Patterns for Pirates

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New Pattern Release :: Valley Swing Dress (Adult + Youth Sizes!)

July 11, 2022

We are so excited to release our newest pattern by crew member Katy!

Say hello to your new favorite dress: The Valley Swing Dress, available for both our Adult Hourglass Figure (XXS – Plus 5X sizes) and Youth (3m – 14 sizes).  Like all of her pattern releases so far, Katy’s giving a nod to her home state.  The Valley Swing Dress is named after where she lives in West Virginia: the Ohio Valley.

Are you ready to swish, sway, and (of course!) swing yourself into a new pattern with us?  Let’s tell you all about it!


The Valley Swing Dress pattern lives up to it’s name, in that it’s got some swing to it!  These patterns are fitted in the bust, semi-fitted in the waist, and have an oversized fit in the hips.  The ease of the bodice creates an incredibly flattering silhouette, before it swings out to a swishy, flowy skirt.  This beginner friendly pattern is a perfect wardrobe staple for all seasons.  Pair it with a lightweight knit and a tanktop and you’ve got the cutest summer dress to keep cool in.  Or sew it up with a drapey sweater knit and some long sleeves, throw on your favorite tights and booties and you’ll be incredibly fashionable this fall and winter!  The colorblocked skirt hits right at the waist and allows for some fun pattern, print and color mixing combos.  Or just pick a plain dress option for an even faster sewing project.  Either way, you’ll love how comfortable, charming and easy this dress is to throw on!
Choose from these options:
  • tanktop, short, 3/4 and long sleeves
  • top, tunic and above-knee hem lengths
  • colorblock or plain skirted options
The Valley Swing Dress is drafted for a mid-to-lightweight knit fabric with at least 30% horizontal stretch.
Some of our favorites are: rayon spandex, ITY, poly spandex, brushed polyester, ribbed knit, waffle knit, modal, bamboo lycra, etc.
**Keep in mind that fabric content will affect drape and fit!  Stiffer/heavier fabrics, such as cotton lycra, are not recommended.  And fabrics with less recovery, such as some rayon spandex, may “grow” with wear and fit longer than intended.


The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X for the Adult Hourglass Figure.

  • *Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.
  • And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!
  • As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.
Consider yourself to be a visual learner and need a little extra hand-holding before you sew?  We’ve got you!  Take a peek at this video, where we walk you through the entire sewing process of the Valley Swing Dress!

Okay….let’s check out some of the different features, modeled by our incredible testers:

TOP + TUNIC + DRESS HEM LENGTHS

TANK + SHORT + 3/4 + LONG SLEEVE LENGTHS

COLORBLOCK + PLAIN OPTIONS

We are looking forward to see what you make with the new Valley Swing Dress patterns!  Head on over to the shop and grab yourself a copy and get to sewing!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 17th, 2022.

Valley Swing Dress | Valley Swing Dress – Youth | Valley Swing Dress – Bundle

Hoping for a little inspiration before diving into some swing dress sewing?  Journey over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Valley Swing Adult Album | Valley Swing Youth Album

Filed Under: Pattern Release Leave a Comment

Go Team Patterns :: New Pattern Releases!!

October 15, 2021

IT. IS. GO. TEAM. TIME.  We have been working our bootys off on a set of four amazing patterns and today is the day, y’all!  We are ready to release them to our favorite pirate community!

Let’s talk allllll about the Go Team Jerseys and the Go Team Dresses!!

Whether you’re a fan of a sports team or just a fan of looking and feeling great, the Go Team Jersey is a great t-shirt for your wardrobe. The relaxed fit is super comfortable and the sporty details set it apart from your everyday tee. The front and back yoke give a great opportunity for mixing fabrics, decorative stitching or adding wording. The sleeve stripes are another great detail you can add for a sporty feel. You can pick from crew or V neckline, or even add a hood instead. This pattern works great year around with short, 3/4, long hemmed or long cuffed sleeve options. Shirt length options for average, short, and tall heights along with separate sleeves for each height.


