Patterns for Pirates

P4P stylish, modern, wearable patterns

All Gather Round Hacks

ALL GATHER ROUND HACKS

Ruffle on Short Sleeve Hack:

Copy your favorite ready-to-wear look with this simple hack!

Adding a ruffle to the sleeve of the new Gather ‘Round pattern is a very simple hack to further extend the versatility of your pattern.

Start by cutting out the short sleeve pattern pieces.

Measure the bottom hemline.

Multiply that measurement by 1.75 to get the length of your ruffle piece (i.e. 12” x 1.75 = 21”).

I made a ruffle that is 2.5” long, but you can make yours longer or shorter to your preference. My sleeve hem was 12” so I cut my ruffle pieces 3” tall (to accommodate the seam allowance on both ends) x 21” long.

Use your preferred gathering method to fit the ruffle to the sleeve. Baste in place, then sew.

From this point forward, complete your make per the pattern instructions.

Skirt only Hack:

I have been all over the swirly skirt and crop top look this year, and when we started testing the All Gather Round I couldn’t resist making the skirt section on its own to add to my collection.

This is the simplest and easiest hack out there, just head over and grab the waistband pattern piece in your size from the FREE  Peg Legs pattern.

I used a viscose elastane fabric for the skirt pieces, but that wouldn’t have worked for the waistband as it wouldn’t have enough body to hold the skirt up.  I decided on a plain black cotton/lycra for my waistband, but whatever you use it will need great stretch and recovery as the skirt can end up pretty heavy with all those tiers attached.  Then cut your fabric for the waistband using the Pegs pattern piece.

Cut your skirt pieces according to the instructions for the All Gather Round.  I had:

1 x waistband

2 x top tier

3 x mid tier

5 x bottom tier

(the tier pieces are folded in the photo above, just to get them all in the pic)

Then simply construct your skirt according to the tutorial for the All Gather Round but instead of attaching it to the bodice you attach it to the waistband.  It really couldn’t be easier!

Give it a good press with some steam to help the gathers behave, and you’re all done.  Enjoy your new twirly, swirly skirt!  I’m wearing this with the crop length top from the Rainbow Dress Pattern

 

Exposed Seam Hack:

I have been seeing dresses and tops with exposed seams everywhere lately, and a hack showcasing this fun trend could not be simpler!

First, choose your options for the Gather ’round Dress, and complete the steps up to Step 4. That means you’ll be constructing your bodice, adding optional pockets if desired and sewing the side seams of your skirt tiers.

At this point, you may choose to finish the raw edges of your skirt tiers, as these will be exposed once the dress is complete. This is completely up to you! I chose to do so on this version, because I like the more finished look it gave it, although leaving the edges raw is also just fine. Just make sure that if you do choose this option, to be careful NOT to cut any of the seam allowance off with your serger.

Next, select the top tier of your skirt, and run two rows of gathering stitches across the top long edge, as directed in the pattern tutorial. You’ll want to have it line up roughly with the circumference of your bodice, as shown here.

The next step is where the exposed seams come into play! This time, attach the top skirt tier to the bodice WRONG SIDES together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn your dress right side out. At this point, particularly if you’ve used a different colored bodice lining like I have here, you’ll want to trim the seam allowance of the bodice ONLY, being careful not to cut through the stitching. This will reduce bulk and enable your skirt to lay more nicely as well.

Press the seam allowance up toward the bodice, and topstitch just below the exposed edge of the skirt.

Depending on the options you’ve chosen for your Gather ’round Dress, repeat these steps until all skirt tiers are attached. Hem as usual.

You’ve done it! Now step back and admire your gorgeous and trendy exposed seams.

 

Gathered Cap Sleeve with Long Sleeves Hack:

I really love the flutter and long sleeve combo and it’s super simple to achieve!

Follow the Gather ‘Round dress tutorial for adding the gathered cap sleeves to the bodice but use a basting stitch.

Place the right side of the long sleeve on top of the wrong side of the gathered cap sleeve, and attach flat, easing the shoulder of the sleeve to match the armscye. Pull out all basting stitches.

With right sides together and matching the armpit seam. Pin and stitch the side seam from the sleeve hem to the bottom edge of the bodice. Continue with tutorial to attach the skirt.

Voila! All done!

24/7 Tank Hack

24/7 Tank Hack

If there is something I am always looking for a little bit more of in life, it’s comfort!  I started making all my own bras a few years ago, and a soft and comfortable knit bra pattern is something I just love.  When we made the 24/7 Tank in testing I couldn’t get enough of the integral bra with it, and knew I had to hack it to make the perfect everyday undies for me too.

I used a lovely athletic jersey fabric from Crafty Baba, here in the UK, with a 95/5 cotton lycra from my lining.  You need a stable fabric with good stretch and great recovery. This honestly couldn’t be much easier to do. I started by tracing the bra pieces from the 24/7 Tank pattern, and then added 1/4″ seam allowance onto the neckline and armscye curves of both the front and back bra pattern pieces.  In my pictures below, the original pattern is traced in black biro and the extra 1/4″ seam allowance is drawn in a permanent marker, to make it a little easier to see.

