Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Minute Maillot SAL – day 2 (cut fabric and gather supplies)

Welcome to day 2 of our Minute Maillot sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. To make the MM you will need swim fabric, lining, swim elastic and optionally power mesh or swim cups.

Judy made this very in depth video about various swim fabric, notions and how to accurately take your measurements to create the perfect custom swim suit. I highly encourage you to watch it:

For my Minute Maillot I decided to go with a gorgeous nylon swim I got from Boho Fabrics. I will be making the low back, mid front, high leg option with a bust lining. I am using solid black swim, also from Boho, for lining and cotton swim elastic for the arms, legs and neckline.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the SOS SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

Minute Maillot SAL – day 1 (print and cut pattern)

Welcome to the Minute Maillot

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Minute Maillot here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth MM can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

This sew along is sponsored by Boho Fabrics. Emily has graciously offered our pirates and mermaids a discount. Code MAILLOT20 (valid until July 14th) will save you 20% off swim fabrics, notions and mesh in case they needed other supplies for the perfect suit 😊 (Happy hour bundles are excluded from the sale code since they are already discounted )

Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size(s). Patterns for Pirates drafts for 5’5″ height for the Women pattern so do not forget to adjust for height too. For swimwear, especially one piece swim suites like the Minute Maillot it’s important to measure your trunk as well. Measure inside shoulder, across your bust, down through your legs, over the booty and back up and over the shoulder.

P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for bust/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

The Basics of Sewing Swim blog post has a lot of useful information, especially if you’re making swimwear for the first time.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the SOS knit pants SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

 

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

SOS sal day 7 (winner announcements)

Amazing job these past 7 days! We were in awww of the beautiful creations we’ve seen and once again you have not made our job easy.

Without further ado….the first prize winner is:

Cathryn Larkin!

Congratulations, Cathryn!  You won a $20 Patterns for Pirates gift card and a $75 Kammie Lou Lou retail fabrics store credit.

As always we have a second winner too:

Leah Bashover-Nichols

Leah , congratulations! You won a Made for Mermaids $20 store credit to treat yourself to some new patterns.

A big thank you to the SOS knit pants sew along sponsor, Kammie Lou Lou Custom Fabrics who also provided this beautiful brushstrokes athletic knit I used for my skinny pants.

Stay tuned for the mermaids’ June sew along announcement.

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 6 (waistband)

Woo hoo! We made it to the last sewing day. Today we are adding the waistband and bragging 😉 The SOS knit pants feature a mid rise (they will hit just under the belly button) with an elastic enclosed waistband. My main tip for today is to try the elastic on once you sew the loop. Not all elastics are the same, some will stretch more some will stretch less. When possible it’s always advisable to try the elastic to make sure you love the fit before you add the waistband.

If you are a fan of the Peg Legs contour waistband you can certainly replace the waistband with the contour one. I talk about how here, in the hacks blog.

Be sure to watch Day 6’s video below and post your finished SOS pants  (modeled or not) in the comments of the day 6 photo of this sew along’s album. Reminder, only photos posted in the comments of DAY 6 photo will qualify for the prize. You are most definitely welcome to share on the wall as well (the SAL group and P4P group). Good luck!

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 5 (leg inseam, side seam, hem)

Ahoy, matey! Today our project will start to take the shape of pants 😉 Whether you have opted for the skinny, straight, youth or adult option, you will be sewing the inseam and the side seam. The video below shows you how my preferred technique. I like to pin the front to the back at the inseam, the side seams and lastly sew them.

The pattern follows a 1/2″ seam allowance so if you are using your serger, remember to remove 1/4″ with the serger blade.

Hem the bottom of each leg by folding 1″ and stitching it with a STRETCH stitch. It is very important that you do use either a zig zag, a triple stretch or a coverstitch when sewing the hem. There will be tension and stretching applied to it when putting the SOS knit pants on and wearing them so a straight stitch may pop.

Take a look over the Day 5 video below and when you complete your step, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 5 photo of the SOS sew along album.

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 4 (front pocket, inseam)

Good morning mermaids and pirates! Today, on day 4, we will be sewing the front pockets and the front seam. Let’s start with the pockets! The SOS knit pants feature slat pockets with an French seam. As I mentioned in the previous video, I strongly encourage you to use a thinner knit fabric for the pocket lining. This will reduce the bulk considerably.

If you have opted for the MOTO HACK  (free hack and pattern on the blog) today is the day when you will be sewing the pin tucks and putting together the front legs. 

Once you added your pocket, all you have left to do today is sew the front crotch seam and make sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of DAY 4 photo of the SOS sal album.

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 3 ( back pockets, yoke, inseam)

Today we start sewing! Day 3 is reserved to attaching the back pocket, the back yokes and sewing the back seam.

