Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Kelli Dress Hacks

Straight Cut Skirt

I absolutely had to make this dress as soon as I saw Judy’s first sketches for the pattern. I love the cinched in waist and wrap over top and skirt, it’s just my kind of look. Sometimes it’s nice to have a little more coverage on a skirt, though, and I knew I wanted to try a really simple little hack to straighten the bottom edge of the underskirt piece, for a faux wrapover look.

The option is included for the full length skirt pieces, so it was the easiest hack to do and got me just the look I wanted for me.

The rest of the pattern is cut out as normal, the only piece we will be adjusting is the underskirt piece (the un-ruched skirt piece).

I was making the knee length, so I simply measured from the top of the skirt down to the knee length cut line on the right of the skirt pattern piece.  Then I took that measurement (for me making the plus 2X size it was 25 3/4″), and used it to measure down the same length on the left side, using the full length skirt piece as a guide.

I am projecting onto tracing paper here to make it easier for you to see, as my fabric was a bit busy!

Then just draw a straight line across the bottom of the pattern piece to create your new straight hem skirt piece.

If you are using a projector, like me, you can also bring up the handy measurement grid included with the file for calibration, and use that as a guide for drawing a nice straight line across the pattern piece.

 

As I said, this is the only pattern piece that needs adjusting.  Then just sew up your dress as per the tutorial for the pattern, until you get to the instructions for the skirt pieces.

Follow the instructions for the floor length skirt pieces and hem the bottom of the ruched skirt piece, then gather the side as per the tutorial.  Next construct the back skirt and then hem both the back and un-ruched skirt pieces (the piece we adjusted) separately.

Finally, lay the un-ruched skirt piece facing up.  Then lay the ruched skirt piece facing up on top of it. Baste them together along the top and sides, making sure the hems line up nicely with one another.  Here is a picture of the ruched skirt piece laying on top of the un-ruched skirt piece prior to basting.

Lastly, you will want to lay your back skirt piece, right side facing down on top of the two front skirt pieces.  Here pictured below with the bottom corner flipped up so you can more easily see the layers.

Sew the side seams, taking care to make sure the hems all line up together nicely.  Basting the first inch of each side seam at the hemline can help with that.

Flip the skirt through right sides out, and finish the construction of the waist seam as the tutorial instructs and you’re done!

Nice and quick and easy.  I hope you love your new straight hem skirt as much as I do mine (which is quite a lot!)

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana xxx

 

Side Seam Splits for Floor Length with No Slit

If you feel like you need a little more stride/walking room in the floor length with no split you can easily add a side split (or apply this same method to the back seam for a back slit).

Simply stop stitching the side seams of the skirt where you would like the slits to go to.  Press remaining 1/2″ seam allowance not sewn to wrong side and hem.

It’s that’s simple! Now enjoy your extra walking room in your floor length dress!

 

 

Sweater Weather – easy hacks

 

From brrrrrr to ummmm! This cold days, stay nice and warm with the newest P4P pattern, the Sweater Weather! Our blog contributors team has put together some quick and easy hacks to give you even more options to the pattern. Dana is showing you how to make a wonderful Sweater Weather dress, Jody ditches the side seams for a classic banded look and I took the sweater from winter to summer. Let’s get started! 

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Dress

I live in sweater dresses in the winter months because it gets cold in the UK.  I couldn’t resist doing a little hack to the new Sweater Weather length to recreate a Pinspiration I’ve had on my to-do list for a while.

I measured the front pattern piece and then held the tape measure up to myself to decide how much length I wanted to add.  I decided to go with 6 inches extra added to the tunic length, which is a little more that I would normally add but there is a hi-low cutline, and so I wanted to make sure the front would be long enough for decency. 


I use a projector these days and it was as simple as adding 6 inches extra length to the bottom of the front and back bodice pattern pieces, which I did on the fly with my perspex quilting ruler and rotary cutter.

However I also printed out the pattern piece so you could see how it would work on paper too.  The pink paper is the added section. I then decided to mark the notch for my side slit 2 inches up from the bottom edge of the pattern, but this would be up to you.  I chase a 7 year old and a puppy around all day so I didn’t want that side split going too high, but you could go with whichever height you choose.  Then repeat for your back piece.

The only other change I made was to copy the bishop sleeve look from my inspiration pic, and I did that by just cutting the bell sleeve width to the slim cuffed sleeve length.  Projector and paper pattern piece pictures below:

Then I cheekily used my overlocker/serger to gather the bottom of the sleeve by increasing my stitch length and differential feed to their highest setting and whipping round the bottom of the sleeve piece, which gathered it in just enough to fit the cuff. Perfect!

Finally just construct the rest of the garment as per the instructions in the tutorial, and you’re done!

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

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No side split

Hey everyone! I have another super quick hack for you. As fun as that side split is that comes in the pattern, I was wanting a most basic top, so I decided to do without the side split for this! It’s as simple as adding a bit of length to the front bodice piece, and sewing the two waistband pieces together in a circle! I’ll break it down for you below.

First, you’ll need to make your front and back bodice pieces the same length. I chose to do Top length for this one, and the front bodice piece was about a little over an inch shorter than the back. Since I also use my projector and don’t print out the pattern pieces, I marked the new Top cut line digitally on my PDF file on my computer. In order to figure out how much length to add, I measured from the Split Marking on the side seam down to the Top cut line on the BACK bodice piece. For my size, that distance measured 2.65 inches.

