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Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 7

March 30, 2021

Thank you all for joining me last week for the Vintage Jumper Sew Along. I loved seeing all the beautiful jumpers being created. I know you have been waiting for this post so I won’t keep you in suspense any longer. 

Our sew along winner is: Brianna Lynn! Brianna sewed not one, not two but THREE Vintage jumpers for her beautiful little one. What an outstanding job! Brianna won a $20 gift certificate to Patterns for Pirates and a $50 gift card to The Styled Magnolia Custom Fabrics.


We have a runner up winner to announce too. Congratulations, Darci Friberg! Darci will receive a $20 gift card from Made for Mermaids. 


Huge THANK YOU to our Sew Along sponsor for not only providing the prize but also the fabric I used for my own Vintage Jumper.


As I pass the baton to Colleen from M4M, I wanted to remind you about the Spring Sale and Capsule Contest going on right now on both the P4P and the M4M sites. See you back for our next sew along in May!

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 6

March 27, 2021

Good morning, pirates! We made it to the last day of our Vintage Jumper sew along. Today we put the finishing touches on the jumper by adding the 3 buttons and buttonholes as well as hemming the skirt/pants. 

I start with the side button. If your machine came with the buttonhole foot attachment, grab it now. If not, you can manually make the buttonhole by marking the location and stitching a rectangle (the size of your button) with a tight zig zag stitch (also known as satin stitch). If you’re new to sewing buttons, check out our P4P University Buttons and Buttonholes blog, where I show you various techniques. 

If you did not try on the jumper yesterday, do that now and mark where you would like the straps to be for best fit. Check out the Vintage Jumper Hacks blog where you will find a great alternative to the bib buttons. Rachel shows you (with a video too!!) how to add overall buckles instead!

Last step of the day is to hem the skirt or the pants. Ohh, and remember to give your finish garment a good press!


Check out today’s video below! Once you complete your project, add a picture of your jumper to the comments of day 6 photo of the sew along album. This is where the P4P team will look to select the winners for the sew along. I do encourage you to share your Vintage Jumper in the main group too so we can all admire it. 

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 5

March 26, 2021

Hurray! Day 5 is here! By the end of today you will have a jumper, albeit without buttons and hems but a jumper nonetheless. Today we add the waistband that will be attached to the skirt/pants and bib/straps. 

Start by interfacing the waistband main and lining with knit interfacing. If you did not add the notches when you cut the fabric, do your markings now! Don’t skip these steps, the markings will be very helpful when you sew up the waistband. Below you can see how Judy creates the youth one. Check it out!

In today’s video I show you how I add the adult waistband to my skirt jumper. My favorite part is that the band has no exposed edges! Everything is enclosed so it makes for more sensory friendly garment. When attaching the straps to the back waistband, make sure that the “pointy” side faces out. This will ensure that the straps will lay flat on the back.

After you finish today’s steps, try the jumper on. Check if you like the back pocket placement and where you will want the buttons on the straps. That’s the beauty of sewing for yourself! You get to customize it to your figure. Don’t forget to check in with your progress photo in the comments of day 5 thread in the Sew Along group on Facebook. See you back here tomorrow to finish up the Vintage Jumper!

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: General Sewing, How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 4

March 25, 2021

Good morning, pirates! Today we start working on the top part of the jumper. It features a cute bib and straps that attach to the waistband and bib. 

The bib is lined and it has a fun color-blocked pocket. While the pocket is optional, I wouldn’t skip it. If you are making the youth Jumper you can add a cute embroidery, a monogram a heat transfer vinyl graphic, you name it! Another way to add a little something extra to the pocket is to do some decorative top stitching. So much opportunity for embellishments!

The pocket itself is not lined, however, I did decide to line mine because the fabric was thin enough. If you are using a heavier, thicker woven, don’t line it or use a thin fabric for the back. You can see how I did it in the video below.  

When creating the two long straps, don’t forget to as some tricot interfacing to both the main and the lining. Sew each strap lining and main, right sides together along the 3 straight edges, not the slanted one with the notch. Using your favorite turning tool, turn your straps right side out, press and top stitch. That’s it! You have completed the steps for day 4. All you have to do now is add your check in photo to the sew along album on Facebook.

