Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 7

What a splashing fabulous week! Thank you so much for joining me in the Sunflower Swim Top sew along. We loved seeing you get ready for a P4P summer. It is time to announce the two winners, so without further ado….

Congratulations Melissa Powell! As our first winner, Melissa will receive a $20 Patterns for Pirates gift card and a $50 Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics one. I can’t wait to see those smiling faces sporting some OSP/P4P creations!

 

Jenny Sherman Richards  is our second prize winner. She won a $20 gift card to Made for Mermaids and a $25 Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics one.

A big THANK YOU to Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics, our Sew Along sponsor, who also provided the swim fabrics for the videos.

 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 6

Hello, pirates! We have made it to the last day of our sew along. Today we add the optional ruffle, hem the bottom and finish the back loops. 

If you are not adding the ruffle, sew the elastic along the bottom (just like we did yesterday) with an stretch stitch. Fold 3/8” and hem. If you are adding the ruffle, start by gathering the strip of swim. For the closed back style, the ruffle will be one loop, for the open back it will a straight piece. 

Remember to stitch the ruffle 3/4” away from the ends of the swim top bottom. You will add the elastic after you sew the ruffle on. If you opted for the closed back you have finished. For the open back, you need to fold each of the loops 3/4” towards the lining and stitch down. Thread the straps through the loops and tie knots at the end. 

That’s it! You finished your beautiful swim tops! I whipped up a pair of coordinating Busy Bee swim bottoms to go with my Sunflower top. I absolutely love my Minnie Mouse inspired swimsuit. 

Here is the last sew along video. Once you finish your Sunflower post a picture of your completed swim top in then comments of day 6 sew along album. Feel free to share your creations all over Facebook but don’t skip adding it to the day 6 check in photo, that’s where the the P4P team will pick the winners. We will announce them here on the blog on Tuesday. 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 5

Welcome to day 5 of our Sunflower Swim Top sew along. I reserved today to adding all elastics to the neckline, armcyce and back curves. Another easy day but a very important one. Do not skip sewing elastic in the seams of your swimsuits!

If you are sewing the closed back style, you will have a two elastics to sew, one in the neckline and another one in the armscye and along the top of the back. If you are creating the open back top you should have 1 elastic for then neckline, 2 form the armscye and 4 for the back C curves.

You should stitch the swim elastic along the wrong side of the main print with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine or your serger. Remember to disengage the serger blade! The elastic and edges it goes on should be then same length, no stretching needed. 

In today’s video I show you how I add the elastic to the open back Sunflower top. Once you finish your steps, snap a picture of your progress and add it to the comments of day 5 photo of the sew along album. Tomorrow we add the optional ruffle and finish then swim top. See you back here!

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 4

Ahoy, matey! Welcome to the mid day of our Sunflower sew along. Today is the fastest sewing day so it makes a good opportunity to catch up on past days, start a second swim top or join us if you still haven’t started. 

First off we need to baste or pin in place the front straps. If you are sewing the halter top, you’ll pin the straps 1.25″ away from each side. If you did the scoop neckline (like me) then you are centering the straps in the pick ups. Once the front straps are basted in place, stitch the back side too. You are only sewing in the back straps for the closed back style. 

Place your lining and your main right sides together making sure that the straps are out of the way. Stitch along the top ONLY for now. For the closed back option, you are all done. If you are creating the open back then you will also need to stitch around the 4 “C” curves at the back.

You can see in day 4 video below how I attach the lining to my scoop neck, open back Sunflower swim top. Once you finish today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of the Sunflower Sew Along album. See you back here tomorrow! 

 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 3

Hello, pirates! On day 3 we create the straps and sew the side seams. The Sunflower Swim top includes a full back and an open back option. The covered back straps are much shorter than the open back ones.

One of the most important tips I have for you for today is to not skip the elastic in the straps, regardless of which style swim top you chose. The straps are pretty much holding the rest of the suit in place. That, and the fact that swim fabric tends to “relax” in the water makes the straps elastic mandatory. 

You can serge the elastic to the wrong side of the straps as Judy has in her videos or you can zig zag it on, as I did. Optionally, you can top stitch the straps along the center. Just make sure you use a stretch stitch or a chain stitch for that.