Then I cut out the following pieces:

FRONT

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh (optional but gives better support)

BACK

1 x Outer

1 x Lining

1 x Inner lining in powermesh

ELASTIC

1 x under bust elastic cut to measurements provided in pattern.

Sew your outer fabric together at the shoulder seams, right sides together using your regular 1/2″ seam allowance.

Optionally, for your lining you can baste the inner lining to the wrong sides of the lining fabric before you sew the shoulder seams together, this helps make sure everything gets layered together properly.  I didn’t in this example as I was comfortable handling everything without but it’s easy to get confused.

Then sew your lining together at the shoulder seams, right sides together.  Your fabric should be layered as such: back inner lining power mesh, back lining right sides up, front lining right sides down, front inner lining power mesh.

Next lay the lining fabric out flat, right sides up (the attached power mesh inner lining will be at the bottom).  Lay the outer fabric right sides down on top.  Pin or clip the fabric together around the neckline. Sew together using your favourite stretch stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  I sew 1/4″ clear elastic into the seam as I go using my overlocker/serger.  This helps recovery of the seam and gives greater support for a larger bust.

 

Next you will flip the garment right sides out again through the neckhole. Press carefully.

We will now finish the armscyes using a burrito roll method.  You can follow this video tutorial for the Boundless dress which guides you through step by step, just remember we are only using a 1/4″ seam allowance for the armscyes. Burrito Roll Method – P4P You Tube

Or the written instructions are to lay the fabric out flat, rights sides out.  Then roll one side of the bodice up towards the other side.

When you get near the top, flip the bottom of the open edges out under the roll and up over the top of it to encase the roll inside the open edge.

Then pin or clip along the length of the curved armscye.  Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance being careful to keep the roll of fabric inside the shoulder strap well out of the way of the stitches.

Pull your garment right sides out through the finished shoulder strap.  Here you can see the left side is finished and the right is not.

To finish the right side too, lay the garment out again and roll the finished side up towards the unfinished side. Then flip the bottom fabric on the unfinished side out under the roll, and up over the top to encase it again, like before.  Stitch again.

Pull your garment right sides out through the shoulder strap once more and give it a press.

Now we just have to finish the side seams.  To do this we open out the main from the lining on both the front and back, and clip them right sides together, matching main with main and lining with lining.  Then sew the side seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Repeat on the other side.

Your bra is now almost finished, you just have to stitch the elastic to the bottom.  Butt the edges of the elastic together and sew them together using a wide, short zig zag stitch.  Then quarter the elastic and the bottom of the bra and sew the elastic on as per the instructions in the 24/7 Tank tutorial.

 

You’re all done!  I hope you love your comfy new lounge bra.  They’re so quick to make you can whip up another in next to no time.

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Dana xxx

 

 

Kelli Dress Hacks

Straight Cut Skirt

I absolutely had to make this dress as soon as I saw Judy’s first sketches for the pattern. I love the cinched in waist and wrap over top and skirt, it’s just my kind of look. Sometimes it’s nice to have a little more coverage on a skirt, though, and I knew I wanted to try a really simple little hack to straighten the bottom edge of the underskirt piece, for a faux wrapover look.

The option is included for the full length skirt pieces, so it was the easiest hack to do and got me just the look I wanted for me.

The rest of the pattern is cut out as normal, the only piece we will be adjusting is the underskirt piece (the un-ruched skirt piece).

I was making the knee length, so I simply measured from the top of the skirt down to the knee length cut line on the right of the skirt pattern piece.  Then I took that measurement (for me making the plus 2X size it was 25 3/4″), and used it to measure down the same length on the left side, using the full length skirt piece as a guide.

I am projecting onto tracing paper here to make it easier for you to see, as my fabric was a bit busy!

Then just draw a straight line across the bottom of the pattern piece to create your new straight hem skirt piece.

If you are using a projector, like me, you can also bring up the handy measurement grid included with the file for calibration, and use that as a guide for drawing a nice straight line across the pattern piece.

 

As I said, this is the only pattern piece that needs adjusting.  Then just sew up your dress as per the tutorial for the pattern, until you get to the instructions for the skirt pieces.

Follow the instructions for the floor length skirt pieces and hem the bottom of the ruched skirt piece, then gather the side as per the tutorial.  Next construct the back skirt and then hem both the back and un-ruched skirt pieces (the piece we adjusted) separately.

Finally, lay the un-ruched skirt piece facing up.  Then lay the ruched skirt piece facing up on top of it. Baste them together along the top and sides, making sure the hems line up nicely with one another.  Here is a picture of the ruched skirt piece laying on top of the un-ruched skirt piece prior to basting.

Lastly, you will want to lay your back skirt piece, right side facing down on top of the two front skirt pieces.  Here pictured below with the bottom corner flipped up so you can more easily see the layers.

Sew the side seams, taking care to make sure the hems all line up together nicely.  Basting the first inch of each side seam at the hemline can help with that.

Flip the skirt through right sides out, and finish the construction of the waist seam as the tutorial instructs and you’re done!

Nice and quick and easy.  I hope you love your new straight hem skirt as much as I do mine (which is quite a lot!)

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana xxx

 

Side Seam Splits for Floor Length with No Slit

If you feel like you need a little more stride/walking room in the floor length with no split you can easily add a side split (or apply this same method to the back seam for a back slit).

