you might encounter whilst sewing and what yu may need them for.  Don’t forget to watch the video that accompanies this post for more examples to guide you and…

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

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P4P University- Waistbands

September 21, 2020

Ahoy Pirates! Today, we’re talking waistbands. We’ll cover some of the different types of waistbands that you’ll generally see in P4P patterns, the best fabrics and materials for constructing them, and some helpful tricks and tips to getting the very best results.

Types of Waistbands

There are many different types of waistbands out there in the wide world, but today I’ll cover some of the most common ones you’ll see in apparel sewing and in many P4P patterns.

First off, let’s talk about knit waistbands. These waistbands can be normal or high-rise, and are stretched to fit a garment’s waist.  Knit waistbands will need to be made with knits with excellent stretch and good recovery. You’ll want to look for fabrics like brushed polyester, cotton lycra, or cotton ribbing to make these. This type of waistband is easy to sew, with no casings, elastic or fancy stitching required. Hurray!

Generally with this type of waistband, you’ll line up the short ends of the waistband piece, right sides together, and stitch. Next, flip the waistband so the right side is up, then fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. From there, you will quarter the band with pins and attach (more on quartering waistbands and other tips later)!

 

Here, I’ve used double brushed poly to sew a knit waistband onto a pair of Peg Legs. I’ve simply attached it by stretching it evenly, and sewing it to the garment with my serger, although a sewing machine will work just as well. Make sure to use a stretch stitch, like the lightening bolt, at the longest length setting!

 

Next up, we have  tall/yoga waistbands. Yoga waistbands are made and constructed similarly to regular knit waistbands, but are simply “taller” and meant to be folded over for a even more comfortable fit. I especially like using yoga waistbands on clothing for children, as they are super comfy to wear! Brushed polyester and cotton lycra are excellent choices for these. I’ve used a yoga waistband here on a pair of Baby Bear Joggers, using brushed polyester.

 

Next,  we have enclosed elastic waistbands. Generally, this type of waistband is used for knit garments that have a little less vertical stretch or recovery and need a little “help” holding the garment up around the wearer’s waist.

To construct, you will sew together the short ends of the waistband casing, right sides together. Next fold lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Set aside. Take your elastic piece, and sew short ends together, using instructions for the specific pattern being used. Generally, you will be instructed to either overlap the two short ends and sew, or “butt up” the ends- pushing them together and sewing with a wide zig-zag stitch, but not overlapping. Next you will slip the elastic loop into your knit waistband casing, and sew together as one piece onto your garment. You may topstitch this seam afterwards, if desired.

Here, I’ve made a pair of SOS Knit Pants with an enclosed elastic waistband. Although the fabric I used was a jegging material with little vertical stretch, the added elastic I used helps give the little bit of extra “oomph” needed to keep the pants up around my waist and snug-fitting.

 

Another style of waistband you’ll see often in apparel sewing is exposed elastic waistbands. These are waistbands that you’ll see in many applications, such as athletic shorts or undergarments. These will be generally created using plush back, underwear, or soft waistband elastics. It’s important to use these types of elastic, especially for undergarments, as they are much more comfortable and soft, and elastic will be up directly against the wearer’s skin.

On patterns such as the Fierce Undies pictured here, the elastic used will be “butted” together before being sewn, not overlapped. This is because overlapping will make the exposed elastic waistband too bulky.

 

Tips and Tricks

Just as there are many different types of waistbands out there in the sewing world, there are just as many tips to make sewing them easier! Here are just a few to help you along the way:

1. With knit, yoga, and enclosed elastic waistbands, serge or baste the raw edges together once you’ve folded lengthwise, wrong sides together, and before attaching to the garment. This will essentially take those two layers of fabric of the folded waistband and turn them into one, making it easier to attach them to the garment in a clean and professional-looking way. Remember, if you serge the raw edges of your waistband before attaching it to your garment, DO NOT CUT ANY OFF!

2. ALWAYS quarter your waistbands before attaching them to a garment! What is quartering? It’s equally dividing the waistband into fourths, so you can better ensure that the waistband will be evenly stretched across the garment’s waist.  It’s easy to do:

 First, sew the waistband or elastic together at the short ends, as directed by the pattern. Pin or mark the point of the seam.

Next,  fold in half to find the half point. Pin or mark the half point.

Now, take the two marked points (the seam and half point) and fold the waistband or elastic so that they meet in the center. Pin or mark the folded edges on either side to find the quarter points.

And there you have an evenly quartered waistband! This might sound like an extra step, but trust me, it’s one that will save you time by                          ensuring that you don’t have an unevenly stretched waistband (hello, seam ripper!) and will give you the most professional- looking finish.

 

 

3. SAVE your scraps! Especially with youth apparel, waistbands usually take very little fabric, and can be excellent scrap-busters. So next time you make something with a stretchy fabric with great recovery, make sure to stash those extras away for a rainy day!

