Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

  • Home
  • Blog
    • Frequently Asked Questions
    • Pattern Releases
      • Free Patterns
    • P4P University
      • Fitting
      • Sewing with Stretch, Knit Fabrics
      • Sewing with Woven Fabrics
      • Sewing Machines
    • Sew-A-Longs
    • Fabric for Pirates
    • Pattern Hacks
    • Announcement
      • Blog Tours
      • Contest/Giveaway
  • Shop
  • Bundle Discounts
  • Flash Friday
  • Gift Cards
  • My Account
  • Cart

Raglan Colorblock Tutorial (Guest Post)

December 15, 2015

Today’s post is a fun one!
We are giving you all a special guest post from a Patterns for Pirates fan, who sewed up this adorable colorblocked version of the Women’s Raglan.  Ashley posted this on the P4P facebook group and we couldn’t help but want her to share it on here.

raglan-colorblock-tutorial-cover

Ashley’s tutorial is specifically for the women’s raglan, to achieve the look that she has masterfully come up with.  BUT, you can take information from this and colorblock anything with these techniques!  (For instance, P4P’s Katy shows you how to do a curved colorblock with the women’s henley on her blog HERE.)

Without further ado, take it away Ashley!

Front Colorblock

a. Start with the Front of the Raglan Pattern. Mine is cut for the Small size. I then take a sheet of wax pattern and unroll it until it’s just about the size of the pattern piece. Trace the existing pattern onto the wax paper and decide what length and neckline you would like. In this example, you’ll see the curved hem and a modified V Neck (see step 2 for instructions on doing the V-­‐Neck prior to going onto step b).

b. From the end of the arm hole measure 2.5 inches Draw a line straight across the pattern piece (shown as the green line in Figure 1). . Then measure ¼ of an inch down from that line and draw another line. ( Shown as the blue line on Figure 1. Here you are adding on ¼ seam allowance for when you add your stripe pieces).

c. Cut on the pattern on the 2 ¾ line (blue). Continue with cutting the rest of the pattern. Make sure you make all of the original marks like fold lines and notches so that you can line up the pattern correctly. I also label what each piece is so that I don’t get confused later on. d. FT = Front Top, FB= Front bottom.

V-­‐Neck adjustment

a. I personally don’t like a deep V-­‐neck. So what I did on the Front is where the flat part (small pink line) is on the top of the pattern, where the front scoop (green line) and the armhole meet, I extended it to the left, approximately 1/4inch. I then eye balled it where I wanted the V to end on the middle front of the shirt and drew a diagonal line from that point to beginning of the new flat part (long pink line).

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

Sleeve alterations

a. Start by taking the sleeve piece and unroll two pieces of wax paper. You’ll have to tape them together in order for it to be wide enough.

b. Trace the outline of the existing sleeve.

c. Measure 2.5 inches down from the left shoulder seam that will eventually meet the front seam ( green line). In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dots line on the original pattern.

d. Measure ¼ inch from the green line and draw a straight line across the pattern (blue line). Again here we are just adding a seam allowance. In my example it’s the short sleeve line for the red dot dash on the original pattern.

e. RT= Right Top

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

f. I then used the existing solid red short sleeve line for where I wanted my stripe to end. I drew a line across there (green) and also ¼ of an inch down from there (blue). The middle piece with the seam allowances added is equal to 2.5 inches wide, which when sewn, will give you an ending piece of 2 inches.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

g. Now that we have the top and bottom sections of the arm we need to do the middle part with the stripe. What I did to make things easier was draw lines across in the middle of the middle sections and shaded it in so that I could see how wide the stripe was going to end up being on the finished product. (See photo)

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

h. After I was happy with it I cut the pattern on the GREEN line of the RT and the BLUE line of the RB. Now here’s the tricky part. If you were to just cut out that piece you would end up with a middle piece that’s too small and therefore our sleeve length will be short. I took the RM in the wax paper and taped it onto two pieces of computer paper. I then measured ¼ inch on the top and ¼ inch from the bottom. I extended the lines out in order to make the total width of the RM 2.5 inches.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

i. For the stripe in the middle of RM I measured the shaded in part of it and then traced the measurements onto a piece of computer paper so that I had a hard copy and not just the wax paper.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

