So Classic Sundress Hacks

August 3, 2018

The So Classic Sundress has released so grab your favorite wovens and sew yourself or your little ones a pretty dress. In true P4P fashion we have gathered some easy hacks that you can make to the So Classic Sundress that will give you even more options than the many included in the pattern.

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Gathered Thick Straps

The first hack we have for you is a gathered strap. If you would like a little more shoulder coverage or just want a fun new option, this hack is for you. Cut your dress as per the pattern instruction and simply cut the straps wider. For youth 3M to 4 you will be cutting the straps 7″ wide by the length given in the pattern. For 5 to 14, your straps will be 8″ by the length. If you are making this hack for the women’s dress then your new width will be 8″ (XXS-S), 9″ (M-XXL) and 10″ (1x-3x). The length will be the one listed in the tutorial.

Fold the straps lengthwise, right sides together and stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim the SA to 1/4″, press open and turn the straps inside out. Press and optionally top stitch.

Sew two gathering stitches at the top and bottom of the straps. One should be about 1/4″ away from the raw edge and the other 5/8″ away.

Pull the gathering stitches so the straps are 3/4″ wide for sizes 3m to 4. Your finished gathered straps will be 1″ ( for 5-12 and xxs – xs), 1.25″ (m – xxl) and 1.5″ (1x-3x).

Repeat this step for all raw edges of the straps.

Continue sewing the dress as shown in the tutorial. Tadah! you have a brand new option added to the So Classic Sundress repertoire.

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Skirt

For this hack, we’re going to do something that we love to do to our dresses- create separates. In this case, we’re creating a classic style woven skirt using the bottom portion of your So Classic Sweetheart dress. This is a great hack for everyday wear or more professional look as well.

To begin, you will want to decide which version of the skirt you would like, plain front or button up, along with length. Once you’ve decided, you will want to cut out your skirt pieces as given in the tutorial chart. The only change you will need to make is to your waistband. You will want to double the length when cutting it out.

To assemble the waistband, begin by stitching your waistband pieces together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

If you are making the button placket, you will now have a long waistband piece, that is constructed in the following order: front waistband, back waistband, front waistband. If you are making the plain front, you should have a tube. Trim seams and press open.

Fold waistband in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together. If desired, you can top stitch 1/8″ from top of waistband. Baste only your back waistband piece together.

Cut your piece of elastic to the appropriate length given in the tutorial chart. Using a safety pin or other tool, pull your elastic through the back waistband casing.

You will now stitch in the ditch at the waistband seams to hold elastic in place.

Your waistband is now ready to be attached to the skirt! Follow the directions as given in the tutorial and begin to enjoy that gorgeous skirt you just created!

~ Nicole and Erinn

(Nicole is wearing the button placket skirt and Erinn is wearing the plain front version)

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Ties Straps

I’m here to show you a super simple tie strap hack! This hack is great for tiny babies who are more difficult to get dressed, a grow with me length of strap that is super quick and easy, a way to get the perfect strap length every time, and of course, just another adorable detail to change the look up a bit.

Start by cutting 4 halter straps rather than just 2.

Follow the tutorial to finish the straps just as the halter straps are finished.

For placement use the suggested placement for the regular/traditional straps.

Finish constructing bodice and dress just as the tutorial instructs.

Enjoy the adorable bows on the shoulders!

Judy

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Simple Belt

While browsing Pinterest I saw a dress very similar to the So Classic Sundress that featured a real belt instead of a waistband so I knew I had to make a simple one and show you how to make your own belts.

Start by gathering your supplies. You will need fabric, any woven fabric will work, belt hardware (that I actually upcycled from an old one) and grommets.

Cut a strip of fabric 4 inches wide by 50-60″ long depending on the size you’re making.

Fold the fabric lengthwise with the right sides together and sew around the raw edge leaving a 2-3″ opening. Turn the belt with the right side out, topstitch around the edges so you close the opening and give it sturdiness.

Using a fabric marker or chalk, draw a 3/4″ line about 1.5″ away from the edge. This will be your buttonhole marking.

Sew a buttonhole using your buttonhole attachment. If you need a refresher on buttons and button holes check out the P4P University blog here.

Add the belt hardware as shown in the pictures below and sew in place. Optionally you can slide one additional metal belt loop on the belt.

Take the other side of the belt and mark your grommets positions. Make sure that you add your grommets to the right side of the belt so it matches the other end. I like mine spaced 2″ apart. Try the belt on to see if you need to add any additional grommets.

There you have it! You made your very own belt. Now think about all the fabric possibilities! 🙂

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Bow front

Adding a bow can be another way to add a pop of color or a cute detail to your dress. We’ve shown it here for the girls, but you could easily add this to the women’s as well using the same methods.

You will want to begin by cutting your rectangular bow pieces. You will need two rectangles. To determine the width, follow the graphic below (this is just a guide, you can make your bow wider or narrower, based on preference). For the length, you will want to make sure that it is wide enough to tie and fit across the bodice piece. It’s ok if it is too long, as you can always trim it down later.

Taking one of your rectangles, fold it in half with right sides together. Stitch, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat with other bow. Next, cut a “v” notch from the top of each piece, as shown below. Press seam allowance open.

