Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

P4P University- Facings

Today’s P4P University is all about facings. We will take a look at what facings are used for, how to draft your own, and where you can use them in your patterns. A facing is a way to finish the edge of a garment. Although you will often see tutorials for using a facing in necklines, they can be used in many other ways as well. Today we will look at both a simple neckline facing, an all-in-one facing, and how to use a hem facing.

P4P University Facing Pic

**A video tutorial is available at the bottom of this blog post. **

WHEN TO USE A FACING

You can use a facing when sewing a pattern to finish any garment edges (necklines, sleeveless armholes, hems, and more). While they are more common in woven garments, you can also attach a simple facing to a knit garment if you are looking to replace the neckline binding or band. Let’s see how we can draft and use a simple neckline facing on the P4P Brunch Blouse Pattern.

Neckline Facing

NECKLINE FACING

You will need the paper pattern, tracing paper, pencil, ruler

Begin by measuring 2 inches down all around the neckline of the paper pattern and placing marks. Draw a curved line to connect your markings. Trace this line, as well as the original neckline, onto your piece of tracing paper. This will now be your facing pattern piece. Repeat for the pattern back. **The Brunch Blouse uses a center back seam. To remove this in your facing, cut off 1/2 inch from the center back line on your pattern piece. Then cut the fabric on the fold at the new center back line.**

Neckline Facing Draft

 

Cut your pattern pieces and facing pieces from your fabric. Make sure you are cutting your facing pieces on the fold as you would your front and back bodice pieces. Apply interfacing to the back of your facing pieces. You can leave off interfacing if you would prefer as I did in this knit pajama top.  Make sure you use knit interfacing if applying to a knit garment.

Neckline Facing Construction

 

Sew the shoulder seams for your front and back bodice as well as the front and back facings. Press the seams open. Finish the outside edge of your facing with your serger, an overlock stitch on your machine, or your preferred finish. Place the bodice right sides out and mark the quarter points with pins. Repeat with your facing. Match your facing and bodice, right sides together at pins. Stitch together at 1/4 inch using a long stretch stitch for knit garments. **Note this will finish the neckline at 1/4 inch lower than if you were to use a band. If you do not want a deeper neckline, make sure you add the additional 1/4 inch to the neckline during the tracing stage**

Press the seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch. (See this tutorial for help with understitching) Fold the facing to the inside of the garment and press well. You can now topstitch along the facing edge or simply tack the facing down at the shoulder seams for a cleaner finish.

all in one facing title

 

ALL IN ONE FACING

An all-in-one facing is a great way to create a clean finish on your sleeveless tops. This will create a finished edge on both the neckline and armholes using one piece. Here is how you can create this facing using the P4P Brunch Blouse.

Begin by marking two inches down from the underarm seam and make a mark on your pattern. Continue marking two inches down around the arm and neckline edges, creating a soft curve to bridge the two areas. See the pictures below for how I marked both the front and back bodices. Trace this new facing piece onto tracing paper using your marks and the original pattern lines at the shoulder, neck, and arms.

All in one facing tutorial

Cut your pattern pieces as well as facing pieces from your fabric. Cut your facing pieces from interfacing as well. Sew your bodice together at the shoulders only and center back if you are using the Brunch Blouse. For this facing technique, we will be using our interfacing to create the clean finished edge– the steps will look slightly different from the neckline facing tutorial above. Feel free to use either method on your facings.

All in one facing

 

Sew only the shoulder seams on BOTH the facing pieces and the interfacing pieces- DO NOT FUSE the interfacing yet. Next, sew the interfacing to the facing, right sides together, along the outside curved edges using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip the seam allowances around the curves. Finally, turn the interfacing and facing, right sides out. Your fusible side should now be facing the wrong side of the facing. Carefully align the pieces and press well. This will now give you a clean, finished edge along your facing without having to use your serger or machine.

 

All in one facing

 

 

Next, lay the bodice right sides out, flat on the table. Lay the facing on top, right sides together. Match all seams and pin around the neckline. Stitch with 1/4 inch seam allowance, then clip and grade seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards facing and understitch at the neckline. Once the neckline is done, turn the garment right side out and lay flat. Roll one side of the bodice in a tight roll towards the opposite shoulder seam. Wrap shoulder seam fabric around the rolled fabric, pinning right sides together. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam, being careful to not catch rolled fabric while stitching. Carefully pull the fabric through the opening and understitch as far as possible on each side of the armhole. Then repeat on the opposite side.

 

All in one facing

 

Fold facing up away from the underarm, match seams and stitch the side seams per the pattern. Trim away any bulk and fold seam allowance back down. Tack at underarm. Repeat on other side. The all-in-one facing is now complete. Finish the top per the pattern instructions.

 

HEM FACING

The final type of facing I will show today is the hem facing. This simple finish is helpful when creating a curved hem like the Brunch Blouse.

To create the hem facing pattern pieces, take your front and back bodice pieces and mark 2 inches from the bottom edge working from side seam to center. Make sure to mark your fold line and trace your facing piece onto paper. Cut one front and back facing from fabric and interfacing. Fuse the interfacing to the back of the facing pieces. Sew the side seams of your facing and finish the narrow side of the facing. (Make sure you are finishing the top of your pattern piece and not the bottom edge. Otherwise, your piece will not fit inside your garment without bunching.)

Hem Facing Tutorial

Complete your top per the instructions until the bottom hem. Lay your facing and top, right sides together and sew the raw edges together at 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards facing. Understitch. Press the facing towards the wrong side of the top. Finish with your preferred stitching. You can edgestitch the facing or handstitch a blind hem.