I then measured down from the Split Marking on the side seam of the FRONT bodice piece and marked where the new Top cut line should be. (Doing this with Paper pattern pieces, you would simply lay the back bodice piece over the front piece and see how much extra to add to the bottom of the front!)

This is what the new digitally measured cut line looks like when projected.

Once I cut my bodice pieces (following the newly marked cut line for the front bodice!) You can see that my front and back bodices are the same length now!

Next, you can sew up your shoulder seams, add the sleeves, and then sew your side seams. When sewing the side seams, instead of stopping your stitches at the split marking like you would have to do if you were making the side split, you can just keep on keeping on and sew right on down to the bottom! Like so:

Lastly, you’ll need to create and attach your waistband. Take your two waistband pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch them together along the short ends.

Now fold the waistband circle wrong sides together aligning the raw edges.  You can now slip the waistband on the bottom of the sweater, aligning raw edges, and sew in place.

Now you have a comfy sweater without the extra side split!

Happy Sewing!

-Jody

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Short sleeves

Last but certainly not least I wanted to show you how easy it is to take the Sweater Weather from chilly months to hot summer days. It’s as simple as using lighter fabric and making it short sleeves. For my example, I used custom bamboo spandex (my favorite fabric base!). There are not many modifications you need to do to get the look. Simply skip cutting the sleeves and sleeve cuffs when you gather your pieces. 

Sew the shoulder seems and instructed. Press the sleeve opening 1/2″, wrong sides together as shown below. This will create a memory hem. 

Sew the shirt side seams. Using your favorite stretch stitch (I used my coverstitch) hem the sleeves 1/2″. Press again for a crisp look. 

Tadah! Easiest hack ever! Continue sewing your Sweater Weather top as per the tutorial. 

ALTERNATIVE HACK: If you prefer a longer short sleeve, you can band it instead of hemming it. Before sewing the side seams, measure the opening. Cut two bands 4″ tall by the measurement you just did. Sew each band in a loop (at the short ends) using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press length wise, wrong sides together. Sew the shirt side seams. Attach the cuffs to the sleeve opening, matching the side seam. Press and optionally top stitch the seam allowance towards the sleeve. There you have it! A cuffed short sleeve. 

How adorable is Teri? She tested the Sweater Weather top and made herself a tie die short sleeve one too.

How fun and easy were these? We can’t wait to see your take on these hacks. Share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates FB group or on any social media platforms you use! 

Oversized Sweater :: Easy Hacks

It’s here! It’s here! The comfiest, snuggliest, coziest sweater you will ever have. The Oversized Sweater includes so many options for both youth and adult but we couldn’t help ourselves…we wanted more! The P4P blog team is showing you how to make an Off the shoulder sweater, a mini dress, a color blocked one, the cutest pom poms hack ever and a higher side slit one. Enjoy!

 

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Off the shoulder

Off-the-shoulder shirts are my jam. I still remember falling all the way in love with the first one I saw Alex do for the Relaxed Raglan. This Oversized Sweater is the PERFECT top to hack into your favorite Pinteresty slouchy off-the-shoulder sweater. And it’s pretty easy! Grab your fabric and pattern pieces–let’s get started!

Layer your front, back and sleeve pieces on top of each other.

Measure down 1/2 inch.

Draw a line. This is going to be your new cut line.

Cut out your pieces.

**Tip: Place a clip on the front of the sweater to differentiate your pieces.

Sew your sleeves on first. They aren’t going to be sewn all the way up so remember that. You’re going to sew them on similarly to how raglan sleeves are done. They’ll look like this:

Once the sleeves have been attached to both the front and back pieces, it’ll look like this.

Cut a neckband 3 inches in width by 85% of your measurement of your shoulders (with shoulders down, measure around your body). Add the neckband.

Finish assembly as instructed in the tutorial and then rock the hell out of it!

I’m wearing a hachi sweater knit in a straight P1 with a curved hem.

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Mini dress

Next up, we have a mini dress hack. I love anything that I can wear that’s comfy, but that’s also really sexy, and this mini dress hack fits the bill perfectly.

For this version, we’ll be using the high-low hem option of the sweater.  Because the bottom of both the front and back pieces of the bodice are straight, it’s very easy to simply add length to the bottom of these to lengthen your sweater into a dress. How much length you add to the bottom of your pattern pieces is completely up to you, but I found that 4 inches was perfect for the “mini” look I was going for.

When cutting out both the front and back pieces of your sweater, simply add 4 inches to the length at the bottom of each. Please note that the high-low bands were not changed at all for this hack; only the length of the main body pieces have been altered.

Cut and sew together the rest of the sweater as described in the tutorial, and voila! You now have a cute and very trendy mini dress, ready to go!

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Poms

If you’re anything like me you might have an addiction to Faux Fur Poms especially on the littles! They are just so cute! I’m going to show you a quick and easy way to substitute the ears for Poms! You’ll sew your hood together exactly the same as all of the instructions but before sewing the hood I recommend marking your ear placements slightly past the seam allowance in a washable pen that way you know where to place your poms. Then I highly recommend adding interfacing where your poms will be for added durability especially if using a pom with snaps.

 

Now if you have a sew on pom you’ll sew it right along the markings you made for the ears. I recommend going directly through the seam allowance, once again for added durability.

 

If you are using a pom with snaps (which I recommend for washing purposes as well as pom changing fun!), push your seam allowance toward the back of the hood and attach your snap through your interfacing and the seam allowance.

and wallah! You are done and now have super cute pom ears!