Cutting

a. Whew! The hard part is over. Now would be a good time to eat a donut or whatever your favorite snack is because you just made it through the hardest part of the hack (in my opinion.)

b. Now that you have all of your pieces you need to decide what color you want the top and bottom parts of the front. In my example the top is plaid and the bottom is black. I then took all the parts for plaid, FT, RT, RB, & stripe and made those into a pile. Then FB, RM, and Back in another pile for black.

c. When you lay out your pattern pieces make sure that if it needs to be on a fold, like the FT, FB, or back that you put it on a fold. For all of the sleeve pieces I just doubled up my fabric so that I end up with a Right and a Left once cut instead of mirroring (too much work).

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

d. I added about 1.5 inches to the bottom of RB also so that I could hem the sleeves. You do not need to add as much as I do it’s your preference. You can do anywhere from .5 inch to 1.5 here because we aren’t attaching cuffs.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

e. The only thing you need to remember with cutting FB is that you need to measure up ¼ inch in order to account for the seam allowance when you sew them together. All of my seam allowances are ¼ inch until you sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Those you would do your normal ½ inch.

f. You also want to cut out your RM pieces. Those do not require a fold.

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

g. Once you have everything cut out, keep the pattern pieces for the sleeves pinned so that it’s easier to put all the left and right pieces together.

Sewing machine/Serger time!!!

a. Time to put this shirt together. The first thing I always do is my hems, so that they are out of the way. You can do them however you want but I find it easiest to iron first, then use hem tape, and finish with a straight top stitch. I avoid zigzag stitches at all costs just because that’s the easiest way for me to tell between a store bought and homemade shirt. Personal preference only.

b. Now that the shirt hems and sleeve hems are finished let’s start with the easier pieces. Take TF and BF with right sides together and sew at the seam. Always remember rights to rights.

c. I serge everything when it comes to apparel so when that is finished I press the seam and top stitch so that it lays nicely when you wear it. This is optional.

d. Now it’s time to do the sleeves. I took a strip of Heat N’ Bond Lite (or Wonder Under) and with the wrong side of the stripe on the sticky side, iron on the Heat N’ Bond. Let cool and then peel off paper backing. Then line up in the middle of MR and press to adhere to MR. Top stitch or zigzag around edges in order to secure (optional).

e. Line up TR bottom edge with MR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch

f. Line up MR bottom and BR top edges, rights to rights, and sew. Open seam, press, and top stitch. Repeat with Left sleeve pieces.

You are in the home stretch.
Now all that’s left is to follow the same steps you would take with any other raglan. Attach the sleeves to the front and back panels and then sew sleeve seams and side seams.

The VNeck I treated similar to any other neckband except I didn’t start with a loop nor did I measure it out beforehand. I just cut a strip about 1.5 inches wide, folded in half, and press, then starting at the V in the front attach like you would binding on a quilt or other necklines.

I hope everyone enjoys this new colorblock design and if anyone has any questions I’d be happy to help out or explain something!

Microsoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.dMicrosoft Word - P4P Raglan Colorblock Shirt with Striped Arms.d

***Next time I think I’ll just make the MR and Stripe one piece similar to the elbow patch instead of spending so much time sewing each piece of the sleeve together and topstitching. That way you could cut full sleeve pieces and then attach the MR/ML with Heat N’Bond and zigzag stitch down.

