Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

Wiggle Dress – easy hacks

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Separates

The full-length mermaid-esque dress is gorgeous, but maybe you want to pair it with a different top or choose different fabrics?  With this simple hack, you can create a gorgeous set and wear them as separates.  For the skirt, cut along the crop cutline.  Stitch the center back seam and each side seam.  Using the cropped band measurement and instructions, attach to the top edge of the skirt.  Easy peasy!

How cute is Katy in this Ariel inspired Haloween outfit!

And seriously, how amazing is this sequin skirt!!

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Color-Block Bodice

Keeping with the concept of separates, but perhaps you still wanted a dress. Doing a color-block bodice gives you a chance to mix up your fabrics. Since there is already a crop cutline on the pattern pieces that hits at the natural waist, we will be using that as a guideline. Re-trace the crop cutline 1/2″ above and below it to create your seam allowance on both the front and back pattern pieces.  Cut your new top bodice and bottom skirt from both front and back.  For the back, you will have 2 back top bodices (mirror image) and 2 back bottom skirt (mirror image) pieces.  For assembly, with right sides together, stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance the front bodice to the front skirt. Repeat for both back bodice and skirt pieces.  Continue construction as provided int he pattern. 🙂

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Decorative Button Back

Adding embellishments to your dress can give it some extra special details that will set it apart from the next.  Since the pattern is drafted for stable knits, you do not need a zipper or functional buttons to put it on, so these buttons are purely for decorative reasons.  I love the finishing touch it gives the back. Using the center back seam as a guideline, I hand stitched pearl buttons every 1/2″.  I used the zipper lengths as mentioned in the tutorial as a guide where to end my button placement.  For this version, I used a total of 13 buttons. ”

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Straps for off the shoulder

Love the off the shoulder but hate wearing strapless bras? No problem! Let’s add some cute straps to the Wiggle off the shoulder dress that will cover your bra straps. Print the off the shoulder option of the pattern and sew it up as per the pattern tutorial. Stop at the neckline finishing steps. Cut two pieces of fabric 4″x 9.5″. These will be your straps. The length of your straps may vary slightly based on the size you make.

Fold the straps lengthwise and sew them side with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn the straps inside out and press them with the seam in the center.

For perfect straps placement, try the dress on with your favorite bra. Mark with a pin or a clip where the bra straps will be.

Sew the straps to the dress with the right sides together. Finish the neckline as per the pattern tutorial.

That’s all! You now have yet a new style of the new Wiggle dress!

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Sleeveless

The Wiggle Dress is already packed with soo many options and great for every season but I don’t know about anyone else but summer here is HOT!! I can not handle any type of sleeves at all so a sleeveless version of the Wiggle dress would be what I would want for summer and lucky for me it is a really quick and easy hack.  Let’s get started.

First, you are going to cut all your pieces except for your sleeves.  You do not need to modify the armscye at all for this hack so just cut your front and back as usual.  Sew the shoulder seams and side seams as directed in the pattern, but skip the section for adding a sleeve.   Next, you will iron and pin your armscye to the wrong side 1/2″ inch as shown below. Topstitch using your favorite stretch stitch.

 

Now just finish up the dress or top as instructed in the pattern and you’re done. Quick, right!?

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Full Zipper Back

As soon as I saw the Wiggle dress I knew I had to make a full zipper back! So I took it up a notch and bought a dual zipper. This style zipper opens at the top and bottom. You can add this zipper to the high back, low back or even the off the shoulder option as well as the above, bellow or midi length. Just make sure the zipper you use is long enough! As a point of reference, I used a 48″ zipper for the high back, midi length style.

Start by marking the hem on the center back seam.

Add a strip of 1/4″ Wonder Tape to the center back seam, 1.4″ away from the edge. Start at the point you marked above and stop 1/2″ away from the top.

Repeat with the other back piece.

Remove the paper backing of the Wonder tape and adhere the zipper right sides together. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Zip up the zipper and place the other side of the back piece, right sides together, making sure that the bottom and top match.

Sew in place and top stitch.

Now that you have your back piece ready, sew the dress as per the tutorial. You will be enclosing the zipper in the bottom hem as shown below.

All done! Now all you have to decide is where the next date night will be! 🙂

 

I loved the idea of a full-length zipper like Alex showed us above, but when it came to finding one locally, I wasn’t able to get one the length I needed.  I did find a chunky zipper that would be perfect to use as an exposed zipper and just so happened to work out that it’s finished length was about knee length.  I opted to go with the midi length and do a split hem at the center back.  You will install your zipper the same as you would in the tutorial, except place it on the RIGHT side of the fabric with the wrong side of the zipper centered along the back seam.

