Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

P4P University – Shirring 101

In this month’s P4P University blog we decided to focus on shirring. Shirring is the process that will give elasticity non stretchy fabric by shrinking it.

Start by winding the bobbin with elastic thread. I recommend winding the bobbin by hand instead if the electric winder. This will ensure that the thread is not too tight on the bobbin.

TIP: Wind several bobbins before you start sewing.

Replace your regular thread bobbin with the elastic thread one and manually pull the elastic thread up by hand turning the machine wheel.

I have made this video with my tips for easy shirring so take a look before you start.

 

Choose light weight fabric!

As with all sewing, fabric type/weight makes a huge difference. The lighter the fabric, the tighter will your shirring be. Voile or chiffon will shirr better than quilting cotton, denim or corduroy won’t shirr at all.

Adjust the tension and length according to your machine and fabric!

Not all sewing machines will shirr the same way. Some might “fuss” more than other, so it’s very important to test on a piece of fabric (the same as the one you’re using in your project) what tension will work best. I personally prefer the longest stitch length and the highest tension.

Do not use the automatic thread cutter!

I know for some, like me, using the automatic features of our machine is like second nature but try to remember to disengage the automatic thread cutter so you avoid having to manually pull the elastic thread up with every row. See video above.

Space your shirring rows equally spaced, no more than 1/4″ apart!

For best shirring results your rows should be about 1/4″ apart, or less. The closer the shirring rows, the tighter the elasticity.

Steam, steam and STEAM again!!

Once you finished your shirring rows take your project to the ironing board and give the shirred rows several bursts of steam, on both sides. You will see the shrinking magic happening right before your eyes. This step is NOT OPTIONAL, it’s a must do when shirring.

There you have it! You are now ready to shirr all the woven tops!

Boundless Dress :: New Pattern + Update!

We told you that we’d be going through and updating older patterns, didn’t we?  But did we tell you that we would be taking one of our favorite patterns, updating it, AND adding a girl’s version of it as well?  Because that’s exactly what we did.  And we are so excited to share them with you!

Allow me to re-introduce you to the Boundless Knit Dress and at the same time, introduce you to it’s mini: the Boundless Youth!

Before we get started: If you already own a copy of the original Boundless pattern, you will NOT need to re-purchase to get the updates.  If you bought here (PatternsforPirates.com) or on the Craftsy store, you will simply need to sign into your account and re-download the file.  If your purchase was via Etsy, email help@patternsforpirates.com (WITH PROOF OF PURCHASE) and you will get an updated file.  It’s as easy as that!

Both patterns feature as many options as we could fit into them.  We’ve got four sleeve types (sleeveless, short, 3/4 and long), multiple lengths (Mini, Knee, Tea and Maxi), two waistline options (empire and natural waist), and optional pockets.  Both the women’s and youth bodices can be made lined or unlined, and the women’s even comes with two neckline options (high and low).  It is drafted for women (sizes XXS – Plus 3X), and youth (3M – 14).

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And, as with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.

Let’s take a look at the different options!!

Empire + Natural Waist Bodices

Sleeved + Sleeveless Options

Multiple Hem Lengths

Women’s Neckline Options

Are you ready for Boundless amounts of sewing fabulousness?  Grab your pattern now!

BOUNDLESS DRESS – YOUTH | BOUNDLESS DRESS – WOMEN’S | BOUNDLESS KNIT DRESS BUNDLE

Need more convincing?  Just take a look at this pattern on all of the amazing shapes and sizes of our testers, and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group! Women’s Album / Youth Album

And if that didn’t give you enough options, make sure to check out the hacks post to help take your patterns even further.

The release sale (no code needed) will be through Monday May 7th 2018 (11:59PM US Central Time Zone).

Happy Sewing, pirates!

Boho Babydoll – Easy Hacks

 

As with all other P4P releases we couldn’t let the Boho Babydoll party start without some easy hacks that you can do for both the women and the girls tops/dresses.

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Waist Ties

The Boho Babydoll Dress and Shirt is a relaxed it at the waist so I wanted to start these hacks by showing you how easy it is to add some fun waist ties top it. Print and cut your pattern and fabric as you normally would and cut two tie pieces 2″ by 28-34″ depending on how long you want the ties to be. For reference my ties are 34″ because I like to be able to tie them around my waist too.

Mark a point on both the front and back bodice pieces that is 3/4″ up from the waist edge.

Fold the ties wrong side together, lengthwise and sew them with a 1/2″ seam allowance. You will be sewing one of the short ends too.

Using your favorite turning tool, turn the ties inside out and give them a good press.

Pin the ties on the front bodice at the marking point you did earlier. The bottom of the tie length will be at the 3/4″ mark. Repeat on the other side of the front of the bodice.

Optionally, you can baste the ties to the bodice before you sew the side seam.

Sew the bodice as instructed. That was easy!