Simply stop stitching the side seams of the skirt where you would like the slits to go to.  Press remaining 1/2″ seam allowance not sewn to wrong side and hem.

It’s that’s simple! Now enjoy your extra walking room in your floor length dress!

 

 

All Buttoned-Up | Easy Hacks

Grab those buttons and snaps…the All Buttoned Up pattern is here!! What a beautiful staple for year round sewing. We am so excited to bring you two easy hacks for the All Buttoned Up pattern that will give you even more options. First off, the gorgeous Dana is showing how to achieve the – ohh so popular – lettuce hem look. In the second half of the blog, our talented Rachel is creating separates with the ABU pattern. Yes!

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LETTUCE HEM HACK

 

If you are looking to give a cute and flirty finish to your new cardigan, a lettuce hem is a great way to go. It’s quick and easy and looks fantastic.  Here’s how to do it!

First you will want to remove your hem allowance.  Shorten the bottom edge of your bodice piece by 1”, and the bottom edge of your sleeves by ½”.  Cut out the rest of your pieces as normal.

Then continue with the tutorial instructions until you reach the part where you are told to memory press the hems.  We don’t have hems so instead you will sew the bottom half of the side seams together.  This will enable you to hem the whole of the bottom edge in one go.  (You can’t sew the whole of the side seam, otherwise you will have to hem your sleeves in the round, which is a little tricky with a rolled hem).

Next we will change our overlocker/serger onto its settings for a 3 thread, narrow rolled hem.  You will need to remove your left needle and then change your tensions, stitch length, width and differential feed. Your manual will show you how to do this.  This is the page from my manual for reference but different machines will have slightly different settings.

 The only difference between a lettuce hem and a regular narrow rolled hem is to decrease the differential feed down as far as it goes, and to gently pull the fabric to stretch it as you feed it into the presser foot.  Both of these actions will stretch the fabric as it is sewn, and helps give the wobbly lettuce edge.

You can also slow the fabric as it comes out of the back of the feed dogs, and gently stretch the hem once it is sewn, as this increases the ruffled look.

Then, once you have perfected your narrow rolled hem on scrap fabric you can hem both sleeves and the bottom edge of the cardigan.

 

Reset your machine to its previous settings and finish sewing the side seams, from the hem edge of the sleeve up to the underarm, and down to join the top of the previous side seam stitching. Weave in your tails, or trim and finish with fray stop.

Construct the rest of your garment as per the pattern tutorial.

You’re done! Enjoy your fun new cardigan.

 

 

Happy Sewing

Dana x

 

 

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SEPARATES

Versatility is a requirement in my wardrobe so I always put my patterns to work for me. As soon as I saw the All Buttoned Up Cardigan, I knew I wanted to create separates, too!

For this make, I worked up a cropped cardigan and a pencil skirt, with the crew neck and self-facing placket options. You can follow the same method for the v-neck with banded placket.

Start with the dress length cardigan and cut the full length piece in half at the “Crop” length line. You will now have your cardigan and skirt pieces separated.

Construct your cardigan per the pattern directions.

Assemble your skirt by stitching together at the back and sides.

Cut fusible interfacing strips that are 1.5” wide by the length of your skirt. Iron on the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, aligning with the front edges of your skirt. Just as you did with the cardigan, press the front edge ¾” towards the inside and press.

Cut your waistband 5” tall by the length of the top of your skirt, minus ½”. For example, the top of my skirt is 31” wide so I cut my band 30.5” long.

From here you have 2 options. If your fabric has great stretch and recovery, you can cut 2 strips of interfacing ¾” wide by 5” tall. Fuse them to your fabric ½” from the edge.

 

If your fabric has poor recovery, you will want to cut a piece of 2” elastic to sew into your band. No interfacing is required because your elastic will provide stability to your waistband.

Assemble your waistband using the same instructions that you completed for the neckband.

Stitch your waistband to the top of your skirt, ¾” away from the front edge of your skirt.

Complete your skirt placket, buttons, and hem using same instructions for the cardigan.

 

Wear your pieces together for a coordinated look or separately with jeans or a sweater… your options are unlimited!

Happy sewing!

Rachel

We hope you enjoyed these simple modifications to the All Buttoned Up pattern. Don’t forget to share your creations in the P4P Facebook group and on Instagram so we can all admire them!

Paperbag Pants + Skirt :: Easy Hacks

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Drawstring

 

No elastic on hand, no problem you can still sew up your Paperbag pants, shorts or skirts and just add a drawstring instead!  Lets get started!

All pieces will be the same with the exception of the belt, if you are wanting to make your own drawstring you will cut 2 belt pieces instead of 4 as we are not going to use the lining pieces.  You can also used premade drawstring if you don’t want to make your own, you will just need to cut it the length of two belt pieces.

You are going to sew up your pants or skirt exactly as shown in the pattern until you get to your waist band.  Take your front waistband piece, iron it lengthwise in half and mark the center front and both your seam allowances and casing.  You will also want to mark two buttonholes on either side of your center front.  I placed mine about 3/4 of a inch from the center front on both sides, centering them in the middle of the casing section. (the middle section) I would also recommend adding interfacing to the back of your fabric where you are planning on sewing your buttonholes to add some stability.

