Pattern Hacks Archives - Page 8 of 12

50K Fan Celebration :: Ruched Ankles PegLegs Hack

April 23, 2017

Ahoy Pirates!

Today I’m going to show you how to add some ruching to the ankles of your PegLegs. This is a super easy way to amp up their cuteness factor and take them to the next level.

For this hack, I’ll be ruching using elastic. Depending on your preferences, you’ll need about 12″ of braided (non-roll) elastic. I used 1/2″, though you can also use 1/8″, if you’d prefer. You will also need matching thread.

1. The first thing you need to do is decide how long you want your line of ruching to be. For mine, I chose 5″.

2. You’ll need to add length to the pattern to accommodate the fabric the ruching will take up; you’ll add the same number you originally chose. So for me, the length to add was also 5″. And now the total ruched amount will be 10″.

3. Add the extra length at the capri cut line. To do this, cut your pattern on the capri line, add however many inches you chose earlier. I added 5″. Then cut out your leg pieces with this added length, and your choice of waistband. Your leggings will look crazy long – this is good!

4. I highly suggest hemming the bottom edge now, before ruching. It will be so much easier this way; I chose to do a faux blind hem with my serger. Or, let’s be real…if you’re not planning on hemming, then this doesn’t apply to you! 😉

5. Cut your elastic pieces. To determine the length, add 1″ to your original measurement. So I cut mine 6″.

6. Now, before you sew up the side seams, find the middle of the piece on the end, and mark it. Pin/clip your elastic in place in this place, right above your hem.

7. From the marked spot, measure up your total ruched amount, determined in step 2. My ruched amount was 10″, so I measured 10″ above my marked spot. Add a pin to this spot as well.

8. Now bring the other end of the elastic to the pin and pin it to the fabric. This is the spot which will be ruched.

9. You’ll be sewing the elastic to the fabric now, stretching as you sew. This can be a little tricky, so I advise you test this out on a scrap before sewing your actual ruched piece.

10. Using a slightly shorter zigzag stitch (my length was 1.8, you may also need to reduce the width as well, I used 2.5), start sewing at the end of your elastic. Don’t worry about pulling the elastic until you can grab the end of it from behind the presser foot. This should be about 1/2″ of stitching until you can grab it.

11. The trick now is to hold the elastic from the back while you also pull it from the front, as you are sewing (I couldn’t show this while also holding the camera to take this picture). 😉 This way, you can control it pretty well. I find it helpful to stretch the elastic before sewing, and then pin the middle part to the fabric. Now you can pull from the pin to the presser foot instead of from the very end. Once you get to the pin, then pull from end to end until you are finished sewing. Be sure to backstitch carefully. Don’t worry about making it absolutely perfect, because the ruching will bunch up quite a bit.

12. Now, assemble your PegLegs as usual…sewing the side seams, the waistband, etc. Good news is you’ve already hemmed! Or chosen not to…

That’s it – you’re done! Feel free to play around with different lengths of ruching as well, you may prefer more or less than me. Also, you can also ruche using elastic thread hand-wound in your bobbin. With this method, you’d also lengthen your pattern, and then sew a straight line however many inches you added. I don’t mind using elastic though, since I always have it on hand (not the case with elastic thread!).

Be sure to post your ruching hacks in our Facebook group so we can have all the “heart eyes” for your creations! 😍

~Elisabeth

We are celebrating reaching 50K fans in our Facebook group! To make it a party, our beloved PegLegs pattern just got an update AND some new add-ons. Before you go running to your machine to sew up your own leggings, make sure to read our PegLegs 101 blog post. This way, you’ll have all the the information you’ll need to make the perfect pair before you even cut into your gorgeous fabric.

But wait, there’s more! After any good party is an after-party. We are taking it one step further and sharing some easy hacks that’ll bring even more flavor to your favorite leggings pattern! We hope you check them out, make your new favorite pair of leggings, and know that we appreciate every single one of you amazing sewing guys and gals!