You can wear your ties tied in the front…

….or tied in the back…

…or if you made them long enough you can wrap them around your waist.

 

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Split Sides

 

During the summers, I like to attend a lot of concert festivals. One trend that I have noticed are tank tops with flowy layers- sometimes it’s the back, other times the front, but one of my favorites is on the sides. The Boho Babydoll makes the perfect starting point to create a comfortable tank with a cute little peek-a-boo side. I can’t wait to try this out as a swim cover as well with some fun lace or mesh. You can use these simple steps below to help recreate this look.

Step 1: Cutting Pieces

Cut out your pieces as instructed, with the exception of the skirt. (You can use any of the bodice options.) The only change that I made to the skirt was to add an additional 1″ to the fold of the FRONT piece. I did not make any adjustments to the back skirt. 

Step 2: Bodice/Hemming

You will want to assemble your bodice as per the pattern instructions, up to the skirt. Once your bodice is finished, you will want to hem your two skirt pieces. I did remove a small piece from the corner of my skirts to help create a smoother hem.

Step 3: Attaching Skirt

Once you’ve hemmed the skirts, you will want to create your gathering stitches. Taking your front piece, place right sides together with the front bodice and front skirt. Begin to pull your gathering stitches and even them out. Using your side seam as a guide, overlap the edge of the skirt piece 1″ past the seam and pin. Repeat the overlap on the opposite side seam.

Repeat the same process with the back skirt, however align the edge of the skirt with the side seam. 

Attach skirt using a stretch stitch or serger and you’re all finished!

This hack is quick to complete and gives a fun detail to your shirt! Not only can this look be fun for everyday, but it can also be used for a swim cover and even a nursing friendly shirt! Enjoy and make sure to share your creations in our Facebook Group!
~Erinn

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Trim Accents

 

A little detail can go a long way.  The baby doll is perfect for adding lace trim details as it is not fitted through the waist so using a crochet trim or non-stretch trim is an option.  You can also add trim around the neckline and armholes but would recommend using a stretch lace as you still need to be able to pull the top over your head.  For my option, I used a pretty narrow trim so constructed my dress as usual and then topstitched it along the seam allowance.  If using a wider trim, you can baste it to the bodice prior to attaching the skirt.

 

Here is another example on a youth version.  Judy used a crochet, non-stretch trim and top-stitched it on after construction to the bodice seam and the hem of the ruffle (both places that wont miss the stretch since they’re looser parts of the garment.

 

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Waist Seam Ruffle

Last but certainly not least we wanted to show you a different way to sew the skirt to the bodice. This method will give your waist a ruffled look without adding any ruffles or changing the pattern pieces.

For this easy hack you will not be modifying the pattern pieces or adding any additional ones. Print the pattern and cut the fabric for your size.

Using a fabric pen or tailor chalk mark the 1/2″ seam allowance on the bottom of the bodice.

Tip: for an extra pop of color finish the top of the skirt with a rolled hem.

Gather the skirt using two rows of basting stitches as in the pattern tutorial. You will now be pinning the skirt to the bodice. The wrong side of the skirt will be pinned to the right side of the bodice, making sure you match the side seams and the center point.

Sew the skirt to the bodice with a zig zag stitch, a triple stretch stitch or your coverstitch. Go really slow so you can ensure a constant 1/2″ seam allowance.

Pull the basting stitches out. One should be above your zig zag stitch, one should be below.

That was all. Your new Boho shirt or dress has an extra cute waist seam now 🙂

 

P4P University – Easy gathering methods

Hello, pirates! Today I wanted to talk to you about gathering and show you 4 of the easiest gathering methods that do not require investing in new gadgets or feet for your machines. All the methods I’m showing are applicable to both woven and knits.

Gathering with your serger

My favorite method of gathering is using my serger and its deferential feed. You will be switching your differential feed to the highest setting possible (in my case 2.0) and tightening the tension of your left needle. It is very important to test your new settings on a piece of fabric that is the same as the fabric you intend to gather. You will be able to see if you need to loosen the needle tension, tighten it or fidget with the right needle too.

For more tips and details watch the video below.

 

Gathering with two rows of basting stitches

The most popular method of gathering, and the one most often used in our patterns (Judy’s favorite) is gathering with two parallel rows of stitching. This method uses your sewing machine.

Note: your first row of gathering stitches should be about 1/4″ away from the edge and your second one 5/8″ away.

 

Tip: For the basting stitches, use a different color thread than the fabric do you can remove it easily.

Gathering with elastic

The next gathering method I wanted to show you is one that uses elastic, clear elastic or knit elastic. Avoid using no roll elastic!  Also, make sure to exercise (stretching it a few times) before cutting.

Start by measuring the opening of the bodice and cut a pieces of elastic that matches the opening. Don’t forget to add seam allowance.

Note: I used 1/4″ knit elastic. This method works beautifully with clear elastic.