 

Happy Sewing,

Michelle

 

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Colorblocked

I am all in anytime that I have a chance to sport some spirit gear for our local team (Go Grizzlies!). Awhile ago, I was doing some aimless browsing and came across a colorblocked sweatshirt that was absolutely perfect. Of course they didn’t have our team colors, but the oversized sweater was the perfect starting point to recreating this sporty look.

To begin, you will want to divide the front and back bodice pieces, as well as the sleeve, into the sections. For mine, I began with the front bodice piece. I measured 5″ down from the neckline and placed a vertical line. I then measured 6″ below that to create my second color block. The remaining section will be for my third color block.  For the back bodice, I lined up the bottom hemline of both front and back piece, and transferred my lines to this piece as well.

To create the colorblocked sleeve, I began by aligning to top of the sleeve with the front bodice neckline and again, transferring these lines.

Once the lines are drawn, you will then need to cut your pieces on these lines (you can also fold your pattern on each of these lines if you’d rather not cut your original). To cut the fabric, you will need to add an additional 1/2″ to each line you drew, both to the top and bottom colorblocked sections of this line, to account for the seam allowance.

Now that you’ve cut out your pieces (phew, wasn’t that fun?! haha), you will begin to reassemble the bodices and sleeves. With right sides together, match up each colorblock section and sew using a 1/2″ SA.

Once your pieces have been sewn together, you will then follow the original tutorial to construct your sweatshirt.  And just like that, you’re now ready to show off your favorite colors, prints, or school spirit all in one fun, colorblocked sweater!

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Higher side split

Let’s end this easy hacks series with a Pinterest inspired hack. One of the testers shared a picture of a high side slit oversized sweater and I knew I just have to have one. This is super easy look to achieve!

I chose to make the slit 5″ but that is just a mild suggestion. You can certainly make it bigger (or smaller) if you’d like. Mark 5″ up from the bottom raw edge on all 4 side seams. You can use pins, clips or a tailor chalk.

Sew the pattern as instructed in the tutorial but stop the at the 5″ mark. You may find this step easier to be done if you sew (at least the last few inches) with a sewing machine. Repeat the steps on the other side.

Press a 1/2″ hem on both sides of the side seam. Stitch the hem down with a zig zag stitch, twin needles or a coverstitch.

Continue adding the front and back bands ad in the tutorial. See that was super easy!

I did the hack on my turtleneck version but it would be super cute on all neckline.

Tip: If you would like to make the high side seam on the curved hem option you would have to sew the side seams the same way you do the high low option. 

 

Hope you enjoyed these as much as we loved making them for you. As always, don’t forget to show off your creations in the P4P Facebook group or Instagram (use #patternsforpirates) so we can ohhh and ahhh over them!

Hepburn Top and Dress – Easy Hacks

The Hepburn Top & Dress has released and it will surely become a staple in your year round wardrobe. Our amazing (and growing) team of blog contributors has some easy hacks for the new pattern. Take a look and get sewing!

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Swim top/rashguard

The fit of the Turtle Neck Dress is so fantastic that modifying it to be a a rashguard is very simple!

The first thing you need to do is decide which pattern options you would like to use and gather your supplies. Swap out your sweater knit for some swim knit, and your clear elastic for swim elastic.

Cut out your pattern pieces and neckline elastic according to the tutorial. For all options, you will continue on following the tutorial until it is time to hem.

If you choose to make a cropped swim top, like I am, you may want additional swim elastic for the bottom hem. This will help keep the hem from rising up while swimming. For this option, you will want to trim half an inch from the bottom of the front and back bodice pieces.

 

I simply wrapped the elastic around my waist and cut at a comfortable length. The elastic will be attached in the same way you attach the neckline elastic for the crew neck.

All other hemming options can follow the tutorial. Now you can enjoy your new swim top!


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Zipper Workout Bra

For this hack, we will be working with the crew neck, crop, tank option. In addition to the materials listed in the pattern, you will also need: 

  • Fabric for the lining
  • Zipper that is slightly longer than the shortened crop bodice (detailed below)
  • Wash away wonder-tape (our new BFF!)
  • FOE/knit binding
  • 1” elastic
  • Soft bra cups
  • (Optional Hook & Eye Closure)

1. Assemble Bodice and Lining

2. Attach Zipper with Wonder Tape!

Find the center of the front neckline, cut straight down from top to bottom.

Place a strip of wonder tape from top to bottom along the edge of one half of the bodice. Do the same for the coordinating lining piece, peel off the paper strip.

With right sides together, place zipper along the edge of bodice.

Next, peel off paper strip on lining and place wrong side of zipper along right side of lining.

Check to be sure zipper is placed correctly, gently finger press in place. (Clip in place if needed).

Stitch 1/4’’ away from the zipper from top to bottom.

Repeat with other side. Your fully lined zipper is now attached with just two lines of stitching!! Zip up zipper, add reinforcement stitches across the bottom of the zipper, and trim the extra zipper fabric from off the top and bottom.

Finish neckline with your favorite finish. I used FOE, but you could also do a knit binding. Just be sure to fold the ends under so the edges are finished.

3. Add Bottom Band

Cut a band with the following formula (adjust length as needed): Length = 3.5” by Width = (75% of Underbust Measurement) + 1”

*Optional* Hand sew hook and eye closure at top of zipper.

And you are done!!!

