Pattern Hacks Archives - Page 11 of 12

Exposed Seams Boutique Look Hack

March 8, 2016

I’ve seen the boutique french terry raglan with exposed seams countless times in the group, pinterest, and other sewing boards over the past couple years! I made one about a year ago, but never wrote up a blog about how to get the look. We’re still asked for it all the time, so I did another one while we’re updating the Women’s Raglan to include the extended plus sizes and new features our newest P4P patterns have, like layers. It’s looser fit is perfect for french terry, which is what the boutique ones are always made of and gives the same “slouchy” looser fit.

Overall, it is a really basic “hack”. But, I’m going to have to beg forgiveness for the photos! Apparently I did not check my photos as I was taking them and they are not great quality! Hopefully you can enjoy my Peter Pan-esque comedic shadow in them!

You will cut out your pieces exactly the same as a normal raglan for the main shirt. If you want to add the cowl with unfinished bottom edge you will cut 2 like the pattern states, but NOT on the fold. You could still cut on the fold to keep the fullness and just not sew in the bottom edge as well. Depending on how thick your fabric is and how big you want your cowl. I easily get claustrophobic with things around my neck, so one layer not on the fold was an easy decision for me ;).

When assembling the sleeves to the bodice front and back you will put WRONG sides together and stitch with your sewing machine using your favorite stretch stitch.

Trim the notches and smooth out your seam allowance.

Press seams out. You could top-stitch here if you preferred, but I left it open and free 😉 I thought it went with the look better.

Sew down side seams with right sides together, like you would normally.

I added the inseam pocket option from the Add on Pack as well (I can’t seem to make a tunic length without this option anymore!). I went with hemming the front to the right side to show the wrong side there as well.

For my hems I left them all raw and allowed them to roll up towards the front to show the wrong sides there too.

I attached the cowl the same way as the tutorial states, but only attaching one raw edge of the cowl to the neckline instead of two.

Done! Now you have a lovely boutique look that was such an easy sew and hack!

Button Cuff Hack!

January 26, 2016

I look to online boutiques and Pinterest for sewing inspirations all the time. By adding small details to an existing pattern, P4P of course ;), you can transform your favorite finds into your very own me-made version. During the entire month of January we are running a #PINspiredPIRATES contest. I took on the challenge and added a super cute button cuff to the Slim Fit Raglan. You can use any of the knit shirt patterns as a base, but chose the Slim Fit Raglan since it was the best to recreate the overall look. (original inspiration pic credit: Three Birds Nest.)

Supplies: 4-6 buttons; knit scraps, small hair ties, fold over elastic, ribbon (whatever you’d like to use for the loops)

Most of the cuffs included in the patterns are a little shorter than I wanted, so I added 1″ to the length. Since both ends of the button cuff are finished, I added to the width to account for the seam allowance. Refer to your cut chart in the pattern for measurements, then add 1″ to each. Cut 2.

Cut 6 button loops. You can choose what you would like to use for your loops. I went the easy route and cut 1/2″ strips of knit that was the same fabric as my cuffs. Since knit does not unravel, you can leave the edges raw. I pulled them taught so that it would roll in on itself. I cut them 2.5″ long but after completion they ended up a little too long for the smaller size button I used. I wrapped them twice around to keep the cuff closed. I would use 1.75″-2″ depending on your button size.

Fold cuffs right sides together.

Fold loops in half lengthwise and place them equal distance apart between your cuff layers. Be sure to leave at least 1/2″ from raw edge for your seam allowance when attaching your cuff. I just kind of eyeballed their placement to be sure they were even.

Stitch Short ends. Be sure to catch the raw edges of your loops.

Turn Right side out.

Add buttons. Be sure to attach buttons at opposite ends to create mirror images, otherwise, you will end up with 2 cuffs with tabs in the same direction.

Button the cuffs. Again, be sure to button them so you have mirror images.

