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Sweetheart SAL Day 2: Printing + Measuring

March 15, 2016

Welcome back to the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long. Let’s get Day #2 started!

Today is all about printing and assembling your pattern. And measuring yourself correctly, so we make sure to get the best fit.

Patterns for Pirates patterns have lots of little extras for you. First, the newest files are set up with a “layers” feature. You can read all about how to access the layers HERE.

And on top of that, they are “no-trim” pages. And that’s exactly what it sounds like! The pages are set up to print and be taped/glued together without needing to get scissors out and trim the edges before assembly. It makes this step of the process even quicker. Need help assembling the no-trim pages? No problem! Judy created this fabulous video for us. Go check it out HERE. (You have to be a member of the P4P Facebook group to be able to see the video.)

Before you hit print, BE SURE that your pages are set to print at 100%, no scaling. We still recommend printing only the first page and measuring your 1″ x 1″ (or 4cm x 4cm) square to verify the print size is correct before printing the entire pattern. Even if your square is off by the teeniest amount, the entire pattern will be affected and your dress will not fit. Save yourself some ink and paper (and fabric!) and verify the settings first.

Now let’s talk measuring yourself!

Judy created an entire post dedicated to measurements and how to properly measure yourself. You can see the full post HERE. However, since the Sweetheart + Me Hearties patterns have a full circle skirt, which makes it very forgiving in the hips, the most important fit aspect of this pattern is the bodice.

Full Bust: Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust. You want the tape as even horizontally as possible.

Over Bust: This is taken around upper back, under arms and over your bust.

Under Bust: This is taken directly under your bust around back. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible.

Waist: This is your natural waistline. Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants). It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section. If you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section. Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on your smallest part.

This is your natural waist

Side Waist Length: Taken from your armpit vertically down to your natural waist. This measurement is vital in any pattern that should hit as your natural waist. (Ahem, Sweetheart Dress!) Making sure this measurement is accurate will give you the most flattering fit. If the seam doesn’t hit you at that smallest point then you’re not using it to your advantage. 😉

Start with your arms DOWN. You want your tape to start where your crease naturally lies— not all the up to your arm. Think where you’d like your shirt to be (if it’s all the way up as tight as possible then it is uncomfortable and you can’t move your arms around).

This was such a hard picture to get! But here are the best we could get to explain… yes, I taped the tape to myself lol!!!

What if you’re taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted for?

The Sweetheart dress was designed for the average “side waist length” of 8 inches. If you measure more or less than that, it’s incredibly important to adjust your pattern to fit your body properly.

We recommend to adjust differently, based upon your bust size. If you have a smaller/larger bust than the pattern is drafted for, make your height adjustments at the bust line. If your bust measurements are the same, add or remove the length below your bust line.

What if your measurements don’t fall within one size?

That is why you’re sewing for yourself, isn’t it? To get the perfect fit? Well then let’s get that perfect fit!

Let’s say your measurements fall in a “medium” bust and a “large” waist. Cut the pattern out, by grading between the two sizes. Before cutting, simply draw a line on your paper pattern, blending the sizes at a midpoint. You want your line as smooth as possible between to the two sizes.

WHEW! Did you soak in all of that information?
Hopefully now, your pattern is printed, taped/glued together, you have properly measured for your size, cut the pattern pieces out and are ready to start cutting into your pretty fabrics tomorrow. If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram. Don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page either: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us! We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart SAL: Day 1 – Fabric Selection

March 14, 2016

Welcome to Day 1 of the P4P Sweetheart + Me Hearties Sew-A-Long! We are so glad you’re here.

Today, we are talking fabric. Let’s be honest, if you’re here, fabric is probably your favorite thing to talk about already. So this is going to be a fun topic. Let’s get started!

Fabric choice can really make or break a garment. Not just the color or pattern, but the kind of fabric you use.

There are so many fabrics out there that you can get lost in the different options. What helps is to familiarize yourself with how the fabric will look once it’s on you (how it will drape and fit). Feeling fabric for the amount of stretch, thickness, and drape will help you pair it with the right pattern.

So what is the right fabric for the Sweetheart pattern?