See you tomorrow! 

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: General Sewing, How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 3

March 24, 2021

Ahoy, pirates! Day 3 is reserved for sewing the side seams. Once side will be sewn “normally”, on the other we will add a zipper. When sewing the side with no zipper, remember to place your fabrics right sides together and stitch with your sewing machine. You can finish the raw edge after with a serger stitch, a zig zag or an overlock stitch. 

I know a lot of sewists may be “scared” of zippers but trust me, they are not as frightening as they seam. Judy is showing you in the videos below, her two favorite methods for adding the little side zipper. Think about it this way, it’s just 7 inches of zipper…how scary can that be? 😉

Day 3 video is posted below. Once you finish today’s steps, grab a picture of your “almost” finished pants or skirt and add it to the Day 3 photo comments in the Vintage Jumper Sew Along album. You can find the album in the Facebook SAL group. 

 

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 2

March 23, 2021

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Welcome to day 2 of our Vintage Jumper Sew Along! Today we sew the darts for the shorts, capris and pants. We also add the front and back pockets as well as the pants crotch and in seam. 

When sewing the darts, remember to not back backstitch. Simply pull both threads on the wrong side of the fabric and tie them in a knot. This will reduce the bulk in the dart stitches. While I am not showing the darts in my day two video (I am making the skirt) I do recommend reading our P4P University Darts 101 if you are new to sewing this step. 

Both the pants and skirt options include a front pocket style. I recommend not skipping them, they are so adorable! I went “off the script” 😉 and added even the back pockets to my skirt. The pattern only has you adding the back pockets to the shorts, capri and long pants style. Remember to just baste your back pockets in place, try the jumper on after day 5 steps and only then sew them in place. You want to make sure you love the placement! It can make or break the look of your pants. 

If you are making the skirt option, you have completed the steps for today. If you are sewing the pants style, you still need to sew the crotch and in seam. Today’s video is below. Don’t forget to snap a picture of your completed steps and add it to the day to photo comments in the Vintage Jumper Sew Along album. 

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

Filed Under: General Sewing, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Vintage Jumper Sew Along – day 1

March 22, 2021

Welcome to the Vintage Jumper Sew Along! 

Day One of the sew along is for purchasing the pattern and cutting the fabric. If you did not buy the patterns yet, stop by the Sew Along Facebook Group to grab an exclusive coupon code. You can grab the adult Vintage Jumper here. If you plan to sew for a little one, be sure to snag the  Youth Vintage jumper or the Bundle. If you are still undecided which style to make, our Round Up blog will give you an overview of all options included, from skirts to pants lengths. You can also use the Easy Hacks blog for added options.

Now that we have the patterns it’s time to select which method of using them you would like to do. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print with a plotter or at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric. 

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. Our most recent patterns include videos as well so be sure to check them out!



Still debating which knit type will work best for your desired look? Take a look over our P4P University Knit Types blog. We also included a cheat sheet that you can print. If you are like me and sometime are just keen on using a specific print for a specific pattern, read our Different fabric, different fit blog post before you cut your fabric. This pattern is drafted for stretch woven such a stretch suede, stretch velvet or stretch denim.

I have opted for a fun Half Black Stripes Tropical Ombre stretch woven from The Styled Magnolia. TSM is this sew along’s sponsor so our winner will get to try some of their goodies too. 


 

You can see day 1 video below. Once you complete you pretty pile of cut fabric, take a picture and post it in the comments of day 1 photo. This sew along album will be in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Facebook group. 

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 1 (cut fabric)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 2 (Back darts, front & back pockets, crotch & in seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 3 (out seam)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 4 (straps, front bib)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 5 (waistband)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 6 (button holes, buttons and hem)

Vintage Jumper SAL | DAY 7 (winners announcement)

 

Filed Under: General Sewing, How to/ Sewing Tutorial, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

Be Bold Bodysuit – Easy Hacks

March 10, 2021

The much anticipated Be Bold Bodysuit has now released. I couldn’t be more thrilled to share with you some easy hacks that the P4P blog team has prepared for you. We will show you how to add a your favorite P4P skirt to the crop top and make it a custom dress. Rachel is adding a faux placket to her Be Bold Bodysuit and Shannon is making a very cropped 😉 crop option. Ohh and did I mention that you can turn the BBB into an undergarment compression bodysuit? Djem is showing you how below. 