   

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Picot trim

Anyone else buy tons of picot elastic thinking you are going to make all the bras and underwear? Well picot elastic can easily be used for other items and is a great finish for a necklines as well!  This is a quick easy hack and all you need that is different from the original requirements is picot elastic!

We are only going to make very minimal changes.  My picot elastic was 1/4 inch so I did not bother trimming the neckline down at all.  We are going to cut the picot the same length as what the pattern calls for for the clear elastic.

 

Now press that top stitch cause pressing is the key to a really great finished product and finish the rest of your top as instructed.  You can also use this method for the armholes if you choose but sometimes picot can be scratchy, mine was super soft but I choose to just use it for the neckline.

 

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Lettuce hem

Next up we have the lettuce hem hack. This is an easy and fast way to finish your edges with a little added style!

First off, we need to trim the hem allowances at the neckline, sleeve edges, and bottoms of both front and back pieces of the pattern to account for not using a traditional hem on these edges.

Trim 3/8″ off of the neckline.

Trim 1/2″ from the sleeve edges.

And trim 1″ from the bottoms of both the front and back bodice pieces.

Now that we’ve got our pattern pieces properly modified, cut and sew up your top as usual, using the new trimmed pattern pieces.

Next, set up your serger for a rolled hemline. Consult your serger’s manual for exactly how to do this on your machine, but in a nutshell, you will use only one needle, narrow the stitch width, decrease the length and increase the lower looper tension.

Begin with the neckline of the shirt. Sew the neckline as if you were finishing with a rolled hem, but stretch the fabric firmly before and after the presser foot. The tighter you pull, the more waves your lettuce hem will have!

Repeat on the raw edges of both sleeves and bottom hemline.

And that’s it! Now you have a beautifully finished tee with cute lettuce hems.

 

 

Caitlin

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Higher side vents

 

Let give this dress a nice higher vent to add extra sexy to it!

 Here’s how I made this little hack.

I started with cutting the mid-length version and marking the vent line for the knee length.

I continue sewing up the dress according to the instructions. 

Here is a picture to show the different vent lines. I followed the directions for the vent except I used the knee length instead of the mid length marking. 

Hope you all love this hack!!

Andrea

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Skirt

Next up we have a super easy, fun skirt hack. Nicole paired her skirt with the Sporty Piko crop but you can certainly wear it withe the cropped Hepburn top. Start by deciding where you would like the skirt to hit. Nicole is wearing a high waist style so she cut the pattern 1″ front and back pieces above the waist line. Now grab a 1″ knit elastic piece and stretch it around your waist (or high hip, depending on your skirt preference). Cut the elastic based on your waist and comfort. Sew the side seams and hem the bottom of the skirt following the tutorial instruction.

Using your serger or a zig zag stitch attach the elastic to the waist.

That’s it! All you have left to do now is enjoy your new skirt.

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Hepburn / Boundless mash

My turn!! You know there’s nothing I like more than a good dress! So once I have sewn the dress included in the pattern I just had to try mashing it with the Boundless skirt. Here is what I did:

Cut the preferred Hepburn style (tank, sleeves, etc) CROP top. Now grab the Boundless pattern (or even the Sunshine) and cut the waist skirt (not the empire one).

Sew the Hepburn crop top as instructed in the tutorial. Now grab some 1/4″ elastic and measure the opening of the bottom hem. Cut the elastic the same size as the measurement you just took and sew it in a loop.

All you have to do now is attach the skirt to the Hepburn top following the Boundless (or Sunshine) tutorial. Boom! One top…so many new possibilities!

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Hepburn / Sweetheart or Me Hearties mash

 

We could not end this hacks series without showing you how beautiful a Hepburn / Me Hearties (or Sweetheart) mash can be. Here is what how to get the look.

Judy has made he little star a 3/4″ sleeves, turtleneck crop top Hepburn and omitted hemming the bottom. Of course, you can choose any of the crop top styles included in the Hepburn pattern. Then she simply cut a Me Hearties circle skirt, sewed the side seams and hemmed the bottom.

All that left to do it attach the skirt to the top, following the Me Hearties instructions. Don’t forget the seam allowance is 1/2″.

Now tell me this cutie is not making you want to sew a Hepburn/Sweetheart mash for you too. I know that’s my next project!

Hope you enjoyed these easy hack as much as we enjoyed making them for you! Time to get sewing and remember to post your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group so we can all admire them.

Sporty Piko – easy hacks

Ahoy, matey! As with most of our new releases, the P4P blog team has some easy hacks ready for you to help achieve even more looks. First stop by the shop and grab the Sporty Piko and Youth Sporty Piko, then let’s get started.

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Solid Back

You might have noticed that both the Sporty Piko and the Youth SP feature a color blocked back to allow for multiple prints or color fabric to be showcased. Well, what if you want a solid back without the horizontal seam? Super easy hack!

Start by printing your preferred style. Now grab the two back pieces. At this point you can do one of two things- remove the 1/2″ seam allowance from each piece and tape together (shown in first picture). Shown in the second picture, you could also fold each piece up 1/2″ and butt the two pieces together, matching the FOLD line and the side seam and …boom! There you have your new back pattern piece.

 

Cut your pattern pieces and sew the shirt as per the tutorial. Simply skip the steps that show you how to sew the two back pieces.

Tadah! All done! One more option to add to the Sporty Piko styles.

My little man absolutely loves his new shirt but if you want to treat yourself to an adult Sporty Piko with a solid back, simply follow the same steps and enjoy!

