Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 7

What a splashing fabulous week! Thank you so much for joining me in the Sunflower Swim Top sew along. We loved seeing you get ready for a P4P summer. It is time to announce the two winners, so without further ado….

Congratulations Melissa Powell! As our first winner, Melissa will receive a $20 Patterns for Pirates gift card and a $50 Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics one. I can’t wait to see those smiling faces sporting some OSP/P4P creations!

 

Jenny Sherman Richards  is our second prize winner. She won a $20 gift card to Made for Mermaids and a $25 Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics one.

A big THANK YOU to Oh So Pretty Custom Fabrics, our Sew Along sponsor, who also provided the swim fabrics for the videos.

 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 6

Hello, pirates! We have made it to the last day of our sew along. Today we add the optional ruffle, hem the bottom and finish the back loops. 

If you are not adding the ruffle, sew the elastic along the bottom (just like we did yesterday) with an stretch stitch. Fold 3/8” and hem. If you are adding the ruffle, start by gathering the strip of swim. For the closed back style, the ruffle will be one loop, for the open back it will a straight piece. 

Remember to stitch the ruffle 3/4” away from the ends of the swim top bottom. You will add the elastic after you sew the ruffle on. If you opted for the closed back you have finished. For the open back, you need to fold each of the loops 3/4” towards the lining and stitch down. Thread the straps through the loops and tie knots at the end. 

That’s it! You finished your beautiful swim tops! I whipped up a pair of coordinating Busy Bee swim bottoms to go with my Sunflower top. I absolutely love my Minnie Mouse inspired swimsuit. 

Here is the last sew along video. Once you finish your Sunflower post a picture of your completed swim top in then comments of day 6 sew along album. Feel free to share your creations all over Facebook but don’t skip adding it to the day 6 check in photo, that’s where the the P4P team will pick the winners. We will announce them here on the blog on Tuesday. 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 5

Welcome to day 5 of our Sunflower Swim Top sew along. I reserved today to adding all elastics to the neckline, armcyce and back curves. Another easy day but a very important one. Do not skip sewing elastic in the seams of your swimsuits!

If you are sewing the closed back style, you will have a two elastics to sew, one in the neckline and another one in the armscye and along the top of the back. If you are creating the open back top you should have 1 elastic for then neckline, 2 form the armscye and 4 for the back C curves.

You should stitch the swim elastic along the wrong side of the main print with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine or your serger. Remember to disengage the serger blade! The elastic and edges it goes on should be then same length, no stretching needed. 

In today’s video I show you how I add the elastic to the open back Sunflower top. Once you finish your steps, snap a picture of your progress and add it to the comments of day 5 photo of the sew along album. Tomorrow we add the optional ruffle and finish then swim top. See you back here!

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 4

Ahoy, matey! Welcome to the mid day of our Sunflower sew along. Today is the fastest sewing day so it makes a good opportunity to catch up on past days, start a second swim top or join us if you still haven’t started. 

First off we need to baste or pin in place the front straps. If you are sewing the halter top, you’ll pin the straps 1.25″ away from each side. If you did the scoop neckline (like me) then you are centering the straps in the pick ups. Once the front straps are basted in place, stitch the back side too. You are only sewing in the back straps for the closed back style. 

Place your lining and your main right sides together making sure that the straps are out of the way. Stitch along the top ONLY for now. For the closed back option, you are all done. If you are creating the open back then you will also need to stitch around the 4 “C” curves at the back.

You can see in day 4 video below how I attach the lining to my scoop neck, open back Sunflower swim top. Once you finish today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of the Sunflower Sew Along album. See you back here tomorrow! 

 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 3

Hello, pirates! On day 3 we create the straps and sew the side seams. The Sunflower Swim top includes a full back and an open back option. The covered back straps are much shorter than the open back ones.

One of the most important tips I have for you for today is to not skip the elastic in the straps, regardless of which style swim top you chose. The straps are pretty much holding the rest of the suit in place. That, and the fact that swim fabric tends to “relax” in the water makes the straps elastic mandatory. 