…..

Dress 

Let’s start off this easy hacks series with my favorite of all – a dress!! Hello, beautiful! The Be Bold Bodysuit includes a crop top option which makes an excellent bodice for many of the P4P skirt patterns. 


In the mini tutorial below, Judy shows you how to add the X Factor skirt to the Be Bold crop to to create a gorgeous, comfortable square neckline dress. Print the skirt portion of the X Factor pattern and cut the fabric. Sew the side seams right sides together. 

Mark the center of the skirt front and back as well as the centers of the bodice front and back. 

Matching the marked points, pin the skirt and bodice right sides together. Serge or sew with you favorite stretch and a 1/2″ seam allowance. 


Hem the skirt and enjoy your new Be Bold dress! 


I used the same method as above to make a Be Bold – Sweetheart mash. Instead of using the X Factor, I use the Sweetheart dress, Easy peasy! My next mash will be with the Boundless dress. If you chose to to the Be Bold crop with the Boundless gathered skirt, make sure that you use the cutting chart for the natural waist skirt, NOT the empire one. 

My dress below is bamboo spandex and Judy’s baby girl’s dress above is cotton spandex. 


Just look how stunning Sylvia looks in her Be Bold thin strap option mashed with the Sweetheart dress. Her polka dots fabric is double brushed poly. Just radiant! 


…..

Faux Placket

Adding a faux placket is an easy way to gain extra mileage from your Be Bold pattern. And it couldn’t be easier!

You can add a faux placket to any of the Be Bold styles, but I chose to add mine to the tank bodysuit.

Did I say that it couldn’t be easier? Keep reading…

Cut the pattern pieces for your preferred Be Bold style.

Cut an additional rectangle, 6.5” x 1.75”.

Optional! Finish the edges on your serger, without cutting off any of the seam allowance. It adds a bit of stability to your placket.

Fold the bottom and side edges in ¼” towards the wrong side and press into place.

Pin your placket piece to the center line of your bodice, aligning raw edges at the top of the placket and neckline. At this point, I like to use hem tape to secure the placket into place.

Edgestitch into place. Fun tip! Use your blind hem foot to help keep your topstitching super-straight!

Assemble the rest of the garment per the pattern instructions.

Add your buttons once your garment is complete so they don’t get in the way of your construction.

I mentioned it was simple, right?? Enjoy the newest addition to your spring wardrobe!

…..

Compression undergarment

Love the Be Bold Bodysuit, but want a little tummy control? No problem. It’s all about fabric choice. You’ll want to use a heavy athletic knit with a high spandex content, like supplex or compression tricot. In my navy bodysuit below, I used supplex for the main fabric and lined the front and back bodysuit with power mesh. I treated the supplex and power mesh as one layer and followed the tutorial as written. However, if you are looking for something compressive, that can be worn as an undergarment, you’ll want something a little more like the black bodysuit on the right.


 

For the black bodysuit, I used tricot for the main fabric and power mesh for the lining. The only adjustments were made to the front bodice pattern piece.

 

  1. Mark 1.5″ down from the armpit of the front pattern piece.
  2. Using the bottom curve of the Front Shelf Bra as a guide, create a line.

 

3.  Measure from your side seam to where you feel the start of your bra cup. Mine is about 3″, mark this measurement on your pattern.

4. From the top of the shoulder seam, mark 2.5″ down. Connect the lines as illustrated above.

5. Using a french curve ruler or whatever you have around (I used a drinking glass), create a curve connecting the shoulder seam line and the underbust line.

6.  Cut out that section, and you now have your new front pattern piece! Using this piece, cut out your main fabric and lining on the fold.

7. Follow the construction of the tutorial as written, treating the deep plunge as a normal neckline. You will want to use a 1:1 ratio for the picot, while slightly stretching along the curve.

…..