Next you will sew your buttonholes on your sewing machine, make sure you are only sewing them through the one layer of fabric on the front waistband where you have marked.  Now you can finish your waistband as indicated in the pattern and attach it to your pants or skirt. Tip: instead of buttonholes you could add grommets for a different look.

If you are using premade drawstring you will just thread your drawstring through your buttonhole into the casing.  If you are wanting to make a matching drawstring you will sew your two belt pieces together along the short ends just like the instructions state for the belt, finish the seam or trim with pinking sheers.  Next fold the belt in half, long edges together and sew down the long edge with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  Trim the seam allowance close to the seam but not through and turn your tube inside out to form your drawstring and press well. I just use a safety pin to turn my drawstring inside out but you can use whatever method you find easiest.  If you would like you can topstitch the drawstring as well.  You can also finish the ends or just knot the ends as I have done here.  Insert your drawstring into your casing and you are done!

 

 

Angela

 

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Half  ties

 

If you like the idea of a belt but are a bit short on fabric, or like me, constantly lose separate belts, then this hack will show you how to make a half-belt, sewn into the side seams of the new Paperbag Pants.

First of all you will cut out your pattern pieces as usual, except for the belt pieces.  For the belt you will simply cut out 3 belt pieces, instead of 4; and only 2 belt loops, instead of 3.

 

 

Construct your trousers/shorts as per the tutorial until you come to the waistband and belt pieces. Then take your 3 belt pieces and sew the short sides together until you have one long piece.  Fold it in half and cut to make 2 pieces, then take each of those 2 pieces and cut them in half until you have 4 pieces of even length.

 

You will have two pieces without a seam and 2 pieces that have a seam in the middle.  Take one piece without a seam and one piece with a seam and sew them right sides together, starting from the short edge nearest the seam, up one long edge, across the top and back down the other long edge, leaving the bottom short edge open. Clip the corners and turn through.  Press and top stitch.

 

Next, take your waistband pieces and lay the back piece out facing up, then measure ½” from the bottom edge and lay one of your waist ties on it, with the side that has the seam facing up.  Lay the front waistband piece, facing down, on top of it.  Pin/clip and sew down the short side of the waistband, sandwiching the waist tie in the centre.  Repeat for the other side.

 

Fold the waistband wrong sides together and press.  Sew your channel for the elastic, as instructed in the tutorial, being careful to move your waist ties out of the way as you come to the side seams so that you don’t catch them in the stitching.

 

 

Sew the waistband on as normal, the only difference is that you will only be using the front belt loops (2 in total), thread in your elastic, and you can finish off by tying your waist ties in a bow!

 

 

Enjoy your new garment and never have to worry about losing those waist ties again.

 

 

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

Be Bold Bodysuit – Easy Hacks

The much anticipated Be Bold Bodysuit has now released. I couldn’t be more thrilled to share with you some easy hacks that the P4P blog team has prepared for you. We will show you how to add a your favorite P4P skirt to the crop top and make it a custom dress. Rachel is adding a faux placket to her Be Bold Bodysuit and Shannon is making a very cropped 😉 crop option. Ohh and did I mention that you can turn the BBB into an undergarment compression bodysuit? Djem is showing you how below. 

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Dress 

Let’s start off this easy hacks series with my favorite of all – a dress!! Hello, beautiful! The Be Bold Bodysuit includes a crop top option which makes an excellent bodice for many of the P4P skirt patterns. 

In the mini tutorial below, Judy shows you how to add the X Factor skirt to the Be Bold crop to to create a gorgeous, comfortable square neckline dress. Print the skirt portion of the X Factor pattern and cut the fabric. Sew the side seams right sides together. 

Mark the center of the skirt front and back as well as the centers of the bodice front and back. 

Matching the marked points, pin the skirt and bodice right sides together. Serge or sew with you favorite stretch and a 1/2″ seam allowance. 

Hem the skirt and enjoy your new Be Bold dress! 

I used the same method as above to make a Be Bold – Sweetheart mash. Instead of using the X Factor, I use the Sweetheart dress, Easy peasy! My next mash will be with the Boundless dress. If you chose to to the Be Bold crop with the Boundless gathered skirt, make sure that you use the cutting chart for the natural waist skirt, NOT the empire one. 

My dress below is bamboo spandex and Judy’s baby girl’s dress above is cotton spandex. 

Just look how stunning Sylvia looks in her Be Bold thin strap option mashed with the Sweetheart dress. Her polka dots fabric is double brushed poly. Just radiant! 

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Faux Placket

Adding a faux placket is an easy way to gain extra mileage from your Be Bold pattern. And it couldn’t be easier!

You can add a faux placket to any of the Be Bold styles, but I chose to add mine to the tank bodysuit.

Did I say that it couldn’t be easier? Keep reading…

Cut the pattern pieces for your preferred Be Bold style.

Cut an additional rectangle, 6.5” x 1.75”.

Optional! Finish the edges on your serger, without cutting off any of the seam allowance. It adds a bit of stability to your placket.

Fold the bottom and side edges in ¼” towards the wrong side and press into place.

Pin your placket piece to the center line of your bodice, aligning raw edges at the top of the placket and neckline. At this point, I like to use hem tape to secure the placket into place.