You can serge the elastic to the wrong side of the straps as Judy has in her videos or you can zig zag it on, as I did. Optionally, you can top stitch the straps along the center. Just make sure you use a stretch stitch or a chain stitch for that.

Last steps for today are sewing the side seams of the main and then of the lining. If you opted fro the open back style, your main and lining will be a flat piece. For the closed back style, once you sew the side seams you will have two “loops”. 

In today’s video you can see how I create the open back straps and sew the side seams. Keep in mind that if you are doing the closed back option, the Sunflower pattern does include videos for that option as well. Once you finish today’s steps, post a picture of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of this Sew Along album. 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 2

Good morning and welcome to day 2 of our Sunflower Swim top SEW ALONG. Today we create the shelf bra, with or without the removable cups layer. If you are adding the cup pockets you will have 4 pieces for the front (one main, one lining, one inner lining and one shelf bra). If you are making the youth Sunflower  you will not have the cups option so your front will have 3 layers (main, lining and shelf bra).

This swim top can be sewn entirely with your sewing machine. If you own a serger and a coverstitch machine, some steps can be done with them. In my years of me-made swimsuit sewing and wearing I have found that swimwear created with the sewing machine tends to last longer than serged one. So my personal goal for this sew along is to utilize a zig zag and a triple stretch stitch 100% off the time. If you know me, you know that I am a huge serger/coverstitch fan so this is a big step 😉.

Tip: if you do not have 3/4″ swim elastic for today’s steps, you can use 1″ knit elastic in a pinch. Do keep in mind that swim elastic is treated to withstand chlorine water, while knit elastic is not,   

You can see in today’s video how I added the shelf bra to the lining, including the cup pockets. Once you complete all steps, snap a photo of your front lining and posted in the comments of Day 1 photo of this sew along album. You can find the album in the M4M & P4P sew along group on Facebook. 

 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

Sunflower Swim top SAL – day 1

Welcome to the Sunflower Swim Top Sew Along! 

Day One of the sew along is for purchasing the pattern and cutting the fabric. If you did not buy the patterns yet, stop by the Sew Along Facebook Group to find an exclusive coupon code. You can grab the adult Sunflower Top here. If you plan to sew for a little one,  the Youth Sunflower Swim Top  or the Bundle is what you need. If you are still undecided which style to make, our Round Up blog will give you an overview of all options included, plus a look at the Busy Bee swim bottoms. You can also use the Easy Hacks blog for added options. As a matter of fact, I will be making my SAL top inspired by Dana’s hack. 

Now that we have the patterns it’s time to select which method of using them you would like to do. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric. We also have an excellent P4P University that will give you the basics of using a projector instead of printing the pattern. I highly recommend reading it and watching the included video. 

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest and waist be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. P4P’s newest patterns come with videos throughout the tutorial, just click the link in the pattern to access them. 

For my Sunflower Swim Top I am using these cute Minnie Mouse inspired  Oh So Pretty swim knits. Oh So Pretty Custom Fabric is this sew along’s sponsor as well so our lucky winner will be receiving gift card to treat themself to their custom prints (must be a member in the OSP Facebook group to qualify). They stock solid swim fabric in retail as well. 

Judy made this very in depth video about various swim fabric, notions and how to accurately take your measurements to create the perfect custom swim suit. I highly encourage you to watch it:

TIP: write on your elastic where it will go (eg neckline elastic , armscye elastic, etc)

You can see day 1 video below. Once you cut all the fabric and elastics take a picture and post it in the comments of day 1 photo. This sew along album will be in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Facebook group. 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 1 | Cut fabric

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 2 | Shelf bra

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 3 | Straps and side seams

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 4 | Attach lining 

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 5 | Neckline and elastics

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 6 | Add ruffle/hem and finish swim top

Sunflower Swim Top SAL day 7 | Winners announcement

P4P University – Sewing with Swim

Hi, I’m Katy and I sew and blog for Patterns for Pirates. This post is all about sewing with swim fabrics. I first started sewing with swim fabric about five years ago, but I will admit that sewing swim spandex scared me and I did not think I would be able to do it! However, I am going to let you in on a secret, if you can sew with knit fabric you are going to be able sew with swim fabric! Swim spandex is now my favourite fabric to sew with. Making swimwear for both myself and my girls is such a satisfying experience.