Holding the bow slightly open, it should create a tube. You will want to align the stitched edge with the opposite side now, to create the curved edges of your bows (the seam should now be in the middle rather than the edge). Stitch around the curve, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat on other bow.

Trim along the curve’s seam allowance using either pinking sheers or scissors.
* If using scissors, make small cuts into the seam allowance, making sure to not cut through stitches. This will help your curve to lay smoother.

Using your favorite turning tool, turn bows inside out, smoothing out the edges and press. Top stitch if desired.

Taking your center bodice piece, position each bow and baste into place (make sure to leave enough length to tie the bow, as shown in the next step!). Trim any excess length. Attach side pieces as directed in tutorial.

You now have two options- You can either tie the bow in a simple knot, like this.

Or, another option is to create a center tie to hold the bows together. If using this method, you will not need as much length when you baste your bows.

You will want to begin by creating a small tube. Cut a rectangular piece 2″ width and approximately 6″ long. Fold in half, right sides together, and stitch using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Press seam allowance open and turn tube right sides out. Press, making sure that the seam is in the middle back of the tie.

Overlap your bows and wrap the center piece around them.

Stitch across the center piece to create a loop (as shown where pin is placed above). Trim any extra length that you might have and rotate the seam to behind the bow. Finish dress as per tutorial.

~ Erinn

Piping

If you know me you know I’m a huge piping fan, store bought piping that is. If I can add it to a dress I will, so it is only normal that I added it to the So Classic Sundress.

After cutting your pattern pieces as instructed you will add the piping to the desired seams. I love it at the princess seams and the sweetheart neckline. You could add piping to the straps, the waistband and even the bottom hem if you’d like. I would not recommend adding piping to the back as piping doesn’t look nice gathered.

Sew the piping to the center princess seams using a zipper foot. Store bought piping are smaller than the 1/2″ SA included in the pattern so place it a little bit away from the edge.

Sew the princess seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Take the front of the bodice and pin in place the piping at the raw edge. Start 1/2″ away from the side seam and stop 1/2″ away for the other side seam as shown below.

Sew in place and continue the dress construction as per the tutorial.

Such a fun detail and so easy to add!

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No Waistband

You might have noticed above that I skipped the waistband piece on the bodice. This is such an easy hack. All you have to do is use the lining pieces as the main piece. So you will be cutting two front linings (one in the main fabric and one in the lining), four front side linings (2 sets of mirrored pieces with the lining fabric and two with the main fabric) and two back lining pieces (one in the lining and one in the main fabric).

You can make this hack for all straps options and for both women and girls. 🙂

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Shirred back

The So Classic Sundress feature elastic casing at the back bodice but if you or your little one prefer the feel of shirring or would just like an extra option you can do that so easily. Construct the bodice as shown in the pattern and skip cutting the elastic pieces. and creating the casings and replace with shirring.

All you have left to do now is shirr the back using elastic thread. Follow the tips in the Shirring 101 blog we have for you as part of our P4P University. Easy peasy!

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Adjustable Straps

The pattern includes standard or suggested strap lengths, but some may prefer to have adjustable straps. I adjusted the width of my straps to do spaghetti style and used “lingerie” sliders from Joann Fabrics. There are wider width sliders and rings available from various shops (such as Bra-Makers Supply) if you prefer to keep a wider strap to cover your bra straps.

Cut 2 longer straps (these will be the adjustable section ) and then 2 short straps (this will be attached to the back portion of the bodice).

My straps were 1.75″ x 28″ (the length of the halter straps in the pattern). In retrospect I think adding about 8″ to the shoulder strap lengths in the pattern would be sufficient enough. My sliders ended up on top of my shoulders and I really didn’t need all that extra length. The short strap is 1.75″ x 3″.

Fold each strap in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch. Trim and press seam allowances open.

: Turn straps right side out.

: Pull end of strap through one side of slider. Note – the right side of your strap will be facing up. The middle bar of the slider will be on the wrong side of the strap.

: Feed strap through opposite side of the slider and then slide the ring through the end of the strap.

: On the wrong side of the strap, feed the strap end through the top opening of the slider.

: Fold the strap down and continue to feed it through the bottom opening of the slider.

: Fold strap end under and stitch.

: Feed shorter strap section through ring.

: Fold in half and baste in place.

Now you have a completed set of adjustable straps. Treat them as a single strap and attach to the bodice as shown in the tutorial. The shorter strap side should be attached to the back bodice. I also chose to do a criss-cross, so instead of placing them parallel, cross them over to create an X when attaching them to the front and back bodice.

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Front Bodice Cut-Out

The So Classic Sundress is a classic, vintage style but with this slight modification, you can make it edgy and on trend. You can adjust the size of the cut-out to your preference but I used the empire and princess seam as a guide as to where to place mine.

Construction is slightly different and since we will be enclosing our front bodice in the waistband you will not use the lining pieces in the pattern. Instead, cut out 2 (mirror image) of all the main front bodice, main back bodice and front and back waistband pieces.

: Construct your front and back bodice per pattern instructions and attached your straps.

: With right sides together , place lining on main front bodice and stitch along the entire top edge. (just as the pattern instructs).