Edgestitch into place. Fun tip! Use your blind hem foot to help keep your topstitching super-straight!

Assemble the rest of the garment per the pattern instructions.

Add your buttons once your garment is complete so they don’t get in the way of your construction.

I mentioned it was simple, right?? Enjoy the newest addition to your spring wardrobe!

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Compression undergarment

Love the Be Bold Bodysuit, but want a little tummy control? No problem. It’s all about fabric choice. You’ll want to use a heavy athletic knit with a high spandex content, like supplex or compression tricot. In my navy bodysuit below, I used supplex for the main fabric and lined the front and back bodysuit with power mesh. I treated the supplex and power mesh as one layer and followed the tutorial as written. However, if you are looking for something compressive, that can be worn as an undergarment, you’ll want something a little more like the black bodysuit on the right.

 

For the black bodysuit, I used tricot for the main fabric and power mesh for the lining. The only adjustments were made to the front bodice pattern piece.

 

  1. Mark 1.5″ down from the armpit of the front pattern piece.
  2. Using the bottom curve of the Front Shelf Bra as a guide, create a line.

 

3.  Measure from your side seam to where you feel the start of your bra cup. Mine is about 3″, mark this measurement on your pattern.

4. From the top of the shoulder seam, mark 2.5″ down. Connect the lines as illustrated above.

5. Using a french curve ruler or whatever you have around (I used a drinking glass), create a curve connecting the shoulder seam line and the underbust line.

6.  Cut out that section, and you now have your new front pattern piece! Using this piece, cut out your main fabric and lining on the fold.

7. Follow the construction of the tutorial as written, treating the deep plunge as a normal neckline. You will want to use a 1:1 ratio for the picot, while slightly stretching along the curve.

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Very crop top

This very cropped cami and top are super comfortable and perfect to wear under low-cut tops and for loungewear. I will be living in these and the best part is they are so quick and easy to make. Here are the two tutorials for creating the crop. The first shows the tutorial using the thin strap option and the second is the tank option.

Very Crop Cami Using the Thin Strap Option:

  1. Take your lining pieces for your pattern. Simply cut 2 fronts and 2 backs following the thin strap tank lines to create a cropped cami with lining. 
  2. Sew the top together using the thin strap tank directions from the tutorial. 
  3. Once you have sewn the side seams, baste the main and lining pieces together along the bottom edge. Treat these two as one while you attach the picot as directed in the pattern.  

This cropped cami is great for pairing with low cut tops for some extra coverage. I made this option in white cotton jersey, lined with the same fabric and used bra strap elastic in place of fabric straps. (paired here with RTW Jeans and Top).

Very Cropped Top Using the Tank Option

  1. Take both your front and back bodice pieces and lay the front and back shelf bra liner pieces on top, lining up the shoulders. 
  2. Draw a line on your front and back main bodice pieces along the bottom of the shelf bra piece. 
  3. Cut your main bodice pattern pieces on this line and use this for your new pattern.
  4. Cut your main fabric for the very crop tank top using your new pieces and cut your lining from the shelf bra lining pieces. Follow the tutorial for sewing the tank top. Once you have the neckline, arms, and side seams sewn, baste the lining and main fabric together along the bottom edge. You will now treat the two fabrics as one piece. Last, apply picot elastic according to the tutorial for the shelf bra.  That’s it.

This very cropped top is great to wear in place of a bra or sewn up in athletic fabric to match with your favorite workout wear. This is not supportive enough to be a sports bra, but very comfortable for lounging, a sleep bra, or paired with your own bra as a very cropped top.

 

I hope you will get to give these easy hacks a try. Which one will you do first? Don’t forget to share them in the P4P Facebook group and on Instagram so we can admire your work too! 

Sweater Weather – easy hacks

 

From brrrrrr to ummmm! This cold days, stay nice and warm with the newest P4P pattern, the Sweater Weather! Our blog contributors team has put together some quick and easy hacks to give you even more options to the pattern. Dana is showing you how to make a wonderful Sweater Weather dress, Jody ditches the side seams for a classic banded look and I took the sweater from winter to summer. Let’s get started! 

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Dress

I live in sweater dresses in the winter months because it gets cold in the UK.  I couldn’t resist doing a little hack to the new Sweater Weather length to recreate a Pinspiration I’ve had on my to-do list for a while.

I measured the front pattern piece and then held the tape measure up to myself to decide how much length I wanted to add.  I decided to go with 6 inches extra added to the tunic length, which is a little more that I would normally add but there is a hi-low cutline, and so I wanted to make sure the front would be long enough for decency. 


I use a projector these days and it was as simple as adding 6 inches extra length to the bottom of the front and back bodice pattern pieces, which I did on the fly with my perspex quilting ruler and rotary cutter.

However I also printed out the pattern piece so you could see how it would work on paper too.  The pink paper is the added section. I then decided to mark the notch for my side slit 2 inches up from the bottom edge of the pattern, but this would be up to you.  I chase a 7 year old and a puppy around all day so I didn’t want that side split going too high, but you could go with whichever height you choose.  Then repeat for your back piece.

