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When It Goes Against the Grain

November 14, 2017

Woven Fabrics

We make woven fabrics on a loom. The weaver strings the lengthwise threads first, and we call them the “warp”. Then threads are woven through them creating the fabric. We call these horizontal threads  the “weft” or the “woof”. We’ve named the edges of the fabric the “selvages” or “selvedges”, and we weave them more tightly to prevent fraying.

The warp creates the “straight grain” of the fabric, and the weft creates the “cross grain”.

Pattern pieces have grainlines printed on them.  They are either arrows or fold lines.

Grainline

 

When we cut a pattern out, the best way is to fold the fabric carefully on the straight grain of the fabric, lining up the selvages .  If you need to straighten the ends of your fabric, take a snip through the selvage near one end. Then pull a horizontal thread. The missing thread will create a straight line for you to cut along.

Fold Placement

Then place the pattern pieces down carefully with the grain lines on the pattern piece lined up with the straight grain of the fabric.

Finding the Straight Grain

An easy way to check if your pattern piece is “on-grain” is to measure from the line on the pattern piece to the selvages in a couple of places. The distance should be the same.

It’s important for long pattern pieces, especially something like a pant leg, to be grain perfect. If it’s not, the garment will twist, and once you cut it, there’s nothing you can do to fix it. You’ll also never be able to match stripes or plaids if you cut off-grain.

Smaller pieces like pockets, collars, cuffs, and yokes can be cut on the straight grain, the cross grain, or the bias no matter what the lines on the pattern say. The “bias” is the direction that’s 45 degrees from the straight grain. It has more drape than either the straight grain or the cross, and edges cut on the bias don’t fray.

When you cut major pieces on the bias, it’s important to cut them in opposite directions or your whole garment will twist. But it’s not important for small pieces like pockets.

How to Position Bias Cut Pieces

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can mark the bias on your pattern piece with a protractor or a quilting ruler.

Marking the Grainlines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over time fabrics cut on the cross grain will droop more than then fabric cut on the straight. It’s not a problem for something like a skirt or pants made from a border print. The droop won’t be noticeable in the normal lifetime of the garment. You might see it in heavy curtains, though.

Knit Fabrics

Technically, knit fabrics don’t have a grain, but the direction you cut your pieces out matters just as much. Big machines make knit fabric, but they work the same way we knit with yarn and needles. Some machines knit back and forth and some  knit in the round. One results in a fabric with selvage-like edges and other in a tube of fabric.

Close up of a Knit Fabric

 

 

No matter what yarn is used to create the knit fabric, the single knit process will result in a horizontal stretch in the fabric we call the “mechanical stretch”.  Fabrics that only have horizontal stretch are usually called “two-way stretch”.  The addition of elastane (Spandex, Lycra, etc.) to the yarns can create a fabric with both horizontal and vertical stretch, and it is usually described as “four-way stretch”. Whether the fabric is two-way or four-way,  the horizontal stretch should be the circumference of your garment.

Horizontal Stretch Line

While the amount of elastane in the yarns might make the fabric stretchy enough for the garment to fit you cut with the vertical stretch used as the circumference, you shouldn’t cut it that way. If the mechanical stretch in the fabric hangs vertically, you’ll get elephant knees, saggy elbows, and baggy crotches. You can use the same method for making sure your pattern is lined up so the grainlines on your pattern are parallel to the edges of your fabric that we use for wovens. Knit patterns often have the horizontal stretch line marked, too.

There’s a saying in sewing- The fabric always wins. There is probably nowhere in sewing where fighting the fabric is more futile than not paying attention to the grain.

Roberta

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos 11 Comments

Sleeves and Their Wrinkles

March 28, 2017

I’ve scrolled past the question or remark about wrinkling around armpits a ton in sewing groups.  I’m here to talk about the #1 cause of armpit wrinkle on the sleeves.

It’s easier to understand why we have wrinkles around the armpit when we know how the sleeve was drafted.  Different sleeve types are drafted differently.

 

Dolman sleeves are also drafted so that there are no wrinkles when we have our arms lifted horiztonally.

Raglan sleeves are drafted so that there are little to no wrinkles when your arms are lifted.

