Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Minute Maillot SAL – day 1 (print and cut pattern)

Welcome to the Minute Maillot

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the Minute Maillot here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth MM can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

This sew along is sponsored by Boho Fabrics. Emily has graciously offered our pirates and mermaids a discount. Code MAILLOT20 (valid until July 14th) will save you 20% off swim fabrics, notions and mesh in case they needed other supplies for the perfect suit 😊 (Happy hour bundles are excluded from the sale code since they are already discounted )

Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size(s). Patterns for Pirates drafts for 5’5″ height for the Women pattern so do not forget to adjust for height too. For swimwear, especially one piece swim suites like the Minute Maillot it’s important to measure your trunk as well. Measure inside shoulder, across your bust, down through your legs, over the booty and back up and over the shoulder.

P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for bust/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

The Basics of Sewing Swim blog post has a lot of useful information, especially if you’re making swimwear for the first time.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the SOS knit pants SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

 

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

SOS sal day 1 (print and cut pattern)

Welcome to the SOS knit pants

Sew Along!

Day 1 is for purchasing the patterns, printing and cutting the size(s) you need. If you plan on sewing for yourself you can get the SOS Knit Pants here, if you’re sewing for your little one, the Youth SOS pants can be purchased here and if you’re sewing for both of you (just think of the mommy and me matching outfits!) you can get the bundle.

This Sew Along will take place in our M4M & P4P Sew Along group so be sure to join the group not only for the exclusive discount code available for the patterns but also to post your progress this week. As always all daily posts will be here on the blog but you’ll be checking in with your completed steps in the group.

The SOS Sew Along is sponsored by Kammie Lou Lou fabrics and Stacy has graciously offered our pirates and mermaids 10% off retail with code “Sal10″.

Now that you have your pattern printed, time to cut the correct size (s). Patterns for Pirates drafts for 5’5″ height for the Women pattern so do not forget to adjust for height too. Make sure to check your inseam against the finish inseam of the style pants you chose. I am 5’5″ BUT my crotch to ankle inseam  is 28″ so I have to remove 2″ from the skinny pants since the finished inseam is 30”.

You will need your waist, hips and calf measurements in order to choose the correct pants. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tip for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit.

We always recommend making a muslin with the same type of fabric you plan to use for your “real” pair to make sure you get the perfect fit. Judy put together a great P4P University Blog that talks about pants and their wrinkles. You can read in there about some easy fixes for common problems.

Check out the day 1 video below and then comment “done” on the Day 1 picture of the SOS knit pants SAL album in the sew along group. We don’t allow pictures of the pattern pieces so this will count as your day 1 check in. Let’s get started!

SOS sew along | Day 1 – Print and cut pattern

SOS sew along | Day 2 – Cut fabric

SOS sew along | Day 3 – Back: pocket, yoke, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 4 – Front: pocket, inseam

SOS sew along | Day 5 – Leg inseam, side seam, hem

SOS sew along | Day 6 – Waistband

SOS sew along | Day 7 – Winners announcement

Minute Maillot :: New Pattern Release!!

Happy Release Day, Pirates!!  We are excited to be sharing with you the latest patterns in our swim lineup: the Minute Maillot and Minute Maillot Youth!

This pattern is about to make a splash in your swimwear sewing, because it’s super easy AND a super flattering to sew.  The pattern features partially lined and fully lined options.  The women’s also includes a bust support piece with elastic which you can sew swim cups to.  They both include 3 back neckline options: high, mid, and low.  The women’s also includes 3 front neckline options: high, mid, and low as well as 2 leglines: high and low.  You can mix and match to your personal preference for modesty and flatter your personal bodytype…or sew one of each variation and have a huge stack!

Never heard the word “maillot” before?  Here’s a quick history lesson:  In the 1920’s the term maillot was first used to describe a tight fitting, one-piece swimsuit.  In present day, the word has almost entirely been replaced by the term “one-piece” or “tanksuit,” but is now known in the designer’s world for specific styles that include higher cut leglines, and often plunging necklines or revealing cutouts.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

HIGH AND LOW LEGLINES (ADULT VERSION ONLY)

HIGH NECKLINE / MID NECKLINE / LOW NECKLINE (ADULT VERSION ONLY)

HIGH BACK / MID BACK / LOW BACK

RUFFLE SKIRT (YOUTH VERSION ONLY)

Are you ready to get in on the Minute Maillot fun?  Go grab your pattern(s) now!