: Open bodice from lining. With right sides together, place back bodice in side front bodice. (just as the pattern instructs).

: Fold main bodice so that it is right sides facing with the lining, sandwiching the back bodice in between the layers. Stitch side seams. (just as the pattern instructs).

: Moving the back bodice out of the way, pin the bottom raw edge of the front bodice along the V cut-out. Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Note – do not stitch along the side bodice section.

: Clip the center of the V up to but not through the seam-line.

: Open bodice and pull the back bodice out to turn the entire bodice right sides out.

: Press and top-stitch along top edge and V cut-out.

Now we will move on to construct and attach the waistband and skirt.

: With right sides together sew front waistband to back waistband at side seams (short ends), creating a circle.

: With right sides together, slip waistband over bodice. Baste in Place.

: With right sides together, slip lining waistband inside bodice. The bodice should be sandwiched between the main and lining waistband. Stitch.

: Fold and press waistband wrong sides together.

: Baste back waistband along bottom raw edge. Do not stitch the front waistband yet.

: Insert elastic in waistband.

: Stitch in the ditch (along the side seam) to hold elastic in place.

: Top-stitch front waistband and baste along bottom raw edge. Attach your skirt as per pattern instructions.

Now that you have all these extra options, go sew some So Classic Dresses and don’t forget to show them off in the P4P group !

Alex, Nicole, Judy and Erinn

Choker Neckline Hack

August 21, 2017

Choker necklines are all the rage right now, so we thought we’d give you the “how-to” so you can add it to your most loved top. I used the Favorite Tee since it already has a V-neck option but you can really use any of our t-shirt patterns and add a lower scoop neck or v-neck to it.

Once you have decided your pattern and cut your pieces, do not assemble your shirt! We need to finish the V-neckline first and is easier to do prior to construction. I chose to bind the V-neck, but you could also use a traditional neckband if you wish. (Need more help with knit binding? Check out our tips HERE)

: Snip a small “v” 3/8″ inward, on either side of the center of the v-neckline.

: Cut a binding strip 1.5″ x 90% of the neckline.

: With right side of the binding to the wrong side of the neckline, pin in place.

: Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Note: the binding will need to stretch slightly to fit the neckline.

: Press seam allowance up and fold raw edge to meet center. Press.

: Fold over again, covering seam allowance and press.

: Top-stitch.

: Fold V-neck in half width-wise and stitch down the center of the V.

Next, construct and finish your shirt as indicated in the tutorial, but do not use the existing neckband instructions. We will now finish the choker portion of the neckline.

I did not want the choker neckband piece to be too high on my neck, so used the Women’s Henley as a guide for placement. You can make your own adjustments if you prefer to have it higher or lower. Place a pin or mark on the neckline where you wish to have the choker band.

We are going to use the same binding method as we did the v-neck to finish the choker band. My binding strip is 2.5″ and finishes about 1″. Again, this is customizable and if you wish to have a thicker or thinner choker piece, adjust the height of your band accordingly. (just be sure to add 1/2″ to the height as we will be folding and enclosing the raw edges).

: Lay your shirt flat and measure the distance between either side of the neckline where you wish the choker band to attach at the neckline. This is measurement “A”.

: Measure the neckline from your marked point to center back. This is measurement “B”.

To determine the width of your choker binding: A + ((B x 2) x 90%)). For example, my measurement A is 8″. Measurement B is 8″. So my choker band is 8″ + 14.4 (or 8 x 2 then x 90%) = 22.4″ . To make it a nice even number I just rounded it out to 22.5″.

: Fold binding in half width-wise and stitch short ends together, creating a circle.

: Mark 1/2″ of measurement “A” from the fold.

: With right side of binding to wrong side of shirt, match center back and two front points of neckline and choker binding.

: Stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

: Press seam allowance up.

: Fold binding raw edge down 1/4″ towards center. Press.

: Fold and press the bottom raw edge 1/4″ between your V-neck.

: Fold in half again, just covering your previously stitched line.

: Continue folding and pressing the binding all the way around neckline.

: Top-stitch near the bottom fold.

Voila! You’re all finished. 🙂

50K Fan Celebration :: Lace Waistband PegLegs Hack

April 19, 2017

Every once in awhile, our Facebook group gets hit with a picture of a trending item with the question “How can I make this?”. For a few months, a picture of a lace waistband was circulated and while we secretly worked on the Peg Legs update, we knew we had to add it to our hack lineup.

To achieve this look, we are going to eliminate the waistband piece, but in order to help keep them up, we will be increasing the rise and adding elastic at the top edge. You will also need wide stretch lace (we used lace between 5-6″ tall) and 1/4″-3/8″ elastic.

I wanted to keep the original mid-rise of the leggings but since we are eliminating the extra waistband piece, I cut on the high rise line and added about 0.25″ to accommodate the elastic. Once cut, assemble the legs as you normally would.

Cut your elastic the width of the waist of the Peg Legs. The Peg Legs already have negative ease (meaning, they are smaller than your body measurements and stretch to fit) so we do not need to cut the elastic smaller than the opening. This is just used as extra support to help keep them up.