Baste open edges together. I used a zigzag stitch to tack them together. Do not stitch through all layers or you will sew your cuff shut. You are only stitching through 2 layers of fabric.

Insert cuff inside sleeve with right sides together. Buttons should be lined up to the folded side of sleeve with button loops pointing to the back.

Stitch with 1/2″ seam allowance.

VOILA!

Followed this hack? Or came up with something of your own? We would love to see it! Share your latest make in the Patterns for Pirates facebook group, on Instagram (@patternsforpirates) and don’t forget to submit your PINspiredPIRATES entries by January 31st with tag: #PINspiredPIRATES

Women’s Raglan Nursing Mod

January 19, 2016

If you’re a nursing mom, you know that there are not many fashionable and functional tops out there for nursing that are reasonably priced. After having my little one last year, I quickly realized I wanted a nursing hoodie. I usually just wore a camisole and did the pull up method, but with a hoodie or sweater, that’s not quite as easy. I searched a few sites for inspiration and came up with a mod that works great for the looser relaxed cut tops. We just so happen to be testing the raglan add on pack at the time, so I used the Women’s Raglan as my base. This mod works best with thicker, more stable knits like French Terry, jegging (what I used in the tutorial), fleeced back knit, cotton Lycra, Ponte de Roma and so on. If using a knit with poor recovery, you will want to invest in some clear elastic.

First, you will cut two (2) Front pattern pieces on the FOLD. One will be your under layer and only needs to be about half the length. Measure from armpit to a couple inches below your bust. My example is approximately 9″ from armpit to bottom edge.

UNDER LAYER: Cut a “V” from about 2″ from bottom edge to top. You can also keep fabric on the fold and cut a diagonal line to create the “V”. Since knit does not unravel, you can choose to either leave the V and bottom edge raw, or finish the edges with your preferred method. You can also add a band at the bottom edge. I would recommend measuring the width and subtracting a couple of inches. This will help tighten the under layer and keep it under your bust.

TOP LAYER: Cut a semi-circle from each side. (tip: cutting the curves while the fabric is still on the fold will keep them equal) My curves start at approximately 4″ from neckline to 7″ from armpit however, you can adjust the curve to your liking based on your bust size and how deep you would like them.

Fold under curve 1/2″ to the wrong side and finish using a stretch stitch, zig zag or cover stitch. If your knit is less stable with poor recovery, add clear elastic in the hem for extra stability.

Place top layer wrong side to right side of the under layer. (my picture shows opposite, as I later decided to use the wrong side of the fabric as the right side of my finished garment.) Baste neckline and side seams.

This is now your new front piece. Continue construction of the raglan as shown in the tutorial. Finished product = An awesome nursing friendly hoodie or sweater! Once you’re done nursing you can go back and topstitch the curves closed and have an added design detail that no one would ever know it was for nursing.

Followed this nursing hack? Or came up with something of your own? We would love to see it! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group!

Carefree with added Button

December 22, 2015

I’ve seen a lot of draped front cardigans with the big wooden buttons on Pinterest and in the Boutiques…and of course I thought, “I can do that!” So the Carefree Cardigan Big Button Modification was born!

The Carefree Cardigan is perfect for the look.

I choose the neckband only option, cuffed long sleeve, and choose to leave the front and bottom raw.

I’ve been making a ton of Carefrees after Baby Girl made her arrival… it is such a nice baby wearing cardigan that I feel cute in and can wrap us both up in when it’s windy or cold. I can also use it nursing her so easily without worrying about bringing another cover or getting anything on or ready when she’s ready to nurse! So, I thought I’d make TWO buttonhole placements… one for normal wear that just pulls the cardigan closed at the neckline… and a second for when I’m wearing Baby Girl and need the neckline open much more.

I sewed up my entire cardigan exactly as normal. Then tried it on both with Baby Girl on me and without and marked where I would like the cardigan to close. Of course, Little Guy had to come photobomb a few shots ;).