Hem Facing

 

This video will show you how to create the facings discussed in this blog post for those who prefer to learn that way.

Thank you for joining me today to learn all about facings. You can find more sewing tips and tricks on the P4P University blog posts.

Shannon 

 

 

P4P University – Interfacing for Garment Sewing

 

The correct use of interfacing is one of the main things that takes your garment sewing to the next level.  Today we will be talking about different types of interfacing, why you might want to use it and how to correctly apply it.

 

The first thing we need to clarify is the difference between stabiliser and interfacing.  Getting these two confused is easy to do, and people can often buy the wrong one for their needs, but their uses are quite different.

STABILISER

Stabiliser is a type of textile used to add extra weight to a particular part of a piece of fabric, usually so some sort of decorative work can be added to that section.  For example, you might add stabiliser to the wrong side of the front of a pair of children’s pyjamas to add some embroidery or applique to the bodice.  The stabiliser helps keep the fabric from distorting when adding the decoration to it.  It can be left on, trimmed down or torn off after use, depending on it’s type.  The picture below shows some embroidery on the reverse of a pair of pyjamas.  You can see the tear-away stabiliser still sitting between the A and the Y, after the rest has been removed.

INTERFACING

Interfacing is a type of textile used on the wrong side of a fabric to make that particular area stronger/more weighty.  For example it is often used in shirt collars to help them stand upright.  The interfacing gives the fabric more rigidity and is not removed, it is permanently attached. 

 

There are two types of interfacing, differentiated by the way you attach them to your fabric.  ‘Sew In’ interfacing is sewn onto the wrong side of your main fabric, within the seam allowance so it is not visible when the garment is finished.  Alternatively it can be quilted on in a particular pattern of your choice, so that it is visible when completed.  It seems to be less popular these days, but is the traditional, couture interfacing.

More popular is ‘Fusible’ interfacing.  This is the same as ‘Sew In’ but it has a layer of heat activated adhesive on the wrong side, which means it can be ironed directly onto the wrong side of your main fabric and adheres permanently.  The instructions for ironing will either be printed on the selvedge, if you have bought it by the metre, or they will be on the packet if you have bought it bagged.  It is important that you ensure the interfacing is fully adhered before sewing the garment together because otherwise it can start to peel off and look messy. This picture below shows an example of an iron-on interfacing attached to the wrong side of a piece of cotton.

 

Interfacing comes in many different weights, from a light weight interfacing used to add a little extra body to the facing on a silk blouse, to a very heavy weight interfacing used to reinforce the brim of a cap/hat.  I used a medium weight interfacing along the placket of my So Classic Sundress to give added support for the poppers and stop it distorting with wear.

Pattern instructions will advise you which weight of interfacing you will need, so that you can ensure you purchase the type needed to get the finish shown in the pattern listing pictures. For example, the Timeless Tunic notions require a lightweight interfacing for adding body to the neckline facing to help it keep the correct shape.

You will also find interfacing used in woven patterns to add body/structure/strength to shoulder seams, around pocket openings, along plackets, in collars, and even over entire bodice and sleeve pieces in jackets and coats.

KNIT/STRETCH INTERFACING

As well as woven interfacing, you can also find knit/stretch interfacing used for adding greater structure or strength to knit fabrics.  It can be used to stop these fabrics from stretching out too far, for example it is often used around pockets in a knit dress, so that the dress doesn’t become misshapen with use.  I like to use it to add greater structure to the front of my Go To Jacket before sewing on the zipper, as it helps stop the fabric stretching out when attaching the non-stretch zipper to the stretch fabric.

 

In this video I discuss a few different types of interfacing and show how they are adhered to fabric.  Sometimes seeing the fabrics being handled can give you a much clearer idea of what they would be like to use in real life.

Whichever type or weight of interfacing you need, the pattern you are using will give you details of what you need and when you need to use it.

 

Now that you know more about how to use interfacing, why not take a look at one of these patterns above or the Timeless Tunic or Tiny Timeless and put your new found skills to use.

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

 

 

 

 

 

 

P4P University – Sewing Curves

Knowing how to properly sew curves makes a huge difference in giving your garments a more professional finish! There are different techniques, whether you are sewing a convex or concave curve… think neckline versus bust. At the core, the key is all about eliminating bulk and resistance so your curves can lay as designed.

Clip The Seams

The first technique works for curves, like necklines, that require the fabric to spread in an array. It’s simple!

Once you have your pattern pieces stitched together, clip into the seam allowance every half inch or so. Take good care not to snip through your seam!

You’ll notice that the fabric relaxes because the tension in the curve is gone!

To demonstrate, I’ve added a facing to the neckline of the Brunch Blouse. After stitching together and clipping my seams, I turned the facing to the inside of the shirt and gave it a good pressing.

Look at that result!

Grab Those Pinking Shears

Pinking shears can pretty much do it all… they can reduce bulk and relieve tension in your curves. Even more, they stop fabric from fraying!

To demonstrate, I’ve stitched up the front bodice of the So Classic Sundress. This gorgeous pattern features princess seams. You definitely want to reduce the bulk in those princess seams that run right along the front of your bust!

After stitching my pieces together, I trimmed the seam allowance with pinking shears and pressed the seam open.

Here’s the result!

Your Serger is Magic

Once I learned how to gather on my serger, I wanted all the ruffles! It turns out that you can also make small adjustments that will help you to achieve the perfect curved hem on knits.

