Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

X Factor Top and Dress Easy Hacks

 

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Mini or Peplum options

First easy hack that we waned to show you is how to shorten the X Factor dress to a peplum top or mini dress. For my example I decided to make a running dress with a mini skirt. I used swim fabric for this cute green dress.

You will start by grabbing the skirt pattern and marking your new cut lines, one for peplum and one for mini skirt. I used the Sweetheart dress skirt as my guide since that one includes all 3 option. The Sweetheart skirt is a full circle while the X Factor one is a half circle. Lay the X Factor pattern piece on top of the Sweetheart pattern matching the bottom edge. 

Mark the new cutting line starting with the “fold” edge. Using a French curve, or if you have a steady arm, just your hand, draw the two new curves. Make sure that you keep a constant distance from the bottom edge on both sides of the pattern. If you do not have the Sweetheart dress pattern you can measure 5″ up from the bottom for the Mini or 10.25″ up for the Peplum option. 

Once you created your new pattern piece, cut your fabric and sew the dress a instructed in the tutorial. I skipped hemming my swim skirt so mine final mini look is 1″ longer than intended. Your dress, your call! 😉

 

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Tie Back

Crop tops are back in a big way and the X Factor Crop is such a standout! It will take you from the gym to date night (if you’re not too sweaty, of course!)… there aren’t many garments that can do that!

The Patterns for Pirates team always loves to give you even more options. I’m so excited to share with you a tie-back hack for the X Factor! And, it really couldn’t be simpler.

Assemble and cut your preferred pattern pieces. For this make, I chose the cropped tank.

Modifications are so simple!

You will square up the cross-over pieces of the Front Bodice…


And cut 2 of the Back Band pieces (on the fold).

Assemble the top per the pattern instructions, stopping at the step for attaching the Back Band.

From here, you’ll attach your two band pieces, one to each end of the bodice cross-over.

At this step, I serged all of my edges. That is a matter of preference! You can leave them raw if you prefer.

Finally, finish all edges with a narrow hem.

Throw your top on, tie it up, and get ready to turn heads… no matter where you are! You can even experiment with tying and wrapping your top in different ways.

You’ve got the X Factor!!

  

 

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Separates

We couldn’t let this Easy Hacks series end without a separates option, especially since the top is already a stand alone pattern. So for the separated you just need to finish the skirt waist without attaching it to the top. You can do that in various ways. I opted for a simple waistband. I cut 2 of the back band pieces. After pressing them wrong sides together, open them back up and sew the two ends RST to create a loop. 

If your waistband piece has excellent recovery and stretch you can continue marking the quarter points. If you’re not sure, I would add 1-1.5″ wide elastic in the waistband to make sure it stays on throughout the day. 

Mark the skirt quarter point and pin the waistband to it matching said points. Attach the waistband using your favorite stretch stitch. All done. You just created a half circle skirt that pairs beautifully with the X Factor Crop top and not only. 

 

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Nursing friendly  

 

Last but certainly not least Djem is showing us how to modify the X Factor dress to make it nursing friendly. 

 
Prep the front bodice, add lightweight interfacing to the triangle notches. Complete the bodice per tutorial. 
Add elastic to the top of the front skirt using a zigzag stitch. Measure the top of the front skirt and multiply by 90% to get the elastic measurement. I found 1/2” and 3/8” wide elastic to work nicely. Optionally, serge the top of the skirt, without cutting anything off, to have a nicer finish. Continue with the tutorial for the pockets and sewing the skirt side seams. 
 
  Now the fun part! When attaching the skirt to the bodice, drop the front of the skirt at the side seams. 
 
 Find the center of the front skirt and mark. Sew the triangle notches on the bodice together with a stretch stitch. Pin or clip the bodice notches with the center of the front skirt. 
 Tack the bodice notches and skirt together. Keep your tack on the elastic. 
Voilà! 

New Pattern Releases :: Sunflower Swim Top + Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!