Sew the elastic in a loop and mark its quarters. Follow the method as in the video below.

 

Gathering with yarn or floss

The last method I wanted to show you is commonly known as gathering with floss. You will simply sew a wide zig zag stitch over a floss or yarn and simply pull the ends to gather. Super easy!

 

 

Tip: if you’re using yarn, use thin yarn and preferably a color different than the fabric you’re gathering so you can easily pull it out.

There you have it, 4 easy gathering methods that will help you achieve beautiful, even gathers for your skirts and ruffles. No matter which method you use it’s important to hit the seam with a nice hot iron and steam (as much as your fabric type will handle), this will help if you accidentally stretched the bodice at all while attaching as well as set those gathers nicely.  Now go sew a Boundless or a Sunshine dress and show off your new gathering skills.

Wiggle Dress – easy hacks

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Separates

The full-length mermaid-esque dress is gorgeous, but maybe you want to pair it with a different top or choose different fabrics?  With this simple hack, you can create a gorgeous set and wear them as separates.  For the skirt, cut along the crop cutline.  Stitch the center back seam and each side seam.  Using the cropped band measurement and instructions, attach to the top edge of the skirt.  Easy peasy!

How cute is Katy in this Ariel inspired Haloween outfit!

And seriously, how amazing is this sequin skirt!!

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Color-Block Bodice

Keeping with the concept of separates, but perhaps you still wanted a dress. Doing a color-block bodice gives you a chance to mix up your fabrics. Since there is already a crop cutline on the pattern pieces that hits at the natural waist, we will be using that as a guideline. Re-trace the crop cutline 1/2″ above and below it to create your seam allowance on both the front and back pattern pieces.  Cut your new top bodice and bottom skirt from both front and back.  For the back, you will have 2 back top bodices (mirror image) and 2 back bottom skirt (mirror image) pieces.  For assembly, with right sides together, stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance the front bodice to the front skirt. Repeat for both back bodice and skirt pieces.  Continue construction as provided int he pattern. 🙂

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Decorative Button Back

Adding embellishments to your dress can give it some extra special details that will set it apart from the next.  Since the pattern is drafted for stable knits, you do not need a zipper or functional buttons to put it on, so these buttons are purely for decorative reasons.  I love the finishing touch it gives the back. Using the center back seam as a guideline, I hand stitched pearl buttons every 1/2″.  I used the zipper lengths as mentioned in the tutorial as a guide where to end my button placement.  For this version, I used a total of 13 buttons. ”

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Straps for off the shoulder

Love the off the shoulder but hate wearing strapless bras? No problem! Let’s add some cute straps to the Wiggle off the shoulder dress that will cover your bra straps. Print the off the shoulder option of the pattern and sew it up as per the pattern tutorial. Stop at the neckline finishing steps. Cut two pieces of fabric 4″x 9.5″. These will be your straps. The length of your straps may vary slightly based on the size you make.

Fold the straps lengthwise and sew them side with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn the straps inside out and press them with the seam in the center.

For perfect straps placement, try the dress on with your favorite bra. Mark with a pin or a clip where the bra straps will be.

Sew the straps to the dress with the right sides together. Finish the neckline as per the pattern tutorial.

That’s all! You now have yet a new style of the new Wiggle dress!

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Sleeveless

The Wiggle Dress is already packed with soo many options and great for every season but I don’t know about anyone else but summer here is HOT!! I can not handle any type of sleeves at all so a sleeveless version of the Wiggle dress would be what I would want for summer and lucky for me it is a really quick and easy hack.  Let’s get started.

First, you are going to cut all your pieces except for your sleeves.  You do not need to modify the armscye at all for this hack so just cut your front and back as usual.  Sew the shoulder seams and side seams as directed in the pattern, but skip the section for adding a sleeve.   Next, you will iron and pin your armscye to the wrong side 1/2″ inch as shown below. Topstitch using your favorite stretch stitch.

 

Now just finish up the dress or top as instructed in the pattern and you’re done. Quick, right!?

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Full Zipper Back

As soon as I saw the Wiggle dress I knew I had to make a full zipper back! So I took it up a notch and bought a dual zipper. This style zipper opens at the top and bottom. You can add this zipper to the high back, low back or even the off the shoulder option as well as the above, bellow or midi length. Just make sure the zipper you use is long enough! As a point of reference, I used a 48″ zipper for the high back, midi length style.

Start by marking the hem on the center back seam.

Add a strip of 1/4″ Wonder Tape to the center back seam, 1.4″ away from the edge. Start at the point you marked above and stop 1/2″ away from the top.

Repeat with the other back piece.

Remove the paper backing of the Wonder tape and adhere the zipper right sides together. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Zip up the zipper and place the other side of the back piece, right sides together, making sure that the bottom and top match.

Sew in place and top stitch.