All you need to know… turn up that differential dial! You’ll want to test on a few scraps to determine how much to adjust the dial.

In this instance, tension is your friend! You want to create slight tension along the raw edge of your hem. That will cause the hem to naturally turn inward and help you to maintain that beautiful curved edge without fighting fabric folds. All you have to do is pin and stitch!

My fabric was a heavier knit so I adjust the differential feed all the way up. A lighter knit wouldn’t require the same adjustment.

Again, once I learned this trick, it changed my relationship with curves! I love it.

I hope you find these techniques helpful! Please drop questions in the comments below and join us in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group.

Happy sewing!

P4P University – Understitching and Topstitching

Hi Pirates! Today we’re going to take a look at understitching and topstitching to find out how to use them while making your favorite woven patterns. The written instructions are below or you can scroll to the bottom of the page to find the video tutorial.

P4P University Understitching and Topstitching

What is Understitching?

Understitching is the technique that is used to keep facings or linings from rolling out towards the front of your garment during wear. It provides you with the ability to keep any of the facing or lining from being visible while also giving you a nice, finished and crisp edge without any stitching showing.

How to Understitch:

Begin by sewing your two pieces of fabric right sides together using the pattern seam allowance. In my example, I am using the Brunch Blouse and added a full lining to showcase understitching. You most often use understitching while attaching a facing or lining, so I added a lining to this pattern by cutting an identical top from lining fabric. After sewing the bust darts, center back seam, shoulder seams, and stay-stitching the necklines on both my main fabric and lining fabric, I was ready to sew them together. Open out both tops flat and pin the necklines together, right sides facing. Then sew all the way around the neckline with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip around the entire neckline, about every 1/2 inch, to help the fabric release and ease around the curves before turning. You want to clip through your stay-stitching lines but not through your seam allowance. Only clip up to the seam allowance line.

Press your seam allowance all towards the lining or facing. Make sure you press this well. Stitch 1/8 inch away from the seam line, on the lining side. This will hold all your seam allowances to the underside of the top when you are wearing the garment and will prevent the lining fabric from showing. Sew slowly while keeping your 1/8 inch seam allowance and readjust every inch or so around the neckline to make sure your curves are laying flat with no puckers. I prefer to stitch from the right side of the lining and feel to make sure the seam allowance is all under the presser foot, but you may stitch from the wrong side as well to be able to see your seam allowances while sewing them down. Finally, press your neckline well, making sure you have the lining fully towards the inside of the garment. I like to make sure about 1/8 inch of the main fabric is also towards the back of the seam while pressing to further make sure no lining will be visible.

Steps to understitching

You do not need to add topstitching when you have used understitching.

understitching steps

What is topstitching?

Topstitching can serve many different purposes. You can use it to add a decorative element to your make, like the back pockets of your favorite SOS pants. Or, like in today’s blog post, it can be used to hold the lining or facing to a garment. All topstitching will be visible and therefore it is important to do it carefully and have accurate stitching. Here are some tips to help your topstitching turn out great.

Topstitching

How to Topstitch:

Begin by selecting a thread that is suitable for your fabric. When applying decorative finishes, you may want a thicker topstitch thread and select a top-stitch stitch option on your machine which will create a thicker, more defined stitch. For my brunch blouse, I chose to use regular all-purpose thread and a regular straight stitch on my machine. You will want to slightly increase your stitch length when top-stitching. I use a 3 length for finer and medium weight fabrics and 3.5-4 length for heavier fabrics. Typically, the topstitching is sewn at 1/4 inch. You can use a specialty foot or use the edge of your presser foot to help keep a smooth, straight line.

Pressing will be equally important in topstitching as it was for understitching. Make sure you have pressed the area you will be topstitching well first to minimize any potential for puckers. You will want to avoid back-stitching while topstitching and instead, tie off your thread ends. These tips will help your topstitching turn out fantastic. Take your time and focus on keeping your line very straight.

Topstitching

For my brunch blouse, I used a burrito roll method to finish my arms, as I added a lining. After sewing the lining and main fabric cap sleeves, right sides together, I turned the bodice right side out and pressed. Make sure you press your fabric so that all the lining is fully under the main fabric and will not show. Next, topstitch, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and a stitch length of 3 down the sleeve hems. This topstitching attaches the lining to the fabric so that it will not be exposed during wear. Then I continued sewing the brunch blouse per the instructions, treating the lining and main fabric as one piece for the rest of the stitching.

Understitching and Topstitching Video

I hope you enjoyed this look at understitching and topstitching. If you have any questions, please visit the Facebook Group and join the discussion with so many very helpful sewists. And make sure to check out the other P4P University Posts for more help.

P4P University – Armbands Tips and Tricks

P4P University – Armbands Tips and Tricks

 

I’m going to spend a little time today showing how I get the best finish on my armbands.  They can be quite tricky to get right and people often struggle with ‘bubbling’ over the shoulder, which can ruin the look of an otherwise perfect neckline.

The pattern I will be using to illustrate how I sew my armbands is the Youth Essential Tank.  There are many different cut lengths, from shirt to dress length and the option for a regular tank or a racerback cutline.  Today I will be sewing the shirt length tank option for my daughter, ready for the summer weather which we are all desperate for right now!