Here are our hacks / tutorials / latest tricks:

Lace Waistband Alternative | Drawstring Waistband Tutorial
Exposed Elastic Waistband | Stirrup Pant Hack
Ruched Ankles Adjustment | Decorative Topstitching Tutorial
Ruched Side Panel Hack

50K Fan Celebration :: Stirrup Pant PegLegs Hack

April 22, 2017

Written by Kelly Bailey (P4P Blog Contributor)

For this tutorial I will be showing you how to take the updated Patterns for Pirates Peg Leg pattern and hack it into a pair of leggings featuring the stylish yoga stirrups! Have you seen these store purchased versions in your gym classes, or maybe on Pinterest, or maybe you’ve been looking for a comfortable pattern for stirrup leggings to compliment a casual outfit? This simple hack is both comfortable and durable. Follow along with this tutorial and please share your results in the P4P sewing group!

Step One: Fabric

My first, and most important, advice is to choose your fabric wisely. This pattern is intended for 4-way stretch knit with at least 50% stretch. See Peg Leg 101 to review the way the fabric contents and stretch will affect your results. Not all knits are meant for leggings due to the degree of stretch this pattern requires. For all 3 of my versions I have used a brushed polyester spandex knit with varying weights. Athletic knits, such as supplex or heavy weight brushed poly, are the best option if you intent to vigorously work out in your finished garment.

Step Two: Stirrup Pattern Piece

Print out and assemble your Peg Leg pattern as normal, being sure to add or take away height as necessary for you. See Peg Leg 101 for more information on how, where and when this is necessary. The Peg Leg pattern is drafted for an average height of 5’5” and an inseam of 28”. This hack can be applied to both the “plain” version and the “color-blocked” versions. Beware that once you’ve sewn this up you will not be able to simply trim off length at the very end of construction as you would with the standard pattern. So be sure to make a traditional pair and know these height adjustments before attempting this hack.

Next cut out a paper rectangle measuring 7.5” x 4”. The 4” height fits my size 9 foot perfectly but you may need to add or remove a little bit to that measurement depending on your shoe size.

Step Three: Modifying the Peg Leg Pattern

If you’re modifying the “plain” version tape your rectangle to the ankle of your peg pattern as shown. Be sure to pay attention to the side you’re attaching the rectangle to. You want to line the edge of the stirrup rectangle with the FRONT side of the leg piece.

If your modifying one of the “color-blocked” versions line up and attach your stirrup rectangle with the edge of the FRONT pattern piece as pictured.

NOTE: You can switch up the top and middle color-block panel pieces and the pattern will still go together without issue if you are not attaching the pocket. If you do attach the pocket still, it would just sit lower on your leg. My charcoal and hot pink pair show what this swap looks like. My navy and seaglass version show the color-block panel assembly as instructed in the original pattern. I also chose to give a faux flatlock look to my pink version. Follow Alex’s decorative top stitching blog to get this look yourself!

Step Four: Cut Out Your Pieces & Assemble Color-block

Use your modified pattern to cut from your fabric all legging pieces. Add to this the addition of two 1.25” x width of ankle strips with the greatest stretch going with the longer length. Theses will be the bands that stretch around the heel of your foot. The width measurement will leave extra that will get trimmed off after attachment. For a size small I cut a 8″x 1.25″ sized heel band.

For the “plain version” make a cut in each leg piece, as shown in the image below, just to the center width of the leg. This is where you will attach the heel band.

For the “color-blocked” version you are going to sew together all color-block pieces as normal, creating two full leg pieces. You will need to pivot the seam 90 degrees to attach the stirrup to the ankle at the front of the leg. Be sure to only sew the stirrup to the halfway mark along the ankle (mid color-block). Leave the rest unattached so that you can sew the heel band in place.

Step Five: Sew Crotch Seams

Lay your fully assembled leg pieces right sides together on top of one another. Sew your crotch curves together.