 

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Elastic crop top

Maybe you want a cute crop but aren’t interested in fussing with the drawstring option?  I’ve got you covered!

Follow all of the instructions for the crop option, including the 1″ hem.

Top stitch around the entire folded edge, leaving around a 3″ opening to thread the elastic through.  (I like to position my opening on the back portion of my items, but it’s really a personal preference.

Using 3/4″ knit elastic, cut a length that is your waist measurement, minus 2″.

Feed the elastic through the opening.

Overlap the raw edges of the elastic, being careful not to twist it, by 1″.  Sew the overlapped pieces together, using a stretch stitch.

Close up the opening of the bottom hem, and enjoy your new crop!

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Banded crop top

Elastic… draw string… and now we’re bringing to you a third option to finish off your crop top versions- a banded option. This is a quick and easy way to finish off your top, especially for those of us who are opposed to the dreaded finishing hem! 🙂

To create this look, you will need to cut out all of your pieces needed for the cropped version, as well as a band (discussed later). Once you’ve cut out your pieces, you will want to trim 1″ off of both the front and back pieces (everything else will remain the same).

Assemble your shirt as per the pattern directions. Once you’ve completed your shirt, it is now time to attach the band. You will want to measure the total bottom hem of your shirt. To calculate the final width of your band, you will take your total measurement x 90%. Then add 1″ for the seam allowance. For the women’s version, I recommend a length of 4″ and for the youth, a length of 3-4″, depending on where you would like the finished length to be.

Using the instructions for the banded version in the tutorial, attach your bad. That’s it! Go off and enjoy that new shirt you’ve just finished up using one of our three finishing options.

~Erinn and Nicole

Now that you got your patterns and looked over our easy hacks, time to sew! Remember to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group so we can all admire them.

P4P nursing hacks

Ahoy, pirates! Throughout the years the P4P team has showed you lots of ways to hack our patterns and make them nursing friendly.  So today I wanted to put them all together in a round up blog. this way you have easy access to them at all times.

 

RELAXED’S RAGLAN Nursing Hack

Nicole is showing us how to modify the Relaxed Raglan (or the Ragdoll, or the Slim Fit Raglan) to make it nursing friendly. You can find the blog here.

 

HENLEY nursing hack

Next up we have a Henley modification that can certainly be applied to the Brunch Blouse as well. The blog can be found here.

 

FST/LMU MASH nursing hack

A lot of us are big fans of the FST/LMU mash so we couldn’t skip this mash in our nursing line up hack. You can find the details here.

 

LAYER ME UP nursing hack

Our Layer Me Up Shirt has a nursing hack on the blog as well. Judy is showing us here how to modify the shirt to achieve a nurse friendly look.

 

BOUNDLESS nursing hack

The Boundless Knit Dress nursing modification can be found here. The same technique can be applied to other dresses like the Sunshine or the Sweetheart dress.

 

BOHO BABYDOLL nursing hack

Our Boho Babydoll hacks includes a split side seam modification is that is great for nursing as well. You can read Erinn’s blog here.

 

CAREFREE CARDIGAN nursing hacks

Our cardigans are already nursing friendly but Judy took it up a notch with the Carefree Cardigan Button Hack. The blog can be found here.

 

 

ESSENTIAL TANK nursing hacks

Last but not least we have an Essential Tank hack that is nursing friendly too. Judy shows us here how to achieve an open back look for the ET.

 

All you have to do now bookmark this blog post so you have easy access to all our nursing hack and get sewing. 🙂

 

 

Palazzos Open Leg Hack

 

I’m so excited to bring you this fun summer hack!  These open leg pants are perfect for summertime, yoga, belly dancing, beachwear coverup, and really whatever you want them to be!   I’ll be taking you through two styles-   the overlap with a tie and the split seam with banding.  They can be mixed and match as well :).

Let’s talk about fabric,  drapey fabrics are a must for this so things like Bamboo Lycra, Rayon spandex, and Double Brushed Poly work great (although DBP is better for colder weather due to breathability).  I used Bamboo Lycra for both of my options.   I definitely recommend using a cheap muslin fabric first to make sure you get the fit you want before cutting into your nice fabric.

Now for the fun part!  Open up your Palazzo pattern and for sizing I chose to size up for a looser fit through the hips. Print your pattern and assemble as normal.

First,  you’ll need to take off some length – I took off about 3 inches.   It still left me with a lot of drape at the ankle.  It was perfect for the tie version but if you want less ankle drape you’ll need to take off more especially for the cuff version.

Next, you need to taper in your legs.  The amount you take in will also determine the look you want. If you want a thinner leg take them in even more. For the tie option, I marked in 1.5 inches on each side of the pattern piece for a size medium.   (If you are doing the cuff I’d recommend taking it in .5-1 inch more.)

Once you have your 1.5 inches marked on both pieces you’ll take a straight edge up to the shorts cut line to create a gradual grade ending there.  Now cut those off.

 

If you are doing the Cuff bottom stop here and move on to sewing.  If you are wanting the tie- you’ll need to create a tie extension on the outer leg seam.   Honestly I just kind of winged it.   The size shown here is smaller than the one in the photograph as those were a tad too long.   Here are the measurements and tie shape.  Make sure you do matching ties on both outer edge seam pieces.

 

Now cut out your fabric pieces!  For your waistband- I used the fold over yoga band and you’ll cut it at your normal size, not the upsized.