The first thing to remember is that there are pattern pieces for you to use for the neckband and armband options and these are calculated at 85% of the opening, but the fabric you use may need you to make some adjustments to those pieces to get the perfect fit.  A fabric like a 100% cotton interlock won’t have as much stretch as you may need and you will probably want to add a little length to your bands, perhaps recalculate at 90%.  Something like a ribbing/cuffing has lots of stretch and that could be cut at 75 or 80% to get the same look. Either way you will want to ensure that you sew the shoulder and side seams of your garment at the full ½” seam allowance or you will find that the bands won’t be long enough, as not using the full seam allowance will make your neck/arm openings wider than they were drafted to be.

If you prefer a video, I filmed the process of making my Essential Tank here:

Sew your shoulder seams and then prep your neckband by sewing the short sides, right sides together to form a loop.  Fold your fabric wrong sides together around the long edge and then place a clip at the joining seam.  Place another clip at the other end of the band by stretching the band a little to find the centre point opposite the joining seam.  Unlike a regular neckband, we won’t be quartering the neckhole and the neckband, just halving. Find the centre front and centre back of your neckhole and place clips. You should have this.

Next, evenly stretch the neckband until it fits the neckhole and clip the neckband to the neckhole at the shoulder seam (this won’t be the normal quarter point as the shoulder seam will be further towards the back). Then also place clips 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam NOT STRETCHING THE NECKBAND BETWEEN THESE THREE CLIPS. (If making an adult sized tank I wouldn’t stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the remaining neckband in between the clips either side of the shoulder seam and the centre front and back clips.

Sew the neckband on, making sure to use the full seam allowance, and remembering not to stretch the neckband over the shoulder seams.  This reduces the tension on the neckband here and helps to stop the ‘bubbling’ we spoke of earlier.  I prefer to sew with the band uppermost as it helps me keep an eye on the seam allowance. I also like to start sewing just before the shoulder seam as this is the area we will NOT be stretching as we sew.  It is easy to forget about this if you come to it at the end of sewing the neckband on, so I like to do this part straightaway so I don’t have to worry about forgetting about it later.

TIP – If you have difficulty managing the three layers when sewing the neckband on, or if your fabric has a tendency to curl badly, I recommend sewing the neckband together around the long raw edge before attaching it to the bodice.  You can either use your overlocker/serger without trimming any seam allowance off, or do a zig zag stitch with your sewing machine right at the edge (you may need to stretch the neckband slightly as you sew round, just to make sure it will still fit in the neckhole after sewing this temporary stitch).  It just keeps those two layers together whilst you are sewing it onto the bodice, then you simply trim if off with your serger blade when you attach it, or trim with scissors if using a sewing machine.

Press with steam and then topstitch.  You can either use a chain stitch as I have here, or a regular 2 or 3 needle coverstitch.  If you have a sewing machine then you can choose a twin needle, long straight stitch or zig zag/stretch stitch of your choosing.

Next we move onto the armbands which are sewn in the same way as the neckband.  First sew the short ends to form a loop, then fold wrong sides together and mark the seam and opposite point on the band with clips or pins.

The armbands are a little easier because more often than not you find the shoulder and underarm seams are opposite one another.  I like to put the armband seam at the bottom of the armscye, for comfort and so you cannot see it when it is worn, then clip in place.  Next clip the opposite end of the armband to the shoulder seam.  Again, clip the armband to the armhole WITHOUT STRETCHING for 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam (again for a larger sized adult tank, I would not stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the rest of the armband into the armhole between the other clips.  The idea behind this is that it should allow the armband to run flat over the shoulder seam, but then the added tension around the bottom of the armband will encourage it to flip up and sit snug against the side of the body at the bottom and sides.  

Sew, using the full seam allowance, then press with steam and top stitch as before.

Finish the rest of your garment as usual, and you’re done.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful and don’t forget if you have any questions we have a large community on our Facebook page who are always happy to help.

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Dana x

P4P University Color Blocking Tips and Tricks

Hello, fellow sewing friends! I’m super excited to talk to you today about color blocking.  As long as I’ve been in the sewing world color blocking has always been really popular.   A lot of patterns even include it!   But what if your favorite p4p pattern doesn’t have any color blocking options?   Well, today I’m going to teach how to easily do it yourself!    If you aren’t familiar with color blocking, it’s basically just adding interesting unique blocks of different fabrics to your pattern without altering the fit.  It’s a great way to spice up a regular t-shirt, use up some scraps, and make for some fun visual art.  You can color block anything from sleeves, front bodice, back bodice, legs, hoods, if it has a pattern piece- you can color block it. Now, let’s get started!

First, you’ll want to pick your pattern and print out your chosen size.   (If you are using a projector you can do it but I highly recommend printing whatever piece you want to color block.  For my example, I color-blocked just the front bodice so I printed that and then used my projector to cut the rest of my pieces. )  Now if you plan on doing any “angled” color blocks and your pattern piece is on a fold- I recommend tracing the mirror image and attaching it to your piece so you have the “full piece”.   I used The Basic tee for my son and chose to only block the front of the shirt.

Now the fun part-  Choosing your color block!  Honestly, you can really do anything so just start drawing!  I use a straight edge to make sure my lines are nice and tidy (easier to sew that way).  The only thing I would avoid is really complicated shapes or anything like a floating “v-point” that doesn’t reach an end (you can see my example below in the red no box). If you are new to this technique I’d start simple to get the hang of it and then you can expand from there. This is what I drew out and what will be the final “look” of my shirt.

Once you’ve drawn your color-blocked lines you’ll want to cut them all out and these are your new pieces. Decide which fabric you want for what piece and it’s time to start cutting.