MINUTE MAILLOT | YOUTH MINUTE MAILLOT |MINUTE MAILLOT BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group!  Minute Maillot Album | Youth Minute Maillot Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Friday, May 17, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Minute Maillot – Easy Hacks

Don’t let the name of the pattern fool you! While The Minute Maillot is a super quick sew, it is full of options. But you know us- we like to add more easy hacks that you can customize to your preference.

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Separates

Although I love the Minute Maillot as a one piece, I tend to wear a lot of two pieces in the summer and this pattern is so quick and easy to hack into a two piece!  Let’s jump right in!

Step 1 – Grab your both your front and back lining pieces.  All we need to do is add a bit of length to these pieces.  Add 1 1/4 inch to the bottom of each piece and then draw your side seam line down on a curve to match as shown here. You will do this on both your front and back piece.  NOTE: This is going to work best on the high back, the mid back will work but its going to leave you with a very thin back band.

 

Step 2: Cut out your pieces you will need one main and one lining of each the front and the back.  You will sew in your cups if using them just as instructed in the pattern but DO NOT sew on the underbust elastic! Assemble the top just as instructed in the pattern.

Step 3: Your top is now assembled and we just have to finish the bottom. Cut your 3/4 inch under bust elastic as stated in the chart and butt the edges together and zig zag in the round exactly like shown in the tutorial. .  Instead of attaching it to the lining only we are going to attach it in the same way as we did the neckline and arm elastic.  First we will quarter our elastic and suite and match them together.  The elastic will be on the lining side of the suite.  Baste your elastic to your suite making sure that the edge of your elastic matches the edge of both the lining and the main fabric.  I choose to serge my elastic on, you will need to slightly stretch the elastic to match your suite.  After you have it sewn in place you will flip it up to the lining side and top stitch in place, again just like all your other elastic in the suite you want to top stitch right on the edge of that elastic as close as you possibly can, this helps prevent the elastic from flipping out on you.

All done! Quick and easy and super cute! This would also work great in athletic fabric for a sports bra! I paired mine with the Hello Sailors bottoms but you could easily hack to make your own bottoms from this pattern as well!  You just need to figure out where you would like the top of your bottoms to hit and add 3/8th to that.  You would add 3/8 inch elastic to the top on the lining side and then top stitch in place!  You can also apply this same hack to the girls suit, just decide how long you would like your top you can make it as long or as short as you would like, add 1/2 inch to where you decided you would like it to finish and add 3/8 inch elastic to finish the bottom.  No measurements are provided for this but I would do an inch less then the finished measurement so you can stretch that elastic just a little bit.

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Low back strap

My favorite back option of the Minute Maillot is for sure the low one! I also feel like it gives me the opportunity to get even more creative. Let me show you how quick and easy it is to add a strap to the back.

Start by making the swimsuit’s low back option, any front option or leg you prefer. We will add the strap once the suit in completed. Place a quilting ruler at the bottom arm opening and measure the opening of the back at that level. In my case (1x) it is 9 inches.

Cut your back strap 6″ wide by the back opening you measured earlier. In my case I used a swim piece that was 6″x9″. This is a step you can customize to your liking. If you’d like a thinner strap you can certainly cut the fabric shorter than 6″. Fold the strap right side together lengthwise, sew along the top with a 1/4 or 1/2″ seam allowance (depending on your preference). Turn the strap inside out.

Bring back your swimsuit, back side up, and mark the point on the opening that matches the bottom arm opening.

Pin your strap in place making sure that the top of the strap matches the mark you just made on both sides of the back opening.

Sew the strap in place using a zig zag stitch, stretch stitches or your coverstitch. That’s all!

Tips: Using the same technique you can make the back with two or three thinner straps, two long ones  tied in a bow, two thinner ones crossed like an X….endless possibilities!