Set in sleeves on knit tees are drafted so that there are no wrinkles when our arms are at a diagonal.

Okay, so what does that mean? When your arms are in other positions than the ones the sleeves are drafted for there will always be wrinkles/extra fabric/pulling.  Lets see a few real life picture examples!

Dolman: Shown here: The Sweet Tee Others we have in the shop are: The Pumpkin Spice Dolman and CoCoon Cardigan

Arms up (almost horizontal– I don’t stand with my arms straight out too much for pictures ;)): very little wrinkling or extra fabric and if my arm was up slightly more horizontal it would go away completely.

Arms Down: All the extra fabric is now “bunched”up under my arm when I put them down.

Arms Up:

Arms Down: in this more stable cotton spandex you can really see the difference!

 

 

Raglan: Shown here in the pink and grey: Slim Fit Raglan , Shown here in the black and leopard: Relaxed Raglan , and Shown here in youth: Jolly Roger Raglan

Arm Up: (almost horizontal).

Arms Down:

Arms Up: (again it was near impossible to find one all the way up/out but this is close!)

Arms Down:

Arms Raised: higher than horizontal. You can see the wrinkling move from under the arm to on top, it is being pulled since it is higher than the raglan sleeve is drafted at.

And another raglan set courtesy of my Little Guy 🙂

Arms Up: although it’s a close up, you can see his hands are on his hips-so not fully horizontal, but close!

Arms Down: (that look guys!  He’s a sassy one for sure…that doesn’t enjoy modeling for mama 😉 )

 

 

Set in Sleeves: Shown here: Sweetheart Dress , Shown here in youth: Henley , Shown here: fit picture from testing the upcoming youth tee 🙂 , and also in the shop we have Grandpa Cardigan , Wingman Shirt , Boundless Knit Dress , Buried Treasure Tunic , High Low Tide Top

Arms Diagonal:

One Arm Down and One Arm Extended Up: see the wrinkles are in different spots. My arm that is down creates wrinkle under the armpit area.  My arm that is extended all the way up creates them on top of the shoulder. (Also super crazy face I’m making because it was super windy 😉 ).

Arms Diagonal: the only wrinkling going on here is because I’m pulling my arm to the back (pointing my elbow backwards) unnaturally to try to show off the top.

Arms Down:

Here is a few youth examples of set in sleeves as well!

Arms Diagonal:

Arms Down:

Arms Diagonal:

Arms Down:

Arms Diagonal: (no wrinkling)

Arms Down: (wrinkling at under arm)

Arms Extended Up: (wrinkling above arm/shoulder)

If you’re realizing you have wrinkles at the bust, not sleeve we’ve also blogged about those here!

I hope this helps all you wonderful seamstresses out there creating knit garments and trying to make sure you’re getting the fit right 🙂

 

Filed Under: Fitting, General Sewing Leave a Comment

2016 Holiday Freebies :: Slouchy Hat Pattern (4 Sizes!)

December 13, 2016

Ready for our second holiday present to you this year?  This one is for the entire family!

p4p-slouchy-hatp4p-hat

 

This slouchy hat pattern comes in four sizes, which should cover the heads of the majority of your family!

XSmall (fits 17″ – 18″ head circumference) – Toddler
Small (fits 19″ – 20″ head circumference) – Child
Medium (fits 21″ – 22″ head circumference) – Teen/Adult
Large (fits 23″ – 24″ head circumference) – Adult

Grab your free pattern pieces here. If you need help putting the pattern together, pop over to the First Time Users Tips page or ask in our facebook group .

Recommended fabrics: Ponte, sweater knits, liverpool, brushed poly, rayon blends, tshirt knits, upcycled sweaters, etc.   Anything with a decent amount of drape to it works best, otherwise the “slouch” won’t happen as well.  I suggest washing your fabric before you begin to pre-shrink & help prevent color bleeding in the future.
Cuff piece: Any knits with at least a 20% stretch.