Now here’s the most important part-   You’ll need to add seam allowance to those pieces. You can choose whatever amount but I usually go with 1/4 inch.  Now you can either do this by laying your new pieces on a piece of paper and adding it to that piece so it becomes part of your pattern piece.

 

Or what I do is simply use my quilting ruler while cutting to add it to my piece. So for the cut part of my piece that needs seam allowance, I just line my quilting ruler 1/4 over my cut paper line and then use my rotary blade to cut that line instead of my paper line.

Make sure you add seam allowance to every place that you cut out a color block line on your pattern piece.

Now it’s time to sew!   If you decided to do any intersecting lines like this one I did.  You’ll want to sew those pieces together first.   So line up your piece edges right sides together and sew with the seam allowance you chose.  You’ll then want to topstitch your seam allowance down.

(Tip- if you are using a coverstitch I like to do a reverse coverstitch on the seam allowances with a fun color to add some extra “pop” to my color blocking).

Now repeat this with your other pieces until they all come back together.  It should finish at the same size as your initial pattern piece before you added color blocking.

Finally, you can sew your garment together as recommended by the pattern. The only difference is you have a cool color-blocked piece instead of a plain piece!

 

Yay!  All done!!  Can’t wait to see what you all create!

Happy Sewing,

Michelle

 

 

P4P University – Adding Trim to Hems

P4P UNIVERSITY – Adding Trim to Hems!

Hello pirates! Today’s topic will focus on how to add a decorative trim to any hem – this is a super easy way to add a unique and decorative touch to your garments! This post will walk you through the steps to select your trim, prepare your hem, add trim to your hem, and also to launder your garments with trim. For this example, I will be using the Cozy Pants – Youth pattern, and I have chosen to do the shorts with the plain waistband and no pockets. I love adding trim to the most basic options because I feel that it adds a fancy design element while still keeping the project quick and easy – my favorite!

Now let’s get started!


Helpful Tips in Selecting the Trim: 

  • STRETCH FACTOR – If your trim is not as stretchy as your garment fabric, you will want to be sure the pattern you’ve chosen will still be wearable with a non-stretchy hem. Adding a non-stretchy trim will restrict any stretching. For the shorts pattern I have chosen, the legs are wide enough that it’s okay if the hem no longer has stretch. But if it was more fitted, then I’d have to switch to a trim that has an equal or similar amount of stretch.
  • TRIM WIDTH – For added convenience, I recommend selecting a trim that is either as wide or wider than the length of the finished hem. This allows for you to stitch the trim and hem in place in one step! This is optional of course, but I like to minimize the steps wherever I can! 🙂 Wideness of the trim will also depend on if the trim is placed on top or under the hem. For example, if you’d like for the trim to be on the underside of the hem, you may want to choose a thicker trim and/or a trim that you don’t mind will have a portion of it hidden behind the hem.
  • PLAN AHEAD – It is a good idea to already have your pattern, fabric, and location of trim decided on before selecting your trim. This way, when you select a trim you will be able to envision how it will look.  Also – be sure to have a scrap of your fabric nearby when shopping to ensure color coordination!
  • TRIM CONTENT – Be sure to see if the trim is made from material that could shrink. Trim made from cotton will likely shrink, so before sewing with it I recommend washing it in a similar manner that you plan to wash the finished garment (see end of post for laundering tips). 


Preparing for the Hem:

Now that we have selected our trim, we are ready to add it to our garment! Construct your garment as usual, but stop before hemming where you plan to add the decorative trim. Follow the steps below:

  • PRESS YOUR HEM & MEASURE TO CUT TRIM, press hem as indicated by the pattern and measure the length along the edge of your hem. Cut your trim at that length plus an inch or two. I like to add a little extra length to allow some wiggle room, and I cut off the excess later (pictured first below).
  • PLACE TRIM ON OR UNDER HEM, place trim as desired to verify that the length of the trim has been cut correctly and also to visualize the end goal. Adjust the hem and/or recut trim as needed. Pictured below: trim placed under the hem, also referred to as the underside (pictured second), and trim placed on the topside of the hem (pictured third).

    


Add Trim on Topside of Hem:

  • PIN, CLIP, and/or TAPE TRIM IN PLACE, secure trim in place and leave any excess trim unpinned/not taped – I prefer to leave the excess until after I’ve sewn it to ensure I don’t end up with a gap. I use wash away wonder tape for adding trims, bindings, and difficult hems – it is my absolute favorite tool! It sticks everything in place, is clear, and washes away – perfect for this project! For these shorts, I used my tape and also a few clips for extra security (pictured first below). 
  • TOPSTITCH TRIM IN PLACE, finish using your favorite topstitch to secure both your trim and your hem. Be sure your stitching is catching both the hem and the trim. Once you reach the end, cut off the excess trim where needed. I like to overlap the ends of the trim just smidge and cover the edges with a little fray check. Here, I use my coverstitch – but you can also use a zig-zag stitch, triple stitch, etc. My thread is the same color as my trim – so you can’t see the stitching, but here it is stitched on (pictured second).
  • Note: if you are attaching a narrow trim that is smaller than the size of your hem, you will want to first hem your item, and then sew your trim in place. You may also consider using a blind hem to minimize the appearance of stitching before adding the trim. *Tip* For very narrow trims, use a narrow zipper foot on your sewing machine to help you sew right along the edge of the trim!

