Guess what day it is?! PATTERN RELEASE DAY, y’all!! It’s always so much fun when we get to launch patterns that we’ve been working hard on behind the scenes. The All Buttoned Up patterns (in both adult and youth sizes) are S.O. G.O.O.D. — we think you’re going to just love them so much!
The All Buttoned Up is a staple in every wardrobe. Nothing beats having a great cardigan to throw on when you’re chilly, and this one happens to be incredibly versatile!
You can wear it buttoned up as a shirt or dress or over another layer as an open cardigan. It’s slim enough to wear another layer over comfortably for even colder times. The multiple sleeve lengths and top lengths give this pattern year round usage. The V-neckline and crew neckline mean you can create the perfect pairings for any layers you need it to match. Fitted enough to look sleek, but still has room to grow and stay in their closet for great usage. Casual enough to wear buttoned up with jeans or dressed up over a nice dress.
This one cardigan pattern will you give you miles of usage over the seasons and years with it’s timeless look and options.
The All Buttoned Up is drafted for a high stretch fabric like sweater knits, double brushed poly, spandex rib knits, and the like. Options include: crop, shirt, tunic, and knee lengths; short, 3/4, long hemmed and long with cuff sleeve lengths, v-neckline and crew necklines. The adult pattern features a back seaming (meaning you don’t have to worry about any pooling around your lower back waist) and it also has an additional lower scoop neckline.
*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.
The options include:
- Multiple lengths: Crop / Shirt / Tunic / Knee
- Multiple Sleeve lengths: Short / 3/4 / Long Hemmed / Long Cuffed
- Multiple Necklines: Crew / Vneck (with an additional Scoop option for the adult sizes)
- The adult pattern features a back seam on the bodice, with a built-in sway back adjustment
Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!
What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the All Buttoned Up patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, September 17, 2021.
Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!
But wait! There’s more! Before you go, take a look at all of the Easy Hacks that our team put together, to help take your patterns a little further!
Grab those buttons and snaps…the All Buttoned Up pattern is here!! What a beautiful staple for year round sewing. We am so excited to bring you two easy hacks for the All Buttoned Up pattern that will give you even more options. First off, the gorgeous Dana is showing how to achieve the – ohh so popular – lettuce hem look. In the second half of the blog, our talented Rachel is creating separates with the ABU pattern. Yes!
LETTUCE HEM HACK
If you are looking to give a cute and flirty finish to your new cardigan, a lettuce hem is a great way to go. It’s quick and easy and looks fantastic. Here’s how to do it!
First you will want to remove your hem allowance. Shorten the bottom edge of your bodice piece by 1”, and the bottom edge of your sleeves by ½”. Cut out the rest of your pieces as normal.
Then continue with the tutorial instructions until you reach the part where you are told to memory press the hems. We don’t have hems so instead you will sew the bottom half of the side seams together. This will enable you to hem the whole of the bottom edge in one go. (You can’t sew the whole of the side seam, otherwise you will have to hem your sleeves in the round, which is a little tricky with a rolled hem).
Next we will change our overlocker/serger onto its settings for a 3 thread, narrow rolled hem. You will need to remove your left needle and then change your tensions, stitch length, width and differential feed. Your manual will show you how to do this. This is the page from my manual for reference but different machines will have slightly different settings.
The only difference between a lettuce hem and a regular narrow rolled hem is to decrease the differential feed down as far as it goes, and to gently pull the fabric to stretch it as you feed it into the presser foot. Both of these actions will stretch the fabric as it is sewn, and helps give the wobbly lettuce edge.
You can also slow the fabric as it comes out of the back of the feed dogs, and gently stretch the hem once it is sewn, as this increases the ruffled look.
Then, once you have perfected your narrow rolled hem on scrap fabric you can hem both sleeves and the bottom edge of the cardigan.
Reset your machine to its previous settings and finish sewing the side seams, from the hem edge of the sleeve up to the underarm, and down to join the top of the previous side seam stitching. Weave in your tails, or trim and finish with fray stop.
