Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Summer PJs easy hack

As with all new P4P patterns our blog team has some easy hacks ready for you to take your Summer Pjs up a notch. It is a sizzling summer after all…

Knit and FOE

Let’s start with a simple fabric switch. If you are anything like me you have piles and piles of knit fabric in your stash. Let’s make the Summer Pjs with jersey knit. The other replacement we are making is switching the bias tape for FOE (fold over elastic).

I used 5/8″ FOE for mine but any width bigger would work too. One of my favorite parts of making the Summer PJs with knit is that I can coverstitch the hem.

Sew the PJs as instructed in the tutorial. When adding FOE simply fold it in half and sew it on with a lightning bolt stitch or triple stretch stitch. You can get away with using a straight stitch since the pattern has plenty of positive ease so you won’t really be stretching the binding.

I left the FOE as is for the back strap but you can certainly fold that one over as well.

Use lots of pins when adding the long back strap. It will help if you steam press the FOE fold prior to pinning or clipping it in place.

That’s it! No changes made to the actual pattern pieces just fabric choice…easy peasy!

Lace Insert

If you are looking to make your Summer Pjs just a little more sexy…why not add a lace insert to the front of the top or nightie? Grab your favorite lace or very wide lace trim and let’s get started. Cut the fabric as instructed in the pattern. Using a disappearing pen, like a Frixion , mark on the front piece the “V” you would like to be lace. This is where you choose how “risque” you would like to make your pajamas. Mark another line 1/4″ inside of the first one. This will be your cutting line for the main fabric. Cute along the green line and remove the inside triangle.

Cut down your lace a 1/4″ bigger than the size of the bigger triangle. If you use gallon lace or trim make sure the pretty details (like Judy’s black accent) is at the top. Mark 1/4″ inside the V lace triangle with the disappearing pen or tailor chalk. This will be the stitching line.

Place your lace triangle over the front piece right sides together matching the stitching lines (red). Sew over the marked lines with a straight stitch, pivoting at the center V. Flip the lace piece inside the main fabric and finish the raw edges with a zig zag stitch. Top stitch 1/8″ away from the edge.

If your lace has a raw edge at the top, follow the pattern to add bias binding. If your using lace with a finished edge like Judy’s then simply skip the front bias tape.

All you have left to do now is enjoy your new sexy summer pajamas.

 

Ruffles

Ruffles can add such a soft, feminine detail and to me, the new Summer PJ’s has so many great places to add a ruffle. One of the first places is the legs. You can add ruffles to either the cheekie or shorts length. For this tutorial, I added ruffles to the shorts length.

To begin, you will want to assemble your shorts as directed by the tutorial, with the exception of hemming.

Once you’ve constructed your shorts, you will need cut your bands that will be used for the ruffles. The band needs to be 3″ x width of fabric. If you would like your ruffle more full, you can always sew two strips together to create a fuller look.

Once the strips are cut, you will want to press them in half, with wrong sides together.  Unfold your strips. With right sides together, stitch the ends together, using a 1/2″ seam allowance to create a loop.

Re-fold your band. Using the longest straight stitch on your machine, create your gathering stitches. You will want to use two rows of stitches, one at a 1/4″ from the raw edge and a second 5/8″. Repeat on other band.

Mark the middle of your band with a pin or clip. Pulling the bobbin thread, begin to gather your band. You will then want to match up the seam of the band with the crotch seam and the middle with the outside leg seam.

Evenly distribute your gathers and attach using a 1/2″ seam allowance. To finish, press the seam up and top stitch around the legs if wished!

Another quick and easy way to add ruffles to the Summer PJ’s is to add one to the neckline. I chose to add this to my daughter’s nightgown and we are both in love with the results. Many of the steps will be the same as above. After cutting out your top, stitch your side seams together. For the ruffle, you will want to cut a strip of fabric that is 3″ x double the width of the neckline. Press this strip of fabric in half, wrong sides together.

Using the longest straight stitch, create your gathering stitches by stitching a straight line at both 1/4″ and 5/8″ from the raw edge.

