p4p Archives - Page 29 of 29 - Patterns for Pirates

FST/LMU Mash Nursing Hack

November 25, 2015

I love the FST and LMU mash for after baby. It makes me feel stylish, put together and comfortable! The loose aline look hides any left over baby belly and the tighter top doesn’t feel you leaving frumpy.

For this hack I essentially did a double layer body. I can lift up the top layer and have the bottom layer covering my back/belly during nursing. And it looks like a perfectly “normal” everyday shirt! 🙂

I made mine completely doubled because we are going into winter here and I didn’t mind the added warmth. If I was making this for spring or summer months I would probably tinker with a faux double layer for the back piece.

I cut 2 front and back pieces.

Then took 1 front piece to modify for the under layer. I measured on myself from the neckline to under my bust (I did happen to have on the same shirt, so I didn’t even need to guess where the neckline hit ;)). Then I transferred that measurement to the front center and curved up to the armpit.

Since the FST flares out under the bust it was a little loose there. So I added a thin elastic to the raw edge. I just held the elastic taute (not tight) on my body from seam to seam (again, I happen to be wearing this shirt, so there was no guessing!). This way the two layers would have the same finish length–without the elastic holding up the center it would droop lower then the top layer. As well as not worry about holding it up while nursing–bonus :).

I choose to put my elastic on the right side of my under layer, because I didn’t want to feel it against my skin. But you can put it on the wrong side so that it is hidden when you nurse– whatever you prefer! You will need to stretch the elastic to fit the curve. I serged mine on, but any stretch stitch will work! It will line up right at the armpit.

I sewed the shoulder seams and sleeves on like normal. Then when going down the side seams I kept the main body layers seperate (so you can lift the top layer freely). It is a bit tricky right at the armpit, but just go slowly and remember you wont be showing anyone the inside of your armpit seam! 😉

Now for hemming, I choose to hem the top layer completely normal with a 1″ allowance.

For the under layer I choose to add a pretty lace trim to stick out longer then the top layer. I wanted the seam hidden, so I trimmed off 1″ from the bottom.

I serged my lace on right sides together trimming off about 1/2″ of both shirt and lace (the top of the lace that was blank).

Then flipped up and top-stitched (I didn’t want that seam flipping and showing through the dainty lace trim!). So, I trimmed 1″ and took off another 1/2″. This means my seam on the under layer should be 1/2″ above the hemmed edge of my top layer and the lace will peek out below.

I attached the neckband normally catching both layers on the back piece and top layer of the front piece.

Tada! I love my new warm winter nursing friendly shirt! It screams fashionable and not I’m nursing! 🙂 When you’re done nursing you can still wear it as is… or cut out the under layer!

Layer Me Up Nursing Hack

November 23, 2015

I love wearing my Layer Me Up tanks under cardigans during the fall and long sleeve option during the winter. I can pull down the neckline to nurse, but I love to have something up and down for nursing in public. So, this hack was born!

It is quick and easy too, which is a plus if you’re nursing and taking care of baby!

I cut out one layer me up exactly as the pattern calls for. I added one piece using the front piece. I measured from my armpit to below my bust and transferred that to the pattern piece. This will become my lift up piece hidden under my normal pieces.

Since the layer me up is a tight fit shirt that requires a 50% stretch spandex blend fabric, you don’t necessarily need to add any elastic to keep it from stretching out with wear/pulling throughout the day. But, you might want to add it to the bottom raw edge of the hidden lift up piece just to add a little weight and to keep it from shifting around at all during wear. I serged it on, then hemmed under.

I wanted the under piece hidden, so I trimmed about 1/2″ from the neckline. You could hem it under if you wanted it to be pretty :).

Pin your under layer to the wrong side of the front piece and sew up your shirt normal–the only other modification is at the neckline. You will attach the neckband only to the main shirt and leave your hidden piece loose. This way it is free to come up when nursing.