The options for the Go Team Jersey includes:

  • Crew, V and Hooded Necklines.
  • Short, 3/4, Long Hemmed, and Long Cuffed Sleeve Lengths.
  • Adult sizes include Short, Average and Tall lengths for Sleeves and Bodice.
  • Stylish front + back yokes.
  • Optional Sleeve Stripes.

The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 6X!  Please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.



Goooo Team! Whether your “team” is for sports, foodie, fan fiction, or anything else, the Go Team Dress is the perfect way to show off your team spirit!  Or you can take this pattern and make a plain top for a great basic tee…while also allowing the perfect opportunity for fabric mixing with the front and back yoke. The stripes on the sleeves are another fun sporty detail you can add or leave off. You can choose from a crew, V or hood neckline. Don’t worry about what time of year it is because this pattern has you covered with short, 3/4, long hemmed or long with cuff sleeve options. Have a certain bottom you’re plaining on pairing your Go Team Dress with? No worries there… you can opt for crop, which goes great with high waisted bottoms, shirt, that hits mid booty, tunic, that hits under booty, curved hemline, also below booty, and dress, that hits at a flattering couple inches above knees. The semi-fitted, figure skimming silhouette is comfortable and flattering at the same time.


For this pattern, the youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the size ranges from XXS – Plus 5X!  

The options for the Go Team Dress includes:

  • Crew, V and Hooded Necklines.
  • Short, 3/4, Long Hemmed, and Long Cuffed Sleeve Lengths.
  • Adult sizes hem lengths: Crop, Shirt, Tunic and Knee.
  • Youth sizes hem lengths: Shirt, Tunic, Curved Hem, and Dress Lengths.
  • Stylish front + back yokes.
  • Optional Sleeve Stripes.


*Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

GO TEAM JERSEY + GO TEAM DRESS – NECKLINES
 
GO TEAM JERSEY + GO TEAM DRESS – SLEEVE LENGTHS
 
GO TEAM JERSEY + GO TEAM DRESS OPTIONAL SLEEVE STRIPES
 
GO TEAM DRESS – HEMLINES

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the Go Team patterns!  They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, Friday October 22, 2021.

GO TEAM JERSEY | GO TEAM JERSEY – YOUTH

GO TEAM DRESS | GO TEAM DRESS – YOUTH

GO TEAM DRESS + JERSEY BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Go Team Jersey Album | Go Team Jersey – Youth Album

Go Team Dress Album | Go Team Dress – Youth Album

 

Filed Under: Pattern Release 2 Comments

Using A Projector For Sewing – The Basics

June 18, 2021

I am going to be spending some time today talking about how I use my projector for sewing. We’ll discuss what type I have, and why I chose it as well as discussing the other options available; how I link it up to the pattern itself; how I ensure it is projecting at the right size; and some of the pros and cons of projecting. Hopefully it will answer a few of the questions you may have about this new sewing craze, and maybe give you the confidence to get involved too! 


I first heard about using a projector for sewing patterns a few years ago.  The idea is that you link a projector up to your pattern, and then rather than printing out the paper pattern pieces to cut and use, you project those pattern images straight onto fabric, cutting out the middle man, so to speak.

I didn’t really give it much thought, it sounded like an interesting idea but presumed it would be a bit too technical for me, and perhaps a bit cumbersome, but I liked the idea of doing away with paper pattern pieces and so when I started to see more people using projectors I decided to dive in and see if I could work out how practical it might actually be.

My projector is an Epson 485WI. I bought it in May 2020 after doing a lot of research about the kind of set up I would need for my own sewing room. I was lucky enough to find it reconditioned, on Ebay, being sold by a private school that was refurbishing its classrooms, and I have to say that it has been absolutely brilliant. Brand new, these types of projectors can be extremely expensive, but if you can find a reconditioned model like mine it’s a great way to make it more affordable.  Things to be aware of are the seller’s returns policy and reviews, and the age of the bulb. Older bulbs will be dimmer, so a new bulb with fewer hours on the clock will give you a brighter image. Some less powerful projectors will need to be used in a darkened room, however mine can be used in the middle of the day, quite comfortably.  The make and model you are looking at should be able to tell you the Lumens rating of the projector, that is it’s measure of brightness.  My projector has a rating of 3100 lumens. 