To gather, pull the bobbin thread until the strip is the same width as the neckline (** Leave 1/2″ ungathered on both ends to help reduce bulk when attaching the binding).  Baste around the armscyes and neckline to hold ruffle in place.

Continue to finish the top according to the tutorial, attaching the binding to the neckline as instructed, treating the ruffle and neckline as one.

Now that you have your youth and adult Summer PJs, and learned some easy hacks, time to get creative with your own pajamas. Don’t forget to share your pretties in the P4P Facebook group so we can all marvel at their beauty.

Alex and Erinn

Tulip Tee Easy Hacks + 100k Sale-A-Bration Day 6!

The Tiny Tulip and the Tulip Tee are not only free but also packed with options. Well that didn’t stop the P4P blog contributors team to show you some easy hacks that will give you even more looks.

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Ruffle on girls tee

Adding a ruffle is so easy and gives such a cute look! The tulip is a long hemline to add one, so keep that in mind when picking how wide and gathered you’re making it.  I choose to make mine just one layer (not folded) with a raw edge so keep it from being heavier on her. I also wish I would’ve not gathered the under tulip section in hindsight! So, learn from me and do the top section that hides under not gathered 🙂 to keep it flatter underneath and lighter as well.

I quickly measured my hemline and doubled, plus a bit extra for wiggle room.  I cut a few strips to that length and the width I wanted. Another thing to think about is how wide the ruffle will be on the shoulder (you don’t want it wider than the shoulder piece once attached).  Mine is about 2″ finished.

Seam the strips together and gather using your favorite gathering method.  If you need more guidance in gathering here is our blog post with a few ways we like to gather: www.patternsforpirates.com/easy-gathering-methods .  I used my serger to gather this time.

With right sides together, pin the ruffle to the hemline of the shirt. This is where I would advice to pull the ruffle flat along the top edge of one tulip piece so that it is flat on the under layer instead of completely ruffled like mine.

Stitch on.  You can top-stitch if you prefer; I didn’t only to keep from adding anymore weight to the top since I was using a light weight rayon spandex.

Complete the shirt as the tutorial instructs.  Take some cute pictures!

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Banded tulip option

We know some of you are not be fans of hemming 😉 so I wanted to show you how easy it is to add a band to the Tulip Tee. Simply sew the side seams as instructed and then measure the bottom raw edge.

It is easier to fold the shirt along the back fold and measure as shown below then multiply by two.

You will cut the band 2″ by the length of the raw edge. For sizes 4T and smaller you may get away with only one band out of the width of fabric. For bigger sizes, including the women ones you will need to cut the 2-3 band pieces. You can either cut two pieces plus seam allowance and have a seam on the center back or you can cut 3 band pieces, 2″ by the length of the tulip raw edge and one 2″ the length of the back bottom raw edge.

Fold the band length wise, wrong sides together and press. Pin in place the band along the raw edge of the tulip and back bottom. Sew or serge in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Optionally top stitch. Press and steam iron and continue sewing as per the tutorial.

All done! Super easy, right? Please note that this method will yield a shirt that is 1/2″ longer than the original length.

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Bands on short sleeves

Hate hemming?  Then this hack is for you!  Adding bands instead of hemming is a great alternative way to finish raw edges.  If you’ve sewn other shirts you’ve likely done this technique before; it’s very easy to calculate on your own.

 

You’re done!  No hemming needed. 🙂

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Faux cami layer

Love the look of wearing a camisole under your tulip tee but don’t want to wear and another layer? Adding a faux cami to the tulip back option is an easy hack that offers a little more coverage and takes only a few quick minutes.


For this easy hack you will need to cut both the two tulip back pieces and a plain back piece. Begin by taking the plain back piece and pressing raw edge of bottom hem 1/2” up to wrong side. Hem.

With right sides together, place one tulip bodice on the plain bodice. Pin or clip in place. Repeat with opposite side tulip bodice. Place the plain back piece right side down on top of the front/tulip pieces, matching side seams.