I placed my button down a bit away from my neck, because I happen to be one of those people who can’t stand anything tight up against their neck (you will never see a turtle neck from this designer ;)).

So now I needed to create the buttonholes, which is a bit different then usual because I wanted the GIANT buttons that are so popular right now and my sewing machine can’t fit a button near that big on my automatic buttonhole foot. SOOOO, I made my own buttonhole with 2 different size zigzag stitches.

First I marked my button placement and how big I need the buttonhole to be.

Then I sewed a very narrow rectangle that would be my buttonhole. I turned my zigzag length down very low to 1, so that it was a tight stitch.

For the top and bottom of my rectangle I used a wide 5 zigzag and for the sides I used a narrow 2. I simple freehanded it.

I used matching navy thread, so I knew if it wasn’t exactly perfect that no one would be able to see. Actually, the thread matched so close it was REALLY difficult to get a picture of the buttonhole!

Then I used my seam ripper to very carefully rip a line inside the narrow rectangle/buttonhole.

I created a second buttonhole for my baby wearing, looser option.

Wa-lah! Now I have a great on trend cardigan that was quick and easy that I can button up with or without Baby Girl! 🙂

Raglan Colorblock Tutorial (Guest Post)

December 15, 2015

Today’s post is a fun one!
We are giving you all a special guest post from a Patterns for Pirates fan, who sewed up this adorable colorblocked version of the Women’s Raglan. Ashley posted this on the P4P facebook group and we couldn’t help but want her to share it on here.

Ashley’s tutorial is specifically for the women’s raglan, to achieve the look that she has masterfully come up with. BUT, you can take information from this and colorblock anything with these techniques! (For instance, P4P’s Katy shows you how to do a curved colorblock with the women’s henley on her blog HERE.)

Without further ado, take it away Ashley!

Front Colorblock

a. Start with the Front of the Raglan Pattern. Mine is cut for the Small size. I then take a sheet of wax pattern and unroll it until it’s just about the size of the pattern piece. Trace the existing pattern onto the wax paper and decide what length and neckline you would like. In this example, you’ll see the curved hem and a modified V Neck (see step 2 for instructions on doing the V-‐Neck prior to going onto step b).

b. From the end of the arm hole measure 2.5 inches Draw a line straight across the pattern piece (shown as the green line in Figure 1). . Then measure ¼ of an inch down from that line and draw another line. ( Shown as the blue line on Figure 1. Here you are adding on ¼ seam allowance for when you add your stripe pieces).

c. Cut on the pattern on the 2 ¾ line (blue). Continue with cutting the rest of the pattern. Make sure you make all of the original marks like fold lines and notches so that you can line up the pattern correctly. I also label what each piece is so that I don’t get confused later on. d. FT = Front Top, FB= Front bottom.

V-‐Neck adjustment

a. I personally don’t like a deep V-‐neck. So what I did on the Front is where the flat part (small pink line) is on the top of the pattern, where the front scoop (green line) and the armhole meet, I extended it to the left, approximately 1/4inch. I then eye balled it where I wanted the V to end on the middle front of the shirt and drew a diagonal line from that point to beginning of the new flat part (long pink line).

Sleeve alterations

a. Start by taking the sleeve piece and unroll two pieces of wax paper. You’ll have to tape them together in order for it to be wide enough.

b. Trace the outline of the existing sleeve.

c. Measure 2.5 inches down from the left shoulder seam that will eventually meet the front seam ( green line). In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dots line on the original pattern.

d. Measure ¼ inch from the green line and draw a straight line across the pattern (blue line). Again here we are just adding a seam allowance. In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dot dash on the original pattern.

e. RT= Right Top

f. I then used the existing solid red short sleeve line for where I wanted my stripe to end. I drew a line across there (green) and also ¼ of an inch down from there (blue). The middle piece with the seam allowances added is equal to 2.5 inches wide, which when sewn, will give you an ending piece of 2 inches.