 I chose it because it is an Ultra Short Throw projector. This means that you do not need to have a large distance between the projector itself and your cutting mat. I did not want to have to mount a projector on the ceiling, as we have a ceiling light right above my cutting table, so I had to look at other options. This type of UST projector sits next to the cutting table, raised slightly above it, and projects down onto the surface of the mat. I have a mantelpiece right behind my table (which is lifted up on risers to a more comfortable height for cutting), and I knew I would be able to sit the projector on the mantelpiece nice and neatly, away from my daughter and my dog – both crash hazards!

If you don’t have this set up, or you would prefer a ceiling mounted projector you can find them relatively inexpensively on Amazon or elsewhere online. You will need to measure the distance between your cutting mat/table and where your projector would be mounted to help choose the right projector for your space. The specifications for the projector you are looking at should detail the minimum distance needed and the size of projection this will give you. Generally speaking, the further away from the cutting mat the projector is, the bigger the projected picture you will get. If you want to get very adventurous, I have seen people setting up their projectors to reflect the picture down to the cutting mat via a mirror, to make a larger projected image, but I don’t have experience of dealing with this myself. 

 

As well as the Ultra Short Throw projector that I have, you can also get Short Throw projectors that are specifically designed to project down from the ceiling but at a closer distance to the cutting mat. Again, the individual projector specs will give you details of how close you can mount the projector to the projection surface. 

My projector is connected via an HDMI cable to the projector directly. Some people use a Chrome cast plugged into the projector and cast the image from their laptop or tablet and others have a cable tethered to the ceiling and wall that runs from their digital device to the projector. However, one way or another you need to be able to connect your projector to your pattern image being displayed on Adobe Acrobat. Some sewists using a tablet can use software called Zodo to display the pattern but I believe there are issues using the zoom function to accurately display the pattern at the correct size every time, so that may be something to do some further research into, if you don’t have a laptop/desktop computer to use. 


Some of the other admins at P4P have kindly taken some photos of their projector setups, to give you an idea of how people are using these new sewing tools!

• Bekah uses a GooDee Wifi mini projector, with a short throw.  She has about 4ft from ceiling to cutting table and so she chose to sink the projector in a recess cut into the ceiling space of her sewing room.  She gets a cutting space of about 24″ x 36″.  Her installation team were very hard workers!


• Lizzy has an Ultra Short Throw Epson 585w Powerlite mounted on a stand at the back of her cutting table.

• Trissa uses a Vivimage Explorer 2 connected to her Mac laptop with a 3rd generation Chromecast.


• Rachel has an Apeman projector mounted on a backdrop stand, for a non-permanent setup option.


So you can see that there are lots of different options out there for you to consider.  My thanks to all my Pirate shipmates for their help supplying pics and setup details.


 

Watch THIS VIDEO to see my projector setup in action as I go through turning it on, calibrating it, selecting options and demonstrate cutting using a projected image.

 


The most important thing about using your projector is that you will need to calibrate it to make sure it is projecting at the correct size. Otherwise you will find that your pattern pieces are too large/small and your garment will not fit. 

 

First of all you will ensure that your projector is casting a correct rectangular shape, with 90° right angles at the corners. This shape can be adjusted by either moving the projector itself, or using the Keystone adjustments on the projector settings. You may also need to adjust the focus as well.

 

Next you will adjust the zoom on Adobe Acrobat to make sure that the pattern pieces being projected will be the correct size. The Facebook group, Projectors For Sewing has a lot of information that will help guide you through this process, which has kindly been provided for free by the page admins. It includes several calibration grid files, which you can download and bring up in Adobe Acrobat. Here is a screen grab of my laptop displaying one of the calibration grids that can be used.  Each line is a certain length as indicated on the grid, and your projected image has to be adjusted so that the projected line measures at the correct length.