 

That’s it for now! Just a few examples of some of the waistbands you’ll encounter while sewing some gorgeous, handmade apparel. No matter which waistband is required for your pattern, always make sure to quarter those bands, have fun, and share your beautiful makes with us over at Patterns for Pirates’ Facebook page!

Caitlin

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Classic Sports Bra – Easy Hacks

April 22, 2020

The newest P4P pattern is a must have for work out aficionados and not only! So many options are already included but you know us, we have to add just a few more to our easy hack blog. This time, the P4P blog team will show you how to make the Classic Sports Bra with a solid front, an exposed elastic and without a clasp but still having the cut out. Let’s get started!

…..

Solid Front

 

 


One of my favorite attributes of the Classic Sports Bra is the colorblocked front. But let’s say you have a favorite panel or fabric that you want to show off and you rather not have 3 front pieces…create your own “one piece solid front.

 

 

Overlap the three front pieces 3/8″ as show above. The overlap will be 3/4″ – the total of the two seam allowances. Scotch tape the 3 pieces together or trace them to create a new one. Now that you created a new pattern piece, simply cut it from your main fabric and proceed to cutting all the other pieces of the pattern (back, linings, band, elastic).

Sew the bra as instructed in the tutorial and enjoy your brand new creation. Easy peasy!


For my solid front Classic Sports Bra I used cotton lycra for both the main and the lining. It makes the most comfortable lounging bra ever!!!


…..

Exposed Elastic

Sometimes you find cute or extra special elastic and you want to show it off! It’s a super easy modification to stitch on the elastic without the knit band so it is exposed.  If you have the Fierce Bra you can follow those instructions.  Just make sure if you’re using a hook and eye bra closure option that your elastic width coordinates perfectly with your clasp size.

I had ordered this navy elastic with silicone stripes on the underside to help it stay in place and have been wanting to try it out on a sports bra…so here was a great opportunity!  You can also find elastic with prints or words on them as well.

Sew up your bra exactly as you would until the underbust band steps.

Mark your center front of your sports bra and your center of your elastic.

Pin your elastic onto the sports bra with the top edge of the elastic 3/8″ away from the sports bra’s bottom raw edge. (Tip- I like to baste my sports bra around the bottom edge 3/8″ away so I have a clear marking to follow).  You do not need to stretch either the elastic or the sports bra at all.

Stitch the elastic in place using your favorite high stretch stitch (mine is a triple step zigzag).

If you’re using the hook and eye bra closure option attach bra clasps just the same as the tutorial.

Now enjoy!


Judy

…..

No Clasp, Cut Out Back

 

To create a sports bra that has the keyhole back detail, but without the bra closure, you’ll need to make one small change when cutting your pieces, and a few minor adjustments when sewing on the band.  When cutting out your pieces, you can go ahead and cut out all the front and back pieces from the main and lining as you normally would, but then you’ll need to create a new bottom band piece for the elastic casing.  The new band piece you will be using for this hack needs to be the WIDTH of the full back option band, and the LENGTH of the bra closure option band.  You can either mash the two pattern pieces together, or simply use the measurements from the cut chart. I find using the cut chart quicker and easier than mashing the two pattern pieces.  Again, make sure you use the WIDTH of the Full back piece, and the LENGTH of the bra closure piece. For the elastic, make sure you cut the elastic itself the width of the full back option as well.

After cutting, you will assemble the sports bra according to the pattern up until the point of attaching the band.  For this hack, you will take your band piece, and fold it right sides together lining up the short ends, and sew together.  I prefer to use my sewing machine so I can press the seam open and reduce bulk here.


Your band should be the same width as the bottom of the sports bra.  Using the seam as the back center point, quarter the band and mark the front center and sides.  Match up these points on the bra and mark them as well.  I also like to mark the outsides of the cutout to make sure the band gets even attached.


Slide your band inside your bra, lining up the RIGHT SIDE of the band against the lining.


 

Sew or serge your band onto the bra, sewing all the way around even across the opening to give a nice edge for folding the binding there.  After it has been sewn on, pull the band down and press seam allowance down as well.


Go ahead and stitch your elastic closed in a loop, by overlapping the ends and zigzagging to secure together.  The elastic should also be the same width as the band.  Slide the elastic up over the band.


 You will then need to fold the bottom ¼” of your band up and press flat, and then fold up and over the elastic encasing the elastic. 


 Pin (and/or clip) the band all the way around the bra, making sure you have fully covered the seam allowance. 


Edge stitch all the way around, then put that comfy, cute bra on and ROCK IT! 

Happy Sewing!


Jody

Now that you have seen how easy it is to get 3 more options for the Classic Sports Bra, go sew yourself or your little one, one! 🙂 We would love to see your creations so share them in our P4P Facebook group too or hash tag #patternsforpirates on Instagram.