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Lace Applique

I’ll be honest, Judy created this dress while we were pre-testing and I had to replicate it.  Adding a lace applique is super easy but adds a super sexy and classic flair.  For this particular version, the lace extends along the entire side seam, so I constructed my bodice first, added the lace to the top, then sewed my sleeves on so that the lace was enclosed in the armscye.  You can, of course, add lace wherever you’d prefer, such as the neckline or bottom hem but I love the silhouette the wide stripe gave from the front and back.   I used a fairly narrow zig-zag stitch down the center seam and along each edge of the stretch lace trim.  Be sure to keep your lace taut as you sew along the waist and hip curves.

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Front Leg Slit

What sexy dress doesn’t include a slit!  Show off those legs and add a front slit to your wiggle.

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Sweetheart/Wiggle Mash

We couldn’t end this epic hacks series without a Wiggle dress/Sweetheart mash up. I just had to make myself a black velvet and lace long dress. We all need one in our closets, right?

This mash is super easy. Simply take the front patterns of the wiggle dress and mark the sweetheart color-block lines using the Sweetheart dress top pattern piece. Don’t forget to add the seam allowance!

Sew the two front pieces (lace and velvet) as suggested in the Sweetheart pattern.

Once you do that simply follow the directions in the Wiggle Dress pattern to finish your dress. I used lace for my sleeves too. Since I didn’t have any black elastic and I certainly couldn’t use white elastic for the neckline, I used clear elastic instead. It worked like a charm!

Tadah! Just by adding a sexy sweetheart color block front, you took your Wiggle dress up a notch!

Holy Moly…. I think we covered just about every hack we could come up with to take The Wiggle Dress to the next level (if it wasn’t already on its own)!  Make a Wiggle? Hop on over to the Facebook Group, and share your makes, we’d love to see it!

Walk the Plank – easy hacks

Ahoy, pirates! Hope you grabbed your FREE Walk the Plank pajama pants patterns by now. If not you can get them here. Today I wanted to show you how easy it is to add patch pockets to the pattern so all those husbands, boyfriends and sons of ours will be even happier with their new PJ pants. I’ll also show you how to enclose the the elastic in the seam.

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Front patch pockets

Start by printing the WTP pattern piece in the size needed. Now grab your Papa Bear Joggers (Mama Bear or Baby Bear) pants pattern and print only the page(s) that include the Patch Pocket. You now have two pattern pieces, the pants and the pocket. Cut the leg fabric (two mirrored images) and 4 pocket pieces (2 mirrored images for the main and 2 for the lining). The PJ pants pattern is drafted for woven fabric. I did use knit instead…you can do that too if you want!

Take your pockets and place them right side together. Sew around the edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving 2-3″ opening so we can turn the pocket.

Clip the corners and snip the curve of the pocket as close to the seam as possible (without clipping the stitch). Turn your pocket inside out a press very well. Repeat with the other pocket.

Top stitch only the pocket curve opening.

Take the pants pattern piece and place it right side up. Fold the pants so the inseam matches making sure the front is on top. Measure 4″ down from the waist edge and 1 inch away from the side fold. Place the pocket as in the picture below and pin in place.

Note: you will need to adjust these measurements if you are making the kids Walk the Plank pj pants.

Sew the pocket to the pants making sure you leave the pocket curve open. You will only be sewing around the 5 straight edges. Repeat for the other leg.

That’s it! You added patch pockets to the pajama pants. Simply continue to construct the pattern as per the tutorial and enjoy a new pair of PJs WITH POCKETS!

 

 

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Back patch pocket

Next I want to show you how to add a back pocket to your Walk the Plank PJ pants. This hack is even easier and it does not require any additional P4P patterns. Simply cut one rectangular piece of the same fabric or a coordinating one. The size of the rectangle will vary depending on how big you would like the pocket. I cut my piece 5″ wide by 6″ tall and I am making a size 6 PJ pants.

Optionally, you can serge around the edges to prevent fraying in the wash.

Fold the top of the pocket 1″ down, press and sew in place.

Now fold the other three sides 1/2″ and give it a good press. Do not sew them just yet.

Take your pants pattern piece and with the right side out, match the inseam. Place it on the table with the back facing up. The back part of the pants is the one with the higher rise.

Place the pocket approximately 3″ down from the rise. Note that this placement will vary from size to size so I encourage you to baste in place insead of sewing in place if you are not sure if you’ll like where the pocket sits.

Edge sew the pocket to the pants (or baste) making sure you do not sew the top but only the bottom and the sides of the pocket.

Continue sewing the PJ pants as per the pattern tutorial and enjoy you new pair of back pocket Walk the Plank pants. 🙂

NOTE: If you basted the pocket, try the pants on! If you like where the pocket sits, stitch it in place. IF you don’t, you can easily remove the pasting stitches and relocate the pocket before you sew it in place.

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Enclosed elastic waistband

Next up I would like to show you how to enclose the elastic in the waist so you do not have any visible serged edges. Sew your PJ pants as indicated in the tutorial. Press the top of the pants 1/4″ down in order to create a memory hem.

NOTE: this method will yield a rise that will be 1/4″ lower than the original pattern.