 

 

OR

Add Trim on Underside of Hem:

  • PIN, CLIP, and/or TAPE TRIM IN PLACE, leave excess trim unpinned/not taped. I prefer to leave the excess until after I’ve sewn it to ensure I don’t end up with a gap. I use wash away wonder tape for adding trims, bindings, and difficult hems – it is my absolute favorite tool! It sticks everything in place, is clear and washes away – perfect for this project! For this example, I am using just a small strip of fabric to show how to finish the hem since I decided to add the trim on top (previous example). Here, I have only used tape to secure the trim in place (pictured first below).
  • OPTIONAL STEP FOR NARROW TRIMS, open up the hem and stitch along the edge of the trim closest to the bottom (pictured second). In the example below, we would stitch along the trim edge opposite of the pom-poms/circles. This is needed if your trim will not be secured by the final hemstitch. If you complete this step, using wonder tape would be the easiest method to ensure the trim doesn’t shift around while you open up your hem. If you don’t have tape, you could use pins, but be sure to only pin through one layer of fabric while securing the trim to the underside of the hem. Clips would not work because you wouldn’t be able to open the hem up. When stitching towards the end, cut off the excess trim where needed. After you have stitched the trim to the fabric, refold your hem.
  • *Tip* For very narrow trims, use a narrow zipper foot on your sewing machine to help you sew right along the edge of the trim!
  • TOPSTITCH TRIM IN PLACE, finish with your favorite topstitch (pictured third). If you did not complete the optional step, this stitch will also serve to stitch your trim in place – so be sure your stitching is catching both the hem and the trim. Once you reach the end, cut off the excess trim where needed (if you haven’t already). When the edges of the trim meet, I like to overlap the edges just smidge and cover the edges with a little fray check. Here, I use my coverstitch to finish the hem – but you can also use a zig zag stitch, triple stitch, etc.

      

And that’s it! Here is my finished product, with the trim stitched on top of the hem. How cute is this?? 


Caring for Garments with Decorative Trim:

Below, I have included my recommendation for caring for your garments with trim. However, this is just my preference, so be sure to defer to your own best judgement – especially when working with delicate fabrics and trims. I tend to use pretty versatile fabric that can handle a little more activity :). Also, I would be lying if I said I ALWAYS do this for items with decorative trim because I’m known to just throw everything in the wash together without a second thought. However, this has honestly led me to some sad occasions while folding laundry and seeing that my pom poms or fringe are now a mess and they are not always salvageable!! So I recommend the following:

  • WASH IN COLD WATER ON DELICATE/GENTLE CYCLE, preferably by itself so it doesn’t risk getting tangled with any straps or strings from other clothing.
  • SKIP THE FABRIC SOFTENER, fabric softener can lead to build-up on fabric over time. This can cause some fabrics to actually lose softness, and it can even lead to discoloring some fabrics. 
  • HANG/AIR DRY, this is strongly recommended based on personal experience! But if you must, you can try drying on the lowest heat setting in the dryer and taking out the garment as soon as it is dry to avoid allowing it to continue drying and get overheated. However, air drying is the safest and most reliable option.

I hope you enjoyed this post and found it helpful! Have fun sprucing up some of your garments quickly and easily, and be sure to share your embellished P4P items in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group! 

 

 

P4P University – Sewing with Swim

Hi, I’m Katy and I sew and blog for Patterns for Pirates. This post is all about sewing with swim fabrics. I first started sewing with swim fabric about five years ago, but I will admit that sewing swim spandex scared me and I did not think I would be able to do it! However, I am going to let you in on a secret, if you can sew with knit fabric you are going to be able sew with swim fabric! Swim spandex is now my favourite fabric to sew with. Making swimwear for both myself and my girls is such a satisfying experience.

Patterns for Pirates has great swimsuits patterns available with my favourite being the minute maillot. The fit is lovely and that low back option is super cute! And it is a quick sew too! I think it is a great pattern for starting out sewing with swim fabrics.

I actually use swim spandex for many other p4p sews, such as the sweetheart dress, gala gown, wiggle dress, hepburn top and dress, twist back top, pencil skirt, flutter wrap dress, fierce bra and peg legs to name a few.

Hepburn top (cropped and band added) and peg legs in performance swim spandex

Sweetheart peplum top in swim spandex and mesh

Flutter wrap dress in swim spandex

There are a lot of things to consider when choosing swim spandex:

  • The quality of the fabric makes a big difference to your project. The better the quality of the swim spandex, the easier it is to sew with; it will also mean your garment will wash and wear for longer too.
  • It is best for your swim fabric to have four-way stretch. This means the fabric is able to be stretched both horizontally and vertically which helps to make a comfortable and well fitted swimsuit.
  • Swim fabrics should be made of 100% man-made fibres such as polyester or nylon with a significant amount of spandex (10-20%). Polyester swim fabric will hold its shape better over time and I find it easier to sew with too.
  • Check if the print looks distorted when stretched on the body
  • Check how see through the fabric might become when stretched or wet.
  • I find it preferable to use a specific swim lining instead of the main swim fabric as the lining. I find it more comfortable to wear and easier to sew. Lining creates stability in the swimsuit and can smooth the body or allow better coverage on light coloured fabrics. Using lining can allow you to enclose seams too.
  • Choosing elastic for sewing swimsuits is also something to consider. Elastic needs to be able to withstand water, chlorine, salt and sun. Swim elastic is my preference because if I am going to the trouble of making a custom swimsuit I want the elastic to last. Rubber or clear elastic can also be used but I find it doesn’t last as well and can be trickier to sew with. But it does allow for less bulky seams. Pop over to a blog written by the lovely Dana to find out about elastics 101.