Let’s start with the back pocket (s). You can add two or just one, it’s all a matter of preference. The main thing I want to mention regarding the back pocket is the importance of BASTING it in place before you stitch it down. As Judy mentions in the tutorial, the back pocket can make or break the look of the pants. So do use the suggested pocket placement but just baste them in place and only after trying the pants on sew them down.

Once you add the pocket(s), it’s time to add the back yoke. This is where you will see how important having cut the notches yesterday really is 🙂 Be sure to match the notches and attach the yoke with a 1/2″ seam allowance and top stitch.

Below is a link to the Day 3 sew along video which includes the back pocket, yoke and inseam construction. Once you complete today’s steps, be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of the SOS knit pants sew along album.

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 2 (cut fabric)

 

Welcome to day 2 of our SOS knit pants sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. You should have your pattern pieces ready from yesterday. If you haven’t removed the top part of the pocket on the front pieces, now is the time to do it.

But first let’s talk a little about the right fabric for the SOS pants. As you can see in the video below I am using a gorgeous athletic knit from Kammie Lou Lou for my SOS skinny pants. This poly base knit is custom printed and the perfect medium weight. For the straight leg I absolutely love French Terry or Baby French Terry for a casual/sporty feel and ponte for a more elegant look. I highly encourage you to avoid thinner knits like double brushed poly, low weight cotton spandex or bamboo spandex.

Kammie Lou Lou is this sew along’s sponsor too, so one of you will be getting a $75 Gift Card to the retail shop so you can treat your to some gorgeous custom printed fabric.

You will also need 1″ or 1.25″ elastic for the waistband. Not all elastic is the same, so keep that in mind when you choose knit elastic vs no roll elastic.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the SOS SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

 

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

SOS sal day 1 (print and cut pattern)

Welcome to the SOS knit pants

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the SOS Knit Pants here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth SOS pants can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

The SOS Sew Along is sponsored by Kammie Lou Lou fabrics and Stacy has graciously offered our pirates and mermaids 10% off retail with code “Sal10″.

Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size (s). Patterns for Pirates drafts for 5’5″ height for the Women pattern so do not forget to adjust for height too. Make sure to check your inseam against the finish inseam of the style pants you chose. I am 5’5″ BUT my crotch to ankle inseam  is 28″ so I have to remove 2″ from the skinny pants since the finished inseam is 30”.

You will need your waist, hips and calf measurements in order to choose the correct pants. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

We always recommend making a muslin with the same type of fabric you plan to use for your “real” pair to make sure you get the perfect fit. Judy put together a great P4P University Blog that talks about pants and their wrinkles. You can read in there about some easy fixes for common problems.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the SOS knit pants SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

P4P University- Pants and Their Wrinkles

We get a lot of questions about fitting, wrinkles and pull lines and how to fix those when sewing for different body types.  Pants seem to cause a lot of anxiety for some sewists when it comes to the crotch area and the lines they can see there, but it isn’t too complicated as it seems.

First, lets talk about wrinkles and pull lines in general.  You will never have a garment that will never have any in any position.  Meaning a garment is drafted and fitted to look great in one main position (usually standing up straight with feet slightly apart for pants).  So, if you’re only getting wrinkles or pull lines when moving a certain way don’t worry! A garment can’t be perfectly drafted and fitted to every movement you’re going to be in.  I often see that sewists are worried about this though… “I have wrinkles when I sit” is a very common plea for help… but the truth is you should! You need that extra length when you’re standing and it will wrinkle or bunch when you’re not using that length when sitting.

 

But, if you’re fitting pants and you’re having wrinkles or pull lines when just standing straight then you’ll want to alter the pattern for a better fit.  Lets go over some wrinkles and pull lines and what you would need to do to fix them.  I have the issue on the left, followed by how you would alter the pattern in the middle, and to the right what your new pattern piece will look like against the old one (old pattern in pink and new altered in black).

When you have wrinkles this indicates that you have too much fabric somewhere and it is bunching up.  Pinching out the excess will show you exactly where the extra fabric is coming from usually and if it is horizontal, vertical, or both that needs to be taken out.

When you have pull lines this indicates that there is not enough fabric somewhere and it is straining.  If you’re unsure you can unpick to let the tension out and see if the lines go away.  The gap that your seam spreads would be the amount your pattern needs to not strain.  You can unpick along the side seam to check for horizontal pulling or along the top waistband for vertical.  You might need both as well if you’re getting bias pulling.

The same goes for booty with wrinkling vs pull lines and vertical vs horiztonal.   But, I wanted to touch on a common fit issue I see asked about, which is pulling under the bum.  This is generally when your booty is a bit lower then the pant is drafted for.  Lowering the booty curve will help elevate that straining and pull lines.

 

Pants aren’t all that scary 🙂 Once you learn the basics you can alter the pattern for your perfect fit easily!  Good luck!

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