Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 2

Welcome to the second day of our Rainbow dress Sew Along! Today we create the skirt by sewing the colorblock pieces and adding the the optional pockets. But let’s be honest here, who would skip the pockets? 😉

I love to lay the pieces in order (1 to 5) on the table, right side up to make sure I don’t mix them up. Place piece 5 over piece 4 and sew along the edge. I like to use my serger for this step (just remember the seam allowance is 1/2″!) however, you can sew the colorbloking part with a straight stitch. That part of the skirt will not be stretched when worn. 

Top stitching the seams is optional, however, encouraged. I don’t like the feel of the seam allowance  against my skin so I always top stitch it down. You can do this with your coverstitch, twin needles or just a simple straight stitch. 

It’s pockets time! Using the marking on the pattern, place your pocket pieces on the skirt, right sides together. Sew this step with your sewing machine! I show you in today’s video how to alternate between the sewing machine and serger when you add pockets to the skirt. 

You can see how I create my skirt in the video below. Once you complete today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 2 photo. You can find the Rainbow dress SAL album in the M4M/P4P sew along group on Facebook. 

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

Rainbow Dress SEW ALONG – day 1

Welcome to the 🌈 Rainbow🌈 Dress SEW ALONG! 

Day 1 is reserved for printing the pattern and cutting the fabric. But first, if you have not purchased the Rainbow dress you can grab it here. If you’re sewing for a little one, a youth pattern is available too. You will get the most bank for your buck with the Bundle option, just think of all the matching dresses and tops! Before you select which style you are sewing along, browse over the Round Up Blog where we show you all options available.

Now that you have the patterns it’s time to select which file format you would like to use. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print with a plotter or at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric. 

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. Our most recent patterns include videos as well so be sure to check them out!

Let’s talk a little about the right fabric for this pattern. As you can see in the video below I am using Bamboo Spandex from Hissy Fit Fabrics for my dress. This is by far my favorite knit type for this pattern. I also like a soft Cotton Spandex, sweater knit, Rayon Spandex, Modal, ITY, Cupro and Double Brushed Poly for it. All these bases can be layered so beautifully for cooler weather.

Hissy Fit Fabrics is also the sponsor for this sew along so our two lucky winners will receive gift cards to their shop.

If you are unsure about which knit type will work best for your desired look, take a look over our P4P University Knit Types blog. Judy also included a cheat sheet that you can print. If you are like me and sometime are just keen on using a specific print for a specific pattern, read our Different fabric, different fit blog post before you cut your fabric.

I decided to add a cute piping detail to my collar. I love store bought piping but you can certainly make your own or just use faux piping. 

Day 1 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of it in the comments of the Day 1 photo of the Rainbow Dress SAL album  in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

 

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 1 | Cut fabric

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 2 | Create rainbow skirt and add optional pockets

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 3 | Create collar

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 4 | Sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 5 | Add sleeves and sew side seams

Rainbow Dress SAL – day 6 | Add skirt and hem

Rainbow Dress SAL – day  7 | Winners Announcement 

P4P University – Interfacing for Garment Sewing

 

The correct use of interfacing is one of the main things that takes your garment sewing to the next level.  Today we will be talking about different types of interfacing, why you might want to use it and how to correctly apply it.

 

The first thing we need to clarify is the difference between stabiliser and interfacing.  Getting these two confused is easy to do, and people can often buy the wrong one for their needs, but their uses are quite different.

STABILISER

Stabiliser is a type of textile used to add extra weight to a particular part of a piece of fabric, usually so some sort of decorative work can be added to that section.  For example, you might add stabiliser to the wrong side of the front of a pair of children’s pyjamas to add some embroidery or applique to the bodice.  The stabiliser helps keep the fabric from distorting when adding the decoration to it.  It can be left on, trimmed down or torn off after use, depending on it’s type.  The picture below shows some embroidery on the reverse of a pair of pyjamas.  You can see the tear-away stabiliser still sitting between the A and the Y, after the rest has been removed.

INTERFACING

Interfacing is a type of textile used on the wrong side of a fabric to make that particular area stronger/more weighty.  For example it is often used in shirt collars to help them stand upright.  The interfacing gives the fabric more rigidity and is not removed, it is permanently attached. 

 

There are two types of interfacing, differentiated by the way you attach them to your fabric.  ‘Sew In’ interfacing is sewn onto the wrong side of your main fabric, within the seam allowance so it is not visible when the garment is finished.  Alternatively it can be quilted on in a particular pattern of your choice, so that it is visible when completed.  It seems to be less popular these days, but is the traditional, couture interfacing.