To help your summer go swimmingly well (ba-dum-ching!) we are bringing you a brand new set of swimwear tops and bottoms!  And we couldn’t be more excited about sharing them with you all.  In both adult and youth sizes, we are happy to introduce you to the Sunflower Swim Top and the Busy Bee Swim Bottoms!  For both of these patterns, the youth sizes range from 3m – 14.  And the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X!  If you haven’t sewn with us in a while, please make sure to check the size charts, as there were slight adjustments made to accommodate the new size range for adults.

Okay, now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s start first by telling you all about the Sunflower Swim Top, shall we?

The Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will have your swimsuit drawer full in no time with a variety of looks! You can mix and match with your tops easily, depending on your mood or where and who you’re going swimming with!  In case you’re feeling like you want more coverage, you can grab the high rise and brief options.  But in the event that you’re feeling like baring it all for less obtrusive tan lanes…go for the cheeky and low rise. Or you can pick between those two with a mid-rise, which hits just below the belly button.  Mix in some ruching at the side seams for a fun detail. These bottoms are very simple and quick to make with the waistline and leglines hemmed under with swim elastic. You can also choose to partially line or fully line.

Options include: low rise, mid rise, high rise, cheeky booty cutline (adult only), brief booty cutline, ruched side seams, partially lined or fully lined.

Enjoy several videos throughout the tutorial like adding/removing length, complete sew ups of ruched, plain, partially and fully lined bottoms.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started!  As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.  And for even more helpful fun, we have a *free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a quick look at the different options and features!

SUNFLOWER BACK FINISHES

SUNFLOWER TOP HEMS

SUNFLOWER NECKLINES

BUSY BEE RISES

BUSY BEE LEG LINES (ADULT ONLY)

What are you waiting for?  Head on over and grab yourself a copy of these swim separates!  The Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms will be on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, July 5, 2020.

Don’t see the perfect bundle for the patterns you’d like to buy? Don’t forget you can always make your own bundle!

SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – YOUTH | SUNFLOWER SWIM TOP – BUNDLE
BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – YOUTH | BUSY BEE SWIM BOTTOMS – BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase?  Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Sunflower Swim Album | Busy Bee Swim Album | Sunflower Swim Youth Album | Busy Bee Youth Album

If you’re looking for even more options, we show you a few more ways you can use this pattern in our Sunflower Swim Top Easy Hacks Blog Post!

Sunflower and Busy Bee Easy Hacks

It’s swimsuit season! The new Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms are the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. Dana is showing you below how to make a longer ruffle while Rachel is taking the Sunflower Top and making is shorter. Enjoy these cute easy hacks! 

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Longer Ruffle

This is a really easy hack if you want a little extra tummy coverage or just want the look of a longer ruffle. 

Cut out all your pattern pieces as usual but when you come to the ruffle you will cut it a little differently. First of all you will want to decide how wide you want your ruffle to be.

I measured the original piece which is 2 inches wide and I decided that I wanted to increase this to 5 inches wide.

I simply laid my perspex quilting ruler out over the pattern piece and used it to help cut out the original length and the increased width. 

Here is my finished ruffle.  Measuring 5 inches wide, in comparison to the original pattern piece.

Then just sew it together as usual. Easy peasy! 

Happy sewing! Love, Dana x

 

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Shorter Top

Forget the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-yellow-polka-dot bikini… bananas are so much more fun!

Here’s how you modify the pattern for Sunflower Swim Top if you’d like to sport a shorter length. You’ll be modifying the pattern pieces, but the actual construction of the top will follow the pattern instructions as written.

You’ll need the front and back pattern pieces and the shelf bra pattern piece.

With both the front and the back pieces, it is most important to preserve the curves at the bottom of the pieces. You’ll see how I did that in the pictures provided.

Cut the back piece into thirds as indicated in the photo below. You’ll be discarding the center piece.

Take the top and bottom thirds and line up the bottoms of the cut-out curve, where you see the green line in the pic. Tape together. I added a little snipe of paper, where the green circle is, to help visually with cutting my fabric.

And that completes your new back pattern piece.

Line up your front and back pattern pieces and mark the bottom of the back piece on your front piece. This will ensure that your front and back pieces line up when you’re constructing the top.

Place your shelf bra pattern piece on top of your front pattern piece and line up the “fold” edges. The left edge of the shelf bra piece should intersect the mark you made on the previous step.