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Ruffles at the legs

Looking for one of the fastest way to make most little girls happy- add ruffles! For this hack, you will first need to cut and assemble your pattern according to the tutorial, stopping at the step which attaches the crotch seam. Once assembled, you will want to measure the width that you would like your ruffles to be. I choose to measure from the side seam to approximately the leg curve, giving me a 3″ area to add the ruffle to the front, as well as another 3″ to the back.

You will now cut the rectangles needed for the ruffles.  You will need a total of 6 rectangles, 3 for each side. To determine the total length needed, I took my 6″ I measured above and multiplied by 1.5. If you’d like a more full ruffle, you could multiply this width by 2. For the height, I cut each ruffle to 2″. My final ruffle measurements were 9″x 2″. After you’ve cut your rectangles, you will want to sew your gather stitches (the longest straight stitch on your machine). I like to sew two rows of stitches to help create more even gathers.

Beginning with your bottom ruffle, match the center of the ruffle with the side seam, then pin in place 3″ from the side seam on both the front and back bodice pieces. Pull your gather strings and adjust as needed.

Attach the ruffle using a narrow zigzag stitch. You may now remove the basting stitches.

Repeat these steps with both the middle and top layer, placing it 1″ above the previous layer.

After attaching the ruffles, finish sewing the crotch seam as directed in the tutorial and then finish by adding the elastic! Lastly, show it to that little cutie and see her face light up when she sees the added flair to her suit!


~Erinn

 

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Maternity

 

Hi Lovelies,

Today we are going to discuss how to hack the new suit to be maternity friendly. You’re going to need the Maternity Layer Me Up add on pattern piece and your front piece of the swimsuit. Okay, let’s get started!
First, before cutting fabric we will need to modify the front pattern piece.  You’re going to take the front piece of the swimsuit and you’re going to measure one inch above the High Leg cut line. From there you will have two pieces to add your LMU in the middle.
You’re going to tape the top area of the LMU maternity add on where the red line is in the picture by the bust line curve.
Then, you’re going to tape the bottom piece of the swimsuit by the bottom notches on the LMU pattern piece. You will now blend the bottom of the belly area on the LMU to bottoms swimsuit piece.
Now, you’ll use your newly drafted maternity front piece to cut out the front of your swimsuit (and your swim lining if you’re fully lining the front of your swimsuit).
Next, you will be gathering the center belly section. Instead of using elastic to gather like in the LMU add on instructions I did the traditional two basting stitches and gathered by hand to match the back swimsuit pattern piece.  You will start gathering at the top notch under the bust and go until the very last notch on the belly.
From here on out you will continue with the Minute Maillot instructions as normal. Bam, you’re done with your beautiful new maternity swimsuit!

Amanda S

 

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How Low Can You Go Back

I love a dramatic low back! The low back option included is a bit lower then natural waistline.  I kept seeing gorgeous Pinterest photos of super low backs and had to try one!

I marked a line from the high cut legline horizontally across my back piece.  Then marked a vertical line just continuing the back low cutline vertically down until it met with the horizontal line I already marked.  Using a french curve I drew the curve (you can also cut out and use the curve from the low option if you don’t have a french curve handy).

I sewed up the suit exactly the same, just lengthening the back elastic to match the lower line. (I didn’t measure, I just applied it as I sewed only stretching where needed).

Ta-Da! A super dramatic low back that would be stunning on any beach or romantic get away… I’ll have to try to get invited to one of those one day to show mine off 😉

Judy

It’s a Cinch…Bag FREE Sewing Pattern + Tutorial!

I have been having the hardest time containing myself over these bags!  I just love them so much and I hope you have the same feelings about them….because this is our newest FREE pattern and it’s launching RIGHT NOW!

Let’s make some It’s A Cinch….Bags!

Included in the pattern below are instructions on how to make a basic bag, or one of the animals like the fox, kitty cat, panda, or bunny!  There are also downloadable files for all of the animal faces (and the emoji face pictured), which you can use for htv, fabric paint or embroidery.  But wait, there’s more!  Included along with all of that are downloadable files for a soccer ball, volleyball, basketball and baseball!  I’ve got you covered all over the place!

Plus I totally spared you from having to install zippers this time.  (I know you were worried.)

**Stick around all the way to the bottom of this post for a full video tutorial of the assembly of these sweet cinch bags as well!