Patterns for Pirates has great swimsuits patterns available with my favourite being the minute maillot. The fit is lovely and that low back option is super cute! And it is a quick sew too! I think it is a great pattern for starting out sewing with swim fabrics.

I actually use swim spandex for many other p4p sews, such as the sweetheart dress, gala gown, wiggle dress, hepburn top and dress, twist back top, pencil skirt, flutter wrap dress, fierce bra and peg legs to name a few.

Hepburn top (cropped and band added) and peg legs in performance swim spandex

Sweetheart peplum top in swim spandex and mesh

Flutter wrap dress in swim spandex

There are a lot of things to consider when choosing swim spandex:

  • The quality of the fabric makes a big difference to your project. The better the quality of the swim spandex, the easier it is to sew with; it will also mean your garment will wash and wear for longer too.
  • It is best for your swim fabric to have four-way stretch. This means the fabric is able to be stretched both horizontally and vertically which helps to make a comfortable and well fitted swimsuit.
  • Swim fabrics should be made of 100% man-made fibres such as polyester or nylon with a significant amount of spandex (10-20%). Polyester swim fabric will hold its shape better over time and I find it easier to sew with too.
  • Check if the print looks distorted when stretched on the body
  • Check how see through the fabric might become when stretched or wet.
  • I find it preferable to use a specific swim lining instead of the main swim fabric as the lining. I find it more comfortable to wear and easier to sew. Lining creates stability in the swimsuit and can smooth the body or allow better coverage on light coloured fabrics. Using lining can allow you to enclose seams too.
  • Choosing elastic for sewing swimsuits is also something to consider. Elastic needs to be able to withstand water, chlorine, salt and sun. Swim elastic is my preference because if I am going to the trouble of making a custom swimsuit I want the elastic to last. Rubber or clear elastic can also be used but I find it doesn’t last as well and can be trickier to sew with. But it does allow for less bulky seams. Pop over to a blog written by the lovely Dana to find out about elastics 101.

Swim fabrics require a special needle in your sewing machine. You can use a ballpoint needle, but I recommend a stretch needle for sewing seams and attaching elastic. Using one means less trouble with skipped stitches.

Example of the stretch sewing needles I use

When deciding what finishing stitch to use to topstitch elastics down or hemming swim fabric it is personal choice.

If you are lucky enough to have a cover-stitch machine for finishing your swimsuit that is ideal, but never fear because a stretch twin needle in your sewing machine will give similar professional finish too. It is  also quite common to use a zigzag stitch or triple zigzag stitch for topstitching on swim fabric (see photo below showing stitch examples).

The minute maillot swimsuit showing how top-stitching the elastic down on swimsuits looks using either a coverstitch machine or a stretch twin needle

Polyester thread is ideal for sewing with swim because it is not weakened by chlorine or salt water. Again quality of the thread does make a difference to the longevity of your swimsuit.

Cutting swim fabric can be tricky because it can be slippery. I like to use pattern weights because it helps to keep the fabric in place and a rotary cutter because it gives neat, crisp and accurate edges. Before cutting, I recommend that you place your fabric right side up. When doing this, take note of where the pattern will lie on the body and how it looks next to other prints. This will help to avoid an unfortunate print placement.

My cutting set up – fabric right side up, pattern weights and rotary cutter

If you like to use pins, make sure to choose fine ballpoint pins to avoid damaging the elastic fibres in the fabric and leaving holes in it. Clips are also another good choice when sewing swim as they are more gentle on the fabric and hold the fabrics in place well too. Whether you choose to use pins or clips is up to you.