Very crop top

This very cropped cami and top are super comfortable and perfect to wear under low-cut tops and for loungewear. I will be living in these and the best part is they are so quick and easy to make. Here are the two tutorials for creating the crop. The first shows the tutorial using the thin strap option and the second is the tank option.

Very Crop Cami Using the Thin Strap Option:

  1. Take your lining pieces for your pattern. Simply cut 2 fronts and 2 backs following the thin strap tank lines to create a cropped cami with lining. 
  2. Sew the top together using the thin strap tank directions from the tutorial. 
  3. Once you have sewn the side seams, baste the main and lining pieces together along the bottom edge. Treat these two as one while you attach the picot as directed in the pattern.  

This cropped cami is great for pairing with low cut tops for some extra coverage. I made this option in white cotton jersey, lined with the same fabric and used bra strap elastic in place of fabric straps. (paired here with RTW Jeans and Top).

Very Cropped Top Using the Tank Option

  1. Take both your front and back bodice pieces and lay the front and back shelf bra liner pieces on top, lining up the shoulders. 
  2. Draw a line on your front and back main bodice pieces along the bottom of the shelf bra piece. 
  3. Cut your main bodice pattern pieces on this line and use this for your new pattern.
  4. Cut your main fabric for the very crop tank top using your new pieces and cut your lining from the shelf bra lining pieces. Follow the tutorial for sewing the tank top. Once you have the neckline, arms, and side seams sewn, baste the lining and main fabric together along the bottom edge. You will now treat the two fabrics as one piece. Last, apply picot elastic according to the tutorial for the shelf bra.  That’s it.

This very cropped top is great to wear in place of a bra or sewn up in athletic fabric to match with your favorite workout wear. This is not supportive enough to be a sports bra, but very comfortable for lounging, a sleep bra, or paired with your own bra as a very cropped top.

 

I hope you will get to give these easy hacks a try. Which one will you do first? Don’t forget to share them in the P4P Facebook group and on Instagram so we can admire your work too! 

Filed Under: General Sewing, Pattern Hacks, Pattern Release, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

P4P University – Sewing Curves

March 9, 2021

Knowing how to properly sew curves makes a huge difference in giving your garments a more professional finish! There are different techniques, whether you are sewing a convex or concave curve… think neckline versus bust. At the core, the key is all about eliminating bulk and resistance so your curves can lay as designed.

Clip The Seams

The first technique works for curves, like necklines, that require the fabric to spread in an array. It’s simple!

Once you have your pattern pieces stitched together, clip into the seam allowance every half inch or so. Take good care not to snip through your seam!

You’ll notice that the fabric relaxes because the tension in the curve is gone!

To demonstrate, I’ve added a facing to the neckline of the Brunch Blouse. After stitching together and clipping my seams, I turned the facing to the inside of the shirt and gave it a good pressing.

Look at that result!

Grab Those Pinking Shears

Pinking shears can pretty much do it all… they can reduce bulk and relieve tension in your curves. Even more, they stop fabric from fraying!

To demonstrate, I’ve stitched up the front bodice of the So Classic Sundress. This gorgeous pattern features princess seams. You definitely want to reduce the bulk in those princess seams that run right along the front of your bust!

After stitching my pieces together, I trimmed the seam allowance with pinking shears and pressed the seam open.

Here’s the result!

Your Serger is Magic

Once I learned how to gather on my serger, I wanted all the ruffles! It turns out that you can also make small adjustments that will help you to achieve the perfect curved hem on knits.

All you need to know… turn up that differential dial! You’ll want to test on a few scraps to determine how much to adjust the dial.

In this instance, tension is your friend! You want to create slight tension along the raw edge of your hem. That will cause the hem to naturally turn inward and help you to maintain that beautiful curved edge without fighting fabric folds. All you have to do is pin and stitch!

My fabric was a heavier knit so I adjust the differential feed all the way up. A lighter knit wouldn’t require the same adjustment.

Again, once I learned this trick, it changed my relationship with curves! I love it.

I hope you find these techniques helpful! Please drop questions in the comments below and join us in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group.

Happy sewing!