Sew the elastic in a loop (as per the pattern) and mark the quarters with pins or clips. Find the quarters of the waist opening and match the elastic quarter points to them, placing the top of the elastic 1/4″ of an inch down from the top of the pants. Use the memory crease mark as a guide.

Sew the elastic with a a zig zag stitch.

Fold the top top of pants down. This may be a tricky process since you will have to stretch the elastic as you go. Take it slowly and press!

Fold the elastic down and pin in place. You will again need to stretch the elastic so you might find it easier to skip pinning and just use your hand to hold it in place when you sew.

Sew as close to the edge as you can, stretching the elastic  to make sure the fabric lays flat when you stitch it.

There you have it…. an enclosed elastic for your new PJ pants!

Hope you found these easy hacks helpful. Don’t forget to show your creations in the P4P group! We love to see what you make for you and your loved one.

Brunch Blouse – easy hacks

In true P4P fashion, we have a few easy, fun hacks for the Brunch Blouse. Grab the pattern here and get creating!

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Color Block Dress

First off I will show you how to achieve a color block look with the dress option of the Brunch Blouse. You can use the same principles for the top option, you will just need to adjust some measurements. Start by printing the pattern in the size you need. Now grab a ruler and some scissors or a rotary cutter (for paper only 😉 ) because we’ll do some cutting.

Take the front pattern piece and mark 1.5″ down from where the dart mark is. Now draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to the center fold). Measure the distance between this line and the bottom of the dress.

Divide the length in half and draw a horizontal line at the half way mark. You have now split the front in 3 separate pieces.

Measure the side seam from the bottom to the bottom colorblock line. Take your back piece and measure up on the side seam the same amount and mark it. Now draw a horizontal line on the back piece. We will be measuring the front middle part side seam now. Mark the point on the back piece from the bottom colorblock line to whatever the measurement was for the middle front side piece. Draw a horizontal line front that marking point. You have now color blocked your back pattern pieces too, making sure that they will line up beautifully with the front color block pieces. Great job!

We will now cut the fabric. DO NOT FORGET THE SEAM ALLOWANCE! Since we are only dealing with straight color blocking lines, I will show you the easiest way to add SA. Simply use a quilter’s ruler and cut away 1/2 from the newly designed pattern pieces. Remember you need to add seam allowance only to the colorblock parts, NOT the center fold or side and middle back seam. Those seam allowances are already included in the pattern.

Once you have all your pieces cut (3 for the front, 6 for the back) you will start sewing them together. First sew the front top to the front middle (RST) with 1/2″ seam allowance, serger your raw edges and optionally top stitch. You will now sew the front bottom to the front middle, right sides together. You now have your front piece ready. Repeat the process for the back pieces. Remember that the back of the Brunch Blouse is not cut on fold so you will end up with two mirrored back cuts.

Finish sewing your BB dress as per the tutorial instruction. How easy and fun was that? You can get creative with your color blocking…just imagine a beautiful ombre blouse, or a blouse with lace overlay for the top colorblock. The possibilities are endless.

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Belt Loops and Sash Hack

This hack is super easy but a fun option for a different look than the normal Brunch Blouse!  You can do this hack with any option except the one that already includes the waist tie.

1. First, sew up your blouse/dress as usual.  Make sure to mark the notches on the side seams, add a pin as well after you’ve sewn the side seams so that you can still see where the notch is.

2. To make the sash, refer to this cut chart based on your size.  Cut two.

 

 

 

 

 

3. Right sides together, sew the short ends together.  Press open and finish edges.

 

4. Right sides together, sew the long edges now, but leave 2″ unsewn in the middle.  This is how you’ll turn it right side out when you’re done.

 

5. Iron the short edge over to form a triangle.  Now sew here to make the pointed edge, and trim the seam allowance down to 1/2″.

 

6. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch as close to the edge as you feel comfortable.  When you get to the 2″ you left open, align the seam allowance inside and and stitch shut while topstitching.

 

7. For the belt loops, first decide if you want two or three.  I opted for two because I didn’t want one on the back (I just don’t like the feeling).

8. Cut rectangles 3″ x 1.5″ – four for two belt loops or six for three belt loops.

 

9. Stitch along the long edges, right sides together.  Then trim seam allowance to 1/4″.

 

10. Turn right side out, press short raw edges to the back 1/2″. then topstitch down the long edges as close to the edge as you feel comfortable.

 

11. Find the notch on the blouse side seams you marked earlier.  Sew the loops on to the side seams, over the notch, by topstitching the short side 1/4″ from the edge.  If you’d like a loop on the back too, find the middle of the back neckline and use a ruler to find the center back of the blouse from there and attach.

 

12.  Press everything one last time.  Slip in your sash into the loops and wear your new blouse!

~Elisabeth

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Front Zipper Hack

 

 

This is a little more intense and involves one of those scary things… you know, a zipper!  Now, if you’ve never installed a zipper this may be a little daunting, but I promise, take it slow, you can do this!