The only other change I made was to copy the bishop sleeve look from my inspiration pic, and I did that by just cutting the bell sleeve width to the slim cuffed sleeve length.  Projector and paper pattern piece pictures below:

Then I cheekily used my overlocker/serger to gather the bottom of the sleeve by increasing my stitch length and differential feed to their highest setting and whipping round the bottom of the sleeve piece, which gathered it in just enough to fit the cuff. Perfect!

Finally just construct the rest of the garment as per the instructions in the tutorial, and you’re done!

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

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No side split

Hey everyone! I have another super quick hack for you. As fun as that side split is that comes in the pattern, I was wanting a most basic top, so I decided to do without the side split for this! It’s as simple as adding a bit of length to the front bodice piece, and sewing the two waistband pieces together in a circle! I’ll break it down for you below.

First, you’ll need to make your front and back bodice pieces the same length. I chose to do Top length for this one, and the front bodice piece was about a little over an inch shorter than the back. Since I also use my projector and don’t print out the pattern pieces, I marked the new Top cut line digitally on my PDF file on my computer. In order to figure out how much length to add, I measured from the Split Marking on the side seam down to the Top cut line on the BACK bodice piece. For my size, that distance measured 2.65 inches.

I then measured down from the Split Marking on the side seam of the FRONT bodice piece and marked where the new Top cut line should be. (Doing this with Paper pattern pieces, you would simply lay the back bodice piece over the front piece and see how much extra to add to the bottom of the front!)

This is what the new digitally measured cut line looks like when projected.

Once I cut my bodice pieces (following the newly marked cut line for the front bodice!) You can see that my front and back bodices are the same length now!

Next, you can sew up your shoulder seams, add the sleeves, and then sew your side seams. When sewing the side seams, instead of stopping your stitches at the split marking like you would have to do if you were making the side split, you can just keep on keeping on and sew right on down to the bottom! Like so:

Lastly, you’ll need to create and attach your waistband. Take your two waistband pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch them together along the short ends.

Now fold the waistband circle wrong sides together aligning the raw edges.  You can now slip the waistband on the bottom of the sweater, aligning raw edges, and sew in place.

Now you have a comfy sweater without the extra side split!

Happy Sewing!

-Jody

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Short sleeves

Last but certainly not least I wanted to show you how easy it is to take the Sweater Weather from chilly months to hot summer days. It’s as simple as using lighter fabric and making it short sleeves. For my example, I used custom bamboo spandex (my favorite fabric base!). There are not many modifications you need to do to get the look. Simply skip cutting the sleeves and sleeve cuffs when you gather your pieces. 

Sew the shoulder seems and instructed. Press the sleeve opening 1/2″, wrong sides together as shown below. This will create a memory hem. 

Sew the shirt side seams. Using your favorite stretch stitch (I used my coverstitch) hem the sleeves 1/2″. Press again for a crisp look. 

Tadah! Easiest hack ever! Continue sewing your Sweater Weather top as per the tutorial. 

ALTERNATIVE HACK: If you prefer a longer short sleeve, you can band it instead of hemming it. Before sewing the side seams, measure the opening. Cut two bands 4″ tall by the measurement you just did. Sew each band in a loop (at the short ends) using 1/2″ seam allowance. Press length wise, wrong sides together. Sew the shirt side seams. Attach the cuffs to the sleeve opening, matching the side seam. Press and optionally top stitch the seam allowance towards the sleeve. There you have it! A cuffed short sleeve. 

How adorable is Teri? She tested the Sweater Weather top and made herself a tie die short sleeve one too.

How fun and easy were these? We can’t wait to see your take on these hacks. Share your creations in the Patterns for Pirates FB group or on any social media platforms you use! 

Cozy Pants and Wrap – Easy Hacks

Ready to wrap yourself in cozy goodness and cuddle up with those holiday movies and a hot cocoa? I know I am! The Cozy Wrap and Pants are just the perfect addition to your wardrobe. In this Easy Hacks post the P4P blog team is showing you how to achieve more looks using the newly released patterns. Michelle will walk you through adding a yoga waistband to the pants; Dana and Judy are taking the side split “up a notch”…or two. Rachel is bringing her Cozy Wrap up on the fancy chart by making it a dress and Alex is transforming the belt into two sewn-in ties. Let’s get started! 

 

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High pants split 

First up, a super easy hack that doesn’t even need any adjustments to the pattern pieces. Have you seen those cool high side split pants all over Pinterest? You can achieve the look with the Cozy Pants. The pattern includes two side notches, one for shorts and one for pants length. All you have to do is use the shorts side split marking for the pants option. Sew the pants just as in the tutorial. 

These style looks beautiful in lighter weight fabric and tied at the ankles. See how easy it was? 😊

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Duster wrap with high split

I have had a duster cardigan with a high side split like this pinned on my Pinspiration board for a while, now.  I knew I could make it happen with this really easy hack of the new Cozy Cardi and I love how it turned out!

I have a written blog post below, or if you prefer a video I did one of those, too.  You can find it here:

Cut your pieces out and mark your notches.  In this instance you can see the two pins at the top which mark the notches for the waist tie, and then the pin underneath them is the notch for the shirt length side slit, which we’ll be using here with the midi/duster length cardi to get the look we want. 

Then assemble your pattern as per the tutorial.  The only difference being the side seam will have a much longer hem up to the side split notch than the tutorial photos show.