Now that you have your back piece ready, sew the dress as per the tutorial. You will be enclosing the zipper in the bottom hem as shown below.

All done! Now all you have to decide is where the next date night will be! 🙂

 

I loved the idea of a full-length zipper like Alex showed us above, but when it came to finding one locally, I wasn’t able to get one the length I needed.  I did find a chunky zipper that would be perfect to use as an exposed zipper and just so happened to work out that it’s finished length was about knee length.  I opted to go with the midi length and do a split hem at the center back.  You will install your zipper the same as you would in the tutorial, except place it on the RIGHT side of the fabric with the wrong side of the zipper centered along the back seam.

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Lace Applique

I’ll be honest, Judy created this dress while we were pre-testing and I had to replicate it.  Adding a lace applique is super easy but adds a super sexy and classic flair.  For this particular version, the lace extends along the entire side seam, so I constructed my bodice first, added the lace to the top, then sewed my sleeves on so that the lace was enclosed in the armscye.  You can, of course, add lace wherever you’d prefer, such as the neckline or bottom hem but I love the silhouette the wide stripe gave from the front and back.   I used a fairly narrow zig-zag stitch down the center seam and along each edge of the stretch lace trim.  Be sure to keep your lace taut as you sew along the waist and hip curves.

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Front Leg Slit

What sexy dress doesn’t include a slit!  Show off those legs and add a front slit to your wiggle.

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Sweetheart/Wiggle Mash

We couldn’t end this epic hacks series without a Wiggle dress/Sweetheart mash up. I just had to make myself a black velvet and lace long dress. We all need one in our closets, right?

This mash is super easy. Simply take the front patterns of the wiggle dress and mark the sweetheart color-block lines using the Sweetheart dress top pattern piece. Don’t forget to add the seam allowance!

Sew the two front pieces (lace and velvet) as suggested in the Sweetheart pattern.

Once you do that simply follow the directions in the Wiggle Dress pattern to finish your dress. I used lace for my sleeves too. Since I didn’t have any black elastic and I certainly couldn’t use white elastic for the neckline, I used clear elastic instead. It worked like a charm!

Tadah! Just by adding a sexy sweetheart color block front, you took your Wiggle dress up a notch!

Holy Moly…. I think we covered just about every hack we could come up with to take The Wiggle Dress to the next level (if it wasn’t already on its own)!  Make a Wiggle? Hop on over to the Facebook Group, and share your makes, we’d love to see it!

Brunch Blouse:: New Pattern Release!

The Summer of Wovens has brought some pants with the Linen Loungers, an updated Everyday Elegance Top and Sweet Bow Dress… and now we give you the perfect top for your apparel wovens, the Brunch Blouse!

We also did it in youth for those with littles.

And, as always we gave you a deal if you wanted both in a bundle listing!

They are both fitted through chest/bust and looser through waist and hip.  They are the perfect casual event top and dress! Use up those gorgeous wovens in your stash or you see at the store and have the perfect thing for that next baby shower, birthday party, brunch with the girls…it even works great for your work or church rotations.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And, as with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4 and A0 sizes.

Lets go over ALL the options!

They include a dolman style short sleeve, cap sleeve and tank.

Shirt length:

Tunic/Curved Hem:

And Dress Length:

 

They both include a henley option:

Chest Pockets:

Short Sleeve Cuffs and Button Tabs:

 

Waist Ties:

The neckline and  tank are finished with single fold bias binding to the inside:

 

Both have a center back seam:

Youth has a button and loop closure on the back while women’s is a simple pull on with no closure.

Don’t forget you can check out this pattern on all shapes and sizes and get a look at more examples of all the options in our albums in the P4P Facebook group! Here is the women’s Brunch Blouse Album and the youth Bitty Brunch Blouse Album.

The sale price will last through Sunday September 17th (midnight US Central time zone) so grab it while you can get that awesome price!

And if that wasn’t enough options, be sure to check out our Brunch Blouse Hacks HERE.

Sweet Bow :: Pattern Release/Update!

Summer might be coming to an end, but we’ve still got some “Summer of Wovens” patterns up our sleeves!

Before we get to the fun: If you already own a copy of the original Sweet Bow, you will NOT need to re-purchase to get the updates.  If you bought here (PatternsforPirates.com) or on the Craftsy store, you will simply need to sign into your account and re-download the file.  If your purchase was via Etsy, email help@patternsforpirates.com (WITH PROOF OF PURCHASE) and you will get an updated file.  It’s as easy as that, we promise!

The Sweet Bow is a stylish pattern with a sweetheart neckline, a bodice that hits at the natural waistline, and features a very full and twirly skirt.

This was one of the earlier Patterns for Pirates patterns and we wanted to make sure to update it to the current P4P standards.  The pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in letter and A4 (no A0- it is only 2-3 pages to print!).  We also tweaked the fit for the smallest sizes and added maxi length option for some extra glamour.