I am using a 7″ (I think?) exposed metal zipper but you can choose your preferred length if you want it shorter or longer.  If you’re choosing this option, do this prior to any other step in completing your top.  So now, let’s get started.

There you have it!  I hope that wasn’t as difficult as it appears.  If you’re not sure you’re ready to tackle the zipper on your top, try it on a few scrap pieces first.  Practice makes perfect right?

 

We hope you enjoyed the hacks as much as we did.   Don’t forget to share your makes in the Facebook Group, we’d love to see them!  Happy Sewing!

Choker Neckline Hack

 

Choker necklines are all the rage right now, so we thought we’d give you the “how-to” so you can add it to your most loved top.  I used the Favorite Tee since it already has a V-neck option but you can really use any of our t-shirt patterns and add a lower scoop neck or v-neck to it.

Once you have decided your pattern and cut your pieces, do not assemble your shirt!  We need to finish the V-neckline first and is easier to do prior to construction.  I chose to bind the V-neck, but you could also use a traditional neckband if you wish.  (Need more help with knit binding? Check out our tips HERE)

 

Next, construct and finish your shirt as indicated in the tutorial, but do not use the existing neckband instructions.  We will now finish the choker portion of the neckline.

I did not want the choker neckband piece to be too high on my neck, so used the Women’s Henley as a guide for placement. You can make your own adjustments if you prefer to have it higher or lower. Place a pin or mark on the neckline where you wish to have the choker band.

 

We are going to use the same binding method as we did the v-neck to finish the choker band.  My binding strip is 2.5″ and finishes about 1″.  Again, this is customizable and if you wish to have a thicker or thinner choker piece, adjust the height of your band accordingly.  (just be sure to add 1/2″ to the height as we will be folding and enclosing the raw edges).

To determine the width of your choker binding:  A + ((B x 2) x 90%)).  For example, my measurement A is 8″. Measurement B is 8″. So my choker band is 8″ + 14.4 (or 8 x 2 then x 90%) = 22.4″ .  To make it a nice even number I just rounded it out to 22.5″.

 

Voila!  You’re all finished.   🙂

 

Tips for adding a woven skirt to a knit bodice

Ahoy, pirates! The Summer of Wovens is in full swing so I wanted to show you how easy it is to add a gathered woven skirt to a knit bodice. You can use this technique to the Boundless dress, like I have, or the Sunshine dress. If you love the bodice of the Sweetheart dress as much as I do you can use it and hack it with a woven gathered skirt too.

The most important thing to keep in mind when adding a woven skirt is CHOOSING THE RIGHT WOVEN fabric. Make sure to use a light weight fabric with great drape. I used a Nicole Miller chiffon and it worked beautifully. You can also use rayon, rayon challis  or crepe georgette. Avoid quilters cotton, it will look stiff and add visual width which we don’t want. Am I right, ladies? 😉

Cut the pieces as per the pattern. You do not need to size up or down, just be sure to measure yourself and choose the size based on that. I do recommend adding some width to the skirt for more comfortable wear. I did not add it to mine but you can certainly increase width by a couple of inches. You can see how to take your measurements here.

Sew the bodice as per the pattern tutorial. I marked the center of the front skirt piece and the back. I like to use clear elastic when I attach the skirt to the bodice. I do that for two reasons, the clear elastic will add stability to the seam and it will help you gather your skirt evenly. Simply cut a piece of elastic that matches the bodice bottom. Don’t forget to add seam allowance! I prefer to cut just one piece and match the elastic seam to the center back but if you prefer to cut two pieces and match the seams to the sides you’re welcome to do that as well.

Mark the quarters of the clear elastic. Mark the side seams and center back and front of the skirt. Remember to mark the to of the skirt if you’re using a fabric with a directional print 🙂

Match the quarters of the skirt to the quarters of the elastic.

Sew the clear elastic to the top of the skirt. Use a zig zag stitch and adjust the tension and width to better fit the type of fabric you are using. Stretch the elastic as you sew. If you use a 1/2″ clear elastic simply align the edge of the elastic to the edge of the skirt. I use 3/8″ clear elastic so I put it a little lower than the edge to accommodate the 1/2″ seam allowance that is followed in this pattern.

All you have to do now is attach the skirt to the bodice. The bottom of the bodice and the top of the skirt will be the same circumference. Match the side seams and the center backs and fronts, pin right sides together and sew.

I like to attach the skirt to the bodice using a zig zag stitch but you can also use a triple stretch stitch.

Optional: top stitch the seam allowance up towards the bodice.

Tadah! You’re all set to rock your new woven skirt Boundless (or Sunshine) dress! I can’t wait to see your take on this easy hack so be sure to post it in the P4P group too!

LL – easy hacks

In true Pirate fashion we could not have let this double release go by without showing you some easy but fun hacks for the Little Loungers and Linen Loungers. Erinn will start you off with an adorable bias binding hack for the curved hem shorts.