Butt the ends of the elastic to one another, and using a zig-zag stitch, stitch, creating a circle. Stitch the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric using your favorite stretch stitch. If using a serger, do not cut any fabric off. The elastic should be measured at 1:1 with the top of the leggings so should not need to stretch to fit the opening.

To determine the size of the lace waistband, lay your lace on top of the leggings and cut them 1/2″ wider than the leggings on either side. Cut 2.

With right sides together, stitch each short end with a 1/2″ seam allowance to create a circle. Flip right side out.

With both right sides out, slip lace waistband over the leggings. I wanted to encase my elastic so chose to fold over the edge of the fabric as well. Top-stitch using your favorite stretch stitch around the top edge of the leggings. I did not stitch along the bottom edge of the lace. I used a brushed poly so the lace sort of “stuck” to the fabric when worn so found I did not need to stitch the bottom edge in place.

We are celebrating reaching 50K fans in our Facebook group! To make it a party, our beloved PegLegs pattern just got an update AND some new add-ons. Before you go running to your machine to sew up your own leggings, make sure to read our PegLegs 101 blog post. This way, you’ll have all the the information you’ll need to make the perfect pair before you even cut into your gorgeous fabric.

But wait, there’s more! After any good party is an after-party. We are taking it one step further and sharing some easy hacks that’ll bring even more flavor to your favorite leggings pattern! We hope you check them out, make your new favorite pair of leggings, and know that we appreciate every single one of you amazing sewing guys and gals!

Here are our hacks / tutorials / latest tricks:

Lace Waistband Alternative | Drawstring Waistband Tutorial
Exposed Elastic Waistband | Stirrup Pant Hack
Ruched Ankles Adjustment | Decorative Topstitching Tutorial
Ruched Side Panel Hack

P4P Cardi Week :: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves Hack

January 26, 2017

Cardi Week is well underway and I love seeing all of the inspiration in the Facebook group and here on the blog! Today I have a fun hack to bring up the delicate, vintage vibe of the Summer Kimono to the next level. Side note: if it’s not summer for you (yet), you can totally wear this kimono all year round like with flannel, here. Or look cute and freeze like me here, either way. 😉

First, you’ll want to think about fabric choices. For this one, I used a very flowy lightweight woven chiffon. Due to the ruffles here I would suggest using a decently lightweight fabric like this, since you don’t want the ruffles to be too bulky. If they are, then they won’t lay exactly right and be a little puffy.

Step 1. Once you’ve decided on your fabric, start by assembling the pattern. Cut out your bodice pieces. Assemble the front and back pieces as directed.

Step 2. The first thing you’ll need to do differently is cutting out the bands. Instead of cutting out two 5″x28″ bands, cut out two 10″x38″ bands. This is where you’ll do the ruffles.

Step 3. Now, fold the two bands in half, wrong sides together matching the long edges. Iron the fold and pin/clip along the raw edges.

Step 4. If your fabric frays easily like mine, then you’ll want to do a zigzag (or other finishing stitch) right along the raw edges to stop it from fraying when you’re working with the fabric. Sew together both layers of fabric.

Step 5. Now, you’re going to need to gather the fabric. You can do this however you prefer, but for this project I recommend using basting stitches (straight stitch, loose tension, long stitch length). Sew down the raw edges twice, with the first line of stitching 3/8″ from the edge, the second line 5/8″ from the edge.

Step 6. Grab the bottom (bobbin) threads, and pull gently to gather. You’ll want to do this as evenly as you can, but you can adjust the ruffles as you go along or when you’re done too. Do this until the piece gathers shrinks down to the size of the edge of the sleeve, which will be around 28″.

Step 7. Make sure your ruffles are pretty evenly distributed, as much as possible. Don’t stress too much about this, since they will be hanging on the sleeve when done instead of laying flat on a table. 🙂

Step 8. Lay the ruffle pieces along the raw edges of each sleeve. Make sure the right side of the sleeve fabric is facing up towards you. Pin/clip generously. Trust me, you can’t really overdo it. (I used a different color of fabric for the ruffle in the picture, don’t get confused!)

Step 9. Now sew to attach the ruffles to the each sleeve. Take a 1/2″ seam allowance here; you should stitch right in between your basting stitches. Go slowly to make sure you don’t disrupt the ruffles too much, after you carefully arranged them. Once you’re done and you make sure that you like the way things look, remove the basting stitches.

Step 10. Finish the edges of the ruffles and sleeves. With a sewing machine, sew another zigzag or similar stitch through all three layers of fabric. Or with a serger, just serge through all three layers cutting off 1/4″.

Step 11. Press the seam allowance up towards the sleeve and away from the ruffles. If you didn’t serge the edge, turn the seam allowance down 1/4″, tuck under, pin and iron so that the raw edge is enclosed.

Step 12. Topstitch so that the seam allowance stays flat and pressed up towards the sleeve. Since this is a woven, I just used a regular straight stitch, but you could also use a twin needle for a fancier stitch.

Optional: Lightly press/steam the ruffles down along the sleeve seam and folded edge. Don’t press enough to make creases, but this does help the ruffles lay pretty flat.

Step 13. Complete the rest of the kimono as the pattern instructions dictate. I finished my edges and hem with lace, but you can easily use this same technique to add a ruffle to the hem as well.