Trace the bottom edge of the shelf bra and cut along this line to create your new front piece.

Once you have your pattern pieces ready, construct your top with the instructions provided. You can even work in a shelf bra at this length if you desire.

Isn’t sewing for yourself so much fun? I can’t wait to rock these bananas at the pool!

 

Rachel

Which one of these hacks will you try first? As always, post your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group so we all get a chance to admire them. 

Fierce Bra and Undies – Easy Hacks

Ahoy, pirates! In true P4P fashion we could not let the DOUBLE release happen without showing you some simple hacks for your new Fierce Undies and Bra. All these simple mods can be applied to both our adult and youth pattern.

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Undies with bands

   

I love the new Fierce Undies. They feel so amazing! But I know sometimes I prefer a knit waistband instead of elastic. So today I will be showing you how to hack a knit waistband on the Fierce Undies.

 

The first thing I did was cut and assemble the pattern according to the pattern. Then I measured the top of the undies to see how wide it is.

Now here is the formula I used to the band width: (undies width X 2)+1 X 80%. I like to use 80% because I like my band a little smaller but not too tight. Here is a picture of my measurements. 

So my finished number is 24.8. So I cut my band at 4” tall and 24.8 wide. I cut my band 4” high because I like the 2” thickness. I fold my band short ends together and sew.

Then I fold it again raw edges together.

 

Now I quarter the band and undies, then I put the band over the undies with right sides together matching the quarter marks.

Sew the band on, top stitch if desired.

Now you have a knit and Fierce undies! 

 

 

 

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Undies with picot lace

Nicole will show us how to add picot trim to the leg opening soon!

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Bra with knit biding

For this hack, we will be using knit to create a binding instead of fold over elastic (FOE). This is a a great hack to use if you don’t have any FOE on hand or if you want your binding to be a cute print or exact match of one of your fabrics.
To get started, cut out the three 2” strap pieces using the width measurements as indicated in the elastic cut chart according to your size. Optional: serge along the long edges for additional stability. Then, press all three binding pieces into 1/2” strips: Fold pieces in half, press, open back up, then bring raw edges to meet at the center crease, press, fold in half, press.
Open up your binding neckline piece, match the center point of binding (right side) to the center point of the neckline (lining side). Stretching slightly, stitch along the neckline using a stretch stitch and a 1/2” seam allowance (along the first crease).
Finger press binding and seam allowance up, then re-fold the binding in the same manner as done previously to get a 1/2″ strip. Re-fold the entire strip to form your straps and pin/clip in place. Stitch using a stretch stitch along the entire binding to close and finish the binding/straps.
Continue with pattern instructions for construction. Repeat binding steps with outside straps: be sure your binding pieces are open before stitching the ends together when getting started on the outside straps.
 
and now you have your own custom knit binding! <3
(bra pictured has elastic band attached differently than pattern)
Lacy

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Youth bra with cups

My daughter is getting to be that age that she wants just a bit more coverage and loves all her ready to wear sports bras that come with padded cups. The first thing that she asked me about the new fierce bra is if it had cups and I said no but not to worry I could add them for her.  This hack is super easy and the construction does not change at all!  Let’s get started!

First we are going to trace off our front piece, next we need to create an opening for our cups to slide into.  I used my french curve but you can certainly free hand a curve similar to what I have shown here.  I just estimated how big to make it, it does not need to be to big, you want to be able to easily slide a cup in and out of it.  Next cut away the line you drew on your piece, this will now be your lining piece. You will cut one main front and one lining from your newly created piece.

Your construction will stay exactly the same, you will just have the curves in your lining piece.  I choose not to finish the edges of my curves as I was using a really nice quality athletic fabric but you can always finish that edge with your serger or with a narrow hem on your sewing machine.  Once finished you will be able to slide in cups, I just grabbed a set from my daughters ready to wear bras but you can also buy bra cups and cut them down to fit.  My daughter is only 10 and really doesn’t need them to add any type of support she just likes the extra coverage so really any cheap cups from Amazon will do the trick and are easy to cut to size.