Step Six: Attach Heel Bands

Press your heel bands wrong sides together lengthwise and then pin along the unfinished slit along ankle edge. Sew in place being sure to use a stretch stitch but not to stretch either the band or the leg piece.

Step Seven: Pin Inseam in Place

Start by pinning your crotch seams right sides together then go to the stirrup piece and start lining up inseams there. Work your way up the leg making sure to overlap the bands as shown in the photo below. Sew inseam together using stretch stitch. Trim off excess heel band.

Step Eight: Finishes

At this point you can attach your waistband using the directions in the patterns tutorial and then hem the bottom of the stirrups using a stretch stitch and your preferred hem width. Press.

All Done!

Try them on and enjoy. Keep your feet cozy whether in yoga class or sewing your next garment at home!

Here are our hacks / tutorials / latest tricks:

Lace Waistband Alternative | Drawstring Waistband Tutorial
Exposed Elastic Waistband | Stirrup Pant Hack
Ruched Ankles Adjustment | Decorative Topstitching Tutorial
Ruched Side Panel Hack

50K Fan Celebration :: Drawstring Waistband PegLegs Hack

April 21, 2017

Today I’m sharing a quick cute hack to your peg legs to add a drawstring to your waistband. I wear peglegs all year round and the drawstring changes up the look just a bit. Let’s get started.

First you sew your legs together as per the pattern.
Before we start the waistband we are going to make some markings. I am using a disappearing ink pen from my fabric store to mark mine. I folded my waistband in half to find the center and marked the center with my pen in a few spots. Next I found folded the fabric long sides together to mark where I wanted my buttonholes. I wanted my buttonholes in the middle of my waistband. Your waistband is 7 inchs wide so folded it is 3.5 inchs but the bottom .5 inch is your seam allowance therefore I measured 1.5 inchs down from the top fold and marked that as being the center right across the other mark that I had made. Now I have a little cross right marked.

3. Buttonholes can be a bit of a pain on knits so I added a little piece of interfacing on the back, I didn’t actually iron it on to my fabric I just wanted something to give it a bit of stability, a tear away stabilizer would also do the trick or you can iron on a piece of knit interfacing. I happened to have a bit of regular interfacing sitting here so that is what I used. I sewed the buttonholes on either side of my cross .25 inch from the center. I just did a really small buttonhole, it doesn’t need to be big cause you are just threading through some drawstring. Now for all those people that hate sewing buttonholes not to worry knits don’t fray so you can always just cut some little slits in the waistband if that is the option you choose make sure to iron on some knit interfacing thou, it would prevent the knit from stretching out while wearing them.

4. Once you have the buttonholes are done we are going to create a casing for your drawstring. First you are going to match the short sides of your waistband as the pattern directs and sew them together, fold the waist band in half and then your going to sew all the way around about .25 of an inch above the waistband and below the waistband. Now you can mark your lines here that you are going to sew but I’m a rebel and just went for it by sewing 1.25 inchs from my fold, for the second row of stitching I sewed .5 down from the first line I made. Once your casing is all done just attach the waistband to your legs as normal.

5. Now you just need to add your drawstring. I used 50 inchs of drawstring on the xxs size and I just tied off each end but you could certainly fold the ends over and hem the edges of your drawstring. I like to just put the drawstring around me and leave long tails and then insert it into my casing try it them on and you can always cut the drawstring shorter so start with a long piece and then cut them the length you like best. Remember you have to leave your drawstring fairly loose or you won’t be able to pull your leggings on! I figured this out while trying mine on! Another simple solution to use elastic for most of your drawstring, I would use 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch elastic. You could cut your elastic slightly shorter then your drawstring and then sew drawstring onto each end of your elastic and thread it through your casing, it would give you just a bit more give when pulling them on and off.