g. Now that we have the top and bottom sections of the arm we need to do the middle part with the stripe. What I did to make things easier was draw lines across in the middle of the middle sections and shaded it in so that I could see how wide the stripe was going to end up being on the finished product. (See photo)

h. After I was happy with it I cut the pattern on the GREEN line of the RT and the BLUE line of the RB. Now here’s the tricky part. If you were to just cut out that piece you would end up with a middle piece that’s too small and therefore our sleeve length will be short. I took the RM in the wax paper and taped it onto two pieces of computer paper. I then measured ¼ inch on the top and ¼ inch from the bottom. I extended the lines out in order to make the total width of the RM 2.5 inches.

i. For the stripe in the middle of RM I measured the shaded in part of it and then traced the measurements onto a piece of computer paper so that I had a hard copy and not just the wax paper.

Cutting

a. Whew! The hard part is over. Now would be a good time to eat a donut or whatever your favorite snack is because you just made it through the hardest part of the hack (in my opinion.)

b. Now that you have all of your pieces you need to decide what color you want the top and bottom parts of the front. In my example the top is plaid and the bottom is black. I then took all the parts for plaid, FT, RT, RB, & stripe and made those into a pile. Then FB, RM, and Back in another pile for black.

c. When you lay out your pattern pieces make sure that if it needs to be on a fold, like the FT, FB, or back that you put it on a fold. For all of the sleeve pieces I just doubled up my fabric so that I end up with a Right and a Left once cut instead of mirroring (too much work).

d. I added about 1.5 inches to the bottom of RB also so that I could hem the sleeves. You do not need to add as much as I do it’s your preference. You can do anywhere from .5 inch to 1.5 here because we aren’t attaching cuffs.

e. The only thing you need to remember with cutting FB is that you need to measure up ¼ inch in order to account for the seam allowance when you sew them together. All of my seam allowances are ¼ inch until you sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Those you would do your normal ½ inch.

f. You also want to cut out your RM pieces. Those do not require a fold.

g. Once you have everything cut out, keep the pattern pieces for the sleeves pinned so that it’s easier to put all the left and right pieces together.

Sewing machine/Serger time!!!

a. Time to put this shirt together. The first thing I always do is my hems, so that they are out of the way. You can do them however you want but I find it easiest to iron first, then use hem tape, and finish with a straight top stitch. I avoid zigzag stitches at all costs just because that’s the easiest way for me to tell between a store bought and homemade shirt. Personal preference only.

b. Now that the shirt hems and sleeve hems are finished let’s start with the easier pieces. Take TF and BF with right sides together and sew at the seam. Always remember rights to rights.

c. I serge everything when it comes to apparel so when that is finished I press the seam and top stitch so that it lays nicely when you wear it. This is optional.

d. Now it’s time to do the sleeves. I took a strip of Heat N’ Bond Lite (or Wonder Under) and with the wrong side of the stripe on the sticky side, iron on the Heat N’ Bond. Let cool and then peel off paper backing. Then line up in the middle of MR and press to adhere to MR. Top stitch or zigzag around edges in order to secure (optional).

e. Line up TR bottom edge with MR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch

f. Line up MR bottom and BR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch. Repeat with Left sleeve pieces.

You are in the home stretch.
Now all that’s left is to follow the same steps you would take with any other raglan. Attach the sleeves to the front and back panels and then sew sleeve seams and side seams.

The VNeck I treated similar to any other neckband except I didn’t start with a loop nor did I measure it out beforehand. I just cut a strip about 1.5 inches wide, folded in half, and press, then starting at the V in the front attach like you would binding on a quilt or other necklines.

I hope everyone enjoys this new colorblock design and if anyone has any questions I’d be happy to help out or explain something!

***Next time I think I’ll just make the MR and Stripe one piece similar to the elbow patch instead of spending so much time sewing each piece of the sleeve together and topstitching. That way you could cut full sleeve pieces and then attach the MR/ML with Heat N’Bond and zigzag stitch down.