 

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Pattern Hacks, Pattern Release, Uncategorized 6 Comments

Fierce Bra SAL day 7

December 4, 2019


Thank you for joining us this past week! It is time to announce our Fierce Bra SAL winners so without further ado…

Congratulations Tiffany Nash! Tiffany won a $20 gift certificate to Patterns for Pirates and a $25 gift card to The Styled Magnolia Custom Fabrics.


 

Our second winner is Andrea Opalewski! Andrea will receive a $20 gift card from Made for Mermaids as well as a $25 card to The Styled Magnolia.


Huge THANK YOU to our Sew Along sponsor for not only providing the prizes but also the fabric I used for my own Fierce Bra and Peg Legs.



Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 6

November 30, 2019


You did it! Last sewing day of the Fierce Bra SAL is here! Today we are attaching the under bust elastic and of course showing off our custom made bras. Whether you went for more of a loungewear bra and used cotton spandex or preferred an actual, medium impact sports bra and used athletic knit, your waistband will be plush (or underwear) elastic.

You can “get away” with 3/4-1″ elastic if you are using cotton lycra. However, if you would like a sports bra that will be good for workouts, use 1.5-2″ plus elastic. If you have sewn the Youth Fierce Bra you can use 3/4 or 1″ plush elastic.


 

Here is the last sew along video. Take a look over it and post your completed Fierce Bra in the comments of the day 6 photo of the sew along album. Of course you are welcome to brag in the main P4P group too 🙂 Great job, everyone!

 

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 5

November 29, 2019

 


Good morning! Today we are adding the FOE shoulder straps. Start by marking your straps front and back notches. Do not skip this step! Sew one strap in a loop. Match the front notch to the front pick up and the back notch to the back pick up. Pin in place. You will stretch the FOE to match the armscye.

Day 5 video is posted below. Once you add both shoulder straps post a picture of the completed steps in the comments of “day 5” photo of the Fierce Bra sew along album.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 4

November 28, 2019


Good morning, pirates and mermaids! Today’s step is attaching the FOE to the front of the neckline and the overlapping back. It is highly important to triple check that the fold over elastic ends are not twisted when attach them to the back of the bra.

Make sure you mark your notches (center and pick ups) on the FOE as the center fold over elastic part is smaller than the front curve. You will be stretching the elastic to match the neckline.

Below is today’s video. Once you finish your steps post a picture in the comments of day 4 photo of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the Sew Along group.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 3

November 27, 2019


Let’s start sewing! On day 3 we sew the inner lining to the lining piece and sew the side seams on both the main and the lining. The youth Fierce Bra does not include a “cups” option however, Angela showed us in the release hacks blog how to add cups to the youth bra. You can check it out here. If you would like to sew one of the hacks during this sew along, your entry will still count for the prizes 🙂

If you opted out of the cups, you will only have lining and main and your steps today will be just sewing the side seams…super duper easy! 

Take a look over the day three video below and post  picture of your progress in the comments of day 3  picture of the Fierce Bra SAL album.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long Leave a Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 2

November 26, 2019


Welcome to day 2 of our Fierce Bra sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. To make the Fierce Bra you will need athletic knit or cotton spandex fabric, 1″ Fold Over Elastic (FOE), 3/4″ – 2″ plush waistband elastic and optionally power mesh or cups.

For my Fierce Bra I decided to go with a gorgeous athletic knit I got from The Styled Magnolia. I am using solid purple supplex, also from TSM, for lining and a nude swim for the inner lining. I am using 1″ FOE and 1.5″ plus elastic, both from Amazon.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long 1 Comment

Fierce Bra SAL day 1

November 25, 2019

 


Welcome to the Fierce Bra

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Fierce Bra here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth Fierce Bra can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group to be able to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group, in the comments of each daily picture.


This sew along is sponsored by The Styled Magnolia who specializes in non inspired custom fabric. They offer a variety of athletic knits that make the most perfect Fierce Bras. Our two lucky winners will each get a gift card to shop TSM fabric.



Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size(s). The Fierce Bra (adult) pattern includes pieces for Full Bust and Small but so if your full bust is 1 size bigger or smaller than the over bust and under bust measurement you can use the FBA or SBA pattern piece. You will still need to grade if your full bust varies by more than one size from the under/over bust size.

P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for bust/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the Fierce Bra SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

Fierce Bra SAL | Print and cut pattern [day 1]

Fierce Bra SAL | Choose and cut fabric [day 2]

Fierce Bra SAL | Prepare lining and sew side seams [day 3]

Fierce Bra SAL | Sew front neckline [day 4]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add shoulder FOE [day 5]

Fierce Bra SAL | Add under bust elastic [day 6]

Fierce Bra SAL | Winners announcement [day 7]

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long 5 Comments

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