I hope you try adding some drawstring in your peglegs and don’t forget to show them off in our Facebook group! – Angela

Here are our hacks / tutorials / latest tricks:

Lace Waistband Alternative | Drawstring Waistband Tutorial
Exposed Elastic Waistband | Stirrup Pant Hack
Ruched Ankles Adjustment | Decorative Topstitching Tutorial
Ruched Side Panel Hack

50K Fan Celebration :: Lace Waistband PegLegs Hack

April 19, 2017

Every once in awhile, our Facebook group gets hit with a picture of a trending item with the question “How can I make this?”. For a few months, a picture of a lace waistband was circulated and while we secretly worked on the Peg Legs update, we knew we had to add it to our hack lineup.

To achieve this look, we are going to eliminate the waistband piece, but in order to help keep them up, we will be increasing the rise and adding elastic at the top edge. You will also need wide stretch lace (we used lace between 5-6″ tall) and 1/4″-3/8″ elastic.

I wanted to keep the original mid-rise of the leggings but since we are eliminating the extra waistband piece, I cut on the high rise line and added about 0.25″ to accommodate the elastic. Once cut, assemble the legs as you normally would.

Cut your elastic the width of the waist of the Peg Legs. The Peg Legs already have negative ease (meaning, they are smaller than your body measurements and stretch to fit) so we do not need to cut the elastic smaller than the opening. This is just used as extra support to help keep them up.

Butt the ends of the elastic to one another, and using a zig-zag stitch, stitch, creating a circle. Stitch the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric using your favorite stretch stitch. If using a serger, do not cut any fabric off. The elastic should be measured at 1:1 with the top of the leggings so should not need to stretch to fit the opening.

To determine the size of the lace waistband, lay your lace on top of the leggings and cut them 1/2″ wider than the leggings on either side. Cut 2.

With right sides together, stitch each short end with a 1/2″ seam allowance to create a circle. Flip right side out.

With both right sides out, slip lace waistband over the leggings. I wanted to encase my elastic so chose to fold over the edge of the fabric as well. Top-stitch using your favorite stretch stitch around the top edge of the leggings. I did not stitch along the bottom edge of the lace. I used a brushed poly so the lace sort of “stuck” to the fabric when worn so found I did not need to stitch the bottom edge in place.

Here are our hacks / tutorials / latest tricks:

Lace Waistband Alternative | Drawstring Waistband Tutorial
Exposed Elastic Waistband | Stirrup Pant Hack
Ruched Ankles Adjustment | Decorative Topstitching Tutorial
Ruched Side Panel Hack

Favorite Tee | Easy Pattern Hacks

April 11, 2017

Lace Up V-Neck:

As if the Favorite Tee was not amazing enough, we have a few easy hacks for it that will make you want to sew even more of them. The first time I saw a lace up V-neck shirt on Pinterest I knew I had to make myself one so I will show you how easy it is to get the look by using the Favorite Tee pattern. You will need the pattern printed and cut in your size (use the V neck option), a little bit of interfacing, 10 grommets and some cord.

Favorite Tee dress option (lengthen 1.5″ in the front and unhemmed)

Start by adding some tricot or light weight interfacing to the V neck band. Cut 2 strips of interfacing about 7 inches long by the width of the band. Cut out the V at one end and iron the interfacing to the neckband.

Sew the shirt or dress as per the pattern tutorial. I chose the dress because you know…one can never have too many dresses. You can certainly do this neckline with either one of the shirt length too. You will now need to mark the grommets location.

You can measure about one inch up on each side of the V band starting with the front center seam. Mark that spot. Keep adding a mark every one inch up on each side. I used 5 grommets on each side.

There are different size and color eyelets that you can use. I went with a brown/copper-ish finish for mine because I liked how it looked against the marble fabric.

ohhh the choices 🙂

Follow the manufacture instructions for adding the eyelets. I know there are more expensive devices out there but I am very pleased with my $1.50 Dritz eyelet tool so that’s what I used.

For a more edgy look you can make a faux leather binding and thread it through the eyelets.