Last steps for today are sewing the side seams of the main and then of the lining. If you opted fro the open back style, your main and lining will be a flat piece. For the closed back style, once you sew the side seams you will have two “loops”. 

In today’s video you can see how I create the open back straps and sew the side seams. Keep in mind that if you are doing the closed back option, the Sunflower pattern does include videos for that option as well. Once you finish today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of this Sew Along album. 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 2

Good morning and welcome to day 2 of our Sunflower Swim top SEW ALONG. Today we create the shelf bra, with or without the removable cups layer. If you are adding the cup pockets you will have 4 pieces for the front (one main, one lining, one inner lining and one shelf bra). If you are making the youth Sunflower  you will not have the cups option so your front will have 3 layers (main, lining and shelf bra).

This swim top can be sewn entirely with your sewing machine. If you own a serger and a coverstitch machine, some steps can be done with them. In my years of me-made swimsuit sewing and wearing I have found that swimwear created with the sewing machine tends to last longer than serged one. So my personal goal for this sew along is to utilize a zig zag and a triple stretch stitch 100% off the time. If you know me, you know that I am a huge serger/coverstitch fan so this is a big step 😉.

Tip: if you do not have 3/4″ swim elastic for today’s steps, you can use 1″ knit elastic in a pinch. Do keep in mind that swim elastic is treated to withstand chlorine water, while knit elastic is not,   

You can see in today’s video how I added the shelf bra to the lining, including the cup pockets. Once you complete all steps, snap a photo of your front lining and posted in the comments of Day 1 photo of this sew along album. You can find the album in the M4M & P4P sew along group on Facebook. 

 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 1

Welcome to the Sunflower Swim Top Sew Along! 

Day One of the sew along is for purchasing the pattern and cutting the fabric. If you did not buy the patterns yet, stop by the Sew Along Facebook Group to find an exclusive coupon code. You can grab the adult Sunflower Top here. If you plan to sew for a little one,  the Youth Sunflower Swim Top  or the Bundle is what you need. If you are still undecided which style to make, our Round Up blog will give you an overview of all options included, plus a look at the Busy Bee swim bottoms. You can also use the Easy Hacks blog for added options. As a matter of fact, I will be making my SAL top inspired by Dana’s hack. 

Now that we have the patterns it’s time to select which method of using them you would like to do. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric. We also have an excellent P4P University that will give you the basics of using a projector instead of printing the pattern. I highly recommend reading it and watching the included video. 

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest and waist be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. P4P’s newest patterns come with videos throughout the tutorial, just click the link in the pattern to access them. 

For my Sunflower Swim Top I am using these cute Minnie Mouse inspired  Oh So Pretty swim knits. Oh So Pretty Custom Fabric is this sew along’s sponsor as well so our lucky winner will be receiving gift card to treat themself to their custom prints (must be a member in the OSP Facebook group to qualify). They stock solid swim fabric in retail as well. 

Judy made this very in depth video about various swim fabric, notions and how to accurately take your measurements to create the perfect custom swim suit. I highly encourage you to watch it:

TIP: write on your elastic where it will go (eg neckline elastic , armscye elastic, etc)

You can see day 1 video below. Once you cut all the fabric and elastics take a picture and post it in the comments of day 1 photo. This sew along album will be in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Facebook group. 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

P4P University- Facings

Today’s P4P University is all about facings. We will take a look at what facings are used for, how to draft your own, and where you can use them in your patterns. A facing is a way to finish the edge of a garment. Although you will often see tutorials for using a facing in necklines, they can be used in many other ways as well. Today we will look at both a simple neckline facing, an all-in-one facing, and how to use a hem facing.

P4P University Facing Pic

**A video tutorial is available at the bottom of this blog post. **

WHEN TO USE A FACING

You can use a facing when sewing a pattern to finish any garment edges (necklines, sleeveless armholes, hems, and more). While they are more common in woven garments, you can also attach a simple facing to a knit garment if you are looking to replace the neckline binding or band. Let’s see how we can draft and use a simple neckline facing on the P4P Brunch Blouse Pattern.