Construct the rest of your garment as per the pattern tutorial.
You’re done! Enjoy your fun new cardigan.
Versatility is a requirement in my wardrobe so I always put my patterns to work for me. As soon as I saw the All Buttoned Up Cardigan, I knew I wanted to create separates, too!
For this make, I worked up a cropped cardigan and a pencil skirt, with the crew neck and self-facing placket options. You can follow the same method for the v-neck with banded placket.
Start with the dress length cardigan and cut the full length piece in half at the “Crop” length line. You will now have your cardigan and skirt pieces separated.
Construct your cardigan per the pattern directions.
Assemble your skirt by stitching together at the back and sides.
Cut fusible interfacing strips that are 1.5” wide by the length of your skirt. Iron on the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, aligning with the front edges of your skirt. Just as you did with the cardigan, press the front edge ¾” towards the inside and press.
Cut your waistband 5” tall by the length of the top of your skirt, minus ½”. For example, the top of my skirt is 31” wide so I cut my band 30.5” long.
From here you have 2 options. If your fabric has great stretch and recovery, you can cut 2 strips of interfacing ¾” wide by 5” tall. Fuse them to your fabric ½” from the edge.
If your fabric has poor recovery, you will want to cut a piece of 2” elastic to sew into your band. No interfacing is required because your elastic will provide stability to your waistband.
Assemble your waistband using the same instructions that you completed for the neckband.
Stitch your waistband to the top of your skirt, ¾” away from the front edge of your skirt.
Complete your skirt placket, buttons, and hem using same instructions for the cardigan.
Wear your pieces together for a coordinated look or separately with jeans or a sweater… your options are unlimited!
We hope you enjoyed these simple modifications to the All Buttoned Up pattern. Don’t forget to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group and on Instagram so we can all admire them!
Hello, friends! Thank you so much for joining me last week. We absolutely loved seeing your Rainbow dress creations. Without further ado…
A big THANK YOU to our sew along sponsor. Make sure you check out Hissy Fit Fabrics on Facebook to keep up to date with their sales and preorders.
Thank you for joining us this week and make sure you share your gorgeous creations in the P4P Facebook group and Instagram. Stay tuned in the Sew Along group for the mermaids’ next sal announcement.
Wooohoo! You did it! Last sew along day is here and all we have to do is add sew then skirt to the bodice and hem it. Easy peasy!
Mark the center of the front and back bodice with a pin or a clip. The skirt pattern has notches to show its center. Pin the skirt to the bodice, right sides together, matching the center marks and the side seams. Sew with the serger or a stretch stitch. Optionally you can top stitch the seam allowance up.
Lastly, hem the bottom of the skirt by folding 1” and PRESSING! Do not skip steam pressing before you sew…and after. You sew the hem using your sewing machine’s twin needles option or your coverstitch as I have. Before you start, take a look over our Hemming blog because we have a few tips for easy and successful hemming. If you are finishing the bottom hem using twin needles, a good refresher blog is the P4P University Twin Needles Tips.
Last Rainbow dress SAL video is below. Once you complete your project, post a picture of your finished dress in the comments of day 6 photo of the sew along album. That’s where the team will pick the two winners. I will announce them on the blog on Tuesday.
Ahoy, matey! We are almost there! Today we finish the bodice by adding the sleeves.
The Rainbow Dress includes 2 style sleeves, a fitted style and a gathered one. Both available in short, 3/4 and long length. The fitted sleeves are finished with a hem. The gathered sleeves are banded.
I opted for the gathered style, so you can see this option in today’s video. Start by sewing two rows of stitches, one about 1/4” and one 3/8” away from the raw edge, in between the two notches. Use the longest stitch length your machine allows. Do not backstitch! Leave long tails at the beginning and end of each row. Pull on then tails to gather the sleeve, matching the 3 notches on the arm curve with the ones on the bodice (front, shoulder seam, back). Pin in place and stitch.