All done and my girl is happy to have a bra made to fit her perfectly

Angela

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Undies with lace band

Up next I wanted to show you another way to add a waistband to the Fierce Undies. Instead of the 3/4″-1.5″ waistband elastic you can use stretch lace. I used 1″ for my example but 1.5″ would work beautifully as well. Start by cutting your pattern as instructed but cut stretch lace instead of elastic.

Sew the short ends of the lace to form a loop. You may find it easier to use a piece of water soluble stabilizer between the machine’s feed dogs and the lace so as to deter your machine from trying to “eat” your fabric.

Sew the undies as instructed in the tutorial. Pin the lace at the top, overlapping 3/8″. The wrong side of the lace will be against the right side of the undies. Sew in place using a zig zag stitch of a coverstitch.

Tadah!  Done! You just added one more option to the Fierce Undies.

Judy is rocking a pair of Fierce Undies with a 2″ lace band.

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Swim suit

Last but certainly not least we want it to show you how easy it is to make  Fierce Swimsuit. You will need:

  • swim suit fabric
  • swim lining (or solid swim like I used)
  • 1″ swim elastic for the waistband and under bust band
  • 3/8″ swim elastic for the leg openings and bra straps
  • optionally power mesh and cups (I have not used them on mine)

Start by cutting you undies front and back pieces from swim, the liner from solid swim or lining. Cut the waistband 3″ by the length of the waistband elastic (from the cutting chart) plus 1″ for the seam allowance. Cut the 1″ swim elastic the length of the waistband elastic from the chart. Now cut the bra pieces, making sure that the under bust band is 3″ wide by the length of the elastic plus 1″ seam allowance. You will also need to enclose swim elastic in the bra straps so you will but binding strips that are 1.5″ wide by the length of the pattern straps pieces.

Sew the undies and side of the bra (and lining) as instructed in the tutorial. Now let’s make the waistband and the bra under bust band. Same technique…butt the ends of the elastic together and sew with a wide zig zag stitch. Overlap the band with the right sides together and sew it in a loop using 1/2″ seam allowance. Insert the elastic inside and put pins or clips at the quarter mark. Put the bands aside for now.

Hem the legs of the undies as in the pattern. The only difference will be that you will be using swim elastic for the briefs and thong, no elastic for the cheekies. Take your swim elastic and baste it to one edge of each of the bra straps.

Attach the bra straps binding as Lacy is showing you in the hack above.

All you have left to do is add the waistband and under bust band that you prepared earlier. Mark the 4 quarters of the undies waist and under bust opening. Add the respective band matching the quarter points. Sew them with your serger or a triple stretch stitch. Optionally, top stitch.

All done! You just added one more swim suit to your collection. You can use the same tips for both the youth and the adult pattern.

We hope you enjoyed these spins on the new Fierce Undies and Fierce Bra pattern. Don’t forget to share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group or tag us on Instagram @patternsforpirates.

 

Minute Maillot SAL – day 7 (winners announcement)

Absolutely beautiful job this week, friends! We have see and admired so many gorgeous Minute Maillot swim suits that made our decision a very difficult one to  make. Without keeping you waiting any longer…

Congratulations Karolina Linden!

Karolina won a $20 store credit to Patterns for Pirates and a $25 Gift Card from Boho Fabrics.

As always, we have two winners:

Great job, Megan Marie!

Megan will receive a $20 store credit to Made for Mermaids and a $25 Gift Card from Boho Fabrics.

A huge thank you to Emily from Boho Fabrics who sponsored the Minute Maillot SAL and also provided the fabric I used for my swim suit.

Colleen will be letting you all know the pattern we will be sewing together in August soon.

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

Minute Maillot SAL – day 6 ( finish arms, legs and neckline)

We made it to the last day of the Sew Along!! You’ve all been doing amazing this past week. All we have left to do (for both the youth and adult Minute Maillot) is to finish the arms, legs and neckline opening. This consists of three steps, sewing the elastic in a loop, attaching the elastic to the opening and hemming.

Tip: Write on each elastic where you will be adding it, eg: arm. This way you make sure you don’t accidentally add an arm elastic to the leg opening.