Sewing the Tie Overlap option-

The first thing you are going to do is hem the entire outside edge of the pants through the tie and along the bottom using a .25-.5 inch hem.   It’s a lot of hemming but worth it!   Do this on all four pieces.     Outside edge only- not the inner leg seam.

Next lay your front and back pattern pieces right sides together and sew up the inner leg seam as instructed in the original pattern.  Then sew the two pieces together along the crotch seam.

Now you are a going to put your pants on- I know it’s a little tricky as they are totally open but pull them up one side at a time.  You are going to take your front and back pieces at the top and overlap them to where you feel comfortable.  Mine overlapped about 4 inches.   Use some clips to clip it together and then baste the pieces together.  The red circled part is where you are overlapping.

Now cut the waistband from your regular size- (not your upsize) and sew it to your pants and you are done!   If you’d like a more modest leg you can tack your opening closed however low you’d like it.  Tie your bottoms up and you are ready for some summer fun!

 

Sewing the Cuff option-

First I’m going to have you clip your front and back inner leg seams RST together on one leg.

Now slip your pant leg on inside out- I know it’s a little weird as the side is totally open but at this point, you are going to figure out how big you want your slit to be.   Using clips- clip the top as far down as you’d like it and the bottom as far up as you’d like it.   Repeat on the other side.   It’s helpful if you have someone that can help you hold up the side.   You can also just guess if you want and clip on the floor.  Mine are about 8 inches from the top and 4 inches from the bottom. The photo below shows what you are clipping.

Then, using your sewing machine (you might want to baste first), sew your seam allowances together up to where you clipped on the bottom and top.    Feel free to try on again after basting to make sure this is the size you want your opening. Don’t forget to back and front stitch a few times to seal your seam.  Once you have your set opening you’ll press open your seam allowance and topstitch from the bottom all the way to the top as shown by the red lines below.    The second picture is what your finished outer leg will look like at the bottom and top.

Now go ahead and sew up your inner leg seams, crotch seams, and waistband.

Finally, for the cuff, you’ll take your bottom width of your pant and multiply it by .7.  Cut out two cuffs that are that length (going with the stretch of the fabric) by 4 inches tall.  If you’d like a different height feel free to use whatever.

Then you will serge on your cuff stretching as you go and leave a small 1.5-2inch opening.   Now using any elastic you’d like that will fit in the cuff, find a comfortable length around your ankle and cut two pieces.   Feed the elastic into your cuff opening using a safety pin and making sure to keep one end out.   Once you have both ends out and the elastic fed through,  overlap your elastic ends and stitch using a stretch stitch.  Push the elastic back into the cuff and finish your cuff seam.

Yay!! Now you have your finished pants!!

Thank you so much and I hope you enjoy these pants as much as I do! Don’t forget to show them off in the P4P Facebook group too!

May your sails and bobbin always be full,

Michelle

 

Boundless/Boho Babydoll Mash-Up

Since the original release of the Boundless Knit Dress, we have seen many requests how to make it a racer back tank dress.  With the recent release of the Boho Babydoll (which includes a racer back option), we thought it would be the perfect mashup. So, I’m here to show you how to mash and grade the two bodices to create a racer back Boundless Dress. This will also work with the Essential Tank if you prefer the shape of the racer on that tank.

 

The Boundless and Boho have different amounts of ease. (read more about ease HERE.)  The Boundless is a fitted bodice with negative ease, while the Boho is a relaxed cut top with ease so we can’t really just take the Boho and adjust the width to the boundless, otherwise the armscye would be too wide and cut in across the shoulder since the overall size of the bodice is wider/larger.  The Boundless is shown here in the green dashed  lines and the Boho is the light purple.

  1. Print out both the boundless knit dress and Boho babydoll bodices and align at the shoulder seam.  We will be creating a new Boundless bodice.  You can choose which neckline you prefer as the only modification we are making here is to the armscye.
  2. Trace the upper portion of the armscye from the shoulder seam of the Boho Babydoll. Trace the lower portion of the armscye of the Boundless toward the side seam.
  3. Using a French curve, blend the upper and lower portion of the armscye previously traced.
  4. Continue tracing the Boundless along the side seam and neckline. Note- if using a 1/2″ seam allowance, you will want to widen the shoulder by 1/4″.  You can also trace as is and just use a 1/4″ seam allowance along the shoulder seam only.
  5. You now have a new Boundless front racer Boundless bodice.

 

We will repeat similar steps for the back

  1. Print out both the boundless knit dress and Boho babydoll bodices and align at the shoulder seam.  We will be creating a new Boundless back bodice.
  2. Trace the Boho bodice from neckline, shoulder seam and top portion of the racer back armscye. Note- if using a 1/2″ seam allowance, you will want to widen the shoulder by 1/4″.  You can also trace as is and just use a 1/4″ seam allowance along the shoulder seam only.  
  3. Slide the Boho bodice so that it is aligned with the Boundless at the armscye and trace the lower portion of the racer back armscye to the side seam of the Boundless bodice.
  4. Use a French curve if need to match and blend the racer back curve and continue tracing the Boundless bodice.  You now have a new Boundless back bodice.

Construction of the bodice/dress is the same as the Boundless.  Cut 2 main and cut 2 lining pieces and use the burrito roll method to create a fully lined racer back.

I hope you love it as much as I do!

Boho Babydoll – Easy Hacks

 

As with all other P4P releases we couldn’t let the Boho Babydoll party start without some easy hacks that you can do for both the women and the girls tops/dresses.