The Sweet Bow now features three hemlines (top, dress and maxi), two strap options (cross and easy on-off), and optional bow embellishments (small and mega bow).

**Want to learn more about how to measure for this pattern?  We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.  In case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new user tips HERE to help you get started!  And don’t miss out on the Measurement Chart printables, to help keep all of those crazy numbers in one easy-to-reference spot.

Here’s a quick rundown of the options:

Three Hem Lengths

Cross Straps, Small Bow + Mega Bow

 

 

Ready to purchase the Sweet Bow and get to sewing yourself?  Go grab your copy HERE!!  The pattern is on a re-release sale through Sunday, September 10, 2017.

If you’re still needing more inspiration, be sure to head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook Group Album to see everything our beautiful testers have sewn for their littles.  Don’t forget to tag us on Instagram (@patternsforpirates | #patternsforpirates) and to share your finished items over in our Facebook group!  We love to see what you make!

Happy sewing, friends!

Take the Plunge Swimsuit :: Dress & Peplum Hack

We are all loving the new Patterns for Pirates Take the Plunge Swimsuit that was just released! So naturally, we had to take this pattern a step further and morph it into some cute apparel! In this tutorial I am going to show you how to add some super cute skirts in place of the swim bottoms to create adorable everyday garments! As a total bonus you can follow the swim pattern instructions to add built in bra cups and under bust support. How awesome!

:: Fabric Requirements ::

This pattern is intended for pretty sturdy but stretchy swim knit. So in order to turn this into a comfortable dress I recommend choosing a main (outside) fabric that has both great 4-way stretch and good recovery. Brushed poly, rayon spandex, cotton spandex and maybe a very very stretchy scuba or liverpool would work. For the bodice lining you will want to choose something light and stretchy such as rayon spandex or brushed poly. All versions pictured in this tutorial were made using double brushed poly spandex. Also, you do not need to use swim elastic on this, regular braided elastic is sufficient. I will also detail how you may omit the elastic altogether for the full back option.

:: Assemble your Bodice ::

First things first. Go ahead, cut out all pieces of your bodice exactly as instructed in the pattern. None of these pieces need to be altered. You can choose any strap/back option. Choose to add bra cups and under bust support elastic if you feel like having an all-in-one dress! I personally love the push up bra cups for a little extra support when going with the all-in-one option. Remember, you do not need to use swim elastic for non-swim garments. Traditional braided elastic will be a little easier to sew with. Go ahead and assemble the bodice exactly as instructed by the pattern and skip to the Skirt Options portion of this tutorial.

{Optional} :: If you are choosing not to include bra cups, you are using the full back option AND you are using a sturdier fabric like brushed poly or cotton spandex, you may omit the elastic. Fabrics like rayon spandex and ITY, and built in bras that provide support do require that elastic be used to prevent your straps from stretching out. Also, the low back or halter version likewise require elastic to hold the dress up. To omit the elastic follow along with these next steps before getting to the skirt options.

First construct the front bodice pieces as instructed by the tutorial. You can skip the part when you clip the inner strap to fold it over and attach elastic. Instead sew the entire length up the strap to give a nice seam.

Next attach the main back bodice to the lining back bodice by laying them right sides together and stitching along the neckline. Then match up all bodice pieces at the shoulders right sides together and stitch.

Topstitch inner neckline now if preferred. Next, lay your bodice out and fold the back bodice over on top of the front bodice pieces, matching up side seams main fabric to main fabric. Stitch side seams together and then baste the front bodice pieces together along the bottom as instructed in the pattern tutorial.

At this point you can baste stitch the outer armholes to prevent fabric shifting. I chose to run my serger around them. Fold the unfinished edges under about 3/8″  and topstitch armholes in place. The burrito roll method to enclose the armholes cleanly does not work here. There is simply too much fabric on the front bodice to work around. Now it’s time to add your skirt!

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:: Skirt Options ::

There are 3 skirt options that I will show you. The first option is a super fun peplum length. Cut your peplum piece to match the “skirt length” on the swimsuit pattern. I suggest measuring yourself for a preferred peplum length and double checking it against the pattern. You might want to shorten it up an inch or possibly add length depending. See  the option below for more details on how to measure your skirt length. Once cut, simply follow the pattern directions and omit the swim bottoms to complete the top.

NOTE: The “peplum length” on the swim pattern will be too short for an everyday top.

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Next, I will show you an above the knee half circle skirt option. Decide where you would like your dress to land and measure skirt length by holding the end of the tape at your natural waist and allowing the tape to drape along your body. Add 1/2″ to that measurement for your bottom hem and another 3/8″ for your seam allowance. I also like to add an extra inch or so to this measurement just to be safe! You can always trim the hem length down at the end but you can’t easily add extra later! Place your TTP skirt pattern on your fabric and measure out as indicated below. Alternatively you can grab skirt lengths from the Patterns for Pirates Sweetheart Peplum and Dress for the ‘at the waist’ option if you already own that pattern.