Pin or clip in place. Stitch side seams and then continue on finishing your top as instructed in the pattern tutorial. That’s the whole hack, simple as that!

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Tank

 

 

With a couple of small modifications, you can turn the Tulip Tee in to a Tank.

 

Using the tulip crossover piece as a guide for the shoulder width, mark and draw a vertical line to the bottom of the dolman sleeve opening and then draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the dolman sleeve opening to your previously drawn line (shown in red).  Next, using a french curve, draw the armscye from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the dolman sleeve, but stopping at the side seam to remove the “wing” of the dolman. (shown in blue).   Sew up your top as per the tutorial.  To finish the armholes, I chose to hem 1/2″.  This will give you a more open and lower armhole.  If you prefer to band them, use the same method Elisabeth did above, when adding bands to the short sleeve. (Armband = 2″ by .085 of the opening +1″ seam allowance).

 

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Tulip Cowl 

We all love a cozy sweater and I couldn’t resist replicating this boutique style top that has been circulating the sewing groups lately. Our Tulip Tee and Tiny Tee were the perfect base. For the Cowl piece I used our Raglan Add-On Cowl and Jolly Roger Add-On Cowl pieces.  I did not make any changes here for the size Large or Size 4 youth, but just throwing caution in the wind, check your pieces so that the neckline of the Tulip body and the cowl equal one another before cutting in to your beloved sweater knits.  I did not check each size to confirm they all fit exactly.

Sew up both the tulip top and Cowl pieces as instructed in their respective tutorials.

Women’s Tab Piece: 11″ x 3″

Youth Tab Piece: 7″ x 3″ (Note: I made a size 4, so you may need to adjust the length of the tab. Subtract 1″ from the height of the cowl pattern piece to determine the length.  You can adjust it longer or shorter depending how tight you want the tab around the cowl)

Tadah!

 

If you love our Tulip Hacks as much as we do, be sure to hop on over to our Facebook Group and share with us!

 

 

Boundless – Easy Hacks

As you’ve seen, the Boundless dress got an update and we released the highly requested, youth version. We couldn’t let this double event go by without showing you some easy hacks.

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Neckband

 

If you like the unlined option but prefer to not hem the neckline you can easily add a neckband like we have in most of our patterns.

Simply sew the dress as instructed and then grab a measuring tape to establish the neck opening. The opening will vary depending on the size and options you made (low front/back, high front/back or low front/high back)

The neckband will be 85% of the neck opening plus seam allowance. For example, if the neck opening is 34″ then the neckband needs to be 34″x0.85 + 1″ which is 30″. You will cut one neckband 2″ by 30″.

NL X 0.85 +1 = NB

*NL – neckline opening

*NB – neckband length

 

Sew the neckband right sides together at the short ends to create a loop. Press the neckband in half lengthwise and mark its quarters. Mark the quarters of the neck opening. Matching the neckband and opening quarter marks, pin and sew the neckband in place with 1/2″ seam allowance.

Note: adding a neckband will yield a neckline 1/2″ higher than the intended pattern look.

Before you get started take a look over our Neckbands 101 blog which also includes helpful videos.

TIP: If you would like your Boundless dress to still be reversible (front and back) place the neckband seam on the side shoulder. 

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Boundless/Sweetheart mash

Looking for a quick and easy way to avoid the gathers on the Boundless? Or are you looking to create the perfect twirly dress? The Boundless mashes perfectly with skirt from the Sweetheart and can help to create either of this looks! If you have little ones, you can also use these same steps to pair the Boundless Youth with the Me Hearties.

Cutting Pieces:

You will need to cut out your Boundless bodice pieces as directed and based off of the options you choose. For mine, I used the lined version with the low neckline and 3/4 sleeves. For the skirt, you will need to have the skirt from the Sweetheart printed and then choose your length. I used the mini length.

Assembly:

Assemble your Boundless bodice as directed. You will then need to mark the quarter points on both the bodice and the skirt.