— It’s a Cinch…Bag PDF free pattern pieces, animal face files, and sports ball designs (found HERE)
— 1/2 yard main fabric
— 1/2 yard lining fabric
— 3 yards cording for straps, cut into 2 – 1.5 yard lengths.
— Optional: Small amounts of accent fabrics for ears, etc.
— Optional: Small amounts of fiberfill for the animal ears.
— Optional: Heat Transfer Vinyl / Embroidery Floss / Fabric Paint / Buttons / etc for Details

Recommended fabrics: quilting cotton, kona cotton, etc.

BASIC BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Using a strap channel piece, fold one of the short ends (wrong sides together) at 1/4″ and press.

Fold another 1/4″ to enclose raw edges and press again.

Repeat on the other short side of strap channel.  Repeat with other strap channel piece.

Step 2: Top stitch along both edges of strap channel pieces.

Step 3: With wrong sides together, fold the strap channel in half, meeting the long raw edges together.  Press.  Repeat with other strap channel piece.

Step 4: Fold channel pieces in half and place a pin to mark the center along the raw, unfolded edges.

Step 5: Grab one of the Main Bag pieces, in your main fabric and place it right side up.  Using your pattern pieces for alignment, place a pin or clip at the strap placement guides at the bottom, as well as the center top of the piece.

Step 6: Align one of the strap channel pieces along the top of the main bag piece, with the raw edges all matching, centered against each other.

Step 7: With one of the lining pieces face down, lay it on top, sandwiching the strap channel piece between the two body pieces.

Step 8: Using 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch along the entire top, straight edge.

Step 9: Flip your fabrics so they are now right sides facing out, and the strap channel is sticking above the body pieces.  Press.  Repeat with other main, lining and strap channel pieces.

Step 10: With the main fabrics facing up, lay your bag pieces so that they are mirrored and the strap channels are closest to each other.

Take one of your straps and using a bodkin, safety pin, or other threading tool, feed your strap through the channels.

Feed into the bottom left channel, out the top, and back down through the top right channel.

Repeat with the opposite by feeding a strap through the top left channel, out the bottom, and back up the bottom right channel.

You will now have two raw ends of your straps on either side of your bag pieces.

Step 11: Adjust your bag to have the outer, front of the bag facing you.  And clip or pin your straps with the raw edges facing away from the bag, to where you previously marked with the strap placement guides.

Step 12: Flip open your bag, so that the lining pieces are right sides together, and the main fabric pieces are right sides together, and the straps are nestled neatly inside.

Align all edges and sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance around the entire edge, leaving open only a 4-5″ space for turning.  Be careful not to sew your strap pieces into the seam on accident.

Step 13: Careful not to clip through your seams, trim your seam allowances down to help with a more precise curve.

Step 14: Turn your bag right sides out, through the opening you created in Step 12.

Step 15: Tuck your seam allowance back into the opening.  Pin or clip.  And using your favorite method, stitch it shut.

Step 16: Push your lining fabric into the main fabric side.

Step 17: Give your brand new bag a good press, pull the straps tight, gift it to your favorite person and make another!

BUNNY BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Place the ear fabrics right sides together.

Step 2: Using 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch long outer edges together.

Step 3: Trim seam allowance, being careful not to clip through your stitches.

Step 4:  Turn and press, topstitch if desired.

Step 5: Fold along the top, raw edge, meeting the corners together.  Clip or baste top edge in place.  Repeat with other ear.

Step 6: If using yarn for the bunny tail:

Wind the yarn around and around (and around!) your fingers.  The more you wrap, the fuller the pompom’s poof will be.

Once you’ve reached that desired poof, carefully slide the yarn off your hand.  Take a piece of yarn and tie it directly in the center.  Make the knot is as tight as you can get it.  I often secure the knot, and then switch my strands to the other side, and create a second tight not…just for safe measure.  Take your scissors and cut through the loops on each side of the knot.

4.) Fluff your new yarn ball…cutting the ends to make them more even if necessary.

Step 7:  Align your ears with the outer ear measuring 3″ from the edges.  And your bunny tail centered between the bottom of the ears.

Step 8:  Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

FOX BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Lay the face pieces with right sides together.

Step 2: Stitch with 1/2″ seam allowance, stopping at the marking guides on the pattern piece.