Take the Plunge swimsuit dress peplum hack

Cut out your skirt piece, trying to keep your curve as even as possible. Cut your waistband (main and lining as indicated the the pattern) and assemble as instructed omitting the swim bottoms. Attach your waistband/skirt to your bodice. I do recommend cutting both the main waistband and the lining waistband to add structure. Try on your dress for length, hem it and you’re finished!

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For the final option I will detail how to add a gathered skirt in place. This option is really simple. If you own the Boundless dress pattern you can simply attach the waistband from the TTP pattern instructions to the gathered skirt size from the Boundless. If you don’t own that one you can simply cut your rectangle skirt piece by doubling the waistband length and finding your desired skirt length through measuring as described in the previous option. Cut two skirt panels and sew them together if your fabric isn’t wide enough. Direction of greatest stretch should go across the 2x waistband length. See Illustration below:

Gather one of the doubled waistband length sides by running a long baste stitch across and pulling the bobbin thread. Fit and sandwich the gathered end between the waistband pieces being sure the main fabrics are right sides together. Stitch in place.

Fold the long ends of the skirt to meet right sides together. Stitch down the entire side seam, from waistband to bottom of the skirt. Now attach your skirt/waistband to your bodice, right sides together. Try on your dress and hem to the appropriate length. You’re all done!

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So you can see how versatile this swim pattern really is! I hope you have all found this tutorial to be helpful. Go forth, make some swimsuits, peplum tanks and dresses for the summer. Share them with us in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group. Don’t forget to check out the TTP pattern release roundup for some more swimsuit photos and check out the hack post for some more fun Take the Plunge swimsuit options!

 

Favorite Tee | Easy Pattern Hacks

 

Lace Up V-Neck:

As if  the Favorite Tee was not amazing enough, we have a few easy hacks for it that will make you want to sew even more of them. The first time I saw a lace up V-neck shirt on Pinterest I knew I had to make myself one so I will show you how easy it is to get the look by using the Favorite Tee pattern. You will need the pattern printed and cut in your size (use the V neck option), a little bit of interfacing, 10 grommets and some cord.

Favorite Tee dress option (lengthen 1.5″ in the front and unhemmed)

Start by adding some tricot or light weight interfacing to the V neck band. Cut 2 strips of interfacing about 7 inches long by the width of the band. Cut out the V at one end and iron the interfacing to the neckband.

Sew the shirt or dress as per the pattern tutorial. I chose the dress because you know…one can never have too many dresses. You can certainly do this neckline with either one of the shirt length too. You will now need to mark the grommets location.

You can measure about one inch up on each side of the V band starting with the front center seam. Mark that spot. Keep adding a mark every one inch up on each side. I used 5 grommets on each side.

There are different size and color eyelets that you can use. I went with a brown/copper-ish finish for mine because I liked how it looked against the marble fabric.

ohhh the choices 🙂

Follow the manufacture instructions for adding the eyelets. I know there are more expensive devices out there but I am very pleased with my $1.50 Dritz eyelet tool so that’s what I used.

For a more edgy look you can make a faux leather binding and thread it through the eyelets.

You are almost done. All you have to do now is lace up the neckband with a cord. You can use parachute cord, or faux suede cord like I used for my final pics or you can make your own. Tadah! You have just created your very own Pinterest worthy lace up Vneck shirt or dress.

Favorite Tee dress length (1.5″ longer in the front than the pattern and not hemmed)

Favorite Tee dress length (1.5″ longer in the front than the pattern and not hemmed)

Curved Hem Lace Insert:

Adding lace to your finished garments is a fun way to add some extra sweet details.  You can use a lace applique, or in this instance, I used a scalloped edge mesh lace.  I chose the curved hem but you could use the other side split hem options if you’d prefer.  Print, cut and assemble your pattern as usual.  I wanted the curved hem to start a little higher on my hip so adjusted the length of the side seam. I stopped about 6″ from the bottom of the side seam.

Since I stopped higher than the original side seam, my curve ended up looking a little funky, so I trimmed the edges to make a nice clean curve.

Hem using your fabric stretch stitch.  (Need some tips on hemming a curved hem?  Check out Alex’s post HERE)

Next, open up your side seam and place your applique right side up to the wrong side of your main fabric.  Position as you wish and top-stitch in place.  *Note – be sure to measure your pattern piece from the curved hem line to side seam and make the applique at it’s widest point a similar measurement (near the bottom hem). Otherwise, you may loose some ease at the hip.

 Trim the applique or fabric if needed.