More popular is ‘Fusible’ interfacing.  This is the same as ‘Sew In’ but it has a layer of heat activated adhesive on the wrong side, which means it can be ironed directly onto the wrong side of your main fabric and adheres permanently.  The instructions for ironing will either be printed on the selvedge, if you have bought it by the metre, or they will be on the packet if you have bought it bagged.  It is important that you ensure the interfacing is fully adhered before sewing the garment together because otherwise it can start to peel off and look messy. This picture below shows an example of an iron-on interfacing attached to the wrong side of a piece of cotton.

 

Interfacing comes in many different weights, from a light weight interfacing used to add a little extra body to the facing on a silk blouse, to a very heavy weight interfacing used to reinforce the brim of a cap/hat.  I used a medium weight interfacing along the placket of my So Classic Sundress to give added support for the poppers and stop it distorting with wear.

Pattern instructions will advise you which weight of interfacing you will need, so that you can ensure you purchase the type needed to get the finish shown in the pattern listing pictures. For example, the Timeless Tunic notions require a lightweight interfacing for adding body to the neckline facing to help it keep the correct shape.

You will also find interfacing used in woven patterns to add body/structure/strength to shoulder seams, around pocket openings, along plackets, in collars, and even over entire bodice and sleeve pieces in jackets and coats.

KNIT/STRETCH INTERFACING

As well as woven interfacing, you can also find knit/stretch interfacing used for adding greater structure or strength to knit fabrics.  It can be used to stop these fabrics from stretching out too far, for example it is often used around pockets in a knit dress, so that the dress doesn’t become misshapen with use.  I like to use it to add greater structure to the front of my Go To Jacket before sewing on the zipper, as it helps stop the fabric stretching out when attaching the non-stretch zipper to the stretch fabric.

 

In this video I discuss a few different types of interfacing and show how they are adhered to fabric.  Sometimes seeing the fabrics being handled can give you a much clearer idea of what they would be like to use in real life.

Whichever type or weight of interfacing you need, the pattern you are using will give you details of what you need and when you need to use it.

 

Now that you know more about how to use interfacing, why not take a look at one of these patterns above or the Timeless Tunic or Tiny Timeless and put your new found skills to use.

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cutie Booty Boxer Briefs :: New Pattern Release

I’m excited to release the new pattern out to the world and hope it’s as loved as it is here in my house! I had a pair of underwear just like this for so many years they were literally falling apart at many seams LOL…So… let’s welcome the newest Patterns for Pirates patterns:

 

The Cutie Booty and Cutie Patootie Boxer Briefs are a classic, snug fit boxer brief with a center front and back pieces that are perfect for using up those previous scraps you’ve hoarded 😉 The shorts style are so wonderful that you don’t have to worry about them creeping up into the dreaded wedgie! These are my very favorite summer pjs and they’re perfectly perfect under dresses as well. There are so many options for waistbands, leg finishes, inseams, rises that you’re surely to find the right combination for yourself or anyone you’re sewing a pair up for.
Drafted for high stretch (4 way stretch) knit fabrics like cotton spandex.  You’re free to venture out and try other high stretch knits, but a good quality cotton spandex is hands down my absolute favorite fabric for these.
Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like multiple complete sew ups covering many options and how to attach lace waistband.

The youth sizes range from 12m – 14 and the adult sizes are XXS – Plus 5X.

*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at all of the options!

There are three options for rise: low, mid, and high. Low hits around hip bones, mid hits at preferred waist, and high up around belly button. It includes three inseam length options: short, mid, and long.  Depending on the leg finishing option you choose will also determine the inseam length- we include how to hem, add knit bands, or add stretch lace for finishing the legs. For the waistband we included three options as well! You can grab some exposed elastic for a super classic look, a knit band for a quick and easy sew, or some stretch lace for a soft and pretty look.

I mentioned I LOVE this style for sleeping in during the hotter months… so I put together a video showing off what tops I like to pair with this style…

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the adorable and comfortable Cutie Booty patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, April 27, 2021.

CUTIE BOOTY BOXER BRIEFS | CUTIE PATOOTIE BOXER BRIEFS | CUTIE BOOTY BOXER BRIEFS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

ADULT| YOUTH

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Cutie Booty Easy Hack post.