Sew each of the arm bands, right sides together at the short ends to create a loop. Gather the bottom of the sleeves to match then arm bands. All you have left to do is sew the bands to the sleeves, right sides together, and press.
Here is day 5 video. Once you finish the bodice, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 5 photo in the sew along album. See you back here tomorrow for the final steps!
Welcome to the fourth day! Today we start working on the bodice, pretty quick sewing day.
Let’s start by placing the bodice front and back, right sides together, aligning the shoulder edge. If your fabric is on the stretchier/heavier side, you can add clear elastic into the seam. Just remember to keep the seam allowance 1/2”, even if the clear elastic is narrower than that. Sew the shoulder seam with the serger or a stretch stitch on your sewing machine.
Whether you chose the high or the low scoop neckline(adult pattern only), take a look over our P4P University Neckbands 101 before you attach then neckband.
Top stitching then neckband is optional. However, if you to decide to top stitch the collar style, I strongly recommend using a triple stretch stitch or a lightning bolt stitch for this step.
In the video below I show you how to sew the shoulder seam and add the neckband using a serger. When you finish these steps be sure to post a picture of your progress in the comments of the Day 4 photo (album is in the M4M & P4P Sew along group). See you back here tomorrow!
Welcome to day 3 of our Rainbow dress sew along!
Today we create the collar and baste it to the front bodice. You will notice that the collar lining pieces are slightly smaller than the main lining. That is intentional, it will help the collar lay nice and flat once sewn. The Rainbow dress collar can be woven or knit. I strongly encourage you to interface at least the lining piece with a woven interfacing, such as Pellon SF101.
I have decided to add a little extra detail to my Rainbow dress collar so you will see how I incorporate piping in this project. I prefer store bought piping because it saves me the effort and time, but you can certainly make your own. To create your piping from scratch, simply cut strips of woven fabric that are 1.25″ wide on the bias. Press the strip lengthwise wrong sides together. Lay your cord in the crease and stitch with a long straight stitch as close to the cord as possible. OR….go to Joann or Walmart and grab some pre made piping 😉
Pin the piping to the outer curve of the main collar pieces, aligning the raw edges. Start about 1/2″ lower than the top and finish about 1/2″ from the end, veering your piping. This detail will ensure that there is no extra bulk in the shoulder seam or neckline. Baste it in place. I show you this step in the day 3 video.
Tip: use a zipper foot when working with piping!
Now that the piping is added, place your lining piece over the main, right sides together. Ease the collar pieces as show in Judy’s video below and stitch.
Turn the two collar pieces right side out and give them a good steam press! Optionally, you can top stitch the outer edge. If you added piping, use the zipper foot when top stitching.
The final step for today is to baste your collar to the front bodice. Align the raw edges of the collar with the neckline and shoulder seam. Remember that for the adult Rainbow dress this option is only available for the high neckline.
You can see how I created the collar in the day 3 video below. Once you complete these steps, add your check in photo in the comments of day 3 pic. You can find the check in album on FB, in our sew along group.
Welcome to the second day of our Rainbow dress Sew Along! Today we create the skirt by sewing the colorblock pieces and adding the the optional pockets. But let’s be honest here, who would skip the pockets? 😉
I love to lay the pieces in order (1 to 5) on the table, right side up to make sure I don’t mix them up. Place piece 5 over piece 4 and sew along the edge. I like to use my serger for this step (just remember the seam allowance is 1/2″!) however, you can sew the colorbloking part with a straight stitch. That part of the skirt will not be stretched when worn.
Top stitching the seams is optional, however, encouraged. I don’t like the feel of the seam allowance against my skin so I always top stitch it down. You can do this with your coverstitch, twin needles or just a simple straight stitch.
It’s pockets time! Using the marking on the pattern, place your pocket pieces on the skirt, right sides together. Sew this step with your sewing machine! I show you in today’s video how to alternate between the sewing machine and serger when you add pockets to the skirt.
You can see how I create my skirt in the video below. Once you complete today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 2 photo. You can find the Rainbow dress SAL album in the M4M/P4P sew along group on Facebook.