All done! I’m totally in love with this look – can you tell I’m ready for spring with this floral print and soft colors?! I also easily styled this ruffle kimono with a gray Layer Me Up tank and my fave stretch denim SOS Pants. Comfy and cute! It can be done, ladies.

Now go out and make your own! Be sure to use the hashtag #P4PCardiWeek when you post in the Facebook group or Instagram!

Pirate-ly Yours,

– Elisabeth

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems and Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

You can follow along on the blog here, or in our Facebook group. Search #P4PCardiWeek to be able to find our posts all over social media. And please feel free to sew-along with us on one or all of the days. The more the merrier!

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

Between tomorrow and Saturday, January 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates cardigan using one of our hacks, or by keeping the pattern as-is. Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag#P4PCardiWeek We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog. Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week:: Butterfly Ruffle

January 22, 2017

Last week we released the Butterfly Cardigan, the mini version of the Cocoon Cardigan and is so cute on the younger girls. In case you missed the round up post, check it out HERE. To add some extra girly details to the Butterfly, we thought why not add a ruffle? We’ve had a similar cardigan pinned as inspiration for awhile so here’s our take on it.

The construction of the main cardigan (body, lower sleeve and cuffs (if chosen) remains the same, however, you will need to cut longer neckbands. You will then ruffle the band and attach in the same manner as you do for the original cardigan. Depending on the thickness of the fabric you are using, you will want to adjust the amount you multiply the band measurements by. I used a thinner rayon French Terry spandex so went with 2.5 times the band measurements listed in the cut chart of the tutorial. Use 2.5 to 3 times the width for thinner fabrics (rayon spandex, cotton lycra, etc) and 2 to 2.5 times the width for thicker fabrics (sweater knits and French Terry).

My original width measurements for a size 2 are as follows: Cropped front band: 31.5″ / Cropped back band: 13″ – Multiply by 2.5
My ruffle width measurements are as follows: Cropped front band: 78.75″ / Cropped back band: 32.5″. Since most knits are only 58″-60″ wide I will need to piece my front band so I chose to divide in half so will have equal pieces. I will now cut 2 front bands 39.5″ (I rounded up for the simplicity of cutting). Use the same length as indicated in the pattern. ( I added 1/2″ to mine but in hindsight should have kept it to the original 4″ for her size. The top neck tends to flop backwards too much with the weight of the extra height and ruffle.)

CREATING THE RUFFLE

1. Stitch short ends of front and back bands, creating a circle.

2. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press. Mark the midpoint of front and back bands. This will make it easier to match and attach your ruffle to the cardigan.

3. Stitch a gathering/basting stitch (set your stitch length to the longest possible on your machine) at 3/8″ and 5/8″ from raw edge. Do not skip out on the second row of stitches. I promise, that extra step is worth it! You will have more even gathers and if one line of stitching breaks you have a backup without having to redo them. I also like to gather in shorter sections so will stop and start at each seam of the band. Be sure to leave a thread tail for easy pulling later.

4. Match raw edges and align the side seams of the cardigan to the seam of the band. Pin/Clip in place. Match raw edges and align the seam of the front neckband to center back neckline. Pin/Clip in place.

5. Pull gathering/basting stitch (top threads) to gather band to match the length of the cardigan. *Tip: once your gather reaches desired length, tie off your thread tails. It will help keep the gather in tact while you even them out. Continue gathering each section until your band is completely gathered. Pin/Clip in place.

6. Stitch your band to your cardigan body. Flip down, press and top-stitch (if desired).

If the Butterfly Cardigan wasn’t already cute enough as it is, this surely made it! Now add it to your cart and make your very own Butterfly Cardigan for your little! 😉

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems and Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Raglan Week: Keyhole/Scoopback Raglan Hack

September 23, 2016

The classic basic silhouette of a raglan makes for a great base to play with fabric pairings and adding extra details to change them up a bit. I often look at boutique style for inspiration and the keyhole, scoop back has been a popular request among members in the P4P Facebook Group so we thought we’d share the how-to. I used the Slim Fit Raglan for my example, but this could easily be applied to any of the raglan patterns.

Print and assemble your pattern as usual.
Decide how low you would like your key hole and measure from the nape of your neck to desired length. I wanted the keyhole to sit just above my bra-line so went with 8″.
Draw your keyhole curve, starting 1″ inside the edge where you would attach your sleeve down to the length you desire. I didn’t have a french curve handy, so actually used the curve from the armscye of the sleeve pattern piece as a guide. Cut out keyhole.

Construct your raglan as usual.
We are going to bind the keyhole with the traditional knit binding method but you could also do a t-shirt band (like the neckband in the pattern) as another option. Measure the keyhole length then multiply by 90% (this is your width measurement) You will stretch the binding just ever so slightly to fit the opening. This will help keep the keyhole from gaping and lie flat. Binding = 2″ x width.

With right sides together, pin binding to keyhole, matching raw edges. Stitch with 3/8″ seam allowances.

Press seam allowance up and fold binding down towards raw edge. Fold again, enclosing seam allowance.

Alternatively, if using a thicker fabric for your binding, you can skip the first fold and just fold the binding over enclosing the raw edge.

Top-stitch with your favorite stretch stitch.