High Side Split Hem:  

The side split hem for both shirt and tunic lengths is a fun detail on it’s own, but we thought we’d take it up a notch (no pun intended 😉 ) and make those slits sky high.  Ok,  so maybe not that high but we did take them up quite a bit.  Using the average 8″ side waist measurement (based on a 5’5″ frame), construct your pattern as instructed but stop your side seam stitch at 8″ below the armpit.  Finish the side split as noted in the pattern.  Easy Peasy and no added steps or items needed!

This pairs perfectly with our Cross my Heart Cami to show off those layers.

Or, leave it un-layered and open with a high waist Pirate Pencil Skirt or some skinnies. Either way, you’re sure to be on trend.

Convinced you need the pattern yet?  The Favorite Tee is loaded with options and these simple hacks/mods give you that little extra to start filling up your closet without the worry of having too many duplicates.  I know they’re our new Favorite Tee 😉

Timeless Hacks

 

We are so excited to share the Timeless Tunic with you guys that we couldn’t help but share just a few easy mods you can do to have even more fun with this new woven pattern!

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First up is the Crop Length: This is a super easy mod that is great for pairing with high-waisted bottoms.

 

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Cut bodice pieces and skip the 2 skirt pieces.  Sew up the bodice following the tutorial like normal.  When you’re at the point of attaching the skirt you will instead create a casing with just the bottom edge of the bodice (just like the 3/4 and long sleeve options).

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Fold up the bottom raw edge 1/2″ to wrong side, and again another 1/2″ hiding raw edge.

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Edge stitch along top fold, leaving about 1.5″ un-stitched.  Feed your waist elastic in, around and out of the casing using a safety pin or other tool.

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Stitch elastic ends together using a wide zigzag (Make sure not to flip or twist your elastic as you’re guiding it through and stitching into a circle).

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Pull elastic all the way into the casing.  Stitch remaining 1.5″ closed.

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Wah-Lah!

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Now you have an adorable crop length that you can pair with your favorite high-waisted bottoms and not have to worry about tucking i in and getting any lumps and bumps from the bottom. I paired mine with the Pirate Pencil Skirt in the high waist and midi length option.

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Split Sleeve and Curved Dress Hemline by Angela.

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A big fashion trend that I’ve been seeing recently is a pretty split sleeve and the new Timeless Tunic and dress is the perfect pattern to easily add a split sleeve.  I’m also a big fan of a curved hem, so I’m also going to show you how to add the curved hem to the dress length.  Let’s get started!

First thing we are going to do is draw a line from the shoulder seam directly down the middle all the way down to the bottom of our sleeve piece.  This is going to be our extra cut line to create 4 pieces.  Now, if you’re lazy like me, you can just cut your sleeve out as normal and then cut down the center line that you created right thru your pattern and fabric. Make sure you don’t forget your notches!! It’s really easy to make a mistake without those notches as you will now have 4 sleeve pieces.  Next you’re are going to need to create your binding strips. To do this, I just measured that line we created on the pattern to determine how long the binding needs to be and I added a inch extra just to be safe.  As we are binding a straight piece you don’t have to worry about cutting your binding on the bias.  I just cut mine the length of my piece by 1.5 inches wide.

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Next you’re going to press your binding just like you would any other binding or bias tape. Fold in half lengthwise and press and then press the edges into the center.

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You’re going to pin the right side of the binding to the wrong side of your sleeve and sew in the first pressed line which is a 3/8″ seam.

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Once you have sewn the seam, press the seam allowance up towards the binding and then fold your binding down and repin so that the fold on your binding meets the seam line.  I like to pull mine just slightly over the seam so that when you edge stitch you don’t see the seam underneath.  You will then edge stitch your binding down.  You are going to do this on all 4 of your sleeve pieces.

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Time to sew the sleeves on! Easy peesy- you just match the top of your binding to the top center of your sleeve and make sure that your sleeve binding are right against each other.  Make double sure that your notches match here too, ask me how I know!  Now you will continue constructing as shown.  When you get to your sleeve casings you can sew your casing flat and insert your elastic.  I then sewed the elastic together to form your circle and then pull your casing over the elastic so you can’t see it.

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On to the curved hem! This is super simple too.  I started by tracing off the tunic curve on the front skirt and then lined up the curve to the side seam so that the bottom of the curve was at the bottom of of the dress length and traced it on. You will need to extend your line just a tad at the center as the dress is aline so it doesn’t match on both edges. (This is going to make your dress length a bit shorter on the sides so if you are worried about that add a little length) I then cut my new curved hem.  For the back you want to also trace off your tunic curved hem but as it is a different curve then the front you want to make sure that your side seams are going to match.  The back hem will dip a bit lower then the dress length so you will need to tape some paper onto the bottom of your back piece so that you can trace your curve easily.  I found the easiest way to get your hems to match was to take your front piece and place it on your back piece, matching the side seams and mark where your front curve starts on the back piece and then place you back curve on that mark and trace.  Cut your new hem line and continue constructing as normal.