Supplies needed:

Main Fabric: 1/3 yard
Cuff: less than 1/4 yard required

Step 1: Assemble your pattern and cut your pieces out.  You will need two of the main hat, cut on the fold.  And one cuff piece, cut on the fold.

hat1

 

Step 2: Lay two mirror images, right sides together.  Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around the two outer edges.  Make sure to leave the bottom and the top “v” open.

hat2hat3

 

Step 3: Open up the hat and fold it (right sides still remaining together) so the “v” lays flat, and the two side seams are meeting in the middle.  Stitch the top opening shut.

hat4

The top of your hat should now look like this.  You’ll have an X of one long seam (going from bottom edge to bottom edge) and one short seam.

hat5

Step 4: Fold your cuff piece, right sides together, meeting the shorter ends together.

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Step 5: Stitch (using 1/2″ seam allowance) short ends together.

hat6

Step 6: With wrong sides together, fold the raw edges together to meet each other.

hat7

Step 7: On both your hat body and cuff pieces, mark raw edges into halves.  (The hat body will be the two seams.  The cuff will be one seam and the halfway point on the opposite side.)

hat8

Step 8: Slide the cuff over the hat body, aligning the raw edges and matching the half-marked points.  Note: The cuff is slightly smaller than the hat body.  Stretching the cuff only, stitch through all three layers of raw edges.

 

hat9

 

Step 13: Flip cuff down.  You’re finished!

hat10

 


Need some inspiration?  Take a look at the fabulous hats that our gorgeous testers made!




















As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous mittens you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!

Filed Under: Free Pattern 15 Comments

Spice Cake Dolman Pattern Release!

October 6, 2016

Are you ready for fall?  We most definitely are!!  One of the fall favorites for women is the Pumpkin Spice Dolman and with mommy and me fashion becoming ever so popular, it was only time we added the mini version to the girl’s pattern line up.  We’ve actually had this planned for awhile but what better time to release it than in the fall!  We’d like to thank So Sew English Fabrics for sponsoring this pattern and providing us with some gorgeous fabrics!

So Sew English Fabricsimg_7343b

 

So, with that, meet Spice Cake!

This is a loose fitting dolman sleeve, loose through the chest, waist and semi-fitted at booty and is perfect paired with some skinny jeans or leggings.  The extra wide “bat-wing” is on trend and fit in with modern boutique style tops.  Some favorite fabrics choices are rayon spandex, brushed poly, French Terry spandex, sweater knits and jersey.  I personally love the lighter-weight knits because the dolman sleeve drapes so nicely but you can get away using a very wide array of knits.  The elbow patches can be made from any fabric and is a great way to add some extra punch to your girls’ top!

Packed with the same options as the Pumpkin Spice Dolman, The Spice Cake includes:

  • 3 Sleeve Options: Banded Short Sleeve, hemmed 3/4 and long sleeves.
  • 4 Hem Options: Straight Hem, Short and Tall Banded and curved.
  • Elbow Patches

Short Sleeve: 

img_7314img_729314560217_10153973070396033_4749211745288867989_o14409496_10154564189939921_2415649098606186852_o

 

3/4 Sleeve:

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Long Sleeve: 

img_7361a14524587_10153883596525823_4382938640619283263_o14435352_10210705615341777_2147668606558213818_o14463027_10102020576949727_7503603949065884009_n

 

Straight Hem:

img_737914468170_10153818230235841_7685112070561584436_o

 

Short Banded:

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Tall Banded: 

img_7336img_7319

 

Curved Hem: 

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Elbow Patches:

14481897_10102929896984843_321395481145942277_o14424783_10205372391267868_3928711897655083788_oimg_7374 14468354_10154375031436539_8723833704278170583_o

 

T-shirt Neckband and Turned Facing Options:

img_729414379961_10209218120843273_5009430863828155531_o

There you have it! Now, go grab the Spice Cake  for your mini!!

 

 

 Don’t have the Pumpkin Spice Dolman yet?  Grab both for a special bundled price HERE.

listing-pictures-bundle

 

Be sure to head over to the P4P Facebook Group and check out the tester albums for more inspiration and share your beautiful creations!

 

Filed Under: Pattern Release Leave a Comment

FST/LMU Mash Nursing Hack

November 25, 2015

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I love the FST and LMU mash for after baby.  It makes me feel stylish, put together and comfortable! The loose aline look hides any left over baby belly and the tighter top doesn’t feel you leaving frumpy.