I highly recommend sewing the elastic with a wide zig zag stitch to minimize bulk. If you prefer using your serger for this step, you can. It’s just not my first choice. When hemming I love using a wide coverstitch with wooly or bulky nylon in the looper. If that is not an option, a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine will work just as well.

You did it!! All you have to do now is post a picture of your finished Minute Maillot swim suit (modeled or not) in the comments of the day 6 photo of this sew along’s album. Reminder, only photos posted in the comments of DAY 6 photo will qualify for the prize. You are most definitely welcome to share on the wall as well (the SAL group and P4P group). Good luck!

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

Minute Maillot SAL – day 5 (sew side and crotch seams)

Almost there! Today the project will take swim suit shape when we stitch the side seams and the bottom seam. woohoo! 🙂 Grab your lining and main swim and let’s get started!

If you are making the partially lined version then your lining side seams are already sewn from day 3. For the fully lined option you will lay the lining and main fabric similar to the way you did the shoulder seams yesterday. ALWAYS triple check with the pattern instruction before stitching the side and crotch seam to make sure all layers are placed correctly.

Ruffles 

If you added ruffles to your little one’s Minute Maillot today you are adding them to the swim suite. I recommend using a disappearing pen like the Frixion to mark the placement of the ruffles.

Tip: use a Wash away Wonder Tape to keep your ruffles in place when while sewing them on with a zig zag stitch. It will not gum up your needles and as soon as the suit hits the water it will disappear.

Here is day 5’s video. Take a look and once you finish sewing the side and crotch seam, snap a picture of your progress and post it in the comments of day 5 photo of the MM sew along album.

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

Minute Maillot SAL – day 4 (sew shoulder seams)

Good morning, friends! Today is a short, quick sewing day. We are only sewing the shoulder seams. You can do this step on your sewing machine using a triple stretch stitch or a lightning bolt stitch or you can use your serger.

The most important thing is to layer the pieces exactly as instructed in the tutorial. This is imperative to ensure that the seam allowance in enclosed and feels comfortable against your skin. If you are adding the bust lining AND full lining you will have 6 layers at the shoulder seam, instead of 4.

Below is today’s video. Once you finish your steps post a picture in the comments of day 4 photo of the Minute Maillot SAL album in the Sew Along group.

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

Minute Maillot SAL – day 3 ( sew bust lining / prepare ruffles)

Ahoy, pirates! On day 3 of our sew along we sewing the bust lining if you are making the adult Minute Maillot and/or prepping the ruffles if you are doing the youth swim suit. You will need the bust lining if you do not want to fully line your MM or if you want to add cups to a fully lined one.

Bust lining

Note: If you are sewing the low back option you will have 3 pieces for the bust lining, one for the front and two mirrored ones for the back. For the mid and high back the bust lining is only two pieces, one front and one back.

For extra support, I have decided to add cups to my bust lining. The cups should be sewn to the wrong side of the bust lining, this way when worn, they will be sandwiched between the main print and the lining.

Ruffles

Tip: When gathering the ruffles use two rows of stitching 1/4″ away from each other. This will yield uniform gatherings and a “back up” should the one of the stitching break.

Take a look over the day three video below and post  picture of your progress in the comments of day 3  picture of the Minute Maillot SAL album.

 

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

Minute Maillot SAL – day 2 (cut fabric and gather supplies)

Welcome to day 2 of our Minute Maillot sew along. Today we will be choosing the fabric, cutting it and gathering all necessary notions. To make the MM you will need swim fabric, lining, swim elastic and optionally power mesh or swim cups.

Judy made this very in depth video about various swim fabric, notions and how to accurately take your measurements to create the perfect custom swim suit. I highly encourage you to watch it:

For my Minute Maillot I decided to go with a gorgeous nylon swim I got from Boho Fabrics. I will be making the low back, mid front, high leg option with a bust lining. I am using solid black swim, also from Boho, for lining and cotton swim elastic for the arms, legs and neckline.

The Day 2 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of your prepped fabric in the comments of the Day 2 photo of the SOS SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group.

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 1

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 2

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 3

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 4

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 5

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 6

Minute Maillot SAL | Day 7

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