These calibration grids will help you adjust the zoom in Adobe to the correct scale, by measuring the lines on the boxes once they are projected onto your cutting table. If the projected line measures 90cm on your tape measure, for example, and the grid says it should measure 80cm, you will need to decrease your zoom to make the image smaller.  There is a little trial and error to start with, but it’s pretty easy once you understand the logistics of it. Once all the lines measure the correct size, your projector is calibrated.   I use a centimetre grid as I am in the UK and use metric, but there are also imperial options too.  You can watch the video linked above to see me doing this live, and see some stills below:


 

My machine stays in place on the mantelpiece, so I do not have to re-calibrate every time I turn it on. I set the zoom to the correct setting (which for me is 15.2%) and then just measure off a couple of lines on the calibration grid to make sure nothing has shifted. 


When you open your P4P projector file, you will see two options at the bottom of the size layers, 2x2in grid and 4x4cm grid. These will bring up a grid which measures either 2×2 inch squares or 4×4 centimetre squares, superimposed over your pattern pieces.

You can then sit your tape measure or quilting ruler next to these to ensure you have got the right setting on your zoom, also. It is important to check the measurements at the top, and the bottom of your projected image, in case the projection has tilted in some way. 


You do not need a projector file, however; some of our older patterns produced before this new projector craze have a layered A0 file, and this can also be used to project your pattern very effectively. The differences will be that the A0 file will not have the sizing grid option included, and the lines on the projector file are a little thicker and easier to see. 


There are many great benefits that you get from using a projector for sewing. The time saving aspect of not having to tape/glue pattern pieces together or cut out paper patterns is astonishing. Plus you will be saving a massive amount of paper from your recycling bin. It’s great for being able to quickly cut out multiple sizes of the same pattern, for siblings etc. 

You will save money on ink and paper too, and at £30 for a cartridge of ink for my printer every few months, it quickly adds up to a cost saving overall. 

 

I find it easy to mash patterns by cutting/drawing part of the pattern out using one pattern image, and then flipping into the next pattern pieces to draw/cut the remainder.

 

You can use it for other things too, we had great fun during homeschooling, projecting my daughter’s maths and spelling homework onto my cutting table, which she really enjoyed. A lot of people use their projectors for home cinema setups, too. Just remember you will need to re-calibrate it afterwards, once you get it back into position. 

If you make lots of pattern alterations, like full bust adjustments, sway back adjustments etc, you may need to get to grips with a software called Inkscape, which allows you to make adjustments to the pattern pieces digitally. Alternately, some sewists like to use their projectors to project the pattern image onto tracing paper, and then make adjustments to the paper pattern pieces as they go. Some adjustments can be made on the fly as you project, just by marking the pattern in a specific location, and then sliding your cutting board along the table to a new position, and then cutting again, but more advanced adjustments will need to be done in one of the ways discussed above. 

With my projector, because the projection area is so large, sometimes I have to add a buffer of blank space around my pdf pattern so that I can manoeuvre it into the right place on my cutting table.  I use a website called sedja.com to do this, and you can find full instructions on how to do this in the helpful files on the Projectors for Sewing Facebook page.  I like to add a 25 inch buffer on every side.  If you’re not sure what I mean here, the video linked above will show you how this works.

 

The only other downsides I have so far come across, is that if you do not note what adjustments you have made to a pattern then when you come back to it later, because you may not have a hard, paper copy to refer to, you will have forgotten what you did. For example, my daughter is tall and slender, and I always have to grade sizes for her. At the moment she is an age 8 height, 5 waist and 6 hip. I might make something for her and love the fit, but if I don’t note down what grading I did, if I want to make another I will have forgotten.   You can add notes to your pattern on Adobe Acrobat however, just remember to make them!

 

Sometimes it is also difficult to see which pieces to cut when looking at the projected image, as the text may be a little blurry. I find that if I turn on the tools and comments section, I can use a large red line to score out the pieces I don’t need to cut, so I don’t get confused when cutting out. 