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Bias Binding curved hem

Adding bias bindings to the hemline of the curved shorts is a quick and easy way to create an entirely different look. One of the things that I love most about this look is that it’s a great way to add a pop of contrasting or coordinating fabrics.

To create this look, cut out your pattern pieces as you would per the pattern. The only additional thing you will need are your bindings. For mine, I cut them 2″ wide by a length that was longer than the hemline. As you can see below, I used the curved pattern pieces and marked the top edge. I will connect my bias binding pieces up to this marking.

If you are attaching pockets, you can complete everything through these steps. Before sewing up the inseam and sides, you will want to complete your bindings along the curves. Place your shorts facing down and bias binding pieces face down and then gently ease them along the curves. You will want to pin/clip this in place. As you can see, my pieces are longer than the edges, but these will be trimmed later. Attach with a 1/2″ seam allowance, then clip into seam allowance along curve.

Once you’ve attached your binding, press binding piece and seam up. Press bias binding piece to align with top edge, then press again as you fold binding over (these are the same steps as were completed on pockets).  Edge stitch along folded edge and repeat on the other three hemlines.

Once you’ve attached all bias bindings, you will assembly your pattern as directed. When reaching the curved seam and inseam, you will want to make sure to use a straight stitch for the last few inches to create a cleaner finish (With wovens, it is advised to use a straight stitch first and then go back over with a serger if desired. If doing so, end your serged section a few inches before your straight stitch to help create that cleaner look). Trim any bias binding pieces that might be longer than your seam allowance.

 

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Cuffed capri pants

Next I will show you how easy it is to add  cuffs to the capri pants. The patterns include a cuff option for the short so we will use the same tutorial techniques. Start by printing the pattern in your desired size. I made a size 6 Little Loungers with patch pocket and elastic waistband.

There are two changes you will need to do to the original pattern. You must cut the capri length 1 inch shorter than the cut line for both the front and back pieces. We do that because we won’t be hemming anymore, we will be adding the cuffs. That brings me to the second change you’ll need to make. The cuffs in the pattern are drafted to fit 1:1 ratio to the shorts leg opening. The capri leg opening is smaller so we will need to shorten the width of the cuff. How much you shorten the width will vary for each size. The length of the cuff will remain the same.

Don’t forget to cut and attach the button tabs too! They add such a cute touch to the capris!

Sew the pants as per the tutorial. Easy peasy! Don’t be afraid to add some detail stitching to the button tabs or the pockets! I used my coverstitch to add a touch of blue but you can certainly use a twin needle or your preferred decorative stitches.

If you love the look of the cuff but prefer the bermuda length you can certainly apply the same principals and created a cuffed bermuda linen lounger or little lounger…the sky’s the limit! 🙂

 

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 Hemmed and lined shorts

We always like to mix up our finishing options to give you a wide variety that you can apply to any pattern so we went with a cuffed or curved hem facing for the shorts this time.  If you’ve been following P4P for awhile, you’ll notice Judy loves some short shorts 😉 but that may not be your  preference.  I’m going to show you how to lengthen your inseam and do a simple hemmed edge.  I also wanted to use this gorgeous embroidered lace so will give some insight on how to line them.

First, decide what you would like  your finished inseam length to be.  The current inseam finishes at 2.5″.  For my finished length I went with 3.5″.  Decide the length of your preferred hem (I did 1/2″) and add this to your desired inseam length.  Measure and transfer to your pattern.  Don’t forget all seam allowances are 1/2″ so your total inseam on the pattern should be 1/2″ longer.  Example for my 3.5″ finished inseam: 1/2″ seam allowance at the crotch curve + 3.5″ inseam length + .5″ hem allowance = 4.5″ total inseam.

Now that you have adjusted your inseam length we will make our hem gauge for the hem.  You’ll notice these outward notches on other cutlines (bermuda) as well as on sleeves hems.  It may look a little funny, but it actually serves a purpose.  Cutting the outward notch will allow the hem to lay flat once folded.  The angle of the gauge should be a mirror image of the seam just above it so that when its turned under it will lay flush.  Again, my hem allowance is 1/2″, if you choose to do a wider hem, you will want to extend your hem gauge to match the same length of your hem allowance.

 

Proceed to cut your pattern and construct as instructed in the tutorial.  To make a lined pair, cut every piece from both your main and lining fabric.  Lay your main fabric on top of your lining piece (right sides up) and construct as usual, treating them as one piece.

To hem, I serged both the main and lining fabric together to finish the edge . Then turned and top-stitched.  Easy right?

 

You can also line the shorts by treating your lining and main fabric as separate items.  So construct a main short and lining short then slip them inside one another and attach your waistband to both the lining and the main.  I chose to it the other way since I would be hemming them together anyway.