Filed Under: General Sewing, P4P University, Uncategorized, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

P4P University – Understitching and Topstitching

February 23, 2021

Hi Pirates! Today we’re going to take a look at understitching and topstitching to find out how to use them while making your favorite woven patterns. The written instructions are below or you can scroll to the bottom of the page to find the video tutorial.

P4P University Understitching and Topstitching

What is Understitching?

Understitching is the technique that is used to keep facings or linings from rolling out towards the front of your garment during wear. It provides you with the ability to keep any of the facing or lining from being visible while also giving you a nice, finished and crisp edge without any stitching showing.

How to Understitch:

Begin by sewing your two pieces of fabric right sides together using the pattern seam allowance. In my example, I am using the Brunch Blouse and added a full lining to showcase understitching. You most often use understitching while attaching a facing or lining, so I added a lining to this pattern by cutting an identical top from lining fabric. After sewing the bust darts, center back seam, shoulder seams, and stay-stitching the necklines on both my main fabric and lining fabric, I was ready to sew them together. Open out both tops flat and pin the necklines together, right sides facing. Then sew all the way around the neckline with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip around the entire neckline, about every 1/2 inch, to help the fabric release and ease around the curves before turning. You want to clip through your stay-stitching lines but not through your seam allowance. Only clip up to the seam allowance line.

Press your seam allowance all towards the lining or facing. Make sure you press this well. Stitch 1/8 inch away from the seam line, on the lining side. This will hold all your seam allowances to the underside of the top when you are wearing the garment and will prevent the lining fabric from showing. Sew slowly while keeping your 1/8 inch seam allowance and readjust every inch or so around the neckline to make sure your curves are laying flat with no puckers. I prefer to stitch from the right side of the lining and feel to make sure the seam allowance is all under the presser foot, but you may stitch from the wrong side as well to be able to see your seam allowances while sewing them down. Finally, press your neckline well, making sure you have the lining fully towards the inside of the garment. I like to make sure about 1/8 inch of the main fabric is also towards the back of the seam while pressing to further make sure no lining will be visible.

Steps to understitching

You do not need to add topstitching when you have used understitching.

understitching steps

What is topstitching?

Topstitching can serve many different purposes. You can use it to add a decorative element to your make, like the back pockets of your favorite SOS pants. Or, like in today’s blog post, it can be used to hold the lining or facing to a garment. All topstitching will be visible and therefore it is important to do it carefully and have accurate stitching. Here are some tips to help your topstitching turn out great.

Topstitching

How to Topstitch:

Begin by selecting a thread that is suitable for your fabric. When applying decorative finishes, you may want a thicker topstitch thread and select a top-stitch stitch option on your machine which will create a thicker, more defined stitch. For my brunch blouse, I chose to use regular all-purpose thread and a regular straight stitch on my machine. You will want to slightly increase your stitch length when top-stitching. I use a 3 length for finer and medium weight fabrics and 3.5-4 length for heavier fabrics. Typically, the topstitching is sewn at 1/4 inch. You can use a specialty foot or use the edge of your presser foot to help keep a smooth, straight line.

Pressing will be equally important in topstitching as it was for understitching. Make sure you have pressed the area you will be topstitching well first to minimize any potential for puckers. You will want to avoid back-stitching while topstitching and instead, tie off your thread ends. These tips will help your topstitching turn out fantastic. Take your time and focus on keeping your line very straight.

Topstitching

For my brunch blouse, I used a burrito roll method to finish my arms, as I added a lining. After sewing the lining and main fabric cap sleeves, right sides together, I turned the bodice right side out and pressed. Make sure you press your fabric so that all the lining is fully under the main fabric and will not show. Next, topstitch, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and a stitch length of 3 down the sleeve hems. This topstitching attaches the lining to the fabric so that it will not be exposed during wear. Then I continued sewing the brunch blouse per the instructions, treating the lining and main fabric as one piece for the rest of the stitching.

Understitching and Topstitching Video

I hope you enjoyed this look at understitching and topstitching. If you have any questions, please visit the Facebook Group and join the discussion with so many very helpful sewists. And make sure to check out the other P4P University Posts for more help.

Filed Under: P4P University, Using P4P Patterns- Tips and How Tos Leave a Comment

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