Swim fabrics require a special needle in your sewing machine. You can use a ballpoint needle, but I recommend a stretch needle for sewing seams and attaching elastic. Using one means less trouble with skipped stitches.

Example of the stretch sewing needles I use

When deciding what finishing stitch to use to topstitch elastics down or hemming swim fabric it is personal choice.

If you are lucky enough to have a cover-stitch machine for finishing your swimsuit that is ideal, but never fear because a stretch twin needle in your sewing machine will give similar professional finish too. It is  also quite common to use a zigzag stitch or triple zigzag stitch for topstitching on swim fabric (see photo below showing stitch examples).

The minute maillot swimsuit showing how top-stitching the elastic down on swimsuits looks using either a coverstitch machine or a stretch twin needle

Polyester thread is ideal for sewing with swim because it is not weakened by chlorine or salt water. Again quality of the thread does make a difference to the longevity of your swimsuit.

Cutting swim fabric can be tricky because it can be slippery. I like to use pattern weights because it helps to keep the fabric in place and a rotary cutter because it gives neat, crisp and accurate edges. Before cutting, I recommend that you place your fabric right side up. When doing this, take note of where the pattern will lie on the body and how it looks next to other prints. This will help to avoid an unfortunate print placement.

My cutting set up – fabric right side up, pattern weights and rotary cutter

If you like to use pins, make sure to choose fine ballpoint pins to avoid damaging the elastic fibres in the fabric and leaving holes in it. Clips are also another good choice when sewing swim as they are more gentle on the fabric and hold the fabrics in place well too. Whether you choose to use pins or clips is up to you.

                         

When you are sewing with swim for the first time, I recommend using lots of pins or clips. It helps keep the fabric in place and stops it slipping when sewing. If you are really having trouble getting the swim fabric to cooperate sometimes using a basting stitch can help hold things in place and it is easily removed should you make a mistake. Once basted, you can stitch the seam more easily and remove the basting stitch at the end.

                         

When sewing swim, I use a combination of my sewing machine, overlocker (serger) and cover-stitch machines. However, if you only have a sewing machine it is still totally achievable to make a handmade custom swimsuit. Swimsuits are designed with negative ease which means the pattern is slightly smaller than your measurements, so it fits firmly on the body and stretches to it. This means you need to use a stitch that has stretch to it, like a small zigzag, lightning stitch or triple stretch stitch.

These are examples below of some common stretch stitches I use on my sewing machine when sewing with swim fabric. Always use a piece of swim fabric scrap to test your chosen stitch; then stretch the sample to make sure it will be durable.

The ideal machine choice to sew seams together for swim is an overlocker (serger), so if you have one, I recommend you sew with it. However, my preferred technique for sewing seams together with swim fabric is to start with a triple stretch stitch. I like this stitch because it is strong (my girls can be rough on their swimsuits), but it is slower to sew. I then trim the seam allowance to ¼” and finish the seam with a 3-thread overlocking stitch. You can also use a 4-thread overlocking stitch to finish your seams if you prefer. Just make sure to get the tension correct otherwise your seams make not hold together well.

I love to use swim fabrics for making clothes, because it has a beautiful drape to it and it sits beautifully over the body too. Some people might find wearing clothes made from swim fabrics a little warmer in Summer, so I recommend making the pattern design feature to be sleeveless and with an unlined bodice if possible. Using swim spandex for peg legs is my absolute favourite thing to sew. It feels amazing to wear and smooths the body nicely too.

Peg Legs with Twist Back Top both in swim spandex

I hope you dive in and start sewing with swim. I know you are going to love it as much as I do. As with anything, all it takes is a little practice.

Happy Sewing

Katy x

P4P University: Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine vs. Serger: The Who, What, When, Where and Why of each.

When it comes to sewing, there are obviously a lot of tools of the trade. The most commonly thought of item would probably be a sewing machine I would imagine. We are all familiar with sewing machines and their general functions. But have you really thought of ALL the ways you can use a sewing machine? And what about a serger? What is its function and how does its use differ from a regular sewing machine? I’ll go over the functions of each, and show you examples of when you would use these on a couple specific Patterns for Pirates sewing patterns!

First and foremost, it is important to note that most sewing machines can do all of the same functions of a serger, but maybe not as efficiently or quickly as a serger can do them. A sewing machine can sew in a wide variety of stitches and placements, finish raw edges, create buttonholes, topstitch, hem, sew on buttons, sew on a zipper, and baste. A serger on the other hand, can really only sew and finish raw edges (but do so all in one step no less!) A serger can also be used as an alternative way to gather, and can do a rolled hem, but these are much less common uses for a serger. So, lets look at each machine more in depth!

Sewing Machine:

A sewing machine can sew two (or more!) pieces of fabric together to construct clothing, quilts, bags, or other textile arts. They usually have at least a handful of different stitch types to do this. There are straight stitches, zig zag stitches and sometimes even some fancy decorative stitches. When sewing fabric together, a sewing machine can sew along the edge of the fabric following the seam allowance of the pattern, or it can sew across the middle of a piece of fabric, several inches in from the edge. It is only limited by the throat space, but it is a imporant distinction over a serger to note that there is a lot of flexibility of where a sewing machine can sew on a piece of fabric. A sewing machine can usually also be used to finish (also known as overlock) the raw edges of fabric, either using a simple zigzag stitch or even a specific overlocking stitch (which uses a different overlocking foot.)  This is necessary to keep woven fabrics from fraying, to neaten the raw edges of knit fabrics, and to just give a more professional look to a seam. Sewing machines are also used to baste while sewing. Basting is the process of using the longest stitch length available to temporarily hold pieces of fabric together, or to gather or ruffle a length of fabric. Another important use of a sewing machine is creating hems, either with a single needle or some machines can even accommodate a double needle for hemming.