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Fully Enclosed Seams on Cuffed Shorts

When it comes to seams on my pants, I tend to gravitate toward wanting to enclose all of them.  It gives a nicer, neater look to your pant, and just feels more “handmade” than “homemade” to me.  The Loungers tutorial already tells you how to enclose the waistband on your pants, but what if you wanted to enclose the cuff hems too?

Here’s a quick rundown of how to make that happen:

  1. Prepare your cuff as the pattern states.  Right sides together, fold piece in half and stitch along unfolded edge.
  2. Working from the wrong side of the fabric, fold and press 1/2″ on one of the long edges of entire cuff piece.
  3. With right sides together, fold and press your cuff piece, leaving 1/2″ seam allowance at the top edge.
  4. Press, press, press.

5. With your pant leg piece right side up, place your cuff piece on top (pinning carefully and aligning all of your seams.  Stitch at a 1/2″ seam allowance.

6. Flip your fabric over so you’re looking at the wrong side of your pant leg.  Open up your cuff piece and press the raw edges away from the pant leg, toward your cuff.
7. Using those beautifully pressed lines that you created for yourself back in steps 2-4, fold your cuff piece so it encloses all of your raw edges.
8. Press and edge stitch.

You now have a beautifully enclosed hem on your pant leg!  Do a small happy dance, pat yourself on the back, and then repeat the steps for your other cuff.

(I didn’t have a chance to grab photos in my new shorts made from the tutorial yet, but I used that same method on the short pictured below and I LOVE them!  You will too!)

 

Use one of these hacks?  Be sure to hop on over to the Facebook Group and share your Linen and Little Loungers love. 🙂

Take the Plunge Swim :: Easy Hacks

The ultimate one piece swimsuit is here and it’s packed with so many options. Mix and match the halter, low back or high back with any of the bottoms styles for a unique look every time but in true P4P fashion we could not have released this pattern without some easy hacks to get you even more looks out of your Take the Plunge Swimsuit.

First on the hack line up is a super easy swicharoo! 🙂 Simply switch the half circle skirt included in the Take the Plunge swimsuit with the rushed skirt of the Hello Sailor  Swim Bottoms.

This “retro” look is so easy to achieve when using the ties option of the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms. If you prefer to use the elastic rushing option included in the tutorial  you can certainly do that too.

I used the low back option of the Take the Plunge swimsuit but either one of the other tops would look amazing with the skirted bottoms. Make yourself a high back option and you’ll be ready to chase your little ones at the beach this summer. 🙂

There was no alteration needed to make to the pattern.  Follow the tutorial for the Take the Plunge swimsuit and replace the skirt included with the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms skirt. Easy peasy!

Alex

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For another quick and easy way to mix up this pattern, try modifying the straps!  In this example, I’ll show you how to hack the halter back and straps into a trendy criss-cross.

1. When cutting out your halter straps, you don’t need to cut the pointed tip.  Just straight across is easier.  For me, the length worked as-is, but if you are extra tall (I am 5’8″), you may want to cut a couple extra inches just to be safe.

2. Assemble the pattern as the instructions direct, until you get to the step for adding the elastic in the back.

3. After you’ve added the elastic, on each side, mark the middle point between the center back and the side seams. (I happened to take this picture before I added the elastic, don’t be confused by that part!)

4. Pin/clip (or baste) the straps in place where you’ve marked – make sure to cross them and that they aren’t crooked.  You’ll want to try it on at this point to make sure the strap lengths are comfortable.  I found that I needed to attach the straps about 1.5″ from the end.

5. Once you know exactly where you want the straps placed, now you’re ready to sew them down.  There’s multiple ways you could do this, but I found this method reduced bulk the most.

6. With your strap facing up, sew it through the elastic on the back.  This area will receive a lot of stress so make sure to use a good stitch – I like the triple stretch stitch or zigzag.

7. Now turn your elastic edge down to get ready to top-stitch along the edge as the pattern instruction indicate.

8. Before you top-stitch, pull the straps upwards again.  Now, you’ll also catch the strap as you top-stitch along the back of the suit.

9. That’s it!  Now finish the suit as usual.

Have fun experimenting different ways to change up these straps.  You could try using the low back option instead of the halter,  double or even triple straps on each side, or even weave them together for a completely different look!

– Elisabeth

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Not really a one piece kind of girl?  Whether you like to rock a bikini or prefer a little more coverage of a tankini,  with a few minor changes you can Take the Plunge to new depths (or looks 😉 )

First up, the Peplum Tankini.  I also had some fun and played with the straps a little and might blog those later but for now we will focus on the peplum.

Instead of attaching the skirt to the bottom portion of the waistband as directed in the pattern, you will attach it the to the bottom edge of the bodice.  Using a 1:1 ratio, add 3/8″ elastic and stitch together!  This will give you some extra stability and help keep the top in place. I wanted the skirt to hit just about my high hip so shortened the peplum length in the pattern by 1″.  You can choose any length of your preference though.  I paired this with the Hello Sailor Swim Bottoms, however you could easily use the bottoms in the Take the Plunge Swimsuit (I’ll show those later too!)