The only other downside? Sometimes, especially in the middle of summer, the fan on the projector can kick out quite a lot of heat.  I cut out a pattern wearing a bikini during a particularly hot spell last year!


Overall, it’s a fantastic tool to have in your sewing arsenal, the time and money saving aspect alone is enough to make it worthwhile to give it a go. I certainly haven’t looked back. 

I would recommend doing a lot of research before you dive in and make a purchase. There is a vast amount of information on the Projectors for Sewing page, and I would recommend joining  and seeing what setups people have to get a little inspiration. 

 

Hopefully this has helped you get an idea of how projectors can be used in your sewing room to help you and maybe inspire you to join this growing community.

Happy Sewing!

Dana x


Dana is a sewing teacher and fabric fancier living in Suffolk, UK.  She specialises in plus size womenswear and funky kids clothes, and she loves testing and blogging for P4P.  You can find her at The Slippy Chicken Company

Filed Under: P4P University 18 Comments

Runabout SAL – day 7 (winners announcement)

June 30, 2020

Good evening, pirates!! I know you have been waiting for the winners blog so I won’t keep you in suspense much longer. Allow me to express how proud I am of every single one of you. I have seen so many new participants as well as seasoned sewists, everyone being so encouraging and helpful. YOU ROCK!

Without further ado…. 🥁

Congratulations Ashley Haley!  Ashley is our first winner, her prizes include a $20 gift card for Patterns for Pirates and a mystery Bamboo Lycra PFRE from Coordiknit Nonsense Fabrics (winner pays shipping). 


Our second winner is Felisha Jones! Felisha won a $20 gift card to Made for Mermaids and a free yard of fabric from Coordiknit. 


A big “thank you” to our sew along sponsor! You can check them out on Facebook and on their website. 


Thank you so much for joining me this past week. I’m excited to see you all back in August. In the meantime, stay tuned for the mermaids’ announcement regarding our next sew along. 

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 1 | Print pattern and cut fabric

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 2 | Add chest pocket, sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 3 | Sew side seams and add tank armband/dolman sleeves

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 4 | Add pockets, side seam skirt or shorts/joggers and inseam

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 5 | Hem skirt/shorts or add cuffs to joggers

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 6 | Add waistband and show off your creations

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 7 | Winners announcements

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized 2 Comments

New Pattern Releases :: Sunflower Swim Top + Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!

June 27, 2020

To help your summer go swimmingly well (ba-dum-ching!) we are bringing you a brand new set of swimwear tops and bottoms!  And we couldn’t be more excited about sharing them with you all.  In both adult and youth sizes, we are happy to introduce you to the Sunflower Swim Top and the Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!  For both of these patterns, the youth sizes range from 3m – 14.  And the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X!  If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

Okay, now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s start first by telling you all about the Sunflower Swim Top, shall we?


The Sunflower Swim Top is a great beginner swim top to try out if you’re wanting to start sewing swim for adults! The open back is very forgiving in fit since you can tie it a bit tighter or looser to get your perfect preferred fit. You can pick your bust coverage with a higher straight neckline or the lower scoop neckline. The full back is a very quick and easy sew that you can sew up for a simple and quick top. The flattering fit ends right at your smallest point to show off your natural waistline. But if you want a little more coverage you can add the optional ruffle. The top is fully lined and has the optional shelf bra. You can also add innerlining and removable cups to the shelf bra for even more support.

Options include: high straight neckline, scoop neckline, full back, open back, shelf bra, removable cups, and ruffle.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like complete sew ups of 2 different tops which cover all the options.

SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – YOUTH | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – BUNDLE




The Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will have your swimsuit drawer full in no time with a variety of looks! You can mix and match with your tops easily, depending on your mood or where and who you’re going swimming with!  In case you’re feeling like you want more coverage, you can grab the high rise and brief options.  But in the event that you’re feeling like baring it all for less obtrusive tan lanes…go for the cheeky and low rise. Or you can pick between those two with a mid-rise, which hits just below the belly button.  Mix in some ruching at the side seams for a fun detail. These bottoms are very simple and quick to make with the waistline and leglines hemmed under with swim elastic. You can also choose to partially line or fully line.