With RST, match the quarter points and attach your skirt with your serger or stretch stitch. (Note: You may wish to place elastic in the waist to help give your skirt additional support.)

Hem the skirt and sleeves and you’re all finished!

~Erinn,

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Back ties

 

The next hack we have for you is super easy back ties. I love this hack for the lined low back option but you can certainly apply it to the high neckline cut.

Print the pattern as instructed. Cut two trips of fabric, 3″ by 18″. You will be changing this measurements if you’re sewing a youth Boundless or if you prefer your ties narrower/wider or shorter/longer.

Fold the ties right sides together length wise and sew the edge with a 1/2 seam allowance leaving one of the ends open. Turn the ties inside out and press them. Optionally, you can top stitch.

Take the back piece of the bodice and pin the open edge of one strap 2″ down from the shoulder as shown below. Repeat with the other side. Sew them in place.

That’s it! All you have to do now is sew the bodice as per the tutorial making sure you do not catch the ties.

Get creative! Using the Cross My Heart Cami straps as inspiration you can add some really fun accents to the back or the front of the Boundless dress.

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Ruffles maxi

Add a little boho spirit to the maxi with this simple hack!

You will need a little extra yardage than the required maxi.  You will cut your skirt to the “below knee length” for youth (for adult I’d suggest either knee or tea depending on how deep you’d like your bottom ruffle).

To cut your ruffle you’ll take the “maxi length” and minus the “below knee length”- add 1/2″ for seam allowance- this is your length measurement.  Width will be double the width of the skirt measurement normally for that size.

Sew up your dress exactly per the tutorial until you get to the bottom hem.  Instead of hemming, we will add the ruffle.  Gather the top of the ruffle using your favorite gathering method.  I used a rayon spandex, which tends to stretch out vertically easily- so I used the double rows of basting method to avoid adding any extra weight to the skirt bottom.

Following the popular boho look- I just overlapped the top of my ruffle to the bottom skirt hem leaving the exposed raw edge. I stitched the ruffle on top the skirt between my two basted rows with a stretch stitch.  Removed the basted stitches and gave it a press. I didn’t hem bottom edge just to match the raw edge on the ruffle (but that is just personal preference). I also added some fun trim along the gathered stitch line for some extra pizzazz 😉

My daughter just LOVES this dress! I think it might top her favorite dress I’ve ever made her so far in fact! I guess she’s a little boho baby girl, she also wants to wear this hat for every photoshoot now 😉

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Crop Top

Crop tops seems to never really go out of style and we’ve seen some requests for it lately.  The Boundless bodice already has a natural waist cutline so is a great base to create a simple crop top.  Sew up the bodice as you would in the tutorial but instead of adding the skirt, just hem the bottom edge 1/2″.  If you chose to line the bodice, you can hem the main and lining towards one another, like the lined sleeve option in the tutorial.  I chose a scalloped edge lace as my outer layer, so only hemmed my lining.

For my skirt, I used the waistband measurements from our Sweetheart SAL HERE and used the natural waist skirt option of the Boundless.  I did have to shorten the skirt a couple of inches to account for the added waistband but gathered and constructed per the pattern.  Instead of attaching to the bodice, just attach the skirt to the waistband.  Super simple right?!

We hope you all enjoy the updated Boundless Knit Dress and newly released youth Boundless as much as we do.  Be sure to share your makes in the P4P Facebook Group!

Boho Babydoll – Easy Hacks

 

As with all other P4P releases we couldn’t let the Boho Babydoll party start without some easy hacks that you can do for both the women and the girls tops/dresses.

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Waist Ties

The Boho Babydoll Dress and Shirt is a relaxed it at the waist so I wanted to start these hacks by showing you how easy it is to add some fun waist ties top it. Print and cut your pattern and fabric as you normally would and cut two tie pieces 2″ by 28-34″ depending on how long you want the ties to be. For reference my ties are 34″ because I like to be able to tie them around my waist too.

