We are so excited to be celebrating another release day with our favorite Pirate Crew! We’ve been wanting to put out a bodysuit for forever now, and the day is finally here. Let’s learn all about the Be Bold Bodysuits, available in both Adult and Youth sizes!
The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X! If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.
*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.
Let’s take a quick look at all of the options!
There are three options available for the sleeves- short, 3/4, and long. If sleeves are quite the look you’re going for, check out the sleeveless options, including a classic tank strap as well as a thin strap tank. For the necklines, not only is it a fun squared design, there are several options that can be mixed and matched. If you’re feeling a bit daring, there is a low option available for both front and back bodices. If you’d like a little more coverage, there are also higher cutlines. You can use these options together to create your perfect look. To help finish the necklines, use either a simple picot elastic or finish with a lining and shelf bra. To round out the Be Bold Bodysuit, you have multiple leg options (available on the adult version). This includes either a thong or brief plus you can choose if you’d like the seam in the traditional back spot or add snaps with a front seam for ease of snapping. The bodysuit is partially lined so you can use the bodysuit as your undergarment.
ADULT LEGLINE OPTIONS
LINED w/SHELF BRA
What are you waiting for? Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the perfect Be Bold patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, March 19, 2021.
Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!
If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Be Bold Easy Hacks post.
P4P University – Armbands Tips and Tricks
I’m going to spend a little time today showing how I get the best finish on my armbands. They can be quite tricky to get right and people often struggle with ‘bubbling’ over the shoulder, which can ruin the look of an otherwise perfect neckline.
The pattern I will be using to illustrate how I sew my armbands is the Youth Essential Tank. There are many different cut lengths, from shirt to dress length and the option for a regular tank or a racerback cutline. Today I will be sewing the shirt length tank option for my daughter, ready for the summer weather which we are all desperate for right now!
The first thing to remember is that there are pattern pieces for you to use for the neckband and armband options and these are calculated at 85% of the opening, but the fabric you use may need you to make some adjustments to those pieces to get the perfect fit. A fabric like a 100% cotton interlock won’t have as much stretch as you may need and you will probably want to add a little length to your bands, perhaps recalculate at 90%. Something like a ribbing/cuffing has lots of stretch and that could be cut at 75 or 80% to get the same look. Either way you will want to ensure that you sew the shoulder and side seams of your garment at the full ½” seam allowance or you will find that the bands won’t be long enough, as not using the full seam allowance will make your neck/arm openings wider than they were drafted to be.
If you prefer a video, I filmed the process of making my Essential Tank here:
Sew your shoulder seams and then prep your neckband by sewing the short sides, right sides together to form a loop. Fold your fabric wrong sides together around the long edge and then place a clip at the joining seam. Place another clip at the other end of the band by stretching the band a little to find the centre point opposite the joining seam. Unlike a regular neckband, we won’t be quartering the neckhole and the neckband, just halving. Find the centre front and centre back of your neckhole and place clips. You should have this.
Next, evenly stretch the neckband until it fits the neckhole and clip the neckband to the neckhole at the shoulder seam (this won’t be the normal quarter point as the shoulder seam will be further towards the back). Then also place clips 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam NOT STRETCHING THE NECKBAND BETWEEN THESE THREE CLIPS. (If making an adult sized tank I wouldn’t stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the remaining neckband in between the clips either side of the shoulder seam and the centre front and back clips.
Sew the neckband on, making sure to use the full seam allowance, and remembering not to stretch the neckband over the shoulder seams. This reduces the tension on the neckband here and helps to stop the ‘bubbling’ we spoke of earlier. I prefer to sew with the band uppermost as it helps me keep an eye on the seam allowance. I also like to start sewing just before the shoulder seam as this is the area we will NOT be stretching as we sew. It is easy to forget about this if you come to it at the end of sewing the neckband on, so I like to do this part straightaway so I don’t have to worry about forgetting about it later.
TIP – If you have difficulty managing the three layers when sewing the neckband on, or if your fabric has a tendency to curl badly, I recommend sewing the neckband together around the long raw edge before attaching it to the bodice. You can either use your overlocker/serger without trimming any seam allowance off, or do a zig zag stitch with your sewing machine right at the edge (you may need to stretch the neckband slightly as you sew round, just to make sure it will still fit in the neckhole after sewing this temporary stitch). It just keeps those two layers together whilst you are sewing it onto the bodice, then you simply trim if off with your serger blade when you attach it, or trim with scissors if using a sewing machine.
Press with steam and then topstitch. You can either use a chain stitch as I have here, or a regular 2 or 3 needle coverstitch. If you have a sewing machine then you can choose a twin needle, long straight stitch or zig zag/stretch stitch of your choosing.
Next we move onto the armbands which are sewn in the same way as the neckband. First sew the short ends to form a loop, then fold wrong sides together and mark the seam and opposite point on the band with clips or pins.