Lumberjack Shirt :: Sleeve Hack

December 12, 2015

Sometimes, I want/need to make a new dress shirt for my kiddo but I want to make it as quickly as I can. The collar and button plackets take enough time as-is, so the only thing I can truly eliminate (and save time on) is the cuffs. Most of the time, Louis is pushing and rolling his sleeves up anyway, so I thought maybe I could cut some corners and give him a shirt with the rolled up sleeve look. It’s cool and casual, but still has a “dressy” appeal to it. I love the entire look and idea of it.

First, you will need to get your hands on the Lumberjack Shirt pattern. If you don’t own this yet and you have a little person in your life, you should probably get on that. The Lumberjack is great in that it can be made lined, with a hood, and be this super awesome fall/spring jacket. Or you can make it unlined and with a collar and have yourself a custom-fit buttondown shirt. I’ve done both versions plenty of times now.

To achieve the faux rolled sleeve, it’s just a few easy steps. Promise.

After cutting out all of your pieces (you won’t need the cuff or placket!), per the pattern’s instructions lay out your sleeve pieces and take two inches off of the bottom edge. Why? Because when you roll the sleeves, it is tighter at the bottom and it might be too snug. Even with those little arms that are fitting into the top.

Sew the shirt as you the instructions direct you. When you get to the cuff/sleeve part, all you’ll need to do to finish the sleeves themselves is a simple three step process.

#1: Finish the edge. Serge it or do a small rolled hem. Anything to keep the edge from fraying, as it will not be fully enclosed.

#2: Turn the edge up 1/4″ and press.

#3: Turn the edge up 2″, but do not press. You want this to allow the “rolled up” look of the sleeve. Once rolled, hand tack the sleeve in two places (I chose the arm seam and directly opposite of it). The tacking will help the sleeve stay in place but still allow for the look to be pulled off.

Finish the rest of the shirt as instructed. And then sit back and enjoy the new beauty you just created.

I adore how the simple change of sleeves moves from a more formal shirt to something more casual. It’s such a fun look for a little dude, especially one who is singing in a Christmas concert at his school.

Followed one of the hacks shared on this site? Or maybe you came up with something of your own? We are DYING to know! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

And while you’re at it, make sure to pick up your very own copy of the Lumberjack Shirt. Happy sewing!

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not. The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy. Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works. But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit. The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form. Heaven, right?

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos. Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants. Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing. It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric. Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement. Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy. And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever! Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″? The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around. Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs. Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge. Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam. Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece. I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie. I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube. I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease. Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants. I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted. (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

Next, I marked my buttonholes. I did about 1/2″ from the center for each. I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

You will need to use a knit button hole. Here is what mine looks like on my machine. The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs. The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants. After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband. I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉 I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go. The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things. Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

Unlined Pocket Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket: Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

Stitch Pocket on front leg. Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

There you have it! Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs. Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams. (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks? Or came up with something of your own? We are DYING to see it! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

FST/LMU Mash Nursing Hack

November 25, 2015

I love the FST and LMU mash for after baby. It makes me feel stylish, put together and comfortable! The loose aline look hides any left over baby belly and the tighter top doesn’t feel you leaving frumpy.

For this hack I essentially did a double layer body. I can lift up the top layer and have the bottom layer covering my back/belly during nursing. And it looks like a perfectly “normal” everyday shirt! 🙂

I made mine completely doubled because we are going into winter here and I didn’t mind the added warmth. If I was making this for spring or summer months I would probably tinker with a faux double layer for the back piece.

I cut 2 front and back pieces.

Then took 1 front piece to modify for the under layer. I measured on myself from the neckline to under my bust (I did happen to have on the same shirt, so I didn’t even need to guess where the neckline hit ;)). Then I transferred that measurement to the front center and curved up to the armpit.