Options include: low rise, mid rise, high rise, cheeky booty cutline (adult only), brief booty cutline, ruched side seams, partially lined or fully lined.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like adding/removing length, complete sew ups of ruched, plain, partially and fully lined bottoms.

BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – YOUTH | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – BUNDLE



**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

SUNFLOWER BACK FINISHES

SUNFLOWER TOP HEMS

SUNFLOWER NECKLINES

BUSY BEE RISES

BUSY BEE LEG LINES (ADULT ONLY)

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of these swim separates!  The Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will be on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 5, 2020.

Don’t see the perfect bundle for the patterns you’d like to buy? Don’t forget you can always make your own bundle!

SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – YOUTH | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – BUNDLE
BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – YOUTH | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sunflower Swim Album | Busy Bee Swim Album | Sunflower Swim Youth Album | Busy Bee Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Sunflower Swim Top Easy Hacks Blog Post!

Filed Under: Pattern Release Leave a Comment

Runabout SAL – day 6 (add waistband)

June 27, 2020

Ahoy, pirates! Last sewing day is here! Today we create the waistband and attach the bodice to the skirt, shorts or joggers. Start by adding the grommets to the center of the main front waistband. These are for the faux drawstring. This step is completely optional but it yields a very cute result. I wouldn’t skip it.

Tip: if you don’t have any grommets handy, you can make two big buttonholes instead.  

Once you finish the decorative steps, sew the waistbands main and lining in a loop. You will notice that the waistband has 2 main pieces for sizes 2x and up. This is only to accommodate the most common width of fabrics.  You will see in the video below how I create the elastic opening. You will proceed to pin together the waistband main and lining wrong sides together.  Attach the waistband top to the bodice and bottom to the skirt/shorts/joggers, matching the center and side seams. 

All you have left to do now is thread the elastic through. All done!!! 


You can see the last sew along video here. Once you finish your outfit, snap a picture and post it in the comments of day 6 photo of the Runabout Romper and Dress. We will be picking our two winners on Monday evening and announcing them here on the blog. Great job, everyone!

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 1 | Print pattern and cut fabric

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 2 | Add chest pocket, sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 3 | Sew side seams and add tank armband/dolman sleeves

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 4 | Add pockets, side seam skirt or shorts/joggers and inseam

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 5 | Hem skirt/shorts or add cuffs to joggers

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 6 | Add waistband and show off your creations

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 7 | Winners announcements

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Runabout SAL – day 5 (hem skirt/shorts or add cuffs to joggers)

June 26, 2020

We made it to day 5 of the Runabout Romper Sew Along. Today is probably the easiest day. We are finishing the bottoms by hemming or adding the cuffs. 

I opted for the dress do I will be hemming the curved edge. We have a P4P University blog with tips for hemming knits. You can read about it here. The most important thing about hemming knits with your coverstitch or sewing machine is to PRESS, press and press some more! 

If you are sewing the joggers will will add ankle cuffs. Mark the quarters of the ankle opening and the cuffs. Stitch the cuffs on, matching the quarter point, making sure that you stretch the cuff but not the jogger. 

Tomorrow we will be working on the waistband and finishing the project. Watch the video below and when you finished today’s steps, post a picture of your progress  in the day 5 comments of the RRD album.See you soon! 

 

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 1 | Print pattern and cut fabric

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 2 | Add chest pocket, sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 3 | Sew side seams and add tank armband/dolman sleeves

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 4 | Add pockets, side seam skirt or shorts/joggers and inseam

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 5 | Hem skirt/shorts or add cuffs to joggers

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 6 | Add waistband and show off your creations

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 7 | Winners announcements

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized 1 Comment

Runabout SAL – day 4 (add pockets, side seam skirt or shorts/joggers and inseam)

June 25, 2020

Welcome to day four of our sew along! Today we start working on the bottom part. Whether you are sewing the romper or the dress today you are adding the pockets and sewing the side seam. Additionally, you will also be stitching the inseam of the joggers and shorts. 