Neckline Facing

NECKLINE FACING

You will need the paper pattern, tracing paper, pencil, ruler

Begin by measuring 2 inches down all around the neckline of the paper pattern and placing marks. Draw a curved line to connect your markings. Trace this line, as well as the original neckline, onto your piece of tracing paper. This will now be your facing pattern piece. Repeat for the pattern back. **The Brunch Blouse uses a center back seam. To remove this in your facing, cut off 1/2 inch from the center back line on your pattern piece. Then cut the fabric on the fold at the new center back line.**

Neckline Facing Draft

 

Cut your pattern pieces and facing pieces from your fabric. Make sure you are cutting your facing pieces on the fold as you would your front and back bodice pieces. Apply interfacing to the back of your facing pieces. You can leave off interfacing if you would prefer as I did in this knit pajama top.  Make sure you use knit interfacing if applying to a knit garment.

Neckline Facing Construction

 

Sew the shoulder seams for your front and back bodice as well as the front and back facings. Press the seams open. Finish the outside edge of your facing with your serger, an overlock stitch on your machine, or your preferred finish. Place the bodice right sides out and mark the quarter points with pins. Repeat with your facing. Match your facing and bodice, right sides together at pins. Stitch together at 1/4 inch using a long stretch stitch for knit garments. **Note this will finish the neckline at 1/4 inch lower than if you were to use a band. If you do not want a deeper neckline, make sure you add the additional 1/4 inch to the neckline during the tracing stage**

Press the seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch. (See this tutorial for help with understitching) Fold the facing to the inside of the garment and press well. You can now topstitch along the facing edge or simply tack the facing down at the shoulder seams for a cleaner finish.

all in one facing title

 

ALL IN ONE FACING

An all-in-one facing is a great way to create a clean finish on your sleeveless tops. This will create a finished edge on both the neckline and armholes using one piece. Here is how you can create this facing using the P4P Brunch Blouse.

Begin by marking two inches down from the underarm seam and make a mark on your pattern. Continue marking two inches down around the arm and neckline edges, creating a soft curve to bridge the two areas. See the pictures below for how I marked both the front and back bodices. Trace this new facing piece onto tracing paper using your marks and the original pattern lines at the shoulder, neck, and arms.

All in one facing tutorial

Cut your pattern pieces as well as facing pieces from your fabric. Cut your facing pieces from interfacing as well. Sew your bodice together at the shoulders only and center back if you are using the Brunch Blouse. For this facing technique, we will be using our interfacing to create the clean finished edge– the steps will look slightly different from the neckline facing tutorial above. Feel free to use either method on your facings.

All in one facing

 

Sew only the shoulder seams on BOTH the facing pieces and the interfacing pieces- DO NOT FUSE the interfacing yet. Next, sew the interfacing to the facing, right sides together, along the outside curved edges using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip the seam allowances around the curves. Finally, turn the interfacing and facing, right sides out. Your fusible side should now be facing the wrong side of the facing. Carefully align the pieces and press well. This will now give you a clean, finished edge along your facing without having to use your serger or machine.

 

All in one facing

 

 

Next, lay the bodice right sides out, flat on the table. Lay the facing on top, right sides together. Match all seams and pin around the neckline. Stitch with 1/4 inch seam allowance, then clip and grade seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards facing and understitch at the neckline. Once the neckline is done, turn the garment right side out and lay flat. Roll one side of the bodice in a tight roll towards the opposite shoulder seam. Wrap shoulder seam fabric around the rolled fabric, pinning right sides together. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam, being careful to not catch rolled fabric while stitching. Carefully pull the fabric through the opening and understitch as far as possible on each side of the armhole. Then repeat on the opposite side.

 

All in one facing

 

Fold facing up away from the underarm, match seams and stitch the side seams per the pattern. Trim away any bulk and fold seam allowance back down. Tack at underarm. Repeat on other side. The all-in-one facing is now complete. Finish the top per the pattern instructions.

 

HEM FACING

The final type of facing I will show today is the hem facing. This simple finish is helpful when creating a curved hem like the Brunch Blouse.

To create the hem facing pattern pieces, take your front and back bodice pieces and mark 2 inches from the bottom edge working from side seam to center. Make sure to mark your fold line and trace your facing piece onto paper. Cut one front and back facing from fabric and interfacing. Fuse the interfacing to the back of the facing pieces. Sew the side seams of your facing and finish the narrow side of the facing. (Make sure you are finishing the top of your pattern piece and not the bottom edge. Otherwise, your piece will not fit inside your garment without bunching.)