Don’t forget to give those side seams a good press to open them up.  It really helps you get a good finish and helps the hem lay nicely ready for sewing.  You can see the opening for the waist tie here, just above the tip of my iron.

 

Sew up that side seam hem (don’t forget the waist tie opening) and the hack is done.

 

It really is that easy! Now it’s done I have to make a little pair of shorts to wear with it for the spring/summer.  These winter months will fly by, right? Here’s hoping.

Happy sewing!

 

Dana x

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Sewn in ties

Up next I wanted to show you how to make sure you don’t lose your Wrap belt 😉 I decided for my short sleeve option to actually sew the ties in the side seams instead of creating the belt. Start by cutting the 4 pieces for the belt. instead of making one long belt we will create two ties. Sew 2 of the 4 pieces right sides together along the long edges and one of the short ones. Turn the tie right side out through the raw edge. PRESS! Repeat the steps for the other tie. 

Use the belt hole marking on the pattern to place the ties on each side of the back of the Wrap Top as shown below. Align the raw edges. Sandwich the ties in between the right sides of the back and front pieces. Sew in place with your favorite stretch stitch. 

That’s it! Continue sewing the top as instructed in the pattern. Be cautious of the long ties when stitching, you want to make sure you don’t catch them when you sew the other steps. 

Here you go! The look of the Cozy Wrap without the risk or misplacing the belt. You can tie these in the front or the back of your shirt. 

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Wrap Dress

With a few simple pattern modifications. you can use the Cozy Wrap Top to make an adorable dress!

You will be modifying a few pattern pieces that require custom sizing, so please read through the tutorial before cutting your fabric. The modifications will be dependent upon the size that you are making so I can’t provide exact dimensions for this tutorial.

For this dress, I used the knee length pattern pieces as my starting point.

Lengthen your Front pattern pieces to be the same length as the Back. I lined up the armscyes for the Front and Back pieces to determine how much longer I should extend the Front.

From this point, you will follow assembly instructions for the Cozy Top, including belt openings, but omitting the side split. You will sew the side seams together through the bottom hem.

Once you have the front and back of your dress assembled, you will measure the full length of your bottom hem to determine how wide your Bottom Hem Band should be. You will cut a band that is 8” tall by the length of your measurement.

For reference, mine was 53 ½” by 8” tall. You will fold the band in half, with wrong sides together, and sew to the bottom of your dress without stretching, matching raw edges.

Because you’re lengthening the front of your dress, your neckband will be lengthened by the same amount, adding an additional 1” to accommodate the ½” hem on each end.

Add closures of your choice, like snaps, to the neckband and dress front where you feel most comfortable. I wanted my dress to wrap tightly so I placed my closures near the side seams, on both sides. You’ll need to try on your dress to determine where you want your closures to be.

Now you’re ready to go, with no fear of your dress slipping open!

And the best part? You can still wear your dress as a cardigan. I’m crazy about versatile clothing!

Happy making!!

Rachel

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Yoga Waistband

Anyone else can’t resist a good yoga waistband?? I’m not sure what it is about them but I just love them!  The extra support when folded up or comfort and security when folded over.  Either way, it’s a win in my book!  It’s also a super easy hack to add to your cozy pants and I’m going to show you how.  Essentially we are just doubling the height of your waistband.  If you want to wear your band up and are making the high-rise option, I recommend doing a few inches less than half. If you plan to wear it folded down- doubling is perfect for either the high or low rise waist. 

  

First, you’ll want to print and cut out your chosen waistband piece in your size.  

Now grab a few extra pieces of paper and tape them together.

Next, you’ll want to trace your waistband piece onto your new papers (make sure to leave a little extra room at the bottom).

Then you will line up the edge of the waistband with your traced waistband and tape.   Cut that out and it’ll be your new pattern piece.

Cut your fabric with this new pattern piece and attach as directed in the pattern.  You won’t add any drawstrings to this at all.  Then you are done!

Easy peasy and a fun different look.   Perfect for cozy pants or if you want them to lean towards an “athletic” style you can do that too!

Happy Sewing!

-Michelle

Wow! So many sew options to try! Which one will be your first? Be sure to post your Cozy Wrap and Pants in the Facebook group and on Instagram. We can’t wait to see them! 

X Factor Top and Dress Easy Hacks

 

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Mini or Peplum options

First easy hack that we waned to show you is how to shorten the X Factor dress to a peplum top or mini dress. For my example I decided to make a running dress with a mini skirt. I used swim fabric for this cute green dress.

You will start by grabbing the skirt pattern and marking your new cut lines, one for peplum and one for mini skirt. I used the Sweetheart dress skirt as my guide since that one includes all 3 option. The Sweetheart skirt is a full circle while the X Factor one is a half circle. Lay the X Factor pattern piece on top of the Sweetheart pattern matching the bottom edge. 

Mark the new cutting line starting with the “fold” edge. Using a French curve, or if you have a steady arm, just your hand, draw the two new curves. Make sure that you keep a constant distance from the bottom edge on both sides of the pattern. If you do not have the Sweetheart dress pattern you can measure 5″ up from the bottom for the Mini or 10.25″ up for the Peplum option. 