Step 3: Clip the center point and trim around top curves for a cleaner turning.

Step 4: Turn right sides out and press.

Step 5: Align with main fabric piece and topstitch the upper curves.

**Add your face details now.  Either the htv designs, paint, or embroidery.  It’s easiest to add everything at this step while all of the pieces are flat and unattached to other items of the bag!

Step 6: With right sides together, stitch ear pieces using 1/2″ seam allowance.  Trim seam.

Step 7: Using a small amount of polyfil (if desired), stuff the ear.  Repeat with other ear.

Step 8: Using the placement guide on the pattern piece, align and baste ears.

Step 9: Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

KITTY CAT BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Fold the inner ear fabric in half, with right sides together.

Step 2: About 1/2″ from the fold, sew a 1-2″ vertical line.

Step 3: With right sides together, align the two side edges to the outer ear fabric.  Sew using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 4: Trim your seam allowance down, for cleaner turning.

Step 5: Turn ear right-side-out and press.  Baste along bottom edge of ear, to help for easier assembly.  The “pinch” we created should fold the outer ear fabric a little bit in the front, creating a little more of a cat ear effect. 🙂  Repeat other ear.

Step 6: Add any face details.  And then using the placement guide on the pattern piece, align and baste ears.

Step 7: Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

PANDA BAG CONSTRUCTION

Step 1: Align two ear pieces, right sides together.  Using 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch around entire curved edge.

Step 2: Careful not to clip through your stitches, trim down the seam allowance.

Step 3: Turn right side out and press.

Step 4: Using a small amount of polyfil (if desired), stuff the ear.  Repeat with other ear.

Step 5: Add any face details.  And then using the placement guide on the pattern piece, align and baste ears.

Step 6: Finish the basic bag construction per the instructions.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN CORDING

Step 1: Cut several strips of fabric at 1.5″ wide.  You’ll need 3 yards total of length (or 108″).

Step 2: Sew strips together across the short edge, right sides together.

Step 3: Press open seam allowance.

Step 4: Fold your fabric right sides together, with the long edges now touching.  And sew with 1/2″ seam allowance down the entire length.

Step 5: Carefully trim down your seam allowances and cut the straps to the desired length.  In this instance, you need 54″ per strap.

Step 6: Using your favorite turning method, turn the tubes right side out.  Press your new straps, and top stitch along edges if desired.

Are you someone who considers themselves to be more of a visual learner?  Here’s a video that walks you through all of the same steps above.  Hopefully it helps!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the adorable It’s a Cinch…Bag that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Have a great week, Pirates!

Spring Time, Sale Time!

Spring time is here…and with it flowers are blooming and sales are happening!

Please enjoy our Spring Sale 4/2/2019-4/12/2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone) with code: springtime for 30% off your total purchase! The code will pop up on  your checkout page and you can just click to apply 🙂 So no need to worry about jotting it down or trying to remember it exactly!

We only have site wide sales 2-3 times a year, so grab the patterns you’ve been eyeing while you have the chance! <3

Have fun shopping and then sewing!

 

Sporty Piko – easy hacks

Ahoy, matey! As with most of our new releases, the P4P blog team has some easy hacks ready for you to help achieve even more looks. First stop by the shop and grab the Sporty Piko and Youth Sporty Piko, then let’s get started.

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Solid Back

You might have noticed that both the Sporty Piko and the Youth SP feature a color blocked back to allow for multiple prints or color fabric to be showcased. Well, what if you want a solid back without the horizontal seam? Super easy hack!

Start by printing your preferred style. Now grab the two back pieces. At this point you can do one of two things- remove the 1/2″ seam allowance from each piece and tape together (shown in first picture). Shown in the second picture, you could also fold each piece up 1/2″ and butt the two pieces together, matching the FOLD line and the side seam and …boom! There you have your new back pattern piece.

 

Cut your pattern pieces and sew the shirt as per the tutorial. Simply skip the steps that show you how to sew the two back pieces.

Tadah! All done! One more option to add to the Sporty Piko styles.

My little man absolutely loves his new shirt but if you want to treat yourself to an adult Sporty Piko with a solid back, simply follow the same steps and enjoy!

