Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

SOS sal day 2 (cut fabric)

 

Welcome to day 2 of our SOS knit pants sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. You should have your pattern pieces ready from yesterday. If you haven’t removed the top part of the pocket on the front pieces, now is the time to do it.

But first let’s talk a little about the right fabric for the SOS pants. As you can see in the video below I am using a gorgeous athletic knit from Kammie Lou Lou for my SOS skinny pants. This poly base knit is custom printed and the perfect medium weight. For the straight leg I absolutely love French Terry or Baby French Terry for a casual/sporty feel and ponte for a more elegant look. I highly encourage you to avoid thinner knits like double brushed poly, low weight cotton spandex or bamboo spandex.

Kammie Lou Lou is this sew along’s sponsor too, so one of you will be getting a $75 Gift Card to the retail shop so you can treat your to some gorgeous custom printed fabric.

You will also need 1″ or 1.25″ elastic for the waistband. Not all elastic is the same, so keep that in mind when you choose knit elastic vs no roll elastic.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the SOS SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

 

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Let me start this much anticipated blog post with a “wow” ! You have outdone yourself this past week, braving technical difficulties and Facebook glitches. We have seen so many gorgeous Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouses being sewn and as always we had a hard task at hand…so… Without further ado: our big sew along winner is

STACIA ZINK! Her bright yellow bitty blouse caught the team’s eye, so adorable!

We loved that Stacia treated herself to a Brunch Blouse too. Great job! You have won a $20 gift card to Patterns for Pirates and a $50 gift card to Backstitch SoFlo.

As always, we have a runner up prize too! Congratulations, Melanie Carr!

Melanie’s BB tops are so beautiful and I’m sure they will become a staple in her closet. Melanie won a $20 gift card to Made for Mermaids and a $25 gift card to Backstitch SoFlo. Happy stitching!

A huge THANK YOU to Backstitch SoFlo for sponsoring this sew along.

 

Before I let you go, I wanted to show off my Mane Attraction Brunch Blouse dress that I absolutely love.

Stay tuned for the mermaids’  sew along announcement. You do not want to miss it!

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

And just like that we made it to the last sewing day. Today we are putting the finishing touches on out Brunch Blouses.

  • If you have sewn the tank option, you will be finishing the arm opening with bias binding. Here is a refresher blog on woven bias binding if you didn’t get to check it out yesterday.
  • If you opted for the cap sleeve style, I highly encourage you to fold your sleeve hem 1/4″ press, fold again 1/4″ and press and only then stitch. This will yield a very polished sleeve look.
  • I have selected the short sleeve option with a cuff and a snap tab. This is a great way to add accent colors and even use some decorative buttons.

The last sew along video is posted below. Take a look and once you are done sewing post your final picture in the DAY 7 COMMENTS of the BB/BBB sal album in the group…you know the drill 🙂 The team will pick out two winners on Wednesday so you have an extra day to catch up on your project.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Two more sewing days let in this SAL. Can you believe it? Today we will be focusing on the neckband. The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch blouse neckline is finished with bias binding. The pattern calls for single fold bias tape.

I am a huge supporter of store bought bias tape because it gives me more time to focus on other projects, plus the finishing tape is not visible from the outside of the BB shirt/dress. If you have a local Joann or Walmart, look through their notions walls, you will see single and double fold bias tape in a variety of colors.

However, if you are keen on matching the bias binding with the fabric you can certainly create your own. In this P4P University blog, Nicole and Judy teach you how to diy bias tape. Take a look over it and get to cutting.

Tip: The neckline gives you plenty of opportunity to add a personal touch to your blouses. Think, double fold bias tape or placing the single fold on the outside for a pop of color…think, decorative stitches …ohh the possibilities!

Go ahead and read the tutorial and watch day 6 video below. Once you finish sewing the bias binding one, snap a picture and add it to the comments of Day 6 photo of the BB/BBB sew along album.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

The 5th day of our sew along is here. Today we sew the shoulder and the side seam, probably the easiest day of the sew along 😉 Remember to use your sewing machine for this steps and just finish the raw edge with the serger or a zig zag stitch.

TIP: If you’re doing a hemmed sleeve now would be a good time to press your memory hem. This will make it so much easier to hem later on. 

The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse patterns follow a 1/2″ seam allowance so be sure to not deviate from it when you sew the shoulder seams and side seams.

Watch the day 5 video below and be sure to post a picture of today’s progress in the day 5 photo comments of the BB / BBB sew along album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Group.

 

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Good morning, pirates! Today we will be focusing on the pocket(s), waist ties and back seam. The pocket and waist ties and optional so if you are skipping them, you would only sew the back seam. Easy peasy!

You can add two pockets or just one, both would look just as cute. I personally like one contrasting pocket on the left side but I also like the look of two pockets from the same fabric.

The Brunch Blouse is a relaxed fit throughout the waist so the ties will help “cinch” you in, if you are going for an hour glass look. I absolutely love the shape of the ties and that you can tie them in the front or the back.

When you sew the back seam, remember to follow the 1/2 inch seam allowance and to stitch with your sewing machine. I know temptation to use just your serger is big but remember that a serger stitch is not as resilient to wear as a sewing machine straight stitch. Use your serger, but to finish the raw edges!

Take a look over today’s video and once you finish sewing post a picture of your progress in the comments of the Day 4 photo of the BB/BBB sew along album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Welcome to day 3 of our Brunch and Bitty Brunch sew along. Today we will be focusing on the darts (if you are sewing the women top or dress) and the placket.

Make sure that you transfer the dart marking from the pattern to the fabric’s wrong side. I love using water soluble marking pen because I know the lines with disappear once I stem it. Another tip I have for you when sewing darts is to press the dart before AND after you sew. Ironing it will help keep the fabric in place while stitching.