Hem Facing Tutorial

Complete your top per the instructions until the bottom hem. Lay your facing and top, right sides together and sew the raw edges together at 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards facing. Understitch. Press the facing towards the wrong side of the top. Finish with your preferred stitching. You can edgestitch the facing or handstitch a blind hem.

Hem Facing

 

This video will show you how to create the facings discussed in this blog post for those who prefer to learn that way.

Thank you for joining me today to learn all about facings. You can find more sewing tips and tricks on the P4P University blog posts.

Shannon 

 

 

P4P University – Interfacing for Garment Sewing

 

The correct use of interfacing is one of the main things that takes your garment sewing to the next level.  Today we will be talking about different types of interfacing, why you might want to use it and how to correctly apply it.

 

The first thing we need to clarify is the difference between stabiliser and interfacing.  Getting these two confused is easy to do, and people can often buy the wrong one for their needs, but their uses are quite different.

STABILISER

Stabiliser is a type of textile used to add extra weight to a particular part of a piece of fabric, usually so some sort of decorative work can be added to that section.  For example, you might add stabiliser to the wrong side of the front of a pair of children’s pyjamas to add some embroidery or applique to the bodice.  The stabiliser helps keep the fabric from distorting when adding the decoration to it.  It can be left on, trimmed down or torn off after use, depending on it’s type.  The picture below shows some embroidery on the reverse of a pair of pyjamas.  You can see the tear-away stabiliser still sitting between the A and the Y, after the rest has been removed.

INTERFACING

Interfacing is a type of textile used on the wrong side of a fabric to make that particular area stronger/more weighty.  For example it is often used in shirt collars to help them stand upright.  The interfacing gives the fabric more rigidity and is not removed, it is permanently attached. 

 

There are two types of interfacing, differentiated by the way you attach them to your fabric.  ‘Sew In’ interfacing is sewn onto the wrong side of your main fabric, within the seam allowance so it is not visible when the garment is finished.  Alternatively it can be quilted on in a particular pattern of your choice, so that it is visible when completed.  It seems to be less popular these days, but is the traditional, couture interfacing.

More popular is ‘Fusible’ interfacing.  This is the same as ‘Sew In’ but it has a layer of heat activated adhesive on the wrong side, which means it can be ironed directly onto the wrong side of your main fabric and adheres permanently.  The instructions for ironing will either be printed on the selvedge, if you have bought it by the metre, or they will be on the packet if you have bought it bagged.  It is important that you ensure the interfacing is fully adhered before sewing the garment together because otherwise it can start to peel off and look messy. This picture below shows an example of an iron-on interfacing attached to the wrong side of a piece of cotton.

 

Interfacing comes in many different weights, from a light weight interfacing used to add a little extra body to the facing on a silk blouse, to a very heavy weight interfacing used to reinforce the brim of a cap/hat.  I used a medium weight interfacing along the placket of my So Classic Sundress to give added support for the poppers and stop it distorting with wear.

Pattern instructions will advise you which weight of interfacing you will need, so that you can ensure you purchase the type needed to get the finish shown in the pattern listing pictures. For example, the Timeless Tunic notions require a lightweight interfacing for adding body to the neckline facing to help it keep the correct shape.

You will also find interfacing used in woven patterns to add body/structure/strength to shoulder seams, around pocket openings, along plackets, in collars, and even over entire bodice and sleeve pieces in jackets and coats.

KNIT/STRETCH INTERFACING

As well as woven interfacing, you can also find knit/stretch interfacing used for adding greater structure or strength to knit fabrics.  It can be used to stop these fabrics from stretching out too far, for example it is often used around pockets in a knit dress, so that the dress doesn’t become misshapen with use.  I like to use it to add greater structure to the front of my Go To Jacket before sewing on the zipper, as it helps stop the fabric stretching out when attaching the non-stretch zipper to the stretch fabric.

 

In this video I discuss a few different types of interfacing and show how they are adhered to fabric.  Sometimes seeing the fabrics being handled can give you a much clearer idea of what they would be like to use in real life.

Whichever type or weight of interfacing you need, the pattern you are using will give you details of what you need and when you need to use it.

 

Now that you know more about how to use interfacing, why not take a look at one of these patterns above or the Timeless Tunic or Tiny Timeless and put your new found skills to use.

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

 

 

 

 

 

 

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