The armbands are a little easier because more often than not you find the shoulder and underarm seams are opposite one another. I like to put the armband seam at the bottom of the armscye, for comfort and so you cannot see it when it is worn, then clip in place. Next clip the opposite end of the armband to the shoulder seam. Again, clip the armband to the armhole WITHOUT STRETCHING for 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam (again for a larger sized adult tank, I would not stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the rest of the armband into the armhole between the other clips. The idea behind this is that it should allow the armband to run flat over the shoulder seam, but then the added tension around the bottom of the armband will encourage it to flip up and sit snug against the side of the body at the bottom and sides.
Sew, using the full seam allowance, then press with steam and top stitch as before.
Finish the rest of your garment as usual, and you’re done.
I hope you found this tutorial helpful and don’t forget if you have any questions we have a large community on our Facebook page who are always happy to help.
The wait is over! I’m here to announce the two winners of our Cozy Wrap Sew Along so let’s get to it.
Thank you so much for joining me last week! I throughly enjoyed sewing the Cozy Wrap along side you. Big thank you to Judy for providing the Fabric 4 Pirates prizes too. If you haven’t checked out the subscription, do that here! It’s so fun!
Up next, the Mermaids are taking over the SAL group. See you back here in March!
Hello, fellow sewing friends! I’m super excited to talk to you today about color blocking. As long as I’ve been in the sewing world color blocking has always been really popular. A lot of patterns even include it! But what if your favorite p4p pattern doesn’t have any color blocking options? Well, today I’m going to teach how to easily do it yourself! If you aren’t familiar with color blocking, it’s basically just adding interesting unique blocks of different fabrics to your pattern without altering the fit. It’s a great way to spice up a regular t-shirt, use up some scraps, and make for some fun visual art. You can color block anything from sleeves, front bodice, back bodice, legs, hoods, if it has a pattern piece- you can color block it. Now, let’s get started!
First, you’ll want to pick your pattern and print out your chosen size. (If you are using a projector you can do it but I highly recommend printing whatever piece you want to color block. For my example, I color-blocked just the front bodice so I printed that and then used my projector to cut the rest of my pieces. ) Now if you plan on doing any “angled” color blocks and your pattern piece is on a fold- I recommend tracing the mirror image and attaching it to your piece so you have the “full piece”. I used The Basic tee for my son and chose to only block the front of the shirt.
Now the fun part- Choosing your color block! Honestly, you can really do anything so just start drawing! I use a straight edge to make sure my lines are nice and tidy (easier to sew that way). The only thing I would avoid is really complicated shapes or anything like a floating “v-point” that doesn’t reach an end (you can see my example below in the red no box). If you are new to this technique I’d start simple to get the hang of it and then you can expand from there. This is what I drew out and what will be the final “look” of my shirt.
Once you’ve drawn your color-blocked lines you’ll want to cut them all out and these are your new pieces. Decide which fabric you want for what piece and it’s time to start cutting.
Now here’s the most important part- You’ll need to add seam allowance to those pieces. You can choose whatever amount but I usually go with 1/4 inch. Now you can either do this by laying your new pieces on a piece of paper and adding it to that piece so it becomes part of your pattern piece.
Or what I do is simply use my quilting ruler while cutting to add it to my piece. So for the cut part of my piece that needs seam allowance, I just line my quilting ruler 1/4 over my cut paper line and then use my rotary blade to cut that line instead of my paper line.
Make sure you add seam allowance to every place that you cut out a color block line on your pattern piece.
Now it’s time to sew! If you decided to do any intersecting lines like this one I did. You’ll want to sew those pieces together first. So line up your piece edges right sides together and sew with the seam allowance you chose. You’ll then want to topstitch your seam allowance down.
(Tip- if you are using a coverstitch I like to do a reverse coverstitch on the seam allowances with a fun color to add some extra “pop” to my color blocking).
Now repeat this with your other pieces until they all come back together. It should finish at the same size as your initial pattern piece before you added color blocking.
Finally, you can sew your garment together as recommended by the pattern. The only difference is you have a cool color-blocked piece instead of a plain piece!
Yay! All done!! Can’t wait to see what you all create!
We did it! We made it to the last day of the sew long. Today we create the waist tie and show off our Cozy Wraps.
You should have 4 pieces left in your pile. You’ll be creating the “main” and “lining” of the waist tie by stitching two short ends right sides together. You only have two long pieces now that you are stitching wright sides together, along all 4 raw edges. Don’t forget to leave a 2-3 inch opening to be able to turn the tie right side out. Top stitch all around, or be lazy like me and just close the opening.
Give your tie a good steam press to reduce any waviness. Slide the ends of the tie through the tie openings of the side seams from the inside out. You can see this process in today’s video linked below.
What an amazing job you did this past week! I’m so proud of you all! Here is my finished tunic Cozy Wrap, I absolutely love it! Don’t forget to post a picture of your finished project in the comments of day 6 photo of the Cozy Wrap SAL album. We will choose the winners from that thread!