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Waist Ties

The Boho Babydoll Dress and Shirt is a relaxed it at the waist so I wanted to start these hacks by showing you how easy it is to add some fun waist ties top it. Print and cut your pattern and fabric as you normally would and cut two tie pieces 2″ by 28-34″ depending on how long you want the ties to be. For reference my ties are 34″ because I like to be able to tie them around my waist too.

Mark a point on both the front and back bodice pieces that is 3/4″ up from the waist edge.

Fold the ties wrong side together, lengthwise and sew them with a 1/2″ seam allowance. You will be sewing one of the short ends too.

Using your favorite turning tool, turn the ties inside out and give them a good press.

Pin the ties on the front bodice at the marking point you did earlier. The bottom of the tie length will be at the 3/4″ mark. Repeat on the other side of the front of the bodice.

Optionally, you can baste the ties to the bodice before you sew the side seam.

Sew the bodice as instructed. That was easy!

You can wear your ties tied in the front…

….or tied in the back…

…or if you made them long enough you can wrap them around your waist.

 

…..

Split Sides

 

During the summers, I like to attend a lot of concert festivals. One trend that I have noticed are tank tops with flowy layers- sometimes it’s the back, other times the front, but one of my favorites is on the sides. The Boho Babydoll makes the perfect starting point to create a comfortable tank with a cute little peek-a-boo side. I can’t wait to try this out as a swim cover as well with some fun lace or mesh. You can use these simple steps below to help recreate this look.

Step 1: Cutting Pieces

Cut out your pieces as instructed, with the exception of the skirt. (You can use any of the bodice options.) The only change that I made to the skirt was to add an additional 1″ to the fold of the FRONT piece. I did not make any adjustments to the back skirt. 

Step 2: Bodice/Hemming

You will want to assemble your bodice as per the pattern instructions, up to the skirt. Once your bodice is finished, you will want to hem your two skirt pieces. I did remove a small piece from the corner of my skirts to help create a smoother hem.

Step 3: Attaching Skirt

Once you’ve hemmed the skirts, you will want to create your gathering stitches. Taking your front piece, place right sides together with the front bodice and front skirt. Begin to pull your gathering stitches and even them out. Using your side seam as a guide, overlap the edge of the skirt piece 1″ past the seam and pin. Repeat the overlap on the opposite side seam.

Repeat the same process with the back skirt, however align the edge of the skirt with the side seam. 

Attach skirt using a stretch stitch or serger and you’re all finished!

This hack is quick to complete and gives a fun detail to your shirt! Not only can this look be fun for everyday, but it can also be used for a swim cover and even a nursing friendly shirt! Enjoy and make sure to share your creations in our Facebook Group!
~Erinn

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Trim Accents

 

A little detail can go a long way.  The baby doll is perfect for adding lace trim details as it is not fitted through the waist so using a crochet trim or non-stretch trim is an option.  You can also add trim around the neckline and armholes but would recommend using a stretch lace as you still need to be able to pull the top over your head.  For my option, I used a pretty narrow trim so constructed my dress as usual and then topstitched it along the seam allowance.  If using a wider trim, you can baste it to the bodice prior to attaching the skirt.

 

Here is another example on a youth version.  Judy used a crochet, non-stretch trim and top-stitched it on after construction to the bodice seam and the hem of the ruffle (both places that wont miss the stretch since they’re looser parts of the garment.

 

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Waist Seam Ruffle

Last but certainly not least we wanted to show you a different way to sew the skirt to the bodice. This method will give your waist a ruffled look without adding any ruffles or changing the pattern pieces.

For this easy hack you will not be modifying the pattern pieces or adding any additional ones. Print the pattern and cut the fabric for your size.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk mark the 1/2″ seam allowance on the bottom of the bodice.

Tip: for an extra pop of color finish the top of the skirt with a rolled hem.

Gather the skirt using two rows of basting stitches as in the pattern tutorial. You will now be pinning the skirt to the bodice. The wrong side of the skirt will be pinned to the right side of the bodice, making sure you match the side seams and the center point.

Sew the skirt to the bodice with a zig zag stitch, a triple stretch stitch or your coverstitch. Go really slow so you can ensure a constant 1/2″ seam allowance.

Pull the basting stitches out. One should be above your zig zag stitch, one should be below.

That was all. Your new Boho shirt or dress has an extra cute waist seam now 🙂

 

LL – easy hacks

In true Pirate fashion we could not have let this double release go by without showing you some easy but fun hacks for the Little Loungers and Linen Loungers. Erinn will start you off with an adorable bias binding hack for the curved hem shorts.

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Bias Binding curved hem

Adding bias bindings to the hemline of the curved shorts is a quick and easy way to create an entirely different look. One of the things that I love most about this look is that it’s a great way to add a pop of contrasting or coordinating fabrics.

To create this look, cut out your pattern pieces as you would per the pattern. The only additional thing you will need are your bindings. For mine, I cut them 2″ wide by a length that was longer than the hemline. As you can see below, I used the curved pattern pieces and marked the top edge. I will connect my bias binding pieces up to this marking.

If you are attaching pockets, you can complete everything through these steps. Before sewing up the inseam and sides, you will want to complete your bindings along the curves. Place your shorts facing down and bias binding pieces face down and then gently ease them along the curves. You will want to pin/clip this in place. As you can see, my pieces are longer than the edges, but these will be trimmed later. Attach with a 1/2″ seam allowance, then clip into seam allowance along curve.