Tip: double check that you cut the correct pockets before you start sewing. You might have noticed that there are two pockets and pocket lining patterns. One is for the skirts and shorts and one is for the joggers. You can’t switch them around.

If you are sewing the skirt you will be stitching the side seams with your serger or your sewing machine. Be mindful of the side split directions if you opted for the maxi style. 

If you are creating joggers or shorts, you will be sewing each leg at a time. This will give your crotch seam the most strength. 

The day 4 video is below. Once you get the steps done, post a picture in the comments of day 4 photo of the RRD album in the FB group. This will count as your check in for today. See you back here tomorrow !

 

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 1 | Print pattern and cut fabric

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 2 | Add chest pocket, sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 3 | Sew side seams and add tank armband/dolman sleeves

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 4 | Add pockets, side seam skirt or shorts/joggers and inseam

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 5 | Hem skirt/shorts or add cuffs to joggers

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 6 | Add waistband and show off your creations

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 7 | Winners announcements

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Runabout SAL – day 3 (side seams and tank bands/dolman sleeves)

June 24, 2020

Welcome to day 3 of our sew along! Today is a pretty easy day. We will finish the bodice by sewing the side seams and finishing the sleeves. 

  • if you are creating the tank style, you will be adding the arm bands the exact way you added the neckband yesterday
  • if you are doing the short sleeve option, you will be be hemming the sleeve as I am
  • if you are getting ready for cooler temperatures and sewing the long sleeves, you will be adding cuffs. The tutorial shows you how to add the sleeves in the round. 

The word of the day is PRESS! Press and steam all your hems and cuffs, you want to make sure it looks great! Plus, hemming is a lot easier if you pressed before, I promise you! 

You can see in the video below how I am a sewing the side seams and hemming the short dolman sleeves. When you complete these steps add a picture of your progress to the comments of day 3 of the RRD sew along album. 

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 1 | Print pattern and cut fabric

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 2 | Add chest pocket, sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 3 | Sew side seams and add tank armband/dolman sleeves

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 4 | Add pockets, side seam skirt or shorts/joggers and inseam

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 5 | Hem skirt/shorts or add cuffs to joggers

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 6 | Add waistband and show off your creations

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 7 | Winners announcements

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

Runabout SAL – day 2 (chest pocket, shoulder seams and neckband)

June 23, 2020

Welcome to the second day of our sew along! Today we start working on the bodice. First we will tackle the chest pocket. This is a great opportunity to add an accent fabric or a pop of color to your Runabout romper or dress. The pattern features a simple rectangle pocket that you simply hem prior to attaching. You can see in today’s video I opted to line it instead.

Once this step is completed you will sew the shoulder seams right sides together, following a 1/2″ seam allowance. 

Tip: Add clear elastic to the shoulder seams to strengthen them and make sure the shoulders don’t stretch throughout the day. 

The last part for today’s progress is to add the neckband. You are basically following the same technique regardless of the style neckline you decided to do. If you are new to sewing with knits or simply would like a refresher, take a look over our P4P University Neckbands 101 blog post. 

Once you finish today’s steps snap a picture of your progress and add it to the day 2 photo comments on the Runabout SAL album in the P4P & M4M group.

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 1 | Print pattern and cut fabric

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 2 | Add chest pocket, sew shoulder seams and add neckband

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 3 | Sew side seams and add tank armband/dolman sleeves

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 4 | Add pockets, side seam skirt or shorts/joggers and inseam

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 5 | Hem skirt/shorts or add cuffs to joggers

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 6 | Add waistband and show off your creations

Runabout Romper & Dress SAL day 7 | Winners announcements

Filed Under: Frequently Asked Questions, Sew-A-Long, Uncategorized Leave a Comment

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