                         

When you are sewing with swim for the first time, I recommend using lots of pins or clips. It helps keep the fabric in place and stops it slipping when sewing. If you are really having trouble getting the swim fabric to cooperate sometimes using a basting stitch can help hold things in place and it is easily removed should you make a mistake. Once basted, you can stitch the seam more easily and remove the basting stitch at the end.

                         

When sewing swim, I use a combination of my sewing machine, overlocker (serger) and cover-stitch machines. However, if you only have a sewing machine it is still totally achievable to make a handmade custom swimsuit. Swimsuits are designed with negative ease which means the pattern is slightly smaller than your measurements, so it fits firmly on the body and stretches to it. This means you need to use a stitch that has stretch to it, like a small zigzag, lightning stitch or triple stretch stitch.

These are examples below of some common stretch stitches I use on my sewing machine when sewing with swim fabric. Always use a piece of swim fabric scrap to test your chosen stitch; then stretch the sample to make sure it will be durable.

The ideal machine choice to sew seams together for swim is an overlocker (serger), so if you have one, I recommend you sew with it. However, my preferred technique for sewing seams together with swim fabric is to start with a triple stretch stitch. I like this stitch because it is strong (my girls can be rough on their swimsuits), but it is slower to sew. I then trim the seam allowance to ¼” and finish the seam with a 3-thread overlocking stitch. You can also use a 4-thread overlocking stitch to finish your seams if you prefer. Just make sure to get the tension correct otherwise your seams make not hold together well.

I love to use swim fabrics for making clothes, because it has a beautiful drape to it and it sits beautifully over the body too. Some people might find wearing clothes made from swim fabrics a little warmer in Summer, so I recommend making the pattern design feature to be sleeveless and with an unlined bodice if possible. Using swim spandex for peg legs is my absolute favourite thing to sew. It feels amazing to wear and smooths the body nicely too.

Peg Legs with Twist Back Top both in swim spandex

I hope you dive in and start sewing with swim. I know you are going to love it as much as I do. As with anything, all it takes is a little practice.

Happy Sewing

Katy x

X Factor Top and Dress Easy Hacks

 

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Mini or Peplum options

First easy hack that we waned to show you is how to shorten the X Factor dress to a peplum top or mini dress. For my example I decided to make a running dress with a mini skirt. I used swim fabric for this cute green dress.

You will start by grabbing the skirt pattern and marking your new cut lines, one for peplum and one for mini skirt. I used the Sweetheart dress skirt as my guide since that one includes all 3 option. The Sweetheart skirt is a full circle while the X Factor one is a half circle. Lay the X Factor pattern piece on top of the Sweetheart pattern matching the bottom edge. 

Mark the new cutting line starting with the “fold” edge. Using a French curve, or if you have a steady arm, just your hand, draw the two new curves. Make sure that you keep a constant distance from the bottom edge on both sides of the pattern. If you do not have the Sweetheart dress pattern you can measure 5″ up from the bottom for the Mini or 10.25″ up for the Peplum option. 

Once you created your new pattern piece, cut your fabric and sew the dress a instructed in the tutorial. I skipped hemming my swim skirt so mine final mini look is 1″ longer than intended. Your dress, your call! 😉

 

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Tie Back

Crop tops are back in a big way and the X Factor Crop is such a standout! It will take you from the gym to date night (if you’re not too sweaty, of course!)… there aren’t many garments that can do that!

The Patterns for Pirates team always loves to give you even more options. I’m so excited to share with you a tie-back hack for the X Factor! And, it really couldn’t be simpler.

Assemble and cut your preferred pattern pieces. For this make, I chose the cropped tank.

Modifications are so simple!

You will square up the cross-over pieces of the Front Bodice…


And cut 2 of the Back Band pieces (on the fold).

Assemble the top per the pattern instructions, stopping at the step for attaching the Back Band.