 

P4P University – Armbands Tips and Tricks

P4P University – Armbands Tips and Tricks

 

I’m going to spend a little time today showing how I get the best finish on my armbands.  They can be quite tricky to get right and people often struggle with ‘bubbling’ over the shoulder, which can ruin the look of an otherwise perfect neckline.

The pattern I will be using to illustrate how I sew my armbands is the Youth Essential Tank.  There are many different cut lengths, from shirt to dress length and the option for a regular tank or a racerback cutline.  Today I will be sewing the shirt length tank option for my daughter, ready for the summer weather which we are all desperate for right now!

The first thing to remember is that there are pattern pieces for you to use for the neckband and armband options and these are calculated at 85% of the opening, but the fabric you use may need you to make some adjustments to those pieces to get the perfect fit.  A fabric like a 100% cotton interlock won’t have as much stretch as you may need and you will probably want to add a little length to your bands, perhaps recalculate at 90%.  Something like a ribbing/cuffing has lots of stretch and that could be cut at 75 or 80% to get the same look. Either way you will want to ensure that you sew the shoulder and side seams of your garment at the full ½” seam allowance or you will find that the bands won’t be long enough, as not using the full seam allowance will make your neck/arm openings wider than they were drafted to be.

If you prefer a video, I filmed the process of making my Essential Tank here:

Sew your shoulder seams and then prep your neckband by sewing the short sides, right sides together to form a loop.  Fold your fabric wrong sides together around the long edge and then place a clip at the joining seam.  Place another clip at the other end of the band by stretching the band a little to find the centre point opposite the joining seam.  Unlike a regular neckband, we won’t be quartering the neckhole and the neckband, just halving. Find the centre front and centre back of your neckhole and place clips. You should have this.

Next, evenly stretch the neckband until it fits the neckhole and clip the neckband to the neckhole at the shoulder seam (this won’t be the normal quarter point as the shoulder seam will be further towards the back). Then also place clips 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam NOT STRETCHING THE NECKBAND BETWEEN THESE THREE CLIPS. (If making an adult sized tank I wouldn’t stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the remaining neckband in between the clips either side of the shoulder seam and the centre front and back clips.

Sew the neckband on, making sure to use the full seam allowance, and remembering not to stretch the neckband over the shoulder seams.  This reduces the tension on the neckband here and helps to stop the ‘bubbling’ we spoke of earlier.  I prefer to sew with the band uppermost as it helps me keep an eye on the seam allowance. I also like to start sewing just before the shoulder seam as this is the area we will NOT be stretching as we sew.  It is easy to forget about this if you come to it at the end of sewing the neckband on, so I like to do this part straightaway so I don’t have to worry about forgetting about it later.

TIP – If you have difficulty managing the three layers when sewing the neckband on, or if your fabric has a tendency to curl badly, I recommend sewing the neckband together around the long raw edge before attaching it to the bodice.  You can either use your overlocker/serger without trimming any seam allowance off, or do a zig zag stitch with your sewing machine right at the edge (you may need to stretch the neckband slightly as you sew round, just to make sure it will still fit in the neckhole after sewing this temporary stitch).  It just keeps those two layers together whilst you are sewing it onto the bodice, then you simply trim if off with your serger blade when you attach it, or trim with scissors if using a sewing machine.

Press with steam and then topstitch.  You can either use a chain stitch as I have here, or a regular 2 or 3 needle coverstitch.  If you have a sewing machine then you can choose a twin needle, long straight stitch or zig zag/stretch stitch of your choosing.

Next we move onto the armbands which are sewn in the same way as the neckband.  First sew the short ends to form a loop, then fold wrong sides together and mark the seam and opposite point on the band with clips or pins.

The armbands are a little easier because more often than not you find the shoulder and underarm seams are opposite one another.  I like to put the armband seam at the bottom of the armscye, for comfort and so you cannot see it when it is worn, then clip in place.  Next clip the opposite end of the armband to the shoulder seam.  Again, clip the armband to the armhole WITHOUT STRETCHING for 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam (again for a larger sized adult tank, I would not stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the rest of the armband into the armhole between the other clips.  The idea behind this is that it should allow the armband to run flat over the shoulder seam, but then the added tension around the bottom of the armband will encourage it to flip up and sit snug against the side of the body at the bottom and sides.  

Sew, using the full seam allowance, then press with steam and top stitch as before.

Finish the rest of your garment as usual, and you’re done.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful and don’t forget if you have any questions we have a large community on our Facebook page who are always happy to help.

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Dana x

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