For this hack I essentially did a double layer body.  I can lift up the top layer and have the bottom layer covering my back/belly during nursing. And it looks like a perfectly “normal” everyday shirt! 🙂

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I made mine completely doubled because we are going into winter here and I didn’t mind the added warmth.  If I was making this for spring or summer months I would probably tinker with a faux double layer for the back piece.

I cut 2 front and back pieces.

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Then took 1 front piece to modify for the under layer.  I measured on myself from the neckline to under my bust (I did happen to have on the same shirt, so I didn’t even need to guess where the neckline hit ;)). Then I transferred that measurement to the front center and curved up to the armpit.

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Since the FST flares out under the bust it was a little loose there.  So I added a thin elastic to the raw edge.  I just held the elastic taute (not tight) on my body from seam to seam (again, I happen to be wearing this shirt, so there was no guessing!). This way the two layers would have the same finish length–without the elastic holding up the center it would droop lower then the top layer.  As well as not worry about holding it up while nursing–bonus :).

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I choose to put my elastic on the right side of my under layer, because I didn’t want to feel it against my skin.  But you can put it on the wrong side so that it is hidden when you nurse– whatever you prefer! You will need to stretch the elastic to fit the curve.  I serged mine on, but any stretch stitch will work! It will line up right at the armpit.

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I sewed the shoulder seams and sleeves on like normal.  Then when going down the side seams I kept the main body layers seperate (so you can lift the top layer freely).  It is a bit tricky right at the armpit, but just go slowly  and remember you wont be showing anyone the inside of your armpit seam! 😉

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Now for hemming, I choose to hem the top layer completely normal with a 1″ allowance.

For the under layer I choose to add a pretty lace trim to stick out longer then the top layer.  I wanted the seam hidden, so I trimmed off 1″ from the bottom.

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I serged my lace on right sides together trimming off about 1/2″ of both shirt and lace (the top of the lace that was blank).

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Then flipped up and top-stitched (I didn’t want that seam flipping and showing through the dainty lace trim!).  So, I trimmed 1″ and took off another 1/2″.  This means my seam on the under layer should be 1/2″ above the hemmed edge of my top layer and the lace will peek out below.

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I attached the neckband normally catching both layers on the back piece and top layer of the front piece.

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Tada! I love my new warm winter nursing friendly shirt! It screams fashionable and not I’m nursing! 🙂 When you’re done nursing you can still wear it as is… or cut out the under layer!

20151123_150424

 

Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Nursing, Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized 9 Comments

Layer Me Up Nursing Hack

November 23, 2015

I love wearing my Layer Me Up tanks under cardigans during the fall and long sleeve option during the winter.  I can pull down the neckline to nurse, but I love to have something up and down for nursing in public.  So, this hack was born!

It is quick and easy too, which is a plus if you’re nursing and taking care of baby!

I cut out one layer me up exactly as the pattern calls for.  I added one piece using the front piece.  I measured from my armpit to below my bust and transferred that to the pattern piece.  This will become my lift up piece hidden under my normal pieces.

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Since the layer me up is a tight fit shirt that requires a 50% stretch spandex blend fabric, you don’t necessarily need to add any elastic to keep it from stretching out with wear/pulling throughout the day.  But, you might want to add it to the bottom raw edge of the hidden lift up piece just to add a little weight and to keep it from shifting around at all during wear.  I serged it on, then hemmed under.

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I wanted the under piece hidden, so I trimmed about 1/2″ from the neckline.  You could hem it under if you wanted it to be pretty :).

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Pin your under layer to the wrong side of the front piece and sew up your shirt normal–the only other modification is at the neckline.  You will attach the neckband only to the main shirt and leave your hidden piece loose.  This way it is free to come up when nursing.

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Now you have a shirt that looks perfectly “normal” and can pull down the neckline and hidden piece up to nurse!  You can wear it after just as is, or cut out your hidden piece and wear :).

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I grabbed a lovely colored ribbed knit without thinking (remember I have a tiny newborn 😉 ) and it had HORRIBLE recovery.  No spandex— it grew and grew and grew! So, I will be trying this hack again in the correct material!

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And of course, one with Little Guy photobombing 🙂

Filed Under: How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Nursing, Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

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