We highly recommend a more stable knit. Ponte de roma, jegging, scuba, liverpool, and thicker cotton lycras are fabulous for this pattern, specifically because of the circle skirt. Fabrics with a higher drape will still work, but beware that the skirt could end up being a bit more clingy that you were hoping.

For the overlays and colorblocked top pieces, feel free to use any of the above listed fabrics, as well as stretch lace, mesh knits, rayon blends, etc.

Ponte de Roma: (or ponte, ponte roma, ponte di roma, etc) This fabric is a double knit in construction, and tends to look the same on both sides. It’s a sturdy knit, generally with a horizontal stretch only, although can sometimes also be found with a vertical stretch. It’s made up of poly, rayon and spandex blend (the more rayon the softer the feel). It can pill easily, but if you hang dry should last you with normal wear. The rayon gives it a good drape still, see how the skirt falls towards the body.

Jegging: Typically thought to be used for skinny pants and other bottoms, jegging is a medium-weight stretch fabric. You can also find it labeled “denim knit” in some shops. Often, it has a denim-style look (think blues and blacks) and is meant to mimic jeans while keeping the comfort of stretch fabric. It has some vertical stretch. Weight of jegging knit can vary widely, so if you’re using it for the sweetheart you want to keep it a bit thicker.

Scuba: A highly structured, one sided fabric, made of neoprene (with a sleek surface, much like a scuba outfit). Typically only has a horizontal stretch and is easy to sew with, however isn’t the most breathable fabric. These types of knits have a great stretch and recovery, like ponte does, but doesn’t have as soft of a drape. Your skirt will stick out a bit more away from your body.

Other fabrics that are very similar are liverpool, true neoprene and techno. They will all feel, stretch and drape about the same.

Fukuro: Soft to the touch with a nice stretch. The face of fabric has texture to it while the back has a smooth finish. It is a more structured knit and skirt will again stick out away from body more.

Cotton Lycra: This semi-opaque knit has a soft hand. Most commonly has both horizontal and vertical stretch. The word “lycra” is a brand/trademark of spandex. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement, and shape retention that won’t wash away. Depending on weight you may feel a bit more “revealed” in cotton lycra on the top half, because it isn’t as thick as those listed above. Your skirt will have moderate drape towards the body. The vertical stretch could cause your bodice to pull slightly longer with the weight of the skirt pulling it down. (It was very windy, so the dress is being blown under my booty by the wind! It is not the fabric draping under there naturally!)

You can choose a fabric with a softer drape, like ITY, poly blends, rayon spandex, etc. But they will drape down towards your body. Your skirt will hang on your body instead or stick out away from it. We still recommend one that has good weight for the bodice to hold shape well and since it is fitted to help not show lumps,bumps,bra lines, etc.

Now that you’ve chosen your fabrics, share them with us! Tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PSWEETSAL on Instagram. And be sure to post your fabric picks in our event page: Sweetheart SAL on Facebook.

Thanks for sewing along with us! We look forward to a week worth of sewing with you!

Day 1: Fabric Selection.
Day 2: Printing + Measuring.
Day 3: Cutting Fabric.
Day 4: Bodice + Sleeves.
Day 5: Skirt + Hemming.
Day 6 & 7: Catch-Up Days.
Day 8: Recap + Winners Announced!

Sweetheart + Me Hearties SAL: Get Ready!

March 13, 2016

Get excited. Why? Because Patterns for Pirates is having our first Sew-A-Long! Our timing couldn’t be more perfect for Easter sewing either…because it’s for the Sweetheart + Me Hearties Dresses! Eep!

The SAL (sew-a-long) begins on Monday, but that doesn’t mean you can’t start planning it all out ahead of time. Because these are full circle skirts, they do take a bit more fabric than a basic tee/dress would…so start digging through your stash or head out to your local fabric shop to make sure you have enough to make your perfect dress (or peplum).

And don’t forget to join us in the Event Page for the Sew-A-Long on Facebook: HERE.
The SAL itself will be on this very blog, but we will be extending the party over to the group and event on Facebook for even more interactive fun!

And before we go…here is the schedule, so you know what to expect from us. We will even be throwing in some new tricks and pattern hacks, so you can get even more out of these adorable patterns. Can’t wait!!

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