For the neckline, we will use the same binding method as shown above for the keyhole but need to take a few measurements to determine the length of binding you will use for the neckline only.

Measure your neckline. Pictured: shirt on the fold so my neckline is 2 times the length.

Neckbands are typically smaller than the neckline to bring it in and prevent gaping. To determine the amount of the binding for the neckline, multiply the length by 85%. Neckline = 24″ (it looks like 23″ but actually measures 12″ on the fold) so my binding length for the neckline is about 20.5″. Total Binding = 2″ x 58″.

Fold your binding in 1/2 to find the center point. My neck binding length is 20.5″ so we will measure out 1/2 to each side of center point. (or 10.25″ for my example). Mark end points.

With right sides together and aligning raw edges, match center point and end points of neckline and binding. Stitch with 3/8″ seam allowance from endpoint to endpoint to endpoint (neckline only).

Press seam allowance up and press binding down towards raw edge. Fold again, enclosing seam allowance.

Continue folding towards the end of the tails.

Top-stitch with your favorite stretch stitch.
Tie a bow and your done!

If you’ve created your very own version of a Keyhole, Scoopback Raglan during P4P Raglan week, we would love for you to share it with us! Head over to the Facebook Group or share on Instagram. And be sure to use the tag #P4PRaglanWeek so we can find you!

Curious about what else has been happening during our raglan-loving week of fun?

Just take a look at our schedule!

Monday, September 19: Jolly Roger Raglan Pattern Update + Jolly Roger Add-On Pack Pattern Release

Tuesday, September 20: JRR Woven Fabric Hack

Wednesday, September 21: JRR Animal Faces Add-On

Thursday, September 22: Contrast Band Hack for Kangaroo Pockets

Friday, September 23: Women’s Keyhole / Scoopback Raglan Hack

Saturday, September 24: Off-The-Shoulder Raglan Hack

Sunday, September 25: Adding Stripes to Your Raglan Sleeves

Essential Tank Maternity Hack | Guest Post

June 9, 2016

MATERNITY BLOG TUTORIAL: Applying the Layer Me Up Maternity Modification to Other Patterns For Pirates Patterns

Guest Blog Written by Kelly Bailey

Hi there! I’m Kelly and I am here to share with you my knowledge of making maternity garments; more specifically, how to apply Judy Hale’s Layer Me Up maternity modification to the rest of her other patterns. I have been a pattern tester for Judy for a while now and love it. I also run my own sewing shop Spindle & Seams and I work for the fabric shop So Sew English! If you are here I imagine you are expecting or expecting to sew for somebody who is. Congratulations! This is a step by step tutorial and I hope that after reading through this you feel much more comfortable trying your hand at maternity wear. For this tutorial you will need your pattern of choice and the Patterns for Pirates Layer Me Up Maternity pattern.

NOTE: I am 20 weeks gestation (4^th baby) in all of these photos.

STEP 1: Does the pattern even require a maternity modification?

Does the pattern your thinking of making really need a maternity modification? There are several patterns out there that are maternity friendly without even trying to be and some that would turn into a mess if you tried. Two of my favorites are the Patterns for Pirates Free Spirit Tank in the curved hem and the Boundless dress in the empire waist option. The Free Spirit tank leaves lots of ease throughout the bodice and angles out wider as it approaches the bottom hemline. The Boundless dress, in an empire waist, is only fitted just under the bust and accentuates the baby belly in the most darling way! The Everyday Elegance can also be maternity friendly if you opt to make it using a knit fabric with great stretch. This one has a lot of ease throughout the bodice even without using knit fabric but definitely will fit you until the end if knit is used. Some patterns just are not meant to be altered to be maternity. There is one P4P pattern that I just wouldn’t attempt for this purpose; the Sweetheart dress and peplum. This pattern is drafted to be an “at the waist” and is very fitted from the waist up. The Sweetheart looks best in thicker, more stable knits like ponte or scuba that only provide restricted stretch and are the most fitted in a location where your belly is going to grow drastically.

So when looking at a pattern ask yourself; Does the pattern have an empire waist? Does it have an at the waist skirt/peplum? What is the ease like through the waist and hips? What patterns cannot be modified easily for maternity and which ones IMO just wouldn’t look great on me? What kinds of patterns are COMFORTABLE for maternity wear? Will I be able to wear this garment post partum to ease the transition back into non pregnancy clothes?

Here is a rough guide of the patterns I would, wouldn’t or might alter:

Patterns that don’t necessarily require maternity modifications:

Patterns that I wouldn’t attempt to make maternity:

Sweetheart Dress and Peplum Top

Patterns that can be easily modified for maternity:

STEP 2: Choose your fabric content wisely. What fabrics to use for maternity and what to avoid.

Sometimes you can get away without making any maternity modifications if you use the right fabric on a pattern that has enough length to accommodate. Tunic length garments can be a great way to have a before and after baby closet staple. But most of the time you will need to make the modifications to comfortably fit until after baby is born. Here are a list of some knit fabrics to use and some to try to stay away from when sewing maternity.