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks Leave a Comment

Lumberjack Shirt :: Sleeve Hack

December 12, 2015

Sometimes, I want/need to make a new dress shirt for my kiddo but I want to make it as quickly as I can.  The collar and button plackets take enough time as-is, so the only thing I can truly eliminate (and save time on) is the cuffs.  Most of the time, Louis is pushing and rolling his sleeves up anyway, so I thought maybe I could cut some corners and give him a shirt with the rolled up sleeve look.  It’s cool and casual, but still has a “dressy” appeal to it.  I love the entire look and idea of it.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-002

First, you will need to get your hands on the Lumberjack Shirt pattern.  If you don’t own this yet and you have a little person in your life, you should probably get on that.  The Lumberjack is great in that it can be made lined, with a hood, and be this super awesome fall/spring jacket.  Or you can make it unlined and with a collar and have yourself a custom-fit buttondown shirt.  I’ve done both versions plenty of times now.

To achieve the faux rolled sleeve, it’s just a few easy steps.  Promise.

After cutting out all of your pieces (you won’t need the cuff or placket!), per the pattern’s instructions lay out your sleeve pieces and take two inches off of the bottom edge.  Why?  Because when you roll the sleeves, it is tighter at the bottom and it might be too snug.  Even with those little arms that are fitting into the top.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-013

Sew the shirt as you the instructions direct you.  When you get to the cuff/sleeve part, all you’ll need to do to finish the sleeves themselves is a simple three step process.

#1: Finish the edge.  Serge it or do a small rolled hem.  Anything to keep the edge from fraying, as it will not be fully enclosed.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-014

#2: Turn the edge up 1/4″ and press.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-015

#3: Turn the edge up 2″, but do not press.  You want this to allow the “rolled up” look of the sleeve.  Once rolled, hand tack the sleeve in two places (I chose the arm seam and directly opposite of it).  The tacking will help the sleeve stay in place but still allow for the look to be pulled off.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-016

Finish the rest of the shirt as instructed.  And then sit back and enjoy the new beauty you just created.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-017P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-018
I adore how the simple change of sleeves moves from a more formal shirt to something more casual.  It’s such a fun look for a little dude, especially one who is singing in a Christmas concert at his school.

P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-006P4P-lumberjack-sleeve-hack-004

Followed one of the hacks shared on this site?  Or maybe you came up with something of your own?  We are DYING to know!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

And while you’re at it, make sure to pick up your very own copy of the Lumberjack Shirt.  Happy sewing!

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks Leave a Comment

Straight Palazzos Pattern Hack (Three Ways!)

December 8, 2015

Winter is coming, no matter if we are embracing that fact or not.  The change in seasons means that we are putting away our warmer weather clothes and finding things that are much more cozy.  Think: flannels, lounge wear, snuggling by a fireplace, drinking hot chocolate…the works.  But being cozy doesn’t mean wearing frumpy clothes…not one bit.  The Straight Palazzo pants are your answer to putting comfy and cute together.

Think: maxi skirt in pant form.  Heaven, right?

p4p-palazzo-hack-tutorial

Inspiration is everywhere and the online boutiques are full of different styles of palazzos.  Here are three different ways you can take this very pattern and put a tiny twist on it, to mimic the styles that you’ve been drooling over.

Hack #1: Flannel Fabric + No Side Seams

Because the pattern is made to hug the booty and is a straight leg all the way down, there is more than enough wiggle room to use a flannel fabric…for the ultimate home/lounge/pj pants.  Flannel in NO WAY can fully replace knit for sewing, but it has a little more give than say, a quilting cotton, and can sometimes work for different pieces of clothing.  It does work for the palazzos, just make sure to check the size chart BEFORE cutting into your precious fabric.  Verify that your full hip measurement will easily fit into the size you’re wanting to use, as that will be the most important measurement.  Personally, I’ve been brainstorming ways to tackle our traditional Christmas pj’s for the entire family, and I believe this was my answer.

P4P Palazzo Hack-006

Eliminating the side seam was SUPER easy.  And it made this one of the quickest pairs of pants to sew ever!  Take your pattern and line the straight edges up together, overlapping them by 1/2″ on both sides.

(Why 1/2″?  The pattern is built with 1/2″ seams all the way around.  Since we aren’t using side seams, we don’t need that extra fabric.)

Lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, now just cutting out two pieces for the legs.  Make sure to cut mirror images or you will end up with two of the same leg!

P4P Palazzo Hack-003

Sew each leg to itself on the inner, long, straight edge.  Then place one leg inside of the other (right sides facing) and sew the crotch seam.  Follow the rest of the directions in your pattern and attach a waistband, based upon the type you’re wanting.

P4P Palazzo Hack-004 P4P Palazzo Hack-005

BAM, you’ve got yourself a snazzy, comfy new pair of pants!

P4P Palazzo Hack-009

Hack #2: Add a Drawstring

I love to add a quick drawstring to pants that I’m worried might creep over into the “pj look” instead of “sweatpant look” on adult and kids clothing I make! And it is a super simple mod too 🙂

I cut all my pieces normally, but added my drawstring piece.  I did about an inch thick long strip that is long enough to go around my hips and then some more to tie.  I did a very long drawstring just for the certain look I was going for.

IMG_6096

Since my knit doesn’t ravel, I didn’t finish it at all, but you can sew it right sides together and turn to create a tube.  I just folded my end under and tied into a knot.

IMG_6106IMG_6107Next, I cut a small rectangle of interfacing.

IMG_6097

For placement, I folded the waistband in half width wise to find the front center and pressed a crease.  Then folded in half lengthwise like it would be when attached to the pants.  I placed my interfacing right under that crease in the center for the look I wanted.  (I had did a yoga band that I planned on folding down, and wanted the drawstring to be tucked under.)

IMG_6099IMG_6100IMG_6098Next, I marked my buttonholes.  I did about 1/2″ from the center for each.  I choose a smaller button so that my holes weren’t too big (I hate when I tie a drawstring and the holes gap open!).

IMG_6103IMG_6101You will need to use a knit button hole.  Here is what mine looks like on my machine.  The zigzag sides let the knit stretch without popping the threads.

IMG_6102IMG_6104Now just sew up your pants exactly as the pattern tutorial instructs.  The only thing to consider is to make sure you’re placing your button holes correctly when attaching the waistband to the pants.  After they’re all sewn up, you can put your drawstring through your button holes and around the waistband.  I always use a safety pin to help guide it through.

IMG_6105IMG_6112Tada! Now you can wear your ever so comfortable, stylish sweatpants without fear they might look like you stepped out in your pjs 😉

Here I am in my SUPER soft, rayon blend floral french terry palazzos with a ribbing waistband and drawstring!

12120250_977021242372670_988239226_n(1)

Hack #3: Add Front Patch Pockets

I’m a minimalist when it comes to taking things with me while running quick errands and let’s face it, as a mom of three, I’m lucky if I get dressed up. 😉  I grab my clutch and my keys and off I go.  The Straight Palazzo Pants are so comfortable and I could wear them everyday but leave me with no pockets and I’m left worrying about where to put my things.  Added front patch pockets…problem solved!

IMG_2002 copy

You will cut your leg pieces and waistband as the pattern instructs but will need to create your pocket piece.

I used the size 14 pocket from the Pirate Playground Shorts and Pants and made a few adjustments to the length to fit my pants. For placement, center pocket between front rise and out-seam with the bottom edge of the pocket lined up at the shorts length cut line and extended to top.

pocket1pocket2Cut your Pocket Pieces.

Unlined/raw edge pocket ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE

For Pocket with Lining ~
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, MAIN FABRIC
CUT 2 MIRROR IMAGE, LINING FABRIC

pocket3lined pocket

Unlined Pocket                                                                                                 Lined Pocket

Unlined Pocket:  Hem pocket edge. I folded mine to the right side of the fabric to show the wrong side of the fabric for added detail.

Lined Pocket: Stitch pocket main and lining with right sides together along top and bottom curves. Flip right sides out and topstitch along top curve.

pocket4

Stitch Pocket on front leg.  Continue construction of the legs and waistband as shown in the pattern tutorial.

