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Lumberjack Shirt :: Sleeve Hack

December 12, 2015

Sometimes, I want/need to make a new dress shirt for my kiddo but I want to make it as quickly as I can.  The collar and button plackets take enough time as-is, so the only thing I can truly eliminate (and save time on) is the cuffs.  Most of the time, Louis is pushing and rolling his sleeves up anyway, so I thought maybe I could cut some corners and give him a shirt with the rolled up sleeve look.  It’s cool and casual, but still has a “dressy” appeal to it.  I love the entire look and idea of it.

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First, you will need to get your hands on the Lumberjack Shirt pattern.  If you don’t own this yet and you have a little person in your life, you should probably get on that.  The Lumberjack is great in that it can be made lined, with a hood, and be this super awesome fall/spring jacket.  Or you can make it unlined and with a collar and have yourself a custom-fit buttondown shirt.  I’ve done both versions plenty of times now.

To achieve the faux rolled sleeve, it’s just a few easy steps.  Promise.

After cutting out all of your pieces (you won’t need the cuff or placket!), per the pattern’s instructions lay out your sleeve pieces and take two inches off of the bottom edge.  Why?  Because when you roll the sleeves, it is tighter at the bottom and it might be too snug.  Even with those little arms that are fitting into the top.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-013

Sew the shirt as you the instructions direct you.  When you get to the cuff/sleeve part, all you’ll need to do to finish the sleeves themselves is a simple three step process.

#1: Finish the edge.  Serge it or do a small rolled hem.  Anything to keep the edge from fraying, as it will not be fully enclosed.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-014

#2: Turn the edge up 1/4″ and press.

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#3: Turn the edge up 2″, but do not press.  You want this to allow the “rolled up” look of the sleeve.  Once rolled, hand tack the sleeve in two places (I chose the arm seam and directly opposite of it).  The tacking will help the sleeve stay in place but still allow for the look to be pulled off.

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Finish the rest of the shirt as instructed.  And then sit back and enjoy the new beauty you just created.

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I adore how the simple change of sleeves moves from a more formal shirt to something more casual.  It’s such a fun look for a little dude, especially one who is singing in a Christmas concert at his school.

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Followed one of the hacks shared on this site?  Or maybe you came up with something of your own?  We are DYING to know!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

And while you’re at it, make sure to pick up your very own copy of the Lumberjack Shirt.  Happy sewing!

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks Leave a Comment

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not.  The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy.  Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works.  But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit.  The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form.  Heaven, right?

p4p-palazzo-hack-tutorial

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos.  Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants.  Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing.  It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric.  Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement.  Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

P4P Palazzo Hack-006

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy.  And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever!  Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″?  The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around.  Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs.  Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

P4P Palazzo Hack-003

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge.  Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam.  Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

P4P Palazzo Hack-004 P4P Palazzo Hack-005

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

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Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece.  I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie.  I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

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Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube.  I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

IMG_6106IMG_6107Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

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For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease.  Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants.  I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted.  (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

IMG_6099IMG_6100IMG_6098Next, I marked my buttonholes.  I did about 1/2″ from the center for each.  I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

IMG_6103IMG_6101You will need to use a knit button hole.  Here is what mine looks like on my machine.  The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

IMG_6102IMG_6104Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs.  The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants.  After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband.  I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

IMG_6105IMG_6112Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

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Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉  I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go.  The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things.  Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

IMG_2002 copy

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

pocket1pocket2Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

pocket3lined pocket

Unlined Pocket                                                                                                 Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket:  Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

pocket4

Stitch Pocket on front leg.  Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

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There you have it!  Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs.  Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams.  (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks?  Or came up with something of your own?  We are DYING to see it!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks 4 Comments

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