Fabrics that are great for maternity use:

Rayon Spandex Blends (This can include french terry)
Polyester Spandex Blends (like ITY or brushed poly)
Cotton Spandex/Lycra Blends (This can include french terry)
Cotton Spandex Interlock Knits
Liverpool depending on the amount of horizontal stretch
Lightweight Sweater knits with lots of stretch

These fabrics all have great stretch and recovery. 4-way stretch is great but because you are adding in length to the front bodice you can easily use 2-way stretch knits as long as the horizontal stretch is pretty good.

Fabrics to try your best to steer clear of using for maternity wear:

100% cotton Jersey knits or Interlock
100% cotton French Terry
Ponte
Scuba
Nylon spandex and other athletic knit blends

These types of knits typically do not have very good overall stretch or they have what I call restricted stretch. Restricted stretch would be a fabric that has good overall stretch but is tougher to pull to get there. Similar to how some athletic knits try to hold you in as you work out. Maternity garments made with these knits may fit for a little while, but will likely not comfortably last you up until that cute little babe pops out of your full-grown belly.

Now that you have chosen a good sewing pattern and paired it with the right fabric we can move on to altering the front bodice piece of your chosen pattern. There is no need to alter any other pattern pieces. Yay!

STEP 3: Assembling and analyzing your maternity modification pattern piece and what the modifications mean.

Your Layer Me Up maternity pattern is going to give that belly some ease throughout the waist to accommodate growth width wise. It is also going to give you more length through the front bodice to completely cover your full-grown baby belly. You definitely don’t want your hand crafted top turning into an early 90’s belly shirt ¾ of the way through your pregnancy! For this tutorial you are going to need to purchase the Layer Me Up maternity mod pattern and a maternity mod friendly pattern of your choice. Now is the time to assemble both of these patterns and to cut out your sizes. Pay attention to your current bust and hip size. They may have changed since before you became pregnant. You may need to do some pattern grading because of it. See Judy’s blog post on pattern grading if this is something new to you.

STEP 4: Picking the pattern you wish to modify and lining up the maternity mod pattern correctly on top of it.

Now we are going to lay the pattern pieces on top of one another to see where we need to make modifications to our non maternity pattern. We will only be modifying the FRONT BODICE piece of the non maternity pattern. We are using the Layer Me Up maternity piece as a guide to adjust our original pattern. Line up your maternity pattern piece on top of your original pattern piece using the armpit at the reference point. The Layer Me Up mod piece should be placed a couple inches below the armpit of our front bodice piece. As you can see in this photo I have also laid the top original Layer Me Up front bodice piece to show that the reference point. If you do not own the Layer Me Up original pattern, don’t worry, just place the maternity piece a couple of inches below the armpit.

STEP 5: Adding paper along the original patterns waist curve for tracing.

You can see from the above photo that some parts of the maternity piece fall within the bodice piece of your original pattern, but there are parts that stick out as well. We are going to do some gentle transitioning and tracing on our original pattern to accommodate. First things first, decide where you need to add your tracing paper to your original pattern. Tape that piece of paper into your original pattern like so.

Now once again lay your maternity pattern piece over the top so that we can trace the new curve.

Be sure to use some gentle grading to transition the curve from your original pattern bodice piece to the maternity pattern piece. Trace along the maternity curve. When you are finished tracing trim off the excess paper.

Here is where you can decide to use the full width of the maternity curve or to trim it down about 1/3” to be more fitted for early pregnancy. If you choose to slim it down your top may not fit all the way up to your due date.

STEP 6: Adding Length to the front bodice piece.

Analyze the pattern pieces to see how much length discrepancy there is for the hem lengths. Pick a good location on the original pattern to cut and add in more length there. I like to add the length in at the shortest hem length on the original pattern. Once again, we are going to lay the Layer Me Up maternity piece on top of your original pattern piece.

As you can see from the above photo there is several inches of difference between the hem lengths. For this part of the tutorial I am going to illustrate how to add in the length necessary for rouching. Take measure of the difference.

Take note of this measurement and then cut your original pattern piece at the shortest hem length. On this particular pattern, this falls at the curved hem.

Add in your blank paper here and tape your original pattern pieces to the blank sheet being sure to only add the measured difference back into the original pattern. Trace a smooth transition line and trim off excess paper on the sides.

Now once again lay the Layer Me Up maternity pattern piece on top of your now altered original pattern and be sure that your hem lengths now line up with one another.

STEP 7: Transfer over the elastic sewing markings.

Line up the two pattern pieces and from the Layer Me Up maternity add on pattern and transfer the triangle elastic markings to your now altered original pattern.

Wallah! You now have altered your original front bodice pattern piece to be maternity!

STEP 8: Check out your new maternity pattern.

It’s super easy from here! Cut out your altered front bodice piece from your fabric and follow the LMU Maternity mod instructions as written. Make any adjustments through the bodice as necessary for a better fit for you! Again, you do not need to modify any other pieces from your pattern to make it maternity. I highly suggest trying on your top or dress BEFORE you attach the binding or hem in order easily make any necessary adjustments.

Exposed Seams Boutique Look Hack

March 8, 2016

I’ve seen the boutique french terry raglan with exposed seams countless times in the group, pinterest, and other sewing boards over the past couple years! I made one about a year ago, but never wrote up a blog about how to get the look. We’re still asked for it all the time, so I did another one while we’re updating the Women’s Raglan to include the extended plus sizes and new features our newest P4P patterns have, like layers. It’s looser fit is perfect for french terry, which is what the boutique ones are always made of and gives the same “slouchy” looser fit.