You are almost done. All you have to do now is lace up the neckband with a cord. You can use parachute cord, or faux suede cord like I used for my final pics or you can make your own. Tadah! You have just created your very own Pinterest worthy lace up Vneck shirt or dress.

Favorite Tee dress length (1.5″ longer in the front than the pattern and not hemmed)

Curved Hem Lace Insert:

Adding lace to your finished garments is a fun way to add some extra sweet details. You can use a lace applique, or in this instance, I used a scalloped edge mesh lace. I chose the curved hem but you could use the other side split hem options if you’d prefer. Print, cut and assemble your pattern as usual. I wanted the curved hem to start a little higher on my hip so adjusted the length of the side seam. I stopped about 6″ from the bottom of the side seam.

Since I stopped higher than the original side seam, my curve ended up looking a little funky, so I trimmed the edges to make a nice clean curve.

Hem using your fabric stretch stitch. (Need some tips on hemming a curved hem? Check out Alex’s post HERE)

Next, open up your side seam and place your applique right side up to the wrong side of your main fabric. Position as you wish and top-stitch in place. *Note – be sure to measure your pattern piece from the curved hem line to side seam and make the applique at it’s widest point a similar measurement (near the bottom hem). Otherwise, you may loose some ease at the hip.

Trim the applique or fabric if needed.

High Side Split Hem:

The side split hem for both shirt and tunic lengths is a fun detail on it’s own, but we thought we’d take it up a notch (no pun intended 😉 ) and make those slits sky high. Ok, so maybe not that high but we did take them up quite a bit. Using the average 8″ side waist measurement (based on a 5’5″ frame), construct your pattern as instructed but stop your side seam stitch at 8″ below the armpit. Finish the side split as noted in the pattern. Easy Peasy and no added steps or items needed!

This pairs perfectly with our Cross my Heart Cami to show off those layers.

Or, leave it un-layered and open with a high waist Pirate Pencil Skirt or some skinnies. Either way, you’re sure to be on trend.

Convinced you need the pattern yet? The Favorite Tee is loaded with options and these simple hacks/mods give you that little extra to start filling up your closet without the worry of having too many duplicates. I know they’re our new Favorite Tee 😉

Pumpkin Spice Dolman Cold Shoulder Hack

April 4, 2017

Cold shoulder tops are all the rage right now and it’s a quick and easy hack to add to your Pumpkin Spice Dolman. The Pumpkin Spice Dolman is one of my very favorites and they are in constant rotation in my wardrobe, so as soon as I saw someone in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group ask about a hack, I knew I had to make one ASAP. Let’s get started!

First you are going to cut out all your pieces, I choose to do the 3/4 sleeve with the long band for mine. Once your pieces are cut, we are going to line up our shoulders seams but instead of sewing the hole seam we are going to make a couple of marks. I marked 1.5 inches down from the neck and placed a pin there and then 2.5 inches up from where the arm attaches. I am sewing a XXS and that is what worked for me but feel free to adjust those measurements to make it perfect for you. Now we are going to sew from the edge to where we put our pin on the sewing machine. It’s really important that you don’t use your serger for this step!

Now that our seams are sewn, we are going to press them open and continue pressing where we didn’t sew open as well. Measure to make sure that you are pressing exactly your 1/2 inch seam allowance. Once you have it pressed open we are going to top stitch both sides of the seam allowance. I’m using my coverstitch here, but you can use a twin needle or a single needle, whichever you prefer. You just created your cold shoulder, easy right?! You will now continue constructing your top just as the pattern says.

And don’t forget the Pumpkin Spice Dolman has a matching girls pattern the Spice Cake so you can also make the girls in your life a matching cold shoulder top- I know that my daughter is all about the cold shoulder and I plan on making her a couple too!

Don’t forget to show off your creations in the Facebook Group, we adore seeing all your creations – Angela

Heart Breaker Cami- Swim Top Hack

March 27, 2017

During testing we had a lot of ladies used swim knit as a swim top for their littles! I think the design looked like a great swim top!