Once you’ve attached your binding, press binding piece and seam up. Press bias binding piece to align with top edge, then press again as you fold binding over (these are the same steps as were completed on pockets).  Edge stitch along folded edge and repeat on the other three hemlines.

Once you’ve attached all bias bindings, you will assembly your pattern as directed. When reaching the curved seam and inseam, you will want to make sure to use a straight stitch for the last few inches to create a cleaner finish (With wovens, it is advised to use a straight stitch first and then go back over with a serger if desired. If doing so, end your serged section a few inches before your straight stitch to help create that cleaner look). Trim any bias binding pieces that might be longer than your seam allowance.

 

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Cuffed capri pants

Next I will show you how easy it is to add  cuffs to the capri pants. The patterns include a cuff option for the short so we will use the same tutorial techniques. Start by printing the pattern in your desired size. I made a size 6 Little Loungers with patch pocket and elastic waistband.

There are two changes you will need to do to the original pattern. You must cut the capri length 1 inch shorter than the cut line for both the front and back pieces. We do that because we won’t be hemming anymore, we will be adding the cuffs. That brings me to the second change you’ll need to make. The cuffs in the pattern are drafted to fit 1:1 ratio to the shorts leg opening. The capri leg opening is smaller so we will need to shorten the width of the cuff. How much you shorten the width will vary for each size. The length of the cuff will remain the same.

Don’t forget to cut and attach the button tabs too! They add such a cute touch to the capris!

Sew the pants as per the tutorial. Easy peasy! Don’t be afraid to add some detail stitching to the button tabs or the pockets! I used my coverstitch to add a touch of blue but you can certainly use a twin needle or your preferred decorative stitches.

If you love the look of the cuff but prefer the bermuda length you can certainly apply the same principals and created a cuffed bermuda linen lounger or little lounger…the sky’s the limit! 🙂

 

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 Hemmed and lined shorts

We always like to mix up our finishing options to give you a wide variety that you can apply to any pattern so we went with a cuffed or curved hem facing for the shorts this time.  If you’ve been following P4P for awhile, you’ll notice Judy loves some short shorts 😉 but that may not be your  preference.  I’m going to show you how to lengthen your inseam and do a simple hemmed edge.  I also wanted to use this gorgeous embroidered lace so will give some insight on how to line them.

First, decide what you would like  your finished inseam length to be.  The current inseam finishes at 2.5″.  For my finished length I went with 3.5″.  Decide the length of your preferred hem (I did 1/2″) and add this to your desired inseam length.  Measure and transfer to your pattern.  Don’t forget all seam allowances are 1/2″ so your total inseam on the pattern should be 1/2″ longer.  Example for my 3.5″ finished inseam: 1/2″ seam allowance at the crotch curve + 3.5″ inseam length + .5″ hem allowance = 4.5″ total inseam.

Now that you have adjusted your inseam length we will make our hem gauge for the hem.  You’ll notice these outward notches on other cutlines (bermuda) as well as on sleeves hems.  It may look a little funny, but it actually serves a purpose.  Cutting the outward notch will allow the hem to lay flat once folded.  The angle of the gauge should be a mirror image of the seam just above it so that when its turned under it will lay flush.  Again, my hem allowance is 1/2″, if you choose to do a wider hem, you will want to extend your hem gauge to match the same length of your hem allowance.

 

Proceed to cut your pattern and construct as instructed in the tutorial.  To make a lined pair, cut every piece from both your main and lining fabric.  Lay your main fabric on top of your lining piece (right sides up) and construct as usual, treating them as one piece.

To hem, I serged both the main and lining fabric together to finish the edge . Then turned and top-stitched.  Easy right?

 

You can also line the shorts by treating your lining and main fabric as separate items.  So construct a main short and lining short then slip them inside one another and attach your waistband to both the lining and the main.  I chose to it the other way since I would be hemming them together anyway.

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Fully Enclosed Seams on Cuffed Shorts

When it comes to seams on my pants, I tend to gravitate toward wanting to enclose all of them.  It gives a nicer, neater look to your pant, and just feels more “handmade” than “homemade” to me.  The Loungers tutorial already tells you how to enclose the waistband on your pants, but what if you wanted to enclose the cuff hems too?

Here’s a quick rundown of how to make that happen:

  1. Prepare your cuff as the pattern states.  Right sides together, fold piece in half and stitch along unfolded edge.
  2. Working from the wrong side of the fabric, fold and press 1/2″ on one of the long edges of entire cuff piece.
  3. With right sides together, fold and press your cuff piece, leaving 1/2″ seam allowance at the top edge.
  4. Press, press, press.

5. With your pant leg piece right side up, place your cuff piece on top (pinning carefully and aligning all of your seams.  Stitch at a 1/2″ seam allowance.

6. Flip your fabric over so you’re looking at the wrong side of your pant leg.  Open up your cuff piece and press the raw edges away from the pant leg, toward your cuff.
7. Using those beautifully pressed lines that you created for yourself back in steps 2-4, fold your cuff piece so it encloses all of your raw edges.
8. Press and edge stitch.

You now have a beautifully enclosed hem on your pant leg!  Do a small happy dance, pat yourself on the back, and then repeat the steps for your other cuff.

(I didn’t have a chance to grab photos in my new shorts made from the tutorial yet, but I used that same method on the short pictured below and I LOVE them!  You will too!)

 

Use one of these hacks?  Be sure to hop on over to the Facebook Group and share your Linen and Little Loungers love. 🙂

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