Voila! You now have the perfect pair of comfy pants with pockets large enough to hold your phone, cash or in my case, most likely one of my kid’s toys!

palazzo


There you have it!  Three different ways you can take one pattern and make it to fit your needs.  Now you can have the [coziest] pants of your dreams.  (Make sure you have a copy of the Straight Palazzo Pants pattern first.)

Followed one of these hacks?  Or came up with something of your own?  We are DYING to see it!  Share your latest make on the Patterns for Pirates facebook group and let us see.

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks 4 Comments

Tips and Tricks of Up-cycling

December 2, 2015

I love to up-cycle! With a little boy I can find boyish knits, stripes and even character prints so much easier and more affordable buying a men’s T-shirt then the $30/yd euro knit… Which I’m constantly drooling over!  I also love the heathered T-shirt knit, which is harder to find in a fabric store and very easily found in RTW (Ready to wear). I love to use my husband and my old shirts as well… It’s even more special handmade with an already sentimental shirt! So here are some tips and tricks I’ve learned… 1- Buy bigger… Why not? If an XS and XXXL are the same price get more fabric 🙂 2- If it has a picture on it make sure it will fit on your smaller size you are creating.  This one can be difficult if you’re buying large men’s shirts BC they are proportionally much bigger pictures/words/designs on the chest. Here is one I BARELY SQUEEZED on his little chest, but then when it is on some wraps around to the sides, so really I should’ve waited until he was a few sizes bigger!

IMG_6361 IMG_6374

3- Use the hem! I don’t have a cover stitch machine… Yet 🙂 and although I love my double needle using the existing hem saves time and looks nice and professional already!  All  you have to do is account for the hem- Most my patterns are 1″ so here I am cutting with my pattern piece 1″ below my fabric to make up for the fact that I will not be turning up and hemming.

IMG_7303

4- Cut you RTW items down the seams, this give you nice flat pieces to last your pattern pieces out on. If there isn’t a side seam, then I don’t cut… but anywhere there are seams I go ahead and cut because you will not be able to use the area.  I also cut the sleeves, again along the seam and use them if I can!  Here is a shirt and shorts cut and ready to use:

IMG_6437IMG_7300   5- If you’re using a shirt with a design, fold with the DESIGN centered… You’d think RTW is all centered nicely on that shirt… Until you fold it at the side seams and realize it’s not!! Often they’re off centered! 6- If you don’t have ribbed knit to match for the neckline you can use theirs…especially if you have a much larger size (men’s xxl down to a toddler size). Here are a couple of some up-cycles I’ve done: Patterns for Pirates Buccaneer BBall Shorts:

IMG_7317IMG_7294IMG_7304IMG_7333IMG_7340

Matey Muscle Tank:

IMG_0348IMG_6490-2

Wingman Shirt: The grey was from a heathered grey t-shirt… the Batman logo was appliqued on my sewing machine 🙂

IMG_9070

Deep Sea V-Neck:

Copy of IMG_6577

Cole’s Creations ‘Buttercup Dress:

20140521_141909

Women’s Raglan:

listing pictures2

Filed Under: Sewing Techniques, Uncategorized 1 Comment

FST/LMU Mash Nursing Hack

November 25, 2015

20151123_15051720151123_150313

I love the FST and LMU mash for after baby.  It makes me feel stylish, put together and comfortable! The loose aline look hides any left over baby belly and the tighter top doesn’t feel you leaving frumpy.

For this hack I essentially did a double layer body.  I can lift up the top layer and have the bottom layer covering my back/belly during nursing. And it looks like a perfectly “normal” everyday shirt! 🙂

20151123_150449

I made mine completely doubled because we are going into winter here and I didn’t mind the added warmth.  If I was making this for spring or summer months I would probably tinker with a faux double layer for the back piece.