So, I thought I would share the very simple mods I did to use the Heart Breaker Cami as a swim top for my Baby Girl! I recommend adding swim elastic around all the edges. This helps the suit stay put when wet. I used 3/8″ swim elastic so I didn’t have to change any measurements to the binding 🙂

*I know a lot of ladies will be asking if they can skip the elastic. Technically yes, you can sew it with just swim knit and it will stand up to the water. BUT, the elastic will make it a “real swim suit”. What does that mean exactly? The swim elastic is made to hold up to the water and chlorine and doesn’t stretch out when wet. The swim fabric does stretch out and get heavier when wet. For me personally, if I’m going to give the time to sew up a swim suit, I want it to be a nice, stay put, last all summer one! So, I absolutely take the time to put in the elastic 🙂 I don’t want it to grow and fall down on her while we’re swimming or constantly be slipping off her shoulders if I skip it.

Follow the tutorial for the first step of attaching binding. Then serge or stitch your swim elastic along the opposite edge of binding that has not been attached yet. You want the edge of the swim elastic to be even along the edge of the binding. For the front curved neckline you will want to put slight tension on the elastic as you’re attaching, you don’t need to stretch much- just a touch- so that it hugs to your little one’s body.

Finish the binding exactly per the tutorial. Repeat these steps for the rest of the binding- putting a small amount of tension on the elastic only around the curved areas (under arms). For the shoulder straps and X back binding pieces you do not need to stretch the elastic at all- use a 1:1 ratio.

I also added some swim elastic into the bottom hem to keep it from riding up. For the cropped version I slipped elastic into the band there at the bottom.

And now she’s ready for the summer! I can’t wait to see her in it (especially since I found these perfect accessories to go with it!)

Cross my Heart Cami- Lined Cropped Hack

March 14, 2017

The Cross my Heart Cami just released and I know a lot of ladies are asking about how much support the cropped length has. It is not drafted or designed to offer any support like a real bra. But, here are some tips in lining it and adding a touch more support if you’d like it.

To line I cut 2 fronts, 2 backs and 1 set of the binding pieces and band. I used the blue for my main fabric and black for the lining. I also cut 1 size down from my measurements on everything but the band and used a more stable, thicker athletic knit for both main and lining.

I sewed the top a little out of order to line. First I gathered my front and sewed the side seams to both my main and lining fabric. I added some 1/4″ elastic into the side seams on the lining to help add a bit more support.

Then I attached one side of the band RST to my main fabric top. (My underbust is a size smaller, so mine will look a little smaller and more gathered than most 🙂 )

Attached the other side of the band RST to the lining top.

Now fold the band in half and put main and lining wrong sides together. You can baste along the top edges of the top here to help keep them all in place.

Attach neckline binding exactly the same, treating the 2 top edges as 1.

After stitching the neckline bindings on you will stitch the shoulder strap bindings in the round. With shoulder strap marked from pattern pieces, fold in half widthwise and stitch short ends creating a circle.

Attach binding piece exactly per the tutorial, aligning your stitch line on the binding with the side seam of the top.

Now you have a fully lined, no seams exposed cropped length cami 🙂

Although I could wear this around the house very comfortably I wouldn’t venture out in it still. Personally, I’m much more comfortable in something with cups of some sort. You can definitely add cups into the lining as well if you’re wanting that too, but I didn’t have any of hand to throw in there 😉 I wouldn’t consider it enough support to use as a sports bra either. If you’re wanting more of a sports bra I would recommend adding some power mesh inner lining to help hold the ladies in place.

Mine will still be worn around the house all the time, layered over a sports bra (I often wear 2 to help hold those girls), and layered over a bra as well in those hot months when I’d rather not have 2 full layers on!

I can’t wait to see what all you lovely and creative ladies do with this pattern!