From brrrrrr to ummmm! This cold days, stay nice and warm with the newest P4P pattern, the Sweater Weather! Our blog contributors team has put together some quick and easy hacks to give you even more options to the pattern. Dana is showing you how to make a wonderful Sweater Weather dress, Jody ditches the side seams for a classic banded look and I took the sweater from winter to summer. Let’s get started!
I live in sweater dresses in the winter months because it gets cold in the UK. I couldn’t resist doing a little hack to the new Sweater Weather length to recreate a Pinspiration I’ve had on my to-do list for a while.
I measured the front pattern piece and then held the tape measure up to myself to decide how much length I wanted to add. I decided to go with 6 inches extra added to the tunic length, which is a little more that I would normally add but there is a hi-low cutline, and so I wanted to make sure the front would be long enough for decency.
I use a projector these days and it was as simple as adding 6 inches extra length to the bottom of the front and back bodice pattern pieces, which I did on the fly with my perspex quilting ruler and rotary cutter.
However I also printed out the pattern piece so you could see how it would work on paper too. The pink paper is the added section. I then decided to mark the notch for my side slit 2 inches up from the bottom edge of the pattern, but this would be up to you. I chase a 7 year old and a puppy around all day so I didn’t want that side split going too high, but you could go with whichever height you choose. Then repeat for your back piece.
The only other change I made was to copy the bishop sleeve look from my inspiration pic, and I did that by just cutting the bell sleeve width to the slim cuffed sleeve length. Projector and paper pattern piece pictures below:
Then I cheekily used my overlocker/serger to gather the bottom of the sleeve by increasing my stitch length and differential feed to their highest setting and whipping round the bottom of the sleeve piece, which gathered it in just enough to fit the cuff. Perfect!
Finally just construct the rest of the garment as per the instructions in the tutorial, and you’re done!
No side split
Hey everyone! I have another super quick hack for you. As fun as that side split is that comes in the pattern, I was wanting a most basic top, so I decided to do without the side split for this! It’s as simple as adding a bit of length to the front bodice piece, and sewing the two waistband pieces together in a circle! I’ll break it down for you below.
First, you’ll need to make your front and back bodice pieces the same length. I chose to do Top length for this one, and the front bodice piece was about a little over an inch shorter than the back. Since I also use my projector and don’t print out the pattern pieces, I marked the new Top cut line digitally on my PDF file on my computer. In order to figure out how much length to add, I measured from the Split Marking on the side seam down to the Top cut line on the BACK bodice piece. For my size, that distance measured 2.65 inches.
I then measured down from the Split Marking on the side seam of the FRONT bodice piece and marked where the new Top cut line should be. (Doing this with Paper pattern pieces, you would simply lay the back bodice piece over the front piece and see how much extra to add to the bottom of the front!)
This is what the new digitally measured cut line looks like when projected.
Once I cut my bodice pieces (following the newly marked cut line for the front bodice!) You can see that my front and back bodices are the same length now!
Next, you can sew up your shoulder seams, add the sleeves, and then sew your side seams. When sewing the side seams, instead of stopping your stitches at the split marking like you would have to do if you were making the side split, you can just keep on keeping on and sew right on down to the bottom! Like so:
Lastly, you’ll need to create and attach your waistband. Take your two waistband pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch them together along the short ends.
Now fold the waistband circle wrong sides together aligning the raw edges. You can now slip the waistband on the bottom of the sweater, aligning raw edges, and sew in place.
Now you have a comfy sweater without the extra side split!
Last but certainly not least I wanted to show you how easy it is to take the Sweater Weather from chilly months to hot summer days. It’s as simple as using lighter fabric and making it short sleeves. For my example, I used custom bamboo spandex (my favorite fabric base!). There are not many modifications you need to do to get the look. Simply skip cutting the sleeves and sleeve cuffs when you gather your pieces.
Sew the shoulder seems and instructed. Press the sleeve opening 1/2″, wrong sides together as shown below. This will create a memory hem.
Sew the shirt side seams. Using your favorite stretch stitch (I used my coverstitch) hem the sleeves 1/2″. Press again for a crisp look.
Tadah! Easiest hack ever! Continue sewing your Sweater Weather top as per the tutorial.
ALTERNATIVE HACK: If you prefer a longer short sleeve, you can band it instead of hemming it. Before sewing the side seams, measure the opening. Cut two bands 4″ tall by the measurement you just did. Sew each band in a loop (at the short ends) using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press length wise, wrong sides together. Sew the shirt side seams. Attach the cuffs to the sleeve opening, matching the side seam. Press and optionally top stitch the seam allowance towards the sleeve. There you have it! A cuffed short sleeve.
How adorable is Teri? She tested the Sweater Weather top and made herself a tie die short sleeve one too.