 

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Elastic crop top

Maybe you want a cute crop but aren’t interested in fussing with the drawstring option?  I’ve got you covered!

Follow all of the instructions for the crop option, including the 1″ hem.

Top stitch around the entire folded edge, leaving around a 3″ opening to thread the elastic through.  (I like to position my opening on the back portion of my items, but it’s really a personal preference.

Using 3/4″ knit elastic, cut a length that is your waist measurement, minus 2″.

Feed the elastic through the opening.

Overlap the raw edges of the elastic, being careful not to twist it, by 1″.  Sew the overlapped pieces together, using a stretch stitch.

Close up the opening of the bottom hem, and enjoy your new crop!

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Banded crop top

Elastic… draw string… and now we’re bringing to you a third option to finish off your crop top versions- a banded option. This is a quick and easy way to finish off your top, especially for those of us who are opposed to the dreaded finishing hem! 🙂

To create this look, you will need to cut out all of your pieces needed for the cropped version, as well as a band (discussed later). Once you’ve cut out your pieces, you will want to trim 1″ off of both the front and back pieces (everything else will remain the same).

Assemble your shirt as per the pattern directions. Once you’ve completed your shirt, it is now time to attach the band. You will want to measure the total bottom hem of your shirt. To calculate the final width of your band, you will take your total measurement x 90%. Then add 1″ for the seam allowance. For the women’s version, I recommend a length of 4″ and for the youth, a length of 3-4″, depending on where you would like the finished length to be.

Using the instructions for the banded version in the tutorial, attach your bad. That’s it! Go off and enjoy that new shirt you’ve just finished up using one of our three finishing options.

~Erinn and Nicole

Now that you got your patterns and looked over our easy hacks, time to sew! Remember to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group so we can all admire them.

Sporty Piko :: New Pattern Release!

I’m so excited to share our new releases with you today! The Sporty Piko has quickly been filling up my closet! You can get such a great variety of looks with this pattern <3

You wont believe all these looks can come from just one pattern! The Sporty Piko and Sporty Piko- Youth will have you asking, “How many Sporty Pikos is TOO MANY?” 😉

 

These patterns are drafted for a stretch knit fabric, but you are open to so many different types depending on what look you’re going for.  Want an everyday tee?  A hemmed option paired with  drapey jersey will give you that look.  Or are you going for a sweatshirt feel?  Try a french terry paired with the hood, drawstring or banded option for that more sporty style.

Both the adult and youth versions have a very loose, relaxed, even oversized fit.  They are drafted with two sleeve lengths (short and long sleeve with cuffs), a large size range (XXS – Plus 3X in women’s and 3M – 14 in youth), have multiple length options (crop hemmed, crop with drawstring, shirt banded and curved tunic), two choices to finish off the neckline (traditional neckband and a hood) as well as a fun, optional front chest pocket.  The back has a yoke at the top you can play up or down depending on fabric choices.

The Sporty Piko can make a great athletic top or a basic everyday tee too.  They’re so quick and simple to sew up you will have a stack in no time!

 

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

SHORT SLEEVE

LONG SLEEVE WITH CUFF

CROP HEMMED OR DRAWSTRING

SHIRT BANDED OR CURVED TUNIC

NECKBAND OR HOOD

FRONT CHEST POCKET

BACK VIEW

The most difficult thing will be to decide what option to sew up first!  Go grab your pattern(s) now and go ahead and plan one of each!

SPORTY PIKO | SPORTY PIKO YOUTH | SPORTY PIKO BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group! Sporty Piko Album | Sporty Piko-Youth Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Saturday, April 6, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Loggers :: New Pattern Release!

What do you get when leggings and joggers get together and make a baby?  LOGGERS!!

Today is like Christmas and my birthday all wrapped up into one because we are bringing you two brand new patterns that I think you’re really going to love: Loggers and Youth Loggers!These patterns are drafted for a stretch knit fabric with a 40-50% horizontal stretch, and you will want some vertical stretch for wearing comfort.  Both the adult and youth versions feature a tighter pant with cuffs and optional pockets on the pant length.  They are drafted in two lengths (shorts and pants), a large size range (XXS – Plus 3X in women’s and 3M – 14 in youth), have two rises (high and low), two waistbands (short or tall/fold over yoga) as well as an optional drawstring.