Second part of the day is dedicated to the henley style placket. This is a step that may scare first time henley makers but trust me when I say it, if you go slow and you press frequently, you will see that it is not as a daunting task as you thought. Before you get started, take a look over our Placket 101 blog. The videos I have in the P4P University blog are actually of the Brunch Blouse placket so you can certainly refer to it.

Below is a link to the Day 3 sew along video which includes both the dart and placket construction. Once you complete today’s steps, be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of the Brunch/Bitty Brunch sew along album.

 

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

 

Welcome to day 2 of our Brunch and Bitty Brunch  sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions and accessories. You should have your pattern pieces ready from yesterday.

But first let’s talk a little about the right fabric for this pattern. As you can see in the video below I am using a gorgeous woven from Backstitch Fabrics for my Brunch Blouse. This woven is custom printed and the perfect weight. For the women’s blouse I absolutely love rayon fabric and chiffons. I highly encourage you to avoid quilter cottons because they do not have the necessary drape to make the top or dress flattering….and we all want that, am I right? You can get away with good quality quilter cotton for the Bitty Brunch though.

 

Backstitch SoFlo is this sew along’s sponsor too, so one of you will be getting a $50 Gift Card to the shop shop so you can treat your to some gorgeous custom printed woven fabric. Our second winner will receive a $25 gift card to Backstitch SoFlo too.

If you picked the henley style option you will also need buttons or snaps. My recommendation for buttons or snaps is smaller size ones. The placket finished width is aprox 1/2 inch so your buttons must be smaller than this.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the Brunch Blouse/Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

 

Welcome to the Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse

Sew Along!

Day One is reserved to purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Brunch Blouse here, if you’re sewing for your little girl, the Bitty Brunch Blouse can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily blog posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

Now that you purchased the pattern(s), print the size needed. In order to do that it is very important that you take your most accurate measurements. The Brunch Blouse and Bitty Brunch Blouse are drafted for woven fabric (no stretch) so if you need to grade for multiple sizes, please do not skip this step.

You will need your waist, hips and chest measurements in order to choose the correct blouse size. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the Brunch/Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 1 (print pattern)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 2 (cut fabric)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 3 (darts and placket)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 4 (pocket/waist ties/back seam)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 5 (shoulder/side seams)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 6 (neckband)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 7 (finish sleeves/hem)

Brunch Blouse|Bitty Brunch Blouse SAL day 8 (winners announcement)

5 tips for adding neckbands

So you spent an hour picking the perfect fabric, perfect coordinates and matching thread. You’ve sewn your favorite P4P shirt and you only have one step left…the dreaded neckband. That’s when you start panicking and getting nervous about attaching the neckband and finishing your outfit. Fear no more!

Today on the blog I will give you 5 tips that will help you achieve that perfect neckband you are striving for all the time.

1. Choose the right fabric for your neckband!

Neckbands will be stretched when you attach them, they will be stretched when you put on or take off the shirt, so it is very important that fabric you use for the neckband has great stretch and great recovery. My favorite type of materials for neckbands are cotton spandex, rayon spandex, ribbing and rib knit. You can get away with using some brushed poly as long as the recovery is good. Avoid, scuba, french terry and 2 way poly blends.

 

2. Always cut the neckband cross-grain!

Never cut your neckbands along the grain. Even if your fabric has 4 way stretch (which it should) the vertical stretch is not going to be as much as the horizontal one. If you don’t have enough of the main fabric to cut the neckband is best to use a coordinating fabric than cutting the neckband along the grain.

 

3. Mark the quarters of your neckband and neck opening!

It’s very important that you find and pin (or clip) the quarter points of the neckband and neck opening. After you have sewn the neckband RTS at the ends so you have a loop, fold it length wise and mark where the seam is. This will be the back of your neck band.  The center front of the neckband will be on the opposite side. Now fold it in half bringing the center front and back markings together. The fold will mark your two quarters.

To find the front and back  neck opening centers, bring the shoulder seams wrong side together. Where centers will be where the folds are. Mark them with a pin, a clip or a small snip. With the fabric still laying flat, bring the center front and back together. Your quarter marks will be at the folds. Mark them as well. You will see that the side neck opening quarter marks are NOT at the shoulder seam. The front opening is larger than the back opening.

For all you visual learners, here is a video of the process.

 

 

4. Use the right stitches!

Avoid using a straight stitch when attaching the neckband. As I mentioned earlier, the neckband will be stretched and pulled so you want to make sure the stitches are up to the job. If you are using only your sewing machine, attach the neckband with either a stretch stitch or a narrow zig zag stitch. I prefer to use my serger for this step but it is not mandatory. Once you attached the neckband, press the seam allowance towards the shirt. You will now be top stitching it down with your coverstitch machine or your sewing machine. You can top stitch with a wide zig zag stitch, a stretch stitch or twin needles. Be sure to check out our Twin Needles tips and tricks blog too.

You can see how I attached the neckbands here:

 

5. Press, press, and steam some more!

If you’ve followed the tips I gave you and notice a slight waviness, don’t panic. It’s normal when sewing knits especially if they are on the bias (as is part of the neck opening). Go back to your ironing board and give the neckline a good hefty steam press. Most of the times my neckbands are cotton spandex based and I crank up my ironing machine all the way to the “linen” setting. Make sure you test the heat of your iron on a scrap fabric first. If your shirt is poly based you will need a lower ironing temperature, you do not want to melt your fabric 🙂

There you have it! 5 easy to follow steps to achieve a perfect neckband all the time!

Happy sewing, pirates!

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