 

 

Now for the Bikini option…  Not one, but two!!

For this version, you will construct your top exactly as the pattern instructs and need to choose the low back crossover version.  You will also need a 3/4″ swim bra hook.

Construct your top exactly as you would in the pattern.  Once you have completed your top, find the center back and clip.  Be sure to baste the bottom edge of your bodice to ensure it is aligned correctly at the center notch and side seams. (Note: bottom edge has not been basted in this pic)

Using a 1:1 ratio, stitch elastic to the lining side along the bottom of the bodice edge.  Flip up and top-stitch.

Slide one end in to the swim bra hook and stitch.  Fold over opposite end and stitch, creating a hole for the hook to go through.

To create the separate Take the Plunge bottoms, construct as the pattern indicates.  Using a 1:1 ratio, stitch 3/8″ elastic to the lining side of the top edge of the bottoms.  Flip down and top-stitch.  I used the ruched version here with only the side elastic and omitted the front and back elastic ruching.

 

Our second bikini hack is super cute and ties around the back.  You will want to use the Halter back (or even the full back) option for this version.

 First, create your bikini straps.  Cut a 1.5″ x 15″ strip.  You can adjust the length to your preference depending on how long you would like your ties.

Now, on to the bodice. I trimmed the bottom 1″ off the bodice before beginning.

 

Looking for more inspiration?  Be sure to check out our Facebook album with all the lovely tester pics and how to take the pattern one step further and turn it in to a gorgeous top or dress HERE!

 

 

 

 

Take the Plunge Swimsuit :: Dress & Peplum Hack

We are all loving the new Patterns for Pirates Take the Plunge Swimsuit that was just released! So naturally, we had to take this pattern a step further and morph it into some cute apparel! In this tutorial I am going to show you how to add some super cute skirts in place of the swim bottoms to create adorable everyday garments! As a total bonus you can follow the swim pattern instructions to add built in bra cups and under bust support. How awesome!

:: Fabric Requirements ::

This pattern is intended for pretty sturdy but stretchy swim knit. So in order to turn this into a comfortable dress I recommend choosing a main (outside) fabric that has both great 4-way stretch and good recovery. Brushed poly, rayon spandex, cotton spandex and maybe a very very stretchy scuba or liverpool would work. For the bodice lining you will want to choose something light and stretchy such as rayon spandex or brushed poly. All versions pictured in this tutorial were made using double brushed poly spandex. Also, you do not need to use swim elastic on this, regular braided elastic is sufficient. I will also detail how you may omit the elastic altogether for the full back option.

:: Assemble your Bodice ::

First things first. Go ahead, cut out all pieces of your bodice exactly as instructed in the pattern. None of these pieces need to be altered. You can choose any strap/back option. Choose to add bra cups and under bust support elastic if you feel like having an all-in-one dress! I personally love the push up bra cups for a little extra support when going with the all-in-one option. Remember, you do not need to use swim elastic for non-swim garments. Traditional braided elastic will be a little easier to sew with. Go ahead and assemble the bodice exactly as instructed by the pattern and skip to the Skirt Options portion of this tutorial.

{Optional} :: If you are choosing not to include bra cups, you are using the full back option AND you are using a sturdier fabric like brushed poly or cotton spandex, you may omit the elastic. Fabrics like rayon spandex and ITY, and built in bras that provide support do require that elastic be used to prevent your straps from stretching out. Also, the low back or halter version likewise require elastic to hold the dress up. To omit the elastic follow along with these next steps before getting to the skirt options.

First construct the front bodice pieces as instructed by the tutorial. You can skip the part when you clip the inner strap to fold it over and attach elastic. Instead sew the entire length up the strap to give a nice seam.

Next attach the main back bodice to the lining back bodice by laying them right sides together and stitching along the neckline. Then match up all bodice pieces at the shoulders right sides together and stitch.

Topstitch inner neckline now if preferred. Next, lay your bodice out and fold the back bodice over on top of the front bodice pieces, matching up side seams main fabric to main fabric. Stitch side seams together and then baste the front bodice pieces together along the bottom as instructed in the pattern tutorial.

At this point you can baste stitch the outer armholes to prevent fabric shifting. I chose to run my serger around them. Fold the unfinished edges under about 3/8″  and topstitch armholes in place. The burrito roll method to enclose the armholes cleanly does not work here. There is simply too much fabric on the front bodice to work around. Now it’s time to add your skirt!

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:: Skirt Options ::

There are 3 skirt options that I will show you. The first option is a super fun peplum length. Cut your peplum piece to match the “skirt length” on the swimsuit pattern. I suggest measuring yourself for a preferred peplum length and double checking it against the pattern. You might want to shorten it up an inch or possibly add length depending. See  the option below for more details on how to measure your skirt length. Once cut, simply follow the pattern directions and omit the swim bottoms to complete the top.