Hemed edge with double needle

edges finished on sewing machine with an overlock stictch, and a basting stitch sewn above it

gathering done using basting stitch from sewing machine

straight, zig zag, and decorative stitches from a sewing machine

topstitching

 

Sewing machines are also necessary for sewing on zippers to garments and bags, and some sewing machines also have other useful functions like creating buttonholes and sewing on buttons!

Sewing machine sewing on a button

Button holes and button

Serger

Now lets look at what a serger does. A serger can also sew two or more pieces of fabric together, but it is limited to ONLY sewing along the edge of fabric. The reason for this is that it also finishes, or overlocks, the edges of the fabric as it is sewing, creating a nice clean looking edge. So while a serger may be limited in what it can “do” its usefulness comes in how quickly and efficiently it does those things. For knit garments, a serger can be used to quickly construct an article of clothing. Woven fabric on the other hand, needs to first be constructed on a sewing machine, then have the seams finished on an overlocker (that’s another name for a serger by the way!)  Some lesser known uses of sergers can be accomplished by changing some of the settings. You can use it to gather a length of fabric by adjusting tension and differential feed, or create a narrow rolled hem by removing one of the needles and essentially having the loopers tightly wrap the edge of the fabric to finish it neatly.

Neatly finished edges

Gathers created on a serger

Rolled Hem done on a serger

When to use one vs. the other:

While it may seem like there is often a lot of bouncing back and forth between a regular sewing machine and a serger during a sewing project, each machine has its benefits for creating great things! I want to mention a few specific steps you will come across during sewing, and which machine you should use for each. First up, lets say we are making a v-neck, knit shirt pattern like the Favorite tee. The main garment construction like the shoulder seams, side seams, sleeves, etc., would best be done on a serger. It would come together very quickly this way. This then leaves the steps of hemming the garment and attaching the neckband. Hemming of the sleeves and bottom is best done on a sewing machine since a standard serger does not have that functionality.  Next, while many neckbands can be attached using a serger only, a v-neck will look neater and cause you less frustration, if you use your sewing machine on the v-neck point. Basting and slowly working on the “V” on your sewing machine will get you that crisp point. After the point has been created on your sewing machine, you can bounce back over to your serger to neaten the edges and attach the remainder of the neckband. Another aspect of constructing knit garments that you should use the regular sewing machine for would be inseam pockets. Just like for a neckband, the best way to get sharp corners on inseam pockets is with a sewing machine. You can then go back and finish the edges with a serger.

While you may find yourself using your serger a lot when creating knit garments, there are lots of other special circumstances that you may come across that you will need to go back to your regular sewing machine for, such as sewing on patch pockets, any type of topstitching, making buttonholes for either buttons or drawstrings, and sewing zippers.

When it comes to sewing patterns that are designed for woven fabrics on the other hand, your sewing machine will be doing the bulk of the work here! The seams should all be sewn on your sewing machine, and then the seam can be finished (aka overlocked) on the serger. Sewing first on the sewing machine may seem like an extra step or feel excessive, but it will make your garment stronger, and minimize your risk of busting out a seam.

Below are some examples of some P4P makes with details on which machine was used to create them!

 

Happy Sewing!

-Jody

P4P University – Grommets

Raise your hand if grommets scare you? Have you done everything possible, including skipping that cute drawstring, just to avoid installing eyelets?

I did for years! I even made buttonholes to avoid installing those little metal devils. Buttonholes!

But, I’m here now to show you how truly easy it is to install grommets in your makes. Within the next few minutes, you’ll wonder why you were ever intimidated.

For those who prefer a video tutorial, I’ve got you covered!

If you prefer a written tutorial, read on.

First, the anatomy of a grommet…

You will have your eyelet – that’s the piece that has a post. It will always be on the right side of your fabric. The backside is called the washer. The larger sizes typically have sharp teeth that help to better secure the grommet in place. The smaller sizes often have a plastic ring that sits between the back of your fabric and the metal washer.

Most grommet kits will also come with an anvil (remember the Coyote and Roadrunner from Looney Tunes?!) and a setting tool. It’s important to use the right anvil for the size of grommet that you are setting.

I always iron a bit of interfacing on the backside of where my grommets will be installed. That extra security means that you won’t be replacing a grommet due to your fabric stretching out.

Snip a small “X” where you want to place your grommet, taking care not to make the opening too large. You want it just big enough to push your eyelet post through.

Place your washer around the post of the eyelet. If you are using a smaller eyelet, place the plastic ring under the metal washer.

Set your grommet, face down, on top of the anvil and insert your setting tool in the post with the short end.

Give it a few good whacks with your hammer – four or five should do. As you are hammering, the post is actually folding down over the washer and securing it in place.

And that’s it! You’re ready to install your second grommet. You can feel how tight the fit is around your fabric. If it feels too loose, replace your setting tool and strike it with the hammer a couple more times.

Setting grommets is a wonderful garment-making skill to know and it will unleash even more creative possibilities in your future projects.

If there is any detail that I’ve left out of the written instructions, please do watch the video above. Feel free to reach out to me through the P4P Facebook Group, too. I’m happy to answer any questions you may have.

Until next time, happy sewing!

Rachel

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