Mark a point on both the front and back bodice pieces that is 3/4″ up from the waist edge.

Fold the ties wrong side together, lengthwise and sew them with a 1/2″ seam allowance. You will be sewing one of the short ends too.

Using your favorite turning tool, turn the ties inside out and give them a good press.

Pin the ties on the front bodice at the marking point you did earlier. The bottom of the tie length will be at the 3/4″ mark. Repeat on the other side of the front of the bodice.

Optionally, you can baste the ties to the bodice before you sew the side seam.

Sew the bodice as instructed. That was easy!

You can wear your ties tied in the front…

….or tied in the back…

…or if you made them long enough you can wrap them around your waist.

 

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Split Sides

 

During the summers, I like to attend a lot of concert festivals. One trend that I have noticed are tank tops with flowy layers- sometimes it’s the back, other times the front, but one of my favorites is on the sides. The Boho Babydoll makes the perfect starting point to create a comfortable tank with a cute little peek-a-boo side. I can’t wait to try this out as a swim cover as well with some fun lace or mesh. You can use these simple steps below to help recreate this look.

Step 1: Cutting Pieces

Cut out your pieces as instructed, with the exception of the skirt. (You can use any of the bodice options.) The only change that I made to the skirt was to add an additional 1″ to the fold of the FRONT piece. I did not make any adjustments to the back skirt. 

Step 2: Bodice/Hemming

You will want to assemble your bodice as per the pattern instructions, up to the skirt. Once your bodice is finished, you will want to hem your two skirt pieces. I did remove a small piece from the corner of my skirts to help create a smoother hem.

Step 3: Attaching Skirt

Once you’ve hemmed the skirts, you will want to create your gathering stitches. Taking your front piece, place right sides together with the front bodice and front skirt. Begin to pull your gathering stitches and even them out. Using your side seam as a guide, overlap the edge of the skirt piece 1″ past the seam and pin. Repeat the overlap on the opposite side seam.

Repeat the same process with the back skirt, however align the edge of the skirt with the side seam. 

Attach skirt using a stretch stitch or serger and you’re all finished!

This hack is quick to complete and gives a fun detail to your shirt! Not only can this look be fun for everyday, but it can also be used for a swim cover and even a nursing friendly shirt! Enjoy and make sure to share your creations in our Facebook Group!
~Erinn

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Trim Accents

 

A little detail can go a long way.  The baby doll is perfect for adding lace trim details as it is not fitted through the waist so using a crochet trim or non-stretch trim is an option.  You can also add trim around the neckline and armholes but would recommend using a stretch lace as you still need to be able to pull the top over your head.  For my option, I used a pretty narrow trim so constructed my dress as usual and then topstitched it along the seam allowance.  If using a wider trim, you can baste it to the bodice prior to attaching the skirt.

 

Here is another example on a youth version.  Judy used a crochet, non-stretch trim and top-stitched it on after construction to the bodice seam and the hem of the ruffle (both places that wont miss the stretch since they’re looser parts of the garment.

 

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Waist Seam Ruffle

Last but certainly not least we wanted to show you a different way to sew the skirt to the bodice. This method will give your waist a ruffled look without adding any ruffles or changing the pattern pieces.

For this easy hack you will not be modifying the pattern pieces or adding any additional ones. Print the pattern and cut the fabric for your size.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk mark the 1/2″ seam allowance on the bottom of the bodice.

Tip: for an extra pop of color finish the top of the skirt with a rolled hem.

Gather the skirt using two rows of basting stitches as in the pattern tutorial. You will now be pinning the skirt to the bodice. The wrong side of the skirt will be pinned to the right side of the bodice, making sure you match the side seams and the center point.

Sew the skirt to the bodice with a zig zag stitch, a triple stretch stitch or your coverstitch. Go really slow so you can ensure a constant 1/2″ seam allowance.

Pull the basting stitches out. One should be above your zig zag stitch, one should be below.

That was all. Your new Boho shirt or dress has an extra cute waist seam now 🙂

 

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