NOTE: The “peplum length” on the swim pattern will be too short for an everyday top.

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Next, I will show you an above the knee half circle skirt option. Decide where you would like your dress to land and measure skirt length by holding the end of the tape at your natural waist and allowing the tape to drape along your body. Add 1/2″ to that measurement for your bottom hem and another 3/8″ for your seam allowance. I also like to add an extra inch or so to this measurement just to be safe! You can always trim the hem length down at the end but you can’t easily add extra later! Place your TTP skirt pattern on your fabric and measure out as indicated below. Alternatively you can grab skirt lengths from the Patterns for Pirates Sweetheart Peplum and Dress for the ‘at the waist’ option if you already own that pattern.

Take the Plunge swimsuit dress peplum hack

Cut out your skirt piece, trying to keep your curve as even as possible. Cut your waistband (main and lining as indicated the the pattern) and assemble as instructed omitting the swim bottoms. Attach your waistband/skirt to your bodice. I do recommend cutting both the main waistband and the lining waistband to add structure. Try on your dress for length, hem it and you’re finished!

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For the final option I will detail how to add a gathered skirt in place. This option is really simple. If you own the Boundless dress pattern you can simply attach the waistband from the TTP pattern instructions to the gathered skirt size from the Boundless. If you don’t own that one you can simply cut your rectangle skirt piece by doubling the waistband length and finding your desired skirt length through measuring as described in the previous option. Cut two skirt panels and sew them together if your fabric isn’t wide enough. Direction of greatest stretch should go across the 2x waistband length. See Illustration below:

Gather one of the doubled waistband length sides by running a long baste stitch across and pulling the bobbin thread. Fit and sandwich the gathered end between the waistband pieces being sure the main fabrics are right sides together. Stitch in place.

Fold the long ends of the skirt to meet right sides together. Stitch down the entire side seam, from waistband to bottom of the skirt. Now attach your skirt/waistband to your bodice, right sides together. Try on your dress and hem to the appropriate length. You’re all done!

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So you can see how versatile this swim pattern really is! I hope you have all found this tutorial to be helpful. Go forth, make some swimsuits, peplum tanks and dresses for the summer. Share them with us in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group. Don’t forget to check out the TTP pattern release roundup for some more swimsuit photos and check out the hack post for some more fun Take the Plunge swimsuit options!

 

50K Fan Celebration :: Exposed Elastic PegLegs Hack

Want to make your Peg Legs even easier? How about skipping the band? Today we have an easy hack for you- adding an exposed elastic band.

There are so many types of elastic available in a variety of colors and designs, as well as a multiple widths. For this hack, you will want to first determine how high you would like your band to come. When I was looking for mine, I searched online for “boxer elastic”  knowing that I wanted a large band and this gave me the biggest variety. I finally decided on one that was 5″ tall.

I chose to cut my Pegs as a low rise since the elastic I chose will add quite a bit of height. You can determine which rise is best for you, keeping in mind how tall your elastic is. You will then want to assembly your Peg Legs as per the tutorial until you reach the step of attaching the band.

For the width of my band, I used the cut chart as a guide. I added 2″ to this, as my elastic did not have the same amount of stretch as a fabric band would have had (you can always take more off if you need to, should your band be too large when attaching). Fold band in half width-wise, with wrong sides together, and stitch to create an elastic circle.

Mark both your elastic band and Pegs into even quarters, then slip band around waist of Peg (with right sides together), aligning quarter points. You will want to make sure that you will have to slightly stretch the band, not the waist of the Pegs. If you do not have to stretch, unpin and remove a small amount from the waistband. It is important to have the band stretch slightly to help hold the Pegs up!

Once you have the elastic waistband and Pegs clipped/pinned together, serge or sew around the waist as you would when attaching a fabric band using a 0.5″ seam allowance. Once attached, if you serged the elastic together in the first step, you will need to finish your seam. I prefer to weave my thread back through using a large needle, however you can also use one of the methods Alex described here. The last step is to hem your Pegs according to the tutorial directions and you’re all finished! Enjoy! ~Erinn

We are celebrating reaching 50K fans in our Facebook group!  To make it a party, our beloved PegLegs pattern just got an update AND some new add-ons.  Before you go running to your machine to sew up your own leggings, make sure to read our PegLegs 101 blog post.  This way, you’ll have all the the information you’ll need to make the perfect pair before you even cut into your gorgeous fabric.

But wait, there’s more!  After any good party is an after-party.  We are taking it one step further and sharing some easy hacks that’ll bring even more flavor to your favorite leggings pattern!  We hope you check them out, make your new favorite pair of leggings, and know that we appreciate every single one of you amazing sewing guys and gals!

Here are our hacks / tutorials / latest tricks:

Lace Waistband Alternative | Drawstring Waistband Tutorial
Exposed Elastic Waistband | Stirrup Pant Hack
Ruched Ankles Adjustment | Decorative Topstitching Tutorial
Ruched Side Panel Hack

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