Once you created your new pattern piece, cut your fabric and sew the dress a instructed in the tutorial. I skipped hemming my swim skirt so mine final mini look is 1″ longer than intended. Your dress, your call! 😉

 

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Tie Back

Crop tops are back in a big way and the X Factor Crop is such a standout! It will take you from the gym to date night (if you’re not too sweaty, of course!)… there aren’t many garments that can do that!

The Patterns for Pirates team always loves to give you even more options. I’m so excited to share with you a tie-back hack for the X Factor! And, it really couldn’t be simpler.

Assemble and cut your preferred pattern pieces. For this make, I chose the cropped tank.

Modifications are so simple!

You will square up the cross-over pieces of the Front Bodice…


And cut 2 of the Back Band pieces (on the fold).

Assemble the top per the pattern instructions, stopping at the step for attaching the Back Band.

From here, you’ll attach your two band pieces, one to each end of the bodice cross-over.

At this step, I serged all of my edges. That is a matter of preference! You can leave them raw if you prefer.

Finally, finish all edges with a narrow hem.

Throw your top on, tie it up, and get ready to turn heads… no matter where you are! You can even experiment with tying and wrapping your top in different ways.

You’ve got the X Factor!!

  

 

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Separates

We couldn’t let this Easy Hacks series end without a separates option, especially since the top is already a stand alone pattern. So for the separated you just need to finish the skirt waist without attaching it to the top. You can do that in various ways. I opted for a simple waistband. I cut 2 of the back band pieces. After pressing them wrong sides together, open them back up and sew the two ends RST to create a loop. 

If your waistband piece has excellent recovery and stretch you can continue marking the quarter points. If you’re not sure, I would add 1-1.5″ wide elastic in the waistband to make sure it stays on throughout the day. 

Mark the skirt quarter point and pin the waistband to it matching said points. Attach the waistband using your favorite stretch stitch. All done. You just created a half circle skirt that pairs beautifully with the X Factor Crop top and not only. 

 

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Nursing friendly  

 

Last but certainly not least Djem is showing us how to modify the X Factor dress to make it nursing friendly. 

 
Prep the front bodice, add lightweight interfacing to the triangle notches. Complete the bodice per tutorial. 
Add elastic to the top of the front skirt using a zigzag stitch. Measure the top of the front skirt and multiply by 90% to get the elastic measurement. I found 1/2” and 3/8” wide elastic to work nicely. Optionally, serge the top of the skirt, without cutting anything off, to have a nicer finish. Continue with the tutorial for the pockets and sewing the skirt side seams. 
 
  Now the fun part! When attaching the skirt to the bodice, drop the front of the skirt at the side seams. 
 
 Find the center of the front skirt and mark. Sew the triangle notches on the bodice together with a stretch stitch. Pin or clip the bodice notches with the center of the front skirt. 
 Tack the bodice notches and skirt together. Keep your tack on the elastic. 
Voilà! 

Sunflower and Busy Bee Easy Hacks

It’s swimsuit season! The new Sunflower Swim Top and Busy Bee Swim Bottoms are the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. Dana is showing you below how to make a longer ruffle while Rachel is taking the Sunflower Top and making is shorter. Enjoy these cute easy hacks! 

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Longer Ruffle

This is a really easy hack if you want a little extra tummy coverage or just want the look of a longer ruffle. 

Cut out all your pattern pieces as usual but when you come to the ruffle you will cut it a little differently. First of all you will want to decide how wide you want your ruffle to be.

I measured the original piece which is 2 inches wide and I decided that I wanted to increase this to 5 inches wide.

I simply laid my perspex quilting ruler out over the pattern piece and used it to help cut out the original length and the increased width. 

Here is my finished ruffle.  Measuring 5 inches wide, in comparison to the original pattern piece.

Then just sew it together as usual. Easy peasy! 

Happy sewing! Love, Dana x

 

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Shorter Top

Forget the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-yellow-polka-dot bikini… bananas are so much more fun!

Here’s how you modify the pattern for Sunflower Swim Top if you’d like to sport a shorter length. You’ll be modifying the pattern pieces, but the actual construction of the top will follow the pattern instructions as written.

You’ll need the front and back pattern pieces and the shelf bra pattern piece.

With both the front and the back pieces, it is most important to preserve the curves at the bottom of the pieces. You’ll see how I did that in the pictures provided.

Cut the back piece into thirds as indicated in the photo below. You’ll be discarding the center piece.

Take the top and bottom thirds and line up the bottoms of the cut-out curve, where you see the green line in the pic. Tape together. I added a little snipe of paper, where the green circle is, to help visually with cutting my fabric.

And that completes your new back pattern piece.

Line up your front and back pattern pieces and mark the bottom of the back piece on your front piece. This will ensure that your front and back pieces line up when you’re constructing the top.

Place your shelf bra pattern piece on top of your front pattern piece and line up the “fold” edges. The left edge of the shelf bra piece should intersect the mark you made on the previous step.

Trace the bottom edge of the shelf bra and cut along this line to create your new front piece.

Once you have your pattern pieces ready, construct your top with the instructions provided. You can even work in a shelf bra at this length if you desire.

Isn’t sewing for yourself so much fun? I can’t wait to rock these bananas at the pool!

 

Rachel

Which one of these hacks will you try first? As always, post your creations in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group so we all get a chance to admire them. 

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