Since the FST flares out under the bust it was a little loose there. So I added a thin elastic to the raw edge. I just held the elastic taute (not tight) on my body from seam to seam (again, I happen to be wearing this shirt, so there was no guessing!). This way the two layers would have the same finish length–without the elastic holding up the center it would droop lower then the top layer. As well as not worry about holding it up while nursing–bonus :).

I choose to put my elastic on the right side of my under layer, because I didn’t want to feel it against my skin. But you can put it on the wrong side so that it is hidden when you nurse– whatever you prefer! You will need to stretch the elastic to fit the curve. I serged mine on, but any stretch stitch will work! It will line up right at the armpit.

I sewed the shoulder seams and sleeves on like normal. Then when going down the side seams I kept the main body layers seperate (so you can lift the top layer freely). It is a bit tricky right at the armpit, but just go slowly and remember you wont be showing anyone the inside of your armpit seam! 😉

Now for hemming, I choose to hem the top layer completely normal with a 1″ allowance.

For the under layer I choose to add a pretty lace trim to stick out longer then the top layer. I wanted the seam hidden, so I trimmed off 1″ from the bottom.

I serged my lace on right sides together trimming off about 1/2″ of both shirt and lace (the top of the lace that was blank).

Then flipped up and top-stitched (I didn’t want that seam flipping and showing through the dainty lace trim!). So, I trimmed 1″ and took off another 1/2″. This means my seam on the under layer should be 1/2″ above the hemmed edge of my top layer and the lace will peek out below.

I attached the neckband normally catching both layers on the back piece and top layer of the front piece.

Tada! I love my new warm winter nursing friendly shirt! It screams fashionable and not I’m nursing! 🙂 When you’re done nursing you can still wear it as is… or cut out the under layer!

Layer Me Up Nursing Hack

November 23, 2015

I love wearing my Layer Me Up tanks under cardigans during the fall and long sleeve option during the winter. I can pull down the neckline to nurse, but I love to have something up and down for nursing in public. So, this hack was born!

It is quick and easy too, which is a plus if you’re nursing and taking care of baby!

I cut out one layer me up exactly as the pattern calls for. I added one piece using the front piece. I measured from my armpit to below my bust and transferred that to the pattern piece. This will become my lift up piece hidden under my normal pieces.

Since the layer me up is a tight fit shirt that requires a 50% stretch spandex blend fabric, you don’t necessarily need to add any elastic to keep it from stretching out with wear/pulling throughout the day. But, you might want to add it to the bottom raw edge of the hidden lift up piece just to add a little weight and to keep it from shifting around at all during wear. I serged it on, then hemmed under.

I wanted the under piece hidden, so I trimmed about 1/2″ from the neckline. You could hem it under if you wanted it to be pretty :).

Pin your under layer to the wrong side of the front piece and sew up your shirt normal–the only other modification is at the neckline. You will attach the neckband only to the main shirt and leave your hidden piece loose. This way it is free to come up when nursing.

Now you have a shirt that looks perfectly “normal” and can pull down the neckline and hidden piece up to nurse! You can wear it after just as is, or cut out your hidden piece and wear :).

I grabbed a lovely colored ribbed knit without thinking (remember I have a tiny newborn 😉 ) and it had HORRIBLE recovery. No spandex— it grew and grew and grew! So, I will be trying this hack again in the correct material!

And of course, one with Little Guy photobombing 🙂

FST/LMU Mash Up

August 5, 2015

So you LOVE the loose a-line fit of the Free Spirit Tank, but would love it with sleeves?

Here is how you take the Layer Me Up Shirt to add sleeves 🙂

First… grab both patterns, some tracing paper and a pencil.

Trace your size of the Free Spirit Tank.

Place your Layer Me Up – SLEEVED BODICE piece matching on fold and at the top shoulder. Make sure you’re matching the front with the front 😉

Don’t worry about the neckline, although if you wanted it higher/tighter you could trace off the neckline from the Layer Me Up 🙂 Now just trace the armsyce from the Layer Me Up.