Loggers wear like a jogger but look like a legging.  Everything is finished with a band, meaning there is no hemming required.  And they are perfect for lounge wear, workout gear, swim cover-ups, layers under dresses/skirts, and everything in between.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options!

PANT LENGTH W/CUFFS

SHORTS LENGTH W/BANDS

SHORT + TALL/FOLD-OVER YOGA WAISTBANDS

OPTIONAL PATCH POCKETS + DRAWSTRING

Are you ready to get in on the logger fun?  Go grab your pattern(s) now!

LOGGERS | YOUTH LOGGERS | LOGGER BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group! Logger Album | Youth Logger Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Sunday, March 17, 2019 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Heart Pouch :: Free Valentine Sewing Pattern!

Have we told you (our Pirate family) lately that we love you?  We love you so much, that we are giving our hearts to you this Valentine’s Day.

Well, maybe not our actual hearts…but a Heart Pouch sewing pattern.  And it’s free!!  This zipper style pouch is super easy, quick, and fun to make, and takes very little fabric.  (Plus maybe you have some 9″ zippers laying around from the scarfs that you never got around to making this past holiday season??  It’s a perfect way to use up that stash!)

**Stick around all the way to the bottom of this post for a video tutorial of the assembly of these sweet little pouches as well!

— Heart Pouch PDF free pattern pieces (found HERE)
— 2 – 8″x8″ pieces cotton woven for main + lining fabrics
— Lightweight Fusible Interfacing: I like Pellon SF101, or Heat & Bond 3336 (aff links)
— 1 – 9″ zipper

Recommended fabrics: quilting cotton, kona cotton, etc.

Step 1: Prepare your pieces.  You will need one each of the pouch back, pouch upper front, and pouch lower front; in your main, lining and interfacing fabrics.

Step 2: Following the instructions from the manufacturer, iron the interfacing to your main fabric pieces.

Step 3: Locate the upper front piece in your main fabric, and lay it with the fabric face up.

Step 4: With the zipper face down, align it against the straight, raw edge of your pattern piece.

Step 5: With your upper front lining piece face down, align it along the straight edge, sandwiching the zipper between the two pieces of fabric.  Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 6: Flip open the upper front pieces, so they are now touching with wrong sides together, and your zipper is exposed.  Press and topstitch, if desired.

Step 7: Locate your lower front piece in your main fabric, and lay it with the fabric face up.

Step 8: Lay your upper front pieces with the main fabric face down, aligning the zipper to the long straight edge of the lower piece.

Step 9: Similar to step 5, align the lower front lining pieces along the straight edge, sandwiching the zipper between the two pieces of fabric.  Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Step 10: Flip open the lower front pieces, so they are now touching with wrong sides together, and your zipper is exposed.  Press and topstitch, if desired.

Step 11: Open up your zipper, and trim any excess length if needed.

Step 12: Clip your zipper opening together and zigzag stitch to baste the edge shut.

Step 13: Lay your completed front piece with the main fabric face up.

Step 14: Place your main back piece on top, with right sides together.

Step 15: Flip the entire group over, so that now the lining side is face up.

Step 16: Place your lining back piece on top, with right sides together.

Step 17: Pin/clip and sew entire outer edge with 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 2″ – 3″ opening along one of the straighter sides.

Step 18: Clip into the top point seam allowance as closely as you can, without clipping through your stitches.  Trim around entire outer edge, for easy and cleaner turning.

Step 19: Turn your pouch right sides out, through the opening of the main fabric pieces.

Step 20: Press and smooth out all corners, round edges and bottom point.

Step 21: To close up your opening with no raw edges showing, pinch three of the raw edges together…treating them as one.  And the fourth raw edge as it’s own.

Step 22: Tuck raw edges in and pin/clip.

Step 23: Using your favorite blind stitch, close up the opening.

Step 24: You’re finished!  Go fill your new heart pouch with whatever goodies will fit in it, or gift it to someone who will do the same.

Are you someone who considers themselves to be more of a visual learner?  Here’s a video that walks you through all of the same steps above.  Hopefully it helps!

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us.  Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous Heart Pouch that you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!  Happy Valentine’s Day, friends!

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