<3 Judy

P4P Cardi Week :: Carefree Flannel + Vest Hack

January 28, 2017

The Carefree Cardigan is such a great drape cardigan and as it has a nice loose fit you can easily use it to make a vest and because of the shape of the cardigan it will work in woven. Yep I said it you can make this vest in woven!

This is a super quick hack, start by cutting your 2 front pieces and back out of your flannel and you are going to want to choose the longer length of the two length, you aren’t going to need any of the band pieces for this. Depending on your height you may want to remove or add length. I’m a shorty so I remove a couple of inchs from the bottom and also from the front side as the drape is quite long on me.

Sew your shoulder, skip the sleeves and sew the side seams as per the directions. Now instead of adding bands we are going to hem the armholes and all the way around your neck, down the front and across the bottom. I serged all the way around first to finish the edges. The serged edge gives me a perfect 1/4 inch to flip and iron and then I flipped it one more time so my serged edge was hidden and hemmed all the way around as close to the fold as you can. Another tip is to trim your corners, it just makes them a bit less bulky to hem. Do the exact same process to your armcycles and voila you have perfect draped flannel vest! If you don’t have a serger just use a zig zag stitch to finish the edges. Another cute option would be to fringe the front of your cardigan, you would still need to hem around the neck and down the sides but you can easily just pull the threads along the front and or the bottom till you have the amount of fringe that you would like.

I live in Canada so I really like the extra layer that sleeves add so for this second version I cut the back and sleeves out of a knit and then cut the front pieces in a flannel. I used the exact same construction as above with no bands and just hemmed all the way around and I have another cute cardigan but got to use my warm flannel!

Now go sew up all that gorgeous plaid flannel that you have been hoarding! – Angela Newman

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon Lace Hems & Butterfly Ruffle

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves + Hem

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

You can follow along on the blog here, or in our Facebook group. Search #P4PCardiWeek to be able to find our posts all over social media. And please feel free to sew-along with us on one or all of the days. The more the merrier!

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

Between tomorrow and Saturday, January 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates cardigan using one of our hacks, or by keeping the pattern as-is. Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag#P4PCardiWeek We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog. Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

P4P Cardi Week:: Varsity Sweater Hack

January 27, 2017

Let’s talk game day attire… I know we have some sports fans in the Facebook group and if your house is anything like mine, it revolves around football. Even if it doesn’t, the Varsity style sweater is a nod to a throwback classic look. Some months back Judy showed us how to add a stripe accent to a raglan sleeve during our #P4PRaglanWeek (read more about it HERE) . Using the same idea, I hacked the Cpt. Mack’s Cardigan to replicate a Varsity sweater.

Print, assemble and cut your pieces as instructed in the pattern.

After looking at a few Varsity style sweaters I decided to go with 2 stripes on the left sleeve only. You can choose a number of different fabrics to use for the stripes. I ended up using a flocked heat transfer vinyl but you could also use knit scraps. Placement of your stripes is your preference depending on size and quantity. My stripes are 3/4″ wide and are placed just below the short sleeve cut line and above the 3/4 sleeve cut line. (Note: the left sleeve is with the back of the sleeve to your right hand side when looking at the fabric with right side up. The elbow patches are show on the pattern piece.)

I also added an applique to the left front body. I used the flocked heat transfer vinyl again and pressed it directly to white knit and then used Heat & Bond Hem Tape to secure in place. Top-stitching is optional but decided to keep it as is. If you choose to add an applique, embroidery or any additional embellishments to the main body, do it prior to construction. It is much easier to add when your pieces are not sewn together yet.

Another design element that I noticed when searching for inspiration was the contrasting pocket bands. Using Patty’s idea during #P4PRaglanWeek (details HERE) I added the feature to the patch pockets.

That’s it! Easy, right?!?! Use your favorite team colors or maybe even your little one’s school colors for the perfect school pride cardi. This of course can be used to hack the women’s Grandpa Cardi as well.