Now you have a shirt that looks perfectly “normal” and can pull down the neckline and hidden piece up to nurse! You can wear it after just as is, or cut out your hidden piece and wear :).

I grabbed a lovely colored ribbed knit without thinking (remember I have a tiny newborn 😉 ) and it had HORRIBLE recovery. No spandex— it grew and grew and grew! So, I will be trying this hack again in the correct material!

And of course, one with Little Guy photobombing 🙂

Tips on sewing with silky fabrics

July 24, 2015

I have two patterns that I suggest using a lightweight woven with a very soft drape (Everyday Elegance Top and the Summer Cover Up). I often get asked for “tips and tricks” to working with this kinds of fabrics! So, here is a compiled list of a few tips I have for working with slippery wovens like chiffon, peach skin, rayon, satin, challis, ect.

I think the most difficult part of sewing something up in this fabric is the cutting. I almost always use pattern weights like these:

But with any kind of slippery fabric they’re a MUST! If you don’t have any, use any kind of paper weight, heavy object that isn’t too tall. The silver paper weights are from this Etsy Shop if you’re looking to buy. She has several options in her shop, I prefer the shorter version to be able to get my scissors closer to them! The pink were hand-me-downs from my mama <3.

Some specialty wovens are harder then others– if you’re cutting anything that needs to be precise (collar piece) then I recommend only cutting ONE layer at a time. With something as loose and forgiving as the kimono though, I don’t personally bother with it. 🙂

So, lets get started sewing! I recommend using a nice, new, sharp needle for these.

I also like to tighten my stitch length down one notch to keep away from puckers.

When sewing my BIGGEST TIP is to not OVERWORK the fabric. Although it is a non-stretch woven they will get “wonky” and pull out of shape if you do. Don’t pull or “man-handle” the fabric to make anything match! If your pieces aren’t lining up perfectly it is almost always a cutting mistake (remember I said that was the most difficult part!).

The good thing is most clothing made from these drapey fabrics are loose fitting and forgiving :). Trim and let it go 😉

After I sew, I PRESS. It takes a little more time, but it makes your end product much more professional.

French seams:

I had a lot of questions about using french seams. I don’t tend to care what the inside of my clothes look like a TON. But for nicer items in specialty wovens french seams would be nice. Here is my quick how to:

You will place your pieces WRONG side together and make the first stitch. For my patterns with 1/2″ seam allowances I do the first stitch at 1/4″. Then trim it to 1/8″. I press the seam on both the wrong and right sides of the garment flat, then fold at the seam and press again.

Now with RIGHT sides together and first seam pressed inside stitch again at 1/4″ from fold/seamline. This should enclose your raw edge from the first seam allowance and put you at your 1/2″ seam allowance total for the seam.

Again press from wrong and right sides of garment. I tend to always press to the back. You can top-stitch here if you prefer. I do lengthen my stitch length back out to 3 for top-stitching. Press again 🙂 Do you see an important trend in this? lol!

Hemming:

My prefered way to hem is to serge the edge—- I loosen my tension a tad to fight the puckering.

Then I press the serged edge over twice for a nice even narrow hem. Okay, most the time I don’t press…but you SHOULD press, I can hear my mom telling me to take my time and press every time I don’t 😉

Now I DO press after EVERY TIME! I see a lot of seamstresses complain their hems are “wonky” on specialty wovens, two things cause this- over working your fabric/pulling it as you sew and not pressing! A good press after can really change the way your hem looks!

I got asked to show how to hem without a serger; so here is how I hemmed without a serger. I pressed WITH LOTS OF STARTCH (don’t be scared to use some or lots 😉 ) a 1/2″ to wrong side.

Then I opened the 1/2″ hem and folded the raw edge to the fold line. This creates a 1/4″ narrow hem fold. Press again.

Tada! You can sew with specialty wovens! The biggest tips are: cut carefully, don’t pull your fabric as you sew and press, press and press again 🙂

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