I cut 2 front and back pieces.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Then took 1 front piece to modify for the under layer.  I measured on myself from the neckline to under my bust (I did happen to have on the same shirt, so I didn’t even need to guess where the neckline hit ;)). Then I transferred that measurement to the front center and curved up to the armpit.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Since the FST flares out under the bust it was a little loose there.  So I added a thin elastic to the raw edge.  I just held the elastic taute (not tight) on my body from seam to seam (again, I happen to be wearing this shirt, so there was no guessing!). This way the two layers would have the same finish length–without the elastic holding up the center it would droop lower then the top layer.  As well as not worry about holding it up while nursing–bonus :).

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

I choose to put my elastic on the right side of my under layer, because I didn’t want to feel it against my skin.  But you can put it on the wrong side so that it is hidden when you nurse– whatever you prefer! You will need to stretch the elastic to fit the curve.  I serged mine on, but any stretch stitch will work! It will line up right at the armpit.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

I sewed the shoulder seams and sleeves on like normal.  Then when going down the side seams I kept the main body layers seperate (so you can lift the top layer freely).  It is a bit tricky right at the armpit, but just go slowly  and remember you wont be showing anyone the inside of your armpit seam! 😉

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Now for hemming, I choose to hem the top layer completely normal with a 1″ allowance.

For the under layer I choose to add a pretty lace trim to stick out longer then the top layer.  I wanted the seam hidden, so I trimmed off 1″ from the bottom.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

I serged my lace on right sides together trimming off about 1/2″ of both shirt and lace (the top of the lace that was blank).

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Then flipped up and top-stitched (I didn’t want that seam flipping and showing through the dainty lace trim!).  So, I trimmed 1″ and took off another 1/2″.  This means my seam on the under layer should be 1/2″ above the hemmed edge of my top layer and the lace will peek out below.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

 

I attached the neckband normally catching both layers on the back piece and top layer of the front piece.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

 

Tada! I love my new warm winter nursing friendly shirt! It screams fashionable and not I’m nursing! 🙂 When you’re done nursing you can still wear it as is… or cut out the under layer!

20151123_150424

 

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized 9 Comments

Layer Me Up Nursing Hack

November 23, 2015

I love wearing my Layer Me Up tanks under cardigans during the fall and long sleeve option during the winter.  I can pull down the neckline to nurse, but I love to have something up and down for nursing in public.  So, this hack was born!

It is quick and easy too, which is a plus if you’re nursing and taking care of baby!

I cut out one layer me up exactly as the pattern calls for.  I added one piece using the front piece.  I measured from my armpit to below my bust and transferred that to the pattern piece.  This will become my lift up piece hidden under my normal pieces.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Since the layer me up is a tight fit shirt that requires a 50% stretch spandex blend fabric, you don’t necessarily need to add any elastic to keep it from stretching out with wear/pulling throughout the day.  But, you might want to add it to the bottom raw edge of the hidden lift up piece just to add a little weight and to keep it from shifting around at all during wear.  I serged it on, then hemmed under.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

 

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

I wanted the under piece hidden, so I trimmed about 1/2″ from the neckline.  You could hem it under if you wanted it to be pretty :).

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Pin your under layer to the wrong side of the front piece and sew up your shirt normal–the only other modification is at the neckline.  You will attach the neckband only to the main shirt and leave your hidden piece loose.  This way it is free to come up when nursing.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

 

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Now you have a shirt that looks perfectly “normal” and can pull down the neckline and hidden piece up to nurse!  You can wear it after just as is, or cut out your hidden piece and wear :).

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

 

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

I grabbed a lovely colored ribbed knit without thinking (remember I have a tiny newborn 😉 ) and it had HORRIBLE recovery.  No spandex— it grew and grew and grew! So, I will be trying this hack again in the correct material!

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

And of course, one with Little Guy photobombing 🙂

Filed Under: Pattern Hacks, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Tips on sewing with silky fabrics

July 24, 2015

I have two patterns that I suggest using a lightweight woven with a very soft drape (Everyday Elegance Top and the Summer Cover Up).  I often get asked for “tips and tricks” to working with this kinds of fabrics!  So, here is a compiled list of a few tips I have for working with slippery wovens like chiffon, peach skin, rayon, satin, challis, ect.