Overall, it is a really basic “hack”. But, I’m going to have to beg forgiveness for the photos! Apparently I did not check my photos as I was taking them and they are not great quality! Hopefully you can enjoy my Peter Pan-esque comedic shadow in them!

You will cut out your pieces exactly the same as a normal raglan for the main shirt. If you want to add the cowl with unfinished bottom edge you will cut 2 like the pattern states, but NOT on the fold. You could still cut on the fold to keep the fullness and just not sew in the bottom edge as well. Depending on how thick your fabric is and how big you want your cowl. I easily get claustrophobic with things around my neck, so one layer not on the fold was an easy decision for me ;).

When assembling the sleeves to the bodice front and back you will put WRONG sides together and stitch with your sewing machine using your favorite stretch stitch.

Trim the notches and smooth out your seam allowance.

Press seams out. You could top-stitch here if you preferred, but I left it open and free 😉 I thought it went with the look better.

Sew down side seams with right sides together, like you would normally.

I added the inseam pocket option from the Add on Pack as well (I can’t seem to make a tunic length without this option anymore!). I went with hemming the front to the right side to show the wrong side there as well.

For my hems I left them all raw and allowed them to roll up towards the front to show the wrong sides there too.

I attached the cowl the same way as the tutorial states, but only attaching one raw edge of the cowl to the neckline instead of two.

Done! Now you have a lovely boutique look that was such an easy sew and hack!

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not. The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy. Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works. But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit. The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form. Heaven, right?

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos. Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants. Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing. It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric. Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement. Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy. And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever! Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″? The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around. Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs. Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge. Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam. Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece. I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie. I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube. I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease. Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants. I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted. (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

Next, I marked my buttonholes. I did about 1/2″ from the center for each. I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

You will need to use a knit button hole. Here is what mine looks like on my machine. The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs. The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants. After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband. I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉 I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go. The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things. Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

Unlined Pocket Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket: Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

Stitch Pocket on front leg. Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

There you have it! Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs. Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams. (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks? Or came up with something of your own? We are DYING to see it! Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

Boundless Nursing Mod

August 5, 2015

I had lots of inquiries about nursing option for the Boundless Knit Dress. I know ladies love to create items they can wear during and after pregnancy! Since the Boundless has a lined bodice it is a super simple modification to do! Here is how I did mine 🙂

I cut out all my pieces normally- main fabric bodice, lining bodice, sleeves, skirt, and I did pockets for this one too! I did a mini length and didn’t add my 3″ I should for being super tall because I wanted a tunic length! I wear tunics and leggings much more then a dress 🙂

Choosing fabrics: I choose a spandex blend for both since the main fabric would be pulled and stretched a lot, you want it to have good recovery and not get stretched out and sloppy by the end of the day! The lining I choose a true spandex. I thought it would be soft on my skin, stretch nicely with the changes throughout the day of your bust measurement and be sturdy enough to do well with cut outs. I also choose a solid b/c it when you lift up you will actually be showing the wrong side of the fabric. You COULD sew the lining were a print shows, but you might make your brain very tired trying to figure it out 😉

You can follow the normal directions in the tutorial all the way through the bodice and skirt construction. ATTACHING the skirt is where we will change it up a bit! 🙂 ***Although, after creating mine I SHOULD have put right side of bodice to WRONG side of lining–this way the sides seams wouldn’t show when you pull up!***

Here is my bodice, again put together just as the directions say in the regular tutorial. For the main bodice fabric I choose to hem with an elastic hidden in the hem. I would’ve use a clear elastic if I hadn’t been all out 😉 so I used what I had! I measurement the finished bodice and cut to that size. I did not add for a seam allowance b/c I want to stretch it EVER so slightly with attaching.

Sew the elastic ends together creating a circle.

Now, I TOTALLY messed up here with pregancy brain, but didn’t want to unpick it! lol… so bare with me with this picture that is wrong! You want to baste the elastic stretching it EVER so slightly (I mean just barely) to the wrong side of the bodice edge. See my mistake 😉 I did right side lol!

Fold under and hem with the elastic enclosed in the hem. (Mine was obviously not enclosed b/c I messed up!)

Now for attaching to the skirt. I recommend using the “Traditional Gathering Method” for the skirt since there is elastic in the bodice, it might start getting bulking with elastic also in the skirt! Attaching the top with right sides together, but only catching the lining. The main bodice piece will be free.

Now you can try on and mark/make cut outs in the lining. I used my handy pen that disappears with a hot iron! I didn’t take pictures with the cut outs 😉 I’ve been asked several times what shape I cut out. I just did a horizontal slit below the apex (fullest part) of my bust. I thought it showed through the least that way. I just opened up the slit to use it.

Here is my finished nursing tunic from the Boundless Knit Dress!

And some with Little Guy sneaking in the action of course! He’s showing off his new toy! And I LOVE his face in the 2nd one, looks like he’s super impressed with the nursing mod! 😉

Love the pockets and the tunic length 🙂