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Hope you enjoyed these easy hacks and please share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group, we love seeing what you make!

 

V Neck Modification by Alex.

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The much anticipated woven tunic and dress is finally here! The Timeless Tunic includes 3 sleeve lengths, a sleeveless option and two hem lengths. So why not add a V-neckline to the mix? 😉 I am a very big fan of V-necklines, I find them flattering on all sizes and shapes so today I will show you how I hacked the Timeless Tunic to get a V-neck look.

First of all print your pattern in the size needed, grab a ruler, a marker and some paper because we’ll do some light drafting. Ready?

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Tape your pattern as per the instructions and set aside the front facing. We will  draft another front facing shortly. Grab the front bodice piece and mark 3 inches. You can do less or more depending on how deep you’d like the cleavage. For my example I lowered the neckline about 3 inches. Once you mark that point on the center fold line, draw a straight line from where the neckline begins to curve to your marked point. Cut along the line and discard the little pieces.

TIP: If you prefer to save the original front bodice piece, then just fold along the marked line and tuck the little piece under the pattern. This way you can re-use this pattern for the regular curved neckline again simply by unfolding it.

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Now that you have your front bodice piece ready, all we have to do is draft the front bodice facing. My V-neck Timeless dress is the sleeve option so you’ll see the sleeve facing throughout this tutorial. You can use the same suggestions and draft the sleeveless front facing option, too. Grab the original front facing, lay it over the front bodice and mark the shoulder width on it.

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Now lay a piece of paper (preferably  tracing paper but good ole printer paper will do, too, as you can see) over the V-neck front bodice. Trace the shoulder and the V-neckline on the paper. Mark about 2.75 inches down where the fold line will be. Using a French Curve (or drawing very slowly), draw a curve from the outer shoulder point to the bottom point of the center fold. That’s it! You’ve now drafted a new V-neck front facing.

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Cut the fabric (and interfacing) using the V-neck bodice and the new V-neck front facing you just created. The rest of the pattern pieces and elastic will remain the same as the original pattern.

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Sew your dress or tunic following the pattern’s directions. When sewing the bodice to the facing around the neckline, I prefer to start from the V point, sew around the neckline and end at the V point where I started. If you start at the shoulder seam, make sure to pivot when you get to the V point of the neckline.

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TIP: When you snip the seam allowance around the neckline, don’t forget to cut a little V piece at the pointed spot. It will make your neckline lay nice and flat once you press it.

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Finish sewing the tunic or dress as per the pattern tutorial. Now you have your very own Timeless Tunic with a V-neckline. As always, I can’t wait to see your creations in the group . Sew like a pirate!

 

Sheer Overlay by Nicole

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There are some gorgeous woven fabrics available but some may be a little too sheer to wear sans under-layer or finish the neck and armholes with the facings method found in the pattern.  With a couple of easy changes, you can use fabrics like chiffon or lace.  I chose to use a chiffon and left my sleeves sheer but needed the extra coverage in the bodice and skirt.

Once you decide on your fabrics (that’s the hard part, right? 😉 ) you will cut the following:

(1) Main fabric bodice – front and back, (1) Main fabric skirt – front and back, (1) lining – front and back, (1) lining skirt – front and back ( I shortened the hem by 1″ as I used a rolled hem on the edges and did not want it to peek out the bottom edge)  (1) front and back facing (2) main fabric sleeve mirror image.  Note: Lightweight woven fabrics like chiffon are delicate.  When ironing the fusible interfacing, proceed with caution and use a pressing cloth.

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For assembly of the bodice, you will treat your front and back as one piece.  Place main fabric and lining right sides up (wrong side of main fabric touching right side of lining) and baste along the edges or using a washable basting spray to keep the two layers together.  Construct main bodice as shown in pattern.

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For the skirt, I did not want them attached at the side seam so I stitched the side seams of both the main fabric and lining separately, creating two skirts.  Slip your lining skirt inside your main fabric with right sides out (wrong side of main fabric touching right side of lining).  I serged my two skirt together at the top edge to make attaching them to the bodice a little easier.  Continue construction as shown in the pattern.

img_6612  P4P Timeless Tunic PDF Pattern Sheer Overlay

 

Easy enough….right?! The constructions doesn’t change any and should not be any more difficult to put together.  Working with slinky fabrics is the hard part but with a little patience you’ll get through it in no time.

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Make it in knit!

We all love the quick and ease of sewing up a knit, right?! You can sew this pattern in a knit with no modifying! Here is Alex’s in a rayon spandex with no modifications other than about 1.5″ added to skirt length for a personal preference on skirt length.  She kept the dart and facings as is in the pattern exactly and sewed her size on the measurement chart.  With knits you can have less wearing ease and be comfortable, so you could size down if you wanted a more fitted look compared to the woven option.  She looks fabulous and she didn’t have to iron it 😉 lol!

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