I think the most difficult part of sewing something up in this fabric is the cutting.  I almost always use pattern weights like these:

But with any kind of slippery fabric they’re a MUST! If you don’t have any, use any kind of paper weight, heavy object that isn’t too tall.  The silver paper weights are from this Etsy Shop if you’re looking to buy.  She has several options in her shop, I prefer the shorter version to be able to get my scissors closer to them! The pink were hand-me-downs from my mama <3.

Some specialty wovens are harder then others– if you’re cutting anything that needs to be precise (collar piece) then I recommend only cutting ONE layer at a time.  With something as loose and forgiving as the kimono though, I don’t personally bother with it. 🙂

So, lets get started sewing! I recommend using a nice, new, sharp needle for these.  

I also like to tighten my stitch length down one notch to keep away from puckers.

When sewing my BIGGEST TIP is to not OVERWORK the fabric.  Although it is a non-stretch woven they will get “wonky” and pull out of shape if you do.  Don’t pull or “man-handle” the fabric to make anything match! If your pieces aren’t lining up perfectly it is almost always a cutting mistake (remember I said that was the most difficult part!).  

The good thing is most clothing made from these drapey fabrics are loose fitting and forgiving :).  Trim and let it go 😉

After I sew, I PRESS.  It takes a little more time, but it makes your end product much more professional.

French seams:

I had a lot of questions about using french seams.  I don’t tend to care what the inside of my clothes look like a TON.  But for nicer items in specialty wovens french seams would be nice.  Here is my quick how to:

You will place your pieces WRONG side together and make the first stitch. For my patterns with 1/2″ seam allowances I do the first stitch at 1/4″.  Then trim it to 1/8″.  I press the seam on both the wrong and right sides of the garment flat, then fold at the seam and press again.

Now with RIGHT sides together and first seam pressed inside stitch again at 1/4″ from fold/seamline.  This should enclose your raw edge from the first seam allowance and put you at your 1/2″ seam allowance total for the seam.

Again press from wrong and right sides of garment.  I tend to always press to the back.  You can top-stitch here if you prefer.  I do lengthen my stitch length back out to 3 for top-stitching.  Press again 🙂 Do you see an important trend in this? lol!

Hemming:

My prefered way to hem is to serge the edge—- I loosen my tension a tad to fight the puckering.

Then I press the serged edge over twice for a nice even narrow hem. Okay, most the time I don’t press…but you SHOULD press, I can hear my mom telling me to take my time and press every time I don’t 😉 

Now I DO press after EVERY TIME! I see a lot of seamstresses complain their hems are “wonky” on specialty wovens, two things cause this- over working your fabric/pulling it as you sew and not pressing! A good press after can really change the way your hem looks!

I got asked to show how to hem without a serger; so here is how I hemmed without a serger.  I pressed WITH LOTS OF STARTCH (don’t be scared to use some or lots 😉 ) a 1/2″ to wrong side.

Then I opened the 1/2″ hem and folded the raw edge to the fold line.  This creates a 1/4″ narrow hem fold. Press again.

Tada! You can sew with specialty wovens! The biggest tips are: cut carefully, don’t pull your fabric as you sew and press, press and press again 🙂

Filed Under: P4P University, Sewing with Woven Fabrics, Uncategorized 2 Comments

  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 17
  • 18
  • 19

Featured Patterns

  • Loosey Goosey Loosey Goosey $12.00
  • Loosey Goosey- Youth Loosey Goosey- Youth $10.00
  • Loosey Goosey - Bundle Loosey Goosey - Bundle $20.00
  • Everyday Shirt Everyday Shirt $12.00
  • Everyday Shirt- Youth Everyday Shirt- Youth $10.00
  • Privacy Policy
  • Refund Policy
  • Affliliate Program
  • Contact Us
  • About

Copyright © 2025 Patterns for Pirates

Copyright © 2025 · Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in