From here, you’ll attach your two band pieces, one to each end of the bodice cross-over.

At this step, I serged all of my edges. That is a matter of preference! You can leave them raw if you prefer.

Finally, finish all edges with a narrow hem.

Throw your top on, tie it up, and get ready to turn heads… no matter where you are! You can even experiment with tying and wrapping your top in different ways.

You’ve got the X Factor!!

  

 

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Separates

We couldn’t let this Easy Hacks series end without a separates option, especially since the top is already a stand alone pattern. So for the separated you just need to finish the skirt waist without attaching it to the top. You can do that in various ways. I opted for a simple waistband. I cut 2 of the back band pieces. After pressing them wrong sides together, open them back up and sew the two ends RST to create a loop. 

If your waistband piece has excellent recovery and stretch you can continue marking the quarter points. If you’re not sure, I would add 1-1.5″ wide elastic in the waistband to make sure it stays on throughout the day. 

Mark the skirt quarter point and pin the waistband to it matching said points. Attach the waistband using your favorite stretch stitch. All done. You just created a half circle skirt that pairs beautifully with the X Factor Crop top and not only. 

 

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Nursing friendly  

 

Last but certainly not least Djem is showing us how to modify the X Factor dress to make it nursing friendly. 

 
Prep the front bodice, add lightweight interfacing to the triangle notches. Complete the bodice per tutorial. 
Add elastic to the top of the front skirt using a zigzag stitch. Measure the top of the front skirt and multiply by 90% to get the elastic measurement. I found 1/2” and 3/8” wide elastic to work nicely. Optionally, serge the top of the skirt, without cutting anything off, to have a nicer finish. Continue with the tutorial for the pockets and sewing the skirt side seams. 
 
  Now the fun part! When attaching the skirt to the bodice, drop the front of the skirt at the side seams. 
 
 Find the center of the front skirt and mark. Sew the triangle notches on the bodice together with a stretch stitch. Pin or clip the bodice notches with the center of the front skirt. 
 Tack the bodice notches and skirt together. Keep your tack on the elastic. 
Voilà! 

New Pattern Releases :: Sunflower Swim Top + Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!

To help your summer go swimmingly well (ba-dum-ching!) we are bringing you a brand new set of swimwear tops and bottoms!  And we couldn’t be more excited about sharing them with you all.  In both adult and youth sizes, we are happy to introduce you to the Sunflower Swim Top and the Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!  For both of these patterns, the youth sizes range from 3m – 14.  And the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X!  If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

Okay, now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s start first by telling you all about the Sunflower Swim Top, shall we?

The Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will have your swimsuit drawer full in no time with a variety of looks! You can mix and match with your tops easily, depending on your mood or where and who you’re going swimming with!  In case you’re feeling like you want more coverage, you can grab the high rise and brief options.  But in the event that you’re feeling like baring it all for less obtrusive tan lanes…go for the cheeky and low rise. Or you can pick between those two with a mid-rise, which hits just below the belly button.  Mix in some ruching at the side seams for a fun detail. These bottoms are very simple and quick to make with the waistline and leglines hemmed under with swim elastic. You can also choose to partially line or fully line.

Options include: low rise, mid rise, high rise, cheeky booty cutline (adult only), brief booty cutline, ruched side seams, partially lined or fully lined.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like adding/removing length, complete sew ups of ruched, plain, partially and fully lined bottoms.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

SUNFLOWER BACK FINISHES

SUNFLOWER TOP HEMS

SUNFLOWER NECKLINES

BUSY BEE RISES

BUSY BEE LEG LINES (ADULT ONLY)

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of these swim separates!  The Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will be on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 5, 2020.

Don’t see the perfect bundle for the patterns you’d like to buy? Don’t forget you can always make your own bundle!

SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – YOUTH | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – BUNDLE
BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – YOUTH | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sunflower Swim Album | Busy Bee Swim Album | Sunflower Swim Youth Album | Busy Bee Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Sunflower Swim Top Easy Hacks Blog Post!

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